Waquoit Bay: Prehistory, History, and Natural History by Nancy Church

20 Waquoit Bay: Prehistory, History, and Natural History by Nancy Church Ellen Little and her brother Edward fshing from the beach on Washburn Island in the 1890s. Photo possibly by Edith Little. Courtesy D. W. Bourne. (Reprinted from Te Book of Falmouth.) Anniversaries are milestones and cause for celebration Research Reserve System. WBNERR uses the local and refection. 2013 marks the 25th Anniversary of estuary system as a living laboratory to conduct the creation of the Waquoit Bay National Estuarine and support research and to educate community Research Reserve (WBNERR), an organization members and decision makers across the region. Im- which manages almost 3,000 acres of land and water provements to the headquarters are underway now. in the towns of Mashpee and Falmouth. Work to Tis is an ideal time to revisit the long history of hu- establish the Reserve frst began in 1974 yet it wasn’t man activity around the Bay and the Reserve’s role in until 1988 that the deal was complete and Waquoit protecting coastal resources for future generations. Bay Reserve became part of the National Estuarine Te Reserve is a state and federal partnership between 20 21 the Massachusetts Department of Conservation and across the Cape with increased settlement over time, Recreation (DCR) and the National Oceanic and especially during the Woodland period 1500 to Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). It consists of 1,100 years ago when Native people lived in small the Headquarters and Visitor Center on the former villages or seasonal camps near abundant fresh and Sargent/Swift Estate, the 300 acre Washburn Island, salt water resources. Tey hunted, fshed and col- the 462 acre South Cape Beach State Park, 453 acres lected shellfsh from the bay, activities that Wam- of land along the Quashnet River, 19 acres on the panoagvTribe members and others continue to this Childs River and 35 acres at Abigail Brook in Mash- day. Recently, at the Reserve’s request, a local tribe pee. An 11 acre parcel on Caleb’s Pond near the head member constructed a traditional wetu or wigwam of the bay was added several years ago, and a newly overlooking the bay outside the Reserve Visitor acquired wetland site bordering Eel River will soon Center, serving as a reminder of the long standing be added to Reserve maps. In addition, there are 135 relationship that the Wampanoag community has acres of privately owned salt marsh within Reserve had with this estuary. Land use changes occurred rapidly with European During the 1950s, amateur archeologists settlement which began in Falmouth in 1660. Forests collected Wampanoag artifacts from later were cleared as farms and small hunting and fshing communities took shape. Concerned with the situ- time periods, including stone tools, a ation, Reverend Richard Bourne helped to secure pestle and a pendant from areas bordering the Mashpee land grant for the Wampanoag people, the bay and Washburn Island. which at the time included the entire Quashnet River valley to Waquoit Bay. Small industries grew in the Waquoit area and by the late 1700s there were eight separate mills in the village, several of which utilized boundaries that are protected. Much of this land nearby water power. Te increased commercial value adjoins other conservation acreage, greatly increasing of the waterway led to the Moonakis section of the its value as wildlife habitat and for attenuating the river being incorporated into the Town of Falmouth efects of extensive development in nearby coastal in 1775, despite the Mashpee land grant. areas. Te Reserve also provides public access for recreation including hiking, birding, fshing, hunt- In 1832, a new grist mill and dam were built where ing, boating, and camping. today Martin Road crosses the river and the trailhead begins. Tis blocked the passage of the fsh migrating Archeological evidence suggests that sites along the between the salt and freshwater to feed or spawn. Quashnet and Childs river were used as far back as Tons of local herring were loaded onto sloops to be 8,000-6,000 years ago. During the 1950s, amateur used as bait on the rich ofshore fshing grounds. archeologists collected Wampanoag artifacts from Overharvesting and alterations to the river’s natural later time periods, including stone tools, a pestle and fow impacted once healthy populations of herring, a pendant from areas bordering the bay and Wash- sea run brook trout, and eels, important species for burn Island. Over the years, shell middens and a Na- many local residents. tive woman’s burial site have emerged from eroding shorelines. Tese items refect what has been found 22 Despite these obvious negative impacts to the fsh- carried passengers and freight to and from New ery, reports of abundant natural resources in the Bedford and took mail, lumber and other goods Mashpee, Childs and Quashnet rivers and the sur- to Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard. In 1964, Te rounding woodlands attracted recreational hunters Falmouth Enterprise reported a right–of-way dispute and fshermen, including President Grover Cleveland between locals over access to the bay where Captain and noted statesman, Daniel Webster of Marshfeld. Peter Lewis’s wharf had been located. Several people were concerned that “weekend rif raf” and less Troughout the 1800s many villagers continued desirable elements would invade their quiet sum- to live of the land, hunting deer and ducks, plant- mer colony. Simeon Collins thought things should ing gardens, and selling wood. Detailed notes tell stay the same since there’s “very little beach and the ofnumerous shorebirds shot from boats and shore, water’s nothing but seaweed.” Today, similar conficts including rare species like piping plovers and terns continue along the coastline as development and pri- that are protected by state and federal laws today. Salt vate property rights encounter the growing demand hay was harvested from the marsh to feed livestock for public access to coastal resources. In 1964, Te Falmouth Enterprise reported a right–of-way dispute between locals over access to the bay where Captain Peter Lewis’s wharf had been located. Several people were concerned that “weekend rif raf” and less desirable elements would invade their quiet summer colony. Today, similar conficts continue along the coastline as development and private property rights encounter the growing demand for public access to coastal resources. and eel grass was used to fertilize garden plots. In Train service to Falmouth in the 1870s led the Cape the late 1800s and early 1900s a booming cranberry to become a favorite vacation destination, thereby industry claimed much of the land along the Childs, fueling this demand for public access. Large wa- Quashnet and Moonakis rivers. Cranberry farming terfront hotels hosted scores of visitors; some kept altered the course of the rivers, slowed and warmed their catboats secure in the Eel River ready to sail the water, and further blocked the passage of anad- into Waquoit Bay. Wealthy families began building romous fshes. Many years later, the introduction summer houses along the shore, including the Vic- of fertilizers and pesticides enhanced the crops but torian shingle style mansion that now serves as the further damaged the ecology of these fresh water Waquoit Bay Reserve Headquarters and Visitor Cen- streams. ter. Sitting on a 30-foot bluf overlooking the bay, the 16 room house was built by Ignatius Sargent during For 30 years packet ships loaded up at Peter Lewis’s the late 1880s to serve as a summer cottage for a wharf in the north east corner of Waquoit Bay. Tey wealthy family. In 1900, Dana and Alice Munro and 22 23 their friends Dr. and Mrs. Alexander Abbott rented Rutherford mysteriously disappeared sometime after the house for the season while they built their own 1920 and the estate went into receivership in 1928. modest cottages on the east side of the bay. Alice In 1929 it was sold to Charles L. Swift, a cranberry Munro Haagensen was born in the house that farmer who also dealt in real estate and whose fam- summer and documented her memories in a taped ily owned many acres of bogs in the area. After the interview at the Reserve. She recalled her mother hurricane of 1938 heavily damaged the mansion, saying there were only two other houses on the bay the Swifts began using the front gatehouse, once the at the time. Relatives of both these families still live caretaker’s quarters, as their residence. Failing health on the bay. Over the years several people owned the and fnancial losses prevented the restoration of the 23 acre estate, including Norman Rutherford whose main house which sat empty for almost 50 years. name is on the deed from 1914 to 1929. Tis colorful Charles died in 1966, his second wife Mamie died character was known for cruising around town in his in 1974, passing ownership to her daughter, Ethel Franklin touring car and bringing electricity to the Trapp. In 1982 Ethel entered into an agreement estate in 1915. Around 1920, he built the boathouse with developers for both Washburn Island and the with space for entertaining upstairs that included a Swift Estate. large granite freplace. He was also responsible for the stone walled entryway on Route 28 and most likely Washburn Island added the garages to the carriage house for his three automobiles. An early hand-drawn map of Washburn Island from 1853 shows three structures: a barn and house on the northern end and a house on the west side owned by Sylvester Bourne. Scattered remnants of their foundations were found during a 1983 archaeologi- Bridge to Washburn Island from what is now Seacoast Shores, East Falmouth. Courtesy Falmouth Historical Society.

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