Bread Baking Demystified Bread Baking Is Shrouded in Mystery and Plagued by Misinformation and Myths

Home , Kneading, Yeast

Bread Baking Demystified Bread baking is shrouded in mystery and plagued by misinformation and myths. After years of kitchen testing, we’re ready to set the record straight. BY KEITH DRESSER

9 bread myths you shouldn’t believe

MYTH #1: Bread Flour Is Best prepared. Although a sponge does impart a great deal of s c i e n c e : Autolyse Fact: All-Purpose Flour flavor to rustic breads, it isn’t necessary with higher-fat Autolyse (pronounced AUTO-lees) is a technique Is Fine We have found that loaf breads, for which all of the ingredients are usually in which bread ingredients are briefly mixed and unbleached all-purpose flour is the just combined in a bowl. allowed to rest before kneading. This gives bread best choice in most bread recipes. more flavor and better texture. Bread flour (which has more pro- MYTH #6: Hand-Kneading Is Better so how does autolyse work? When water and tein than all-purpose) is necessary Fact: You Should Use a Standing Mixer flour are combined, gluten forms in a random, dis- only for rustic breads with a really In the test kitchen, kneading in a standing mixer is the organized matrix that is very weak. As the dough sturdy crumb and thick crust. technique of choice. (Use the paddle attachment to is kneaded, the disorganized bonds are pulled combine ingredients, then switch to the dough hook apart and reattached into straight, strong, orderly MYTH #2: Tap Water Is Fine to knead.) This method ensures that we don’t add sheets. This must occur in order to give bread Fact: Bottled Water Is Best too much flour to the dough (which can happen with proper structure. Water from the tap can contain many hand-kneading and leads to dry, tough loaves). A stand- But excessive kneading can lead to flavor loss. minerals and additives that adversely ing mixer is especially suited for kneading wet or sticky The autolyse step reduces kneading time by affect the flavor of bread. In our experi- dough. Once dough is kneaded, it may require a brief allowing enzymes in the dough to break down ence, bread made with bottled water has kneading by hand on the counter to form a cohesive ball. disorganized bonds of gluten. Autolyse helps the a sweeter, fuller flavor than bread made gluten form a stronger, more organized network with tap water. If your tap water has an MYTH #7: You Can’t Overknead with less kneading. off taste or is particularly hard or soft, we Fact: Too Much Kneading Leads recommend using bottled water. to Flavor Loss Many bakers assume that the MYTH #9: Baked Bread Will Sound Hollow MYTH #3: Salt Is Optional longer you knead bread, Fact: Thermometers Don’t Lie Many recipes Fact: Salt Is Essential If salt the better. However, instruct the baker to tap the bottom of the loaf to check comes in direct contact with yeast, prolonged kneading the bread’s doneness—if it sounds hollow, then it’s it will kill the yeast. Therefore, salt will overoxidize the done. We have found this technique to be inexact. In should be added to the dough after dough, which leads our experience, it is much better to use an instant-read the yeast has been mixed with the to flavor loss. When thermometer. Rustic breads should be baked to an in- flour. Because salt controls the activity properly kneaded, ternal temperature of 200 to 210 degrees, while richer of yeast, strengthens gluten, and ac- dough should have If properly kneaded, pinched breads are done at 190 to 195 degrees. cents the bread’s flavor, it should never be omitted. a smooth, almost portion of dough should spring shiny appearance. back into shape quickly. To test free- MYTH #4: Yeast Must If you pull the dough, it should feel very stretchy and form loaf, turn Be Proofed quickly spring back into place. bread over using oven mitt or potholder and Fact: Proofing Is insert thermometer through Unnecessary Older books tell MYTH #8: Rising Times Are Flexible bottom crust into center of loaf. you to sprinkle yeast over warm wa- Fact: Rising Times Should Be Followed ter and wait five minutes before pro- While there is some flexibility in the first rise (fer- ceeding. This process, called proofing mentation), we have found that it is important to pay the yeast, is no longer necessary. Our test kitchen relies close attention to the dough during the second rise To test bread baked in on instant yeast (also labeled rapid-rise yeast) and adds (proofing). If underproofed, there is a chance that the loaf pan, insert thermometer the yeast directly to the dry ingredients. dough will rise too much when baked, caus- from side, just ing splitting and tearing. above edge MYTH #5: Always Start with a Sponge If overproofed, the of loaf pan, Fact: Some Breads Don’t Require a dough may col- directing it at downward angle Sponge A sponge is made by mixing a portion of the lapse when baked. toward center of loaf. flour, water, and yeast before the dough is made.T his A reliable way to sponge (also called a biga test the dough’s or preferment) is then progress during proof- Go to www.cooksillustrated.com

PROPERLY PROOFED cook’s on: John Burgoyne Click on the Cook’s Extra link for our i allowed to ferment for ing is to press it Dough will feel spongy rather • list of Gadgets and Gear for the Bread several hours or over- gently with a lightly than firm, and indentation ex tra Baker. night before the dough is moistened finger. will slowly fill in. Information available until August 1, 2007.

• Illustrat

c o o k ’ s illustrated

bread making at a glance Here’s a brief overview of the steps you must follow to make most breads.

5. Ferment Fermentation is the process in which the starches in the flour break down to feed the yeast, which then releases carbon 9. Slash dioxide. This gas is Slashing the proofed loaf with a sharp trapped by the fibers of paring knife or razor allows the crust gluten, giving the bread lift. to expand and will prevent the bread 1. Measure We like to ferment dough from splitting in the oven. Carefully measuring ingredients is crucial in a clear, straight-sided to success. Because the ratio of flour to container, which allows us to water greatly impacts the end result, we easily judge when the dough has properly risen. It recommend weighing the ingredients before is also helpful to mark the height of the dough by making bread. placing a rubber band around the container.

6. Punch Down Punching down helps to redistrib- ute the yeast and allows it to find new food. This increases the yeast 10. Add Water activity, ultimately Misting the loaf right before it goes into the oven leading to bread delays the formation of a crust, allowing the bread with a better texture. to fully expand without tearing or splitting. The Punching down bread steam also promotes the formation of a crispy, should not be violent. glossy crust. 2. Mix The simplest way is to pull Mixing distributes the ingredients, hydrates the edges of the dough the flour, and starts the development of toward the center or push gluten. down gently on the dough.

7. Shape 11. Bake 3. Autolyse Form the dough into the desired shape on an A baking stone will help keep the oven temperature Once the ingredients are fully combined, a unfloured work surface, which allows the dough to steady and promote a thicker, crispier crust on free- 20-minute rest (called autolyse; see page 16) grip the counter, thus facilitating shaping. form loaves. allows the flour to completely absorb the moisture and makes kneading quicker and easier.

12. Cool 4. Knead 8. Proof Cooling on a rack allows moisture to escape and Kneading develops the gluten strands in the Proofing is the dough’s final rise before baking. keeps the bottom crust from becoming damp and dough, which in turn provide the bread’s struc- When properly proofed, dough will have enough soggy. Breads that are baked in a loaf pan should be ture. Resist the temptation to add excess flour, energy to provide the yeast with one last burst of removed from the pan as soon as they have cooled which will make the baked loaf dry. activity (called oven spring) in the hot oven. enough to be handled.

m a r c h & a p r i l 2 0 0 7