Gob More Syre and North Farr, Archaeological Survey

Catherine Dagg

for

Bowlts Barnhill Pluscarden By Elgin Moray IV30 8TZ

Gob More, Syre and North Strathnaver, Farr, Sutherland: Archaeological Survey

1.0 Background

The author was asked by Bowlts to evaluate the potential impact of forestry on areas of existing and proposed planting on the north west side of Loch Naver and north of Alltnaharra in the parish of Farr, Sutherland.

This evaluation covers primarily an area of proposed enclosure for regeneration and new planting SW of the cleared township of Grummore, a Scheduled Ancient Monument (sections 2-5) Section 6 deals with potential archaeological constraints to management and felling in six existing compartments of coniferous planting.

The Forests and Archaeology Guidelines, produced by the Forestry Authority, recommend that:

 No new planting should occur on archaeological sites. Normally an unplanted area should extend for at least 20m beyond the outermost recognised feature of the site  Where groups of archaeological features are close together they should be incorporated into a larger area of open space  Fence lines should not cross the archaeological sites  Archaeological sites should not be used as a source for stone or other materials

In addition, it is generally accepted that the best management practice for archaeological features is light grazing, to prevent the features from being obscured or damaged by vegetation growth within fenced areas even if the site is left clear of tree planting. Where the site is close to the perimeter fence, the fence line should be altered to exclude the site.

The proposed planting area is known to contain a number of recorded archaeological sites, including prehistoric hut circles and associated field systems and small farmsteads dating to the post-mediaeval period. It is adjacent to the nationally important cleared township of Grummore, a Scheduled Ancient Monument as representing the best-preserved of the several townships affected by the notorious clearances of 1819. The planting area does not extend into the Scheduled area, but there is potential for further archaeological sites, associated with the township but not located within its head dyke, to be within this planting area. There may also be a negative visual impact on the Scheduled site from the addition of modern elements and a significant alteration of the landscape setting.

2.0 Historical Background

Grummore, Gruamamor or Grubmore was one of the several townships, in all 236 families, removed from west Strathnaver in May of 1819. The east side had already been cleared in 1814 and had resulted in Patrick Sellar being brought to court for his brutal methods, but being found not guilty.

In 1815 Grummore was still in the possession of ‘sundry small tenants’ although Muidale to the west had already been let to a Captain Mackay to run cattle and sheep, while Syre to the west, also still populated, was described as ‘only calculated for sheep, people can make no advance here.

The account of the 1819 clearances tells how the clearing and burning of houses began at Grummore, (sixteen houses) the first settlement to be reached by the clearing officers approaching from Altnaharra. No mention is made of the small farmsteads to the west, but if not already abandoned they would certainly have been cleared on this occasion.

The area was divided into sheep farms, with Grummore, together with Syre, becoming part of the farm of Langwell, leased by Patrick Sellar himself.

Blaeu’s map of Strathnaver indicates woodland west of ‘Groubmoir’ and similar woods are indicated around the township on Roy’s map of the 1750s. The impact of sheep farming on native woodland appears to be the opposite of what is frequently assumed. The removal of small tenants and their damaging practices of taking wood or barking trees appears to have allowed considerable regeneration. Malcolm Bangor Jones (2002) writes:

Each (sheep) farmer was bound not “to injure or damage any tree or trees, or any of the natural woods growing thereon or to suffer the same to be so damaged or Cut down by any of his Family, servants or Cattle; and to use his best endeavour, to protect, and increase the growth of the said natural woods”. In 1831 it was also laid down that “for every tree so cut or damaged it shall be optional in the Proprietors to charge him [the tenant] £5 Stg of additional Rent.”

In 1842 the Strathnaver woods were to be given a thinning. Patrick Sellar, sheepfarmer extraordinaire, advised that “The thinning is Chiefly wanted at Grubmore – where an axe has never yet fallen, & the Birch is quite Choked with Willow & hazel – Would you be so good as to begin there? But, if you Could postpone it to Spring, when the Sap is rising in the trees, your money will go twice the length; and, as the Braxy Season will then be past, & no Grass to Soil, it will be a better Job for all parties. I have Spent nearly £250 in Similar work at Acharn But had I taken October to it, £400 would not have gone over the Same ground I assure you”.

3.0 Methodology

A desk-based evaluation making use of all readily available data and archive sources was followed by a rapid walk-over survey, carried out on 24.11.11 in wet and windy conditions, which led to a poor photographic record

4.0 Gazetteer of Sites

Sites were recorded using hand-held GPS accurate to +/-3m. The gazetteer runs from West to East

1. Gob Mor Hut circle at NC 58890 35352 (Photos 1, 2) Apparently not previously recorded, but undoubtedly the hut circle associated with the field system to the north (site 2) A low and indistinct circle, marked by overgrown banks, on the terrace immediately above the road

2. Gob Mor, Field system at NC 58894 35460 (Photo 3) Her ref. MHG12328 recorded at NC 590 354 The HER records for this site states: Centred on NC 590 354 are a number of stony heaps on an otherwise stone-free, heather- clad slope. They appear typical of the field clearance heaps usually found in association with hut circles. Further scattered mounds lie to the W. This survey located an area of both stone heaps and linear clearance banks concentrated on broad rocky knoll and extending south towards the hut circle (site 1) The mounds and banks cover an area measuring 100m E-W and 70m N-S

3. Stone Pile at NC 59124 35501 (Photo 5) At least one stone field clearance piles, with other more indistinct mounds and banks in the vicinity.

4. Gob Mor, Farmstead at NC 592 354 (Photos 6-8) HER ref. MHG10243 The HER records for this site states: Close group of three building footings, varying from 8m by 4m to 15m by 4m, with adjoining enclosure in ground marked by traces of strip cultivation; there are remains of an enclosing bank. Abandoned 18th/19th century. A farmstead comprising two unroofed buildings, two enclosures and a ring-dyke is depicted on the 1st edition of the OS 6-inch map (Sutherland 1878, sheet liii). One unroofed building, one enclosure of three compartments and a ring-dyke are shown on the current edition of the OS 1:10,560 map (1963). This site is as recorded: an enclosing dyke, now truncated to the south by the road and plantation, around an area of improved ground within which is a cluster of buildings and attached rectangular enclosures. There are no associated features outwith the enclosing dyke.

5. Gob Mor, Hut circle, field system at NC 59586 35733 (Photo 9) HER ref. MHG12329 recorded at NC 5958 3575 The HER records for this site states: At NC 5958 3575 on a low spur is a single hut circle, covered with bracken and heather. It is set into a gentle SE-facing slope and measures 12.0m in diameter within a stone wall spread to 2.0m wide and 0.4m average height; the wall widens to 3.0m on either side of a simple entrance in the SE arc. On the hillslope to the NW of the hut is a field system, comprising some traces of heather- covered walling, but stone clearance heaps predominate, at least 15.0m apart but generally more sporadic. Outlying to the N and E are a number of mounds, some of which are stone clearance, but others appear to be a result of localised peat accumulation. This survey located what must be the same hut circle, approximately 20m north of the telegraph pole. The area is thickly covered with vegetation and a field system was not noted but is presumed to be east of the break of slope at a similar height and situation to sites 2 and 3

6. Gob Mor, Hut Circle (possible) at NC 598 359 HER ref. MHG12326 The HER records for this site states: (Centred NC 598 359) On the W side of Loch Naver, almost opposite Dun Creagach, and just over 1/2 mile S of Grummore, there are 'two large earth-covered circles, and a great many tumuli' close to the road and on its W side. (J M Joass 1865 ) These circles were not found during thorough perambulation of the area described. There is a single hut circle in the approximate area indicated by Joass (see NC53NE 7) but no other 'circles' can be identified. No possible hut circle was located at this location which is within an approximately square enclosure bounded by low, tumbled rubble dykes and densely colonised by bracken

7. Reidhachasteil township, dyke, field system centred on 5983 3606. (Photos 10-13) Her refs. MHG9304 (township) MHG43407 (dyke)MHG43409( Field system ) The HER record for this site states: Reidhachaisteil (NAT) OS 6" map, Sutherland, 1st ed., (1878). Reidh a' Chaisteil or Reidhachaisteil applies to a few ruins of an old clachan situated on the northern shore of Loch Naver. Name Book 1878 An area of depopulation consisting of several building foundations, bank and enclosures. The buildings vary in size from some 4m by 3m to approximately 15m by 4m, the walls standing to a maximum height of about 1.0m. Visited by OS (WDJ) 4 May 1961 Reidhachaisteil, a crofting township abandoned in C18th/19th. There are footings of 5 buildings, varying from 11m by 4m to 17m by 4m, ruins of several enclosures and remains of field walls and banks; in one of fields a regular series of cultivation strips, 11m wide, is discernible. Outfield in E are several ruinous enclosures and footings of one or two bothy-type structures. Visited by OS (JM) 24 June 1980 A township comprising five unroofed buildings, a ring-dyke and six outlying enclosures is depicted on the 1st edition of the OS 6-inch map (Sutherland 1878, sheet liv). Nine unroofed buildings, a ring-dyke and six enclosures are shown on the current edition of the OS 1:10,560 map (1963). The large, irregular-shaped area enclosed by a turf and rubble dyke contains only one building, but also other structures, field clearance and boundaries. Outside this enclosure to the west are four buildings and a later circular sheep shelter, while to the east are possible structures and enclosures, including one sub-square enclosure now cut by the road

8. Enclosure at NC 59959 36290 (Photo 14) A sub-square enclosure on the south-facing slope east of the township remains, and visible as low rubble walling in an area of bracken.

9. Enclosures at NC 60186 36231, NC 60239 36296, NC 60260 36369 (Photos 15, 16) Three small rubble enclosures occupying terraces on the steep slope west of the present forestry plantation, all visible as low rubble walling. The two west enclosures are recorded on the 1st edition OS map. Although outside the Scheduled area of Grummore, these are probably outliers of that township.

10. Field system centred on NC 60142 36797 (Photo 17) A group of at least seven low mounds occupy a gentle slope facing SE and have the appearance of typical prehistoric field clearance, although much higher and more exposed than similar sites.

11. Field system centred on NC 60244 36538 (Photo 18) A group of at least ten low mounds with the appearance of typical prehistoric field clearance occupy the gentle heather-covered slope above the present foresty plantation. This area continues east and can be clearly seen north of the township features of Grummore.

12. Marker Stone at NC 60313 36551 (Photo 19-21) A single stone slab, the visible part measuring 1.1m in height, 160mm wide and 80mm thick is set into the north side of a low mound which may be field clearance. Three large packing stones are visible. The function of this stone is unknown. It is unlikely to be prehistoric and is probably some form of marker associated with the township of Grummore.

13. Grummore township, centred on NC60503640 HER Ref. MHG12636 SAM ref. 2209 This well-recorded site, a Scheduled Ancient Monument, lies to the east of the proposed planting area. The Scheduled area lies partly within the present coniferous plantation, which was presumably planted before the site was scheduled. This will have the effect of screening new planting from the township, and also sets a precedent for woodland planting within view of the monument. There is, however, no reason to consider woodland per se as having a negative visual impact. Before the introduction of sheep, that is at the time of occupation of the township, Strathnaver was probably lightly wooded. The fence would be the only intrusive modern element, but this would join the road and overhead wires; all of these would only have a minimal impact on the experience of the site.

5.0 Discussion

Sites 10 and 13 are not located within the proposed planting area as defined at the time of survey. Subsequent to the survey, it was agreed that the east boundary of the planting area should be shifted west to exclude sites 11 and 12. Therefore only sites 1-9 will be affected by the planting scheme.

All of the sites within the planting area are located on the relatively low-lying, gently sloping terrace above the loch shore. Any minor archaeological features not noted during this survey are therefore likely to also be located along this corridor, which extends generally no more than150m back from the road, but 280m at site 7. West of site 1, extensive areas of peat cuttings were noted, but there is no evidence for post-mediaeval settlement between site 4 and Alltnaharra, or for prehistoric settlement between site 1 and a group of hut circles (MHG13274, MHG12324, MHG12327) and associated field system (MHG40505) and burnt mound (MHG12325) all of which are west of the boundary of proposed planting.

Some of the sites are either immediately adjacent to the road or are already cut by the road, notably sites 4, 7 and 9. The proposed fence line, set back from the road by a few metres, will further truncate site 4, features of site 7, and may run through site 1.

The archaeological record would be best protected by exclusion of the sites from the planting area, with the fence line running parallel to the road but set approximately 150m back. This would have the advantage of allowing grazing of the archaeological features, which is generally the best management, and allowing free access from the road for visitors. However, this would take out a large area of proposed planting and may render the scheme unviable. The alternative, to include the sites within the scheme, will require a long-term management policy to prevent regeneration over the archaeological features, with new planting confined to carefully designed clusters on archaeologically neutral ground along the terrace. The existing overhead power line which runs approximately parallel to the road will also require a corridor of open ground, which will have the advantage of providing a link between sites and enable access.

Recommendations for planting exclusion areas follow the Forests and Archaeology guidelines, with planting being kept back a minimum of 20m from the edge of each site. Sites which are contemporary, such as 1 and 2, and 6, 7 and 8, should be linked by open ground.

It is recommended that public access be enabled and encouraged through the strategic placing of gates and stiles. While not part of the Strathnaver Trail, a Highland Council initiative which promotes and interprets the archaeology and historical sites of the area, the archaeological sites within this planting scheme, particularly site 7, may attract public interest.

6.0 Existing Forestry Compartments

The following compartments lie within the present management review:

1. NC 575 370, east of the A897 Tongue road north of Alltnaharra, 60.51ha. There are no recorded archaeological sites in this compartment, and the potential for the existence of unrecorded features is low. 2. NC 587 353, south of the B873, between the road and the lochside, 20.61ha. One recorded site is located within this planted area: MHG 10242 and MHG41500, bothy and area of former cultivation. The condition of this feature is not recorded and it may be severely damaged by ploughing and planting. A pre-felling survey should locate and evaluate this and the southern part of site 4 which also lies within this forestry compartment. 3. NC 604 364, north of the B873, immediately west of and partially overlying the township of Grummore, 5.83ha. As this compartment includes a part of the Scheduled area, any work, including felling, will require Scheduled Monument Consent from Historic . A programme of work will also have to be approved by Historic Scotland. This is likely to include a pre-felling archaeological survey to mark all features, and a felling methodology to minimise damage. The restoration of open ground will, however be beneficial both to the site and to visitors. 4. NC 616 372, north of the B873, 42.38ha. While this compartment is east of the Scheduled area of Grummore township, and contains no archaeological features recorded on the HER, it undoubtedly contains unrecorded features associated with the township, notably two field boundaries, indicated on modern mapping. It is recommended that a pre-felling survey locate and mark these features 5. NC 648 388, north of the B873, 20.26ha. Two hut circles and an adjacent, but later, enclosure. are located within this compartment, in the SW corner: MHG12663 at NC 644 386. They are described as being severely mutilated by ploughing and planting but should be located and marked during a pre-felling survey to prevent further damage 6. NC 662 388, north of the B873, 22.81ha. Two hut circles, both Scheduled Ancient Monuments, are located within this compartment: a. SAM ref. 2451, HER ref. MHG12542 at NC 6599 3865 b. SAM ref. 2452, HER ref. MHG12542 at NC 6594 3849 Felling in the area of these sites will require Scheduled Monument Consent from Historic Scotland, and approval of a methodology to minimise damage to the sites and associated features. A pre-felling survey which locates and marks features will be required. Subsequent to felling, the Scheduled areas will require to be left as open ground.

Catherine Dagg, BA, AIfA 2, Ruigh’Riabhach Scoraig Peninsula Dundonnell Wester Ross IV23 2RE Tel: 01854 633 337 e-mail [email protected] 16.1.12

Appendix: Photographic Archive (digital)

Photo no. Site No. Description Viewpoint 1 1 Hut circle, poorly visible on near horizon in front of trees From N 2 1 Hut circle, low banks with heather and bracken in front of From N trees (road is hidden). Ranging pole is in centre. 3 2 Field system: typical stone pile overgrown with moss and From SE bracken 4 3 Loose stone pile colonised by heather, part of possible From ENE field system 5 4 Farmstead, footings of building within large enclosure of From SW improved ground: SE corner of E-W aligned house 6 4 Farmstead: west end of E-W aligned house within large From S enclosure 7 4 Farmstead: E-W aligned house footings From W 8 4 Farmstead enclosing dyke on east side, running towards From NW loch then turning right just before near horizon 9 5 Hut circle: view from hut circle, with edge in foreground, From NW towards pole to indicate location 10 6 Reidhachasteil township, view out from central building From NE to other buildings scattered on west side of large enclosure 11 6 Reidhachasteil: long building west of large enclosure, From SE aligned NW-SE 12 6 Reidhachasteil: view over buildings scattered west of From NW large enclosure. Long building in foreground, sheep shelter directly behind 13 6 Reidhachasteil: part of large enclosure bounded by rubble From NE dyke, showing contrast in vegetation. Line running up slope to the right is eroded deer path 14 7 Square enclosure of rubble walling on slope east of From SW township 15 8 Square enclosure west of plantation From E 16 8 Square enclosure west of plantation From S 17 9 Field system: three low mounds of prehistoric field From W clearance 18 10 Field system: area of low mounds extending east from From W proposed planting area to above Grummore township and SAM (building on right) Mounds are on heather covered slope on left 19 11 Marker stone From S 20 11 Marker stone From E 21 11 Marker stone with Grummore township and SAM behind. From W Note packing stones and field clearance mound to right of stone, other low mounds behind.