PEAK AREA Inspecting the repaired Ringing Roger. Photo:Austin Knott. NEWSLETTER

January 2019 [email protected]

Rocking Chair yet he’s still firmly rooted in the UK, having Rob Greenwood walked extensively throughout the British Isles. Looking further ahead, the RSPB’s Raptor Happy NewYear! Persecution Team will attend our March It only seems like five meeting, and Wildlife Trust’s Tim minutes since the last meeting, Birch at our June meeting (TBC);Tim will be but here we are just a few weeks talking about the trust’s ambitious rewilding away from the first Peak Area plans throughout the Peak. In September meeting of 2019. we’ve managed to persuade the man, myth We’ve got an exciting programme of and legend Stu Bradbury to do a talk (quite a speakers lined up this year, kicking off with feat, as he’s got to drive all the way from Carey Davies, the BMC’s HillWalking Cornwall to get here!). Stu’s exploits along Development Officer, who’s going to talk about the south-west coast are the thing of legend – the influence of writing on his career in the check out his ‘Hostile Terrain’ article on outdoors. Carey is a frequent contributor to UKClimbing and you’ll see what I mean. The Guardian’s Country Diary and a former So, you can’t accuse us of having a dull year assistant editor atTGO Magazine. His lined up (and I haven’t even mentioned adventures have taken him across the world, November’s quiz)! See you there.

Next meeting: Wednesday 23 January, 7.30 p.m. The Maynard, Grindleford, S32 2HE Stanage Pllantatiion.. Photo::John Coefiielld..

Updates on key issues and projects: Access News • Planning permission has been sought Louise Hawson by Sheffield City Council and Ride Sheffield for a new mountain bike track in the Stanage Redmires plantation.The BMC responded Andrew McCloy, new chair of the Peak to the consultation supporting the proposal, District National Park Authority, attended as long as potential conflicts between the last meeting of the Stanage Forum mountain bikers and walkers on Long Steering Group, and made clear his Causeway are mitigated through design, commitment to the forum and the estate. signage and information on responsible use. I’m sure we’ll continue to have ‘robust • Proposals to make improvements to the discussions’ on key issues with the national parking at High Neb, which were discussed at park, but in Andrew we have a chair who the last meeting, may run into issues with understands and values the role of the BMC planning.We will keep working on this to get as a stakeholder and partner. a better solution. It’s particularly important We’re still unclear on the level of staffing given plans to promote the Long Causeway as and resources for the estate this year, but route for those with mobility issues to access we’ve made strong representation that the the top of Stanage. estate ranger post – ably filled by Mark • Ring ouzels won’t start arriving Anderson – must continue as a full-time until late March, but we’ll start to recruit role. We’re working with the estate team volunteers for this year’s monitoring project on a management plan to support this. on Stanage, Burbage and the Eastern Moors in the next couple of months. Keep an eye out for information on the BMC’s website and twitter feed.

2 Peak Area Newsletter January 2019 We’ll be promoting other volunteering Eastern Moors and Burbage opportunities up on the estate throughout Henry Folkard 2019. If you’re a member of a club (climbing or otherwise!) that might want to get There isn’t much to report from the involved, then let one of the access team Eastern Moors or Burbage since the last know and we’ll put you in touch with Mark. meeting, though it is anticipated a number • Finally, we’re keeping an eye on the of management issues will crop up a bit situation with parking fees and enforcement later in 2019. at Hollin Bank (Plantation). Check the A couple of years ago there was a lot BMC's Regional Access Database (RAD) of discussion about activity on National for the latest information. Trust land that could be deemed to be commercial activity – like climbing Peak District Local Access Forum instruction for which clients paid an The LAF advises the national park authority instructor. Commercial activity is excluded on access and rights of way issues, from the from open access arrangements under perspective of key stakeholders and user CROW. This was not a Peak thing groups. A couple of key issues of interest exclusively, but common to all such activity from the last meeting: on all National Trust property – and was The Glover Review of Protected Areas a much bigger issue at places such as is consulting on whether the protections Purbeck than it was here. for national parks and Areas of Outstanding The matter was never completely Natural Beauty are still fit for purpose, what resolved then, and it has now re-emerged: might be done better and what changes will the question as it came to me was whether help. The meeting discussed the importance or not a permit was required if instructing of responsible behaviour by users and at Lawrencefield, but this was in fact guidance on good practice. The BMC has essentially the same item. Before Christmas a history of providing positive guidance to the Trust’s countryside manager readily its members (for example on wild camping), agreed to meet with the local AMI co- and it seems this role is likely to become ordinator and myself to see what practical more important in the future. The review arrangements we could propose for the will report in 2019. Peak – and Rob Dyer from BMC head A workshop in January will look at how office will join us too. the national park can better manage the Both the countryside manager and impacts of events – from the Chatsworth I think it should be perfectly possible to sort Show to local fell races – on the landscape, something out which is of benefit to all infrastructure and residents of the park. parties without any imposition of financial Although the BMC won’t be directly or bureaucratic penalties for either. represented, the LAF representative will Hopefully there will be something to report share our views about charging and licensing back at the next area meeting. schemes, and the benefits of well-managed There should also be something to events for the economy, people and the report on a proposed Winnats event landscape.We’ll provide an update at the at the end of April, but the meeting at which next area meeting. details will be agreed is a bit later in January, after this newsletter’s deadline – watch out for details on the BMC website.

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 3 Bellow .. Photo::Roger Fanner..

Hill Walking News London and SE Area); protecting and Peter Judd and Austin Knott celebrating the upland landscapes; how to deal with incidents and hazards in the hills; The BMC’s first Hill Walking and navigation in the hills: hints and tips. Symposium One of the highlights of the event was The Hill Walking Symposium took place a very lively debate that took place on here on our own patch at Losehill Hall, Saturday afternoon delving into both access Castleton on the last weekend of improvements for walkers and the legalities November. Over 50 people attended, around wild camping, clearly both issues of including a good number from our own major concern to adventurous hill walkers. area, as might be expected, but we were The key points to take away from this also pleased to have representation from included just how fortunate we are to every other BMC Area too.We even had already have such a good public rights of our own homegrown president, Lynn way network (despite local government Robinson, on hand to welcome everyone. underfunding meaning maintenance, signage This event was run as an experiment, and repair of same are increasingly being having a real mix of activities on offer over neglected), and the excellent additional the weekend, to see what might grab open access gains achieved via the 18-year- people’s imagination. Some excellent short old Countryside and Rights of Way Act. workshops were delivered on Saturday However, BMC Access and Conservation with a diverse range of topics, including: Officer for Policy, Cath Flitcroft, explained organising clean-ups and path repairs; how that an interesting opportunity presents to lead a successful BMC hill walk (delivered itself presently as the government rewrites jointly by our own Peter Judd and fellow hill legislation around both agriculture and the walking area rep Chris Stone from the environment in preparation for leaving the

4 Peak Area Newsletter January 2019 European Union. Such work will likely rivers being able to stay within their banks. radically change how subsidies are targeted They already have good evidence that the and there are signs the government just present gully blocking and rewetting of the might choose to incentivise environmental moors has already led to a noticeable improvement and along with this also slow-down of rainwater runoff. incentivise improved public access. While Sunday ended with a range of different we may not have the same freedoms of walks on offer. Chris Dean took a group access that are enjoyed in Scotland, our to look at MFTFP’s work up on Bleaklow, situations are different and while pushing a navigation skills session was delivered on for a Scotland-like freedom to legally wild , Peter Judd took walkers on camp might at first seem attractive, there a tour of limestone and gritstone geology may (given the present tolerance of discrete, during a walk around the Castleton end of low-impact, wild camping above the last wall the HopeValley, and Austin Knott (along line by most landowners and managers in with Carey Davies) took walkers to see our mountainous areas) be more to lose the past and future work of Mend Our by agitating for a legalising of our current Mountains by visiting the completed practice than there is to gain.This is because Ringing Roger project and also the site it would draw attention to what currently of the proposed work on Great Ridge. happens in a way that could just as easily This pilot event seems to have gone lead to a strong lobby building to not only down very well with participants and good oppose changes to the advantage of wild feedback has been received since. I think campers but might also lead to a breakdown we can be confident that a further such of the current tolerance already mentioned. national event is well worth considering Sunday morning began with a very and thoughts are already turning to doing powerful, well-argued and evidenced so, maybe for 2020. presentation discussing the moorland restoration work of the Moors for the The next area hill walk Future Partnership and its many benefits, A date for your diary:Austin and Peter given by their manager, Chris Dean. have been asked by the BMC office to Amongst many interesting points here are arrange a walk to coincide with the BMC’s just two. Our Peak District upland sphagnum 2019 AGM which will take place in moss peat bogs are pretty much at the on the weekend of the 30th and 31st of southern extreme of where such a bog is March. The AGM itself will, we’re told, be on capable of being self-sustaining. Should Sunday, and the request for a walk is for the global warming lead to many of the climate Saturday, starting and finishing in Buxton. changes that have been predicted, then Details will be announced via the Peak Area we could lose them from the Peak District Facebook page and other channels nearer altogether. He also explained that while the the time. flooding suffered by places like a few years ago was distressing, our streams and river systems can actually cope with quite high levels of flooding already, it only takes a relatively small improvement in water retention up on the moors to move from such rivers overflowing to the same

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 5 Raven Tor.. Photo::John Coefiielld..

Climbing News & Gossip start, Font 8b+, in the Peak’s answer Dave Parry toYosemite, the BurbageValley. This comparatively elderly offering from Ben Here we are in the year of our Lord Moon is still one of the hardest problems twenty nineteen; the distant future, in the Peak, certainly on grit, making it utopian society, monorails, food in pill a coveted tick for anyone with the requisite form.And it is with that rather jarring finger strength and skin to throw at it. opening stanza that I welcome you, Using thoughts of the comparatively the reader, to the opening paragraph elderly to neatly segue into the coming of the first news report of the year. paragraph, I happily report that the I find myself writing this at a time aforementioned quinquagenarian which seems only minutes after renaissance-man Ben Moon continues I signed off the last one, most of the to buck the trend of graceful age-related intervening days featuring the now- decline by making an ascent of Evolution customary crap Christmas weather, (F8c+) at Raven Tor.At 52, this is not only so you’ll excuse me for padding out remarkable simply because of age, but this first bit with excessive verbosity even more so because Ben failed to tick in lieu of actual content. Still, the last this route back in his prime in the 1990s. of the mince pie-flavoured food pills If ten years ago you’d have suggested Ben has been successfully ingested so we would do this route, and Rainshadow, and must look forwards. be close to doing Northern Lights at Kilnsey, Of course, in any utopian future world it would have seemed a ridiculous meritocracy rules, so let’s have the big suggestion. OK, you’ve got to remember numbers up first.Top of the numerical stack that Ben was the best in the world, but is Orrin Coley, who’s repeatedVoyager low still his return to top form in recent years

6 Peak Area Newsletter January 2019 continues to inspire. Especially considering good one for those spring after-work he’s no stranger to injury and almost gave sessions when Baslow really comes into up climbing not that long ago.Also, its own as a great evening crag. personally speaking I can’t imagine being in A rediscovered Jamie Lilleman prow my fifties at Raven Tor in winter and being problem Honalee (Font 7b) at Chatsworth able to physically put enough clothes on Edge seems to have had some attention of to stay warm, let alone climb a hard route. late, with a pre-emptive retroclaim coming Basically folks, there’s no excuses now. in from Ben Bransby. Boasting some As Sid Waddell might say, this is the apparently quality fridge-hugging, Ned has greatest comeback since Lazarus. also chimed in with a right-side-only version Also at Raven Tor, Frances Bensley at around Font 8a with a highball finish. from Coventry has repeated modest Steve Might be enough here to attract a few folk McClure’s Fat Lip, which for those back to Chatsworth now? Ned also unaccustomed to the steep delights of the repeated Andy Banks’ The Militant (Font 7c+) Raven Tor cave is a powerful Font 8b heel- from years back that presumably hooking extravaganza. Frances becomes can’t have seen many ascents. only the third British female to climb Font Finally from Ned, the long-awaited 8b, and as far as I know the first one to do finish to the one-move-sort-of-not-really-a- so on British soil, which surely has to be problem Long’s Lock at Burbage West. big news. After all, we can all hop on a flight This one weighs in at Font 7b+ and is pretty to sunnier climes for holiday grades, but it’s high with a not great landing. Named Dread bringing home the bacon at a damp and Lock, slopey finish using the blunt arête. drizzly Raven Tor that is the true test. Personally I’m gonna stroke my big long Sometimes people moan, wrongly, that beard and from the comfort of my armchair standards haven’t come on much since the declare that 7b+ seems perhaps a touch 1990s, blah blah blah, but the top end cautious for that one, but time will tell. of British women’s climbing has really Incidentally, if you’ve not heard it surpassed all expectations, in my Grimer did a podcast with Ned recently (a personal view. Good effort, Frances. ‘wadcast’ surely) which is well worth a On to the grit now and let’s check in listen. Check it out if you get the chance. with the gritstone offerings of fingerboard Sound of the summer. supremo and mantelphile Ned Feehally. True to form Ned reports that he’s done Get in touch a couple of mantels through Andy Harris’ Send your Peak area news, gossip or article traverse The DTs at Stanage. Both at present ideas to me at: [email protected] unnamed, one on the left, one on the right through a vague scoop, both in the low Font 7s. Nice to have a couple more problems to tempt people away from the Plantation and along to this block. In complete contrast Ned has done a line to the left of Legend of the Potato King at Baslow, starting in the same place but veering left above a better landing to an easier finish. Around Font 7c, might be a

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 7 An olld bollt removed from Water-cum-Jolllly.. Photo::::Mark Rankiine..

Peak Bolt Fund Update handed over directly to Seb Grieve who has James Jacobs a skill for emptying climbers’ traditionally deep pockets. The Peak Bolt Fund (PBF) has been Donations over the last two years have hard at work in 2018 raising funds, just about covered our costs. In 2018 we buying gear and doing the dirty work purchased close to £1,000 worth of bolts, of re-equipping sport climbs around most of which have been placed. A similar- the Peak. sized order is planned for 2019. Glue, drill Donations have continued to be good bits and replacing worn-out tools also this year. My hope is that climbers will see contribute towards our costs.We plan new bolts replacing old on Peak routes, and to purchase a second drill this year which through our publicity (Facebook, blog, this should address logistical problems with article, UKClimbing article, word of mouth, sharing one drill between a group of etc.) realise that this is the work of the PBF keen bolters. and will be moved to donate. Donations Climbers should see a yearly donation exceeded £1,000 in 2018, with the bulk to the fund as a positive way to give back coming through PayPal. However, we also to the community and ensure we all have placed collection buckets in climbing walls well-bolted routes to climb. If you climb on around the Peak that brought in a significant Peak sport, then you will certainly have amount of money over the summer. In the benefited from the activities of the PBF. spirit of competition here are the scores … If we can continue the current level Climbing Works: £9.38; Foundry: £39.36; of donations then we can continue to Redpoint Birmingham: £65.32;Awesome sustain the current level of rebolting. Walls Sheffield: £170.39! Take what you will A big thanks to anyone who has donated from these figures. Cash has also been in 2018.

8 Peak Area Newsletter January 2019 The PBF is always looking for new volunteers; we support volunteers as best we can but ultimately we’re a small volunteer group and this is a fairly thankless task that you’ll be doing on your own! A good example from 2018:Vince Smedley contacted the PBF about some corroded single-bolt lower-offs in Intake Quarry.The PBF providedVince with the kit he needed, Dan Middleton of the BMC provided some training andVince was able to sort out four routes on the Take Away Wall area. Contact us via email or Facebook if you’d like to get involved (details below). Another way to help out is to report Choppiing olld bollts at Rubiicon.. bolts that might need replacing, with as Photo::Mark Rankiine.. much detail (and ideally a photo) as possible. We picked up on a UKClimbing logbook comment about cracked rock around a Reports of cracked rock around the top bolt on the route Rubicon.The suspect bolt on Rubicon led to two new bolts bolt was chopped and has been replaced replacing that one. The neighbouring route with two new bolts above and below the Totally Awesome sports new bolts andThe location of the old bolt. Sissy has a new lower-off. Meanwhile further An article about bolting in the Peak down Water-cum-Jolly, Coming Up For Air at wouldn’t be complete without mentioning Moat Buttress has new bolts, and two Gary Gibson.As ever Gary makes the PBF routes at the Water-cum-Jolly Cornice have work pale into insignificance.You can find out been rebolted:The Disillusioned Glue Machine about his extensive bolting and crag cleaning and Goldcrest. at his website, and you can also donate to his And going slightly further afield the fund: www.sportsclimbs.co.uk popular routes of The BigTake Out, Blue Moon Now on to the routes that have received Night, Chop Suicide and Les Chinoise on Take the PBF treatment in 2018.An extra-dry Away Wall at Intake Quarry now all have summer has meant the cleaning, rebolting and double-bolt lower-offs. climbing of some of the usually wet routes on the far left side of the Chee Dale Cornice. For more information, or to donate, please These include: Masculine PowerTrip, Malcolm X, get in touch: Last Eggs, Monday Club,Wright On,Trampled Email: [email protected] Underfoot.Work on The Embankment Facebook: facebook.com/thepeakboltfund continues with a few more routes now Blog: thepeakboltfund.blogspot.com sporting PBF bolts. Done this year: StoneThe Loach, Secret Gudgeon Society, Arachonothera and Prawnography. The Nook has been popular again due to the dry weather, and if you like short routes why not check out the rebolted Life in the Old LogYet.

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 9 NationalTrust Update: January 2019 Luke Barley

Everything’s going smoothly … disappeared in suspicious circumstances once perhaps a little too smoothly! After they moved away to private land elsewhere last winter’s work programme was after fledging. Jon Stewart, the National seriously disrupted by snow and we Trust’s General Manager for the Peak spent the summer on high fire alert District, said:‘For all those who care about (if not actively fighting fires), the last our wildlife and our national parks this is couple of months and this grey, mild really very sad and extremely disappointing weather have seen the NationalTrust news.We are trying to work with grouse ranger teams making good progress shooting, and Octavia and Arthur were born on our major conservation projects. on a moor managed for grouse, but the It can’t last … satellite tagging is showing that as things In the Dark Peak the MoorLIFE 2020 stand long-term success will only come if all work continues with lots more areas of those with influence work together across heather to cut and sphagnum to plant, all the uplands. If this isn’t possible and soon, with the aim of varying the moorland habitat everyone is going to have to face some very – and consequently improving it for wildlife, difficult decisions.’ carbon sequestration and water management. Longshaw rangers have taken the next Those with an interest in birding or steps in restoring the wood pasture by conservation will know that hen harriers planting trees spaced well apart so that successfully nested on National Trust land last they’ll grow into giant, spreading, landscape summer – unfortunately two of the chicks specimens.Wood pasture is one of the

10 Peak Area Newsletter January 2019 National Trust White Peak rangers planting trees. Photos: National Trust.

richest habitat types with trees and County Council to repair the riverbank by grassland co-existing, along with all the the stepping stones, which had wildlife that depends on both.The rangers washed out and caused a hazard when the have also started work on a tree nursery to river was high. It should now be possible to grow our own trees from local seed – this safely get off the stones whenever they’re has been funded by our woodland appeal, so not flooded! a big thanks to everyone who’s donated, Finally, rangers and colleagues have been including the running clubs and races that busy with the day-to-day upkeep of the two chose the appeal as their beneficiary. If your Peak District farms the National Trust club would like to raise money for the Peak bought last spring. Greensides (near Buxton) District appeal, please get in touch! and High Fields (near Calver) are very rich The White Peak rangers have also been in wildlife due to their previous management using appeal money wisely to plant hundreds and when they came up for sale the Trust of trees in the ‘coupes’ or open spaces stepped in to ensure this continues forever. created by our management work in the We’re currently planning for the future of ravine woodlands. Native species like lime, both farms, where, as ever, nature field maple, oak and alder will replace ash conservation and appropriate public access (the main species found in these woods) as will be at the heart of what we do.We hope it starts to decline due to ash dieback to report on our plans and share some of disease.The planting made a pleasant change the special wildlife found at these places in from felling – which takes up a huge amount the near future. of our time in winter – and is very rewarding in completing the cycle of the For more information about the National woodland management project.We also Trust's work in the Peak District, please email: worked in partnership with Derbyshire [email protected]

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak 11 Peak Area Meetings

2019

23 January, 7.30 p.m. 11 September, 7.30 p.m. The Maynard, Grindleford The Maynard, Grindleford

20 March, 7.30 p.m. 27 November, 7.30 p.m. The Maynard, Grindleford The Maynard, Grindleford

12 June, 7.30 p.m. The Maynard, Grindleford

Forthcoming Events BMC Peak Area Contacts http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak

Sheffield Adventure Film Festival Peak Area Chair: Rob Greenwood. 22-24 March, Showroom Cinema, [email protected] Sheffield ShAFF is back, and this year it's presented by Secretary: Becky Hammond. the BMC. Loads on, as usual, including the [email protected] Women in Adventure film competition and the BMC's 75th birthday bash. BMC Peak Area Reps (your voice on the BMC members get 15% off all tickets. National Council): www.shaff.co.uk David Brown and Alison Cairns. http://community.thebmc.co.uk/peak BMC AGM and Peak Area Hill Walk 30-31 March, Buxton Access Reps Co-ordinators: The BMC's 2019 AGM will be held on Henry Folkard and Louise Hawson. Sunday 31 March at the Devonshire Dome. [email protected] Things all kick off at 12 noon. And the day [email protected] before, you can join Peter and Austin for a circular walk from Buxton. See page 5, full Peak Area Hill Walking Reps: details to be announced shortly. Peter Judd and Austin Knott. www.thebmc.co.uk [email protected] [email protected]

Peak Area Newsletter Editorial: Dave Parry and John Coefield. [email protected]

Next meeting: Wednesday 23 January, 7.30 p.m. The Maynard, Grindleford, S32 2HE