The Inside: Top Ret Pg. 14 FASHION’S OLYMPIC GOLD/3 WHAT TO WATCH/10-12 WWD ail Web Sites WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 7, 2005• $2.00 List Grand Gesture PARIS — Wednesday, John Galliano showed a Dior fall couture collection designed on a bold scale. There was a wide variety of evening looks, many of them tulle- over-corset styles, often riffing on Christian Dior’s work, since the house is celebrating the 100th anniversary of his birth. Here, one of Galliano’s New -style stunners. For more on the shows, see pages 6 and 7. PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION The Paris fall couture shows began with John Galliano’s grand-scale ™ 6 collection for Dior and Giorgio Armani’s Hollywood looks at Armani Privé. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL The British fashion flock are already into the Olympic spirit with the news ON THE PLUS SIDE 3 that London nosed out Paris in the bid for the 2012 Summer Games. Women with curves count on greater apparel offerings today A public prosecutor has once again sided with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis 3 Vuitton in its ongoing bias suit against investment firm Morgan Stanley. Water, water everywhere and not a drop to have the opportunity to shop in the main sections Cartier on Wednesday named Frédéric de Narp as president and chief drink. Until recently, this sentiment seemed to sum of a store versus being segregated to a certain area 3 executive officer of Cartier North America. up the experience of the plus-size woman looking to as they’ve been in the past,” observes Metzger. Canada’s main apparel workers union is lobbying the government to take quench her style thirst. Thankfully, times have “It goes a long way in offering a fashion liberation 16 steps to limit the growth of surging apparel imports from China. changed for the better, and today’s woman with for these consumers.” According to America Online, the most popular searches include curves enjoys a greater array of This also means a liberation 16 swimwear, Oakley sunglasses, Angelina Jolie, Cosmopolitans and Las Vegas. styles in extended sizes and from premium prices and staid Seventh on Sixth has reached a deal with UPS, which will sponsor a fourth specialty lines created just for her. styles. “In our focus groups, 18 tent during Fashion Week, with a focus on young designers. “This market was under-served plus-size women told us that they Specialty retailer Le Château is negotiating with a French licensor as part of for so long,” explains Michele had a hard time finding fun 18 its first expansion outside North America. Weston, executive editor of the clothes, and what they did see was online magazine AmaZe, which really expensive,” tells Lui from launches this month, offering Old Navy. “No matter what your IN THE MARKETS plus- size women apparel ideas size, there are some items you THE BEAT: New York retailers discuss which designers they’ll carry for fall from A to Z. Relates Weston, know you won’t wear next year, so 10 and why their customers soon will be asking for these collections by name. “Fortunately, things have why should you spend a lot of DENIM: Salt Works has closed the books on its first year as one the improved in the last decade and money on them?” 11 growing breed of premium jeans firms stretching the denim balloon. it’s a far more evolved market.” Another element in this new- ACTIVE: Female athletes are poised for better endorsement deals…Sport Part of that evolution includes found freedom is the right to bare 12 companies are concentrating on lifestyle looks for fall and holiday. the realization that the plus-size “[The plus-size woman] is the arms – and legs and shoulders. shopper is just like any other same as anyone else; she wants “For so long, plus-size women woman, and not just a statistic in to feel feminine and sexy when believed that they had to EYE she gets dressed. Designers and John Traina’s Fourth of July barn dance drew Nicole Richie, Marisa Tomei a niche market. cover up,” recounts Weiss from and Jordana Brewster up to Napa from Hollywood…A Suzy scoop. “She’s not a specialty merchants are finally waking up alight.com. “No one was offering 4 to this fact, and offering the same consumer,” insists designer them revealing fashions. Some of Classified Advertisements...... 19 Richard Metzger, whose creations styles and fabrications to women our best sellers are strappy, sexy, of all sizes.” To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is have been worn by curvy skin-baring tank tops, sleeveless [email protected], using the individual’s name. celebrities such as Oprah — Richard Metzger shirts and capri pants.” designer WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 Winfrey, Queen Latifah and “I’ve held trunk shows for FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Camryn Manheim. “She’s the same as anyone years and so many women would come and tell me VOLUME 190, NO. 4. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional else; she wants to feel feminine and sexy when she what they couldn’t wear or, sadly, what they were told issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 gets dressed. Designers and merchants are finally they couldn’t wear because of their size,” shares West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; waking up to this fact, and offering the same styles Metzger. “Plus-size women have been held back; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, there are plenty of things that they can wear and it’s Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior and fabrications to women of all sizes.” Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- “I traveled in and out of Paris for years and never time they embraced the full range of offerings.” President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at found any beautiful clothes in anything over a size This particularly includes jumping on trends, says additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, 10,” shares designer Gayla Bentley. “I finally decided Weston. “Fifties influences and Bohemian Chic look ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR that I should just starting making these clothes great on women with curves. They can wear long SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR myself. Women with curves want flattering clothes cotton Bermuda shorts, which cut the leg at a great DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new and they shouldn’t have to just make do.” angle, and pair it with a shapely sleeveless top. Tiered subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production skirts and Indian tunics correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, “Our easy fit strategy Current Dress Size with the boho touch also please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild ensures that every woman is magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully 04Q1 05Q1 +/- pts. able to easily find something look fantastic for the plus- screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive that fits and fits comfortably,” 0 to 6 20.2% 20.6% 0.4 size woman.” these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. shares Jim Frain, COO 7 to 11 29.3% 28.1% -1.2 Never underestimate this WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED 12 to 14 23.7% 23.4% -0.3 MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND of Chico’s. “Shoppers will consumer’s penchant for TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART 15+ 21.5% 24.9% 3.4 always be able to find trends, Weiss emphasizes. “I WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE something new in their size, particularly if they have never come across an item that is fashion right ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. shop the Web, where there is a greater range of that has not done well on our site.” sizes available.” As women, we are more alike than we are The Internet has certainly changed the availability different, reminds Weston. “The biggest challenge of fashions for all women. “Style has no limits and for any woman of any size is fit,” she says. “Any In Brief that includes size,” relates Norman Weiss, who founded woman is going to try on a dozen pair of jeans to find alight.com five years ago for the plus-sized consumer. the right fit.” ● URGING G8 TRADE TALK: As world leaders begin a three-day “We offer the fashion items that women haven’t Female respondents cited fit as the number one summit in Scotland today, trade diplomats in Geneva urged always been able to find in stores in their sizes.” reason they no longer liked a particular garment, them to inject political will into the troubled Doha global trade There are an increasing number of women who according to the Monitor. Nearly another third talks. They warned that failure by the G8 to act could result in a may be taking advantage of these offerings. stated that they just didn’t like the way a garment collapse of the Doha round during the Hong Kong World Trade According to Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle looked on them anymore. Organization summit in December. “The top trade priority for Monitor™, 24.9% of women in the first quarter of We all want to feel good about how we look, the world leaders at Gleneagles [Scotland] is to give a boost to asserts designer Bentley. “When you find something the flagging Doha Development Round,” said European Union 2005 stated that they wear a size 15 or greater, Trade Commissioner Peter Mandelson in a keynote speech in up from 21.5% for the same year-ago period. that fits, is comfortable and looks great, at whatever Edinburgh. “I am worried about Doha. Not enough progress is Approximately another one in four women today the cost, you’ve got it all.” being made and we are beginning to run out of time.” A success- wears a size 12 to 14. Attests Weston, “A size 20 And that’s a real plus for any woman! ful outcome in the round, launched in Doha, Qatar, in November woman wants to be able to shop with her size 12 and This story is one in a series of articles based on findings 2001, would lower barriers to trade in goods and services worth size 4 friends and have the same options.” from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ nearly $11 trillion in 2004. That’s precisely why retailers like Old Navy have tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, extended their size offerings. “In our stores, the larger each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the ● NEW LIZ LICENSE: Liz Claiborne swimwear now will be made sizes are not isolated or placed in a special area; American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes under license by Swimwear Anywhere, a Farmingdale, N.Y., they are mixed in with all the other sizes,” relates and behavior regarding , swim firm that also makes Juicy Couture, DKNY and Gabar swimwear lines. The Liz Claiborne line had been made by spokesperson Andrea Lui. appearance, fashion, fiber selection and Beachwear. The new looks, which include swimwear “It’s extremely important that plus-size women many other timely, relevant subjects. and cover-ups, will be shown at the SwimShow 2006 in Miami later this month and will hit stores in November. WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 7, 2005 3 WWD.COM London Set for Olympic Gold Rush By Samantha Conti Cox, a London-based Canadian, said the people who live and work in central London would get the best of LONDON — The British fashion flock are already into both worlds. “The bedlam will be in the East End — so the Olympic spirit. removed from the center of town, and we’ll be getting The news Wednesday that London nosed out Paris in the top end of the tourism.” the bid for the 2012 Summer Olympics sent the country Cox, who’s done special-edition for the celebrating as if it had just won the World Cup. Atlanta Olympics and other international sports Designers were among the celebrants — and they were events, said he’d definitely create a new design to already figuring out how to work the theme into their mark the event. collections. He added that London’s win was also the “most fabu- “This is such great news,” said Manolo Blahnik. lous possible” snub to French President Jacques “This will be absolutely an inspiration to me. There will Chirac, who, like so many other Frenchman through no doubt be some Olympic boots in a future collection.” the years, insulted English food during the campaign- Stella McCartney was equally pleased. “I would love ing. “I think it’s a sign the French need to change their to get the team looking extrafine in our gear,” she said, leader,” Cox said. referring to her new sports performance line, Stella Across the English Channel, the news that Paris lost McCartney for . out drew mixed reactions. Karl Lagerfeld, another Julien Macdonald said he was over the moon. “My fa- transplanted designer, clearly wasn’t weeping for vorite events are the gymnastics and tri-athletics, and ’s loss. A few days before the announcement, the my designs for the Games would be very glamorous.” German-born, Paris-based designer said he wasn’t According to the London Retail Consortium, a body thrilled about the French bid — but purely from an aes- that represents retailers in and around the city, the thetic perspective. Games, which will take place in London’s East End, “I only hope they get rid of that neon thing in front of should generate an extra $917 million, or 521 million the parliament, which is an embarrassment to Paris,” pounds, for the retail sector. he said, referring to the gigantic Paris 2012 eyesore “Retailers generally benefit from this plastered on the elegant columns of the National feel-good factor as it usually means peo- Assembly building. “It’s beyond horrible. I like Las ple have a positive attitude toward Vegas — but not in Paris.” everything — including spending Although the British media were quick to credit Lord their money,” said a spokesman for Sebastian Coe, the former Olympic gold medalist and the LRC. chairman of the London bid, and Prime Minister Tony

It’s the first time since 1948 the TIM JENKINS PHOTOS BY Blair for Wednesday’s victory, it was patently clear the Olympics have been held in Londoners celebrate winning the 2012 secret weapon was David Beckham, one of the East Britain and, in 2012, London will Olympic Games. End’s native sons and captain of England’s national soc- become the first city to have host- cer team. ed the modern Olympic Games On Tuesday, before the voting began, Beckham ad- three times. panded store format that will be dressed members of the International Olympic Caroline Collis, a director at the unveiled in October. Committee in Singapore. He told them he used to canoe designer specialty store Browns, Allegra Hicks and Patrick Cox on the River Lea — where some of the Olympic water said the Games would bring the city heard the news during a lunch at sports will be held. a big boost. Mortons in honor of Brooke Shields. “I would love the Olympics to be in the East End, my “It will impact everything — retail, Hicks said she was looking forward to manor,” the suntanned Beckham said with a big, property, the economy — and people’s spir- the gymnastics events in particular. sparkling smile. “But it’s not just about the East End. its,” she said. “I never really thought of myself as “I love to watch the Games, and I cry every It’s not just about London. It’s going to transform the the patriotic sort, but London really deserved this.” time someone wins,” she said. “And of course I’d love to whole country. To have the Olympics in London — that’s A spokeswoman for Topshop said the store would dress some of the athletes. That kind of project would something special.” definitely mark the Games in some way, and was al- be great because it’s not just about fashion. They’re ath- — With contributions from Ellen Burney and ready gearing up to handle extra shoppers with an ex- letes, so it has a double edge.” Nina Jones, London, and Miles Socha, Paris Night of Stars Sets Cartier Names de Narp as President of U.S. Operation By Sophia Chabbott Cartier has estimated sales of $600 million in the Fashion Honorees U.S. alone. Other Richemont brands include Baume & NEW YORK — Cartier on Wednesday named Frédéric Mercier, Chloé, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Panerai, NEW YORK — Valentino, de Narp as president and chief executive officer of Piaget, Shanghai Tang and Vacheron Constantin. The Olivier Theyskens, Alberta Cartier North America. company is known to promote executives from within, Ferretti and Ralph Rucci De Narp’s appointment confirms an April 7 report as with de Quercize and de Narp. will be among the hon- in WWD. He succeeds Stanislas de Quercize, who is Bernard Fornas, president and ceo of Cartier orees at Fashion Group moving to Paris to Van Cleef & Arpels International, said in a statement, “Frédéric de International’s 22nd annu- International in September. De Quercize has held the Narp comes to Cartier North America with exten- al Night of Stars. Cartier post for three years. Both companies are sive international experience, particularly in the re- The black-tie gala, owned by the Swiss luxury group Compagnie tail business.” scheduled to take place Financière Richemont. De Narp has been with Cartier since 1991. He has at Cipriani 42nd Street The Brittany, France-born de Narp will move to the held roles as manager of the Ginza, Tokyo, boutique, on Oct. 27, will be cen- U.S. with his wife and five children this summer to retail manager of Cartier and Italy and tered around “The take over his role on Sept. 1. was most recently ceo of Cartier Italy. Romantics” and will cel- ebrate members of the fashion, design and busi- ness communities whose work exemplifies the LVMH Wins Again Over Morgan Stanley night’s theme. Valentino will take PARIS — A public prosecutor has once again sided with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in its bias suit against home the night’s Super- investment firm Morgan Stanley. star Award. Other awards Valentino The prosecutor recently filed an opinion with the appeals court here saying the French luxury group has the will be given to fashion right to claim for moral and material prejudice. LVMH is said to be seeking a total claim of 232 million euros, or designers Rucci, Theyskens and Ferretti; makeup $276.3 million at current exchange. artist Pat McGrath, and architect William McDonough. In January 2004, the Paris commercial court ordered Morgan Stanley to pay LVMH 30 million euros, or $35.8 mil- Donald Trump, meanwhile, will receive a special lion, for “gross misconduct” related to the writings of its luxury goods analyst, Claire Kent. Three months before award recognizing him as a visionary business leader. that, a public prosecutor told the judges he detected fault under French tort law. The Fashion Oracle Award will be handed to book Morgan Stanley, which filed its appeal in June 2004, denies any wrongdoing and stands by Kent’s research. A publisher Prosper Assouline. Simon Doonan will be spokeswoman for the investment bank could not be reached for comment on Wednesday. the evening’s emcee. Public prosecutors occasionally weigh in on high-profile cases, or ones where laws may need clarification. LVMH This year’s lead sponsor is Saks Fifth Avenue, noted the appeals court is not obliged to follow the prosecutor’s opinion, but historically it carries some weight. while Givaudan, In Style, Kellwood and Vertis are The appeals court here is expected to hear the case in late October or early November. presenting sponsors. Meanwhile, a court-appointed expert is still tabulating damages for what LVMH described as a systematic effort — Marc Karimzadeh by the investment bank from 1999 to 2002 to denigrate LVMH while favoring rival Gucci Group, which received fi- nancial advice from Morgan Stanley. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 7, 2005 WWD.COM

Almost no marriage, no matter how happy and successful it appears on the surface, ever really reflects SUZY SCOOP the way it’s playing out underneath. Multimillionaire Robert Trump and his beautiful wife, Blaine, have been married for more than 20 years, and they were considered an ideal couple by everyone who knew them, certainly by all their friends in the high- powered social world they occupied in New York. Yes, a seemingly perfect couple, practically a miracle in their imperfect circles, where many marriage vows are doomed almost before they are over. Then about a year ago, the anonymous phone calls to Blaine began. They were ugly and specific and very much to the point. Robert, the callers told her, was having an adulterous affair with a sales representative he had installed in his office and it had been going on for four years. Blaine was devastated and refused to believe any part of it. Then, after agonizing for months, she discovered it was true. As this town is the gossip capital of the world, where a secret is impossible to keep for long, the rumors of trouble in the Trumps’ marriage began shortly thereafter. At first, like Blaine, no one could or would believe the scurrilous stories. As more and more information filtered out, I kept getting phone calls asking what was going on. Some knew bits and pieces about the scandal, others knew a lot more. There was shock, surprise and disbelief. And, because the Trumps were not seen together anywhere for weeks and weeks, Robert and fuel was added to the fire. Still, I sat on the story. Blaine Trump at Now the facts are out. The marriage is over. Blaine Katie, the American is divorcing Robert. And when you hear that old adage Samantha, Ballet Theatre that the wife is always the last one to know, believe it. Vanessa and gala on May 23. (Do I know the other woman’s name? Of course I Zara Traina. do. But as far as I’m concerned, you can read it somewhere else.)

eye® LOS ANGELES — It might be one of the toughest velvet ropes to cross in Hollywood, Jumping but Amanda Scheer Demme’s Tropicana Bar at the reborn Roosevelt Hotel got a little competition last week when the supper club Dakota finally pulled back its leather, licorice whip-like curtains to a mixed bunch, from Tatiana von Furstenberg and Roberto Benabib to surf honcho Bob Hurley. Lisa Eisner arrived with a mini entourage of Fourth pals, quickly informing anyone who’d listen, Tatiana von NAPA, Calif. — John Traina’s Fourth of July barn “You know Eric’s playing, right?” regarding her Furstenberg in dance doesn’t usually draw the likes of Nicole husband, who moonlights as a guitarist with a DVF and vintage Richie, Marisa Tomei, and Jordana Brewster up to jazz band fronted by Audrey Bernstein. But with Susanna Napa from Hollywood, but this year it did. The Demme needn’t worry too much. Although the Howe in vintage. starlets weren’t there for potential photo ops — new chophouse from Liza and Tim Goodell is even the paparazzi-friendly Richie wouldn’t allow likely to become as hot a ticket as their other photographers to get a shot of her at the hoedown. four restaurants (most recently, Meson G), the Instead, the gang — which included Vanessa and 1927-era dining room shares the same Samantha Traina, Dede Wilsey, Alexis Swanson, address as the Tropicana. The same interior Sally Debenham, Summer Tompkins, Karen designer, too — Dodd Mitchell. Caufield, Diane Chapman and Therese Post —do- The following night, it was the Tropicana si-doed with lariat-twirling rhinestone cowgirls, pool that drew in revelers such as designer Uncle Sam stilt walkers and cowboy card players Matthew Williamson and Jacqui Getty, who kept well past midnight. the Veuve Clicquot flowing through the night “This is the first Saturday night I’ve had away Marisa Tomei for Liz Goldwyn, Brigette Romanek, Rosetta from the restaurant for Getty, , Amanda De Cadenet and Amanda De Cadenet Maxx years,” said Laura boyfriend, Strokes guitarist Nick Valensi. “I’m and Nick Valensi Traina Cunningham, manager definitely coming back in November,” of the nearby French Williamson told Rachel Zoe Rosenzweig, who’d been by to see him earlier in the day to Laundry and girlfriend pick out Emmy dresses for Jennifer Garner and Nicole Richie. “I’m already thinking of chef-owner Thomas womanly, less girly dresses, too,” he added, his eye on conquering the red carpet. “It’s

Keller, as she leaped Hoteljust California time to move on.” onto the dance floor. “I’m going to make the most of it.” Adria Bini, just in from her family’s estate in Arezzo, Italy, wore a flouncy white peasant skirt with an elaborate beaded and fringed Moroccan belt. She admitted it didn’t exactly scream patriotism. “It’s my Italian way of celebrating the Fourth of July,” she quipped. “I don’t wear a lot of red or blue.” Brewster, however, was much more comfortable representing her homeland, seeing as Jacqui Getty she’d been doing so for months in film. The dark- inin MatthewMatthew haired actress recently finished shooting Williamsonilliamson “Annapolis,” which will be released in January. with Matthew “It’s kind of ‘Top Gun’ meets ‘An Officer and a Williamson.illiamson. Gentleman,’ set at the Naval Academy in Annapolis,” she said. “I play the wise, older, upperclassman who gets [actor] through training.” Jordana Lisa Ann Cabasa Heather Anderson And presumably sails away into the sunset. Brewster at Tropicana. inin DVFDVF atat Dakota.Dakota. TRAINA PHOTOS BY TOM GIBBONS; TRUMPS BY STEVE EICHNER; DAKOTA BY DONATO SARDELLA; ARMANDO ARORIZO TROPICANA BY DONATO BY STEVE EICHNER; DAKOTA TOM GIBBONS; TRUMPS BY PHOTOS BY TRAINA

6 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 7, 2005 Paris Couture:Wil As the Paris fall couture collections got under way on Wednesday, there were two sides of fashion in evidence: John Galliano’s ultradramatic, grand-scale collection for Dior Dior

Dior

Dior

Dior: The stage set for John Galliano’s Christian Dior often ignored these days — diversity. At a time when (Calling all Lindsay and Scarlett types: Why not ditch collection sent expectations sky-high: the ruins of a dressing up has, despite the publicity it generates, the diva trappings in favor of some young-girl party once-glorious garden, grand iron gate overrun with become something of a rote affair, Galliano dared to put clothes while the window’s still open?) And because, in vines, paths strewn with toppled statuary and discarded, the grand scale back into grand events. And if not a Galliano’s tome, no history is sacrosanct, he Dior-ified cobweb-covered chandeliers. Somehow, this made the single one of his remarkably embellished tulle-over- traditional Peruvian garb in an imagined ballet perfect backdrop against which he would celebrate the corset creations was client/celebrity-ready per se, each choreographed by Margot Fonteyn. house founder in typically complicated fashion. In this offered the overstated germ of an idea ripe for reality What Galliano did not do was run as far as he might centennial year of Dior’s birth, Galliano riffed wildly on mining. The siren may be swell — Galliano dedicated a have with his haute construction exposé, content instead his body of work — as previously interpreted by Rene section to her, engaging the iconic likes of Linda, to build each look in a similar fashion — that is, in see- Gruau, Christian Bérard and Cecil Beaton — while Shalom, Naomi and other supermodels to play Rita, through tulle over nude corsets — albeit with very folding in a soupçon of Peruvian pep because, why not? Ginger, Ava et al — but she’s hardly the only one invited different effects. Nor did he deliver that one longed-for Galliano billed the show as “an interesting to John’s party. His is an open-door policy, welcoming in couture look that was, well, ready to wear. But just as he exploration into the construction of Haute Couture,” the Edwardian ladies of Dior’s early childhood, his did last season with his Josephine-cum-Edie Sedgwick and if it didn’t fulfill that promise exactly, it did make a extravagant New Look mannequins and glorious debs à stunner, Galliano once again focused on the glorious joyful argument for an element of evening fashion too la Princess Margaret in full-on ballroom regalia. possibilities inherent in daring to be different. WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 7, 2005 7 WWD.COM

Armani Privé Fashion Scoops WEDDING BELLES: The frothy white gowns that made their way down the Dior couture runway Wednesday caught the eye of at least one famous bride-to-be in ld or Mild the front row. “I’m shopping for r Dior, and Giorgio Armani’s working wardrobe for Hollywood sirens at Armani Privé. my wedding dress,” cooed Armani Privé Armani Privé Christina Aguilera, who added that Christian Lacroix and Givenchy were also possible bridal picks. Drew Barrymore was more coy, although rumor has it she soon may be walking down the aisle again. “This is my first Dior show. It is all very new to Clockwise from top: Ziyi me,” said the actress, taking Zhang, Christina time out from filming “Lucky Aguilera and Dita Van You.” After locking lips for the Teese; Drew Barrymore cameras with her fiancé, Fabrizio and Charlize Theron. Moretti, Barrymore hinted she also was working on a commercial for South America, blushing when asked to reveal more. Elsewhere, the paparazzi crush reached dangerous proportions with the arrivals of Chinese actress Ziyi Zhang and Charlize Theron, who just wrapped up “Class Action,” a movie about the first big sexual harassment case in the U.S. But other cameras soon will be turning. Theron, the face of J’Adore, said she would be spending the next few days in Paris posing for new Dior fragrance ads. “I’ve always liked fashion,” she quipped. “It’s a serious art form.” Armani Privé WHEN IN : Fendi, which recently christened a new headquarters and flagship in Rome, is about to welcome a new director of worldwide communications. According to sources, Christiana Monfardini, who has handled worldwide public relations and communications for Moschino since 2002, is expected to join Fendi this fall. She will take over responsibilities handled in recent years by Carla Fendi. Monfardini’s résumé also includes stints at Escada, Ittierre and Gianni Versace.

ROCK OF AGES: London came calling on Paris late Tuesday night when Hedi Slimane threw himself a raucous birthday party after his men’s wear show. Not only did he bring in his favorite bands of the moment — including The Paddingtons and The Others — he arranged for two Eurostar carriages full of beer-fueled young trendies to join him. Still, all eyes were on the hottest not-so-secret couple of the moment, Pete Doherty and Kate Kate Moss and Moss, who rambled into the party Pete Doherty ready for a tear. After smooching with Doherty on the sofa and chatting with the likes of David Furnish, Pet Shop boy Neil Tennant and Jake Shears of Scissor Sisters, Moss plucked a bottle of Dom Perignon from the ice bucket and hit the dance floor, where she took a friendly twirl with her ex, Jefferson Hack.

PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI GIANNONI STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY STAGE MIGHT: When Tina Turner next Armani Privé: Giorgio Armani’s Armani Privé was launched with a hits the stage, she could very well be roar last season, becoming an instant red-carpet regular on women taking Armani Privé very public. “I wouldn’t mind ordering some things such as Katie Holmes, Beyoncé and Cate Blanchett. Now, having Molly established the label’s profile, for fall Armani decided to invest in a for some upcoming dates,” Turner said on her way into Giorgio Armani’s Sims larger collection (from about 20 looks last season to 51), rather than and “buy a painting,” he said during the men’s shows in Milan. The second couture outing Wednesday Giorgio result played genuine chic against a high-gloss, borderline-kitsch morning. The usual celebrity gridlock homage (the antenna hat, the lacy gloves) to the haute of yore. ensued, with Turner’s side of the Armani Armani started with daytime glam, his droopy furs outshone by runway packed with the likes of exquisite tailoring. Despite too-sharp shoulders, tiny peplumed Claudia Cardinale, Rita Wilson, Matt jackets detailed with rosette closures or finely ruched waists Dillon, Molly Sims and a gaggle of up- looked terrific over fluid trousers or skirts with siren curves. But and-coming French starlets. Raymond rich-lady suits notwithstanding, couture today is ultimately about Usher was in no hurry to get to his evening, targeted ever more acutely to that endless schedule of seat. He just caught some R&R in Tina high-profile celebrity events, from which visuals are played Saint-Tropez thanks to Armani, who Turner around the globe ad infinitum. In that world, it’s the actresses (or lent the R&B star his house there. and “It’s more like a cottage,” Usher their stylists), rather than the designers, who call the shots. Thus, Usher while the au courant cliché bills the Oscars as the world’s biggest said. “The style is very relaxed.” fashion show, it’s not true. Because most of what’s on the red carpet is not real fashion, but rather a series of task-specific JIMMY’S JELLY JAM: This far into the clothes that fit certain criteria: Dresses that photograph well, that season, summer wardrobes are pretty highlight rather than hide or distort the thinness of the wearer, well stocked. But for many that appeal to mainstream notions of chic. ladies, there’s always room On that scale, Privé works beautifully. The gowns were for another pair of glamorous in the siren sense, most looks hugging every curve — shoes, and when or lack of them — and ending in a pose-worthy mermaid flounce. Jimmy Choo’s Yet overall repetition deflated individual appeal in Armani’s new Waikiki parade of one ultralean dress after another, strapless morphing sandal hits stores into halter into one-shoulder with little obvious distinction, the in two weeks, it’s a sea of irritating blackness offset not at all by a splash of dark good guess the fashion crowd will be clamoring for it. Available brown, and not enough by a few pale embroideries. Still, these in purple or brown, the jelly sandal comes with matching are the kind of evening clothes, as the saying goes, a woman can’t metallic laces and beads. And, by today’s $700 stiletto go wrong in, which, for the red carpet, means no major faux pas standards, the $230 Waikiki could be considered a bargain. to be rehashed through eternity. 8 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 7, 2005 WWD.COM Denim Dish Wrangler Tries Premium on for Size Wrangler, best known for its American heritage and Western lifestyle apparel, will launch the Wrangler Premium Patch collection for spring, a denim line for women and men. Premium Patch pairs modern fits with a vintage feel. The women’s line will be sold in specialty boutiques and upper-tier depart- ment stores and retail for $79 to $110. The line derives its inspiration from the personal vin- tage fashion library of its creative director, Monique Buzy-Pucheu, who has collected a library of thousands of pieces of denim. About 50 of them are Bluebell pieces, the line that became Wrangler in 1947. The Premium Patch col- lection consists of three major fits named for cities where Wrangler has facto- A new back pocket ries: the Madison, a design will be bootleg; the Lillington, a featured for holiday. cigarette-style jean, and the Ayden, a flared style. There are four to seven washes per fit. Buzy- The resin- Pucheu said it takes five to seven hours to washed Getting Cashmere for Christmas create one pair of Premium Patch jeans. They Madison Jean Paul Da’mage can attest to just how hot the women’s premium jeans market has are manufactured in the U.S. and in Mexico. miniskirt and been and wants to add to the sizzle during the holiday season with a new cashmere jean. “Everything we do is manual,” she said. Ayden jeans in The Atlanta-based company introduced its first women’s offering less than a year “The grinding, the sand-papering, the Wrangler’s new ago when the only women’s style available was a basic slim-cut, low-rise fit, said whiskering — it’s all done by hand.” premium line David Long, a Da’mage founder and principal. Celebrity endorsements from stars The launch is the culmination of the forfor spring.spring. such as Drew Barrymore have generated demand and innovation since. brand’s reinvention. Last fall, Wrangler The company has three fits available — slim, boys’ and core — the last of which started the Wrangler 47 collection, a premi- Long described as between the slim and boys’ fits. Fourteen washes are available. um line at a higher price point — $125 to $150 “Our women’s business has blown us away,” said Long, who noted that women’s retail — signifying the brand’s presence in the premium accounted for about 50 percent of the company’s $20 denim category. million annual wholesale volume. “The Wrangler 47 consumer is aged 21 to 39 years old, Long said it is a balance not typically seen in the lives in a large metropolitan area and is a trendy, fashion- jeans market, where sales of women’s jeans can outpace forward person,” said Phil McAdams, president of men’s by exponential factors. It has been all about the Wrangler specialty apparel. “The Premium Patch con- ladies this year. sumer is 18 to 45 years old and is fashion-aware, but not “Our men’s business is still extremely strong, but we’re on the edge of the trends.” focusing our marketing toward women right now,” he said. McAdams said the Premium Patch line combines the The company’s new jean for the holiday season, the Wrangler heritage with a contemporary design aesthetic. Savannah, is a cashmere blend that will retail for more Part of the company’s business plan, he said, is to create than $500. an updated product that translates to today’s consumer. “It feels like you’re wearing a sweater, but it “Wrangler has been known as a Western brand, a mass brand,” McAdams said. breathes,” said Long, adding that while the choice of fabric accounts for much of “Consumers would love to purchase it, but it’s not right for them or their lifestyle. the cost, embellishments are a key element. “The obvious trend right now is the We’re addressing a new consumer segment now.” ornamentation on the jeans and the back-pocket detail.” With the launch of Premium Patch, Wrangler will have premium brands in almost The cashmere jean and some novelty pieces will feature a new back pocket logo every distribution channel. Genuine Wrangler is available in midtier and upper-tier for the holiday season. retail channels and Wrangler 47 retails at high-end fashion boutiques and select When the company opened five years ago, it focused on producing jeans for the upper-tier retail channels. Premium Patch fills the void by targeting denim specialty 24- to 38 year-old male customer, a market that Long and co-founders and princi- stores and exclusive department stores. pals Jean Van De Wiel and Jeff Schaefer felt was underserved when it came to pre- Buzy-Pucheu has served as the executive vice president of merchandising and mium jeans. This decision had the added benefit of avoiding direct competition product development at Calvin Klein. She also has been a denim consultant for brands with the expanding women’s premium market. such as Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, J. Crew, Polo Jeans Co. and Tommy Hilfiger, and It quickly paid off. Sales reached the $8 million to $10 million range within two worked on a denim collaboration for Marc by Marc Jacobs. years, spurred by endorsements from Justin Timberlake, Antonio Sabatos and the McAdams predicted the Premium Patch collection will constitute 25 percent of the rock group Maroon 5. division’s total business. In 2004, VF’s Jeanswear Coalition, made up primarily of Neema Worldwide, which owns the Halston, Bill Blass and Haspel labels, took Wrangler and Lee, had sales of $2.66 billion, basically flat with the year before. note and purchased the assets of Da’mage in October, “This [premium] piece is really a significant volume piece,” he said. keeping its executive team in place and providing the — Lauren DeCarlo resources to make a bigger push into the market. The men’s and women’s lines are available in some 200 stores, including Henri Bendel and Saks Fifth Avenue, and retail from $190 to more than $500. As with all Da’mage jeans, the cashmere jean Seven Jeans Resolves Counterfeit Suit will be manufactured entirely in the U.S. While A lawsuit involving alleged sales of counterfeit Seven jeans at two midtown that ups the price, Long said it assures quality Manhattan retailers was resolved last week with a permanent injunction and con- and saves on time spent shipping product. sent judgment. “When we first started out, we wanted to find L’ K oral Inc., which does business as Seven For All Mankind LLC, filed a com- the places that would make the best jeans for us plaint in January against SSS Sales Co. and Robert Apfel Associates Inc. alleging regardless of price,” Long said. “In the violations on five counts, including trademark infringement and counterfeiting, Southeast, there were a lot of places that were unfair competition and false designation of origin. going out of business and needed business.” Under the terms of the agreement filed July 1 in the Southern District of New Some of those had previous experience in York, SSS Sales and Robert Apfel Associates were enjoined from manufacturing, the premium denim , making them a nat- distributing, and selling merchandise that uses unauthorized trademarks of Seven ural fit for the line. For All Mankind. Da’mage has been heralded for its all- Trademarks referenced in the judgment included pocket designs as well as the domestic manufacturing, but Long maintained brand name. Lawyers for both sides of the case could not immediately be reached that politically positive marketing doesn’t Da’mage’s for comment. make up for inadequate product. new According to the original complaint, the company has achieved sales of more than “We could make our jeans in the White House, cashmere $300 million in four years. The company has aggressively been pursuing counterfeit- but if they don’t look good people don’t care,” jeans.jeans. ers, filing more than a dozen suits across the nation over the last year, in preparation Long said. “We make them here in the States, for an expansion campaign geared at establishing itself as a lifestyle brand. really, because we think we get the best quality.” —Liza Casabona —Ross Tucker Dive in

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Make your plans and register today: REGISTRATION INFORMATION: 218.723.9792 EXHIBIT INFORMATION: 818.593.5000 10 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 7, 2005 WWD.COM The Beat INTERMIX Iisli This summer, Intermix opened a blazers Southampton boutique, and in mid- will be August, a 4,000-square-foot flagship hot at will open at 98 Prince Street in Intermix. SoHo, bringing the total number of Intermix stores to 10. The retailer, best known for outfitting women head to toe, carries about 200 brands Get It While It’s Hot at one time. “We cater to three life- NEW YORK — Retailers spend hours scouring trade shows and styles: day, night and weekend,” said showrooms in pursuit of what they hope will be the hottest and most- Khajak Keledjian, chief executive of- ficer of Intermix. coveted items of the season. While they’re always on the prowl for the This fall, Keledjian is anticipating next big thing, they also keep a keen eye out for innovative designers. the arrival of designer Mark Eisen’s Here, some of the city’s key specialty stores detail what rising designers new collection, Karoo, named for a re- gion in central South Africa, where they’ll carry for fall. Eisen spent his youth. “It’s a great — Lauren DeCarlo knitwear collection,” said Keledjian. “It’s fashion- forward, but wearable. It’s not your basic OLIVE AND BETTE’S cardigan. We’re looking at drapier tops you can wear Consumers browsing Olive and Bette’s four boutiques this with skinny jeans.” Karoo’s fall designs feature elon- fall can expect to see vibrant, rich colors with a twist of ethnic gated cashmere sweaters in black, navy, oatmeal and influences, but tweeds and velvets also will be added to the eggplant hues. Karoo will arrive at Intermix bou- mix. “Our consumer is looking for newness and freshness,” WWtiques by the end of this month. said owner Stacey Pecor. “She’s always looking for new design- 2 Keledjian also will carry LaRok this fall, which ers.” The boutiques carry roughly 30 brands consistently he calls “sexy and urban.” A capsule collection was throughout the season. What to Watch brought into the store in the middle of the summer, Pecor said she’ll be carrying designer Cynthia Steffe for the but, going forward, Intermix will carry a broader assort- first time this fall because Steffe’s “Russian Folklore”-themed ment. “We really like their product,” he said, and added, collection complements lines in stock such as Trina Turk and “But they don’t have a long shelf life. We’re selling out.” For Nanette Lapore. fall, he expects LaRok’s mirror-cardigan, adorned with quarter-inch “It looks expensive,” Pecor said of Steffe’s fall collection, of reflective pieces, and a shrunken, embroidered vest to be bestsellers. which Olive and Bette’s will carry five pieces. “LaRok is the gap between urban glamour and country chic,” he said. Pecor also revived a brand she hasn’t carried in recent sea- New York-based Iisli is also on Keledjian’s list of hot new brands. sons, Lu Lu Lame, thanks to its beaded cardigans adorned with Keledjian loves the two-year-old knitwear company’s jackets, which bows. The shirt collection Italy will arrive in September for the he describes as “a major trend.” Intermix will carry a bedazzled first time. “It’s a collection of western shirts in plaids and flo- shrunken blazer with three-quarter-length sleeves. “You can wear rals. Our blouse business is very strong,” said Pecor, adding that jacket from day to night,” he said. she’s also sticking with another shirt line, Fourtys, she picked up in the spring. Karoo makes its debut at Intermix. Twinkle, a collection best known for knits, also will make its debut at Olive and Bette’s for fall. “We’re bringing in tiered tu- nics and argyle sweaters from Twinkle,” Pecor said. In October, a line called Wendy Hill will arrive. Pecor especially loved the brand’s chiffon halter tops and its velvet, three-quar- ter-sleeved blazers. As far as bottoms go, Pecor is excited about the new pants line Jack, which she’ll carry for the first time in the fall. “It’s hard to find a really great new bottom resource,” she said, citing the hys- teria that surrounds denim companies these days. “Jack is a re- Olive and placement for denim. You can go out in it or wear it to work. The Bette’s fabrics are high quality.” Jack will hit shelves in August. will carry For denim devotees, Pecor picked up a denim line for fall Meli-Melo called Meli-Melo, particularly for its trouser jean. “I think it’s jeansjeans forfor a little more dressed up, but for fall, our customer demands a fall. bit more of a dressed-up look,” Pecor said.

SCOOP Scoop’s Metallics and velvets will rule the racks at Scoop, the 11-unit retailer, private this fall. The store is issuing a handful of exclusives this fall such as a label ballet private label ballet slipper in velvet and metallic leather and rhine- slipper stone headbands in black velvet. In keeping with the Audrey comes in Hepburn-ish, ladylike-chic theme, Seven For All Mankind and Scoop velvet and have developed the Audrey, a midcalf, sexy, fitted slim jean, for $145. metallic “This fall, we’re looking at very tailored, simple, beautiful leather. things,” said Danielle de Marne, the retailer’s director of spe- cial projects. Scoop will pick up the Brazilian collection Daslu for fall. “It’s been doing amazing down there,” de Marne said, adding let inspiration flow that the collection consists of ready-to-wear, accessories and shoes. timeless innovation. Milla, a London-based contemporary line, also will launch at Scoop this fall. “This is their first collec- timely service. tion and when we saw them, we loved them,” de Marne said. The drapy tops are a great comple- the world over. ment to denim. Susan Denner’s collection of hand-knit cardigans called Sunner will make its debut at the store come fall. Key pieces include hand-knit cardigans, retailing between $315 and $385, and belted www.symphonyfabrics.com turtleneck dresses, retailing for $235. 229 West 36th Street De Marne is excited for another New York, NY 10018 sweater collection, Candela, to hit p 212.244.6700 | f 212.736.0123 shelves. The collection consists of bohemian sweaters such as tradi- Symphony West tional cardigans with flashes of 860 South Los Angeles Street metallic sewn in and belled and Suite 702 Los Angeles, CA 90014 tiered corduroy skirts. p 213.627.7381 | f 213.228.1943 Scoop also will pick up select pieces from The Denim Doctor, based in Los Angeles. The Denim Doctor refurbishes old pairs of Levi’s, in both denim and corduroy. WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 7, 2005 11 WWD.COM Denim Report Adding Some Salt to Premium Market

By Rusty Williamson First-year wholesale volume has exceeded plan at $7 million, said Steve Greenfield, sales director, who forecast strong growth next year as the company pre- DALLAS — The strength of the denim market — pares for a European expansion set to begin July 22 in Berlin at the Bread & Butter epitomized by the rise of the premium jeans mar- trade show. Other venues this year will include trade fairs in ket in the last five years — has led to questions Switzerland, Italy, Austria, Portugal and Spain. Along with its about when and how the denim bubble may burst. Manhattan headquarters, Salt Works has U.S. regional distribution The premium jeans segment accounts for only at showrooms in Dallas, Los Angeles and Atlanta. an estimated 3 percent of what is believed to be a “Our European distributors discovered Salt Works while $6.84 billion women’s jeans market. shopping in New York and approached us this spring about an Data suggests the segment will continue to international rollout,” said Greenfield, a denim-industry vet- strengthen. Jeans costing $60 or more had a mar- eran who has worked at Earl Jean, Todd Oldham Jeans, ket share of 5.8 percent for the year ended in WWReplay and AG Adriano Goldschmied. February, according to The NPD Group, a market 2 “We think European women are going to really appreciate research company based in Port Washington, N.Y. the antiflash approach that we take with the The contemporary denim market continues to What to Watch jeans and instead concentrate on fit and style at a become more crowded, competitive and pricier, price that’s understandable and approachable. driven by expensive finishes such as metallic European women, like American women, are ask- threads and rivets, beading and embellishment, de- ing for jeans that have a cleaner identity.” signer name-brand cachet and exclusivity. Among He said several major Swiss retail chains had the lengthy list of contemporary competitors are already previewed Salt Works and written orders. Frankie B., Hot Kiss, People of Peace, Request, “We are definitely in a growth mode both in True Religion, Allen B., Glo Jeans, Calvin Klein the U.S. and abroad,” Greenfield said. “When we Jeans, DKNY Jeans, Guess, Joe’s Jeans, Epoch, launched the line, we knew that the denim mar- Hudson, Heatherette and Yanuk, along with ket was already very crowded and that we needed European brands such as Rifle and Super Rifle, a way to differentiate Salt Works from the over- Denim Birds, Richmond Jeans and Superfine. the-top processed styles. We looked at price Among the most recent entries is Salt Works, a points, fabrics with a forgiving nature and silhou- New York-based denim company that has just ettes that could be dressed up or down. Within closed the books on its first year of business. But Salt Works favors simplicity and style in its designs. our five basic styles, we offer several washes and don’t even think about looking for holes, rips, various degrees of whiskering.” flashy finishes, extreme low rises or overblown labels at Salt Works. The company es- For fall, Salt Works offers five styles that retail from $125 to $150, all named after chews them in favor of basic shapes, soft washes, premium denim construction and a New York streets and marketed to women ages 20 to 50, depending on rise and leg comfortably snug but forgiving fit. width. There’s also a small men’s collection that is similarly priced, along with some Salt Works’ philosophy has been embraced by 500 specialty accounts across the graphic T-shirts. For fall, women’s styles include Avenue A, a low-rise flare with an 8- U.S., including Henri Bendel, Scoop, Barneys New York, Intermix and inch rise and a 21-inch bottom opening; Orchard Street, a low-rise fashion flare with Bloomingdale’s, all in New York, and The Jean Connection in Dallas. The label was an 8-inch rise and 21-inch bottom opening with a snap pocket on the back, and launched last fall by company owner and president Salomon Smeke. Mulberry Street, a boot-cut jean with a 9-inch rise and 18-inch leg opening. WWD.COM Active LifestyleX

Female athletes are attracting more sponsors, while sport companies are injecting lifestyle looks into their lines for fall.

SPONSORSHIPS STEP UP NEW YORK — Marketers seem to have finally woken up to the power of female athletes. Huge endorsement deals traditionally have been rare in women’s sports, but a new crop of female athletes is challenging the status quo. Even though she didn’t repeat as Wimbledon on Saturday, Maria Sharapova is one of the highest paid female athletes in history, earning about $18 million last year. While that figure pales in comparison to the $87 million Tiger Woods racked up in 2004, it’s clear female athletes are being taken more seriously and are beginning to garner the kind of endorsement contracts that largely have eluded women champions in the past. Annika Sorenstam, one the world’s most successful Marketers are circling golfer Michelle Wie and Indy female golfers, earned about $7.3 million last year. Racing League driver Danica Patrick. “When it comes to endorsement deals, the gap is shrinking between male and female athletes,” think she has the right stuff and she won’t be a fad. said Marc Ganis, president of SportsCorp, a As soon as the contracts she has expire, the new Chicago-based sports marketing agency. “Shara- ones will be for far greater amounts.” pova is setting a new bar.” Wie, who is still an amateur, has yet to sign any Among the companies with which Sharapova endorsement deals due to her status, although now has deals are Nike, Tag Heuer, Prince and marketers are circling, Levy said. At this point, the Canon. 15-year-old seems to be hedging her bets, at least Dan Levy, director of women’s sports at Octagon, when it comes to apparel. She wears Nike and the global sports marketing firm, said, “There is a Adidas as well as other brands when she plays. great deal of enthusiasm now for elite female ath- “Everyone is paying attention to Wie now,” letes. More girls are playing sports than ever Levy noted. before. Compared to what it was, there While women are making strides have been significant strides in the with larger endorsement deals, con- endorsement deals women athletes tracts probably won’t reach the are getting now.” highest level of men’s anytime Indy Racing League driver soon, since men still watch far Danica Patrick and golfer more sports than women and Michelle Wie are a few of the women’s sports do not get the young female athletes who are WWkind of TV exposure that men’s likely to rack up significant 2 do, Levy noted. endorsement deals, sports mar- But it takes more than just win- keting experts said. Despite plac- What to Watch ning to gain the eye of marketers ing fourth at the Indy 500 race in and consumers. Olympic gymnast May, Patrick stole the show and was and gold medalist Carly Patterson is an the subject of numerous stories in the example. Despite her big win at last year’s press. The 23-year-old placed higher than any Summer Games in Athens, Patterson has all but woman ever had at the annual race and was disappeared from the public eye. named “Rookie of the Year” for 2005. “Gymnastics is something a lot of people only Patrick, who is petite and attractive, already think about every four years at the Olympics,” has deals lined up with fashion retailer Bebe and Levy said. “A lot of this depends on the sport. For racing-specific companies such as Bell, a helmet example, players are more high-profile and company, and it’s likely more sponsorship will be their matches are international and are often on coming soon. the networks. Those players get far more money on “Whether she becomes a dominant racer or not, their apparel and footwear deals than colleagues all she has to do is be competitive with the men,” in other sports.” Ganis said. “Her appeal is extraordinary, and I — Melanie Kletter

SPORT MEETS THE STREET NEW YORK — Sporting goods companies of all stripes are moving from the playing field to the street for their coming collections. While athletic firms have been steadily fusing function with fashion in the last few years, this fall and holiday may be the most fashionable yet, as a number of new lines from old-guard companies are taking the lifestyle route. In addition, a number of retro sport brands are staging a comeback with collections that build on their heritage. Among the new developments this fall: Nike is launching a Michael Jordan women’s line with street-inspired looks, is rolling out its Filativa line for younger customers and is building up its fashion looks with a new footwear collection designed in conjunction with Alexander McQueen. Adidas has found success with its heritage division that takes looks directly from its archives, as well as its fashion collaborations with Stella McCartney and Yohji Yamamoto, while retro brands such as Le Coq Sportif, Lotto and are being relaunched. Some wonder, however, whether the sport lifestyle arena is getting too crowded. The Adidas Missy Elliott collection, Respect M.E., which is part of the company’s heritage divi- sion, is being revamped after a slow start, company execu- tives said. A number of other sport-inspired labels also have relaunched in recent years, including Fred Perry, Lacoste Respect M.E., and Penguin, and many of those brands now compete with the Adidas the more traditional sport lines. Missy Elliott Orna Amzaleg, co-owner of athletic footwear and appar- line, has been el retailer Sportie L.A., said, “There is room for these revamped brands as long as they do it right.” for fall. She said her company has seen strong interest in track jack- ets from brands such as Hummel and Members Only, and looks from Italian sport companies such as . “People don’t want an entire head-to-toe look, though,” she said. “They like to pair track jackets with jeans. It gives these looks a fresh fashion spin.” — M.K.

▲ Filativa, a new line from Fila, is designed for a younger crowd. WIE PHOTO BY DOUG DENSINGER/GETTY IMAGES; PATRICK BY BARRY TAYLOR/WIREIMAGE.COM; FILA BY KEITH SMITH FILA BY BARRY TAYLOR/WIREIMAGE.COM; BY DOUG DENSINGER/GETTY IMAGES; PATRICK WIE PHOTO BY

14 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 7, 2005 WWD.COM Spring didn’t just bring May flowers this year — it also brought plenty of new visitors to retailers’ Web sites. Below, a listing of the sites with the largest number of unique TheWWDList hits from females during the month of May, and some examples of what these sites have done, or are doing, to attract even more customers. Data was provided by comScore Media Metrix, which tracked more than 25 million unique visitors to 1,331 different retail Web sites in May. The female audience consisted of women in the U.S. at home, work or college locations. The company tracks Web sites in terms of their property levels, or whether the site provides information on all of a retailer’s brands, as do the sites for Limited Brands, Foot Locker and Nike. Others focus on only one Women’s Views subsidiary, such as Gap.com, which doesn’t mention the group’s other entities — Old The top retail apparel Web sites in May ranked by number of female unique visitors. Navy (ranked at number five), and Banana Republic. — Cecily Hall LIMITED BRANDS Number of female unique visitors: 3.9 million The Columbus, Ohio-based retail group encompasses The Limited, Victoria’s Secret, Express, Henri Bendel, The White Barn Candle Co. and Bath & Body Works. Limited.com provides breakdowns regarding new fashions and open jobs for each of its brands, a store locator, company 1 news and corporate information. Its Express brand, for example, reveals top looks for men and women, along with inside news and fashions at expressfashion.com.

OTTO GROUP Number of female unique visitors: 3.5 million Otto Group’s core business is multichannel retail, which includes catalogue sales, e-commerce and retail store sales. Driving much of the online business is Crate & Barrel, but Freemans of London and two German joint ventures, Zara Deutschland GmbH and Massimo Dutti, are among 2 Otto Group’s apparel hits. The company stated that it is continuing to establish its position as the second-biggest online retailer to consumers after Seattle-based Amazon.com.

OLD NAVY Number of female unique visitors: 3.4 million Oldnavy.com is an exact representation of its stores and its advertisements. The site is flashy and colorful, with its low prices and trendy bargains plastered across its pages. This retailer carries clothing for females young and old, including babies, children, teenagers, adults, plus- 3 sized women and moms-to-be. Other general perks on the site include $5 shipping on every order (to all 50 U.S. states as well as to APO and FPO addresses that serve U.S. military personnel abroad), an impressive sale section and sweepstakes and contests for its readers.

NORDSTROM Number of female unique visitors: 2.4 million Nordstrom has the distinction of being the only department store on the list. The company pointed out that it recently updated the look and feel of its department landing pages and navigation area, which resulted in improved design and functionality. With guided navigation, customers can 4 further filter their search results by product category, brand, color and size. This is a useful feature for Nordstrom, where the product selection is vast — a search for “shoes” returns more than 4,000 products. This year, Nordstrom switched to a $5 flat rate for shipping, regardless of the dollar value of the order. Since 2000, Nordstrom has had a live chat feature on its Web site.

GAP Number of female unique visitors: 2.2 million Right off the bat, Gap advertises both new and sale products on its home page — kids will be distressed to learn the “Back to School” feature is already on the page, as well. Web site perks include free shipping on orders of $100 or more, while GapCard users get free shipping on orders 5 over $50. The company noted that enhancements to the site are mainly based on feedback from consumers and what they want in an online shopping experience. Gapbody.com, for example, provides its shoppers with detailed breakdowns of the various types of bras sold.

ALLOY Number of female unique visitors: 1.9 million Alloy Inc., based in New York City, has thrived on its popularity with Gen-Yers. Alloy offers the latest styles by top name brands and encourages girls, ages 12 to 18, to have fun and be fashionable. Part of Alloy.com is even dedicated to celebrity gossip. Alloy’s latest enhancement is the 6 “Denim Destination” shop, part of the newly designed Alloy online store (store.alloy.com), which helps girls find the perfect pair of jeans. Its user-friendly design allows teens to view jeans on models and to view denim from all angles, with zoom options for close-up details. The shop also carries such features as a Fit Guide, the Denim Dictionary and Denim Do’s and Don’ts.

ZAPPOS.COM Number of female unique visitors: 1.7 million As one of the more well-known and well-advertised Web sites devoted to shoes, Zappos.com carries more than 75,000 styles currently on the site, with more than 1.7 million pairs of shoes and handbags in stock at its Kentucky warehouse. The site, which was founded in 1999, offers free 7 outbound and return shipping as well as a 365-day return policy (shoppers can return their purchase anytime within one year). The company also pointed out that sales were just less than $2 million in 2000 and are now on target to bring in more than $300 million in 2005.

NIKE Number of female unique visitors: 1.4 million Popularity with females can be found in two of Beaverton, Ore.-based Nike’s Web sites: nikewomen.com, a site geared specifically toward 8 women, and nikeid.com, which relaunched on March 31. This site is dedicated to footwear, where people can customize their own shoes. Regarding nikewomen.com, the company pointed to its different areas devoted to activities for women such as tennis, yoga and running. The site offers sports-specific apparel, and visitors can download workout music, as well. Visitors also are updated on the latest events such as schedules for various Niketown Running Clubs across the country.

CHADWICK’S Number of female unique visitors: 1.3 million Chadwick’s, owned by Redcats USA, was founded in 1983 as the nation’s first off-price fashion catalogue for women. Chadwick’s Web site reveals straightforward, friendly presentation and easy-to-shop departments for women. Customers can create their own personal shopping experiences, 9 utilizing shopping tools along the way such as a Fashion Glossary and the Shopping Basket, which tracks each item up for purchase. The Web site also offers Web-only merchandise and expanded categories such as “Social Dressing” in order to capture new customers.

FOOT LOCKER Number of female unique visitors: 1.2 million Under the New York City-based Foot Locker parent umbrella falls Foot Locker itself, Lady Foot Locker, Kids Foot Locker, Champs Sports and its 10 direct-to-customer channel, footlocker.com/eastbay. Ladyfootlocker.com offers its visitors easy navigation with its shoe search, providing sport types and size options. The site also breaks down its most valuable picks, including a sale section and popular apparel items. Included on the home page is Lady Locker Launches, a section devoted to soon-to-be sold items. Popular footwear names such as Nike, , Adidas, , Puma and are all sold here.

SOURCE: COMSCORE MEDIA METRIX, A DIVISION OF COMSCORE NETWORKS INC. All the best for your family. 16 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 7, 2005 WWD.COM Retail Shares Retreat Bendel’s Presents Bésame at Breakfast NEW YORK — The 100-plus trade and consumer ins and improve the skin’s clarity, according to the On Rising Fuel Costs beauty editors that convened recently for Henri company — in August. The candy will retail for $25 Bendel’s beauty breakfast were treated to a vari- a pound. In August, Borba also will launch Borba NEW YORK — After rallying be- and traditional department ety of findings, from both new Cosmeceuticals, a topical skin hind Wal-Mart Stores Inc. with stores, consistent with recent and more established brands. care line divided into four cate- its better-than-expected sales trends and a testament to the re- “There was no focus on a spe- gories: clarifying, replenishing, gain for June, shares in the re- silience of the luxury consumer cific category — it was an all- BEAUTY BEAT age-defying and firming, ranging tail sector took it on the chin and the fashion cycle.” around event. In the past, we have from $30 to $80. Wednesday as oil reached a Bernstein Research analyst been slightly specific,” said Claudia Lucas, senior — Sarah Ascione and Ashley Moore record $61 a barrel. Emme Kozloff echoed that senti- vice president and general merchandising manag- Along with other major in- ment in a note Wednesday, say- er for Henri Bendel, citing that the breakfast held dices, the S&P Retail Index fell ing that “June experienced more this past January focused on new skin care lines. Agent Provocateur’s Birthday Gift 0.85 percent at the bell to 446.32, seasonable temperatures [than While many of the firms featured at the event — LONDON — Agent Provocateur is on the scent of while shares of Wal-Mart closed May] with heat waves hitting from Trish McEvoy to Benefit — were familiar, a something big — a 1,000-ml. bottle of its signature down 0.8 percent to $49.38. On pockets of the country. In terms few introductions stood out, including Bésame, a fragrance, to be precise. Tuesday, Wal-Mart shares jumped of the subsectors, we expect the Forties-inspired cosmetic line, and Molinard 1849 To celebrate the brand’s 10th birthday, the 3.15 percent to $49.80 after the teen retailers to be standouts fragrances by Molinard, a French perfumer. Brands saucy British lingerie label has created 300 bot- world’s largest retailer said June followed by high-end retailers.” such as Frédéric Fekkai, Chanel and NARS also tles of the supersized fragrance, a flacon that’s 10 same-store sales would show a The Bernstein analyst said gas will be new to Bendel’s next season, said Lucas. times the size of the original 100-ml. eau de par- gain of 4.5 percent, which is prices at the pump this June “av- fum, which was launched in 2000. ahead of the company’s previous eraged $2.20, which is flat to last Presented in the same style porcelain atomizer forecast of a 2 to 4 percent gain. month [this includes the 4 per- bottle, which preserves the scent, the fragrance is On Tuesday, investors read the cent increase in the past two priced at 395 pounds, or $719 at current exchange, improved sales results at bell- weeks] and 9 percent higher than and will launch in the U.K. this month at Harrods, wether Wal-Mart as a sign that last year. Given the lag in pump Selfridges and all Agent Provocateur stores. consumers were back to their prices versus oil prices, we will Beginning next month, it will roll into Europe spending ways despite rising fuel be monitoring this trend closely.” and the U.S., bowing at its stores in New York, Las prices. But as crude oil topped David Cumberland, analyst at Vegas and Los Angeles. The scent will be priced at $61 a barrel on Wednesday, in- Baird’s U.S. Equity Research unit, The Bésame line. $775 in the U.S. The firm’s Web site, agentprovo- vestor jitters returned. said in his report that “gas prices GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY cateur.com, also offers customers the chance to Still, analysts remained bullish have increased 19 percent on a For brands such as Bésame and Molinard, the win one of the limited-edition bottles, packaged in on June comps, most of which are trailing 12-month basis [through breakfast was a way “to give vendors an opportu- the original soft pink box lined with black satin. released today. In several pre- June 27], indicating sustained nity to show new brands, those who wouldn’t get The scent combines top notes of saffron and co- views, analysts called for the teen pressure on consumer spending.” the press exposure,” she said. Bésame chief cre- riander with a heart of rose oil, jasmine, magnolia apparel retailers and the luxury In a Legg Mason consumer ative officer Gabriela Hernandez, who attended oil, ylang-ylang and white gardenia flowers. The channel to do well. Indeed, Am- spending survey and report, gas the breakfast in Forties-style garb, said she creat- base notes comprise vetiver, amber and musk. erican Eagle Outfitters Inc. said prices “had a more severe impact ed a line that reflects “post-World War II history.” — Ellen Burney after the market closed that June on consumer spending-budgeting, Lucas described the line as “quite whimsical,” comps gained 28 percent. as ‘significant’ impact responses adding, “We loved her passion.” Launching at Deborah Weinswig, equity ana- rose nearly 400 basis points.” The Bendel’s in October, Bésame features nine prod- lyst at Citigroup Smith Barney, survey also found that two-thirds ucts, including Enhancing Lipstick, $20, as well as said in a preview note that the of consumers indicated there a Vanity Case for $68 that holds a concealer, high-end department stores “such would be at least “some” impact translucent powder, blush and three eye shadows. as Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom on spending-budgeting due to Molinard presented Molinard 1849, a collection and Saks Fifth Avenue are still higher fuel prices. of seven scents for seven types of women, according likely to outperform the moderate — Arthur Zaczkiewicz to the company. Fragrances range from Habanita, a mix of oriental and exotic florals, to Nirmala, a blend of vanilla and passion fruit, and will retail for either $185 or $295. Each fragrance is packaged in a 3.4-oz. vintage color glass bottle, taken from a 1921 Canadian Apparel Workers Lalique mold, with a gold-tassel atomizer spray. In addition, Borba, an ingestible skin care line that has been with Bendel’s since January, will launch Borba Skin Balance Confections — an as- The Agent Provocateur Push for Trade Safeguards sortment of jelly beans and gummy bears that con- 1,000-ml. bottle. tain a bio-vitamin complex that helps remove tox- By Brian Dunn

MONTREAL — Canada’s main apparel workers union is lobbying the government to follow the lead of the U.S. and European Union and take steps to limit the growth of surging apparel im- ports from China. AOL Reveals Top Search Picks The union, UNITE HERE Canada, wants the Canadian Inter- national Trade Tribunal to review the impact that soaring Chinese NEW YORK — So, what’s hot this summer? 35 million AOL users between April and mid-June. imports are having on the domestic industry, noting that apparel im- If America Online’s top search terms are any Ivey said she was surprised by how many ports from China have increased 40 percent in the first four months indication, the people, places and things draw- brands of sunglasses commanded searches be- of this year compared with the same period a year ago. In some cate- ing the most interest in their categories include cause it is a category that typically draws more gories, UNITE HERE said imports are up more than 200 percent. Speedo swimwear, Oakley sunglasses, Angelina AOL searches by style than by name, or via the Employment in the industry in Canada has also declined to Jolie, cosmopolitans and Las Vegas. word sunglasses. Other categories, such as jeans 55,000 in April from 70,000 in January 2004. Speedo, Venus, Miraclesuit, Roxy, Vix, Gottex, and swimwear, tend to elicit more brand searches, The U.S. has imposed safeguard quotas, a mechanism China Jantzen, Calvin Klein, Anne Cole, and Carol Wior she added. agreed to when it joined the World Trade Organization in 2001, were the leaders in swimwear. Among the 10 As for the celebs who captured the most interest, that limits China’s growth of exports to 7.5 percent annually on a swimwear styles most searched for in the AOL Paris Hilton placed second after Jolie, with Lindsay range of apparel and textile categories. The EU reached an agree- Search Index were: Lohan next, then ment with China to limit growth to 8.5 to 12 percent on a host of swimsuits, bikinis, Jessica Simpson, Brad products through 2007. plus-size swimsuits, We have seen a lot more Pitt, Hayden Christen- If the trade tribunal agrees with the union, the Canadian gov- , micro biki- “ sen, Pamela Anderson, ernment will face making a final decision on whether to impose nis, tankinis, board- practical [fashion] styles being Britney Spears, Mariah safeguards. UNITE HERE has the support of 19 clothing manu- shorts, thong bikinis, Carey and Rosario facturers, including suit maker Samuelsohn Ltd., based here. swim dresses and searched for. Dawson. But the Ottawa-based Canadian Apparel Federation, which string bikinis. ”— Sarah Ivey, AOL Search Among the liba- represents apparel manufacturers, said that rather than intro- Gucci, Maui Jim, tions most likely to be duce tariffs, Ottawa should eliminate levies on textile imports to Ray Ban, Prada, Versace, Christian Dior, Revo, enjoyed this summer, cosmos ranked first, fol- help domestic manufacturers cut costs. Imposing quotas on Bolle and Costa Del Mar sunglasses completed lowed by the martini, margarita, sangria, mojito, Chinese clothing alone will merely force manufacturers to im- the list of top 10 brands looked up in the eyewear Gibson, mint julep, Bloody Mary, appletini, piña port clothing from other low-cost countries that don’t face similar category. colada, sex on the beach and Long Island iced tea. restrictions, the federation said. All WTO member countries “We have seen a lot more practical [fashion] And just where might the crowds be heading? eliminated apparel and textile quotas this year. styles being searched for,” said Sarah Ivey, Florida had the second-most searches after Las “Our complaint is valid, but we’ll see how Ottawa reacts, given search trends analyst at AOL Search. “People Vegas, with Myrtle Beach, S.C., third, then Hawaii, it’s a union filing the complaint and not an industry group or might think of outdoorsy or sporty brands like Mexico, Puerto Rico, Costa Rica, Italy, Niagra company,” Lina Aristeo, Quebec director of UNITE HERE. “But Oakley and Speedo as practical.” Falls, Jamaica, California and Washington, D.C. if Ottawa doesn’t do something, it will only get worse.” The top inquiries were based on the activity of — Valerie Seckler One city + One location = One MAGIC marketplace bringing record results! PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY WWDMAGIC Preview WWDMAGIC 1st Day Coated Stock Supplement: August 15 Section II: August 29 Close: July 11 Close: August 11

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For more information, contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p., group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 18 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 7, 2005 WWD.COM Hong Kong Uncertain UPS Delivers Fourth Fashion Tent By Marc Karimzadeh About Future Quotas NEW YORK — Short-sleeved brown shirts and shorts could well become the rage with emerging designers By Vicki Rothrock come Olympus Fashion Week in September. Seventh on Sixth struck a long-term partner- HONG KONG — Feeling unsure about what the future will bring ship deal with UPS, which will sponsor a fourth when it comes to quotas isn’t a new scenario for those in the textile tent in Bryant Park dedicated exclusively to fos- and apparel industries here. tering emerging talent. UPS is paying for the con- The U.S. enacted emergency safeguard quotas last month. This struction of the tent, which will carry the name TIM BOYLE/GETTY IMAGES PHOTO BY eliminated part of the uncertainty of when it would happen, but “UPS Delivers Fashion’s Future,” and the courier companies here still are wondering, among other things, if the service will pick up the venue rental fee for the growth cap for seven categories coming out of China will stay at chosen designers. 7.5 percent this year or if the U.S. and China can reach an agree- “We think it’s a great step forward and some- ment on how to move forward within the allotted time frame. thing that we have been championing for a long Seventh on Sixth has inked a long-term deal with UPS. According to World Trade Organization rules, the U.S. and time, looking for a way to help young designers,” China need to begin the first consultation 30 days after the impo- Fern Mallis, executive director of 7th on Sixth and which even featured a male model on the runway sition of quotas. The first three category quotas were applied May vice president of IMG, said Wednesday. in a UPS uniform, and last year, the company was a 23 and the next four were effective as of May 27. The fourth tent will offer seating and standing sponsor for B. Michael’s runway presentation. In The two sides didn’t meet and talk face-to-face, but they did room for 300, with features such as a fully equipped Paris, UPS is also sponsoring the couture presenta- have a video conference on June 16, which fulfilled the 30-day re- backstage area and professionals on hand to tions this week for designers such as Adam Jones, quirement, said Peter Liu, chairman of the textile and apparel arrange the lighting, sound and overall production. Felipe Oliveira Baptista and On Aura Tout Vu. committee at the American Chamber of Commerce in Hong Kong. A panel of industry experts is being created to “We wanted to demonstrate that we are fur- The two sides now have 90 days to come up with an agreement. If choose up to 10 participating designers. The require- thering our commitment with the fashion indus- they fail to come up with a deal, then the cap will stay at 7.5 per- ments are that the designer must have been in busi- try,” said Karen Cole, a spokeswoman for UPS. cent through the end of the year. ness for at least one year and must have sold the col- Cole declined to disclose the size of the invest- The local press here reported on June 24 that James Leonard, lection to stores for at least two seasons. Further in- ment, but noted this was UPS’ largest contribution deputy assistant secretary from the U.S. Commerce Department, formation is available on olympusfashionweek.com. to the fashion industry so far. was in Beijing for formal talks that would include textile exports. “Young designers are always part of Fashion “We want to let the industry know, particularly However, there haven’t been any reports on formal talks in the Week and even more want to be a part of it,” the emerging designers, that we understand the following days. Liu said he spoke with Leonard last week and Mallis said. “This will give young designers an op- business of fashion,” said Cole, noting that UPS is Leonard confirmed he wasn’t present for formal talks. Leonard portunity to be seen in front of a wider audience, available in more than 200 countries and can ship said he would be in Beijing a couple of days before the Sino-U.S. and the most important press, buyers, retailers samples back and forth across borders or hold Joint Commission on Commerce and Trade meeting, which will and fashionistas.” merchandise until it is paid for by the recipient. begin July 11 in Beijing, according to Liu. This isn’t UPS’ first involvement with Fashion “We are not just the guys in brown walking the These emergency quotas are affecting business “big time,” Week. In 2003, it sponsored Miguel Adrover’s show, streets of the Garment District.” said Doug Sheridan, director and general manager at privately held sourcing firm Lark Apparel Holdings Ltd. The company, which has 90 employees in eight offices worldwide, has rerouted 20 percent of its fourth-quarter China business to Vietnam and Cambodia in response to the U.S. move. In addition, Sheridan said the company won’t bring certain Le Château Eyeing Expansion categories into the U.S. because the quota will be fulfilled before they can get them shipped. By Brian Dunn Jersey City, N.J. The U.S. opera- spent $32 million over the last Some categories, such as cotton sweaters, won’t last long under tions reported a net loss of three years on store renovations the 7.5 percent cap. Liu anticipates this quota already could be MONTREAL — Specialty retail- $81,000 for the first quarter and plans an additional $18 mil- filled. This creates a problem for companies that have shipments er Le Château is negotiating ended April 30 versus a loss of lion this year for upgrades and in route, and for companies who are getting ready to ship. with a French licensor as part $75,000 a year earlier. The com- new store openings. Companies are no longer able to acquire quota prior to trans- of its first expansion outside pany blames the loss on the high “The new store design re- porting the goods. It’s now functioning on a first-come, first- North America. rents at its two Manhattan stores. flects our new brand image of served basis as shipments arrive in the U.S. It is chaotic because The unnamed French part- By comparison, Le Château catering to a slightly older clien- no one knows when the last shipment should come out of China, ner operates 600 stores and car- as a whole earned $3.7 million, tele,” Rocchi said. “We’re get- Liu said. “It’s a guessing game.” ries well-known fashion brands, or 63 cents, up from $1.7 million, ting rid of the old clubby image The China Chamber of Commerce for the Import and Export Le Château’s chief executive of- or 33 cents, a year ago. Sales in our stores. Eventually, the of Textiles, however, recently published for the first time statis- ficer, Herschal Segal, said here rose 20 percent to $49 million. other four U.S. stores will also tics on the clearance rates of restricted categories, according to a during the company’s recent All figures have been converted get a design makeover.” June 29 China Daily article. annual meeting. The initial test- from Canadian dollars at the Although it is test-marketing According to the article, shipments of cotton trousers exceed- ing of three Le Château stores current exchange rate. other countries, Canada will re- ed 103 percent of the year’s quota for the U.S. by June 23. Shirts in undisclosed locations could Unlike the other four U.S. main Le Château’s primary were at 97 percent and underwear came in at 84.7 percent only be announced within the next stores, the one in New Jersey focus, said company president one month after the quota imposition. few months, he added. will be based on the new store Emilia Di Raddo, with more em- These figures aren’t in line with U.S. figures because the U.S. The company operates 174 design being implemented in phasis on expanding into sec- can only account for what has already arrived, the article said. stores in Canada and four in the Canada, explained Franco ondary markets. Le Château Updates will be posted on the chamber Web site, according to the New York area, with a fifth Rocchi, vice president of sales plans to open 12 to 15 stores in China Daily. scheduled to open this fall in and operations. Le Château has Canada this year, Di Raddo said. In theory, “China is going to be in some trouble. 2005 is going to be a tough year for Chinese manufacturers,” Lark’s Sheridan said. Regarding U.S. pressure on China to reevaluate the yuan, the general sentiment here is that it will happen eventually, but China is a country that cannot and will not be pushed. U.N.: China Should Not Bow to Currency Pressure “It’s just not going to happen overnight,” because China has a lot of people — 1.3 billion — and needs to ensure the move isn’t By John Zarocostas itive disadvantage. too disruptive, Sheridan said. The U.S. has to stop pushing and Kinniburgh said an alternative to revaluation is “let the economics of the situation take over.” GENEVA — China should resist international pres- for China to tax its exports. A tax would have “the Liu, however, thinks the most direct reason for the safeguard sure to revalue its currency, the United Nations’ same trade effect as a revaluation” but fewer con- quotas is because the Bush administration needed textile votes to top economist said last week. sequences for China’s financial system, he said. help pass the Central American Free Trade Agreement. The U.S. “I don’t think the Chinese should be pressured Federal Reserve Board chairman Alan Senate passed it 54 to 45 last week, but the agreement is expected to revalue,’’ Ian Kinniburgh, U.N. director of eco- Greenspan last week testified before the Senate to face a tougher battle in the House of Representatives. nomic and social affairs, said in a telephone inter- Finance Committee that imposing tariffs on Hong Kong Customs also has stepped up its enforcement view. “They should wait until they feel safe to put Chinese imports would have a negative impact on measures since the emergency quotas were issued. The move fol- their feet in the water. They still need to improve the U.S. economy and pressuring China for a lowed a 17.3 percent drop in illegal transshipments of textiles in their financial system.” more flexible exchange rate would not boost man- the first five months of the year compared with the same period Surging imports of low-cost Chinese manufac- ufacturing and jobs. last year, and a 34.2 percent drop in Outward Processing tured goods and the sharp increase in China’s In a report, “World Economic Situation and Arrangement abuse cases, according to a department statement. trade surplus with the U.S. have intensified calls Prospects as of Mid-2005,” issued Wednesday, the Quotas were abolished Jan. 1. by domestic manufacturers, members of Congress U.N. estimated the U.S.’s current account deficit From the period between May 23 and June 18, officers seized and some in the Bush administration for Beijing will grow to more than $700 billion this year, com- 242,000 textile and clothing products valued at 5.4 million Hong to revalue its currency, the yuan. pared with $650 billion in 2004. Kong dollars, or $692,308, that were being smuggled in and out of China has maintained an exchange rate of U.N. economists estimated that China’s econo- Hong Kong, according to the statement. The seized goods fell 8.28 yuan to $1 since 1995. Opponents of Chinese my will expand by 9 percent this year, driven by under three categories: false declaration, inflation of quantity trade policy say the yuan is artificially underval- exports and high levels of investment, and antici- and false labeling. ued, lowering prices of exports by as much as 40 pate a slowdown in the growth of the U.S. econo- percent and putting U.S. companies at a compet- my to 3 percent from 4.4 percent in 2004. WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 7, 2005 19

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Industry Experience a Plus. existing customers; tracking retail sales Fax Resume to 212-779-8183 and maintaining appropriate stock levels. Will work closely with merchandising & Graphic Artist Production Patternmaker product development teams. Must have 3-D CAD DESIGNER Fast-paced Private Label Mfr. seeks established contacts in men’s apparel Major childrens apparel company highly skilled individual to join our industry. Experience in denim market Home Textile Firm seeking a 3D CAD seeks Graphic Artist to create prints team. Product includes tailored jackets preferred. Must be available to travel. Designer w/2 years minimum experience. and artworks from a sketch or to tweak as well as bottoms. Candidate MUST We offer a dynamic work environment! Must have strong computer skills, be from existing print/artwork. Position have the capability to follow tech packs Please e-mail resume Attn: Rhea highly creative, a team player, self- may also include a certain amount of for specs/construction along w/complete [email protected] motivated, detail oriented, and able to paperwork such as helping to create understanding of garment balance and product packages. Must know Illustrator multi-task. Advanced Adobe Photoshop drape. Fax resume to: (212) 239-1610 &Illustrator skills a must. Please Fax & Photoshop. Account Executive or E-mail resumes to Suzanna at: Please fax resume 212-239-2766 Reputable ACCESSORY wholesaler based 212-213-1683 / [email protected] in Long Island City seeks enthusiastic, Production sourcing manager VP $200- motivated Sales Exec. with contacts, and 37th St. 25 windows 7000 ft. $16.00 250K. Current exp in sourcing jr. denim Admin Since 1967 amin. of 5 yrs. accessory experience in 5500 ft. Terrace- Views- $20.00 bottoms from China, Far East +WW mass & mid-tier markets. Must be de- Showrooms Bwy & 7th- sublet- move in W-I-N-S-T-O-N DENIM $$$$$ required. LA based. 350 mil vol co. Will tail oriented, possess strong analytical Prime Manhattan Re Jon 212-268-8043 Amazing opportunity with Best major GRAPHIC/CAD ARTIST relo. Negotiation of prices + tech knowl- & communication skills. Travel a must. APPAREL STAFFING denim importer! Seeking expd candidate edge of washes etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. E-mail resume: [email protected] DESIGN * SALES * MERCH w/5yrs & present Q/C, DENIM & mass Trendy Junior Co. seeking a creative ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION mkt knowledge. Top salary BOE. team player proficient in Illustrator, Photoshop and Lectra systems. 825 2nd Avenue -MIDTOWN (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 E-mail: [email protected] Customer Service/ Sales KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Email: [email protected] QUALITY CONTROL 1,250 sf corner retail space/great frontage Growing Contemporary Clothing Mfr. AMAZING FASHION CAREERS seeks motivated, detail oriented, organ- Artists - Designers - Merchandisers - SUPERVISOR Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 Designer $80-100K. Current exp in jun- Logistics Growing New Jersey domestic/import ized individual to handle all phases of www.dumann.com Production - Sales - Technical - Etc. Kearny NJ sportswear mfg seeking customer service. Handle phone calls, Call Barbara Murphy (212) 643-8090 (agcy) ior woven bottoms. Denim, twill, etc. manufacturer seeks individual to develop, Bway @ 40th St. Large Co. Photoshop/ bright individual, min 3 yr exp in implement and maintain systems to en- order processing, reorders, RA’s, etc. Act Illustrator. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy supply chain operations. Must have sure compliance with customer quality as sales liaison with showrooms. Must be For Space in Garment Center Assistant Designers/Sweaters thorough knowledge of major custom- standards & regulations. Will also inter- able to multi task in a fast paced environ- er requirements in packing, shipping face with other departments. Qualified ment. Garment exp. required. Must be Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Jr import/domestic co. seeking highly Designer Assist $40-45K. Min 1-2 yrs &documentation. Must be able to surf PC literate. GREAT OPPORTUNITY! 212-880-0414 creative person w/min 2 yrs. swtr. exp. candidates will be aggressive, have good current exp. in jr sptswr. Proficient in customer websites for continuous communication & computer skills, have Please Fax resume to: 212-840-7818 Duties include: product packs, trim Photoshop/Illustrator. Bway @ 40th updates, communicate via e-mail & sourcing & follow-up w/overseas. at least 2-5 yrs exp. in a manufacturing Street. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy good with Excel. Exc. salary+ benefits. environment. Bilingual Spanish a must. DENIM SALES Search For Space In Garment Center Excel/Mac Proficient. Fax resume to: E-mail resume: [email protected] Donald 212-382-2549 Email resume and salary req’s. to: Established Denim & Sportswear Co. Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee [email protected] seeks a seasoned sales professional to www.midcomre.com DESIGNER ASSISTANT handle dept. store, specialty chain and Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 CAD $55K Queens based manufacturing co seeks Patternmaker/ private label accounts. Excellent oppor- Mens Branded Woven Shirts an Asst Designer. Individual will be tunity for an energetic team player with [email protected] responsible for creating the first Head Patternmaker Retail Analyst/Planner astrong denim background. Salary Showrooms & Lofts pattern from sketches & taking the Growing Contemporary designer seeks Reputable ACCESSORY wholesaler based plus commission commensurate with BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS project from conception to completion. 1st through production patternmaker. in Long Island City seeks Retail Analyst experience. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail CAD Designer-TEXTILE Must be able to cut the samples and Must have extensive knowledge of con- /Planner with min. 5 yrs. experience Please forward resumes to: sew garments for production samples. working in a sku intensive replenish- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Home Textile Firm seeks CAD Designer struction, draping, sewing, and specing. fax: 212-354-4418 Good benefits. Fax resume to: Experience with constructed jackets & ment business with mass/mid-tier re- email: [email protected] w/2 years minimum experience. Position John Kearns (718) 441-1415 tailers. Must be meticulously accurate, requires strong computer skills. Must pants, silk soft dressing, and knits is imperative. Minimum 10 years pattern- detail oriented and possess strong be highly creative, adaptable, and organ- communication skills. Please e-mail East Coast Sales Exec ized. Must also be knowledgeable about Designer Assist to $45K. Min 1-2 yrs making experience req’d. Great opportu- nity! Fax resume to: 212-840-7818 resume to: [email protected] Huit, European leader of hi-end Swim- textile design. Adobe Photoshop and exp in 7-16 girls sptswr. Creating wear & lingerie seeks Sales Rep. Salary Illustrator knowledge req’d. (Pointcarre screenprints, recoloring, nailhead or commission, d.o.e. Fax or E-mail to: & Punto a +). Fax or E-mail Suzanna at: designs. Adobe Illustrator reqr’d. Call PDS PAT MAKER 212-684-7066 / [email protected] 212-213-1683 / [email protected] 973-564-9236 Jaral Fahion Agcy GERBER $70 - $85K SAMPLE MAKER/ [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 PATTERN MAKER: National Sales Director CONTROLLER DESIGNER NJ sample room needs experienced Est’d. European design house expanding Fashion Photography Studio (Milk Associate Designer Personal Assistant Sample and Pattern Makers. across the US seeks candidate with Studio)/Print & Commercial Casting Co. Busy interior design executive seeking Excellent salary and benefits. minimum 10 years exp. in international (House Productions)./Clothing Design Co. BOYS INFANT/TODDLER someone with a great sense of business Call (201) 955-1897 x12. women’s wear fashion to establish, PATTERN/SAMPLES (Raven NY) seeks a Controller. Must Leading Children’s wear manufacturer and highly developed organizational & control, and manage Sales Rep network. have an accounting degree and minimum seeks a creative and talented Associate interpersonal skills. Follow-through is Commission based compensation con- Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Level Designer for department store templated. Please send resume, CV work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 2 years financial/accounting experience. the main job description. Must be flexible Senior Technical Ideal applicant also has experience & licensed product. 3+ yrs. experience &abletomulti-task. This is not a design and requirements under cover letter knowledge of fashion industry. E-mail amust, proficiency in Illustrator and position. Please send cover letter and befor July 25 to Emerson at: production packs req’d. Licensed exp. Designer resumes to: [email protected] resume to: [email protected] Fast growing Missy & Plus importer 11 Mill Ave., Warrensburg, NY 12885 preferred. Fax or Email resumes to: Or E-mail to: [email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, 212-967-8108, Attn: Rachel has immediate opening for Senior [email protected] Technical Designer, for Private Label PRODUCTIONS Controller/Office Mgr. Production Assistant Division of Wovens, Knits & Sweaters. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Successful Manhattan based Children’s Growing San Diego Accessory Co. seeks Minimum 7 to 10 years experience and Call Sherry 212-719-0622. wear company seeking exp’d indiv to Designer proficient with various computer sys- take charge of back office. Responsible enthusiastic person to be involved in all aspects of production including: tems. Experience must include direct SALES EXECUTIVE for Inventory management, shipping HEAD DESIGNER working relationships with Private La- and receiving, A/R dept, EDI, and budgeting, sourcing, ordering, inventory Coolwear seeks an upbeat & motivated Weare seeking a head designer to take management & scheduling. Must have bel customers, Agents and Factories. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, other office managerial issues. Must charge of our bridge women sports- go-getter with proven sales ability, a excellent Excel & communication skills, Fax resume to V.P. Design successful track record and established have good people skills and the ability wear collection. Must have proven 212-221-8326 PRODUCTIONS to lead and manage. E-mail resume to: plus ability to travel abroad. Please relationships at specialty & department skills and track record in designing a Fax resumes to: 760-967-4172 Full servcie shop to the trade. [email protected] successful sportswear collection from stores. Min 5 yrs. experience in junior Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. concept to its completion. Extensive & kids markets. Salary + commission. knowledge in woven and knitted Shipping Manager Email resume: [email protected] CUSTOMER SERVICE garments and fabrics & embroidery Major handbag co. in L.I.C seeks Fast paced importer of textiles and PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD required. Please fax your resume in gifts looking for Shipping Manager. exp’d person to allocate sales orders. confidence to 212-268-3654 or email: SALES PRO WANTED High qlty, reasonable price. Any de Must be familiar with EDI, UPC & QRS. Production Assistant Responsibilities include: analyzing sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 [email protected] Need a change? Multi-million $ L.I. based Excellent benefits & 401K. Leading Childrenswear Importer seeks weekly orders against inventory, daily Promotional Products distributor seeks Please fax resume to: (718) 786-2956 a team player to assist our production communications with warehouse, comply Salespeople. Garment center exp. a pro- Designer - Jewelry team. Candidates must be organized, with customer shipping requirements, ven +. Draw/Commission. Fax/E-mail: detail oriented and able to multi task. reduce costs. Experience with major 631-824-9136 / [email protected] Fashion Jewelry Co. based in Miami, Strong written/verbal skills, proficiency US retailers required. Based in NYC. Florida is seeking a jewelry designer. in Word, Excel & Outlook required. We Email resume to [email protected] Will consider relocation allowance. offer a benefits package and 401k. This Wholesale Fabric Co. Must have prior exp. E-mail resume: is a great oppty to learn production in a Seeking Salesperson w/5+ years exp. & [email protected] dynamic, fast-paced fashion company! existing customers. Opportunity to work Please Fax or Email resumes to: SK-II for commission/salary. Fax work exp. 212 564-5201, Attn: Denise Dimitrova Legendary Japanese Skincare, SK-II is & financial requirements: 212-563-7157 DESIGNERS [email protected] currently accepting resumes for: Growing Children’s Wear Mfr. of "Top- Notch" fashion brands seeks creative, •BUSINESS MGRS: New York area talented, and responsible DESIGNERS •ACCOUNT EXECS : So. Florida Market with a passion for style and a proven Production Coordinator Please E-mail cover letter stating position track record in the industry. Fast paced Childrens/Ladies importer of interest, salary requirements, and •NB 4-6X, 7 Boys’ & Girls’ Wear is seeking an applicant with 5+ years resume to: [email protected] •7-16 Girls’ Wear experience in garment importing from SALES ASSOCIATE F/T •8-20 Boys’ Asia. Must have strong communication Madison Ave. Luxury Fur Boutique •Illustrator/Photoshop skills req’d. skills, be detail oriented & organized. has F/T position for Sales Associate. Duties include: daily order follow up TECHNICAL DESIGNER Minimum 4 yrs. experience. Must with overseas suppliers on all order de- OPENINGS be a go-getter! Customer book a plus. tails. Excellent computer skills a must. Excellent salary + commission Wal-mart experience required. APPAREL STAFFING, LTD Send resumes to: Oldschool Clothing ALAN WOLF and health insurance. Please fax or email resumes to: Please fax resumes to (212) 308-5454 100 W. 33rd St., Ste 945, N.Y., NY 10001 212-658-9149 / [email protected] www.apparelstaffing.com Fax: 212-563-2301 Call (212)302-0216 Fax (212)302-1161 or Email: [email protected] AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPOR

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