The American Journal of Interdisciplinary Innovations and Research IMPACT FACTOR – (ISSN 2642-7478) 2020: 5. 498 Published: November 14, 2020 | Pages: 33-38 Doi: https://doi.org/10.37547/tajiir/Volume02Issue11-07 OCLC - 1091588944

The Craftsmanship Of The Emirate Of At The Second Half Of The XIX Century - The Beginning Of The XX Century

Ochildiev Fayzulla Associate Professor, Candidate Of Historical Sciences, Department Of Archaeology Of

Uzbekistan, National University Of Uzbekistan

Journal Website: http://usajournalshub.c om/index,php/tajiir

Copyright: Original content from this work may be used under the terms of the creative commons attributes 4.0 licence.

ABSTRACT

This article describes the development of handicrafts in the second half of the XIX century and the beginning of the XX century in the . In the Emirate of Bukhara from ancient times developed weaving, embroidery, tanning, carpet weaving, pottery, blacksmithing, coppersmithing, carving, jewelry, painting and other crafts.

KEYWORDS

Weaving, embroidery, tanning, carpet weaving, pottery, blacksmithing, coppersmithing, carving, jewelry.

INTRODUCTION

The people of the Bukhara Emirate have long 1. The specialization of handicrafts was been engaged in handicrafts. Depending on strong in urban and densely populated the level of dealing with the craftsmanship, the villages. following can be specified in the emirate:

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2. In the upper and middle reaches of the separate about two pounds of cotton from the rivers, household handicrafts are well seeds during the week. In many households, established. during the winter, the whole family manually 3. In mountainous areas, pre-steppe and wide separates the cotton from the seeds and steppe areas, the population has prepares it for spinning. The spun yarn was developed forms of housing, that is spun, in some places the people cleaned and production for themselves. sold the cotton in the markets, and in some places it was spun into yarn and then sold in the From ancient times in the Emirate of Bukhara markets. there were favorable conditions for the development of several types of economy, in S. Mazov notes that at the end of the 19th particular, agriculture, animal husbandry and century, more than 100,000 handicrafts were handicrafts. The sources of raw materials woven in the Bukhara Emirate. O.A. Sukhareva needed for the development of handicrafts in noted that masters were engaged in weaving the emirate are provided by agriculture, in more than 12,000 workshops in and around livestock and mineral resources. In the Emirate Bukhara. There are 9 large weaving workshops of Bukhara from ancient times developed in Bukhara, each of which has 50-60 looms. weaving, embroidery, tanning, carpet weaving, One of the most common cotton fabrics in the pottery, blacksmithing, coppersmithing, Emirate of Bukhara is “karbos”, which is gray, carving, jewelry, painting and other crafts. and its production continues to this day. This THE MAIN RESULTS AND FINDINGS fabric is divided into several types depending on the thickness and color. It is warm in winter In Central Asia, including the Emirate of and cool in summer. This fabric was produced Bukhara, cotton, wool, silk and hemp yarns by both urban and rural residents not only for have long been woven at home and leather their own needs but also for sale. garments have been made at home. The raw materials needed for textiles, namely cotton, Olacha fabric has also been widely produced in silk, hemp, wool and leather, were grown the Emirate of Bukhara since ancient times. The mainly from the emirate itself. One of the best variety of Olacha is called zibak. The road necessary raw materials in textiles is cotton, is woven in Bukhara, Gissar, Sariosiyo, Denau, and in the early XIX-XX centuries in the Emirate Karshi, Shakhrisabz, Kitab and other cities. The of Bukhara, a local variety of cotton was production of textiles is a complex process. planted. Each weaver-craftsman specializes in the production of only one type of fabric. As soon as the cotton crop was harvested, Accordingly, they have different names: velvet- each household separated the cotton it velvet weavers, silk weavers - silkworms, futa needed from the seeds and prepared it for weavers - futabaf, chit weavers - chitgar, olacha weaving fabrics and other handicrafts. In weavers - olachabof and so on. Textiles home conditions , cotton was separated from produced in Central Asia, including the Emirate the seeds by spinning and preparing before of Bukhara, were of a commodity nature and making the fabric. One weaver was able to were also used in part as a medium of

The USA Journals Volume 02 Issue 11-2020 34 The American Journal of Interdisciplinary Innovations and Research IMPACT FACTOR – (ISSN 2642-7478) 2020: 5. 498 Published: November 14, 2020 | Pages: 33-38 Doi: https://doi.org/10.37547/tajiir/Volume02Issue11-07 OCLC - 1091588944

exchange in the Middle Ages. By the second engaged in handicrafts. The main occupation half of the nineteenth century, silkworm of the urban and rural population was the breeding and silk weaving in Central Asia had preparation of food and handicrafts for their reached its peak of development. During this daily needs. Crafts such as cotton, silk, leather period, silk fabrics and garments produced by processing, metal and ceramics, saddles, the local population not only competed with footwear, tanning, fabric dyeing and floral Russian factory goods, but were also popular printing, cast iron and iron processing, and in demand in European markets. The coppersmithing, jewelry and milling are well handicraft-based textile craft has developed developed. not only through ancient traditions, but also By the second half of the XIX-beginning of the through the skill of master craftsmen over XX century, Sherabad, Denau, Termez, Boysun, time. Yurchi and other cities became the centers of The fabrics are woven in craft associations and handicrafts of the emirate. In these cities all artisan homes. There are mainly two types of branches of handicrafts were well developed. textile production - for domestic needs and In the production of handicrafts, each city was custom-made products for the market at distinguished by its own products. For home. Merchants were mainly engaged in the example, the city of Bukhara was famous for its sale of finished textiles. By the second half of fabrics woven from cotton and other products, the 19th century, sewing in the emirate was gold embroidery and jewelry, and the city of much more developed, and clothes were sewn Denau was famous for its fabrics woven from for centuries with a certain taste, taking into silk. account age, gender, height. At the end of the 19th century, as a result of the In the Bukhara Emirate, embroidery was expansion and development of cotton fields developed on the basis of silk. It is one of the throughout the emirate, the demand for labor most developed handicrafts in Bukhara tools in agriculture increased. For this reason, emirate. Embroidery, which has been passed many blacksmithing and casting workshops down from generation to generation for were built in Sariosiya, Boysun, Denau and centuries, has demonstrated the creative other cities, and the population's demand for abilities of women, their dreams, hopes, love agricultural weapons was regularly met. for nature and beauty. The range of Gradually, several towns and villages became embroidery items includes: “suzana, zardevol, major centers for the production of joynomoz, bogjoma, oynakhalta, zardevor, handicrafts. naprach, sheets, palak, doppi” and others. In the cities of Boysun, Termez, Sherabad, Leather handicrafts are developed in the Sariosiya, Denau, Yurchi, a lot of cotton and silk emirate. Craftsmen have produced various fabrics are made. The quality of the woolen household products such as telpaks, boots , cloth woven from cotton was quite mature. makhsi , mokki, sandals, stockings, popush. Therefore, it was taken to , Residents of the Surkhandarya oasis, which is Tashkent, Bukhara, Afghanistan and India. part of the Bukhara Emirate, have also been

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Carpet weaving was of special importance in Blacksmiths, in turn, are divided into separate oasis handicrafts. The carpet was mostly specialties: blacksmiths-steelworkers, woven by women. In the field of carpet plumbers-household workers. The blacksmiths weaving, it is worth mentioning the cities of were engaged in making things from iron. They Termez and Sherabad. According to K. are divided into degreasers - cast irons, Khakimova, the carpets woven here are coppersmiths and others. popular not only in Central Asia, but also in At the beginning of the XIX-XX centuries, Russia and the whole of Western Europe, and handicrafts were developed in Karshi, are sold at high prices. Several types of carpets Shakhrisabz, Kitab, Guzar, Yakkabog and were exhibited in Paris and received high Chirakchi Bukhara emirates, which were praise. Quality carpets are mostly woven in among the largest trade cities. In the Sherabad principality. Separate well-woven Kashkadarya oasis, textiles, embroidery, carpet carpets were sold by traders to markets in weaving, pottery, coppersmithing, jewelry, Karshi, Karki, and Shakhrisabz, and even across blacksmithing, carpentry, tanning and other the Amu Darya to Afghanistan and India. types of handicrafts have been developed In addition to , Turkmen and Afghans since ancient times. were also famous for carpet weaving in the Among the fabrics made in the cities of the Sherabad principality. In addition to carpets, oasis, the production of gray was of particular Turkmens also weave koshma (a type of importance. The gray fabric is made of cotton chakman), and in autumn up to 500 koshma are yarn and is distinguished by its firmness and sold on Sundays. In Sariosiyo, Yurchi, and warmth. Gray fabric is widely produced in Denau, in addition to weaving cotton and wool, Shahrisabz and Karshi. According to Mahmud handicrafts such as woodworking, weaving, ibn Wali, a large quantity of sarbas-boz shoemaking, blacksmithing, coppersmithing, (unpainted white cloth) was made in jewelry, pottery, milling, dyeing, weaving, Shahrisabz. Recent sources also acknowledge knife-making, and others were well developed. that guzars specializing in making ice have In Sariosia, more blacksmithing of handicrafts survived in Shakhrisabz. Most of the is well developed. There were many foundry population made clothes from Boz, turbans, workshops, where craftsmen regularly tablecloths and so on. After the gray was provided the surrounding population with painted in different colors, a new fabric - chit tools and hammer teeth used in agriculture. was created by pressing a pattern on it. It is Crafts, one of the main occupations of the used to make women's clothing and bedding. population, is well developed in the Boysun Among the fabrics made in the cities of the principality. Small types of handicrafts such as oasis, the fabric called olacha was the most cotton and wool weaving, blacksmithing, popular. Olacha is a simple fabric woven from coppersmithing, jewelry, pottery, shoemaking, cotton and silk, and its varieties are woven such leather, confectionery, milling, hairdressing, as zibak, silky olacha, farangi. Farangi olacha is dyeing, carving, embroidery and embroidery woven mainly from yarn imported from Russia. are well developed here. Olacha is also produced in large quantities in

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Shakhrisabz, but the main center for making made in Karatag were very well made and olacha is Karshi. N.Khanykov notes that the tastefully made, and that every craft item majority of the population of Karshi is engaged attracted people. The principalities of Baljuon in the preparation of oats. In the early and Kulob were also famous for pottery, twentieth century, Karshi masters were cotton weaving, and partly silk production. The famous for making olacha. The masters who principality of Kulob is famous in the Bukhara made olacha lived in the city's Upper Zagza Emirate for the production of leather products. guzar. Gowns, coats and other outerwear are Sources say that there are many tanneries in mainly made of this fabric. Kulob. The principality of Qorategin is more adapted to the production of cotton woven In the cities of the oasis, especially in fabrics, utensils for household use by the Shakhrisabz and Karshi, the production of silk villagers, and various baskets, chakmon fabrics is also highly developed. In the cities of (koshma), sacks, and hot socks (chulok). the oasis lived ready-made clothes, especially General Staff Captain Vasilevv writes that the hats. Among the hats, Shahrisabz skullcaps quality of the shawls and socks produced in were the most popular. Karshi's Makhsumabad Qorategin is very durable and always keeps a neighborhood was the leader in weaving person warm from the cold. adras. According to L.Sobolev, during the reign of Amir Shahmurad, masters of adras weaving, Various types of handicrafts were developed in brought from Merv, greatly assisted the the Darvaz principality, where mainly iron artisans of Bukhara, Samarkand, Urgut and handicrafts were made, such as sickles, hoes, Karshi in weaving high-quality adras. In Eastern hammers, hammers, axes, plowshares, Bukhara, artisans were also engaged in horseshoes, knives, scissors and other items. handicrafts such as oil weaving, objuvoz, Demand for iron handicrafts is high in the milling, tannery, shoemaking, blacksmithing, Darvaz principality, which is sold in all regions coppersmithing, jewelry, as well as weaving, of the Bukhara Emirate. weaving wool and cotton fabrics, yarn, carpets, CONCLUSION baskets. Craftsmen's products are mostly made at home. The princes were distinguished In the early 19th century, handicrafts produced by their products. Darvoz specializes in the in the oasis partially met the needs of the production of tools used in agriculture, with population, but the standard of living of the production of Qabodiyon silk yarn, Kulob artisans was much lower. Local authorities and Baljuon leather products, Gissar silk fabric have forced artisans to make various payments and cold steel. Silk fabric is mainly produced in and obligations in addition to the taxes Dushanbe, Karatag, Sarasiyo and partly in imposed in the emirate. Also, the country has Qabodiyon principality. Karatag was famous not provided material and moral support to for the production of cold steel. The artisans, their achievements have not been handicrafts produced here were used by the encouraged. entire population of Central Asia. Matveev, a By the beginning of the twentieth century, as a member of the General Staff, said that the result of the influx of modern industrial knives, daggers, swords and household items

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