WESTERN 227 Forest National Welkite Menagesha Mt Wenchi © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Metu (an indigenous cereal grain) (an indigenous cereal tef Tepi Gambela

Metu Me- Gambela Gambela ( p229 ) ( p230 ) ( p237 ) and from p237 ( Welkite Mt Wenchi ( p233 ), the birthplace of p233 ( to Tepi nagesha National Forest ( p237 ) exploring the village markets of ing past your window while driving from Jimma Menelik’s bushbuck while meandering on Menelik’s bushbuck while meandering on the slopes of Mt Wuchacha in the for a scenic descent into the lake-filled of crater to

Wipe the sweat from your brow while at the striking steadily scenery mov- Stare Search for birds, colobus monkeys and Wrap your legs around a scrawny horse

„ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

The Anuak, one of several interesting cultures in the Gambela region, believe that to that to believe in the Gambela region, cultures interesting Anuak, one of several The One such history is that of Gambela. Until the tide of time passed it by, Gambela was set One such history is that of Gambela. The western lowlands borrows its climate, geography and much of its culture from neigh- much of its culture geography and its climate, lowlands borrows western The Almost 350km due west of the highland plateau drops dramatically to low- of Addis Ababa the highland plateau Almost 350km due west This region offers an engaging peek into everyday Ethiopian life and is notably the birth- life Ethiopian peek into everyday an engaging offers region This

score. The world doesn’t end in Western Ethiopia; it just feels that way. Ethiopia; it just feels world doesn’t end in Western The score. continue travelling west is to fall off the edge of the world. The Anuak are wrong on this Anuak are world. The west is to fall off the edge of the continue travelling wilds of Gambela National Park. Baro River to Egypt. Today it stands as Ethiopia’s brave farewell to civilisation before the to civilisation before farewell Today it stands as Ethiopia’s brave to Egypt. Baro River to become the linchpin in a grand scheme to establish an inland trading route along the establish an inland trading route to become the linchpin in a grand scheme to again safe to visit this cul-de-sac of forgotten histories. to visit this cul-de-sacagain safe of forgotten bouring . Now that tensions on the Ethiopian side of the border have eased, it is once on the Ethiopian side of the border have bouring Sudan. Now that tensions give way to plantations of verdant banana and mango. to plantations of verdant way give land plains. The remarkable transition sees fields of golden The land plains. of ancient, vine-tangled trees. place of coffee. In the lush western highlands the bean still grows wild beneath a canopy highlands the bean still grows In the lush western place of coffee. most contrasting scenery. themselves explorers, not travellers. Those people are rewarded with some of Ethiopia’s with some of Ethiopia’s rewarded people are Those not travellers. explorers, themselves the south. But for some, therein lies its appeal. The few who do come here can rightly call who do come here few appeal. The lies its therein the south. But for some, It boasts neither the historical must-sees of the north, of seen in must-sees It boasts neither the historical diversity nor the cultural Undisturbed and seldom visited, Western Ethiopia could be left blank on many travel maps. maps. on many travel could be left blank Ethiopia Western and seldom visited, Undisturbed Western Ethiopia Ethiopia Western WESTERN ETHIOPIA December through FebruaryDecember through isvery dry. and October. Unlike the moist highlands, Mayless rain,withmostfallingbetween metal roadofmetal varying quality.Like elsewhere and , after which itcontinuesasa fromAddistoboth Jimma The roadissealed via Jimmaandtothe northwestviaNekemte. Ababa, which provides accesstothesouthwest overland are travelling bybusfromAddis to weekly . Jimmaisalso connectedtimes aweek. twice Addis Ababa withGambela viaJimmafour excess of 40°CinFebruary and March. Temperatures average 27°Cbutcanreach in point. frost 29°C,orreach exceed never The highlands erate precipitation inMarch andOctober. withmod- AprilandSeptember, between 1600mm of annualrainfall.Heavy rainsfall receiveThe western highlands almost 228 Getting There&Around Climate WESTERN ETHIOPIA Akobo The western lowlandsreceive slightly Most peoplewhoenter western Ethiopia H ETR IHAD • AdsAaat mo THE WESTERNHIGHLANDS••AddisAbabatoAmbo S UDAN Jikawo Scenic Routes Ὀ S UDAN ὅὅ ὅὅ ὅὅ ὅὅ National Park Lake Tata

Teylut Gambela Baro

(www.flyethiopian.com) Itang Shebel

River Gog Bambesi Muji Abobo Gambela ὈὈ ὈὈ

Mizan Tefari Baro Gummarro Gecha Bure Coffee Plantation Tepi Mendi connects

Bebeka River Tum Metu Gore Masha Nejo Maji Bechu Wushwush National Ὀ Waterfalls Omo Park Ghimbi Sor River Dimbira Chira Anger Falls

within this area. are inthe process of upgradingmanyroads constructioncrewsin Ethiopia,Chinese-led ibis, endemic blue-wing geese and, occasion- ibis, endemic blue-winggeese Reservoir Gefersa If you’re intobirdwatching, astop atthe ADDIS ABABATO AMBO an Ethiopian Arcadia. likeriver seem valleys,thewestern highlands anddeep cultivation, shadycoffee plantations in lushforests,Carpeted patchworks of dense HIGHLANDS THE WESTERN roads andschedules canrun equally amuck. during the wetseason, However, services. areas, mostareas are covered byregular bus Addis Ababa–Bahir Darroadin the north. in thesouthandtoreach Nekemte fromthe technically possibletoreach JimmafromSodo

Agaro Dide

With theexceptionof remote lowlands If you’re travelling withavehicle it’salso Omo sa

Bedele River River Jimma Nekemte Sanctuary Wildlife Didesa Chomen Lake

Gibe DamIII Gibe (240km);

Gibe DamI Gilgel Gonder (423km) To Bure(80km); Bako River Gilgel maybe warranted. Wattled

Gibe River Guder Falls Senkele Wildlife Mt Wenchi Hosaina 60miles 100km 0 0 Lake Abiata-Shala (3220m) Guder

Sanctuary Weliso River Guder National Park Shone Abaya Welkite Lake Ambo Menagesha Ὀ Ὀ Mt Wuchacha National lonelyplanet.com Forest Dila Menagesha Awasa (3721m) Gurage Lake Butajira Alem Addis

(48km); BahirDar To DebreMarkos (328km); Gonder Awash River Awash Shala Lake Abiata Lake (511km) Ziway Menagesha Shashemene Awasa Mt Reservoir Langano Gefersa Meki ABABA Gena Alem ADDIS Lake Ziway Lake