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Grand Gesture PARIS — on Wednesday, John Galliano Showed a Dior Fall Couture Collection Designed on a Bold Scale

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Grand Gesture PARIS — on Wednesday, John Galliano Showed a Dior Fall Couture Collection Designed on a Bold Scale The Inside: Top Ret Pg. 14 FASHION’S OLYMPIC GOLD/3 WHAT TO WATCH/10-12 WWD ail Web Sites WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 7, 2005• $2.00 List Sportswear Grand Gesture PARIS — On Wednesday, John Galliano showed a Dior fall couture collection designed on a bold scale. There was a wide variety of evening looks, many of them tulle- over-corset styles, often riffing on Christian Dior’s work, since the house is celebrating the 100th anniversary of his birth. Here, one of Galliano’s New Look-style stunners. For more on the shows, see pages 6 and 7. PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION The Paris fall couture shows began with John Galliano’s grand-scale ™ 6 collection for Dior and Giorgio Armani’s Hollywood looks at Armani Privé. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL The British fashion flock are already into the Olympic spirit with the news ON THE PLUS SIDE 3 that London nosed out Paris in the bid for the 2012 Summer Games. Women with curves count on greater apparel offerings today A public prosecutor has once again sided with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis 3 Vuitton in its ongoing bias suit against investment firm Morgan Stanley. Water, water everywhere and not a drop to have the opportunity to shop in the main sections Cartier on Wednesday named Frédéric de Narp as president and chief drink. Until recently, this sentiment seemed to sum of a store versus being segregated to a certain area 3 executive officer of Cartier North America. up the experience of the plus-size woman looking to as they’ve been in the past,” observes Metzger. Canada’s main apparel workers union is lobbying the government to take quench her style thirst. Thankfully, times have “It goes a long way in offering a fashion liberation 16 steps to limit the growth of surging apparel imports from China. changed for the better, and today’s woman with for these consumers.” According to America Online, the most popular searches include Speedo curves enjoys a greater array of This also means a liberation 16 swimwear, Oakley sunglasses, Angelina Jolie, Cosmopolitans and Las Vegas. styles in extended sizes and from premium prices and staid Seventh on Sixth has reached a deal with UPS, which will sponsor a fourth specialty lines created just for her. styles. “In our focus groups, 18 tent during Fashion Week, with a focus on young designers. “This market was under-served plus-size women told us that they Specialty retailer Le Château is negotiating with a French licensor as part of for so long,” explains Michele had a hard time finding fun 18 its first expansion outside North America. Weston, executive editor of the clothes, and what they did see was online magazine AmaZe, which really expensive,” tells Lui from launches this month, offering Old Navy. “No matter what your IN THE MARKETS plus- size women apparel ideas size, there are some items you THE BEAT: New York retailers discuss which designers they’ll carry for fall from A to Z. Relates Weston, know you won’t wear next year, so 10 and why their customers soon will be asking for these collections by name. “Fortunately, things have why should you spend a lot of DENIM: Salt Works has closed the books on its first year as one the improved in the last decade and money on them?” 11 growing breed of premium jeans firms stretching the denim balloon. it’s a far more evolved market.” Another element in this new- ACTIVE: Female athletes are poised for better endorsement deals…Sport Part of that evolution includes found freedom is the right to bare 12 companies are concentrating on lifestyle looks for fall and holiday. the realization that the plus-size “[The plus-size woman] is the arms – and legs and shoulders. shopper is just like any other same as anyone else; she wants “For so long, plus-size women woman, and not just a statistic in to feel feminine and sexy when believed that they had to EYE she gets dressed. Designers and John Traina’s Fourth of July barn dance drew Nicole Richie, Marisa Tomei a niche market. cover up,” recounts Weiss from and Jordana Brewster up to Napa from Hollywood…A Suzy scoop. “She’s not a specialty merchants are finally waking up alight.com. “No one was offering 4 to this fact, and offering the same consumer,” insists designer them revealing fashions. Some of Classified Advertisements........................................................................19 Richard Metzger, whose creations styles and fabrications to women our best sellers are strappy, sexy, of all sizes.” To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is have been worn by curvy skin-baring tank tops, sleeveless [email protected], using the individual’s name. celebrities such as Oprah — Richard Metzger shirts and capri pants.” designer WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 Winfrey, Queen Latifah and “I’ve held trunk shows for FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Camryn Manheim. “She’s the same as anyone years and so many women would come and tell me VOLUME 190, NO. 4. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional else; she wants to feel feminine and sexy when she what they couldn’t wear or, sadly, what they were told issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 gets dressed. Designers and merchants are finally they couldn’t wear because of their size,” shares West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; waking up to this fact, and offering the same styles Metzger. “Plus-size women have been held back; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, there are plenty of things that they can wear and it’s Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior and fabrications to women of all sizes.” Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- “I traveled in and out of Paris for years and never time they embraced the full range of offerings.” President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at found any beautiful clothes in anything over a size This particularly includes jumping on trends, says additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, 10,” shares designer Gayla Bentley. “I finally decided Weston. “Fifties influences and Bohemian Chic look ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR that I should just starting making these clothes great on women with curves. They can wear long SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR myself. Women with curves want flattering clothes cotton Bermuda shorts, which cut the leg at a great DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new and they shouldn’t have to just make do.” angle, and pair it with a shapely sleeveless top. Tiered subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production skirts and Indian tunics correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, “Our easy fit strategy Current Dress Size with the boho touch also please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild ensures that every woman is magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully 04Q1 05Q1 +/- pts. able to easily find something look fantastic for the plus- screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive that fits and fits comfortably,” 0 to 6 20.2% 20.6% 0.4 size woman.” these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. shares Jim Frain, COO 7 to 11 29.3% 28.1% -1.2 Never underestimate this WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED 12 to 14 23.7% 23.4% -0.3 MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND of Chico’s. “Shoppers will consumer’s penchant for TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART 15+ 21.5% 24.9% 3.4 always be able to find trends, Weiss emphasizes. “I WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE something new in their size, particularly if they have never come across an item that is fashion right ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID.
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