BRAD ART NO.5 SCHOOL ’S NEW MARY-KATE OLSEN AND OLIVIER FRAGRANCE SARKOZY WERE AMONG THE CAMPAIGN WITH REVELERS AT AGNES GUND’S BRAD PITT. PAGE 7 ARTS CHARITY EVENT. PAGE 9

DIMINISHING CROWD Sept. Comps Mixed As Relevance Wanes

By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

ARE COMPS KAPUT? Coming off blazing August comparable-store sales results, 20 retailers on Thursday reported a slate of tepid September numbers. But the sluggish results FRIDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2012 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY were overshadowed by news that Target Corp. is pull- ing out of the monthly reporting regimen starting next WWD month. The retail giant’s departure has essentially plucked $70 billion in annual sales out of the comp- store base — and now leaves only 19 retailers report- ing comps, down from 32 just two years ago and 50 fi ve years ago. The decline has made it increasingly diffi cult to get a read on the health of the industry from monthly updates. A Fine Target’s move isn’t a complete surprise. Wal-Mart Stores Inc. stopped reporting three years ago, fol- lowed by a slew of teen retailers and, most recently, a handful of department stores, including Saks Inc., Romance Neiman Marcus Inc. and J.C. Penney Co. Inc. At a luncheon at the New York Hilton on Tuesday, Penney’s chief executive offi cer Ron Johnson ac- Riccardo Tisci’s priestess of high knowledged that the road to reinvention of his com- style walked the runways for pany has been rocky, but he noted that looking at monthly comps is “irrelevant if you’re looking for- Givenchy in a softer take on Sixties ward” instead of back. couture. Looking to the house Then there is the specialty apparel market, archives, the designer offered a new where only 10 companies tracked by WWD still re- port comps, and half of them are owned by either take on sculptural ruffl es for his Gap Inc. or Limited Brands Inc. Specialty retail- lineup of modern glamour. For more, ers such as Abercrombie & Fitch Co., J. Crew Group see pages 4 and 5. Inc., Aéropostale Inc., American Eagle Outfitters Inc., Urban Outfi tters Inc., Ann Inc., The Talbots Inc. Chico’s FAS Inc. and Pacifi c Sunwear of California Inc. are all out of the game. When asked about the health of the specialty chan- nel based on the monthly results, Michael Brown, a partner in the retail practice at A .T. Kearney, didn’t even feign an opinion. “I think if you look at the companies reporting, it’s hard to get a handle of what’s going on,” he admitted. SEE PAGE 8 PPR’s Developing Future

By MILES SOCHA and JOELLE DIDERICH

PARIS — For the past 50 years, the fashion business directed most of its efforts towards some 800 million consumers in the wealthiest regions of the world: the U.S., Western Europe and Japan. Training its sights on the next half a century, PPR spies a broader world as demographics and economic development promise to deliver some 3 billion young and affl uent consumers from such emerging nations as China, Indonesia, Mexico, Brazil and Russia. SPRING 2013 So says PPR chairman and chief executive offi - COLLECTIONS cer François-Henri Pinault, who hosted a press day on Thursday with his top managers to elaborate on the French group’s transformation from a retail-to- TRENDS luxury conglomerate to an integrated fi rm focused on apparel and accessories in the luxury and sport-and- lifestyle segments. “What is at stake in the longer-term, that is to say over the next 50 years or so, is absolutely huge and without precedent in human history,” Pinault said. This means that PPR has plenty of potential to grow sales, even without acquisitions. In 2011 as a whole, PPR recorded sales of 12.23 billion euros, or $17.03 billion, up 11.1 percent on the previous year. Pinault hopes to triple the size of its core luxury and sport & lifestyle divisions by 2020 and increase revenues to 24 billion euros, or $31.1 billion at current exchange. He reiterated that the group would look to buy mainly small and medium-sized fi rms with strong growth potential, saying that one of the areas it was interested in expanding was the outdoor segment. PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD FRIDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2012 WWD.COM Li & Fung Said Buying N.Y. Sourcing Firm THE BRIEFING BOX beyond China as labor costs rise concentrated in Pakistan, India IN TODAY’S WWD By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN in the country and manufactur- and Bangladesh, and this week ers there look to produce more for the company opened an office NEW YORK — Li & Fung Ltd. is domestic consumption. “Li & Fung in Sri Lanka. Synergies manag- said to be finalizing a deal to pur- is looking at more low-cost, Asia- es $300 million in international chase Synergies Worldwide, a New specific sourcing.” trade for about 75 clients around York-based sourcing firm that spe- It was unclear what role the world. cializes in South Asia. Synergies founder and presi- Li & Fung has a global net- It is that expertise that is said dent Munir Mashooqullah would work covering more than 40 to have attracted the Hong Kong- have once the deal in completed. economies in the Americas, based sourcing giant, which has Mashooqullah, who was unavail- Europe, Africa and Asia, with its manufacturing base in China, able for comment on Thursday, more than 300 offices and distri- to Synergies, according to a started Synergies in 1987 and bution centers. Li & Fung’s sales source with knowledge of the has focused his company’s ef- for the first half ended June 30 transaction. forts on providing fast fashion grew 3.7 percent to $9.13 billion, “It’s likely Li & Fung’s response and discount apparel, accesso- as net profits increased 32.6 per- Mayor Michael to developing a China Plus One ries, footwear and home textiles cent to $312.3 million. The com- Bloomberg, strategy,” said the source, refer- to companies in the U.S. and pany did not respond to a request Barbara Walters ring to companies diversifying Europe. Synergies’ sourcing is for comment on the acquisition. and Barry Diller at the Breguet event STEVE EICHNER at Carnegie Hall. PHOTO BY Christopher Colfer Analysts pondered the importance of comp sales reports with Target Corp. set to drop the monthly routine. PAGE 1

Exits Post at Dunhill PPR spies a broader world as demographics and economic development promise to deliver some 3 billion young and By SAMANTHA CONTI affluent consumers from emerging nations. PAGE 1

LONDON — Christopher Colfer has stepped down as Christopher Colfer has stepped down as chief executive officer of Alfred Dunhill to take up a group role at chief executive officer of Alfred Dunhill to take up a PAGE 2 group role at Compagnie Financière Richemont. Compagnie Financière Richemont. Colfer served as Dunhill’s ceo for seven years, and Evelyn Lauder’s legacy lives on as her Breast Cancer the company said he was responsible for the brand’s PAGE 6 “exponential growth” and commercial development. Awareness campaign marks its 20th anniversary. Richemont said it would name his successor in the coming weeks. Armed with a new ad campaign featuring brand spokesperson and a new look, Rogaine is hoping In the 2011-12 fiscal year, Dunhill was one of the top PAGE 6 performers in Richemont’s growing fashion and acces- to grow more than just hair. sories division. Overall sales in fashion and accessories grew 18 percent in the year ended March 31. Chanel later this month will do a global unveiling of its first Colfer succeeded Simon Critchell in 2005, taking project with Brad Pitt, whom it signed in May: a commercial and print ad for the iconic Chanel No.5. PAGE 7 over at a time when Dunhill, one of the group’s largest brands, was struggling to carve out a stronger design image in men’s wear and accessories. Ulta Beauty will provide the grand prize on the reality TV Colfer was formerly a marketing executive at the show “The Face,” where models will compete to be the face of its fall and holiday 2013 national ad campaigns. PAGE 7 Looks from Alfred Dunhill. group who had also been overseeing Richemont’s ven- ture capital and development investments. The 35th anniversary gala for Studio in a School on Tuesday evening in New York brought out a mix of bold- faced arts patrons. PAGE 9

Refinery29 Teams With DKNY for Line W magazine publisher Nina Lawrence said she would be departing to become ’s new vice and . Each of the bags, which retail from PAGE 9 By RACHEL STRUGATZ $195 to $395, keeps the local demographic in mind. president of global marketing, advertising sales. The is a $395 streamlined nude A.P.C.’s 25th birthday party Wednesday night, at the end of NEW YORK — Beyond Refinery29’s expansions leather backpack with black bordering, and the PAGE 10 on the editorial front — its first international San Francisco, also $395, is a Fashion Week, drew an eclectic, cool crowd. edition in London is slated for launch in early Refinery29 + DKNY’s raffia satchel with coral ac- December — the digital fashion destination box clutch. cents and black leather Fendi’s celebration of the Baguette’s 15th birthday is reaching its zenith in the online world. PAGE 11 will unveil its first collection of accessories, top handles. Then there’s created in partnership with DKNY. the $245 Miami, a petite Refinery29 editor in chief Christene coral and nude crossbody Elizabeth S. Marcuse, the 49-year-old president of LIM College, has found herself at home in the world of Barberich called the seven-piece handbag and the $305 Washington, PAGE 12 line, Refinery29 + DKNY, a tangible ex- D.C., a larger version academia. ample of what the site does on a daily basis. of the same silhouette This is DKNY’s second collaboration with a with chain straps. The ON WWD.COM digital lean — the first was with blogger the London is an ode to Bag Snob last year. Vivienne Westwood- Breguet Clock Unveiled at Carnegie Hall: Breguet feted “Because personal style can be in- esque punk with a its partnership with the concert hall Wednesday night with timidating for a lot of women, we coral and black lace the unveiling of its limited-edition clock. For more images, like to think of ourselves as the envelope clutch and re- see WWD.com/accessories-news. feel-good fashion site, never tails for $265. alienating anyone, but still “We are a digital style delivering smart and original site, so we wanted that vibe TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. ideas they can apply to their and DNA to resonate, but re- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. everyday lives,” Barberich ally nicely merged with the signature COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. said, revealing that the sev- DKNY sensibility,” Barberich said of VOLUME 204, NO. 72. FRIDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, en-year-old site averages the Los Angeles and , a $195 March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine seven million monthly visi- canvas box clutch and $305 tote, re- Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, tors, maintains a database of spectively, emblazoned with pixelat- Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, 1.2 million e-mail subscrib- ed, geometric prints created by an and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver ers and projects one billion in-house graphic designer to give the Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North page views for 2013. bags a “digital feeling.” Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. “We thought about each Beginning in March, the bags will Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or market and how we see it be sold at DKNY stores, dkny.com and inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine responding. We are a trend refinery29.com. is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. destination, but the bags Barberich said Refinery29 saw You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt aren’t overly trendy. They are 100 percent year-over-year growth of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request still classic,” Refinery29 cre- from 2011 to 2012. Going forward, for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at ative director Piera Gelardi the site will focus its energies on www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Refinery29 + DKNY’s Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that added, seated alongside New York City backpack. commerce and video, including a we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at Barberich at DKNY’s show- new holiday concept “Live From P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED room in Midtown here. 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VIPER esteelauder.com 4 WWD FRIDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2012

Gucci Chloé

SPRING 2013 COLLECTIONS TRENDS

For the Frill of It All Ruffles took a modern turn on the runways, leaving behind the romantic frou and adding a dramatic flair for day and night. GIANNONI AND GIOVANNI PIERO CRISTALDI PHOTOS BY WWD FRIDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2012 5 WWD.COM

J.W. Anderson 6 WWD FRIDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2012

BCA products. A $2.4 Million Dream beauty THE FINAL $32,000 raised during last week’s Dream Ball provided perhaps the most poi- gnant moment in an evening full of emotion. The event, held Sept. 27 at Cipriani 42nd Street in Manhattan, raised more than $2.4 million to benefit the Look Good Feel Better program of the BCA’s Busy Month Ahead Personal Care Products Council Foundation and the American Cancer Society. That was the highest “The BCA campaign is one of the fund-raising total since the formerly flush days of By JULIE NAUGHTON most important things we do as a 2006, when $2.5 million was raised. and PETE BORN company that is not related to sell- years through the sale of these prod- The honorees were Carol Hamilton, presi- ing and marketing our product,” said ucts, which has been donated directly dent of the Luxe Division of L’Oréal USA, and NEARLY A YEAR after its founder, William Lauder, executive chairman to the BCRF. The BCRF has raised Michael Clinton, president and marketing and Evelyn H. Lauder, passed away, the of the Estée Lauder Cos., who is car- more than $380 million for research publishing director of Hearst Magazines, and Breast Cancer Research Foundation rying on his mother’s role of traveling since its inception in 1993. both of them proved they are no slouches when is taking steps to continue her legacy to global cities with program ambassa- “We felt both inspired and emotional it comes to making a dramatic gesture. — including partnering with the Estée dor Elizabeth Hurley. “It has so many about the fact that this is both the 20th an- Clinton talked about how he learned to appre- Lauder Cos. Inc. to mark the corpo- different touch points, both within our niversary of the campaign — which really ciate cosmetics and fragrance from the example ration’s 20th annual Breast Cancer company and outside our company. It is shows an enduring commitment — and, of his beloved grandmother, who Awareness campaign. one of the most important philanthrop- of course, our first year of carrying on was “the family beauty queen” The BCA campaign, which kicks off ic causes that we do. It crosses multiple without Mrs. Lauder, so it is very person- and, unfortunately, a breast this week, has several new elements this brands and creates a level of engage- ally important to all of us,” said Marisa cancer victim. He then year, including an interactive Thalberg, vice president of corporate dig- described how struck “Milestones of Courage” timeline, which ital marketing for the Estée Lauder Cos. he was by the heroism also curates content marked #BCA20 The Facebook application and pluck of the can- from Instagram, , Viddy and will live on the BCA’s global cer patients he met Tumblr; an interactive mobile exhibi- Facebook page and can be con- while visiting a Look tion, and a new brand visual put to- tributed to globally, including Good Feel Better gether by Jim Nevins, senior vice the 36 countries that partici- workshop, so much president and global creative pate in the BCA campaign. so that he invited director for Clinique, with In China, where Facebook them to the dinner as an image by Patrick Shaw. is not permitted, the com- his guests, and two of There is also a public-ser- pany will use Sina Weibo, them came. Clinton vice ad running on Taxi T V. the Chinese equivalent of began reminiscing In 2010, the BCRF set Facebook, and Tuding, an about the legendary a Guinness World Record Instagram-type channel, to career of his late col- for most monuments lit for get a similar message out. league, Cosmopolitan a cause in a 24-hour peri- Items from the BCA campaign. “We will also pepper in editor in chief Helen od, with 38 on the docket. research milestones and Gurley Brown, and then Monuments to be lit this year include ment.” Lauder noted that many advanc- other accomplishments from the last 20 declared that he was do- the Empire State Building, Paris’ es in breast-cancer research over the years,” said Thalberg of the timeline. nating $1,000 for each Opera House and the Los Angeles past 20 years have been funded by the To further drive consumers to year of Brown’s tenure Carol Hamilton; Milla International Airport. BCRF and the BCA campaign. use the application, the BCA cam- — $32,000 for 32 years. Jovovich, who presented Lauder appears in a milestone This year, he added, 15 of the corpo- paign will donate $1 to the BCRF for Hamilton made her Hamilton’s award, and video, which will be used around the ration’s brands are participating with a every global milestone posted to its own statement: L’Oréal Michael Clinton. world at press events, social- and dig- variety of merchandise, including a $75 Facebook in October, up to $25,000. will expand the skin- ital-media outlets and selected retail- Estée Lauder enameled compact with The U.S. and several global markets care dimension of the LGFB workshops in 2013, ers. Speaking on why she founded the a blush shade dubbed Evelyn’s Dream; will offer an interactive mobile exhibi- not only by donating treatment products, but by BCRF and then the BCA campaign, she a $27.50 Origins Make a Difference skin tion outfitted in a trailer. At the touch of providing the advice of experts like dermatologists. said, “[About] 44,000 women were dying rejuvenating treatment; a $19 bright a screen, visitors will be able to access JOHN AQUINO “We as an industry should celebrate tonight our from breast cancer every year, and no pink Smashbox Be Legendary lipstick in the monument illuminations for the last combined efforts to blast cancer — as I call it ‘the one was talking about it. Once you know Inspiration; a $16 Clinique Pink With a 20 years; all of Evelyn Lauder’s public- Big C’ — out of this universe for once and for all.” something has to be done, you have to Purpose Chubby Stick Moisturizing lip service announcements on breast can- Later, during an auction in which the crowd do it. If you don’t do it, it’s a sin.” color, and a $45 Bobbi Brown Pink Peony cer, and meetings with former first lady pledged various amounts for different colored She added, “It’s one thing to be able Set, with a Pink Peony Illuminating and current Secretary of State Hillary balloons, Hamilton first bought a $10,000 balloon, to sell fragrances and perfumes and Bronzer and Mini Blender Brush. Rodham Clinton, among other high then asked the 10 cancer survivors in the audi- creams to all our customers. It’s another The BCA campaign has generated points. About 40 people can be in the ence from L’Oréal to stand up so she could pur-

thing to help them live their lives longer.” $35 million in North America over the unit at any given time. BCA AND DREAM BALL PHOTOS BY chase each of them a $1,000 balloon. — P.B.

tion, written two books: “You’re Rogaine Updates Packaging and Ad Campaign Hired: How to Succeed in Business and Life” and “Beyond a new generation of men. “We’ve the Lemonade Stand,” and has By BELISA SILVA been steadily working to mod- coauthored one with Giuliana ernize the brand,” said Dineen. called “I Do…Now What?” ARMED WITH a new ad cam- “We [also] wanted to make the When it comes to paign featuring brand spokes- can more visually appealing so working so closely person Bill Rancic and a new that guys would feel comfortable on a professional look, Rogaine is hoping to grow keeping it out on their vanity or level with his wife, more than just hair. in their grooming kit.” Rancic said, “I al-

“Our vision when designing While speaking about his OF PETER YANGPHOTO COURTESY ways try to take the new look was to create some- new ad campaign, rolling out in the emotion out of thing that would contemporize October and November consumer the decision mak- the brand,” said Hugh Dineen, magazines, Rancic recalled using ing with my dif- vice president of marketing for the product just after his days as ferent business Johnson & Johnson Consumer an undergrad at Loyola University entities, which can Products Co. “With Bill, we’re at- Chicago. He said it was about four be tough, because taching a celebrity face to hered- years ago that he began taking it’s personal.” He itary hair loss, which removes Rogaine more seriously, applying added, “We are some of the stigma.” it two times a day, every day. Behind the scenes at Rancic’s shoot; the revamped packaging. trying to use our As part of the Rogaine re- “Giuliana [Rancic’s wife, show for good and launch, which includes more television personality Giuliana love and business, yet he’s still For one, Rancic’s daily news not evil.” streamlined packaging for its Rancic] and I were looking at someone that men can relate to,” magazine television show, Balancing all of this with Rogaine Foam for men, to be un- old pictures from before I really said Dineen. The appointment “America Now,” which he hosts parenthood seems a welcome veiled later this year, Rancic will started using it,” said Rancic, is just one of Rancic’s many gigs with Leeza Gibbons, just started change for Rancic. be sharing his personal story of who added that his hair while on — which include motivational its new season, and Rancic and “Little man will definitely slow hair loss and offering guy-friendly “The Apprentice” was noticeably speaker, real-estate developer, his wife’s dating and match- the train down,” he said. “We’ve “beauty” tips across all of his so- thinner than it is today. “The be- restaurant owner and author. making show, “Ready for Love,” been planning for this for a while.” cial-media touch points. “I want to fore and after was remarkable. Also new dad to Edward Duke, produced by Eva Longoria, will For Rancic, keeping it all to- help educate people and let them I couldn’t believe it. Giuliana born five weeks ago. Rancic said launch on NBC later this win- gether comes down to a few life les- know hair loss isn’t something would kill me if I stopped.” that he truly believes Rogaine ter. In addition, the sixth season sons he’s picked up along the way. you have to live with,” he said. Dineen said the Rogaine can change people’s lives. of “Giuliana and Bill” has just “Donald Trump taught me “Rogaine changed my life.” team opted to tap Rancic, the When it comes to his per- kicked off on the Style Network. to never give up,” he said. “So For Rogaine, which origi- first winner of “The Apprentice,” sonal and professional lives, The two are also co-owners of many give up too early. They nally launched in 1988 as a because of his authentic connec- Rancic certainly has a lot going RPM Italian, a restaurant in reach a roadblock and just give prescription-only product, the tion to the brand and role as a on, both on camera and off, but Chicago, with plans to expand up. [Trump] instilled in me that restaging is designed to make multifaceted, modern man. is surprisingly low-key about his the brand with more doors in the fight, and that’s something I live the brand more approachable to “He’s found success in life, jam-packed schedule. near future. Rancic has, in addi- off as well.” WWD.COM

5,000+ Brad CEW MEMBERS GET Steps Up Brad Pitt on set with Joe Wright. PHOTO BY SAM TAYLOR-WOOD FOR CHANEL SAM TAYLOR-WOOD PHOTO BY CAN A MAN EFFECTIVELY SELL a women’s noted that the commercial, shot by Joe Wright, fragrance? Chanel is using Brad Pitt to find out. features Pitt speaking in a way that the viewer as- In mid-October, the brand will do a global un- sumes he’s speaking to a woman — and then it’s veiling of its first project with Pitt (whom it signed revealed that the addressee is actually the scent. INSIDER in May): a commercial and print ad for the iconic Wright has worked with Chanel since 2006, and Chanel No.5. directed several Coco Mademoiselle commercials “To keep a legend fresh, you always have to with Keira Knightley, whom he is also directing in change its point of view,” said Andrea d’Avack, the upcoming “Anna Karenina.” INFORMATION president, Chanel Fragrance & Beauty. “It is the The Pitt commercial is planned for an Oct. 15 first time we’ve had a man speaking about a wom- global launch, while the print ad is expected to en’s fragrance. We think very much that the per- begin appearing in November fashion, beauty fume is a seduction between a man, a woman and and lifestyle magazines. D’Avack added that the EVERY DAY the perfume. No.5 is our leading fragrance, and campaign will also include extensive social-me- we are willing to make the investment to keep it dia outreach. “We are reaching the ecosystem of on that level.” communications vehicles,” he said. “We believe D’Avack emphasized that the brand plans to this dynamic, modern campaign will make people use Pitt only on No.5. He joins a host of celeb- think in a completely different way about No.5.” rity faces to front the 91-year-old scent — from While d’Avack declined to comment on the ad- Ali MacGraw, Catherine Deneuve and Candice vertising spend for the Pitt campaign, industry Bergen to Nicole Kidman, Audrey Tautou and sources estimated that the brand was spending at Vanessa Paradis. least $10 million on U.S. advertising, as well as an While he wouldn’t spill many details, d’Avack estimated $7 million for Pitt’s services. — J.N. Ulta Lands Starring Role on Reality TV Show to come onboard. IN OCTOBER By MOLLY PRIOR In addition to being featured in Ulta’s fall and holiday print and online campaigns next year, the ULTA BEAUTY wants to give aspiring models a winner of “The Face” will make public appear- dose of reality. ances in Ulta stores, blog about beauty tips and YOU CAN TOO! The beauty retailer will provide the grand represent Ulta at fashion week next fall. prize on the upcoming reality TV show “The Rubin, for his part, will not make a cameo on Face,” where models will compete to be the face the series, but said a host of Ulta makeup artists of Ulta’s fall and holiday 2013 national ad cam- and hairstylists will, as they help model hopefuls paigns. Throughout the series, hosted by photog- prep for the various competitions. rapher Nigel Barker, , Karolina With no shortage of reality-based, model Kurkova and Coco Rocha will coach 24 up-and- competitions on TV at the moment — including coming models, who will be split into three teams. “America’s Next Top Model” where Barker was a “I’m the coach who gives tough love,” said judge until earlier this year — “The Face” aims to SEE WHAT Campbell, who also serves as the show’s execu- stand apart by presenting competitors with chal- tive producer. “I care about all of the girls a great lenges designed to accurately reflect a career as deal and I want them all to be successful, so I give a model, and by dangling a hefty prize: to be the them lots of direction and feedback so that they’re face of a brand. prepared for the “We’ve got some YOU’VE real world of mod- of the biggest models eling. I want them in the world mentor- to learn from me ing and coaching the and implement it competitors,” said into their work and Jane Olson, senior give it their all.” vice president, mar- BEEN MISSING! Filming is cur- keting and brand rently under way in strategy at Oxygen New York for “The Media. “There’s a Face,” which will sense of realness CEW.ORG/BEAUTYINSIDER air in early 2013 [to the show],” said on Oxygen. Olson. She added But Ulta says that the three coach- don’t expect the es bring real life usual backstabbing experience as a suc- and career sabotage cessful model and rampant on similar Nigel Barker (left) with Naomi Campbell, and brand spokesperson, show concepts. Coco Rocha during filming of “The Face.” and the challenges “We don’t want featured on the show to be associated with anything catty,” said Chuck are situations that working models actually face. Your all access pass expires Rubin, president and chief executive officer of “To be the face of a brand is a really big deal and Ulta. “The show’s premise of helping someone the coaches take their roles very seri- 10/31/12 who wants to be a model and look as best as she ously,” said Olson. No word on what other fashion can look is what we do everyday. And at the end, icons may appear on the series, but the coaching they are all going to look and feel better than trio of Campbell, Kurkova and Rocha all walked the Don’t miss out - join CEW to when the show started.” Rubin said the cast — runway at ’s recent fashion week show. featuring “some of the best names in the fashion Perhaps Posen will have a role. After all, Campbell industry” — and the show’s production company started a Twitter account the day of his runway remain a Beauty Insider Shine America — known for series such as “The show and has been tweeting about “The Face” ever Biggest Loser” and “The Office” — prompted Ulta since, as have fellow coaches Rocha and Kurkova. 8 WWD friday, october 5, 2012 WWD.COM As Defectors Mount, Comps Lose Relevance By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD {Continued from page one} Pennsylvania, said Target’s move to drop comps is in- The consultant noted that the same held true for dicative of a larger trend linked to economic volatility. Are comps kaput? other segments in retail. Instead, he relied on his firm’s Does the retailer see rougher days ahead? Coming off blazing August comparable-store sales internal research, which indicated that holiday will “It could be, but I think it’s more so that in a precari- John Aquino results, 20 retailers on Thursday reported a slate of likely be up low- to midsingle digits over last year. ous recovery like this, Target sees comps for what it is, tepid September numbers. But the sluggish results “Month-to-month reporting is volatile, and there’s no which is up and down,” she said. “With month-to-month were overshadowed by news that Target Corp. is pull- real value for retailers to report on a monthly basis. It’s reporting, there’s a little bit of noise.” photo by ing out of the monthly reporting regimen starting next not strategic,” Brown said, noting that Target’s decision By stepping out of the monthly spotlight, retailers are month. The retail giant’s departure has essentially to stop reporting isn’t indicative of a rough slog ahead, better able to tweak their business plans without worry- plucked $70 billion in annual sales out of the comp- but instead a smarter approach. ing as much about day-to-day stock fluctuations. store base — and now leaves only 19 retailers report- Susan Kahn, a Target spokeswoman, said the com- More and more business plans have veered toward ing comps, down from 32 just two years ago and 50 pany decided to pull the plug on comps after months of incorporating a robust omnichannel retail strategy, in five years ago. The decline has made it increasingly conversations with investors. which e-commerce plays a vital role. Retailers such as difficult to get a read on the health of the industry “The decision allows for a longer-term focus,” she said. Macy’s Inc. and Nordstrom Inc. have focused on inte- from monthly updates. “Many of our retail peers have already made this decision.” grating digital strategies that seamlessly drive shopping Target’s move isn’t a complete surprise. Wal-Mart Barbara Kahn, director of the Jay H. Baker Retailing from online to in-store. Stores Inc. stopped reporting three years ago, fol- Center at the Wharton School of the University of That kind of data is difficult to gauge in same-store lowed by a slew of teen retailers and, most recently, sales reporting, noted Clementine Martin Illanes, a re- a handful of department stores, including Saks Inc., tail strategist from Kurt Salmon. Neiman Marcus Inc. and J.C. Penney Co. Inc. september Comp Crux “The onmichannel market is still relatively un- At a luncheon at the New York Hilton on Tuesday, known,” she said. “There’s not a lot [for it] to go against Macy’s reported a less-than-expected 2.5 percent comp gain. Penney’s chief executive officer Ron Johnson ac- from an historical perspective. We’re still trying to fig- knowledged that the road to reinvention of his com- BACK-TO-SCHOOL BUMMER: September comparable- ure out what attracts shoppers to online versus to in the were more subdued than in August or for the year-to-date pany has been rocky, but he noted that looking at store sales came in not only significantly below those stores. Retailers are still in learning mode.” trend,” he said, explaining that more difficult compari- monthly comps is “irrelevant if you’re looking for- for August (up 6.1 percent) but, even when excluding Experts agreed that while digital selling won’t re- sons and stronger, more promotional back-to-school sales ward” instead of back. the struggling drugstore sector, at their lowest level place brick-and-mortar shopping, it is becoming in- in August were to blame for the less impressive numbers. Then there is the specialty apparel market, — up 3.6 percent — since June’s 2.5 percent uptick. creasingly important to a retailer’s success. Ironically, September’s 3.9 percent overall comp gain paled where only 10 companies tracked by WWD still re- And according to Thomson Reuters, the beat-miss comp reporting doesn’t fully shed light on that side of in comparison with August’s high-flying 6.1 percent in- port comps, and half of them are owned by either ratio among reporting stores also approached the June the business, even though retailers have recently begun crease, but that was to be expected, according to the Gap Inc. or Limited Brands Inc. Specialty retail- swoon. Eight companies beat analysts’ expectations folding e-commerce sales results into comps. ICSC. The group projected the September sales would ers such as Abercrombie & Fitch Co., J. Crew Group while nine missed them, although it took Target “Retailers are really thinking a lot about customer rise between 3 percent and 4 percent. Inc., Aéropostale Inc., American Eagle Outfitters Corp.’s 0.1-point shortfall in its final episode of experience and how to leverage different channels,” “The right way to look at this is to look at August and Inc., Urban Outfitters Inc., Ann Inc., The Talbots Inc. monthly reporting to pull the missers ahead of the Martin Illanes said. “I think we could start to see some September together,” Wharton’s Kahn said of the uneven Chico’s FAS Inc. and Pacific Sunwear of California beaters. In June, just six retailers beat estimates very exciting things in the next year, but the economy results. “It’s not really that interesting. One month is bet- Inc. are all out of the game. while 12 missed them. and the presidential election are underlying factors.” ter than expected and the next isn’t. They counterbal- When asked about the health of the specialty chan- Digital aside, the other elephant in the room is still ance each other.” nel based on the monthly results, Michael Brown, a AMONG THE MISSING: The Buckle Inc., previously a the economy and how consumers react to the somewhat While the numbers didn’t indicate any larger shifts, partner in the retail practice at A .T. Kearney, didn’t dependable double-digit comp increase generator, stagnant macroeconomic issues, such as unemployment. Kahn did note that each month the industry is witness- even feign an opinion. has seen declines in three of the last four months. As a result, while some analysts hemmed and ing its own recovery. “I think if you look at the companies reporting, it’s September’s 0.8 percent drop came against estimates hawed over Target, others were laser-focused on the “It’s slow but steady — and I predict we’ll see a con- hard to get a handle of what’s going on,” he admitted. of a 1 percent gain and, revealingly, against a September comp results, which saw consumers voting tinuation of that for Christmas,” she said. September 2011 increase of 10.3 percent. Although with their wallets. And in perhaps an indication of the they had respective gains of 2.5 and 4.4 percent, difficulty of reading the state of retail from comps, the Macy’s Inc. and Nordstrom Inc. made rare visits to S&P Retailing Industry Group rose 0.9 percent, or 5.73 the miss list, joining midtier Kohl’s Corp. among the points, to 668.44 Thursday despite the weak results. september department store disappointments. Calling the results “disappointing,” IHS Global Insight senior principal economist Chris Christopher Comparable sales SEEMS LIKE OLD TIMES: A Gap Inc. division with a noted that midtier department stores are still feeling double-digit sales increase? It’s becoming almost the squeeze much like their core customers. sept. 2012 sept. 2011 aug. 2012 july 2012 a common occurrence once again. Old Navy North “It is more of a fight for a larger piece of the shrinking % Change % Change % Change % Change America was up 10 percent last month, making the pie. Americans have become increasingly price conscious DepaRtMent stORes third time this fiscal year it’s moved into double-digit and are always looking for a good deal,” he said. “Those Bon-Ton 0.6 -3.6 2.2 0.0 territory. Banana Republic enjoyed a 12 percent department chain stores that succeed in offering fashion- upswing in February and Gap a 13 percent bound in able items at a nice price or supplementing their brick- Kohl’s -2.7 4.1 3.4 1.7 July. Gap’s international unit has continued to post and-mortar sales with cyber sales are on the right path. macy’s 2.5 4.9 5.1 4.1 same-store declines, including a 3 percent dip in However, trying and succeeding are two different matters.” nordsTrom 4.4 10.7 21.0 0.9 September. Still, year-to-date corporate comps are Michael Niemira, vice president of research and up 5 percent. chief economist for the International Council of sTage sTores 11.1 -0.7 6.5 5.3 — ARNOLD J. KARR Shopping Centers offered a more optimistic view. aveRage: 3.2 3.1 7.6 2.6 “September industry sales remained healthy — though speCIalty ChaIns Banana repuBlic 4.0 -1.0 8.0 8.0 BaTh & Body WorKs 5.0 12.0 6.0 17.0 Stocks Log Gains Ahead of Jobs Report BucKle -0.8 10.3 4.5 -0.1 high gas prices leads us to expect Inditex, 2.7 percent to 99.35 euros; caTo -4.0 -3.0 0.0 -2.0 By SAMANTHA CONTI promotional activity will remain Yoox, 3.1 percent to 10.62 euros, gap (u.s. sTores) 5.0 -4.0 9.0 13.0 and EVAN CLARK the key driver for consumer traffic. and Marks and Spencer Group plc, old navy 10.0 -1.0 12.0 12.0 As a result, we expect gross mar- 1 percent to 3.66 pounds. RETAIL STOCKS gained ground gins to be flat to slightly down for The euro traded at $1.29 perfumania -3.9 11.3 -2.3 3.2 Thursday as investors looked most retailers.” against the dollar while the pound vicToria’s secreT 6.0 13.0 9.0 12.0 past mostly tepid September There is some hope that the job traded at $1.61 and the Swiss franc WeT seal -12.7 -0.3 -18.3 -15.6 sales to Friday’s update on the market will show signs of strength traded at $1.07. job market. today, but economists expect the The Bank of England kept zumiez 5.6 10.1 3.7 7.5 The S&P Retailing Industry unemployment rate to rise to 8.2 its benchmark interest rate un- aveRage: 1.4 4.7 3.2 5.5 Group rose 0.9 percent, or 5.73 percent from 8.1 percent. The U.S. changed at 0.5 percent and opted points, to 668.44 as the Dow Jones hasn’t seen unemployment below 8 not to inject more money into the Industrial Average rose 0.6 per- percent since January 2009. economy than the current 375 bil- Mass MeRChants cent, or 80.75 points, to 13,575.36. In Europe, stock markets ended lion pound program, although the Picking up steam were Chico’s their day on a broadly flat after BBC reported that the bank could cosTco * 5.0 7.0 6.0 7.0 FAS Inc., up 4 percent to $18.69; the region’s central bankers de- increase that figure next month. ross sTores 5.0 5.0 8.0 7.0 Tumi Holdings Inc., 3.9 percent to cided to keep benchmark interest On the Continent, the sTein marT 2.4 -1.7 5.6 2.8 $23.91; Oxford Industries Inc., 3.5 rates on ice. European Central Bank also percent to $57.26; Hot Topic Inc., The FTSE 100 in London opted to maintain its rate at a TargeT 2.1 5.3 4.2 3.1 3.4 percent to $9.05, and Express climbed 0.03 percent to 5,827.78 as record low of 0.75 percent. The TJX cos. 6.0 4.0 8.0 7.0 Inc., 3.4 percent to $11.71. other major markets fell. The DAX bank’s president, Mario Draghi, aveRage: 4.1 3.9 6.4 7.0 None of those companies re- in Frankfurt and the FTSE MIB said the decision to keep the rate ported sales for September. Fitch in Milan both sank 0.2 percent, to steady was unanimous. tally: Ratings described the reports from 7,305.21 and to 15,511.25, respec- Draghi also talked about the those that did report as “subdued,” tively. The CAC 40 in Paris was bank’s efforts to reduce rising in- up 15 12 17 16 but “positive overall.” down 0.1 percent to 3,401.20. terest rates in troubled European flaT 0 0 1 1 “Given back-to-school results, Retail and luxury stocks were countries through a new bond-buy- doWn 5 8 2 3 we expect holiday retail sales to up, with the high street and ing program and sought to dispel grow at 3 to 4 percent, versus 4.1 Internet stocks among the best any doubts about the future of the tOtal 20 20 20 20 percent in 2011,” Fitch said. “The performers. The gainers included common currency. “The euro is ir- source: company reporTs * eXcludes fuel sales. sluggish economic and employ- Asos.com, which climbed 2.9 per- reversible,” he said at a press con- ment environment coupled with cent to 22.82 pounds; Zara’s parent ference in Slovenia.

w05a008a;9.indd 8 10/4/12 8:03 PM 10042012200417 PUMP iT UP: was on hand for A . P. c.’s 25th birthday party in Paris Wednesday WWD STYLE evening. PAge 10 MeMo pad

LAWrence DePArTS: W magazine has struggled to recover to its prerecession heights, when it could command more than 400 pages in a September issue. But it has begun to find its footing recently. So on Thursday afternoon, it came as a surprise to Condé Nast management and W staff that the magazine’s loudest cheerleader, publisher nina Lawrence, said she would be departing to become The Wall Street Journal’s new vice president of global marketing, advertising sales. She broke the news to Condé Nast chief executive officer charles Townsend earlier that day. “My message was, I’ve loved this company and I love my job, but I’ve been fortunate to be offered a huge opportunity at the most monetized brand in the world, a company with huge scale, and uncompromising journalistic authority, and it’s the right time for me to take this opportunity,” Lawrence said. Townsend was taken aback, she said, adding, “Everyone was.” The timing was especially curious because W has its national sales meeting in two weeks, though it now may be postponed. Lawrence, who got her start at Time magazine 25 years ago, had also grown into the role of a Condé lifer. She’d been publisher of Mademoiselle and Brides and, in 2005, became the publisher of W, for a career at Condé that altogether spans 15 years. When she joined W, the title was a powerhouse — its September issue that year commanded 388 pages, according to Media Industry Newsletter. This year’s September issue had 246. The high-end magazine struggled after the 2008 recession and only recently has begun to regain traction. Even as pages slipped, Lawrence survived a change in editors when Stefano Tonchi succeeded longtime editor in chief Patrick Mccarthy in 2010. Some of the credit for the resurgence goes to Tonchi, who is something of a shadow publisher. But also, to some extent, W had nowhere to go but up or it would have been in real trouble. The November 40th anniversary issue is fat with ad pages — 191, versus 93 the year before, according to MIN. Night School The magazine is up 12 percent through November, according to MIN. “I’m not leaving out of any NEW YORK — The 35th anniversary gala for Studio negative element,” she said. “I’m in a School on Tuesday evening brought out a mix of leaving because the opportunity is so great ahead of me.” bold-faced arts patrons including a cozy-looking Olivier Michael F. rooney, the Journal’s Sarkozy and Mary-Kate Olsen. For more, see page 10. chief revenue officer, approached Lawrence about the job. The two of them had known each other since their days at Discover magazine. At the Journal, where she starts Nov. 1, according to a spokeswoman, Lawrence will be responsible for creating marketing and business development efforts for the publication’s global sales team, which handles print and digital sales for the Wall Street Journal Europe as well as several other international editions. A spokeswoman for Condé Nast PHOTO BY STeve eicHner said there were no plans to name a publisher in the interim. — eriK MAZA

w05a009a.indd 1 10/4/12 7:50 PM 10042012195145 10 WWD FRIDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2012

Jarvis Cocker Olympia and and Kim Sion Cleo Le-Tan

Birthday Jams A.P.C.’S 25TH birthday party As guests sipped Champagne Kanye West and Wednesday evening, at the end from old-fashioned coupes, Jean Touitou of , drew an a pianist played a quirky eye eclectic, cool crowd, which was lineup including numbers like made up largely of friends of Technotronic’s late Eighties hit brand founder Jean Touitou. Guests “Pump Up the Jam.” included Jarvis Cocker, Kanye West, “I’m just talking to some Victoire de Castellane and Olympia people I haven’t seen for a while,” Le-Tan. The event, held at the mused Cocker, adding that in brand’s Left Bank headquarters terms of projects, one should at 39 Rue Madame, was also expect nothing surprising. “Same the occasion to celebrate the old, same old. I’m very consistent.” building’s renovation into a Joseph Mount, from rising bright, white studio space with a British band Metronomy, said central atrium. he is taking some time off after “I bought this place 15 years finishing the festival circuit ago, but I couldn’t afford before heading into the studio to renovate it back then,” in November to work on a new Touitou explained. album, due out late next year Unusual for an apparel or early in 2014. “I’m going to brand, its headquarters also do things that excite me, and includes a recording studio, hopefully it will excite other in line with Touitou’s passion people as well,” he said.

STEPHANE FEUGERE for music (he likes to sing and Other faces spotted at the has an impressive collection of party included Bettina Rheims, guitars), perhaps explaining the Ellen von Unwerth, Elie Top and

PHOTOS BY number of musicians present. Sophie Calle. — ALEX WYNNE

Vito Schnabel and State of the Art Jemima Kirke WHEN SUPERPATRON tent taking in the fruits of the Agnes Gund’s name is on the organization’s labor: artwork invitation, it is sure to drum up created by the program’s the support of some of the art students. Champagne flutes world’s heaviest hitters. Artists, circled the crowd along with dealers, and collectors aplenty kid-friendly hors d’oeuvres were on hand Tuesday for a including mac ’n’ cheese bites 35th anniversary gala for Studio and peanut butter and jam tea in a School, the nonprofit sandwiches. Stavros Niarchos, founded by Gund, held at the with gap-toothed gal pal Jessica tented Seagram Building Plaza Hart in tow, hit the bar shortly in Midtown. after arriving. The shipping “ Yo u don’t have a balanced heir, who removed his bow tie life if you don’t have art,” and unbuttoned the top button Agnes Gund Jessica said Gund, dressed in an of his dress shirt promptly after in Lanvin. Hart emerald, floor-length Lanvin realizing a tuxedo might have frock. Founded in 1977, the been overkill, narrowly missed organization brings professional ex Mary-Kate Olsen, who snuck in artists into New York public with current beau Olivier Sarkozy schools whose art programs have just as the last latecomers were FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE been significantly downsized. seated for dinner. WWD.com/eye. “Art shouldn’t be prohibited Guests sat at decorative STEVE EICHNER in public schools when kids in tables — tablecloths and private schools always get it,” place mats were also student Gund continued. creations — to feast on more PHOTOS BY Jeff Koons, who was honored at quasi-kid-friendly fare like the affair, echoed the sentiment. butternut squash soup with a “Art is always crucial,” he goat cheese and fig jam crouton said shortly after posing for and chicken pot pie with swiss photographers. “For some people, chard and baby turnips. Bowls art really lets people externalize of M&Ms and crayons served as ideas. They understand concepts table settings. in physics and mathematics The crowd got into the more clearly, where if they childlike spirit, refusing to were left to only use these other pipe down when Patty Harris, expressions of knowledge, they’d filling in for an absent Mayor be incredibly limited.” Michael Bloomberg, attempted Fellow guests such as Dorothy to begin the ceremony. “Can Lichtenstein, Larry Gagosian, I please have everyone’s Vera Wang, Yvonne Force Villareal attention?” the deputy mayor and Vito Schnabel, who arrived asked impatiently. “I thought Yvonne Force with a very pregnant Jemima we should, like, begin the Villareal in Gucci. Kirke on his arm, roamed the program…” — TAYLOR HARRIS WWD FRIDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2012 11 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS

makes for happy guests. You always want to make every person feel as though they are the most important person in the room,” she said. As for any missteps to avoid when planning a party, Rollins said, “Boring people and bad attitudes — that’s pretty much it.” And while some hostesses might be embarrassed, if a guest turns up in

the same dress, Rose dealt with such SCHMIDT

a scenario (never mind one she had ELI

Looks from BY designed) with her signature élan. MEI New York. The designer said she told her look- alike friend, “I promised to give her PHOTOS money back.” — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

The exclusive Fendi T-shirt designed by Karl LOVE LETTERS: “I love any award that’s NEW DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT Lagerfeld for e-commerce. MEI New York an accessory,” Glenda Bailey said, patting the green medal that Alber “I HAVE NOTHING TO WEAR.” For many and going across the world. It’s the modern FOLLOWING THE THREAD: Fendi’s Elbaz had just pinned to the left lapel women, this is an everyday mantra. For Mei woman, and thinking about what she can do celebration of the Baguette’s 15th of her Lanvin tuxedo dress. “At last Zee, it was inspiration. and when she has a choice, and just feeling birthday is reaching its zenith in the I’ve got something in common with Dissatisfied with her professional ward- liberated in her daily life.” online world. On Thursday, the Roman Meryl Streep and George Clooney.” robe, Zee, along with fellow University of This military inspiration also sparked house launched a pop-up Internet Karl Lagerfeld, Sarah Burton, Peter California at Berkeley grad Amy Jin de- another breakthrough for the brand — their store dedicated to the bag. The offering Copping, Carven’s Guillaume Henry, Jean cided to take matters into their own hands, first foray into prints. ranges from T-shirts and scarves Paul Goude and a host of top luxury founding MEI New York. “I was trying to figure out this spring featuring sketches by Fendi’s ready-to- executives gathered at the Bristol “There’s a void in professional women’s season, and I stumbled upon a picture of wear designer Karl Lagerfeld to a do-it- Hotel to watch the British editor in clothing that’s fashionable and has deep this dazzle camo ship,” Zee says. “I thought yourself kit to decorate a Baguette with chief of American Harper’s Bazaar thought,” says Zee, a veteran of the industry it was an art showcase or exhibit, but then needlepoint embroidery. In addition to be decorated as a Chevalier des Arts (most recently at and Ralph realized it was something legitimate, and selections of vintage Baguettes, there et des Lettres. Given by France’s Lauren). “That was how we jump-started used back in World War I as a technique are also 100 Geometric styles in striped culture ministry, the distinction on the brand, and I think we still have that ships used to confuse the enemy. That was canvas with leather trim. recognizes significant contributions professional woman that we’re catering to- a huge part of our signature print.” The “Baguette operation,” as Fendi to the arts, literature or the ward. But at the same time, it could be any The clothes are strong, smart and to the chief Pietro Beccari calls it, kicked propagation of these fields. woman, from any industry.” point, comprised of crafted outerwear (re- off in June with the publication of Since launching in September 2011 tailing from $375 to $550), mix-and-match a coffee-table book by Rizzoli and a (spring is their second collection), Zee separates ($175 to $330) and simple sheath series of events in Fendi boutiques and Jin, a full-time Google Authors em- dresses ($250 to $545). and specialty stores such as Maxfield MAITRE ployee, have creatively honed in on their Next up is a collaboration with SoHo bou- in Los Angeles and 10 Corso Como career-girl muse, while maintaining a tique Kisan. Dubbed MEI + Kisan, the cap- in Milan. The Web site, at baguette. modern vintage aesthetic. sule collection will showcase five silk dresses fendi.com and equipped for commerce DOMINIQUE For their spring lineup, the New York- in a natural color palette and yet-to-be deter- BY in Europe, the U.S. and Japan, also based designers turned to the naval era of mined print. “It’s still in the works, but we

showcases a video entitled “The Art PHOTO World War I for inspiration. “There are a lot are going to do something in reference to sea of Embroidery.” Done in collaboration women out there who don’t really have a lot creatures for some graphic patterns that al- with artist Maurizio Anzeri, it’s a portrait of freedom when thinking about what they most mimic optical illusions,” says Zee. of the Baguette’s designer, Silvia can wear. For me that’s what spring is real- MEI’s fall collection was picked up by Venturini Fendi. — MILES SOCHA ly about,” says Jin, who serves as MEI New Thistle & Clover, Dagny & Barstow and New York’s cofounder and chief financial officer. Orleans-based Vernon Clothing. Beginning THE VIEW FROM THE VERANDA: Tuesday “It’s about this idea of liberation in World next spring, some pieces will be sold at night’s dreary weather didn’t deter War I, where folks were getting on ships meinewyork.com. — LAUREN MCCARTHY guests from weathering the rain to celebrate Danielle Rollins’ new book Glenda Bailey and Alber Elbaz “Soiree: Entertaining With Style” at Saks Fifth Avenue. The author and Veranda contributing editor was in “It’s a lot more fun working with good company with fellow hosts Lela Glenda than trying to compete with Rose, Celerie Kemble, Jill Fairchild and her,” Duncan Edwards, president and Hilary Dick, each of whom decorated a chief executive officer of Hearst table in their style. A business trip to Magazines International, told the crowd, Spain kept Rachel Roy from cohosting generating a round of knowing chuckles. For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. as planned, but the event drew the Elbaz called Bailey the “fairy likes of Susan Gutfreund, Bettina Zilkha godmother of this bizarre fashion and Christopher Burch. Gutfreund said industry,” and lauded her great style boils down to good manners. powers of persuasion. He recounted Spaces While signing copies of the book how she once had him pose for a (with perfectly matching blue Sharpie photo seated on a chair that seemed pens), Rollins said inviting the right to float on a Central Park lake. COMMERCIAL mix of people helps guarantee a good “Another year she turned me into,” REAL ESTATE ASSISTANT TECHNICAL DESIGNER SALES REP Fast Paced Sportswear company seek- time. “It’s always about your guests. he said, pausing for dramatic effect, ing an assistant tech designer who is We are women’s fashion manufactur- Being a gracious and happy hostess “James Bond.” — MILES SOCHA organized, detail oriented and hard ing and wholesaling company more working. Duties will include handling than 20 years based in Los Angeles, tech pacs and communicating with CA, and we are looking for a Sales factories off shore. Candidate must be Representative who has a showroom able to work in fast-paced design room or participates in New York apparel Showrooms & Lofts mart. Major Qualification: must have BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS and have knowledge of garment con- struction and consumption. In addi- existing/prospects LARGE accounts only. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail If interested, please email resume/ ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 tion to having proficiency in Adobe Il- lustrator and Photoshop, candidate portfolio to: [email protected] must be motivated, creative, able to multi-task and work well within the design team to meet deadlines. Send resumes and salary history to: [email protected]

ASST SPORTSWEAR DESIGNER Seeking experienced and well orga- nized assistant sportswear designer for a leading clothing manufacturer. Must PATTERNS, SAMPLES, be experienced w/sample room, com- PRODUCTIONS puter literate, communicate with fac- Full service shop to the trade. tories off shore, able to work in fast- Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 paced design room and have knowl- edge of garment construction and con- sumption. Candidate must be motiva- ted, creative, able to multi-task and work well within the design team to meet deadlines. Salary no more than $30k/year; email resumes to: AQUINO [email protected] JOHN BY (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] PHOTOS From left: Celerie Kemble, Jill Fairchild, Danielle Rollins, Lela Rose and Hilary Dick. 12 WWD friday, october 5 , 2012 ’’ WWD.COM

By MiLEs socHa and JoELLE didERicH PPR’s Pinault Sees Ample Room for Growth PaRis — For the past 50 years, the fashion business {Continued from page one} Questioned about whether PPR might we would be interested if we could have have soles in contrasting colors. The brand directed most of its efforts towards some 800 million “of course, acquisitions are not going be interested in Lacoste sa, which is em- [full control of] everything,” he said. recently opened its first stores in Madrid consumers in the wealthiest regions of the world: the to disappear,” Pinault said. “But they will broiled in a family dispute following the Todd Hymel, chief operating officer and Barcelona, and will unveil another in U.s., western Europe and Japan. make a very minor contribution to the surprise nomination last week of sophie of PPR’s sport and lifestyle division, said the French ski resort of chamonix later Training its sights on the next half a century, PPR group’s growth.” Lacoste dournel as president of its non- Puma currently generates 95 percent of this month. spies a broader world as demographics and economic Group managing director Jean-François executive board, Palus demurred. that pole’s revenues, which in 2011 totaled PPR has recruited a new chief execu- development promise to deliver some 3 billion young Palus noted that Balenciaga has multiplied “we don’t get involved in family con- 3.2 billion euros, or $4.5 billion at average tive officer to drive growth at Tretorn, and and affluent consumers from such emerging nations in size by 11 times since it was acquired in flicts,” he said. “Lacoste is a fantastic exchange rates. should reveal the name later this month, as china, indonesia, Mexico, Brazil and Russia. 2000, with alexander McQueen growing by Hymel said, noting the swedish heritage so says PPR chairman and chief executive offi- a factor of 12 since a majority stake in the brand would maintain its focus on rubber- cer François-Henri Pinault, who hosted a press day London-based fashion firm was purchased What is at stake in the longer-term, based footwear and guard its tennis roots. on Thursday with his top managers to elaborate on later that same year. “Tretorn is nowhere near its potential,” the French group’s transformation from a retail-to- PPR will continue to make strategic he said. luxury conglomerate to an integrated firm focused on acquisitions in segments where it is not that is to say over the next 50 years Meanwhile, Electric, a specialist in apparel and accessories in the luxury and sport-and- present — or to achieve a certain business aitre snow goggles and eyewear, is to unveil a lifestyle segments. objective, Palus said. To wit: Puma’s 2010 m or so, is absolutely huge and without line of helmets for mountain sports, keep- “what is at stake in the longer-term, that is to say acquisition of the california golf equip- ing its focus on “premium technical acces- over the next 50 years or so, is absolutely huge and ment brand cobra Golf was partly to help sories,” Hymel noted.

Dominique precedent in human history. without precedent in human history,” Pinault said. the German activewear brand penetrate Palus said PPR was working to fix de- This means that PPR has plenty of potential to grow pro shops, an exclusive yet vital distribu- — François-Henri Pinault, PPr clining profitability at Puma, saying it sales, even without acquisitions. in 2011 as a whole, tion channel in North america, he noted. photo by would not sacrifice profits to achieve its PPR recorded sales of 12.23 billion euros, or $17.03 “we don’t need acquisitions, so it’s per- target of sales of 4 billion euros, or $5.16 billion, up 11.1 percent on the previous year. Pinault fectly possible we won’t make any for 10 brand, but it is a bit constrained by its li- while noting he sees “enormous op- billion at current exchange rates, by 2015. hopes to triple the size of its core luxury and sport & years. it doesn’t matter,” Palus said. “we cense model.” Palus noted that PPR does portunities for growth in china” for Puma, “we are not fanatics,” he said. “in 2015, lifestyle divisions by 2020 and increase revenues to 24 would like to consummate acquisitions to not grant licenses for any category of prod- he accentuated initiatives at its smaller we won’t be posting higher revenues with billion euros, or $31.1 billion at current exchange. speed up our expansion and growth, but if ucts that it has the know-how to produce in- action-sports brands, showing off the first lower profits. we will have higher sales He reiterated that the group would look to buy we don’t, we will still deliver growth.” house. “certainly, we could take Lacoste. prototypes for Volcom sneakers, which with higher profits.” mainly small and medium-sized firms with strong growth potential, saying that one of the areas it was interested in expanding was the outdoor segment. that every LiM student is given e-tailing, mobile marketing, business cards. with plans to eventually add Marcuse: 10 Years at LIM’s Helm Tuition for the 2012-13 aca- courses in web merchandis- demic year is $22,420 for the ing, basic app development the New York school of interior one day in the classroom and undergraduate program, and and web analytics. several of By Lisa Lockwood design, serves in that role. she one day online. “it gives them $41,565 for the entire M.B.a. the graduates have gone on to also hired a new vice presi- greater flexibility in how they program’’ (five terms). jobs at dot-coms such as macys. NEw YoRk — Elizabeth s. dent of academic affairs, Milan manage their out-of-classroom The campus is located in four com, Gilt Groupe and Rue La Marcuse, the 49-year-old presi- Milasinovic, who oversees both hours,” she said. buildings scattered throughout La. students are required to do dent of LiM college, has found the undergraduate and gradu- in recent years, LiM has Midtown. in 1965, it bought its internships throughout their herself at home in the world ate programs, as well as named morphed from a commuter current flagship building at 12 undergraduate years, and often of academia. a new associate dean for expe- campus to one where half the East 53rd street. in 2003 and choose retailers, fashion and over the past 10 years, riential education and career students are residential (LiM 2004, LiM’s campus expanded accessories firms, event plan- Marcuse has built a team at the management, dudley Blossom. residence hall or New York to 226 East 54th street (center ning and p.r. companies. its New York city-based college Marcuse said that the school city apartments) and half the for career development) and graduates have taken jobs at that has allowed her to focus on continues to evolve and change students commute. The col- 216 East 45th (Maxwell Hall), firms such as Neiman Marcus, the big picture. That includes over time. “we relooked at lege opened a residential hall respectively, and, in 2006, it Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, saks making its students more glob- where the holes were and what Fifth avenue, Barneys New ally and technologically com- did we need to do to strengthen, York, avon, The Limited, petitive and responding to what and what do we need to do to re- Victoria’s secret, Lord & Taylor, the fashion industry needs from main nimble,” she said. LiM has Gap, sephora and Phillips-Van its workforce in the 21st century. added to its full-time faculty and Heusen, in addition to kcd “i learned very early on in its adjunct faculty, who are prac- worldwide and sony BMG. my career that there was no ‘i’ titioners in the industry. “They Earlier this year, LiM became in team. i’d say one of my proud- get stronger and stronger every the first student association of est accomplishments is the team semester, and stay with us lon- the National Retail Federation, that we cultivated and devel- ger,” she said. and a group of students did an oped here,” said Marcuse, who among some of the notable online survey of 18- to 25-year- spent 20 years in the fashion new faculty are Virginia Blake olds and their shopping habits. industry before joining LiM. west, former brand develop- in 2009, LiM added an M.B.a. Prior to succeeding her father, ment director for Unilever, program. “The M.B.a. program

adrian G. Marcuse, as president who is teaching the marketing chinsee has been a home run for this in- in 2002, she was director of re- capstone course; Maryanne stitution. we have just received

tail planning at donna karan Grisz, executive producer george the approval to launch our sec-

international, and before that of “dressed,” a documenta- by ond master’s degree program. was director of retail planning at ry film about designer Nary it’s a Master of Professional

Mamiye sales inc., a children’s Manivong, teaches the Fashion photos studies in fashion merchandis- wear manufacturer. Earlier, she Fundamentals course; John Above: Elizabeth S. Marcuse ing and retail management,” was a buyer at Lane Bryant and Favreau, currently senior vice Right: The entrance to LIM. said Marcuse. The one-year pro- Montgomery ward and began her president of business develop- gram will officially launch next career in the executive training ment for the Mccall Pattern co., at 1760 Third avenue september. LiM will also add a program at Macy’s. teaches product development, in 2008, which brought new track in the fashion mer- LiM college, which was origi- and kathy ahn, former direc- almost 400 students chandising major called Home nally known as the Laboratory tor of production for Polo Ralph under one umbrella. Fashions. LiM’s M.B.a. gradu- institute of Merchandising, was Lauren’s women’s Blue Label, There are lectures ates have been placed at compa- founded by Marcuse’s grandfa- teaches product development. given by fashion professionals, added a state-of-the-art facil- nies such as Polo Ralph Lauren, ther, Maxwell F. Marcuse, in 1939. according to Marcuse, the leadership seminars and eve- ity at 545 Fifth avenue at 45th chanel, Gucci, Tory Burch, He set up a mock store, and ex- five-year plan is to strengthen ning activities throughout the street. The entire campus is ann inc., Bergdorf Goodman, periential learning became the the academic program and semester at the school. wireless. Marcuse said LiM Bloomingdale’s, Jones apparel backbone of the institution. The help the students become more “as we become more diverse, plans to add 4,300 square feet Group, Burberry, Juicy couture, original mission was to establish globally competitive, and glob- so have the clubs on campus rec- of space at Maxwell Hall in the and . a school for women to be trained ally and technologically flu- ognizing the differences among spring semester, which will in- Marcuse said she’s looking to in skills other than secretarial. ent. she has also expanded its students, whether that’s promot- clude an enlarged student union elevate LiM’s profile to employ- its first graduating class had 79 study abroad offerings, adding ing safety on campus, antibul- area and a food vendor. For the ers, prospective students and women. Today, there are 1,480 australia to its semester abroad lying or gay and lesbian aware- eighth consecutive year, LiM their families. some 70 percent undergraduates and 73 gradu- program, which includes other ness. it’s typical of any college was named among the “Best in of the student body comes from ate students. The institution’s tag regions such as asia and south campus. The thing i’ve learned the Northeast” colleges by the the Tristate area, and Marcuse line is “where Business Meets america. it also offers students from these students is they have Princeton Review. in a move said one initiative is to recruit Fashion,” and the curriculum fo- a trip to china every summer chosen to go someplace differ- to help its students become international students. despite cuses on fashion merchandising, with two faculty members. she ent. They know they don’t have more globally attuned, LiM of- all the changes to the LiM ex- visual merchandising, marketing said while LiM remains small the large quad, the large cam- fers classes in spanish, italian, perience, the student body still and management. and intimate and experiential pus, the tailgating parties. They French and Mandarin. skews towards women. some 93 in addition to dramatically education is at its core, it has have New York city at their fin- Last spring, LiM launched percent of the undergraduates increasing the enrollment, been adding new courses and gertips. They have the possibility a digital business strategy con- are female. at the M.B.a. level, Marcuse has strengthened the programs, as well as online of completing three internships centration. “it came about 94 percent are female. one stra- administration. she recently learning. For example, it has and a very good chance of being from conversations among the tegic initiative that they’re look- reintroduced an executive vice added hybrid courses where, employed when they graduate faculty,” said Marcuse. she ing into is how to target men. president position. christopher rather than spend two days in because they’ve been given the said the courses include digi- “Because we have successful J. cyphers, former president of the classroom, students spend tools,” said Marcuse. she noted tal marketing, social media, men who are here,” she said.

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