B4 FRIDAY, JULY 10, 2020 Motor City Rides Again Th e Rise of Detroit ViTo PALmiSAno TRACY KALER Culture Is Ready and Waiting Like many great cities, all of downtown is hen I told friends and family easily accessible on foot. But the People about my plans to travel to Mover light rail system makes 13 stops on a Detroit, I received a variety loop circling the core, allowing you to hit the of reactions. Probably, the city’s main attractions. Another option is to Wmost common was the question, “Why hop the Q Line and coast to Midtown, due Detroit?” north of Downtown, where trendy shops Once considered the Paris of the Midwest now occupy once-empty storefronts. I rec- due to its architectural prominence in the ommend getting off at the Warren Street early 20th century, the city had a rough stop to spend some time at the Detroit Insti- go of it for many years, so it hasn’t exactly tute of Arts Museum, a stunning depiction topped lists of destinations to visit. of Beaux-Arts architecture and sprawling In truth, I wanted to visit Detroit be- exhibition space of more than 100 galleries cause I was curious. I had heard there and 65,000 works, ranking among the top were great things happening in the city, six collections in the country. and I wanted to see what this Midwestern About a mile from downtown, Eastern metropolis was about. Th at curiosity led Market is both a neighborhood and mar- me to spend the better part of a week wan- ketplace open on Saturdays year-round. It’s dering the city’s regal avenues, meeting where visitors can soak up the essence of and mingling with locals, and indulging Detroit and experience a bit of local color in everything from Coney Island hot dogs in the people, and murals adorning the to fried chicken, fancy cocktails, and lo- 19th-century building façades. Support cally produced wine. local farmers, vendors, and artists while Sure, had I visited the city a decade earlier, listening to live music and feasting on every I would’ve witnessed a diff erent place. But type of cuisine imaginable. I was visiting the Detroit making a come- Northwest of Midtown lies the small but back, a city that had fought long and hard iconic Motown Museum—the former resi- and was fi nally getting its second wind. dence of Motown founder Berry Gordy— often referred to as “Hitsville U.S.A.” Don’t Downtown Revitalization be surprised when you eye a modest build- One Detroiter told me that the downtown ing resembling a house because that’s pre- area had been experiencing an incredible cisely what you’ll fi nd. Unlike many cultur- rebirth in recent years. Wonderfully land- al institutions, there’s no grand entrance scaped outdoor spaces such as Campus to this museum. But there’s music, with Martius Park, Capital Park, and Beacon each tour culminating with a singalong in Park create mini escapes within the heart Studio A, where the popular Motown hits of the city. Restaurants, bars, bakeries, were recorded. and cafes continue to pop up, as locals and transplants eat and sip at the trendi- Th e People and the Promise est spots, spilling onto sidewalks in warm Midwesterners really do radiate a warm weather as gentle breezes drift off the city’s and fuzzy feeling—they’re kind, generous, namesake river. and approachable. It’s no surprise, then, Th at lovely river setting only adds to De- when I say the most memorable aspect of troit’s allure. Its vast waterfront, known my time in Detroit was the people I met. as RiverWalk, is a 3.5-mile revitalized Detroiters are astonishingly friendly and stretch along the city’s edge, and ideal thrilled to open their hearts to strangers. for walking, jogging, biking, or simply Th e pride they feel toward their city is con- recharging. Off ering boat rides, splash  tagious, and their conviction is part of the rides, and a carousel to boot, Detroit Riv- reason why Detroit is rising again. erWalk and its myriad activities appeal to During my trip, I shared several photos folks of all ages. ing itself. 1. The People mover with the Gm renais- on social media, and friends said Detroit One shining example is the reimagined sance Center in the background. was not at all what they had pictured. Tradition and Reinvention Shinola Hotel from the luxury goods retail- Detroit wasn’t at all what I had pictured 2. The Shinola Hotel. Architecturally, the variegated cityscape er by the same name. A bastion on Wood- either. Yes, this city has endured its share resembles that of other urban centers. No ward Avenue, the property stands at the 3. inside the Guardian Building. of heartache, and it is still in transition. It one can ignore the majestic towers and epicenter of the city’s shopping district. may take years to fi ll the vacant lots, and 4. A guest room at the Shinola Hotel. wide-open plazas in this classic American Besides an ideal downtown address in the even longer to remove the stigma that still city. With a backdrop of stately Art Deco former T.B. Rayl & Co. and Singer sewing 5. The Detroit institute of Arts. clings to the town’s name. structures—see the Guardian Building machine stores, the luxe interiors—from But Detroit is also a city with gumption, and the Fisher Building for stunning ex- the fl awlessly crafted millwork in guest soul, and resilience. Th e hometown pride amples—downtown’s elegant silhouette rooms to the eclectically decorated living and good nature of Detroiters are reasons is worthy of oohs and ahs. Detroit’s grand space and lounge adjacent to the recep- enough to visit the city, or at least be curious dames rival other U.S. landmarks such as tion—are a nod to Detroit’s past, present, about it. While the Midwestern hospitality the Board of Trade Building in Chicago and and future. can’t be overlooked, neither can the history, the Empire State and Chrysler buildings Another hotel that’s been repurposed is Once considered the culture, and promise of Detroit’s future. in New York. the extended-stay Element Detroit in the Th e town’s history as an automotive in- 1925 Metropolitan Building. Th e Marriott Paris of the Midwest Th e author was a guest of Visit Detroit. dustry and music capital, giving Detroit property maintains original details in the its nicknames, Motown and Motor City, lobby, exuding an Old World-feel but with due to its architectural Tracy Kaler is a travel writer based in are evident almost everywhere. Cadillac all the modern conveniences any traveler prominence in the New York. She’s written for Th e Telegraph, Square. Th e GM Renaissance Center. Stevie could yearn for. Th e Siren Hotel is set in the Barron’s Penta, amNewYork, and other Wonder Avenue. Temptations Drive. Th e graceful Wurlitzer Building, circa 1926. Th e early 20th century, the publications. When she’s not glued city is a vibrant mix of what’s happened in structure was carefully restored, preserv- city had a rough go of to her laptop, she’s wandering the city the past and what’s to come. ing the building’s character, and is now one she loves or off discovering another part Detroit basks in tradition while reinvent- of Detroit’s hottest additions. it for many years. of the planet.

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