Legend has it that rava idli (steamed semolina cake), one of Mavalli Tiffin Rooms’s bestselling dishes, was created in the restaurant’s kitchens during the Second Abu Dhabi is getting a McGettigan’s – Dubai’s popular Irish pub – courtesy of Al Raha Beach food World War when was in short supply Hotel. McGettigan’s AUH is due to open in the hotel at the end of April Idli, dosa, A taste of Tehran Cafe Nadery, inspired by the legendary Tehran salon of the same name, opened in New York last year with the intention to provide rice and all a space for Iranians and non-Iranians to socialise and share ideas and art. Jessica Holland reports that things nice the food is fab, too On a recent Sunday afternoon in Cafe Nadery, the Iranian cafe and social space that opened last summer in New York’s Greenwich Village, young Iranian-Americans white cheddar and tamarind date Jewel rice is and catch the Asghar Farhadi film were perched at the bar, thumb- chutney is popular, as is saffron flavoured with A Separation, which was shown on ing through their phones, read- ice cream and ash-e reshteh: a orange zest, two screens with English subtitles. ing, Skyping on iPads and drink- gumbo-style stew, fragrant with dried fruit and “The restaurants that do exist are ing glasses of Persian tea (refills mint, fried onions, turmeric cardamom. kind of formal.” Courtesy Shohreh are just a dollar; Dh3.7). A table of and the tangy, -like product Dorudi Her companion, Nima Deaivari, middle-aged patrons laugh rau- kashk. A weekend brunch menu is a lawyer who has his parents’ For an authentic taste of food from the South cously; elsewhere a young family includes mimosas and medjool- names tattooed in Farsi on his and a couple play backgammon. date omelettes, while hand-blend- inner wrists. “This place looked Indian state of Karnataka, visit Mavalli Tiffin Conversation can be heard in at ed tea comes in varieties that really cool,” he says. “It has a nice, Rooms, the 1924 establishment that opened a least three languages. contain rose petals, cardamom, neighbourhoody feel to it, and Nadery isn’t the first place to lavender and violets. the food’s been really great. We’re spot in Bur Dubai last week, says Priti Salian serve New Yorkers Persian food, “Los Angeles has a lot of really coming back on Saturday, with but it’s the first to do so while good Persian food but New York re- another Persian friend.” prioritising a lively, intellectual ally doesn’t,” says Robin Foroutan, The head chef Shohreh Dorudi “Thick, crusty dosas, tangy bisi- atmosphere over financial profit. a nutritionist who came to Nadery is the only member of the cafe’s bele bhaat and freshly ground A question of quality Taking inspiration from its Teh- on a week night to eat at the bar 21 investors to have experience ‘filter’ coffee are nearly impossi- Set up for the first time in the Lal- ran namesake, an icon of Iranian in the food industry. The rest ble to find at one place in the city,” bagh area of Bangalore, the capital coffee-house culture where phi- are professionals, business- says the 39-year-old Vikram Maiya, of Karnataka, in 1924, MTR is now losophy and art would be chewed people and academics. What who craved authentic Karnataka an integral part of the city’s heritage. over by literary luminaries in the unites them, Nikki says, is that cuisine whenever he visited Dubai. Step into any of the seven branches 1940s and 1950s, the cafe hosts  recipe they are all Iranian-American, Maiya is the managing partner there any day of the week and you’ll events almost every night. These and they all believe in cultivating of Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR), find them doing brisk business. range from oud and kamancheh a community. a popular Bangalore-based chain In fact, the Dubai outlet will repli- recitals to poetry nights, art exhi- Jewel rice By the chef Shohreh Dorudi “When we come together at the of restaurants with a branch in cate the same model, and a band of bitions, football matches, discus- cafe, we will do whatever is nec- Singapore. veteran cooks has even been flown sions in Farsi and even the Super Ingredients orange zest to the pot. essary,” she says. “We will wash Call it craving or conceit, but his in to set up the kitchen here. Bowl. 1 cup dried orange zest or Repeat 3 times to take the dishes, or clean, or be hosts, desire to find bona fide Kannada “Urad dal [black gram], a key “We are not looking to get people 2 cups fresh orange zest away any bitter flavour. because we are doing this out of food in the UAE has resulted in the ingredient in idli, dosas and vada inside and then get them out so 4 cups matchstick carrots Then drain and set aside. love.” expansion of MTR to Bur Dubai, [crêpes and deep-fried doughnuts the next person can come in,” says 1/2 cup unsalted slivered 2 Place orange zest, sugar Whichever measure of success where a new branch opened on made with fermented rice and Nahzi Nikki, one of the 21-strong almonds and rose water, plus 1 cup is used, Cafe Nadery seems to be Friday. lentil batter] will be sourced from collective of shareholders who 1/2 cup slivered of regular water in a pot. thriving. It was given the seal of Bangalore, along with the special own the cafe. “Our philosophy is pistachios Cover the pot and cook approval by the New Yorker maga- masalas and coffee beans, which Mavalli Tiffin with puri (deep-fried dough discs) quite the opposite: to have a gath- 3/4 cup sugar over medium-low heat for zine recently, and celebrities have are all essential to good taste,” Rooms, which and several kinds of rice including ering place. That is why it will not 1 teaspoon ground saffron about 30 minutes, until even been spotted at its tables. Maiya says. serves authentic pongal, bisibele bhaat, vangi bhaat  five things to try at MTR necessarily be a huge business 1 cup zereshk (barberries) the juice becomes A few months ago, a diner Try the lunch thali And perhaps the best thing is Kannada and rice, in succession. success, because that was never 1/2 teaspoon rosewater, a thick syrup. Then add snapped a photo of the actress that MTR focuses only on Karna- cuisine, has Three sumptuous desserts are our aim. We are hoping to be a optional 1/2 teaspoon ground saf- Susan Sarandon eating at Nad- branches in consisting of 16 Chandrahara taka cuisine, without the popular India, Singapore also served; two with the main • huge cultural success.” 2 teaspoons powdered fron, stirring occasionally ery, and posted it to the cafe’s items and unlimited Indian favourites such as and now in course and one at the end. Circles of sweet dough flavoured with saffron, In addition to the events, this cardamom for 2 minutes. Facebook page. On seeing it, servings, all for chicken or lamb biryani. Dubai. folded over into triangles and deep-fried; Dh10 means providing books, newspa- (The dried orange zest, 3 Remove from the heat, Nikki recalls with a cackle: Satish Kumar / • Mavalli Tiffin Rooms opened • Rava idli pers and magazines; having fast rose water and zereshk add cardamom, almonds “A chef asked the manager, ‘How Dh25 The lunch special The National at Al Tawhidi Building, opposite Steamed semolina cakes; Dh11.5 Wi-Fi connectivity, plenty of pow- can be found in Persian pistachios, zereshk, come you didn’t tell me she was Try the lunch thali (platter), con- Apsara Super Market, Bank Street, • Filter coffee er outlets for laptops, and an on- grocery stores) carrots and mix well. here? I would have made sure that sisting of 16 items and unlimited Bur Dubai, on Friday. Open on Southern Indian-style brewed coffee; Dh6 line subscription to The New York 4 To serve, place a layer everything was perfect.’ And the servings, all for Dh25. all days except Mondays, from • Badam halwa Times; and making sure everyone Method of rice on a serving dish, manager replied: ‘I didn’t know A freshly prepared fruit juice is 7.30am to 10pm. Call 04 327 5909 -based almond pudding; Dh8 feels welcome to linger. 1 Place the dried orange then a layer of orange you would be interested. If you’re served before the meal and paan or 056 206 7321 (prices are • Masala dosa ≥ The food is a sophisticated mix zest in a small pot, pour zest mixture. Combine interested, Michael Douglas was (betel leaf) to end it. In between, subject to change) Potato-stuffed rice crêpe; Dh15 of Persian and American fare, over 2 1/2 cups water and well and serve with here the week before.’” there are curries, salad, veggies, with several wholesome vegetar- boil. Drain and return chicken. sambar, rasam and served ĝĝ[email protected] ian options. A beet burger with ĝĝ[email protected]

08 Tuesday, April 8, 2014 www.thenational.ae The National arts&life The National arts&life Tuesday, April 8, 2014 www.thenational.ae 09