The Inside: Pg. 14 NIKE PROFIT DROPS/3 LAMONICA TO EXIT KORS/3 Women of LeisureWWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • March 20, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 57 $2.00 List Boy Meets Girl — Masculine-feminine tailoring returned to the runways for fall. And some of the best of it came from Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, whose terrific Viktor & Rolf collection was full of skillful riffs on their favorite men’s styles, among them cool , big-collared and . The presentation was also inventive, with the designers’ muse, Tilda Swinton, appearing on the catwalk and the other models done up to resemble her. Here, a Tilda lookalike wears a bold-collared and pants. For more on the haberdashery trend, see pages 6 and 7.

From Red Carpet Roll-up To Economic Anxieties, Industry Braces for War olding its breath. As the nation Hrolled toward war in Iraq, and retail executives were waiting on Wednesday to see the impact of a conflict everyone hopes will be a short one. The situation already has shaken one of the fashion industry’s biggest events: the Oscars. As reported, the Academy of Motion Pictures Arts and Sciences has canceled the traditional red-carpet parade of stars — which some consider the world’s most-watched fashion show — in favor of a low-key event focused on the awards rather than the and diamonds. Party organizers, including See Industry, Page16 PHOTO BY PHOTO GIOVANNI BY GIANNONI 2 WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL FASHION: The notion of using men’s haberdasherylooks for women resurfaces 6 every few years, as it did for fall. Here are some of the newest interpretations. ™ As the nation rolled toward war, retail and fashion executives waited to see A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 1 what the impact might be of a conflict everyone hopes is a short one.

HURSDAY, MARCHHURSDAY, 20, 2003 on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated A 12 percent rise in U.S. apparel revenues wasn't sufficient to prevent Nike T

, Inc. from sustaining a 1.3 percent decrease in its third-quarter net income.

D 3

W SPRING INTO ACTION Ross Stores said higher sales and better buying opportunities paved the W Femininity, retro influences and sports styles define the season 9 way for double-digit increases in its fourth-quarter and yearend profits. The WWDList: The 15 most popular leisure activities among women over “Do I really need anything new for spring?” “There’s a retro lady look going on,” affirms 14 the past 12 months — and shopping is conspicuously missing. questions Anne, a thirty-something investment Talbot’s Thompson. ”There is a distinct nod to the EYE: Artist Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster’s collaborative effort…The start banker, as she makes her way between appoint- 1950s. Think Sabrina or An Affair to Remember.” 20 of summer cocktails…Where in the world is author Stuart David? ments. “I already have so many Other colors to remember Classified Advertisements ...... 18-19 of the same things, the this spring include clean basics economy could be a lot better, like white, camel and black. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is [email protected], using the individual's name. and time is a luxury.” “Neutrals are not going any- While Anne may be a high where soon,” emphasizes SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. powered and busy New York Thompson. She also adds All others U.S., daily one year $195. /Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information: (800) 289-0273; executive, her sentiments are “optimistic” colors like blue outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; group subscription information (856) 786-0963. largely shared by women of all and yellow to her hit parade Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional backgrounds and walks of life of seasonal hues. With the issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. who are keeping a careful eye emphasis on utilitarian fashion, a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., on both their bank balances green, in pale to more olive a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, and personal time clocks in shades, is also a budding pres- including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be these challenging times. ence. “There’s a good green expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 “As long as innovation is story going on this spring,” Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. “The are great this season Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 there, people will shop,” asserts relates Cohen. GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 and the accent is on the details.” Printed in the U.S.A. Candace Corlett, principal Color is also particularly All signed articles published in the represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of of WSL Strategic Retail, a Lynn Cohen omnipresent in women’s WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. –Runway Boutique marketing and retail consul- sportswear this season. Credit For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com tancy based in New York. And she adds a bit of the attention to figure enhancing athletic wear or blue-sky information for consumers looking to a significant case of cabin fever after a long, loosen their purse strings and step out in fashion hard winter, but spring styles for 2003 are also in coming months, “There is break-out news decidedly sporty chic. In Brief in styles this season.” “There’s this sense of play in fashion right ● There most certainly is newness for spring, agree now,” Thompson elaborates. “Women want to feel DUPONT’S NORTHERN DEAL: DuPont on Wednesday said it offered to pay $1.4 billion to acquire the outstanding shares of the fashion experts. And with the vernal equinox fresh and alive.” DuPont Canada, of which it already owns 76 percent. It’s one of arriving on March 20, the days growing slightly Notes Easley, “Spring is a great time for fashion the last housekeeping steps Wilmington, Del.-based DuPont has longer, and fashion palates salivating for new flavor, that performs.” She points to utilitarian style pants to do to prepare for the spinoff or sale of DuPont Textiles & it’s time to start spring shopping and feast on the and ensembles that take the wearer through several Interiors, which the company has said it aims to complete by the latest and greatest. activities, both indoor and outdoor, athletic and end of the year. DTI’s U.S. operations already operate as a The most recent data from the Cotton Incorporated spectator, within the same day. stand-alone unit within the company. DuPont has said it is con- ™ sidering a number of ways to spin off DTI, including an initial Lifestyle Monitor indicates that women may be The desire for of dressing ties in with recent public offering if market conditions permit. However, as report- ready to get out there and enhance their wardrobes data from the Monitor. Sixty percent of female con- ed, the company is also said to be in talks with other private in- for spring. Sixty-seven percent of women in 2002 sumers said they would rather wear one comfort- vestors, including Koch Industries, which owns KoSa — indicated that they didn’t believe that they had too able outfit all day than change clothes to fit dif- DuPont’s former polyester operation. many clothes and could shop for more; this repre- ferent activities. ● sents an increase of 5.2 points over the prior year. But the sports influence isn’t all down home VIYELLA SOLD — AGAIN: Viyella, the traditional U.K. cloth- ing that targets women over 50, has been sold to the There was also a significant increase in females Americana this season, says Easley. “There’s a sports knitwear company Harris Watson Holdings for an having time to shop for clothes; 70% of respon- meets Far East look going on,” she allows, pointing undisclosed sum, confirming reports in these pages. A spokes- dents told the Monitor that they made time in their to important items currently selling at Kirna woman for Harris Watson confirmed the sale, but declined fur- schedules for clothes shopping in 2002, up from Zabete, such as the baseball kimono. “It’s a very ther comment. As reported, Richard Thompson, of Riverhawk 66% in 2001. chic but exaggerated silhouette.” Runway Bou- Investments, bought the Viyella and Jaeger from “The fashions are great this season,” affirms tique’s Cohen adds, “There’s the Asia Major influ- PLC in January with an eye to flipping them. Earlier this month, he sold Jaeger to the textile entrepreneur Harold Tillman, Lynn Cohen, owner of Runway Boutique in the ence; satins and kimonos are important and they owner of Baird Menswear Brands. Thompson could not be Flatiron District of Manhattan, “and the accent can be worn alone or over jeans.” reached for comment on Wednesday. is on the details.”Words and themes that oneFashion experts agree that the stand-out will hear over and over silhouette of the season is ● STEPPING OUT WITH VANDERBILT: The Amerex Group has again for spring are I have too many clothes, the cargo. Cohen is wrapped up a licensing deal with Jones Apparel Group to pro- I don’t need to shop for more romantic, feminine, selling a variety of cargo duce a line of outerwear and rainwear under the Gloria 01Q4 02Q4 +/- pts. Vanderbilt and GLO label. Howard Grossman, president of sporty, colorful, utili- pants and at Amerex’s women’s division, is heading up the new venture. The tarian and nostalgic. Agree 37% 32% -4.7 pts. Runway, detailed with Disagree 62% 67% 5.2 pts. license had been held by Fleet Street, but was ended last May. First and foremost everything from ruching The 20-piece collection of peacoats, anoraks, down jackets and think pink, say those in to zippers, and in a walking coats is now being shown at the Amerex showroom at 512 the know. “Pink is my favorite color. It’s feminine, variety of fabrications from cotton stretch to Seventh Avenue in New York. Wholesale prices range from $30 to it’s springtime, it’s flattering and puts a little color silk. “The look is wearable but sexy,” she says. $60. Grossman declined to give a projected volume, but said the Vanderbilt lines are expected to be carried by at least 20 depart- in your cheeks,” enthuses Sarah Easley, co-owner With the sheer variety of fashion available this ment, specialty and mass market stores this fall. Amerex also of downtown New York shopping destination, season, from super basic to ultra feminine to sporty produces the Jones New York outerwear line under license. Kirna Zabete. chic, there’s bound to be something for everyone And it’s got life as a palette all its own or as part of and then some. an ensemble. “People are mixing pink in with all So on your mark, get ready, shop! WWDStock Market Index for March 19 their other colors this spring,” adds Runway’s Composite: 101.53 Broadline Stores: 102.73 Softline Stores: 97.05 Cohen. “The pinks are really important this This story is one in a series of articles based on findings spring,” agrees Betsey Thompson, spokesperson for from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ women’s fashion retailer, Talbot’s. tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, The presence of pink is just one way that the fem- each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the 1.21 1.40 0.66 inine influence is being expressed this season. There American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes are also breezy and romantic silhouettes, like full and Textiles: 96.70 and behavior regarding , Vendors: 100.65 flouncy skirts, according to Kirna Zabete’s Easley. Index base of 100 is “Think back to the Fifties and Julianne Moore in appearance, fashion, fiber selection and keyed to closing prices many other timely, relevant subjects. Far from Heaven. It’s a fresh silhouette for spring.” ® of Dec. 31, 2002. 0.79 0.14 3 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2003 — Joanna Ramey Joanna — The leveling off is in good part Shares of Nike closed on and apparel orders At the end of the quarter, For the nine months, income Stroll said in a statement “When we became partners had worked with Donna Ryba Philip Knight a bottoming in its U.S. business.” attributable to a tug-of-war going Locker on between Nike and Foot over the former’s higher-priced athletic footwear which has re- sulted in lower orders to Nike. at Wednesday $50.08, up $1.09, in trading on the New Stock York Exchange. scheduled for delivery between March and July 2003 grew 5.8 percent to $4.2 billion versus last year. global inventories totaled $1.5 billion, up 6 percent from a year ago. Cash and short-term invest- ments were $443 million versus $350 million last year. was cut in half, to $227.8 million, or 85 cents a diluted share, from $454.9 million, or $1.67, a year ago. added 6.9 Sales, percent, however, crossing the finish line at $7.71 bil- lion from $7.21 billion in the first nine months of last year. that Ryba had been working LLC without with Michael Kors an official title since the acqui- sition of the firm by Sports- Ltd. in January. wear Holdings with Michael, we had always intended for the current man- agement team to stay in place for an interim period,” he said. Karan for 10 years, most recent- ly as president of retail, a posi- tion she held until December 2001. Sokol founded her con- sulting business following her departure from the Leiber Group, where she held the title of president and ceo, and had earlier served as president of Donna Karan Collection and as president of women’s collection at Calvin Klein before that. The bill passed on a 315-113 vote. While Senate Republicans, like their clared Rep. Jerrold Nadler (D., N.Y.), who led House opposition while his party was divided on the issue. House colleagues, are big backers of bankruptcy reform, as are a contingent of Democrats, its fate in the chamber is un- certain. Democratic opponents, includ- ing Sen. Edward Kennedy (Mass.) have vowed to which filibuster, might be diffi- cult to end, given the narrow GOP major- ity in the chamber. The changes were all effec- Idol would not comment on In the latest quarter, U.S. ap- In Europe, apparel sales grew Asia Pacific saw the strongest In the Americas, apparel and Nike also said that revenues Jeffrey Edelman, equity ana- tive Wednesday, a spokeswoman tive Wednesday, for Kors said, adding that a new chief executive officer would be named She shortly. would not comment on any candidates, but market sources said Stroll and Chou have approached John Idol, ceo of Kasper ASL, who has worked with both Ryba and Sokol during his earlier tenure as ceo of Donna Karan. the report, but said his relation- ship with Stroll and Chou is strictly that of a business ac- quaintance and that his imme- diate intentions remain to di- rect Kasper and its Anne Klein division through its bankruptcy proceedings. He is also among the parties looking to make an acquisition of the Kasper com- pany as part of its restructuring. the Asia Pacific region were driv- en by strong sales in Korea, and , mostly due to the marketing and brand recogni- tion from last year’s sponsorship Cup. of soccer’s World parel sales rose 12 percent to $307 million, while athletic foot- wear revenues dipped by 1 per- cent to $761 million. Total rev- enues, including equipment sales, in the U.S. rose by 3 percent to $1.13 billion from $1.09 billion. by 6 percent to $239 million, while footwear revenues were up by 7 percent to $363 million. Total revenues for the region, which includes the Mideast and Africa, rose by 8 percent to $646 million. gain in apparel sales, up by 16 percent to $116 million. Footwear revenues gained 17 percent to $186 million. Total sales were up in the region by 17 percent to $335 million. footwear revenues declined, by 12 percent to $30 million and 2 percent to $69 million, respec- tively. Overall sales fell by 4 per- cent to $107 million in the region. from other operations — Nike Golf, Bauer Nike Hockey Inc., Cole Haan and Hurley Inter- national — grew 10 percent to $185 million. lyst at UBS Warburg, wrote in a research note earlier in the week that shares of Nike’s stock, in part, have “rebounded over the past few months in anticipation of The bankruptcy bill would require But opponents say the bill would pe- “There is no bankruptcy crisis,” de- debtors to undergo a means test to see if they can repay a portion of what they owe. Backers of the bill argue the meas- ure would curb filings by people who use bankruptcy as a financial planning tool. They argue such abuse costs American families $400 a year in higher prices. nalize people who’ve fallen on hard times or low-income workers saddled with debt created by easy access to high- interest credit card deals. Lawrence Stroll Despite a 12 per- The company confirmed LaMonica is being replaced For For the three months ended Philip Knight, chairman and “We continue to focus on Gross margins in the quarter Executives said during a con- LaMonica to Exit Kors Post Kors Exit LaMonicato By Eric Wilson Eric By NEW YORK — and Silas Chou have begun to make their mark at Michael LLC. Kors several executive changes on including the Wednesday, ex- pected departure of long- Kors’ time business John partner, Orchulli, but also said that Barbara LaMonica, president of Michael Kors since 1998, is leaving the firm. by Donna Karan veteran Alli- son Ryba, who was named in- terim president. Also joining the company in a consulting role is Donna Karan and Lei- ber Group alum Susan Sokol, who is currently president of SLS Consulting. Sales Increase Doesn’t Help Nike Profit Nike Help Doesn’t Increase Sales Young M. Vicki By NEW YORK — cent increase in U.S. apparel revenues, Nike Inc. on Wed- nesday posted third-quarter re- sults that included a 1.3 percent decrease in net income. 28, the company said income Feb. fell to $124.7 million, or 47 cents a diluted share, from $126.3 mil- lion, or 46 cents, in the year-ago period. Sales rose 6.2 percent to $2.4 billion from $2.26 billion. chief executive officer, said in a statement, expected, “As this quarter’s results reflect the grow- ing strength of both our brand and our business around the globe. This our quarter, U.S. footwear business regained momentum in the marketplace as consumers thoroughly embraced our high- end performance product. Inter- despite geopolitical un- nationally, certainty, our business continued to perform well. as evidenced by an- profitability, other quarter of strong gross margin expansion. Overall, I am confident in our ability achieve sustainable, to profitable growth over the long term.” picked up 160 basis points to 40.7 percent of sales from 39.1 per- cent in last year’s quarter. ference call after the markets closed that the demand for ap- parel in the latest quarter has been the “strongest” in years. They also noted that revenues in “The real victory isn’t getting bank- seeking to dissolve debt stemming from clinic violence. ruptcy reform passage by the House or even by the House and Senate. We’ve done that three times in the last six years,” said Tracy Mullin, president and chief executive of the National Retail in a Federation, statement. “The real vic- tory will be getting this bill onto the President’s desk and signed into law. That’s been the challenge, and there are still more steps before we get to that point this year.” ” Beattie said the growth of the Beattie also credited restruc- These contributed to a 250- Overall, for the full fiscal year, Sales for the year increased Also on the call, the firm broke “Our mall-based department percent and our fragrance portfo- lio was up 16 percent.” fragrance business was primari- ly a function of the launch of Arden beauty, which did partic- ularly well in the international retail marketplace. turing initiatives begun early in the year for the improved results. Among the changes, Arden consol- idated three distribution facilities into two, moved various services previously provided by Unilever into either in-house operations or to lower-cost providers and re- structured its U.S. department store business. basis-point decline in selling, general and administrative ex- penses as a percentage of sales for the year to 28.8 percent, or $216.5 million, versus 31.3 per- cent, or $208.9 million, a year ago. The lower relative costs were achieved despite a 25 per- cent increase in advertising spending. the company reported profits of $14.5 million, or 78 cents a dilut- ed share. By comparison, last year Arden lost $33.3 million, or $1.92. Excluding payments for dividends on preferred stock in both years, earnings would have been $18.2 million versus a loss of $29.8 million a year ago. 12.6 percent to $752 million from $668.1 million in the prior year. On a constant currency basis, net sales gained 11 percent. out full-year sales to the firm’s biggest customers. store channel declined,” said example, May Co. “For was West. down 12 percent and Federated was down 13 percent. Dillard’s, however, was up 1 percent and J.C. Penney was up 1 percent. increased Wal-Mart 49 percent increased and 52 Target percent. Rite Aid grew 13 percent, Wal- greens was up 3 percent and CVS declined 16 percent. Our travel retail business increased 14 percent.” — E. Scott Beattie, Elizabeth Arden Inc. Arden Elizabeth Beattie, Scott E. — Retailers Retailers scored a vic- Robust Robust sales

We are We building market share in our “We are building “We market share The improved results and Looking ahead, Arden esti- Net sales for the period rose For For the three months ended The company also announced This is the fourth attempt to push

fragrance portfolio and our skin care and hair care portfolios. “ in our fragrance portfolio and our skin care and hair care portfo- lios,” said Beattie on a conference call with analysts. “Our mass re- tail market in the U.S. was up over 20 percent, and our interna- tional business was up over 20 percent. The U.S. department store business continues to be a generally difficult environment for all beauty-related companies. a From brand portfolio, all our key brands were up on a global basis. In terms of the Elizabeth Arden brand, our skin care busi- ness was up 5 percent on a global basis, our color business was up 5 rosy outlook, along with an up- grade in its Standard & Poor’s outlook to stable from negative, launched Arden shares $1, or 9.8, to close at $11.24 in Nasdaq trading Wednesday. mated for the year ending next January diluted EPS growth of 20 to 25 percent on net sales growth of 5 to 7 percent, assum- ing there is no impact from rates. changes in exchange 17.7 percent to $169.8 million from $144.2 million a year ago. Jan. 31, the Miami Lakes, Fla.- based fragrance and beauty man- ufacturer reported a net loss of $440,000, or 2 cents a diluted share. That compares with last year’s much greater loss of $20.1 million, or $1.14. Earnings per share beat the Wall Street esti- mate by 3 cents. $913,000 Excluding paid in dividends on preferred stock, the firm would have earned $473,000. that Paul West has been promoted West that Paul to president from executive vice president, a title formerly held by chairman and chief executive of- ficer contin- E. Scott Beattie. West ues as chief operating officer. growth helped Elizabeth Arden Inc. reduce its losses in the fourth quarter and eradicate them entirely for the year. NEW YORK — Names West President West Names Burrows Dan By Arden Narrows Losses, Narrows Arden bankruptcy reform legislation through Congress since 1997. Although bills have passed both chambers three times, last- minute negotiations reconciling House and Senate versions have stalled. Last year’s hang up was an unrelated amend- ment targeting anti-abortion protesters WASHINGTON WASHINGTON — tory Wednesday when the House passed bankruptcy reform legislation that would make it harder to entirely wipe out debt in bankruptcy court, but the industry will have to hold off celebrating. Fourth Time’s a Charm for Bankruptcy Bill Bankruptcy for Charm a Time’s Fourth 4 Express-ing Themselves The Design World, According to Toth

By Lisa Lockwood the Good Life,” by Cynthia With Independent Spirit Rowley and Ilene NEW YORK — Diesel and Rosenzweig, Harper’s By Valerie Seckler sion and having the passion to Collette in Paris, Thomas Bazaar and Visionaire . help those with great ideas get Pink and Nike. Toth said he was ap- NEW YORK — Lights, camera, to the next level.” According to Mike Toth, proached in November 2001 Express. “The Battle of Shaker president and creative di- by Rockport to work on a Aiming to promote an identi- Heights” is centered around a rector of Toth Brand book to help people under- ty as a forward, young brand young war re-enactor who makes Imaging, they are among the stand the mystery that sur-

WWD, THURSDAY, MARCHWWD, THURSDAY, 20, 2003 with an innovative spirit, the a friend on the battlefield, who handful of visionary brands rounds fashion, particularly Express division of Limited helps him develop a strategy to that can bridge the worlds of what makes accessible fash- Brands is staging a pair of mar- take on an enemy at his high fashion and advertising. “It’s ion brands work. After his keting plays that tie-in Express school. Driven by a newfound difficult for ad agencies to team figured out which com- with independent film projects. sense of confidence, he risks that do good fashion, and for panies did a great job of And the brand, which targets friendship when he seduces his fashion people to do good fashion branding, they had customers in their mid-20s, is friend’s sister. Cast members in- branding,” said Toth, who to convince them to be part currently exploring similar pro- clude Amy Smart (“Road Trip,” has written a book with of the project. He and his motions in other industries, in- “Varsity Blues”), Elden Henson writer Jennie D’Amato team did most of their work cluding link-ups with independ- (“The Mighty,” “Idle Hands”), called “Fashion Icon: The by telephone. While several ent music projects. Shiri Appleby (“Roswell,” Power and Influence of well-known brands are fea- “We’re trying to figure out “Swimfan”) Billy Kay (LIE) and Graphic Design” (Rockport Some of Toth’s favorite ads: Louis Vuitton… tured, a few are omitted, some unique things we can bring newcomer Shia LeBeouf as the Publishers, $50). The coffee- namely Calvin Klein and to our customers to spread the lead. The movie is slated to pre- table book comes out May 15. Ralph Lauren. name of the Express brand,” miere in Los Angeles in August. Toth’s ad agency has done “We didn’t ask Calvin. We Derek Ungless, executive vice In addition to its newfound the ad campaigns for such didn’t want to go after the president of marketing at association with Project brands as Tommy Hilfiger, obvious ones. The only one Express, said in an exclusive in- Greenlight, Express is sponsor- Nautica, Wrangler, Esprit, who turned us down is terview. “People in their twenties ing the Independent Spirit Men’s Health, Coach, John Ralph Lauren, who was busy these days are particularly inter- Awards, for the third straight Varvatos, J. Crew, and with two books coming out,” ested in achievement; in what year, and mounting a wardrob- Stride Rite. said Toth. they can do, even at a young age.” ing program that helps defray In an interview here, In the book, several cre- An Express trailer the cost of those clothes for the Toth explained that the ative executives give their arrived Monday on the Los low-budget, indie films to be brands and people he writes points of view about brand- Angeles set of “The Battle of honored by those awards. about in the book are the …Donna Karan… ing, and what creates a last- Shaker Heights,” where At this year’s awards, given ones “who can maintain a brand’s relevance ing brand. For example, Laird, president and ex- Express will provide wardrobe this Saturday, on the beach in throughout the course of time, keeping it fresh ecutive creative director of Laird & Partners, for principal cast members and Santa Monica, Calif., Express and relevant, with surprises.” The book show- which handles such accounts as Donna Karan, crew. The film’s super- will open an Express Your cases those whom Toth believes do innovative Gap and Nautica (who last week won the ac- visor, Bega Metzner — daughter Gratitude Boutique, to celebrate work in print advertising, retailing, photography, count from Toth), said, “Brands have an essence, of fashion photographer Sheila the spirit of indie films. The magazines, packaging and shopping bags. a point of view, feelings, style and sensibility — Metzner — has already filled boutique will give the film stars, Creative executives, such as Reed Krakoff and like a person. And you play it out. The best the Express wardrobe trailer producers, directors and agents Trey Laird, who are behind such ground-breaking brands constantly move forward. Always within with more than $10,000 worth of a chance to thank those who campaigns for Coach and Donna Karan, respec- their personality. They are clean and consistent, spring-summer Express mer- helped them achieve success. tively, are featured, as are the ad campaigns for without being repetitive or boring.” Kate Spade, Jack Spade, Louis Vuitton, Christian Lindbergh said, “For a brand to come alive Dior, Diesel and Marc Jacobs Perfume. The book through a woman, there has to be a triangular also illustrates unusual packaging concepts, such relationship between the designer, model and as Thomas Pink’s rock-candy pink rectangular tie photographer.” Otherwise, he said, “the pictures box, Hermès’ distinctive orange box with brown are cold and more philosophical.” The downside ribbons and Prada’s cleansing products that come occurs when a model becomes a supermodel in peel-back wrappers. Shopping bags are also and she competes with the brand for attention — tapped as an important branding mechanism, like all except, that is, Linda Evangelista. “Linda is a those by Tiffany and Fendi. Cutting-edge stores, model I love to shoot,” Lindbergh said. “She is a which the author calls “destinations in their own chameleon….There are many great model-per- right, pure theatre,” are also critical to creating a sonalities. You can always find the right spirit brand’s aura, such as those by Prada (designed for the brand.” by Rem Koolhaas), Niketown, Diesel, and The book explains that fashion icons “give us Collette in Paris. what we want, even before we are aware of what The book also devotes a section to creative it is we want. Such is the irony of branding: that imagery and cites such photographers as Nick it works silently, nearly invisible, alongside Knight and Peter Lindbergh, as well as books fashion itself, casting a shadow-spell long and magazines such as “Swell: A Girl’s Guide to enough for us to enter into.”

An Express Your Gratitude Boutique will be featured at the Independent Spirit Awards.

chandise and is collaborating Participants will pick items with the brand’s design studio from Express’ spring collection to create custom pieces for the with which to thank the one per- indie project. The Express logo son who most helped them get to and Web site address are where they are today. wrapped around the trailer. The Independent Spirit The movie is being produced Awards will be hosted by direc- under the auspices of Project tor John Waters and co-chaired Greenlight — the second such by Halle Berry. Express will also endeavor — and is being sup- outfit the Spirit Award statuette …Christian Dior… …and some stylish shopping bags. ported by Miramax, which is presenters, who include Daniel providing a minimum of $1 mil- Day-Lewis, Mena Suvari, Adrien lion for its production budget, Brody, Brittany Murphy and and Live Planet, in addition to Jake Gyllenhaal. Among the Express, which is the exclusive nominees are Jennifer Aniston, fashion sponsor. Live Planet Maggie Gyllenhaal, Dennis LVMH, PPR Looking to Shed Non-Core Assets seeks to create entertainment Quaid, Julianne Moore, Parker that breaks down barriers be- Posey and Juliette Lewis. PARIS — It looks like French quired the firm in 1998 via its 46 sites located in the U.K., tween traditional media, new “These are people who rep- fashion titans Bernard Arnault LV Capital investment arm. , , The Nether- media, and the physical world. resent an independent spirit, a and François Pinault are still LVMH officials could not be lands, Belgium and , to It was founded in June 2000 by young Hollywood attitude to- in a mood to slim down. reached for comment; however, British group Ashtenne for $43.9 Ben Affleck, Sean Bailey, Matt ward movie making in Speculation is mounting Arnault recently indicated that million (converted from euros at Damon and Chris Moore. America,” Ungless noted. here that Arnault’s luxury giant his group would continue to shed the current exchange rate). “Project Greenlight is a rev- “There’s an alignment between LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis marginal and non-core assets. Rexel called the sale part of its olutionary idea that is closely where we’re positioning the Vuitton will soon shed Com- Meanwhile, Rexel, the elec- ongoing strategy to concentrate aligned with our brand objec- Express brand and what these pagnie Financière Laflachere, trical components company on its core electrical supplies tive: providing an outlet for in- guys are up to — a moving for- whose main asset, La Brosse et owned by Pinault’s distribution business. PPR has said it plans dividuality and creativity, ward,” he added. “This repre- Dupont, makes everything from giant Pinault-Printemps-Re- to sell Rexel before the end of whether through film, music, sents the spirit of our aspira- hairbrushes to toothbrushes doute, said Wednesday that it 2004 as part of its focus on its re- art or fashion,” Ungless stated. tional customer, many of whom and toiletry cases. LVMH ac- sold its property portfolio, with tail and luxury activities. “It’s all about personal expres- are first-jobbers.” AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ¨ Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Cotton Incorporated, 2002. Cotton. The fabric of our lives. our of fabric The Cotton. Summer print shift by Lilly Pulitzer. Fabric by cotton. Pulitzer.by Lilly Fabric by shift print Summer bloom ® www.cottoninc.com 6 Prada Comme des Garçons WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY,

A Guy Thing 7

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Borrowing men’s haberdashery looks is a classic gambit for designers of women’s fashion. But every few years, that notion takes center stage again, as it did for fall. The new interpretations ranged from the almost literal — as in Gianfranco Ferré’s dashing pinstriped , replete with a trenchcoat and tie — to boy-meets- girl mixes, such as Miuccia Prada’s flowered , snappy little , tailored pants and patterned for Prada. PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND DAVID TURNER DAVID AND MAESTRI DAVIDE GIANNONI, GIOVANNI BY PHOTOS 8 Active Lifestyle Eve to Rap Up Reebok Classic A lighting fixture suspended from a tree near shops.

NEW YORK — Reebok’s forthcoming advertising Unlike Shakira, Eve does not have an endorse- campaign is all about Eve. ment deal. Eve’s contract runs through May of 2004, The sneaker giant has teamed up with the hip- but it has not yet been determined if she will appear hop starlet and actress to plug its Classic label. in other Reebok ads, Povinelli said. The Canton, Eve performs along with the rapper Fabolous Mass.-based athletic label liked the fact that Eve was in a 30-second spot that debuts March 26 on BET, ringside at last month’s New York collections.

WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, Comedy Central, ESPN Networks and MTV among “We were looking for someone who would ap- other channels. The duo came up with an original peal to more urban consumers. Eve is clearly a song for the commercial, which was developed by leader in the music industry and she has extreme- The Arnel Group. ly high fashion credentials. She is as much a fash- Eve will also strut her stuff in two print ads for ion icon as a music icon,” he said. Reebok, which breaks in Reebok has also May issues of Jane, In stocked up the rapper, Style, Honey, Teen People who appeared in a and Vibe. Referring to her in the most recent edition nickname “The Blonde of Fashion of The Times, Speed Racer Storms Tokyo Bombshell,” one ad has a with its activewear even shot of the fair-haired mu- though she has no con- NEW YORK — Kim sician with the tag line, tractual obligations to Speed lived up to her “Bombshell Classic.” wear it. With plans to name during a recent Another shows the launch her own clothing tour of Tokyo, scouring Philadelphia native wear- line called Fetish this 100 stores in two days. ing a NBA 76ers fall, she is not getting in- Salomon’s apparel and Classic Oryx volved with Reebok’s de- category manager trek- footwear. This spring the sign team, Povinelli said. ked there for a world- $65 footwear will be sold Eve in an upcoming ad for Reebok Classic. “I can’t say we won’t wide design meeting, exclusively at Foot Locker. be discussing that down which is now held in dif- Eve is the third female musician to appear in a the road, but it’s not part of the current agree- ferent cities to give de- Classic ad. Queen Latifah kicked off the campaign ment,” he said. signers a taste of other three years ago and Shakira is the only other In other news, Reebok plans to spend be- markets. Prior to the songstress to appear in the ads, which have fea- tween $65 million and $75 million on capital two-day powwow, Speed tured Iggy Pop, Samuel Jackson and others. Terms projects this year, compared with $27.6 million in spent 48 hours marching Stores without signs are popular. of the deal were not disclosed. 2002, according to a SEC filing. The investment through the streets in This is not her first foray with a footwear com- will be used to support its European efforts, to search of trends. pany, since she designed a for Candie’s earli- roll out its information management software, to “There is no sport er this year. bolster its sports licensing production and to add there,” she said. “Sport Brian Povinelli, director of global advertising 10 factory stores outside the U.S. Reebok cur- is fashion and that’s it. I for Reebok, said, “Eve has broad appeal. She is rently has 53 factory stores in Europe, Canada, didn’t see any sporting one of the first artists in the campaign who has Mexico and Japan. goods stores. Basically, male and female appeal — urban and suburban.” — Rosemary Feitelberg every big shop I went into had Nike or Adidas on display with dresses and skirts.” North Face backpacks, An artistic screen at Commes des Garçons. Y-3 ballerina flats, knee- length skirts worn with sneakers, railroad engineer-type striped tops with girly details, a cornucopia of Louis Vuitton bags and a leather version of a rock climber’s chalk bag were some of her favorites. Then there was the artistic-looking outdoor lighting fixture hanging from a tree that seemed untethered to any of the sur- rounding stores, and such quirky displays as a cup of instant soup, with $400 limited-edition shoes, a book and a CD player. “It was pretty random, but it all set the stage,” she said. “Visually, it was pretty intoxicating. It was really an uplifting ex- perience. It was easy to get around and shopping just seemed fun. Sometimes when you go shopping, everything looks the same and people can be snobby. But not there.” Speed said she was impressed with the intri- cacies of the merchan- dising, especially in spe- cialty stores. Many of them were housed in nondescript buildings without signs, giving shoppers a sense of dis- Images of Wal-Mart near a pair of Nikes. covery and being an in- sider. Certain areas were reminiscent of the way the Williamsburg section of Brooklyn was five years ago. Some smaller stores trumped better-known ones like Miu Miu and Comme des Garçons in terms of their displays, ac- cording to Speed, who likened their expertise and A tinfoil elephant rests beside Lucien sense of style to the rigor Pellat-Finet . they use in tea ceremonies. “The whole culture there is so disciplined,” she said. “There are so many people who are so polite and so strict that people want to be unique where they can.” Aside from the cardboard speakers that fold into size and the rest of the loot she bought at Muji, Speed took home something more abstract, finding some design direction in the way Japanese designers combine different fabrics, patterns, lay- ers of fabrics and unfinished hems. Americana was also evident in calico and cowboy accents like fringe and . “There was a lot of asymmetry, but not much Eighties stuff and no Sixties stuff,” Speed said. “It was more Seventies, but a little more sophisticated. It’s not campy anymore and much more delicate.” — R.F. 9 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2003 Value Sells as Ross Profits Gain in ’02 By Jennifer Weitzman at compelling discounts,” Mich- margin. However, the retailer ex- off slowly. “As we entered 2003, should increase 1 to 3 percent ael Balmuth, chief executive, perienced a slight decline in we decided that being more con- and forecasting comp increases NEW YORK — Benefiting from a said on a morning conference gross margin as lower mark- servative in our outlook, espe- of 2 to 3 percent in the second consumer focused intently on call. “The great bargains we downs and distribution costs cially concerning the first quar- quarter and 3 to 4 percent in both value, Ross Stores said Wed- were able to offer in a wide were not enough to offset the ter, was prudent because of the the third and fourth quarters. nesday that higher sales and array of name-branded fashions sharper pricing strategy and recent slow-down trend, the later With much of the quarter left better buying opportunities for the family and the home higher freight costs. Easter holiday and the usual to go, the company reaffirmed its paved the way for double-digit were an attractive choice for Geographically, Balmuth said weather risks to early spring earnings outlook for the first increases in both its fourth- customers seeking values.” sales trends in the quarter were sales,” as well as the challenging quarter to range between 62 and quarter and yearend profits. Richard Jaffe, a retail analyst relatively consistent with posi- comparisons with last year and 65 cents a share, versus 59 cents Newark, Calif.-based Ross at UBS Warburg, said, “Even in a tive comp gains in all major mar- the uncertain geopolitical and last year, and said it is anticipat- Stores, the nation’s second-largest tough economic environment, kets, including California, where economic environments. ing 2003 EPS to range between off-price apparel chain behind Ross has shown the ability to out- comps rose 3 percent. In addition to February’s $2.80 and $2.90. TJX Cos., said income for the perform. So when you get rid of Ross, which currently oper- below plan, 3 percent comp de- For the year, income jumped three months ended Feb. 1 fat- the other noise-hurting retailers ates 507 stores, added 55 new cline, Balmuth said halfway 29.8 percent to $201.2 million, or tened 17.6 percent to $58.7 mil- in general, Ross could benefit as stores in 2002 and expects to through March, comps are again $2.52 a diluted share, versus in- lion, or 74 cents a diluted share, consumers continue to shop open an additional 62 this year. tracking slightly below its comp come of $155 million, or $1.91, in matching Wall Street’s consensus harder to receive better value.” Looking ahead, Balmuth said goal of flat to down 2 percent. But 2001. Sales blossomed 18.2 per- estimates. Last year, the firm re- Balmuth said the quarterly re- that, while he is confident in the he said he expects comps to grad- cent to $3.53 billion over 2001 ported income of $50 million, or sults benefited from a 31 basis- firm’s ability to achieve its finan- ually improve over the balance of sales of $2.99 billion, with comps 62 cents. point expansion in operating cial targets, the year was starting the year, noting comps in April up 7 percent. Sales for the quarter rung in at $964.6 million, a 13.7 percent in- crease over sales of $848.4 million reached in the year-ago quarter. Comparable-store sales rose 3 percent on of an 8 percent boost in the prior-year quarter. In reaction to the company warning that sales are trending below plan in March, investors THE sent shares down $1.17, or 3.1 percent, to close at $36.18, in WORLD’S Nasdaq trading. “Our financial results benefit- ed from our ability to take ad- NEXT GREAT vantage of great opportunities in the market for branded products FASHION

CAPITALSM P&G, Wella Deal May Aid Tchibo’s Beiersdorf Play BERLIN — Tchibo’s chances of evolving from a minority to a ma- jority shareholder in Beiersdorf may have vastly improved in the wake of Procter & Gamble’s suc- cessful bid for Wella. German financial circles speculated Wednesday that Allianz, Beiersdorf ’s majority shareholder, may be warming up to an offer from Tchibo. That speculation was strengthened by Allianz chief financial officer Paul Achleitner’s statement Tuesday that “should a decent offer be placed on the table, we’d be ready to sell.” More light may be shed on the situation today, when the Munich-based insurer and financial services company holds its annual press conference. Allianz has been shopping around its 43.6 percent stake in Beiersdorf for the last two years. The financial services company is under considerable financial pressure due to its poorly performing Dresdner Bank subsidiary. It’s well known that Tchibo wants to add to its 30 percent Beiersdorf stake, but the Ger- man coffee and retail concern Atlanta Women’s & Children’s couldn’t compete with the bid- Apparel/Accessories Market and ding power of industry heavy- Atlanta’s International Bridal & weights L’Oréal and P&G. Special Occasion Show. April 3-7, 2003 But both P&G and L’Oréal at AMERICASMART®■ATLANTA. now appear to be out of the run- New Temporaries open April 3-6. ning. Most observers suggest that P&G’s Wella deal places it out of further bidding action for Discover what’s new and next: the present time and L’Oréal has visit AmericasMart.com® or call: apparently lost interest, due to 800.ATL.MART or 404.220.3000. the obstacle of Tchibo’s blocking minority, as well as possible an- titrust hurdles. — Melissa Drier 10 Junior/Contemporary Report Kangol Jumps Into Apparel Calling By Julee Greenberg All Divas NEW YORK — Kangol is thinking beyond . NEW YORK — More than a thousand divas- For more than 60 years, the -based in-training turned out at Webster Hall here brand has been known primarily for its array of this month hoping to be the winner of trendy hats, made famous by such celebrities as VH1’s “Born To Diva: The Search for a LL Cool J, Samuel L. Jackson, Eve and Jennifer Superstar” contest.

WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, Lopez. Now, the junior customer can dress in The reality series, scheduled to begin Kangol from head to toe with sportswear, bags airing April 28, will feature the diva hope- and eyewear. And boys can have it, too, as the fuls from five major cities, including company will launch a young men’s sportswear London, Atlanta, Miami, Philadelphia and line, bags and eyewear at the same time. New York, showcasing their talents. Since Licensed in the U.S. to Chesterfield Manu- the series has been taped, the winners from facturing, the new sportswear line is planned for each market have been chosen by three a soft launch at retail in April. The first official music industry executives: Ron Grant, Ken line of Kangol sportswear will launch in the fall, Komisar and Corey Rooney. The winners just in time for back to school. It will consist of were then sent to “diva camp,” where They kitschy printed T-, short skirts, pants, producers and their team attempted to turn Are sweaters and outerwear wholesaling between $10 raw talent into polished performers. ® and $250. Bollman Co. will continue to manu- Prior to boot camp, the finalists were Wearing facture the brand’s signature hats in the U.S. each be interviewed by a “celebrity diva” under license and will take on the bags and eye- to learn what it’s like to be a true diva. At wear collections as well. the casting call here on March 5, contest- Theresa Scott has been named president at ants met with Kelly Rowland of Destiny’s Chesterfield Manufacturing, where she will over- Child; in Philadelphia, it was Patty see the Kangol apparel lines in the U.S. Scott LaBelle; Lisa Stansfield in London; Gloria joined the company from Sean John, where she Estefan in Miami, and Tionne “T-Boz” was director of sales since its launch in 1998. Watkins and Chilli from TLC in Atlanta. “There is such an opportunity in junior ap- The winning diva will perform on this parel,” Scott said. “This is a true sportswear col- year’s VH1’s “Diva’s Live” show on May lection that the coolest of the coolest girls will 22 and receive a record and management want to wear. There are already so many girls contract with music industry veteran out there wearing the hats and they have been Tommy Mottola. asking for the clothes for quite some time now.” Webster Hall was the network’s final stop Scott said the company plans to open some on the tour and women of all kinds showed freestanding Kangol stores in 2004, the first Fans of Kangol’s up in their most-diva getups. From the basic being in downtown Manhattan, as well as in- famous hats can pair of jeans with a T-shirt to the outrageous store shops at major department stores. now wear apparel fur bomber and bright blue , Although the lease has yet to be finalized, in to match. these diva wannabes spared no expense to June, Kangol will have its own showroom on show VH1 that they are “Born To Diva.” Broadway in the Garment District. She said Here, some highlights from the night. she expects $15 million in first-year sales for — J.G. the junior line. According to the company, the apparel, bag and eyewear collections will stay true to the eclectic look of Kangol by pulling inspiration from three eras of its history. The traditional look of the late Thirties, retro feel of the Eighties and modern vibe of the current year are combined as the inspiration for each piece. These three eras are further reflected in the brand’s logo “38.83.03,” which will be used on the label throughout the lines. The numbers rep- resent significant years in Kangol’s history: 1938 was its founding year; 1983 was when 16-year-old rapper LL Cool J wore a Bermuda hat, sparking the Kangol trend in the U.S., and 2003, the cur- rent year. The last number will change with each new year. To celebrate the launch, the company is plan- ning an event in August at the Bronx Zoo near

the kangaroo cage, of course. MITRA ROBERT BY PHOTOS IANNACONE THOMAS BY PHOTOS Bella Bella Success Readies Firm for Rapid Expansion DALLAS — Bella Bella’s economically friendly mix of styl- Houston and San Antonio. ish looks, generally priced from $40 to $150, already put the The partners are concentrating on areas that, so far, newcomer on the expansion path. have been passed over by the big European chains Zara Opened in October at the trendy West Village center and Hennes & Mauritz, which also offer trendy styles at here, Bella Bella has contracted to expand its 1,800-square- moderate and better prices. Bella Bella’s main competi- foot space with an additional 800 square feet next door. tion will be junior-oriented fashion chains, such as “We’ve been doing really well since we opened and the Rampage, Gadzooks, Wet Seal and Charlotte Russe. prices impress everybody because they can get a shirt for In addition, Dallas and other major Texas cities are al- $39 or $49,” said Diana Tabeshi, who manages the store ready saturated with independent contemporary stores with her sister, Angie Amadi. “Some people buy an outfit that target a similar fashion customer, but those boutiques every weekend.” typically have higher price points than Bella Bella. Owners Roberto Tabeshi and Michael Jay got the idea Tabeshi and Amadi, who were personal shoppers in Los for Bella Bella from their five years of experience running Angeles before relocating to Dallas, will manage the chain. Startex Enterprises, a contemporary firm based in Los So far, sales at West Village have exceeded their expec- Angeles that imports and sells through distributors to such tations at well over $500 a square foot. Future Bella Bella specialty chains as Rampage. units will be about 2,000 square feet and are expected to “We decided to try the retail market and see where pull in at least $500 a square foot, the partners said. The this will take us, and we figured Dallas was a growing store’s merchandise is different from that sold by their market,” Jay said. “We plan to have a big chain of stores wholesale firm, Tabeshi and Jay stressed. and this is our .” “Our concept is quality at an affordable price,” Jay said. The entrepreneurs plan to open five Bella Bella units Key styles included a crisp, white cotton with a in the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex within the year and tulle underlay for $60, a black flocked chenille spaghetti- expect to have 25 stores in 10 states within the next two strap dress with a fringed hemline for $99, and a black pin- The store’s years. Potential locations in the Metroplex are Fort stripe, stretch-cotton blouse at $49 over a bias-cut seamed interior. Worth, South Lake and the Lovers Lane strip, and skirt with a jagged hemline for $59. Preston Plaza in Dallas, they said, followed by Austin, — Holly Haber PHOTO BY GEORGE HENSON GEORGE BY PHOTO

WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2003 11 PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE TYLER BY PHOTO A one-of-a-kind Bottega Veneta bag. with seven one-of-a-kind bags made of python, bags made one-of-a-kind with seven — and or feathers crystals lizard, Swarovski one of by hand, inside “Made each reading evening collection is in Los one.” The special only — and will never be Angeles this week stores. seen in Bottega and Tomas Maier Tomas The Apparel & Accessories Show That Delivers Trade The fastest growing show for the hottest segments of the fashion marketplace. Bringing manufacturers and retailers together in the heart and soul of the fashion industry City. – New York The latest trends… broad international exposure… free leading edge seminars… extensive press coverage…unparalleled amenities… exceptional customer service. Featuring: ACCESSORIES CASUAL LIFESTYLE/BETTER JUNIOR STREETWEAR YOUNG CONTEMPORARY/CONTEMPORARY May 4-6, 2003 Jacob Javits Convention Center City New York exhibit call 888.964.5100 To or 917.326.6237 attend, register online at To or www.industry212.com call 877.554.4834 or 218.723.9792 Formerly — initially went on the market Sarah Jessica Parker Bottega Veneta’s Bottega Veneta’s the West Village are up in arms over MTV’s rental over MTV’s are up in arms Village the West at 47 Charles Street for the of a town house “Making the Band 2,” show, filming of the reality say the house, which creation. Sources a P.Diddy with town homes cobbled together is actually two in back — three doors an additional building down from that of Matthew Broderick to $9 for $11 million before being reduced it for four million. MTV is said to have rented filming officially months for $2 million. Although neighbors have already began Tuesday, company’s complained about the production to each other recklessness, sending irate letters while workers that call for action. Last weekend, dog left set up cameras and painted, a its death. unattended on the roof leapt to BRAND NEW BAG: has joined the Oscar contest for the first time has joined the Oscar contest , the to Kate P.Diddy at age 21, Sheherazade Ben Goldsmith Are Leave it to Imran Khan , married Zac , married , about to tie the knot? The couple , about to tie the at 23. Jemima Fashion Scoops Although young, the couple would be following Although young, the couple would cause a ruckus. Residents of Charles Street in cause a ruckus. Residents of Charles Ventura NEIGHBORHOOD : SOMETHING IN THE HEIR: while his brother, youngest son of the late tycoon, Sir James youngest son of the banking heiress, Goldsmith, and Rothschild hosting a party next month at are said to be and insiders are saying in London, Annabel’s Ben, 23, to celebrate their engagement. it’s item for two years and Kate, 21, have been an the happy Of course, and are living together. in throwing a couple should have no problems inherited $30 lavish bash, since Ben recently million. Ben’s in the footsteps of their elder siblings. sister, For For the sixth Circulation 2 million-plus: National Geographic, Discover, Entertainment Discover, Circulation 1 million to 2 The Atlantic Monthly, Circulation 500,000 to 1 National Geographic Ad- Circulation 250,000 to Architectural Record, Circulation 100,000 to Circulation under 100,000: The American Scholar, Magazines nominated for The awards will be held The most glaring shutout Interestingly, Interestingly, no core Fashion Fashion and lifestyle mag- The Atlantic Monthly drew Besides being nominated Newsweek, O: The Oprah Magazine, Parenting and Sports Illustrated. Weekly, ESPN, Real Fortune, Weekly, Fair. Simple and Vanity million: Condé Nast Traveler, Condé Es- Nast Traveler, quire, House & Garden and The New Yorker. million: venture, Saveur, Skiing, venture, Texas Saveur, Monthly and W. 500,000: Harper’s Magazine, Mother Jones, Nylon and Preserva- tion. 250,000: The Chronicle of Higher Edu- JD cation, Policy, Foreign Jungle and STEPDesign. Inside General Excellence are: General Excellence May 7 at the Waldorf-Astoria. was Time Magazine, which was about the only serious weekly to find itself ignored. (The Newsweek, New The Yorker, Nation, The New Republic and The Atlantic Monthly all received nominations.) women’s women’s fashion magazine was nominated for photogra- phy or design. The nominees in those categories were: Details (which won the De- sign award last year), Dwell, Esquire, Nest, Surface (De- sign), and Condé Nast Travel- Elegant Bride, er, GQ, Nation- al Fair Geographic and Vanity (Photography). Style.com re- ceived a nomination for gen- eral excellence online. Vogue received a nomination, in the Leisure Interests category. azines took several nomina- tions, with WWD sister publi- cation W nominated for Gene- ral Excellence (circulation 250,000 to 500,000) and Nylon up for General Excellence (circulation 100,000 to 250,000). seven nominations, among them General Excellence (circulation 500,000 1,000,000), Feature Writing, to Reporting, Reviews and Crit- icism and Essays. for General Excellence for (circu- General Excellence lation of 500,000 to 1,000,000) David Remnick’s weekly earned nods for categories in- cluding Reporting, Essays, Feature Writing, Fiction, Col- umns and Commentary and and Criticism. Reviews NEW YORK — year in a row, The New York- er led the pack with nine nominations when the Amer- ican Society of Magazine Editors announced the final- ists for the National Magazine Wednesday. Awards New Yorker New Nine Grabs Nods ASME 12

Florist Shane The $13,500 Walker’s red jeweledjeweled jacketjacket byby Denim Dish and white Dallas couturier harlequin jacket John Russell was sold for $8,000 bundled with tickets with a trip to to the Elton John Fractal Changes Saint Maarten. Life Ball after the With a new staff and a fresh focus, Fractal jeans has Academy Awards. relaunched its brand for spring retailing. The Westlake, Ohio-based company, which uses lasers to burn patterns and effects into denim, launched in 2001 with a design focus as distinctive as its technology: The company’s jeans were decorated in fractals, or pat-

WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, terns of swirling lines that create the same shape when viewed from close up or far away. The lasers worked fine — in a couple of minutes the company could cover a plain pair of denim jeans in an Dallas couturier elaborate mass of swirling lines, an effect that could Dallas couturier have been duplicated only with elaborate embroidery or Michael by handpainting. Faircloth’s The only problem was the patterns didn’t catch on $10,000 with consumers. embroidered “It was very apparent to us that the technology was jacketjacket offeredoffered aa excellent and the execution was weak,” said Caton trip to San Burwell, director of Fractal’s New York office, who Miguel in joined the firm in December 2001. Mexico. While the patterns are gone, the name has stayed. Burwell said, “We’ve kept the name because it’s true to our heritage.” Last May, the company hired a new designer, Michelle Siwy, and set out to design a more marketable collection. Its current offering includes a tamer assortment of laser- treated, or lased, jeans ranging from whiskered and frayed looks to pinstriped styles and jeans that appear to have been washed and sanded down so that faded areas form the shape of a horse’s head, complete with detailed facial features and flowing mane. Siwy acknowledged that learning to design for the lasers — as opposed to the sanding and blasting tech- niques commonly used in jeans production — has required a lot of trial and error. “You have to make a lot of samples,” she said. After coming up with a pattern to lase into the jeans, the com- pany typically runs the design onto several pairs at dif- ferent intensities, both to judge how the initial effect DIFFA PHOTOS BY GEORGE HENSON GEORGE BY PHOTOS DIFFA

Burwell said eventually there may be more business cuffs and waistband in a jacket of beaded and embroi- potential in licensing the technology than in selling dered organza that fetched $10,000 and included a trip to Fractal’s brand of jeans. San Miguel in Mexico. — Holly Haber “That’s a debate we have internally,” he said, explain- ing that the process also works on other fabrics. The company has tested it on everything from cotton cor- Forwear Renamed Fractal jeans no duroy to polyester fleece. — Scott Malone The Forwear jeans line, which bowed last October, has longerlonger bearbear patternspatterns changed its named to A.Z.I. Jeans and adapted its look. of swirling lines, but of swirling lines, but The goal is to to separate the jeans offering from the main the company still Forwear better contemporary sportswear collection. uses lasers to burn The brand has grown from five to 17 styles and added imagesimages intointo denim.denim. new motifs and silhouettes, including jackets and skirts. In addition to its signature semiprecious stones, the fall will look and how the pattern will stand up to the indus- line includes lace and other embellishments. Along with trial washing process. blue, new fall colors include antique browns, green and “Just by varying the intensity, our technicians can grays, with more earth-tone beads and stones, such as adjust the effect from a light wash to fraying to amber and cat’s eye. New patterns feature stones and destroyed,” said Burwell. beads in geometric shapes, some with feathers. A few The company was founded by Darryl Costin, who basic tops and bottoms also have been added to pair with holds a doctorate in material science and developed the embellished looks. laser process for fabric. Fractal LLC is majority owned The jeans line sold more than 2,000 units wholesale by his holding company, TechnoLines LLC. DIFFA Auction Raises $300,000 from October to January, said Steve Palay, vice president of It currently lases jeans at facilities in Winder, Ga., Decorated denim can be a powerful force. sales. First-year sales are projected at $3 million for the and Taylorsville, N.C. Its sewing and washing facility is A runway show and auction of more than 100 embel- jeans line. Wholesale prices range from $79 to $89 for jeans, in Philadelphia, Miss. lished Levi’s jackets netted about $300,000 on March 8 to with skirts going for $60 to $70 and jackets from $99 to $110. The firm is also exploring the idea of setting up laser support AIDS service organizations in North Texas, all “After the initial response, we wanted the line to have stations at retail stores, which would allow consumers to thanks to the 14th annual benefit staged in Dallas by the its own identity” from the main Forwear line, said Palay, request custom-lased patterns, such as the wearer’s Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS. who added that embellishment is still going strong. name or a favorite image. Jeweled, feathered, recut, resewn and appliquéd, the “We’re following the jewelry market, and we’re generat- But the cost of that would be high — as much as Dallas Collection jackets were paraded before a crowd ing ‘happy clothes.’ With uncertainty and the [threat of] $100,000 to install the 50-watt laser necessary to run of 1,300 at the International Apparel Mart in a spirited war, people are buying impulse items.” — Georgia Lee such a system. (By comparison, the typical laser in a runway show themed “Nuestra Familia” — “Our Family.” handheld pointing model is a 5-milliwatt laser, with The production featured parodies of such TV shows as 1/10,000 the power of the 50-watt model. At its main laser “The Addams Family” and “The Osbornes” as well as centers, Fractal uses 2,500-watt lasers.) human embodiments of the zodiac signs and lots of high- Levi’s Expands Hammann Role The company has signed on Hatch showroom to han- energy dancing. “I wanted it to be a celebration of life,” Levi Strauss & Co. said Wednesday that it has ex- dle sales, and so far has sold $500,000 worth of spring said Rhonda Sargent Chambers, who chaired the event panded senior vice president Greg Hammann’s duties merchandise. For fall, the company hopes to double that and directed the show. to include oversight of the company’s Canadian and volume, said Burwell. Wholesale prices run from $50 for The bulk of the 120 jackets — including 15 for chil- Latin American operation. He continues to serve as a pair of jeans without laser treatment, which the com- dren — were decorated by an array of talent, from fash- chief customer officer for the U.S. pany calls “naked” jeans, to $65 for a fully lased pair. ion and interior designers to florists. Among the big fash- According to a Levi’s memo explaining the move, the The fall collection includes six silhouettes of jeans in ion names who reworked denim were , change “reflects the way many of our retail customers three lase patterns. It currently has the capacity to lase Gianfranco Ferré, Giuliana Teso, Kenneth Cole, Luca are increasingly managing the Americas as a single re- about 1 million pairs of jeans per year — it takes from 30 Luca and Narciso Rodriguez. Lead sponsors were gion versus separate sales territories.” seconds to two minutes per lase — but is not yet running Absolut Vodka, Levi Strauss and MAC AIDS Fund. Patricia Pliner, who had served as president of the at full laser capacity. The two top-grossing jackets were both created by San Francisco-based firm’s Levi Strauss Canada and Through other subsidiaries, TechnoLines also licens- Dallas designers who crafted made-to-measure clothing Latin America unit, on Monday was named senior vice es the technology to lase patterns onto rolls of fabric and for a high-profile clientele. John Russell’s jewel-encrust- president of sales and retail branding for Levi Strauss lase patterns, including whiskers and creases, onto ed number was bundled with tickets to Elton John’s Life Europe, Middle East and Africa. She reports to Joe jeans. Currently, only Fractal has the right to lase pat- Ball following the Academy Awards and sold for $13,500. Middleton, president of that region. terns onto finished jeans. Michael Faircloth retained denim only for the collar, Both changes took effect Monday. — S.M. 13 MilanoVendeModa Revival Features Bridge Focus THURSDAY,WWD, 2003 20, MARCH By Valerie Waterhouse and events,” she said, adding down, with racks of brown, that organizers were considering beige, stone and cream en- MILAN — A sharper focus on the doing just that. Like Nava, she livened with dashes of indigo, classic bridge market by well-es- said classic knitwear styles are fuchsia and antique pink. tablished companies defined the undergoing a change in mood. “We’ve made several new revived MilanoVendeModa fair, “Classic looks are in crisis be- contacts,” said Pierre Caffaggi, held for the first time since 1989, cause most women already have partner in Flu’s Ear, which from Feb. 28 to March 3 at the everything. American women, es- turned over $1 million last year. Milan fairgrounds. pecially, want informal and practi- “We already sell 5 percent of American buyers shopping for cal looks,” she said. Luxury our apparel to the U.S. and have stand-out wardrobe items — in- sportswear — like a camel-colored seen representatives from cluding sporty leathers and knits cashmere jogging suit with sequin Barneys, Takashiyama and with hand finishes — confirmed details — is one answer. The look Bloomingdale’s.” that the product range was more is also suitable for plus sizes. Buyers liked the company’s focused than at the Moda Milano Nicola Nicolini, owner-de- new knits and tops, with long fair it replaced. Expo CTS, the signer of She’s So, observed, welts and polo necks in multi- organizer of MVM, previously “Many [U.S. buyers] are putting colored striped rib knits and produced MoMi with Efima. off making the final order until draped georgette silk, he said. Still, 11,310 buyers made it to they see what happens in Iraq.” At Twice, designer Alessandro the show, including representa- He said, however, the global Cacciavillani said buyers went tives from Lane Crawford, Saks economic and political situation for romantic, sporty looks and a Fifth Avenue, Barneys New has had little effect on his com- cream cotton sweat jacket with York and Takashiyama, accord- pany, whose volume was $8 mil- Eskimo-inspired flower ap- A cream cotton Eskimo jacket with Tricot Chic’s vintage-style sequined zip- ing to Expo CTS, although the lion in 2002. pliqués and a fox-fur trim. suede details and Argentine fox-fur up jacket in wool and Lycra spandex. number of U.S. buyers was down This year’s collection included “We’re happy with the fair, al- trim from Twice at the White fair. slightly. There were 335 ex- signature sculptural pieces though buyers are taking longer season, U.S. designer Joey hibitors, mostly Italian firms. spruced up with new colors like to think before purchasing and fair. “We also showed at White Thyne created military “This year’s fair included the chocolate and Tibetan red. “Our consumption is down,” he said. when it was a part of MoMi at the softened with handprinted flow- experimental O-Zone and trend- extrawide skirt-pants [long cu- Grazia Castiglioni, showroom Milan fairground, but prefer this ers. Fitted, feminine in setting Light sections, but we lottes] are selling well, and are the and sales manager for conceptu- location,” she said. The $2 mil- stone or blue gray were also want to be known as a fair that first thing our clients reorder,” al knitwear firm Liviana Conti, lion company sells to Fred Segal strong. The garments, which does business,” said Armando Nicolini added. The line is car- said, “Clients want special pieces in Los Angeles and Macy’s West, wholesale at $54 to $120, retail Mammina, director of Expo CTS. ried by retailers including Ultimo that will last over time.” Henri among others. Harem pants, mil- in 90 sales points worldwide. “Most of the companies that show in Chicago and A1 in New York. Bendel ordered a range of simple itary coats and skirts with jungle- Designer Micha Layl of here are well established. Our In the Light section, sales knits, like a cross-shaped print linings and an optical T- Florence-based L’Essentiel said exhibitors know the reality of the and communication manager with and kimono sleeves. shirt in chocolate, gray and his firm’s eccentric boho styles moment, and presented competi- Lella Guarnerio of three-year- Key Colors were gray, black and cream were among key designs. sell better in and Japan tive collections that will help old leather firm Designer cream with dashes of fuchsia. At My Favourite Trousers, than in the U.S. Prewashed, them remain on the market.” Industry, said 80 percent of or- Assistant brand manager owner Maria Pia Bernardis said aged dinner jackets worn with To spark their assortments, ders were for classic pieces with Paola Rossi of Block 60, pro- buyers seemed to appreciate Thirties-style silk shirts and even in tenuous times, retailers unusual details, like a cream duced by Iceberg’s Gilmar, said the concept behind the year-old skintight pants with ankle zips were searching for novelty. military coat in fake suede, with buyers had appreciated the se- line, which aims to use a rota- were among the stand’s most

“I come here for unusual, semispherical silver lect range of companies at the tion of young designers. This striking looks. STUDIO KHEPRI BY PHOTOS high-quality items, such as and a short, silver blue lining, fancy knits, that can be com- wholesaling at $227. bined with simple pieces,” said Starr Kondos, owner-buyer for WHITE Starr Couture, a by-appoint- Concurrently, buyers crowded ment-only store that caters to a the aisles at the second edition high-end clientele in Barrington, of the trendsetting White fair. Ill., near Chicago. “Many of my More than 6,600 visitors, in- customers require larger sizes, cluding 5,297 buyers, attended so I’m looking for pieces with the show, up 34 percent from the looser fits. I have noticed a lot of last edition. Exhibitor numbers ivory and military looks.” also increased to 145 from 108 Other trends included sporty last fall. Half the vendors were or military-influenced knits with non-Italian and they included zippers, high welts, handknit Britain’s Joe Casely-Hayford, cuffs and collars, cargo pants France’s Antik Batik and the and the return of culottes. Brown U.S.’s Diane Von Furstenberg. and cream with brighter flashes The show was held at the are the dominant shades for fall. Superstudio Più in Via Tortona. Vendors like Flavio Nava, Sporting looks ranging from general manager of knitwear woolly ski worn with company Tricot Chic, said, “We combat gear to floor-sweeping have worked well and have seen turquoise coats, visitors were al- several U.S. clients from inde- most as eye-catching as the ap- pendent boutiques. Paris, how- parel they had come to view. ever, is becoming the focal point According to vendors, interna- for bridgewear.” tional buyers included represen- Nava said classic fashion tatives from Barneys, Ultimo, trends were also experiencing a Antoinette in Santa Barbara, major change. “Our turnover Calif., and Takashiyama. now stands at $10 million, up 35 “Buyers suggest that we percent from last year, with 5 maintain the number of ex- percent of total sales going to hibitors at around 150, offering the U.S. But the Cavalli-in- a selection of trendsetting com- spired, body-conscious look panies,” said Luigi Ciocca, pres- we’ve focused on for the last few ident of organizers Efima. “And seasons has peaked. Today’s 30- that’s what we propose to do.” year olds want more comfort- Trends varied from more able, casual, sporty looks.” feminine military looks to ro- Tricot Chic’s fall collection mantic, sporty styles. includes elaborate, vintage-style and dresses, combat pants with knitted jackets and sweaters, but zipper features, bomber jackets buyers also liked simpler pieces, and knits with high, ribbed including a quilted, cream ski welts were all popular. Sequins jacket with a fox-fur trim. and buttons — whether original At knitwear producer Marsil, vintage items, or in unusual ma- sales manager Silvia Noé said terials like reindeer — were despite the change in organiza- prominent on leatherwear and tion, her company was satisfied knits. There was also less sea- with MVM. The $10 million sonal distinction than in previ- Marsil is known for its contem- ous years, with lightweight ma- porary-meets-classic styles. terials such as silk georgette “We’ve seen a wide range of being proposed for fall-winter- clients, but I think the fair needs wear. Colors — particularly on livening up with fashion shows Italian stands — had quieted 14 TheWWDList Shopping is conspicuously missing from this list. That could be because many women consider it a chore rather than a pastime. Tennis is also absent, despite the ubiquitous, Play Time attention-grabbing styles worn by pros such as Venus and Serena Williams. But there are still The 15 most popular leisure activities among women 18 years plenty of other opportunities for retailers and manufacturers to tap. Women may be waiting and older for the past 12 months. for fashion-forward fly-fishing apparel or flattering clothes to wear around the campfire. GARDENING 52 percent of women cited this as their favorite leisure activity Baby Boomers have been cultivating the growth of the gardening industry, which reached $46 billion in 2001, according to trade industry WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, 1 groups. Apparel manufacturers could tap into this burgeoning market with functional, nonfrumpy duds for digging around in the dirt. SWIMMING 35 percent Swimwear manufacturers looking to grab a bigger share of the $2 billion-plus business would do well to listen to consumers. While many 2 look like they were made for Sports Illustrated babes, a 2001 Dupont consumer survey found that 75 percent of women want styles with tummy control that will take 10 pounds off their physiques. PHOTOGRAPHY 26 percent Consumers spent $15 billion on gear for amateur photography in the U.S. in 2000. While there’s no “” for weekend shutterbugs, 3 the fashion industry could ignite interest in Margaret Bourke White’s utilitarian uniform of khaki waistecoats and pants.

BICYCLING 22 percent The number of bicycles sold each year has hovered around 11 million. But total spending on bicycles, parts and accessories grew to $5.9 4 billion in 2000 from $5.5 billion in 1999, according to the National Bicycle Dealers Association. Cyclists have money to spend. The aver- age price of a mountain bike was more than $500 last year. BOWLING 20 percent Bowling is a $4 billion industry with more than 55 million people playing at least one game in 2001. It’s the biggest participatory sport in 5 the country, yet it’s been losing core business at an alarming rate since 1990. While league participation is down for men, women are gravitating toward the alleys. CAMPING 18 percent Trend-watchers have noted the increasing popularity of cocooning-friendly vacations since Sept. 11. First and foremost among these is 6 camping. Companies such as Recreational Equipment Inc. have seen annual sales grow from $1.8 million in 1966 to $740 million today. That’s a lot of jackets, and . ADULT CONTINUING EDUCATION 17 percent Distance learning has enabled anyone with a keyboard and a mouse to go to school. Boomers and seniors make up a large population of 7 back-to-schoolers, delving into thousands of courses from literacy to wine-tasting. These adults are curious, intelligent and possessed of discretionary income. JOGGING/RUNNING/POWER WALKING 16 percent Brands such as Adidas and Reebok are paying attention to form as well as function when it comes to footwear. According to research by 8 the NPD Group, walking-shoe sales reached $1.2 billion in 2001. Retailers say the customers behind those dollars have evolved into a mixed bag of older, health-conscious women, new moms and younger, race-oriented walkers. FISHING * 15 percent Fishing isn’t just for craggy, weatherbeaten men anymore. Women are hooked. The pastime appeals to all socioeconomic groups, includ- 9 ing the wealthy. Resorts such as The Tincup Wilderness Lodge, a fly-in angling and wilderness getaway in the heart of the western Yukon, are capitalizing on this interest by hosting fly-fishing retreats for women. G, RUSSELL UNDERWOOD/CORBIS; RUSSELL G, FREE WEIGHTS/CIRCUIT TRAINING PANNELL/CORBIS TIM GOLFING, EIN/CORBIS; * 15 percent Kinder, gentler fitness programs are gaining in popularity, but health clubs don’t have to worry about an exodus to the yoga mat or 10 Pilates table. The $12 billion health club industry attracts more than 30 million members. But the need for comfortable, stylish work- outwear still hasn’t been fully addressed. HIKING/BACKPACKING 11 percent Adventure travelers represent the fastest-growing segment of the $447 billion leisure travel market, according to the Travel Industry 11 Association. Of course, scaling Mount Everest isn’t everyone’s idea of fun. Still, those with boots on their feet and packs on their backs can be outfitted in performance-oriented gear. GOLF * 7 percent Women represent 24 percent of adult golfers who play at least one round a year, or 6.1 million, according to the National Golf Foundation. 12 This seems to indicate an opportunity for a fashion company to do for golf what Prada Sport and Chanel have done for skiing.

TEAM SPORTS (SOFTBALL, SOCCER, ETC.) * 7 percent It’s not just a “guy thing.” There are drop-in basketball games for women across the country, and the National Football League has devel- 13 oped a Web site, NFL for Her. According to a poll by Oppenheimer Funds and its parent Mass Mutual Financial Group, 81 percent of suc- cessful women business executives played organized team sports growing up and said the experience helped them develop leadership skills. POWER BOATING 6 percent According to a national survey by the Recreational Boating and Fishing Foundation, more than 55 percent of Americans have gone boat- 14 ing in the last two years. Bring on the sunscreen.

IN-LINE SKATING 5 percent Sales of in-line skates may have peaked in 1996, but the sport is still a great way to burn calories. The majority of in-line skaters are 15 women, according to the Sporting Goods Manufacturing Association. States with the most in-line skaters are California and New York. GARDENING, JOGGING, FISHING, BICYCLING, CAMPING, WEIGHTS, BOATING, PHOTOGRAPHY AND TEAM SPORT PHOTOS COURTESY OF CORBIS; BOWLIN CORBIS; OF COURTESY PHOTOS SPORT TEAM AND PHOTOGRAPHY BOATING, WEIGHTS, CAMPING, BICYCLING, FISHING, JOGGING, GARDENING, SWIMMING, DUOMO/CORBIS; EDUCATION, JOHN HENLEY PHOTOGRAPHY/CORBIS; HIKING, PETE SALOUTOS/CORBIS; IN-LINE SKATING, DAVID STOECKL DAVID SKATING, IN-LINE SALOUTOS/CORBIS; PETE HIKING, PHOTOGRAPHY/CORBIS; HENLEY JOHN EDUCATION, DUOMO/CORBIS; SWIMMING, SOURCE: SCARBOROUGH RESEARCH; * INDICATES THE SAME PERCENTAGE, IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER. Flash Covering junior, denim and urban 6X a year Next Section II: April 10 Close: March 27

Including a comprehensive -up of the Teens & Tweens conference – the industry’s annual meeting of the minds. Saved and referred to throughout the year by anyone involved in trying to reach the teens and tweens market.

For more information contact Ralph Erardy, Senior VP, Group Publisher at 212/630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 16 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2003 t raes o u Aeia, o Fec. oet Duffy, Robert French. not American, buy to readers its onto herbody.model withaweasel’s headgrafted Iturged Chanel-wearing a Yorkof New photo a The ran Tuesday like on which tabloids Post, is by movement U.S. the pro-boycott in the fueled But being yet. it of evidence tle tives saidtheyhopeitdoesn’t happen—andhaveseen lit- affordable.” are and moment, a for outlook well, even if the war goes on. They can change a person’s Sixties. the in jeans by played role a sentiment, antiwar express to styles and ning conflict would spark the development of certain items long-run- a thinks also Gobe mainstream.” the from selves be will they motivated tomakeastatement;differentiatethem- think very I and war, of the against percent are 30 Americans “About here. gobe, desgrippes consultant image brand of director creative with and ceo president, Gobe, “Fashion Marc now,”noted Sixties. right well very the doing is graphics in peace War the during did it as much — war the on viewpoint one’s express to let however. many other categories, they theorized, by engagement, providing an out- than lengthy better do could thing, one a for Fashionmerchandise, during degree, same we day next the and have anincredibleday. sales Noone knowshowtodealwithit.” no have we day “One Curve. the mood of her clients at West Hollywood, Calif., boutique wait-and-see.” all it’s point, this at but accessories, and cosmetics like items with buys impulse feel-good more be probably will “There Bendel. Henri spending,” at the manager general and president vice Burstell, in Ed said shift a least at some or be slowdown, will natural there that reasonable only it’s but ously, they because place away.consumers scare might in measures security and higher put buildings to apartment reluctant over are owners mall that target concern was there trains, “soft” a as pose might malls regional that belief a is there While attacks. terrorist for potential the of light in security mall on call plans.’” ‘business affecting or plans’ spending and ‘hiring either were war/terrorism’ about ‘concerns or tainties’ uncer- ‘geopolitical that indicated respondents of percent 40 Council, Business the Fedand Philadelphia the by veys sur- business “In Monday: on report advisory economic an more. or months three for on as long as a month, and 33 percent anticipate it would go it will end in a week, or less; 24 percent said it might last a month or less, ARG found, as 43 percent said they think was War.Gulf the during Americans of posture percent 12 by taken that comparison, By when shopping. commodities go on do they focus and home, at stay marily pri- less; shop or shopping, stop likely most they’d Iraq, with war a during that, said week last Group Research the during Gulf War, than TV becausetheybelievemoreisatstakethistime.” on it Americans watching home staying “More be will S.C. Charleston, in based consultant man at America’s Research Group, a consumer marketing Beemer,Britt C. projected days,” chair- four or three first brutal. be could days few first the for spending uncertainty.”the to preferable be would resolution “Any Sole. De Domenico chief Group Gucci said worst,” consumers. Eastern Middle and European French products in the U.S. and of American products by of boycotts of rumblings be to continue There world. the market and on relations goods between America and the luxury rest of still-struggling the on have might conflict weeks. several by Homme Dior for shoot campaign fall his postponing Slimane Hedi like designers with ways, growing The conflict. untold in havoc wreaking already is travel the to reluctance with cope to arrangements sourcing examining and budgets advertising reviewing celebrations onSunday. their down tone Vanityto Fair,plans revealed have also one page from Continued Industry Industry Feels Weight of Unknown “ preferable to the uncertainty.the to preferable be would resolution Any worst. the is uncertainty business, s o te osblt o pout octs ms execu- most boycotts, product of possibility the for As In addition, Gobe projected, “Beauty products will do do Observers not think all products would be hurt to the expressed Borissova Nevena owner how is “Confused” obvi- time, a at day one it taking we’re point, “Atthis Last week, Salomon Smith Barney hosted a conference Harris, chief economist at Maury UBS Warburg, noted in Most AmericansbelieveawarwithIraqwouldendin America’s by polled adults of percent 26.2 Indeed, the for least at “You’ll— standstill a to come retail see No matterhowlongawarlasts,though,theeffectson the is uncertainty business, for that believe really “I the impact what wondered executives term, Longer Elsewhere, companies were rearranging travel plans, I really believe that for that believe really I — Domenico De Sole, Gucci Group ” businesses and citizens prepare for war.for prepare citizens and businesses as clogged become have Iraq, borders ,which ern ian vehicles around Iraq. For example, highways in south- slowed as a result of the heavy traffic and of civil- military has the speed with which cargo travels through the region that reported sources Shipping have up. crop to begun already problems mundane more executives, shipping for for sales apparel of N.J. Madison, of Sealand, Maersk director Moore, Brian said ,” shippers. to on charges increased those pass to have ly like- would they said executives Shipping more. or cent that thecostofinsuringcargocouldbehikedby100per- war.a of start the after hours 48 within cargo insuring of cost the hiking dramatically be they’d that week this early warn to began companies insurance However,major Iraq. in war a of event the in dates delivery meet to continue to try and freight reroute to place in plans contingency have conditions.” current with accordance in cies security and safety information and will our modify poli- latest very the with up keeping “Weare said. he trips,” our need to be than more usual conservative in planning and situations security and health both regarding ness East. Middle the to travel no is There critical.” “business and domestic both international travel to a minimum and only if keeping it’s deemed was also company his said colleagues and the people over there were frightened.” very business with China in ago weeks two away was “I planes. how skepticalexecutives arebecomingaboutgettingonair- two again. postponed be should trip the whether deciding another for off it put for weeks.” Jassin said he’s waiting have to leave see what happens before and to week, supposed next was London I travel. plane about con- are cerned executives how about hearing “I’m said, Group, out.” plays situation this how see we until traveling no be is noonetravelingatthistimeandwehavesaidtherewill “Basically,there said, Wednesday,spokeswoman by a but travel was not mandatory, leaving the option open to them, business any that employees advised firm, LVMH another anyway.”much so traveling be to don’t probably need we out find we’ll that long so for overseas factories our with We’reWe’vebeing. time the for tight sit just to going worked andI’mmostlyconcernedwithmystaff. nervous is justvery and everything seems to be all right in our stores. Everybody said. he fax, and e-mail by possible as much as cel anytravelplannedforthenextfewweeksandtowork can- to employees its told has company The home. return to employees company’s the of Tuesday,last on the Paris York from New to returned Jacobs Marc of Duffy plans. backup develop Wednesdayto rushing floor,was shop to from.” come they country the about are they as — Chanel Coco i.e., — founder the about much we as are they that found brands, fashion French for As brands. American love not theMiddleEast.“Ourresearchshowedthatconsumers but , and Turkey, including countries, 41 covered research badly.The political behave origin of countries out their if separate care don’t and — buy they brands the generally from actions consumers that found it said globalization, facing issues the and brands modern of perceptions global into survey consumer a published ly recent- that company research market qualitative national local are those that citizens.” local hurting are they franchises; is realize don’t people billion 1.2 East because of a boycott,” Gobe said. “What the region’s products. Middle American the in percent 80 down is business against “McDonald’s abroad backlash greater even an create could war the against movement growing the — flipside a there’s But predicted. Gobe term, short French,sounds don’tit.” it they want because “No parties. the identify Perrier and no Evian. Clos du Bois is a California wine but to declining said, she cotted,” boy- waters had even “I’ve wines. French boycotted have events and parties — some Oscar related — said customers week’s this of Westseveral in supplying shop Angeles, Los Iraq. in action tary following mili- pursuing from brands U.S. the dissuade Frenchto France’sefforts against by rallying affected materially Americans not least at or strong, been have my it.” over of Get friends. our are They businesses. many French in how stock own over friends American get can’t “I saying, “ridiculous,” as talk such Vuitton,labeled Louis Hennessy Moët LVMH president of Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by n h dmsi txie nuty eeuie reported executives industry, textile domestic the In While the outright destruction of cargo is a big concern don’t have any numbers, but I assume this will hap- “I indicated have press financial the in reports Some they said East Middle the serving carriers ocean Major aware- of level increased generally a reflects “This Paul Charron, chairman and ceo of Liz Claiborne, Inc., about more and more hearing been he’s that noted He Andrew V. Jassin,managingdirectoratJassin-O’Rourke International, Karan Donna ago, weeks two About Japan, in closely very business the monitoring “We’re But thefashionindustry, whichisglobalfromsourcing inter- the International, Research for spokeswoman A be to likely is Frenchproducts against backlash Any wine premier a Wally’s, of manager Litkin, Judi But VuittonLouis of sales that informed was he said Duffy on any reticence about Frenchabout reticence brands. any on he now,” climate the affecting while.” a for sputtering that’s been has economy “The added. war the only not as Pariswell as at duty-free concessions around the world. in “But it’s business denting flows, tourist reduced have Paris-based accessories firm, acknowledged that war fears said. he June,” and May in again up pick will business then and April until suffer we’ll think “I business. its of percent account 28 about for tourists American canceled. reservations had who Americans the of Sunday,half last since said hotel Paris. in and Monaco as abun- such destinations resort in dant are cancellations and high are hall. rates city vacancy from Hotel statistics recent most the to according ary, Janu- since percent 15 as much as and 2002, in percent 12.5 floors. main popular the on goods leather luxury — ing noon. Many Japanese tourists were inspecting — and buy- Boulevard Wednesdayafter- on on shoppers with teeming stores Haussmann department Lafayette Galeries and Printemps the with yet, of as activity retail on effect tourists. of lack a from suffer usual, even as businesses rein in travel and some sectors as continuing is far Milan so activity Tokyoconsumer and said London, Paris, in executives although America, fabric. imported of arrival the slow also could ports heightened, there is some concern that a slowdown at the advising Americans that the risk of terrorist attack is also government the With East. Middle the through or of out coming goods on delays possible for prepare importers as days recent in inquiries in pickup a seen they’ve that ger, and people did shopping domestically,” shopping ger,Sasaki. did said people and went up “because fewer people went abroad to avoid dan- from war.”the different from damage sustain will who those are women, young are which brands, the for consumers Major strong. stay will goods luxury for ket UFJ for mar- analyst Japanese Center.“The Research Sasaki, Economic Tsubasa Kana said war,” the in “Funda- damage luxuries. their suffer not will Japan in situation economic the want of mentals consumers nation’s the abroad.” spending their of loss the offsets totally never it do consumers Japanese tend to spend more at home levels. when they’re not traveling but 2000 at back not still it’s overall, but Hawaii, like places in recovery a of bit a saw are purchases those said. she this,” like time a during morally justify to harder because , and jewelry are war long a is there if most suffer to likely are that sectors The one. be could there — months several — longer it’s if less — there will be little impact goods on sales, luxury but or month one — war short a it’s if that “Wethink conflict. any of length the on depend will and stage this at estimate to hard is luxury and fashion on impact the said London, Korea.”North in situation the course possible of and Iraq] in war [a about worried at very “They’re accessories Sitbon. Martine for director Yannick commercial exhibitor Federici, said war,”Leleu the of because usual than but making yen every count. “They’re watching price more only U.S., the York,”New in in showroom our said. to she came three have we clients 20 the of “Out scarce. been had orders showroom, a has brand the where U.S., the in even that Vibertout Americans.” pointed any seen Maxime season,” line, said over the weekend at the difficult Tranoi fair. “We haven’t very Parisa Madame contemporary the a of Vibert,co-designer definitely “It’s ing. Europe. in Strauss Levi for spokesman a said Europe,” in anywhere boycotts any been there have nor sales on impact no seen we’ve ment, protest. consumer of signs seen Dupont, S.T. and consumers. American from backlash a experienced have Celine Lacroix, Christian including that noneofthefragrancebrandshiscompanyproduces, moment, and are affordable. are and moment, a for outlook person’s a change can They on. goes war the if even “ Philippe Benacin,presidentofInterParfums said SA, slowdown the blame to loathe also were Executives the Longchamps, of director general Cassegrain, Jean Athénée Plaza the of director Delahaye, François The number of American tourists visiting Paris was off by dampening major a had not has situation the Paris, In in is it as anxious as just was mood the Overseas, After the terrorist attack on Sept. 11, 2001, local sales local 2001, 11, Sept. on attack terrorist the After wartime, in even that, insisted Japan in executives But we quarter fourth the In anyway. great, isn’t“Tourism in Stanley Morgan analyst, goods luxury Kent, Claire Classe, Premiere at force in out were buyers Japanese encourag- as not is picture the side, wholesale the On senti- anti-American of reports are there “Although not they’ve say Europe in brands American Likewise, Beauty products will do well, do will products Beauty — Marc Gobe, desgrippes gobe W staff WWD — . ” 17 Hollywood Still Hopes for Glam THURSDAY,WWD, 2003 20, MARCH LOS ANGELES — “5,877 minutes to ternational business….Things are bad the increase of threats. “Last year, securi- and Julianne Moore and writers for the Hollywood’s Biggest Night” read the digi- enough, if we started boycotting French ty was unprecedented and this year, we’ll Oscar show were said to be furiously tal signboard at the entrance to the designs that would be worse. At least let’s surpass that,” said Lt. Horace Frank, rewriting Steve Martin’s script. Hollywood and Highland shopping cen- do our part to keep our business together.” LAPD’s head of media relations. Fashion watcher-favorites Joan and ter. As the “Star Wars” theme blared over Valentino’s Carlo Souza agreed. “It’s Among the security firsts this year are Melissa Rivers will broadcast their the loudspeaker, a group of 15 tourists ridiculous if there’s a boycott. When I sealing manhole covers around the scheduled two hour pre-show on E! “but readied to tour the Kodak Theatre. hear the comments on TV it really puts venue, stationing closed-circuit cameras we do not know where they will be But the Oscars won’t be the same this people in a panic. We Europeans have around the facility and on nearby high- broadcasting from,” said a spokesman. year. With red carpets being rolled up on been living with terrorists and bomb at- rise buildings, and taking random air- “It could be from the top of a hotel.” One Wednesday from the Academy Awards, to tacks for a long time.” At the Italian de- borne samples, in case anything unusual thing that may be changing is Rivers’ galas throughout town, the fashion world signer’s Rodeo salon, business went as is released into the air. In addition, on- planned show will be Joan’s wardrobe. was rushing to assess how the scaling usual. No appointments were canceled. lookers at the event will have to pass “She had ordered something and I’m as- back of so many photo-ops would affect “There have not been any requests for through metal detectors at two as-yet-un- suming she’ll change according to the their businesses. demure dressing. Maybe, like during selected locations. Academy’s standards of what’s appropri- The Oscar red carpet is often dubbed World War II, this might be the time we Also on board is the 9th Civil Support ate,” he said. the biggest fashion show on earth, but need a lift. It’s all so unpredictable right Team from the National Guard, based in For the legion of photographers who the evening and the events leading up to now,” added Souza. Los Alamitos. Members of the unit have count the Oscars among the most lucra- it have become more than an opportunity As for the jewels to go with the , training in chemical, biological and radi- tive days of the year, the news is dire. to play dress up. Fashion houses, cosmet- Sunday night, as Oscar’s 75th anniver- ological attacks. Mario Anzuoni, a photographer for The ic companies and the media worldwide sary, was going to be a big one for dia- Precautions have continued to build New York Post, said that established invest millions in the week, knowing that monds. The stone is still around, but in a up leading to the big day. Hollywood photographers stand to lose anywhere any coverage could ultimately translate smaller form. Boulevard between Orange Drive and from $10,000 to $50,000 by not shooting into sales and brand awareness long “It seems everyone is scurrying to Highland Avenue has been closed to all Oscar arrivals. Tech staff earn daily rates after the televised event, which is seen have a backup plan,” said Jay Carlisle for traffic except city buses since Monday from $500 to $2,000 and film messengers by over a billion viewers. Martin Katz. “I hear that the major ac- night. Officials are tightening up security about $200 for Oscar night. Freelance Cancellations filtering throughout tresses are still going ahead with their along the Awards Walk path of the out- photographers, who use their Oscar ac- Wednesday from attendees such as plans. One major movie star was commit- door mall, leading up to the Kodak cess to get jobs from other publications, Angelina Jolie and Cate Blanchett, who ted to a long diamond chain and major Theatre and home to about 20 stores. come away empty-handed since they was set to be a presenter, had the fashion of ours, but I don’t think that Officers from the FBI and LAPD will do don’t get paid unless they sell images. and Hollywood communities here won- will happen now.” a sweep of those stores for security clear- The flock of celebrity and pop culture dering whether the Academy Awards weeklies are all still moving forward would air at all on Sunday. If they’re Wednesday afternoon with plans for Oscar covers, but contin- postponed, it wouldn’t be the first time. at the Kodak Theatre. gency plans have quietly been assembled The awards have been delayed three in case the nation is at war when they times in the past: in 1938 because of close their issues next week. floods in the Los Angeles area, in 1968 “We were always planning around the because of Martin Luther King’s assassi- possibility of war,” said People manag- nation, and in 1981 because President ing editor Martha Nelson. “When we Reagan was shot that day. heard the news that the red carpet was For those stars still going, stylists going to be cut and that war seemed im- were scrambling all over town Pearls, like these from Artore, are minent, we came up with five different Wednesday to have a plan A (all out) and contingency plans that range from the Teams were fast becoming the alternative to plan B (cocktail attire) for their clients. diamonds at this Sunday’s event. Ocars going on Sunday to them being One observer said stores’ telephones removing the postponed. But if they’re postponed, the were ringing off the hook with calls from red carpet and news event [i.e. the war or a possible ter- stylists demanding more toned-down en- bleachers rorist attack] will become the cover. This sembles. Suddenly the $2.2 million dress Wednesday. is a news organization and we know how — covered in 450 karats of colored dia- to respond.” monds designed by Oscar newcomer Should the show go on, Nelson said, Randi Rahm and jewelry designer there could be “some opportunity to pho- Stefan Hafner was suddenly out of style. tograph people,” though it will not be the And Stuart Weitzman announced at his same as having unfettered access. “I ex- dinner Tuesday night that his ruby and pect the academy will be servicing us in platinum worth $1.3 million some limited way. People will get some- would be saved for another occasion. thing they can use, though it probably “I feel comatose, wondering ‘What won’t be a lot of exclusive coverage. This should I do?’ This is my livelihood,” said may be a night where very little is exclu- Blanchett’s stylist Jessica Paster. “People sive. It’s an important night for us, but are going to be more somber. For Nia world events are unfolding that are of Security Vardalos we may go black, and I haven’t Security greater significance. We have to keep yet spoken to Marcia Gay Harden. But has been this in perspective.” I’m not in the mood to go running around tight all Bonnie Fuller of US Weekly said that looking for the best and a shiney week should the ceremony be postponed, she piece of jewelry. I wish every girl of mine around the will run a celebrity profile as the cover who’s going would turn around and say, Kodak story instead. Fashion coverage, she said, OTOS BY TYLER BOYE AND DONATO SARDELLA DONATO AND BOYE TYLER BY OTOS H

‘I’m not going,’ but I already got one Theatre. P is already being given less page space be- phone call from someone wanting some- cause of the red-carpet situation. “Obv- thing fabulous.” Paster said that for DeBeers spokeswoman Joan Parker ances Friday evening and close them off iously fashion coverage has been a domi- clients with whom she has a close rela- agreed. “I think people will now think to retailers and shoppers Saturday and nant part of Oscar coverage over the last tionship, she’s advising them to tone twice about wearing big, big — Sunday. The entire complex will be 10 years,” Fuller said. “But these are not down. “Most women are down with that.” but they don’t have time to change their closed Sunday. ordinary times, and they understandably But, for now, it appears most major at- dresses. But we have Iman coming and “We’re taking our lead from the call for different measures.” tendees won’t change direction with their wearing jewelry to events.” Academy,” said LeeAnne Stables, the In Touch Weekly executive editor choice of dress for Oscar Sunday. “It’s a lit- Others remain hopeful, however. “We center’s chief marketing officer, noting Stephen LeGrice said his magazine was tle late,” said Kate Young, stylist for nomi- brought out a showstopping 75th collec- the center didn’t close the Awards Walk prepared for a postponement, should one nee Salma Hayek and presenter Jennifer tion, as well as classic studs and dia- on Saturday last year. happen, but otherwise would cover the Connelly. “I’m sitting in a fitting with mond drops,” said Carol Brodie Gelles, ABC continues to insist that the cere- Oscars without mention of the war and Jennifer right now. Plus I think it’s waste- global director of communications for mony will air in its time slot, but even if its chilling effect on the festivities. “I ful for people to trash dresses that cost a Harry Winston. “Now I think we’ll see developments in Iraq force the network think we’re going to be more interested fortune to make in favor of a simpler dress more understated elegance than over- to air part of the ceremony on tape delay in what there is than what there isn’t,” he that has to be made anyway. lf it seems in- the-top glamour. I absolutely believe or should the Academy postpone them al- said. “People are still going to want to appropriate to wear a nice dress, it’s even there will be jewels on the red carpet. together, ABC’s advertisers are along for know what went down.” more inappropriate to trash one.” They’ll just be toned down.” the ride. “We’re committed to being in As for those all-important after-Oscars New York Times creative director Interest in anything other than dia- the Oscars, and if they move to tape events, those were being rejigged as well. Elizabeth Stewart, who was setting out to monds, in fact, was already rising mid- delay or move the time, we’ll move with Any hopes that Vanity Fair’s Oscar party scope out showrooms on Wednesday, Wednesday. Despite light overall traffic them,” said a spokesman for General could provide the jolt of glamour likely said, “Obviously, I want Calista Flockhart at Le Meridian Hotel, the new OscarMart Motors’ Cadillac division. “That’s the to be missing before the ceremony have to be dressed appropriately, so I will ab- this year, ’s Artore was seeing agreement we have with ABC, and I be- been dashed by the magazine’s decision solutely be keeping my eyes open for two great interest in its South Sea pearls. “I lieve all the other advertisers have the to freeze out the press. “We’re following options. I have heard that Marc Jacobs is thought because of the anniversary that same agreement.” the lead of the Academy, which means getting a lot of requests for their spring it would be a huge challenge for us to get Other companies that paid as much as we will have no red carpet, no broadcast cocktail dresses. Personally, I think they people to consider,” said spokeswoman $1.3 million for their 30-second spots and and no photographers,” said a magazine should postpone the show. Just by chang- Christine Bookallil, “but we had a big are sticking with them include: spokeswoman. “We will have our own ing a dress from short to long doesn’t surprise this morning when all these styl- Mastercard, American Express, Wash- photographers inside, but we will not change anything.” ists started coming in asking for pearls.” ington Mutual and Anheuser-Busch. service anyone. It’s going to be a more As far as the patriotic sentiment ex- Those still in attendance will be enter- But ABC postponed Barbara Walters’ muted affair, more low-key, and we’re not tending to the provenance of the gowns, ing the Fort Knox of security, according to annual interview special scheduled to doing any press.” Stewart said, “I think fashion is such an in- officials who are pulling out all stops with feature Nicolas Cage, Renée Zellweger — WWD staff 18 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2003 Prime ManhattanJon212-268-8043 ls ulcts atrs ulservice Full shop tothetrade.Finefast work. patterns. duplicates, ples, Sam- productions. small in Specializing E-mail China. in zhang for moreinfo: Mfr. approved Jones eve- for Ideal ning, subleasin entrance. is Separate space. house ½ Bridal Fl.; 2nd 70’s; rcwtros opr,Kohl’s Coopers, Pricewaterhouse 24FT W,75FTD.READYFORMOVE 14-59 St/Mad-9Ave.;1500-10000SqFt&up buttons, beadsandtrims.212-243-4913 All lines,Anystyles.FineFastService. 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Y x f o nbs ed toganalytical Strong reqd. bus. skills &Excelproficiency. in Bache- allocation. & lor SKU Perform investment in & targets. turns. segments, inventory margin bus. exp. of maximizing gross analysis for & yrs. Resp. re- plans, inventory/ 5+ / ceipt sales OTB, managing devel. w/ & incl. Duties indiv. planning/allocation. clothing children’s in seeks & op. retail/whsle men’s a women’s, Barth, St. Calypso production dressmaking. & and industry experience. Minimum 5years first tailoring patterns, in Specializing production dressmaking. & and industry experience. Minimum 5years first tailoring patterns, in Specializing rudhlfl ntbcgon man- datory. Includesalaryrequirements. background price Knit helpful. product, ground back- Woven/knit achieve essential. to quality and world region proper the identify of to ability of global- and markets ly, knowledge knit circular and garments, yarns evaluating costing in price Expertise moderate and must. at immediate knits a sew points & an cut sweaters and in has background dresses Solid in opening. sportswear, leader a Co., and Fay Leslie The complete knit as well of our as knowledge ofgarmentconstruction. handling fabrics should woven in join and Candidate knowledge to have team. label Patternmaker Production private highly and seeks skilled Mfr label sportswear moderate known Well to fittings from (Excel/Word) skills are amust.Faxresumeto: in prod. exp’d Computer skilled daily of be costing. and aspects Must wovens with all and Orient. prod. knits the with bulk to comm. to from prod sampling garment oriented coordinate to detailed indiv. seeks apparel signer de- women’s of Importer/Manufacturer attrac- years. woven 5 Min. & tive salary/benefits.Fax: exp. Q/C knitwear & prod’n Thorough Shanghai w/our office. communicate computer to & skills indiv. admin, seeks organiz’l, w/superior importer contemp. Est’d. growth Excellent plus. opportunity. FaxMichael: a store skills dept. experience Target must. Cmputer a (Excel/Word) Manager. with production on overseas up developments years follow day-to-day 1-3 to of experience minimum production with motivated player and team organized N.Y.C. highly in Co. seeks Outerwear established Well must. 212-244-3925 x2. a experience Fax resumeto212-714-1296orcall: Overseas eveningwear dresses. with experience years 2-4 or color 1-212-221-7064 @ great Send Cathy email [email protected] must. to have a be resume experience & Must Excel line. sense. doing oriented 4-16 placement girls detail w/design & for embroidery approvals directly trim, print, work Will PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Production Coordinator Manager Sweaters/Cut PHILADELPHIA JOBS

To placeoverseasorders&followup. [email protected] Call212-947-3400 Production Associate PATTERNMAKER &SAMPLEMAKER PATTERNMAKER &SAMPLEMAKER nld rdcino eua lo-e n rvlt ri tr personnel store train to travel and floor-set on merchandisingandsellingtechniques.PleaseFaxorE-mailresumeto: regular responsibilities a Additional of essential. Excellent production are manner. include skills upbeat communication concise, oral thorough, & written a clear in a stores communicate metro and strategyto York execute, visual New conceptualize, the to is for Primaryfocus Merchandiser area. Visual currently experienced is locations an 500 for over searching with stores trendyspecialtyapparel of Chain Production Assistant Production Sourcing Please faxresumeto212-302-4193 Strong comm.&computerskills. [email protected] PATTERNMAKER Planner/Allocator COORDINATOR Fax resumeto: Fax resumeto: Production Asst [email protected] PRODUCTION PRODUCTION PROD’N PATMKR$60K 732-380-0157 /[email protected] & SewKnits 212-398-9775 Fax:212-382-1916 fax 212-221-4245 No Agencies Visual Merchandiser EEO 212-921-2850 212-921-2850 212-704-0232 212-378-5525 omn.Bodbsdkoldeo knowledge envi- design based technical Broad a 3-5 ronment. in and fashion exp. required years equivalent in or Bachelors design preferred. experi- woven ence and Knit through. follow v A Computer needed. skills amust! experience years 3 experi- seeking is enced salesprofessional. Company Textile on fprhs aeil.Strong materials. and purchase w promotions of 5 unique, point displays, of developing Ideal minimum experience inspiring a merchandiser. have years experi- will an visual candidate for looking north- is enced in based Virginia chain ern salon unit Multi o opportunity knowledge Great for therightperson!Sendresumeto: required. & product skills, com- U.S. have strong & major munication follow-up, with Great sourcing, Must new record retailers. track fabric development. proven build action, product & & with with time with exp. Need accounts relationships. revenue customer directly increase Work existing to manage President base. to seeks account factory executive label sales-oriented private High-end fittings compensation andbenefits patterns, specs, person seeks co w apparel children’s Large Excel factories. e-mailing and Wordknowledgealsoneeded. to and overseas with specs, comments experience is grading have Technical dresses fittings, knowledge, Must bias chiffon required. silk experience. construction especially with yrs individual garment 3 and seeks dress min. co better ladies sportswear growing Fast literate. computer A be Must showroom. 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Level Designer Sr. a nical a has Boston, for of opportunity Shore great North the on co. uthv xeln nweg o knowledge excellent have Must Apparel Staffin Technical Designer-Senio VICE PRESIDENT-100K+Bonus TechnicalDesigner Fax resumetoJeffat212-471-8024or SPEC TECHNICIANS Bkgrd inC&SKnits&Sweaters-MjrCo VISUAL MERCHANDISER QUALITY CONTROL nosfrMrhniigTa.Ex- Team. Merchandising for endors Production Assistant xesv xeinew asretailers mass w/ experience extensive / peeds oe’ pae catalog apparel women’s a ppleseed’s, ll benefits. itnadoa omncto skills communication oral and ritten Please faxresumeto:212-563-7484 Showroom Assistant l-raie,mlits oriented, multi-task ell-organized, Call 212-840-1055Fax212-840-5587 Fax resumeto:212-279-6817 Email allwa j [email protected] or JLod ferrara@ferraramf All-Ways SportswearLtd SPEC TECH/ Via fax:(978)922-7001 Sales Person g [email protected] Senior g, Ltd.Fax(212)302-1161 EOE y [email protected] package. t.Excellen etc. g .com A Y r f f f f t . WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2003- 19 .** y 866-204-8412 T: 212-876-2899 Couture Sales-Management Retail/Showroom Sales Pro client list. Polished appearance. ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** Excellent Experience with strong Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc High Comm./All Territories High Comm./All Contemporary missy line Call Must have contacts. Sales Rep wtd. Seeksloungewear showroom and daywear.tacts sales, Strong with con- Dept.,Chain stores. Call John: 516-536-8576. sleepwear, Specialty and Major TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? Girls’ 4-16 Sportswear Sales Help! 212-736-5839 position of interest to: SALES ASSISTANT [email protected] KNIGHT APPAREL KNIGHT APPAREL [email protected] is seeking looking for talented is seeking looking SALES PROFESSIONAL Salary commensurate with exp. Salary commensurate Please email resume indicating Account Executive home of Tapemeasure & Palmetto’s home of Tapemeasure RAMPAGE is seeking an experiencedExecutive Account to open new doors,cificallywith spe- MayCo.,etc. Dillards, At leastrequired. Please 2 Fax yearsresumes to Bill Valley at: or experience E-mail all Seeking exp’d,person for aggressive Junior/Young Mensstrong with sales dept./chain andrelationships. mass store BrandLabel skills needed. & Private Wanted:detail ambitious, oriented person.of Wal-Mart & Retail Link a plus. Knowledge organized, seeking experi- based in New York Walter EOE/M/F/D/V (212) 921-1076 contemporary leader Private Label attn: President of Sales Fax Resume to 212-391-2485 Excellent salary and benefits. Better Contemporary Sportwear Excellent opportunity to join today’s Sr. Account Executive omen’s sportswear/apparel co. seeks ell versed in better specialty stores as ell as better department stores. Com- Sportswear Sales Please fax resume: 212-764-6912 opportunity for Sr. Account Executive. SENIOR SALES EXEC strong salesyrs. person. sales Minimum exp. Mustgood people skills. Please fax resume: of be organized, 3-5 with petitive compensationpackage. [email protected] to (212) 930-9103. E-mail or benefits Fax resumes to Zen Sport by Danskin enced saleslead manager.strategize Will business field growth. Must direct beergetic, en- organized, & salesskills, w/strong and follow-up willing force, tow travel. Have tow plan, be & W s to for

323-837-6188 @ (609) 895-1113 [email protected]. y a thorough understanding of seasonal plans, be proficient SR. SALES EXECUTIVE SR. SALES 212-944-0898 hert g (212) 354-9155 SALES PHILADELPHIA SALES PRO K. Dou Fax resume to 212-768-7773 y EASTERN SILK MILLS, INC. Please fax resume: 908-351-9433 Authentic Fitness Corp., aa leading swimwear high-energy, company, is motivated,handling currently department seeking and store business. organized Candidate individual will be with experience in in retail math,skills. and An possess exciting opportunityto strong and salary requirements to: Fax or E-mail resume join customer a service rapidlygrowing company.Please and management e offer salary + commission. FT/PT Management. Self-motivated, NICOLE MILLER Mar and must have professional, exp’d in retail sales only. Private Label Sales Pro Salary + commission. Pls. fax resume Sales Executive (LA & NY) the highly motivated. Fax resume to: Established trendysweater and moderate sportswearaggressive company seeks junior salespersonshowroom. Experienced for selling toand Chain our Dept. stores. N.Y. Great opportunity Established silk importer2 & mfr candidates seeks tiles. Energetic, with motivated experienceto individuals work in in tex- W our L.A. & N.Y. showroom. Excellent opportunity tocontemporary join sportswear a house.candidate better Ideal muststore have strong following,be a self-starter. Company benefits! specialty be goal oriented and Est’d. Mfr. is seekingLabel an Acctount Exp’d. Exec. Private Strongtionships store and rela- following aprovide must. design, We mfg., can and technical service strong management.tunity Great for oppor- theFax resume to: right individual. Please RETAIL SALES 212-730-0101 Sales Assistant G.A.S. CO. EVERLAST Please forward resumes to: WORLDWIDE INC. ord & E-mail knowledge a must. Fax resume to Donald 212-382-2549. ery fast paced environment. Excel, Knit & Woven Tops Ladies’/Missy/Petite/Large Sizes [email protected] or fax: 212-239-4261. Leading brandeddetail company orientedorganizational seeks & communication person skills to a with assistadministatrative strong the duties.dle sales Able multiple tasks to team and han- in work well a in daily a v W Seeking Sales ProMust for have strong N.Y. dept./chain showroom. storetacts. For appt., call: con- Leading knitsboth import and andexp, domestic co junior aggressive seekssalesperson an sweater sweaters withMay and/or Co, Dept strongrelationships. store knit and Candidate specialty Federated, mustorganized store be and detail well package commensurate with exp. oriented. Salary 30K plus benefits. ’ E , the fast growing Palm Beach inspired , the fast growing Palm Beach faxed to (212) 391-9167. @ 212-221-0912 è y 4 to 6 years of major store experience. resume and other pertinent information to resume and other pertinent information Key Account Sales Associate EOE/M/F/D/V @GersonandGerson.com y [email protected]. Resumes can also be [email protected]. Resumes Interested Lilly loving candidates should email their Interested Lilly loving candidates Lilly Pulitzer York based position requires strong analytical skills and York based position requires strong Major Store Key Account Sales Associate to manage and Major Store Key Account Sales ACCOUNT EXEC Collection of Women’s and Children’s products, is seeking a Collection of Women’s and Children’s develop the company’s major store account base. This New develop the company’s major Kevin.Gra Call Steve or Vinn Domestic Tops & Bottoms

Jr. to Plus& size bottoms, women’s established domesticsalesperson with 2+ million. 25 tops years, seeks Gerson & Gerson, Inc.,Jean maker of & Bonnie Bonnieseeks an Baby enthusiastic, girls’seller growth-oriented dresswear, to join ourdepartment team. stores, Experience familiarity with ready of to girls wear,& a strong working computerare all a plus. Please e-mail resume to: knowledge skills of retail math ACCOUNT EXECUTIV Danskin, Inc., welled established active apparel brand- opening co for has experienced an Accountutive Exec- immediate to develop newally. territories nation- Strongreq. dept Active storesMust have wear background strong retailcount experience planning & management a ac- New skills. plus. Competitive Based compensation &package. York. in benefits [email protected] to (212) 930-9103. Travel E-mail or Fax is resumes req. to 20 Dominique Out of Gonzalez-Foerster Stuart David Bounds PARIS — Dominique Gonzalez- Foerster may be the artist Nicolas

WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, Ghesquière calls “the most inspiring eye® of her generation,” but she’s also one of the art world’s least pretentious has always defied easy definition. new stars. Perhaps the most widely known example of that While others chase celebrity, Gonzalez- spirit was the Annlee project, which was the sub- Foerster has opted for collaboration, regularly ject of an exhibition at the San Francisco Museum teaming up with French artist Philippe Parreno of Modern Art that closed this month. Initiated by or Pierre Huyghe, winner of last year’s presti- Huyghe and Parreno, Annlee was a simple manga gious Hugo Boss Prize. Japanese cartoon character lent to various artists Still, engrossed in a telephone conversation with — including Gonzalez-Foerster, Joe Scanlan and Stuart Says Huyghe, she doesn’t debate the theoretical intrica- Liam Gillick — who in turn created a narrative cies of their cutting-edge work, nor does she specu- around her. With each contribution, Annlee’s so- NEW YORK — He’s no Austin Powers, but Stuart David, novelist and former late on the state of the art market. They brainstorm called personality grew in complexity and depth, bassist for Belle & Sebastian, is certainly an international man of mystery. about where to go later for the best couscous. until she was destroyed. And the self-proclaimed hermit and Glaswegian author, whose debut novel, Having made a name on the international art scene “When I get together with someone like Pierre “Nalda Said,” will bow in the U.S. in April, is anything but the typical pop with complex work that explores how individuals or Philippe, it’s just more new information com- star. More like a Scottish J.D. Salinger, he lives in a remote house deep in relate to their environments, Gonzalez-Foerster is ing together,” she explains. “That exchange can be Scotland’s woods, married his wife after being pen pals for eight years, and an easygoing type who loves wearing Balenciaga. the beginning of something very interesting.” has never even met his own publicist, with whom he communicates by e- As well she should. The 37-year-old artist recent- Her work runs from fuzzy travel pictures to mail. Rumors circulated recently that he had disappeared altogether, fu- ly hooked up with Ghesquière to create Balenciaga films charting city landscapes, from an installation eled by cryptic messages left on his boutiques in Paris and New York. Their raw spaces Paris commissioned for its Bonne Nouvelle metro Web site, looper.info, chronicling his new band, Looper, which has since gone on hiatus. His haunting fairy tale, “Nalda Said,” was released in the U.K. in 1999 and has since been translated into six languages. The story follows a nameless, uneducated man whose se- cluded upbringing by his delusional, story-telling Aunt Nalda leaves him be- lieving he has a priceless jewel inside him that others want to possess. Suffering from the weight of his secret and an incurable shyness, he is un- able to form any human relationships for fear of being looted or possibly killed for his jewel. He runs away if anyone comes close. When he falls in love, the outcome is tragic. In 2001, David released another novel in the U.K., “The Peacock Manifesto,” whose main character, Peacock Johnson, some say, has become David’s real-life alter ego. WWD contacted this elusive author by e-mail and got to the bottom of what his publicist calls David’s “hermit schtick.” Well, almost. “Reperages Riyo,” a still from the WWD: “Nalda Said” reads like a fairy tale, yet it doesn’t have a happy ending. video, 1999. Why not? David: The main reason was to emphasize just how strongly he believed in bring together natural and synthetic landscapes stop to a box-like cement structure Gonzalez- what he’d been brought up to believe. To show just how deep rooted these and provide a radical shopping experience. Foerster erected in a park for an exhibit last year things are, and how hard they are to surmount. It also seemed to me to be Beneath images of moving skies spread across the in Kassel, Germany. It is not only her love of col- the truth of what would happen in that situation. I didn’t want to kid any- ceiling, the shop floor is filled with boulder-sized laboration, but the range of her work that makes body on. rocks and angular arrangements of steel, fiberglass the artist an intriguing figure on the art scene. and aluminum that call to mind the of “I guess you could call me a visual artist,” she WWD: Love is supposed to overcome anything — except, apparently, shyness Albert Frey, the Palm Springs modernist. explains. “But I’d prefer to be called a space artist. and paranoia. What is the main character’s incurable disease? In fact, the shops were inspired by a trip to You see, my thing is space, which is constantly David: I think that love can overcome anything, but I also think that to a California, where the artist trekked through Palm changing by the way people interact with it.” certain extent, it’s temporary. Falling in love as an adult often shows you Springs and Death Valley, finding fodder in the In any case, Gonzalez-Foerster has no intention how things can be, and for a period you can live that way. barren topography, the endless blue sky — and of pinning herself down. “I’d feel imprisoned if I Frey’s distinctive structures. stuck to one style,” she says. “Having a signature WWD: There are rumors that you’ve disappeared. Have you? “The contrast between desolation and drama in style, which is the big thing in the art market right David: That was all to do with my most recently published novel, “The the landscape there is amazing,” says Gonzalez- now, isn’t my thing. I focus on process rather than Peacock Manifesto.” I continued the narrative of it beyond the end of the Foerster. “The relation between the landscape and product. I can explore the notion of space as equally book, trying to use some nontraditional ways of telling the story — like the architecture, and the way it fits into the landscape in a film as in a shop. Each new format is a new op- press and the Internet, and live events. And then we carried the characters to create an atmosphere, was very interesting.” portunity to be an artist, to enlarge the vocabulary. on through into the last Looper album a bit, too. It is unusual for an artist so freely to cross the “Hybrid,” she concludes, “is the most interesting line separating the rarified worlds of the gallery thing.” WWD: How do you compare to the reclusive character in “Nalda Said”? and the boutique, but Gonzalez-Foerster’s work — Robert Murphy David: What I often do with my characters is just magnify some aspects of my own personality, and then totally disregard others, and then put that into a situation and see what would happen. I have my own shyness and my own paranoia, I think. But it’s just a case of how that’s balanced with Salt Shaker other things. While Lower East Side locals have been turning up at WWD: What purpose does Aunt Nalda serve in the story? Melissa O’Donnell’s new spot, Salt Bar, for the young David: I suppose the most obvious thing that Nalda represents would be chef’s haute home-style cooking, they’re staying for the any form of organized belief system, that is passed on and not questioned. cocktails. Greg Seider works wonders behind the bar on Whether that be a belief in a particular political party, or in a particular or- Clinton Street, doing a “yin-yang thing,” says O’Donnell, ganized religion. Anything like that. I think everyone has had a Nalda-like shopping daily for fresh ingredients to spike his fabu- influence in their life. I think everyone believes certain things that whoever lously deadly concoctions. Take, for example, Seider’s brought them up passed on, that might not be particularly true. Raspberry Chamomile Martini. Here, the wicked recipe: WWD: What’s the moral of the story? 2 oz. Absolut Mandarin vodka The Salt Bar David: I wouldn’t say my outlook is bleak, but I think quite a brutal honesty 1 oz. chilled chamomile tea martini, and is required to overcome certain things. With ‘Nalda Said,’ it’s not so much 2 tbs. fresh raspberry puree bartender Greg me saying, ‘This is how things are,’ so much as, ‘This is what can happen.’ 2 tbs. fresh lime juice. Seider, left. I’d hope it’s more a cautionary tale than anything else. Shake the ingredients together and garnish with dried plum. — Alison Oneacre GONZALEZ-FOERSTER BY STEPHANE FEUGERE; DAVID COURTESY OF D.A.P. PUBLICITY; SALT BY J&A PHOTOGRAPHY J&A BY SALT PUBLICITY; D.A.P. OF COURTESY DAVID FEUGERE; STEPHANE BY GONZALEZ-FOERSTER