Exploring ’s Museums Discover arts, culture, history and innovation in ’s most enigmatic city

『令和2年度 文化庁 地域と共働した博物館創造活動支援事業』 Supported by the Agency for Cultural A airs, Government of Japan in fi scal year 2020 Introduction Contents

Osaka may be known as the “eat ‘til you drop,” entertainment capital of Japan, but it is also home to world-class museums and cultural venues that make a memorable day out for all the family.

he term “second city” is frequently applied to a na- tion’s second-largest metropolitan area. But in the Tcase of Osaka, residents may not settle for being a mere “second” after Tokyo, proud as they are of their dis- tinctive history and heritage. Just for starters, Osaka is some 1,000 years older than Tokyo, the mysteries of its 7th-century imperial palace still being unearthed. And while Tokyo (then called Edo), was the city of the Shogun and samurai warriors, who traditionally shunned the handling of money and were inept in the ways of business, Osaka, on the other hand, was Above: A model at Osaka Museum of History always the city of merchants, and as such prioritized good (p.10) shows how the ancient imperial Naniwa food and good living. This can be seen in the joie de vivre Palace once looked. Archaeologists working out and straight-forward manner of the locals today. of the museum are still unravelling its mysteries. What’s more, thanks to the patronage of Osaka’s wealthy merchants over centuries, the arts have been able to flourish here. The city’s prosperous families, such as the Sumitomo and the Ataka, used their fortunes to purchase exquisite collections, which even today are considered amongst the world’s finest. Left: Osaka Science An international port city, Osaka has also been a hub for Museum (p. 14) brings the exchange of ideas, shaped by its strong ties to the Asian the fundamentals of continent over generations. With several prestigious univer- physics to life through stimulating, hands- sities, it is also a seat for learning and cutting-edge research, on exhibits. particularly in the sciences. Such an environment has undeniably helped Osaka be- come a premier cultural destination, its museums treasure troves that have something to oer everyone—and with low rates of admission, you are guaranteed even greater value from your visit! (Be sure to check our advice on travel pass- es too.) Whether you are looking to gain a deeper understanding of Japan, or searching for activities that will keep the kids endlessly entertained, the five museums featured here—and their environs—are fantastic places to start your adventure in this enigmatic city.

2 Exploring Osaka’s Museums Contents

Introduction ...... 2 Maps ...... 4 Before you go ...... 5 The Museum of Oriental Ceramics, Osaka ...... 6 Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts ...... 8 Osaka Museum of History ...... 10 Osaka Museum of Natural History ...... 12 ...... 14 Did you know? ...... 16

About Administrative Agency for Osaka City Museums ...... 18

Published by The Administrative Agency for Osaka City Museums Editing, art direction ...... CB, Ltd. Above: Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts (p.8) has one Words ...... Edward J. Taylor of the most prestigious collections of East Asian art Photography ...... Boon Cheng Lim in Japan. This celadon water-dropper with an inlaid vine pattern from the Korea Gallery dates to the Cover image: Shiro-Kujaku (White peacocks) [detail], by Goryeo Dynasty (late 12th-13th century).

Ishizaki Koyo, 1922. From the collection of Below left: Two figurines of sumo wrestlers in Museum of Art, Osaka. Kakiemon-style Arita ware from the Japanese island of Kyushu, dating to the 1680s. From the Museum of © Administrative Agency for Osaka City Museums Oriental Ceramics, Osaka. First published March, 2021

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Exploring Osaka’s Museums 3 Loft Maruzen & Theater Junkudo

Post Office InterContinental Osaka Club Nakazaki-cho Hotel Hub Azul Club Noon Cine Libre Noon+Cafe Umeda New Hankyu Hankyu Kitano Umeda Sky Umeda Sta. Hosp. Building Osaka Hotel Grand Front Kids Plaza German Osaka / Kinokuniya Osaka Consulate Knowledge Capital H&M Miyakojima-dori Westin 35F Hankyu OWL Osaka Hotel Yodobashi Camera Tourist Toho umeda Center Annex Hotel TRAD Ogimachi Shangrila Osaka Umekita Hep 5 Kinki YWCA Park Plaza Umeda Hep Navio Hankyu Craft Beer Osaka Station Grand Bldg Toho Cinemas Base City Cinema Lucua Umeda Hankyu Higashidori Arcade Hankyu

Shin Midosuji Shin JR Osaka Dept. Lucua 1100 Sonezaki Daimaru Higashi Umeda Police H.Q. The Symphony Hall Osaka Umeda Club

Station City Quattro Hanshin Expressway (Moriguchi Route) Visitors’ Information Hotel Hanshin Center Granvia Dept. 6F Hilton The Blarney Hanshin Umeda Sta. Umeda Stone Plaza West Hilton Burg7 Hotel Drop Inn Kansai Osaka Hotel Always Herbis Dai-4 3/4F Hearton Ent Tower Bldg. Osaka Dental Maru Records 3RD WORD Beer Hotel Bldg. Clinic Hotel Nishiumeda Monterey Melbourne TGI Fridays Coffee Maps Osaka Dai-1 Dai-2 Dai-3 Nishi Umeda 2F Herbis Bldg. Bldg. Bldg. Osaka Creamy The Ritz-Carlton Kita Shinchi Osaka Tanimachi Line Captain Route No.2 Kangaroo KITA SHINCHI FUKUSHIMAHotel Outback Fukushima Sta. Hanshin Hotel Mystays Steakhouse Nakanoshima Premier Dojima US Dojima Avanza Consulate Hotel Elsereine JR Tozai Line Osaka ACCJ Fukushima Sta. Ana Crowne NISHI TENMA Kansai Plaza NTT DOJIMA H Data anshin Expressway (Loop Route) Museum of Shin-Fukushima Sta. Oriental Ceramics, Dojima River Nakanoshima Dori Osaka Forum Oebashi Conrad Bank of Library ABC Hall Watanabebashi Osaka Festival Japan City Hall Hall Keihan-Nakanoshima Line Nakanoshima Festival Osaka City Tower West Public Hall Naniwabashi Dojima River Tosabori River Mitsui Garden GARB Weeks Hotel

The National Yodoyabashi Mitsui Brooklyn Roasting Museum of Art, APA Hotel Higobashi Sumitomo Company Kitahama Osaka Bank Tenmabashi Osaka Rihga

Science Place Kitahama Museum HigobashiMinami-Morimachi Beer Belly NAKANOSHIMA KITAHAMA Keihan Mall Tozai Line Osaka Tenmangu Nakanoshima Sta. Rihga Royal Kyobashi Osaka Chakai Mint Taiko-en Kyobashi Hotel Museum APA Villa Nii Fine Arts Osaka Osakajo- Osaka International kitazume Hotel AEON Kyobashi YMCA Temmangu Shrine Convention Center Daiwa Roynet KYOBASHI ( Business Park Hotel KitahamaHotel Monterey Osaka) Museum of La Souer OsakaElmers Sumitomo Oriental Ceramics Green Cafe Shigino Hosp. TENMAYotsubashisuji Midosuji EDOBORI Hotel New Otani Maekawa Osaka Tosabori Dori Subway Tanimachi Line Law Firm Izumi Hall Tenmabashi

Tennoji Kitahama Craft BeerTennoji Osaka Castle Zepp Ward Office Osaka-jo Namba TAKAMURA Base Garden Hall Wine & Coffee Roasters Momodani Yuhigaoka Hotel OSTEC Amidaikesuji

Sakaisuji Line Sakaisuji Shitennoji-mae SHITENNOJIMystays Exibition Hall

Tenmabashi

Naniwasuji Sakaisuji Osaka-jo Koen Honmachi Osaka Prefectural Shitennoji Government Office Osaka

Ebisucho Castle Daikokucho Imamiya Honbo Hanshin Express Route 1 Daiichi Group Ebisu Shrine MyDome

Hanshin Expressway Osaka Hotel Osaka Museum Shitennoji Mystays Yamamoto TheKitamido Lutheran Subway Otemae Noh Theater Hotel of History Osaka Imamiyaebisu Utsubo Osaka Chamber of Castle Park Tennis Center Commerce and APA Soai

Tanimachi Line Industry APA Hotel EBISUNISHI Tsutenkaku Hotel NHKHigh Subway Imazato Line Osaka Loop Line Starbucks Osaka City OsakaSchool Hall TheKKR St. Hotel Regis, Honmachi Dori OsakaOsaka Museum of Subway Chuo Line Hotel Mystays Hanshin Expressway Higashi Osaka Route Fine Arts Morinomiya Midosuji Osaka Loop LineNaniwa Palace Honmachi Tanimachi 4-chome Site Park Morinomiya Osaka Q’s Mall BASE Sakaisuji Honmachi

Tennoji Honmachi Zoo Hard Rock Cafe Osaka

Spa World Honmachi Shin-Imamiya Chuo Odori Hanshin Expressway Honmachi TAMATSUKURIChuo Line Sakaisujihommachi Tsurugaoka Osaka Jogakuin Nankai Shin-Imamiya Dobutsuen-mae College

Kansai MainTenshiba Line Tennoji Sta. Nagai Midosuji Line Tin’s Hall JR Yodoko Tennoji Osaka Kyoiku Sakura Stadium Hanwa Line University Teradacho Osaka Municipal Sta. Hydrangea Garden University Hospital Yanmar Abeno Tennoji Subway Midosuji Line Nagai Tennis Courts MIO Stadium Nagai ROCKTOWN Harukas Osaka-Abenobashi Imaike 4F

Haginochaya Abeno NAGAI PARK Yotsubashi Line Q’s Mall Hoop Osaka Museum of Kintetsu Minami-Osaka Line Natural History NagaiJR Kansai Main Line Sakaisuji Line Yanmar Hanazonocho Nagai Sports Ground Field Nagai Language Nagai Botanical Garden Abeno Sta. Lezzet Koboreguchi Sta. School

Imfune CocoMomo&Co.

Nagai

Hankai Tramway

4 Exploring Osaka’s Museums Before you go Before you go…  

COVID-19 Accessibility Travel Passes & Measures to prevent the spread of All the museums featured in this Discounts COVID-19 are in place in museums, booklet have wheelchair access, with A number of travel passes are avail- with a minimum requirement to wear wheelchairs also available to borrow able to help you make the most of a face mask, use the alcohol hand gel at some venues. Please check in ad- your trip to Osaka. The pass that of- provided, and maintain distance from vance for any special provisions. fers the most benefi ts for those who other visitors. Some will also ask to wish to visit the museums featured keep conversation to a minimum. in this booklet is the Osaka Amazing Pass, available to purchase for 1 or 2 days from any manned station on the , as well as a number of tourist information o¨ ces and hotels   in the city. This pass o ers free admission to some 49 venues around Osaka with discounted admission at an addition- al 28 venues as of early 2021. The Museum Holidays Tickets 1-day pass (¥2,800) covers all Osaka Museum schedules are subject to Museum tickets for permanent collec- Metro and City Bus services as well change due to COVID-19, so please tion galleries and special exhibitions as several of the regional train lines check before you go. Museums in are usually payable separately, with including the Nankai airport line, Japan tend to be closed on Mondays, discounts available for high school whereas the 2-day (¥3,600) pass only with a few exceptions (Osaka Muse- and university students. Younger covers Osaka Metro and the City Bus. um of History closes on Tuesdays). children go free. Ticket reservations Please note that this pass cannot be Should closing day fall on a national may be required for certain special used on JR lines. There are no chil- holiday, the museum will remain exhibitions. Please enquire for details. dren’s rates. open and close the following day Japan is a cash-oriented society and it is a For the most up-to-date information, visit the instead. Please note that the national good idea to have some to hand, but credit Osaka Amazing Pass site: holiday calendar has been adapted card is accepted at all museums but for Osaka www.osp.osaka-info. jp/en/ for the Olympics this summer. Mu- Museum of History and Nagai Botanical Gar- Plan your journey at the Osaka Metro website: seums, like many public venues, also den next to Osaka Museum of Natural History. If you understand Japanese, all fi ve museums www.osakametro.co.jp/en/ close for the New Year holidays. also accept payment via the PassMarket app available for iOS and Android.

Discounts oŠ ered with the Osaka Amazing Pass

The Museum of Oriental Osaka City Museum of Osaka Museum Osaka Museum of Osaka Science Museum Ceramics, Osaka Fine Arts of History Natural History Discounted admission Free admission (excludes Free admission (excludes Free admission (excludes Free admission (excludes special exhibitions) special exhibitions) special exhibitions) the Planetarium)

Exploring Osaka’s Museums 5 The Museum of Oriental Ceramics, Osaka

Harnessing the light Be astonished by this island museum’s masterpieces of Asian pottery, displayed with utmost sensitivity to their cultural origins, color and refl ective properties. Above: A special display of works by eminent ceramicist Kuroda Taizo.

saka has frequently been Over time the collection was bol- Osaka Hotel which formerly stood referred to as “The Venice stered by further donations of Persian here. The majority of the Korean and Oof the East, a monicker it ceramics and other works from Chinese collection is on the second shares with a number of other cities around Asia, namely the Rhee Byung- fl oor, while the Japanese ceramics are throughout Asia. Of the abundant Chang Collection of Korean ceramics, in a single large galley on the other islands carved out by its waterways, a source of pride for Koreans living in side of a glass foyer o ering pleasant Nakanoshima is no doubt the fi nest. Japan. In response to feedback from river views. (The Rhee Collection has It is well worth strolling the 10.6-hect- the locals, the museum acquired and its own gallery one fl oor above.) The are strip of garden where you can was gifted a number of Japanese curator, Kobayashi Hitoshi, explained marvel at an array of eye-catching works in the early 90s, which range that “through pottery, the museum 19th-century buildings and tasteful from the seventh-century Nara period hopes to represent the di erenc- later additions. to the 20th century, the most notable es and characteristics of the three Ample time should be allotted for of the latter being works by Mingei cultures. While the collection isn’t the jewel in the crown, The Museum folk movement proponent, Hama- intended to represent a complete of Oriental Ceramics, Osaka. One da Shoji. history of ceramics, you can truly of the best collections of ceramics Of the 5,669 pieces in the museum’s appreciate the artistry.” in the world, the museum opened collection, some 300 are on perma- in 1982, initially as the home of the nent exhibition, organized according Below: Buncheong ware with iron-painted lotus and mandarin famed Ataka Collection including 144 to region, era and technique. These duck design, 15th-16th century. Chinese works from the Eastern Han include two National Treasures and Gifted by Mr. Ataka Teruya. to the Ming dynasties, and 793 Korean thirteen Important Cultural Properties. works from the Goryeo to the Joseon You can also fi nd the work of con- dynasties. The priceless collection temporary artists, in frequent special was narrowly saved from being sold exhibitions. Backstage, the museum is o after the acquisition of the parent active in research on Asian ceramics, company thanks to the intervention often in tandem with other domestic of the government and the trustee and overseas institutions. for the collection, The Sumitomo As I walked into the cuboid building, Group, who set up a special fund for I noted its composition of porcelain the entire collection to be donated to tiles, a kind of tribute to the 1895 Osaka City.

6 Exploring Osaka’s Museums Above: The state-of-the-art dis- play lighting brings out the com- plex hues of the museum’s pieces. Right: The Museum of Oriental The Museum of Oriental Ceramics, Osaka is located in leafy Ceramics, Osaka .    

1-1-26, Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, Osaka Kobayashi went on to explain that As I wandered back through the 530-0005 (East side of the Osaka City this is enhanced by the museum’s galleries, I found delights for the Central Public Hall) thoughtful, multi-award-winning mind as well as the eye, the wisdom  06-6223-0055 display system. Needless to say, as the traditions of the East condensed into  9:30 - 17:00 (last entry: 16:30) surface of ceramics reflects light from ceramic form. Two mandarin ducks  Mondays (if Monday is a national all directions, lighting is incredibly (symbol of fidelity) on a Joseon dy- holiday the museum will close the fol- challenging. The museum technical nasty jar face away from one another lowing day), while exhibitions are being team used a combination of natural as if in a lover’s ti. Most intriguing changed, New Year holidays lighting and LED lights to bring out was the Zen-like riddle on a bottle,  Exit 1 of Yodoyabashi Stn on the sub- way and Keihan lines; Exit 26 of Kitaha- rather than distort the original tones which made me uncertain whether ma station, or Naniwabashi Stn both on of the pieces and ensure minimal a fish-carrying kingfisher is between the Keihan Nakanoshima line glare on the glass cases. They also in- water and cloud, or beneath the  ¥1,400, University and high school stalled an innovative angular skylight water itself. I particularly enjoyed a students: ¥700, Children aged 15 and Goryeo-Dynasty ewer bearing a boy under go free. Admission may vary that allows light to indirectly illumi- by exhibition. nate the display cases. climbing an auspicious baoxianghua  www.moco.or.jp/en/ The Chinese ceramics are displayed vine, a wish for the prosperity of one’s  Insta: @moco_press in bright rooms whose high ceilings descendants. An 8th-century Chinese enhance their vibrant coloring and court lady figurine is one of several create space for their powerful im- pieces that slowly rotate on turnta- pact, while the Korean and Japanese bles—a world first for a museum at collection rooms by contrast have the time—for you to take in their fine low ceilings and dimmer lighting to details. The 150 diminutive ceramic, create a softer impression, with Japa- glass and metal Chinese snu bottles nese pieces also placed closer to floor on permanent display from the Oki level to emulate the viewing condi- Shoishiro Collection of 1,200 pieces tions of a tatami mat room. Tradition are also sure to charm. has it that celadon is best viewed at Ataka Eiichi probably had little in- around 10 am, as the sunlight of a kling that his collection would take on fine autumn day shines through the such good company or find a home shoji screen of a north-facing room. as grand as The Museum of Oriental  Highlight The display cases housing the muse- Ceramics, Osaka. The museum has um’s fine celadon are bathed in just excellent English explanations, on par Above: Chinese teaware like this Southern Song tenmoku glaze tea bowl with silvery with the Japanese. Equally reward- this kind of light, and even on a rainy spots gifted by the Sumitomo Group, has day, one can lean in and marvel at the ing is to simply let the mind wander been highly prized in Japan through the hues that alternate between an ash in amazement at how the simple centuries. It is one of two National Trea- grey and turquoise blue. elements of water, earth, and fire can sures in the museum’s collection. transcend space and time.

Exploring Osaka’s Museums 7 Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts

Pondering Impermanence The low admission and high quality of the collection of Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts, itself a cultural monument with stunning gardens, makes it one of the best-value days out in the city

ithin Osaka, Tennoji is a combine to create a lush oasis that Casal Collection of Japanese lac- treasure trove of histo- enables you to forget you are in a querware among others. (As all of the Wry and culture, from the metropolis of 2.5 million people. artwork has been donated by private sixth-century temple complex of It is only fi tting that a family of such collectors, photography of the exhib- Shitenno-ji, to the early 20th century prestige would have a lavish estate. its is prohibited.) It is small but signif- retro neighborhood of Shinsekai and The land was donated to the city with icant, with a few dozen items from its iconic Tsutenkaku tower, to the the intention that a museum be built the museum’s permanent collection hyper-modern chic of the Abeno Ha- upon it, although the construction rukas tower, Japan’s tallest skyscraper. was hindered for a decade due to the Below: Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts Tennoji’s centerpiece is most cer- Great Depression and several natural features prominent Japanese artists through tainly its Park, the setting for Osaka disasters. The impressive structure, to the modern era, including the Nihonga painter, Uemura Shoen (1875-1949), best City Museum of Fine Arts, built in the today a designated Tangible Cultural known for her portraits of women. 1930s. The museum is on the former Property, eventually opened to the estate of the Sumitomos, a successful public in 1936. Exploring the building, merchant family who started a cop- it is hard to ignore the unusual blend per refi nery in 1615 that has evolved of Western and Japanese design ele- into the Sumitomo Group, one of ments: with luxurious marble, grand Japan’s largest conglomerates. Don’t chandeliers, and a sizable clock over forget time to make time to stroll the the main staircase that conjures up a delightful Keitakuen, a garden also Victorian-era train station. part of the grounds that was designed While Museum of Fine Art’s holdings by master gardener Ogawa Jihei also include work from Italy, Greece, whose work you will stumble upon and Egypt, it is predominantly of East at many a Kyoto park and temple. Asian Art, with pieces procured from This and the neighboring City Zoo, the prestigious Taman Collection and

8 Exploring Osaka’s Museums Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts Above: "Withered Field" pair of screens by Kodama Kibo, 1936.   Right: The Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts building, constructed in the 1930s, is itself a Tangible Cultural Property. 1-82, Chausuyama-cho, Tennoji-ku, Osaka 543-0063 (Within Tennoji Park)

 06-6771-4874

 9:30 - 17:00 (last entry: 16:30) of 8,500 works on display at any the anonymous artist-monk was  Mondays (if Monday a national holiday one time for maximum impact. The simply going about his own personal the museum will close the following museum’s curator, Yumino Takayuki, form of spiritual practice by brushing day), exhibition preparation periods, who is a calligraphy specialist himself, gold calligraphy onto blue parchment, New Year holidays stressed that the creating the right with little idea that people would be  JR Tennoji Stn, Exits 15 and 16 of Osaka atmosphere is key, and in doing so admiring it nearly 1,300 years later. Metro Tennoji Stn, Kintetsu Osaka Abenobashi Stn, and less is more. He said that together Mr. Yumino also goes to great Uemachi Line Tennoji-ekimae Stn with those in charge of the incoming lengths to preserve the museum as  ¥300, University and high school collection, they work hard to enhance a repository of Japanese history, and students: ¥200, Children aged 15 and it with the proper illumination with- under go free. Separate admission fees to keep the locals in touch with their apply for special exhibitions out overwhelming it. “The ancient traditions. The basement galleries are  www.osaka-art-museum.jp/en/ works of Asian art are the most visited dedicated to local and amateur artists,  Insta/Twitter:@ocmfa_since1936 in the museum, and people will spend in eorts to sustain the high quality of a long time with them, sometimes Japanese art into the future. all day with a single piece.” I imag- While not one the Japan’s tradi- ined this was not just “the historical tion Big Three Museums (four if you and cultural depth” of these works as include the recent Kyushu National Mr. Yumino suggested, but how the Museum), the Osaka Museum of Fine careful display and lighting inspires a Art's collection is of exceptionally certain kind of reverence. high quality. There is many a Na- At the time of my visit the exhib- tional Treasure and piece of great it was focussed on Buddhist art, importance here. As such, you get which the museum undoubtedly tremendous value from the unbeliev- takes great pride in. In fact, the clan ably low entrance fee of 300 yen (in founder Sumitomo Masatomo was keeping with the traditional frugal- himself a monk prior to his going ity of Osakans). It calls for multiple  Highlight into business—upon the dissolution visits, in order to enjoy the revolving of his particular sect of Buddhism. displays of the museum’s massive The bronze buddhas here sit with a Above: The museum’s ancient Buddhist collection. Not a bad way to spend an statues can be admired from all angles, tranquil nobility; the balance of form afternoon, combined perhaps with a including this 12th-century wooden figure and emptiness upon the screens meal or drink at one of the handful of a hiten or heavenly being that is often arouse a certain humility. Peering at of restaurants centered around the found accompanying the Buddha. an ancient scroll of the Lotus Sutra grassy Ten-shiba, mere steps from the from 741, it is incredible to think that museum’s front doors.

Exploring Osaka’s Museums 9 Osaka Museum of History

The Palace in the Sky Immerse yourself in Osaka’s glorious past as a grand imperial capital, bustling trading hub and city of leisure, brought to life through large-scale replicas

Above: The view of Osaka Castle from Osaka Museum of History.

iewed from the east, I thought The Osaka Museum of History is the 8th fl oor there is an elaborate that the facade of the Osaka located in close proximity to two of model excavation site inspired by that VMuseum of History looked like Osaka’s most important historical of the Naniwa Palace where you can a book being opened. This is most sites, one of which is the aforemen- decipher "remains" and learn about appropriate as the story of Japanese tioned castle originally built by the the excavation process through work- history is a long one, and Osaka—or, warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Hav- at least what became Osaka—has ing re-established control of Japan been there since the beginning. and brought to a close the nation’s And to get this view, you need to be 150-year-long Warring States Period, Below: The large-scale replica of the Naniwa Palace on the 10th fl oor also features court standing within the grounds of Osaka he deliberately had the structure built nobles dressed in the Chinese-infl uenced Castle. The castle today is a symbol upon the site of the Osaka Hongan-ji garb of the period (see p. 16) of one of the highest apices of the Temple, whose powerful monks history of not only the city but the had proved di¨ cult to supplant. The nation as well. castle has burned down numerous History bu s will relish a slow visit times and su ered bomb damage here, to take in the many thousands during the War, and so what you of objects that bring to life Osaka’s see of it today is much newer. The vibrant past. The building shares a area’s roots, though, extend back well dome-like glass atrium with the head- over a thousand years to the ancient quarters of NHK Osaka Broadcasting Naniwa Palace, whose mysterious Station, where you can purchase a role in Japanese history is still being drink from the co ee shop and watch unravelled by archaeologists. In fact, the current NHK program being aired the team working at the nearby exca- on the towering screen within. vation site are based at the museum itself. You can observe postholes in situ on the basement fl oor, while on

10 Exploring Osaka’s Museums Osaka Museum of History      Above: Osaka Museum of History's 9th floor captures the city’s pre- modern heritage as a thriving mercantile city in recreations like this one of townspeople crossing the Naniwa Bridge. 4-1-32, Otemae, Chuo-ku, Osaka 540-0008 Right: The Osaka Museum of History building.  06-6946-5728

 9:30 - 17:00 (last entry: 16:30)

 Tuesdays (if Tuesday a national holiday the museum will close the following day), New Year holidays sheets and see the actual tools used od, a time when Osaka was Japan’s  Exit 2 or 9 at Osaka Metro Tanimachi (see p.16). The space is so authentic it primary trading center known as “The 4-chome Stn is even ringed by a tall safety fence. Water City.” As on the previous floor,  ¥600 yen, University and high-school The building’s 10th floor is almost we are able to examine life at this students: ¥400 yen, Children aged 15 Above: The view of Osaka Castle entirely dedicated to a partial re- time, through full-scale replicas, scale and under go free. Separate admission from Osaka Museum of History. fees apply for special exhibitions production of the Latter Palace’s models, photographs and video. Most  www.mus-his.city.osaka.jp/eng/ eighth-century Daigokuden Hall and impressive are the wooden bridges this is the best place to begin your that traverse the exhibits above. While  twitter @naniwarekihaku visit. (The “Highlight Course takes most museums worldwide lean heav- about one hour, while the complete ily toward the ruling classes of the course requires much more time to time, here we are exposed to scenes explore.) The replica of the Daigokud- of daily life, as Osaka has always been en Hall is a wonder in vermillion a culture of the people. and black, with models of elegant- The remaining 7th floor of the ly dressed court figures. From the permanent exhibition deals with the museum, you can gaze out toward first fifty years after the dawn of the Osaka Castle, an impressive sight modern period, until about 1930. As from these heights, and one even Osaka was largely destroyed during more so at night as it was at the time the Second World War, this is con- of our visit. (Happily, the museum sidered to be a Golden Age of sorts. is photography-friendly!) The blinds Strolling was a popular pastime, and lower in order to screen an impres- exhibits are constructed in that spirit, sive array of images detailing the as you amble past full-scale repli- culture of Naniwa at the time. Models cas of homes, factories, and even and artifacts document life not only Dotonbori’s Kado Theater. With the  Highlight at the time of the Palace but of the emphasis on entertainment, it is little society that came before, namely the wonder Osaka is known as Japan's Above: Curator at Osaka Museum of History, warehouses and burial mounds of gourmet capital, and that a large Funakoshi Mikio, leads the author through the people who dwelt here upon the number of famous comedians hail Osaka’s early 20th-century entertainment district on the 7th floor. Uemachi Plateau. from here. It is a reminder that Osaka Iwasa Shin-ichi, also a Curator at the muse- Exhibits on the 9th floor bring to is ultimately a city of the people, one um, points out the boats approaching the life the late Middle Ages, extending that reflects their fun-loving nature newly built Shinmachi pleasure quarters in the Edo-period Naniwa-Sonezaki folding screen. to the end of the feudal Edo Peri- and zest for life.

Exploring Osaka’s Museums 11 Osaka Museum of Natural History

Reconnecting with nature, past and present Marvel at this collection including fossils of dinosaurs and large mammals that once roamed the Japanese archipelago

ocated in the enormous which a¨ rm Osaka’s heritage as a grounds of Nagai Park that for- maritime city: The skeletons of three Lmerly served as a venue during massive whales, a fi nback, humpback the 2002 FIFA World Cup, the Osaka and sperm whale respectively, which Museum of Natural History is a hom- tragically washed up on the shores age to Osaka’s natural environment of Osaka Bay. Such beaching events and humankind’s place within it. In- are a once-in-a-decade event, we deed, 1,800,000 specimens document were told, since these whales usually vividly the past and present status of dwell a considerable distance from Osaka’s ecosystem. Key to the muse- Japanese waters. It took a back- um’s philosophy is taking great care breaking seven years to prepare the to contextualize displays and show 19-meter-long fi nback—which would Man’s engagement with Osaka’s nat- these critters in their original environ- have weighed 10 tons while alive— ural environment, perhaps as long as ments, which is hugely important in for display. 20,000 years ago. Exhibits elucidate an era where increased urbanization More impressive fossils await you this relationship that ancient peoples has distanced us all from nature. in the museum foyer, appropriately had with nature based upon recent Photography is welcome, and you are named Naumann Hall, after its cen- archaeological discoveries, complete even encouraged to touch some of terpiece, the prehistoric Naumann’s with geographical maps illustrating the exhibits. Fittingly, the lush Nagai Elephant, whose footprints have been the changes the area underwent Botanical Gardens is just next door, found in this very park. Believed to as a result of human settlement where you could easily spend the rest have been unique to the Japanese and development. of the day. archipelago, its size fell a little short Starting with the ground fl oor, the Shortly after beginning your jour- of that of its contemporary up in the exhibit hall named ‘The Natural World ney through the museum, you will north, the woolly mammoth. Here we Around Us’ delves into the di er- stumble on two of the star attractions are transported to the earliest days of ent types of environments found

12 Exploring Osaka’s Museums Osaka Museum of Natural History Opposite page: Visitors will delight at the museum’s impressive fossils including the skeletal models of Desmostylus, comparing the possible physiologies of this prehistoric mammal.     Above: “The museum takes care to present specimens in the context of their natural habitat" explains Sakuma Daisuke, curator at Osaka Museum of Natural History. 1-23, Nagai Park, Higashi-Sumiyoshi-ku, Right: Osaka Museum of Natural History is located in leafy Nagai Park. Osaka 546-0034

 06-6697-6221 in the region, but also includes a coevolution between species too. The  9:30 - 17:00 (last entry: 16:30) thought-provoking look at invasive exhibited skeletons are deceased an-  Mondays (if Monday a national holiday and endangered species. Among imals from Tennoji Zoo across town the museum will close the following day), New Year holidays the unwelcome additions to Osaka’s and are still lovingly looked after by  Exit 3 of Osaka Metro Nagai Stn, East ecosystem are insects and seeds that the sta. Exit of JR Nagai Stn made easy luggage stowaways, but Finally, there is the museum’s ‘Na-  ¥300 yen, University and high school also maritime life such as shellfish ture Square,’ displaying an array of students: ¥200 yen, Children aged 15 that have attached themselves to the colorful bugs and butterflies against and under go free. Separate admission fees apply for special exhibitions hulls of ships. photographs of their mountain and  www.mus-nh.city.osaka.jp The ‘History of the Earth and Life’ river habitats that would be familiar to hall will undoubtedly be a favor- the Osaka resident. You can find it in  Facebook: facebook.com/ osakamuseumofnaturalhistory/ ite with most visitors, with its fully the Annex together with the museum Twitter: @osakashizenshi reconstructed skeletons of dino- shop and special exhibition room. saurs, prehistoric birds and mammals Osaka Museum of Natural Histo- unearthed all over the world. I found ry's display explanations are not all myself fascinated by the side-by-side available in foreign languages, but display of two skeletons of a prehis- their friendly, English-speaking sta toric, semi-aquatic mammal called are keen to answer your burning Desmostylus. As scientists are still questions. There is also a strong unsure how this creature looked, the outreach here and motivation to reconstructed skeletons are based on further education and conservation two diering theories regarding their outside of the museum itself, with a physiology. One is displayed more host of educational events like nature like a land creature, the other like an hikes, workshops, and botanical amphibious swimmer, with the skel- tours. In addition, they hold up to 100 etons reflecting how these functional meetings and lectures a year. Most dierences would have impacted admirably, the sta is active in eorts  Highlight their muscular structures. to rescue specimens in disaster-hit The three exhibit rooms upstairs, areas. This is perhaps the lesson the Above: The museum has a dazzling collection of exotic insects and butterflies museum demonstrates so clearly: the ‘Evolution of Life,’ ‘Gifts from Nature,’ found across the globe, which not only and ‘The Lives of Living Things,’ interconnectedness of humankind demonstrates the variety of forms they take again illuminate the place of all living and other species, and shared respon- but also the adaptations they have evolved species, including ourselves, in the sibility we have towards our planet. according to their habitats. ecosystem. It maps out our own evolutionary past, with examples of

Exploring Osaka’s Museums 13 Osaka Science Museum

Life’s great and minute mysteries revealed Kids and adults alike will love the vast array of games and activities here that bring magic to the inner workings of our daily lives and the wider universe

he fi rst thing you’ll notice scientists. It sheds light on what the play mode, stopping here and there to on approaching Osaka Sci- Director calls “the real, the actual, the be pulled into wonder. With over 200 Tence Museum is its squashed natural”: the surprising properties and exhibits to explore, one could easily spheroid shape designed to resem- peculiarities of those everyday fabrics, pass half a day here alone. There are ble the elliptical orbiting path of the plants, and naturally derived chem- not many opportunities in our lives to planets (the open-work piece of icals and pharmaceuticals we take feel the cool surface of a meteorite, or architecture with the “bunny ears” for granted every day. After spending even compare the weight of an apple immediately adjacent is the National time here, perhaps you too will start on the moon and planets, but on Museum of Art). It sits on the island of to see familiar phenomena from a dif- the fourth fl oor you can do just that. Nakanoshima, a 3-kilometre, highly ferent perspective and fi nd new value Themed around “The Universe and pedestrianized stretch of Osaka that in them, whether at home, school, or Discovery,” this where most self-guid- has become a destination for leisure the workplace. ed visits begin, and opens with a large and culture, not least for its examples Kids will have a whale of a time on 3D model of the sun with photogenic of early Western architecture, excel- the museum’s second fl oor, which explanations of its workings. lent hotels and high concentration could be described as an educational of museums (see also the Museum playground, where they can enjoy of Oriental Ceramics on p. 6, and the seeing scientifi c experiments in action forthcoming Nakanoshima Museum by pushing the displays' buttons and of Art, opening 2022 on p. 18). River manipulating levers. And what better boat cruises also depart from here. way for kids to learn than through Built to commemorate the 100th hands-on exhibits? This is exactly the anniversary of Osaka City, Osaka approach of Osaka Science Muse- Right: An example of an old Japanese Science Museum was envisioned to um: to bring science to life through gold coin known as be a source of inspiration in particular interactive experiences. We adults too keicho koban, which for the next generation of budding found ourselves repeatedly entering was made in the Edo period.

14 Exploring Osaka’s Museums Osaka Science Museum

Above: The many hands-on exhibits that make Osaka Science     Museum an educational playground for children and adults alike.

Right: The museum’s futuristic façade. 4-2-1, Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, Osaka 530-0005  06-6444-5656

 9:30 - 17:00 (last entry: 16:30) The museum is also a celebration of dig a bit deeper can rely on the En-  Mondays (if Monday a national holiday Japan’s own scientifi c achievements glish-language museum guide app. the museum will close the following day), exhibition preparation periods, and innovations during the twentieth Osaka Science Museum is also New Year holidays. Check for irregular century: an example of which you home to Japan’s fi rst planetarium— closures will encounter as soon as you enter and having been remodeled in 2019,  Exit 3 of Osaka Metro Higobashi Stn, through the main doors. The tower- it is now also one of the largest in Exit 2 of Keihan Nakanoshima Line Watanabebashi Stn ing fi gure of the Gakutensoku (mean- the world. It is something our guide ing “to learn from the laws of nature”)  ¥400, University and high school for the afternoon, General A airs students: ¥300, Children aged 15 and built in 1928 is considered Asia’s fi rst Planning Section Manager, Yoshioka under go free. Separate admission fees robot. Though now controlled by Katsuki, explains to us as the venue’s apply for the Planetarium. contemporary technology, its car- biggest draw and source of pride to  www.sci-museum.jp toonish face and limbs were originally the museum’s sta . Presentations  Twitter: @osaka_kagakukan, manipulated using compressed air in change hourly, and from the comfy @gakugei_osm what was an extraordinary feat for the reclining seats you can wonder at time. The facility where Dr. Yukawa the heavens stretched across the Hideki did ground-breaking research 26.5-meter dome above. Sta mem- in mesons (a type of subatomic parti- bers also give lectures here, on topics cle which infl uences the relationship ranging from complicated astronom- between protons and electrons), that ical phenomenon, to what planets won him the Nobel Prize in Phys- are currently on view in the night ics in 1949, is also here. One of my skies for keen urban stargazers. I was favorite displays, of old Japanese daily taken with the Carl Zeiss II projector, appliances and electronics, brought Japan’s fi rst, that stands just outside a sense of nostalgia and occasionally the planetarium hall. puzzlement—particularly the toaster If all of this stimulation of the fi ve and washing machine. I could imag- senses has built up your appetite, ine playing a guessing game with head to the museum café for a re-  Highlight my young daughter as to what some freshing beverage and light meal, and of the more bizarre looking items don’t forget to swing by the shop for Above: The shows at Osaka Science Muse- were. Overall the exhibit information some the museum’s unique statio- um’s state-of-the-art planetarium, one of is English friendly, with the smaller the largest in the world, are not currently nery and books before you leave. details in Japanese only. No matter, as available in English but are nonetheless there is a wealth to see and do here, spectacular, with comfortable seating. Screenings are 45 minutes long. and, what’s more, those who want to

Exploring Osaka’s Museums 15 Did you know?

Life after death

As an institution dedicated to furthering scientifi c research, Osaka Museum of Natural History cooperates with Tennoji Zoo on the highly sensitive work of preserving and archiving the remains of their beloved animals from around the world for future posterity. Few visitors perhaps understand, Naniwa Palace: though, just how challenging a task this can be. In 2003, the Curator of Zool- ogy along with two assistants at the museum decided to start the "Naniwa Remnants of a Forgotten Capital Honehone Dan," ("hone" meaning "bone"), a group that invites the wider community to take part in the conservation of animal specimens. Out of the Japan’s capital has moved a num- once again rise to prominence museum’s training rooms, sta give hands-on instruction on how to dissect ber of times over the centuries, when the Emperor Shomu and taxidermize animal carcasses, and how to treat di erent tissues like skin most famously to Nara, Kyoto and (701-756) ordered for it to be and bone. While they focus mostly on birds and small mammals, occasion- Tokyo. But did you know Osaka is rebuilt and subsequently moved ally a porpoise or even a gira e will show up! Every fi nished specimen is believed to have served as capital his capital there in 744. In fact, kept at the museum. Their activities have been enormously successful and not once, but twice? You would Emperor Shomu decided to move more recently, they have begun providing opportunities for children to also be forgiven if you answered “no,” his capital from Nara (formerly participate, fostering a new generation of biologists. You can fi nd special since its time as capital was brief known as Heijo-kyo) no less than animal bone-themed stationery inspired by the group’s activities at the and the mysteries as to Naniwa’s three times. The reasons are not museum shop. (as Osaka was formerly called) well understood, though it is role in Japan’s ancient history are thought that these decisions were still being unravelled to this day. triggered by events perceived to be auspicious (or indeed, inaus- Be an Archaeologist for the Day! It was the Emperor Kotoku (596- picious, such as natural disasters 654) who established his grand and epidemics). We know that For Okamura Katsuyuki, archaeology curator at the Naniwa Palace here and reigned the Emperor had set o on a Administrative Agency for Osaka City Museums, for nine years until his death. He long pilgrimage and a rebellion the crown jewel of Osaka Museum of History is the recognized the value of Osaka’s was brewing in the west, which eighth-fl oor Naniwa Archaeological Resource Centre, position as a port during a time would be successfully crushed by made to resemble as closely as possible some of the when Japan enjoyed friendly his own forces. Naniwa served as excavation sites in Osaka including the Naniwa Palace diplomatic relations with Tang capital for a mere year, but rather ruins. The impressive space invites children and adults China, the gateway to the rest of than falling into obscurity, arche- alike to handle real tools and examine recreated the Asian continent, and which ological excavations carried out architectural features such as wells and ditches, and inspired the Taika Reforms (645) since the 1950s have confi rmed objects like ceramics that archaeologists have discov- to establish centralized imperial that it actually continued to ered at di erent depths in and around the actual site. rule. One of Japan’s oldest written prosper, with extensive ruins and Quiz worksheets (also available in English) lead you chronicles, the Nihon Shoki, pottery shards discovered in the through the process as you determine what these records the event of the palace Palace’s environs. burning down in 686, but it would items may have been for and how old they might be. There may be no experience quite like it to be had in Japan, so don’t miss it!

Keitakuen Garden

The majestic Keitakuen Garden by Ogawa Jihei VII (1860-1933), that borders Osaka City Museum also known as Ueji, one of Ja- of Fine Arts, part of the former pan’s most celebrated gardeners. Sumitomo family estate, is a Most of Ueji’s masterpieces are to must-see if you are in the Tennoji be found in neighboring Kyoto, at area. This fi ne example of a for- Heian Jingu Shrine and Murin’an ested strolling garden, featuring among others. an elegant teahouse and pavilion, Open: 9:30am-5pm as well as gentle waterfalls, Admission ¥150 (free for Osaka quaint bridges and stepping Amazing Pass holders) stones, is a joy to visit the year round. It was designed in 1909 in

16 Exploring Osaka’s Museums Did you know?

Japan: The Tech Hub of the World

A country with a history as long as Ja- shaped domestic life over the latter half pan’s inevitably has a diverse tradition of the 20th century. By the late 1950s, of manufacturing. Indigenous materials every household desired the new three such as ceramics, wood, and bamboo sacred treasures of a washing machine, were used widely, continuing into TV, and fridge. Within 30 years, Japan the present day as traditional arts and led the world in electronics. crafts. Japanese swords are world-re- nowned, and in the modern era this Osaka Science Museum has a delightful long history of smithing branched out display of these electronic devices, into building ships and armaments. most of which will prove nostalgic to local visitors, while those from As the post-WWII constitution banned overseas can find fun in guessing at the waging of war, major industry shift- what some of these bizarre looking ed toward producing automobiles and contraptions actually do. electronics. It was the latter that truly

The Right SnuŠ

The precise roots of snu are di¨cult to for the Qing Dynasty upper class, eventual- identify, but like most forms of tobacco, it ly spreading to the rest of the country. The began in the Western Hemisphere. People bottles made it a tactile experience as well indigenous to the area ground the leaf into as olfactory. While the custom of taking a fine powder, which often took on the snu eventually died out, bottles are still scent of the wood used as a mortar and being produced, and the original historic pestle. The snu was then stored in airtight bottles prove popular with museums and containers, usually made from bone. collectors.

Tobacco was introduced to China by the Japan too took on the custom, and the Portuguese by the end of the 16th century. country’s finest display of snu bottles Within 100 years snu and snu bottles can be found at the Museum of Oriental were an important part of social etiquette Ceramics, Osaka.

Osaka’s Tennoji: A Must-Visit

For Shino Masahiro, Director at here too. Keitakuen Garden is a Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts, great place to experience some there are few better ways to spend of the area’s rich history and the the day than in the city’s lively changing of the seasons. The Tennoji area. cutting-edge, 300-meter-tall Abeno Harukas building, which houses “If you are coming to Osaka, I a contemporary art museum and wholeheartedly recommend a visit observation deck, as well as Osaka to Tennoji, the home Osaka City Tennoji Zoo, and the surrounds of Museum of Fine Arts. From Kansai Tennoji Park itself have long been International Airport, a train whisks popular with local families. you here in under an hour. With its charming mix of urban and For overseas visitors, there is no green spaces, and opportunities to better place than our museum to see fabulous works of art, Tennoji find fine examples of Japanese art has it all!” at the level of national treasures. But there is much to see around

Exploring Osaka’s Museums 17 Left: "The Nakanoshima Museum of Art, Osaka invited architectur- al studios worldwide to submit designs for its new site. The deep black facade of Katsuhiko Endo’s (Endo Architect and Associ- ates) winning entry has a highly distinctive look. Image courtesy of Osaka City. Architecture by Katsuhiko Endo (Endo Architect and Associates).

The Island of Art Nakanoshima Museum of Art, Osaka, opening in early 2022, is set to be the latest addition to the city’s fl oating museum hub

oining the likes of the Museum Saeki (1898-1928), who was active in Gutai group of artists, in particular by of Oriental Ceramics, Osaka Sci- Paris in the 20s and heavily infl uenced its fi gurehead, Yoshihara Jiro (1905- Jence Museum and the National by the Fauve painters, represent the 1972). The museum also took the time Museum of Art, Osaka as part of Na- largest extant collection of his work in to deliberate its architectural design, kanoshima’s thriving cultural ecosys- Japan, given his tragic early death at soliciting entries from top studios from tem in 2022 is the eagerly anticipated the age of 30. The fi nal missing piece around the world, tasked with creating Nakanoshima Museum of Art, Osaka. of the jigsaw was the vacated site of an inclusive space “where anyone, both With an eclectic collection comprising ’s Medical School, and people with and without interest in art painting, prints, sculpture and design it was decided that this location would museums, can come and fi nd a place pieces, with not only the most promi- make the perfect home for the city’s to be themselves.” The winning design nent artistic movements from the late new and distinguished collection. by Katsuhiko Endo (Endo Architect and 19th century onwards represented, but Many would agree there is oppor- Associates) is a contemporary, fi ve-sto- also the keen exchange of eastern and tunity to be found in even the most rey building with a light-fi lled atrium western cultures that took place during adverse circumstances, and that Na- and spacious galleries on the fourth that time. kanoshima Museum of Art’s progress and fi fth fl oors. Once fi nished, it will Nakanoshima Museum of Art is all has been hampered numerous times, be hard to miss its highly unusual and the more anticipated having been over namely by the successive fi nancial eye-catching deep black façade. three decades in the making. Its story crises, has not been seen as a hin- You may not have needed another began in 1989, during Osaka’s cente- drance in itself. After all, it has enabled reason to visit Nakanoshima, Osaka’s nary celebrations, with the generous the museum’s curators to further build fl oating center of culture, but one thing donation of the Yamamoto Hatsujiro and refi ne its collection. Following its is for sure: Nakanoshima Museum collection. The museum is perhaps closure in 2010, the Suntory Museum of Art will be an unmissable element most proud, however, of the work of entrusted some 18,000 art posters to of your adventure-fi lled Osaka trav- pioneering Japanese artists who took the museum. It has also amassed im- el itinerary!

their hand to Western style painting pressive holdings of some of the most The o• cial opening date of the Nakanoshima (called Yoga) during the country’s pe- innovative examples of product design Museum of Art, Osaka is due to be announced riod of rapid modernization, including from the last century, particularly of at the time of writing.Updates will be avail- Kishida Ryusei, Fujishima Takeshi and furniture and dining wares; and over able in Japanese only until the English site his student, Saeki Yuzo. The pieces by 800 pieces from the ground-breaking is launched.

18 Exploring Osaka’s Museums About the Administrative Agency for Osaka City Museums Creating a Vibrant Future for Osaka’s Museums

n 2019 fi ve of Osaka’s world class museums came together to form an independent agency that is the fi rst Iof its kind in Japan and opens the door to new possibil- ities for inter-museum collaboration in the country.

Our goals are:

Sharing Osaka’s lessons with the world

We take the Osaka brand beyond Osaka. Our museums uncover the wonders of Osaka’s rich nature and history, as well as its artistic, scientifi c and cultural traditions through a variety of activities and thoughtful campaigns.

Contributing to the vibrancy of Osaka

We use our deep knowledge of Osaka to support its devel- opment. By reaching out to a wide audience and partnering with both local organizations as well as institutions around the country, our museums contribute to Osaka’s vibrant in- stitutional ecosystem and the revitalization of their respec- tive areas.

Creating a centre of learning

We seek to create an unforgettable visitor experience and opportunities for lifelong learning. Our museums endeavor to be an educational hub and center of activity that em- braces the curiosity of visitors, fosters creativity and recepti- bility to new ideas, and is open to all.

Contact

The Administrative Agency for Osaka City Museums C/O Osaka Museum of History 4 Chome-1-32 Otemae, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 540-0008 TEL/FAX: 06-6940-4330/06-6940-0551 https://ocm.osaka/

Exploring Osaka’s Museums 19 Exploring Osaka’s Museums Discover arts, culture, history and innovation in Japan’s most enigmatic city

『令和2年度 文化庁 地域と共働した博物館創造活動支援事業』 Supported by the Agency for Cultural A airs, Government of Japan in fi scal year 2020