PEAK AREA NEWSLETTER June 2016 [email protected] Rocking Chair Rob Greenwood We’ve had an odd UK/Sheffield for his lecture at the Abbeydale start to the spring here in the Peak: Picturehouse on 24 May, then the next Peak snow one minute, sun the next, only Area meeting on 8 June (far more important for it to start snowing again! It’s than any international superstar visiting of looking like we’re back on track now course…), and the Outside/BMC Crag and spring has – we hope – finally Clean Up on the 11th, which promises to be sprung: the crags are starting to dry a good, social event – as well as something and things aren’t so wet underfoot if positive for the area. you’re out walking. Hopefully one or more of these will be Aside from getting out there’s a lot of on your radar already, if not then come peripheral activity within the area at the along and get involved! moment, with Alex Honnold visiting the Next meeting: Wednesday 8 June, 8 p.m. The Winking Man, Upper Hulme, ST13 8UH The new Stanage Pole Access: June guide at Stanage. The position is pretty fluid, Henry Folkard particularly at changeover time between first and second broods, so changes are not posted on the BMC RAD. Signs are always At Stanage there taken down as soon as a restriction can be have been problems lifted. with boulderers disturbing ring ouzels Incidentally, at the time of writing there in the Cowper Stone area, causing a is also a restriction at the weaselling area nest to fail within a restricted area. of HiggarTor. Elsewhere, at Burbage, As well as being bad news for the birds Millstone and High Neb end the birds it is potentially bad news for climbers are doing OK at the moment. and boulderers too. On a much brighter note, the ceremony Restrictions are only put in place where to erect the new Stanage Pole went really it is deemed necessary, and are always well – some of the Stanage sticker 'Ours to agreed by Adam Long or, if he is away, by me. Care For' money helped to finance it. For the majority of nests restrictions are not Thanks to those volunteers who helped, necessary, and none are applied. The system and to Adam who masterminded the of voluntary restraint has worked well for rope-work for the lift. some years now, and is a really good deal for The 2016/17 work plan for Stanage climbers because it has resulted in much less is being worked up at the moment, so if restriction (which could be legally enforced) there are any things you would particularly than would be the case in its absence. like to see done, do let me or Adam know. There is a huge amount to lose, so Other climbing sites on the gritstone where an area is restricted please stay where we are trying to sort some better away for the couple of weeks it will access agreements include EagleTor and apply. On-site signage is the best, and only, Grinah Stones – ask at the meeting if 2 Peak Area Newsletter June 2016 you want to know more. Scheme – with help from head office and The Spirit of Kinder day at the end access reps in the Lakes.These have gone to of April, held this year in Hayfield in the head of the National Trust in the Peak as conjunction with the local community, and a position paper, and as a basis for further hosted by the excellent Royal Hotel, was a discussion.At the time of writing we are well-attended event. Star turns were a awaiting a response, largely because the keynote speech from Carey Davies and chap in question is away on leave just now. contributions from local primary school If you want to know the detail do ask at the kids who had been learning about their meeting, when some update should be heritage, and saying, very much in their own possible. words, why they wanted to protect it. 455 We still await the inspector’s formal tonnes of slabs have been lifted on to the decision on the Longstone Edge East Brown Knoll path, and 1.5km already laid. public inquiry, which is taking much longer The BMC has objected to a planning than anticipated to emerge.We think this is application regarding a new track that has because there are now only two staff left in already been laid right across Midhope the Department for Communities and Local Moor, crossing it at about the point where Government with the job of scrutinising Mickleden Edge becomes Cut Gate. We are such things before they see light of day, not the only ones to have objected to this rather than anything more sinister. unwarranted intrusion on the landscape of On Longstone Edge West we are the open moor. about to comment on a new planning There was a disastrous fire on Oaken application seeking to vary current agreed Bank in the Upper Derwent earlier in conditions for restoration of the site, the month (when it was not raining), which essentially by postponing such restoration destroyed 25 hectares of moorland and for 20 years. On the face of it any such 30 years of woodland regeneration, and all proposal is completely unacceptable, but because of someone’s barbecue. If you are there are some technical reasons, concerned out and about, your eyes and alertness with treatment of the tailings which are used could save another such disaster. for the infill which may make this a practical The BMC was represented on a necessity. Come the meeting we should DofE Diamond Challenge event early know what line we have taken, but it is not in May which involved a heck of a lot of at all straightforward – and there is a whole organisation for someone, but for raft of associated other issues too. participants nothing more exacting than Finally, something on which everyone a walk across Kinder in the company of can, and I hope will, comment, because HRH the Earl of Wessex. your views will have impact – the ROWIP. On the limestone the current access So what is a ROWIP? Perhaps it’s a bit of issues feature Blackwell Halt, ShiningTor an arid subject but it is the Rights of Way and Staden. Jon Fullwood, and Rob Dyer in Improvement Plan. Resources to head office, are between them trying to get maintain, let alone improve, the network these resolved. in Derbyshire, and in the other Highway On more general topics, access and Authority areas impinging on the Peak, walking reps have spent a lot of time putting are sorely stretched. As indeed are the some alternative proposals together for the staff in post to do anything with what proposed NationalTrust Licensing there is to spend. http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 3 What the ROWIP does is determine Climbing News & Gossip priorities for expenditure. If you have views Simon Lee on what those priorities should be, then please let me know.There will be some Spring has sprung, the grass has riz, public consultation in due course – at the I wonder where the Southern Lime moment it has just begun with both the guide is? Wonder we may – some of Peak and Derby and Derbyshire Local those scripts were written 15 years Access Forums.Three of the suggestions ago! No doubt there is a more for this ten-year review of the existing pressing need for a further update to document are: greater emphasis on upland the Lancashire guide. Is the guidebook rights of way (with sensitivity regarding any committee perhaps made up of work to the general character of the way); members whose affiliations lie possible review of the status of some elsewhere? See the darker reaches footpaths to accord higher rights on them of the BMC website for details. for cyclists and horse riders (if you have Brexit is dominating the news and at any rights of way in Derbyshire in mind this time of National Crisis we look to where you think this might be desirable our leaders for inspiration and direction. now is your chance); and consideration Disappointingly Dave “I’m just a humble of better provision for users of motor- bureaucrat” Turnbull, our chief executive, is propelled vehicles.This last item is, of offering no guidance to BMC members. course, contentious. Britain never signed up to Euro climbing but That’s enough for now. over the last 30 years our crags have been overrun with bolts. These “sports” routes, Stop Press: A pretty major piece of news: as BMC president Rehan Siddiqui calls them, Moscar Estate (which includes Long compete for our limited rock resources and Causeway to the A57 at Stanage, Bamford in extreme cases they take over native trad Edge, Upper Derwent and quite a lot more) routes.As far as I can see, a ‘yes’ vote will has been sold by Jeremy Archdale to the give Italian-based IFSC the mandate to force Duke of Rutland/Haddon Estates.This is the BMC to become a governing body in now officially confirmed. order that Shauna can win the Olympics. This is the Thin End of the Wedge™. After that everyone will have to fill in a risk assessment and sign a disclaimer to climb at Stanage. Despite the threat to the freedom of our cherished sport, the BMC council is said to be split on the subject and in any case are still locked in the debate on the question of how many angels can dance on an RP0.