Reflections of 1904'S Erzurum to Current Erzurum

ITU A|Z • Vol 13 No 2 • July 2016 • 157-173 Reflections of 1904’s Erzurum to current Erzurum

Ömer ATABEYOĞLU [email protected] • Department of Landscape Architecture, Faculty of Agriculture, Ordu University, Ordu, Turkey

Received: April 2015 • Final Acceptance: January 2016

Abstract Human activities and natural influences contribute to the heritage of a city through their richness. The relationship of a city’s historical processes and their contemporary reflections may only be assessed with the data and documents in- herited from its past periods. Erzurum City has a rich and bright historical past. Erzurum as one of the most crucial cities of the past has brought a glorious heritage from past to present. The oldest original map that serves as a source of information on the structure of the city is the one drawn by Fuat Bey in 1904 that is kept in Erzurum museum. The purpose of this study is to evaluate the relationship between the present status of Erzurum and its past through information obtained from the 1904 city plan of Erzurum. The study was initiated with a survey of the literature on the history and urban culture of Erzurum City and the evaluation of data collected from the 1904 map. Afterwards, the data provided on Fuat Bey’s Map is compared with today’s data of Erzurum. The coordinates have been taken, and the buildings and structures mentioned on the map which have survived until today have been photographed. Furthermore, their present situations, their usage and their functions in urban structure of Erzurum have been revealed. In the results section, all of the existing structures mentioned on the historical map have been processed on the map of the current city. Thus, the city’s historical change, its protection and its destruction, additionally their impacts on the development of the city is shown.

Keywords doi: 10.5505/itujfa.2016.41713 10.5505/itujfa.2016.41713 doi: Erzurum, Historical city, The Fuat Bey’s Map, Historical map, Urban plan. 158

1. Introduction such as accommodation and commer- Cities as centers of information and cial buildings. The city also served as a culture are living organisms that ren- military base, due to its strategic loca- ovate themselves. They collect and tion and hosted military and defense take notes of experiences by cultural plants. Throughout history many pil- heritage throughout history (Karatepe grims’/travelers’ paths passed directly 1999). The cultural heritage serves as or indirectly through Erzurum being a bridge that makes contact between both a major commercial and adminis- today and past. The cities take shape trative center that connected West and thorough their cultural heritage. The East, Europe and Asia. Those pilgrims/ cultural heritage could be easily de- travelers expressed their views about stroyed if not well utilized. The cultural the nature, important buildings and heritage which has survived until the the city’s structure from their trips to present is a structural part of historical Erzurum. urban texture. All of cultural, econom- In their travels between 13th and ic and social factors generate historical 19th centuries A.C. pilgrims including urban texture (Kökten, 1996; Deve- Marco Polo, Tavarni and Pushkin men- lioğlu, 1991; Turgut, 2010). Turkey tioned that Erzurum under the Ilkha- with its rich history has hosted many nians’ administration was a great and civilizations all of which have affected beautiful city with mostly gardened the function and aesthetics of its cities. houses spread over a wide area with While some cities preserve their char- 3 rivers crossing it and lush creeks. acteristic, others experience deeper According to the sayings of pilgrims/ changes through time. Erzurum bears travelers; the city was surrounded with the traces of civilizations which it has double walls extending to more than 6 hosted. Many characteristics of its her- km in length and with a castle having itage have reached today, but some of 62 towers. There were 24 pieces of can- these have been lost to time and mod- non balls around the castle. The hous- ernization (Atabeyoğlu et al. 2009 and es constructed were adobe, wood and 2012). stone and the roofs were covered with Erzurum has hosted many civiliza- grass. There were many caravanserais tions; it has seen empires, states, and in the city. There are sixteen baths and clans. The foundation of Erzurum about a hundred religious buildings dates back to 1400s B.C., and Hurrians, in addition to many aqueducts and a Urartu, Medes, Persians, Macedonians, vast number of fountains in the city. A Seleucids, Parthians, Romans, Byzan- crucially important trade route passes tines, the Sassanid Empire, Armenians, through Erzurum connecting Europe Umayyads, Abbasids, Seljuks, the Sal- and East Asia. According to the famous tukids, Anatolian Seljuks, the Ilhans Ottoman traveler Evliya Çelebi’ notes Clan, the Sutays Clan, the Cobans in 1641-1642; the city was on a grassy Clan, Eratnians, Tamerlane, the Ak- and flowery plain, surrounded by hun- koyunlu, the Karakoyunlu, the Safavids dreds of prosperous villages, the hous- and lastly the Ottomans have reigned es were covered by soil and were in the (Yılmaz, 2011). In the 7th century, its form of old Turkish houses, and the city population increased to 200 thousand, had many palaces, mansions, mosques, and became one of the biggest cities of inns, baths, fountains, schools, shops, the world. In addition, the city served the bazaar, jewelers, and silk manufac- as the capital of the Saltuklu (Anon., turers. However, many of the travelers 2011). that came to Erzurum after the Russian Having hosted many civilizations, war mentioned that the city was heavi- the city became a center in commer- ly destroyed (Kılıç, 1998). cial and strategic sense. Therefore it From the first day of its establishment has been very well constructed by at- till the 19th century, the city remained tracting special interest and support inside its three rows, and preserved the of statesmen in each period. Due to pattern of its old plan which was shaped its intense commercial activity in the like a flat circle. The center of this circle past, the city attracted attention with a is still standing as a rectangular shaped large number of its structural elements citadel on a hill (Figure 1). According

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ture can be derived from the ancient photographs taken, and from the travel books of that period. In addition, Fuat Bey’s 1904 Erzurum city map’s layout and texture has an utmost importance to evaluate, and compare the past and current texture and order of the city.

2. Material The materials of this study are Er- zurum city itself, and the map drawn at 1/25.000 scale, by a Caucasian ori- gin Staff Captain Fuat Bey dated 1904 Figure 1. Portrayal of Erzurum drawn by Josep Tournefort in original of which is located at Erzurum 1716 (Tournefort, 2005; Kılıç 1998). Archaeological Museum. The map also has the characteristic of being the first city plan prepared for Erzurum (Figure 3). In this study, the surviving buildings listed on the historical map were taken into consideration. Later, by label- ling, and positioning these structures on present-day Erzurum city map, it is aimed at highlighting the historical city center’s contribution to the development, and structure of today’s city; also the importance, and impact of old historic infrastructure to the structure of the modern city. Furthermore, it is targeted to document the forgotten and disappearing culture and history in the Figure 2. Physical development duration of Erzurum City Centure structure of the modern city even by (Turgut et al. 2009). the population living in Erzurum. In to Beygu (1936) many of the walls were addition to providing the data, and dismantled in 1853. There had been conditions of those years provided by slight changes in the city’s old cultural the1904 map, the main underlying physiognomy due to partly applied zon- idea of this study is the responsibility ing plan by Mr. Lambert in 1939 (Tan- of transferring today’s information to rıverdi,1973). The urban structure has the future generations. developed around the same core. The Located at an altitude of 1869 m., growing urban structure area and popu- Erzurum city borders Kars and Ağrı in lation have used their historical heritage the East, Muş and Bingöl in the South, (Figure 2). Erzincan and Bayburt in the West and The people living in Erzurum until Rize and Artvin in the North. The city the Republican era, 1923 were staying is the fourth largest city in Turkey in at earth-roofed buildings which were terms of land area. The city has a pop- made out of black stones, with carved ulation of 763.320 people. Population corner stones, and double-deckers. The of the map area is 235.537 people (TSI, streets were very narrow and intricate 2015). It has an important strategic po- having large courtyards (Tanrıverdi, sition since it is a crucial transit route 1973). to Caucasian Republics, and to Iran. The surviving historical elements, The city is rich on account of monu- urban texture of Erzurum provide in- ments from ancient civilizations (Yıl- formation about its glorious past. The maz, 2011; EMM, 1996). city still hosts many historical elements such as baths, inns, mosques, civil ar- 2.1. Fuat Bey’s map chitecture samples, fountains, and cu- The Map is prepared in 1/25000 polas. Information on the urban tex- scale and shows the urban settlement

Reflections of 1904’s Erzurum to current Erzurum 160

Figure 3. 1904s Erzurum City Map (Elginöz 2007). of 1904 by Caucasian Staff Captain Fuat given but there is no information con- Bey. The original map is located at the cerning the general housing tissue of Erzurum Archaeological Museum, and the city on the map. The topograph- was printed by the Military Academy ic details such as Mount Topdağ and printing press. The map is originally in Kiremitlik Hills, and creeks passing Ottoman language, in third columns through the city are important details all buildings are ranked, and gener- provided by the map. The outer walls al information about the city is given surrounding the city, locations of the (Yurttaş, 2000). On those columns, canons said to be on the walls, and the classified information under different gates permitting access into the city are names about the baths (10 units), the also shown on the map. The informa- private schools (4 units), the hotels tion concerning the inner castle’s gates (4units), the inns/hans (8 units), the and its walls are not mentioned. The state buildings (13 units), the mosques forts nearby, some cemeteries, urban (15 units), the churches (5 units) and and rural roads, hospitals, military in- some information about Erzurum is stitutions and monuments are the as- available. pects located on the map. Even though The Map accurately shows the actu- the map was prepared based on parcels; al locations of the structures specified. it does not provide too many details of However, although there are errors in the parcels. the distances and scales, it provides Some names and places marked on important ideas about distances and the map do not exist at present. Some dimensions of the structure. The map cemeteries mentioned on the map covers the center of today’s Erzurum, seem to have disappeared today due to Yakutiye District, and its surrounding the urban fabric and urban settlements. areas. Among those losses, the disappearance Important buildings in the city were of the outer walls of the castle, and the

ITU A|Z • Vol 13 No 2 • July 2016 • Ö. Atabeyoğlu 161 streams passing through the city are The fourth feature of the city is that significant. it is a governmental city. Throughout history, the city had been valued as one 3. Urban features of Erzurum in 1904 of the most important cities of the em- Based on the information extracted pires, and often acted as headquarters. from the 1904 map, the city basically Many institutions and consulates were puts forward a few of its features. The located in the city. Therefore the city first feature is that the city was planned always had very active relations with as a city of defense. Erzurum, through- neighboring cities and foreign coun- out its history, has been an important tries; thus, mostly states or empires city of military bases and troops and emphasized its urban structure, and due to its strategic location has faced its evaluation based on maps and trav- many wars. In order to be protected el-book were done by the state man- from the enemy, to defend the city, and agements. to fight back, a large number of forts Despite its strategic and commer- were built in the outskirts and high cial features and its administrative and thick outer walls surrounded the roles throughout history, Erzurum has city. At the center of the city a citadel experienced a lot of great trials and is located. As a military base, the city hardships as well. As a result, the city possesses many military barracks, and is a developing and attractive one on related warehouses, military schools the one hand, but facing destruction and military hospitals. and deterioration as a result of its ex- This structure of the city has result- periences on the other hand. Thus, the ed in an intense construction of the city failed to show a steady growth, and city in castelwalls, and in a narrower could not bear its past glory until to- space. In addition, this form of the city day in the same way. Erzurum, being has revealed some of the gates of the located on the Silk Road, was affected castelwalls. In time, the outside castle by all the changes associated with these walls were demolished, and used for trade routes. the construction of the forts. Thus, The Silk Road was affected nega- only some gates of the castelwalls re- tively after the discovery of the Cape main standing. of Good Hope and the opening of the The second feature is the housing tis- Suez Canal in 1869, and after those two sue of the city. Erzurum was an attrac- developments, the trade route rotated tive city for settlements. The informa- towards sea routes. The rail lines built in tion gathered through the chronicles, the neighboring countries and within the travelogues, and the remaining civ- the country resulted in more negative il architecture also supports this; fur- effects on the Silk Road as some part of thermore, it is also known that there the trade rotated towards the railways were palaces, kiosks, and single, and route. All these factors reduced the double-storey houses which were in- importance of the Silk Road and also habited by the public. However, most weakened the commercial importance of these structures have been destroyed of Erzurum. The city has also been in during wars which caused significant the wars due to its strategic location reduction in the number of people re- throughout its history. Before the 17th siding in the city. Based on the map, century, Persian-Ottoman and after the population of the city was around the 18th century the Ottoman-Russian 45 thousands in the early 1900s. wars thoroughly weakened the city. In The third important feature of the addition to the human impact, the nat- city is its commercial structure. Due to ural disasters have also affected the city. its location on major trade routes, the Many earthquakes devastated the city, city had very dense commercial activ- and it experienced great destructions. ity. Therefore, there were many inns Particularly, one of the most devastat- in order to meet the demands of the ing earthquakes was in 1859. Accord- merchants, in addition to many trade ing to the letter of governor Arif Pasha, buildings in the city. 2735 shops, stores 867 shops, 26 mosques, 60 schools and and cafes, 35 inns, 4 hotels, and 17 madrasas, and 62 inns and baths were baths are recorded on Fuat Bey’s map. completely destroyed (Zeynal, 2011).

Reflections of 1904’s Erzurum to current Erzurum 162

Figure 4. Locations of the buildings, stated in the 1904’s map, in today’s Erzurum.

3.1. According to the information sons of this irregularity are particularly given in the Erzurum map of 1904 the concentration of the settlements The state-owned spaces/buildings around the castle, the general Turkish can be listed as; Government House, type neighboring settlement around 4 Military Barracks, 11 Police Stations, mosques, and fountains; and attrac- 1 School of Civil Management, 1 Mil- tiveness of settling around the streams. itary High school, 1 Military Ware- Depending on these factors neigh- house, 1 Armory, 1 Flag Tower, 1 Mili- borhoods are often developed inde- tary Hospital, 1 Hospital for Homeless, pendently, and then combined in time. and Poor, 3 Additional Armories; com- The military institutions are also main- mon spaces/buildings can be listed as; taining important focus in settlements. 65 Mosques and Temples, 15 Tombs The layout of Erzurum in 1904 is and 15 Tekkes, 5 Churches and Mon- very similar to today’s Erzurum. Arme- asteries; additionally 1 Murahhashane, nian and Muslim cemeteries are avail- 1 Seneseryan School, 1 Jesuit School, 1 able in the city, and in different places. High school for Female Students and Urban functions are ungrouped in the Primary School, 2 Primary Schools for city. Military structures, organizational Male Students, 1 Industrial School, 130 structures, commercial, residential and Madrasahs and Library, 42 Elementary other urban elements are distributed School, additionally 2735 Stores, Shops as mixed. There are 4 gates, 4 ways to and Coffeehouse, 35 Inns, 4 Hotels, 17 enter the city (Figure 4) (Table 1). All Baths, 53 Bakeries, 30 Mills with 125 connections to surrounding cities and Fountains, 6 Public Gardens, 1 Grand villages are provided through those National Garden. roads. The city is built along narrow Based on this information, it is un- and sometimes dead-end streets which derstood that in the early 1900s Er- is a feature of traditional Turkish urban zurum was quite advanced, and had structure. great opportunities in trade, and edu- cation; furthermore the city was very 4.1. The gates rich in terms of social structure and When the outer castle was first built, opportunity. the citadel had 3 gates for all entrances and exits. These were Tebrizkapi, Erz- 4. Erzurum in 1904 and in today incankapi and Gurcukapi (1869-1870); In 1904, Erzurum had a complex and Yenikapi was added in 1737 as the urban texture as well as the contem- fourth one. The land fort surrounding porary one. The city is dominated by the city had 4 stone arched gates (1865- an irregular structure. The main rea- 1877), named as Karskapi, Harputkapi, ITU A|Z • Vol 13 No 2 • July 2016 • Ö. Atabeyoğlu 163

Table 1. Coordinate data of historical buildings located and evaluated in the 1904’s map.

Name of the structure/monument Latitude Longitude Inner Citadel 39 ° 54'27.82 "N 41 ° 16'36.67 "E Twin Minaret Weapons Warehouse 39 ° 54'20.35 "N 41 ° 16'42.19 "E Ulu-Great Mosque (Mosque Kebir) 39 ° 54'21.86 "N 41 ° 16'39.78 "E Tashambar-Stone Warehouse (Military Store Warehouse) 39 ° 54'16.24 "N 41 ° 16'31.52 "E Morgof Barracks 39 ° 54'23.19 "N 41 ° 16'16.95 "E Gendarmerie Barracks 39 ° 54'16.45 "N 41 ° 16'25.94 "E Civilian Highschool 39 ° 54'17.43 "N 41 ° 16'39.19 "E Military Hospital 39 ° 54'30.25 "N 41 ° 15'52.33 "E Gureba Hospital (Hospital for poors) 39 ° 54'33.56 "N 41 ° 15'56.21 "E Lalapasha Mosque 39 ° 54'22.65 "N 41 ° 16'23.57 "E Caferiye Mosque 39 ° 54'23.12 "N 41 ° 16'31.13 "E Murad Pasha Mosque 39 ° 54'15.64 "N 41 ° 16'12.52 "E Leaded Mosque 39 ° 54'30.61 "N 41 ° 16'31.87 "E Esad Pasha Mosque 39 ° 54'27.43 "N 41 ° 16'28.11 "E Civilian School 39 ° 54'21.31 "N 41 ° 15'48.47 "E Ibrahim Pasha Mosque 39 ° 54'17.81 "N 41 ° 16'27.74 "E Sheikhs Mosque 39 ° 54'11.76 "N 41 ° 16'23.62 "E Black Hell Mosque 39 ° 54'14.83 "N 41 ° 16'32.84 "E French High School 39 ° 54'44.52 "N 41 ° 16'56.15 "E Customs Mosque 39 ° 54'47.14 "N 41 ° 16'50.46 "E Komesli Inn 39 ° 54'47.17 "N 41 ° 16'36.06 "E Rum Church 39 ° 54'47.37 "N 41 ° 16'28.27 "E Georgian Mosque 39 ° 54'40.20 "N 41 ° 16'26.28 "E Dyehouse Mosque 39 ° 54'28.67 "N 41 ° 16'20.17 "E Shafi Mosque 39 ° 54'27.05 "N 41 ° 16'42.07 "E Niece Aga Mosque 39 ° 54'43.43 "N 41 ° 16'47.51 "E Pastirmajian, Fuadiye, Erzurum Bath 39 ° 54'36.98 "N 41 ° 16'23.66 "E Sheikhs Bath 39 ° 54'12.59 "N 41 ° 16'21.47 "E Small Bath 39 ° 54'41.32 "N 41 ° 16'29.87 "E Customs Bath 39 ° 54'46.55 "N 41 ° 16'49.60 "E Murad Pasha Bath 39 ° 54'14.09 "N 41 ° 16'13.25 "E Dyehouse Bath 39 ° 54'28.30 "N 41 ° 16'20.64 "E Forty Fountains Bath 39 ° 54'31.94 "N 41 ° 16'29.65 "E Dervish Aga Mosque and Inn 39 ° 54'36.30 "N 41 ° 16'43.94 "E Pilgrims Inn 39 ° 54'39.37 "N 41 ° 16'29.01 "E Kanburoglu Inn 39 ° 54'45.80 "N 41 ° 16'47.07 "E Customs Inn 39 ° 54'46.46 "N 41 ° 16'50.32 "E Ali Pasha Mosque 39 ° 54'4 5.90 "N 41 ° 16'35.99 "E Kars Gate 39 ° 54'22.62 "N 41 ° 17'32.55 "E Harput Gate 39 ° 54'0.30 "N 41 ° 15'50.02 "E Istanbul Gate 39 ° 54'40.81 "N 41 ° 15'43.98 "E Poplar Gate 39 ° 55'8.53 "N 41 ° 16'33.82 "E

Istanbulkapi, and Kavakkapi (Yılmaz, is also stated in addition to the citadel 2011; Anon., 2016a; Yurttaş 1998; Sol- gates called Gürcü Gate, Erzincan Gate maz, 1999) (Figure 5). and Yeni Gate. However, there is no in- Out of 10 gates constructed on the formation available concerning Rum 2 rows of castelwalls surrounding Er- Gate. zurum, and allowing city entry and Among all the Gates, Istanbul Gate exit; Kavak (Poplar), Istanbul, Harput, is currently located in a park on an av- Kars, Gürcü (Georgian), Erzincan, Te- enue with the same name. One of the briz (Tabriz), Yeni (New), Gez, Ugrun major and heavily used transportation Gates; only Kavak, Istanbul, Harput routes of the city is utilized in a recre- and Kars Gates have survived. Accord- ational area. The gate added value to ing to Konyalı (1960); The Rum Gate the city as a defining element, even the Reflections of 1904’s Erzurum to current Erzurum 164

Figure 5. Kavak Gate. region began to be called by the same Sıtkı Pasha was formed, and those bas- name. Additionally it has caused the tions were built (1869-1871) according formation of an important recreational to the projects prepared by the com- area and has contributed to the green mission. The Aziziye Bastions where tissue of the city. Harput Gate was the bloodiest battles happened during discovered incidentally during the ex- Ottoman-Russian War and 93 War cavation for an institutional building, have special importance in the histo- uncovered, and protected despite it ry of Turkey. 21 bastions were built to does not have any functional task. The defend the city against possible attacks best preserved gate, Kars Gate current- that might come from Iran and Russia ly located in a military area can be seen and were placed in Gürcüboğazı Pas- from outside and is still well main- sage in the north, in Ogee/Deveboynu tained. Kavak Gate, located at the bor- Passage in the East and in the Palan- der of the two districts connects two doken Passage in the South of the city. neighborhoods providing both vehicle, The first bastion of Erzurum, Hasani and pedestrian access. The upper part Basri Toprak (Soil) Bastion, was built of the gate is also in a military zone, in 1821 and the others were built after- and it is not possible to climb on its soil wards. The bastions differ from other covered top. It has managed to stand structures with their architectural de- intact as some part of it is located in a signs, were embedded in the ground military region and the remaining part up half their heights, and supplement- is still actively used. Three out of four ed by 10 meters of soil stack support gates have active usage in the urban from the side of possible enemy attack layout. Therefore they have become in order to be protected from the long- highly effective and functional in the range artilleries. Therefore bastions are urban culture and urban structure. The in compliance with the terrain almost Gates are important cultural and visual invisible from long distances. As their elements in the city. military functionalities and purposes are priorly important, the main ar- 4.2. The bastions chitectural principle of bastions is to According to Cam (1993); a bas- be resistant. Within the bastions; the tion means a fortified place or building following defense purposed buildings, made for the temporarily quartering of barracks, military headquarter build- the soldiers and to make war in order ings, arsenals, training places, guard- to protect a place of strategic military house, squadron or battalion buildings, importance (Yılmaz, 2011). soldiers’ and officers’ sleeping areas, -ar The stone materials are generally tillery rooms, ambush rooms; and ad- used in the bastions that are fortifica- ditionally baths, laundry, kitchen, bak- tion buildings. Bricks are only used in ery, and necessary units for everyday vaults. Depending on the number of life like food stores are placed (Anon., construction workers, it took approxi- 2014a). mately five years to construct them. Er- Cities, towns, and important settle- zurum bastions were built by Turkish ments were maintained, and defended officers and engineers. During the Sul- by donjons, citadels, castles fortified by tan Abdulaziz era, a commission under ditches until the invention of highly the management of Fosfor Mustafa destructive power cannons. The bas- ITU A|Z • Vol 13 No 2 • July 2016 • Ö. Atabeyoğlu 165

Figure 6. Castel of Erzurum. tions of Erzurum are both adjacent rior walls. The exterior castelwalls were and individually constructed. The city removed, and the stones were used to is surrounded by adjacent type fortifi- build bastions after 1865. Soiled cas- cations (Konyalı, 1960). telwalls were constructed around the The following bastions are stated on city between 1830-1840. The walls, the map; referred to as soiled bastions, had en- • Aziziye Bastion try gates with stone arches at all four • Mecidiye Bastion directions. Deep ditches filled with wa- • Big Kiremitlik Bastion ter were dug on their outer parts (Yıl- • Small Kiremitlik Bastion maz, 2011). Evliya Celebi, on his travel • Ahali (The Public) Bastion book, indicates that there were 1.700 Aziziye and Mecidiye bastions were earth-roofed homes within the borders located in a military zone until recent- of Inner Citadel walls (Anon., 2014b). ly, thus they were preserved well-main- Today as not having an active use, tained and kept in good shape until the castle is open to visitors and tour- today. The area was declared as a na- ists. As the castle remained on the city’s tional park recently, providing open major transportation routes and the green space to urban fabric, recre- city center, it is both an archaeological ational facilities and the opportunity site due to excavations carried out and to contribute to the city in terms of has been transformed into an open-air tourism value. The Big and Small Kire- museum; the castle, the mosque, and mitlik Bastions areas have stayed in the the clock tower stand intact, and par- city, contributing as recreational area, ticularly the clock tower has become sports complex, and add extra value to one of the most important symbols of the silhouette of Erzurum. the city.

4.3. The citadel 4.4. The buildings It is estimated that the Castle has 4.4.1. The Turkish baths (Hammams) been built by the Eastern Roman (Byz- The baths in Erzurum have always antine) Emperor Theodosius II be- been ongoing commercial organizations tween the years 415-422. The Castle since centuries. They are mostly baths was renovated many times. Accord- serving foundations, and they were ing to the travel book of Evliya Cele- aimed to meet the financial expenses bi, there is a water-filled ditch around of the same foundation’s mosques, and the castle having 80 steps width and madrasahs (Zeynal, 2011). Erzurum has 20 cubits depth. It is also told in the 14 baths from the Ottomans which were same book that there are gates around built in between 16th and 18th century the castle and bridges passing over the (Yılmaz, 2011) (Figure 7). ditches to reach the gates (Konyalı, There are many baths in Erzurum 1960) (Figure 6). just like in any other Turkish city. Their The area surrounding the outer cit- numbers increased after the acceptance adel was surrounded by walls of 38 of Islam. During the wars and invasions, meters height with 110 donjons. There like the other buildings the baths were were 15 meter deep ditches outside of also so much destroyed that, no solid the exterior walls. There was a distance bath remains. of 52 meters between interior and exte- The baths mentioned on the map are Reflections of 1904’s Erzurum to current Erzurum 166

Figure 7. Two Belly Bath and Customs Bath. as follows; 2015; Özkan, 2010; Ünal, 1974; Çınar, • Küçük (Small) Bath (16th century) 2010; Çınar, 2011). • Kırk Çeşme (Fourty Fountains) Bath (16th century) 4.4.2. The inns • Pastırmacı (Pastirmajian) Bath The term “caravansary” is also used (17th century) for the Inns in some sources. Inns or • Caferiye Bath (17th century) caravansaries are the buildings where • Şeyhler (Sheikhs) Bath (1737- the merchants, travelers and passen- 1766) gers stayed, me their needs and rested • İki Göbek (Two Belly) Bath (The their animals. The Inns had important first half of the 18th century) presence due to Erzurum’s location on • Gümrük (Customs) Bath (The first major trade routes. According to Kony- quarter of the 18th century) alı (1960), in Evliya Celebi’s travel book • Murat Paşa (Pasha) Bath (The sec- there were up to 70 inns in Erzurum. ond half of the 18th century) Based on Zeynal (2011); some of them • Ayaz Paşa (Pasha) Bath were destroyed in the 1859 earthquake. • Mektebi İdadi (Secondary School) The names of only 37 inns are Bath known, out of those 70 inns only 8 of (Köşklü and Çınar, 2010; Özkan, them have reached today. The ones that

a b

c d Figure 8. ab) Pilgrims Inn. cd) Kanburoglu Inn.

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Figure 9. Locations of the inns and hammams, stated in the 1904’s map, in today’s Erzurum. were mentioned on the map are; liha to (Shooting) Hatch (14th cen- Dervish Ağa Inn tury) • Gümrük (Customs) Inn (1720-1726) • Erzak-ı Askeriye (Military Grocery) • Hacılar (Pilgrims) Inn (18th century) Hatch (19th century) • Kanburoğlu Inn (Şehidoğlu, 1992; Yurttaş, 2000) • Cennetzade Inn (18th century) Firdevsoglu Barracks are used by • Komesli Inn (18th century) units of the municipality as an annex. • Hapan Inn (19th century) Complying with the ‘using to protect’ • Kadioğlu Inn principle; the function fulfillment, and (Köşklü, 2010; Ünal, 1974). protection of the building for today, The inns were spread out in differ- and for the future are both achieved. ent areas within the city, and served Morgof Barrack not existing today is the city, and the citizens under various known as recently having collapsed. In functions. Even though they were of- the past they were located in the city ten used or seen in everyday life, inns center, which is now the town square: stayed unknown by Erzurum’s people; the busiest part of the city, which is the reason for this being their hidden considered, and used as strolling and and suppressed locations in the cur- resting area. Çifte Minare is used as rent urban structure. Currently they an exhibition area with cafés and tour- are evaluated for trade purposes or as istic places. Military Grocery Hatch, warehouses, but their historical struc- although located at a busy city axis in tures do contribute to tourism, and the city center, is still used as a military strengthen the historical image of the hatch just like in the past (Figure 9 and city (Figure 8). 10).

4.4.3. The military structures 4.4.4. The schools Erzurum has always been a military Evliya Celebi, in his travel book, base due to its strategic location in ev- stated about Erzurum madrasas and ery period of history. As the city is an schools that; “Erzurum has madrasahs, important gateway to Anatolia, many Dar-ul Kurra, Dar-ul Hadith, and 110 buildings have been built for defensive elementary schools for general educa- purposes. There are also many barracks tional purposes “Unfortunately none and armories. of them survived until today (Konyalı, • Firdevsoglu Barracks (1869-1873) 1960). Additionally, Erzurum had 3 • Süvari (Cavalry) Barracks madrasahs built during Ilkhanians and • Morgof Barracks (1877-1897) Seljuks’s periods (Yakutiye, Çifte Min- • Gendarmerie Barracks are, and Hatuniye); and 20 more built • Çifte Minare (Double Minaret) Es- in Ottoman period. 3 of 20 Ottoman

Reflections of 1904’s Erzurum to current Erzurum 168

a b

c d Figure 10. ab) Double Minaret Esliha to (Shooting) Hatch cd) Firdevsoglu Barracks. period’s madrasahs survived until to- Turkish, Armenian and French educa- day (Şeyler “Sheikhs”, Pervizoglu, and tion, had also the best orchestra of the Kurşunlu “Leaded” Madrasah) (Yıl- city (Anon., 2014c). Except for its outer maz, 2011). walls, the 3 storey high school building is The schools and madrasas stated on completely destroyed, and has no tour- the map are; istic or functional purpose (Figure 11). • Yakutiye Madrasa (1310) • Çifte Minare Madrasa (14th century) 4.4.5. The tombs • Military High School There are 21 tombs in Erzurum and • Civilian High School its surrounding areas. 5 tombs having • French High School rectangular plans are of the periods Yakutiye Madrasah located at the of Saltuklu, Seljuk, Ilkhanid and Ot- city center and in the area regarded as toman; 3 baldachin planned tombs of city square, is used as a museum. Its the Ottoman period; 1 polygonal body garden functionally contributes to the tomb of Akkoyunlu and Karakoyunlu city’s urban structure as a busy square period, 6 decagonal body, and 2 cylin- which is a strolling and recreational drical body tombs of the Ilkhanid pe- area. riod; 2 octagonal body, and 2 square The French High School, providing body tombs are of the periods of Sal-

Figure 11. French High School.

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Figure 12. Three Tombs. tukids and Ilkhanids (Yılmaz, 2011). With some additions, changes, and re- Referred in the map as follows; modeling; The Mansion and its garden • Üç Kümbetler (Three Tombs) (12- are open to public service. 14th century) (Anon., 2016b) 4.4.7. The hospitals Three Tombs as a touristic place lo- There were two major hospitals in cated in one of the city’s older neigh- the city according to the information borhoods, also contributes to the land- stated on the historical map. They were scape of the urban green space, and serving both the people living in the provides a significant contribution to city, and the people living in surround- the historical texture and image of the ing villages and cities. city (Figure 12). • Military Hospital • Gureba Hospital 4.4.6. The mansions Erzurum still maintains its char- Erzurum once had Beylerbeyi acter as a health center from the past Palace, Hamdi Pasha Mansion, and legacy of its history, still maintains its Shatir’s Chalet. As time passed by, all heritage, image and responsibility. This those buildings were destroyed, and shows how its past affected Erzurum’s disappeared. Only Yusuf Ziya Pasha development or how significantly the Mansion still survives. city has been affected by its historical Known as Köşk (The Mansion), it achievements and experiences in its fu- was built in between 1795-1798 by Yu- ture (Figure 13). suf Ziya Pasha, the Erzurum Governor. Today it is one of the most important 4.4.8. The mosques recreational areas in the city center, Despite the fact that there were so and is used with a family cafe concept. many, and dense wars causing huge

Figure 13. Current locations of the hospitals, military buildings and schools stated on the 1904’s map.

Reflections of 1904’s Erzurum to current Erzurum 170

Figure 14. Locations of the mosques in today’s Erzurum stated on the 1904’s map. destruction, and damages on many gle-domed, 1 center planned mosques important assets of Erzurum, there are from the Ottoman period, and 1 multi still a significant number of qualified wood supported mosque from Saltuk- buildings surviving, and those main- lular period (Figure 14 and 15) (Yıl- tain the nature of Erzurum a a histor- maz, 2011). ical city. In general during that same • Ulu (Great) (Atabey) Mosque (1179) process mosques, churches, and dif- • Lalapaşa Mosque (1562) ferent places of worship also suffered • Boyahane (Dyeing) Mosque (1566) major destruction during the warsbut • Murat Pasha Mosque (1573) very important assets have reached to- • Gürcü (Georgian) Mosque (1608) day. • Caferiye Mosque (1645) Historically, and touristicallythe • Kurşunlu (Leaded) Mosque (1700) most important ones are the Great • Dervişağa Mosque (1718) Mosque and the Lalapasha Mosque. • Gümrük (Customs) Mosque (1718) They are located in the historical • Şeyhler (Sheikhs) Mosque (1737- city core with other mosques which 1766) strengthen the city’s historic fabric, • Ibrahim Pasha Mosque (1748) and are important city elements to • Esat Pasha Mosque (1853) meet, to gather and also important as • Ali Pasha Mosque recreational areas.very few number of • Kara Cehennem (Black Hell) Mosque the churches have remained, and are • Şafiler (Shafis) Mosque mainly under protection, and some • Yeğen Ağa Mosque have been repaired. (Anon., 2016c, d, e; Özkan, 2010) There are 29 wood supported, 14 sin- There is 1 Armenian Church at the

Figure 15. Alipasa Mosque and Dervisaga Mosque.

ITU A|Z • Vol 13 No 2 • July 2016 • Ö. Atabeyoğlu 171 city center of Erzurum dating back impacts on its form, architecture, and to the 18th or 19th century (Yılmaz, its development. Therefore, there are a 2011). large number of commercial buildings On the map it is stated as: due to high trade activities, historical • Big Armenian Church walls surrounding the city, and many barracks due to military requirements, 4.4.9. The mills state buildings, consulates due to its There is more than 1.000 mills in governmental role, and owing to its be- villages and towns of Erzurum. Mills ing a well constructed and developed were production centers, creating em- city many great mosques, churches, ployment and added value. In those public and private schools, hospitals mills wheat, barley, rye flour was made and mills. into flour providing the need of people Fuat Bey’s 1904 map reveals the re- living in the city. ality that the city had lost the historical Erzurum mills are referred to as glorious look of its buildings having Kırk Değirmen “Forty-Mills”. For- existed in that period or the related ty-Mills were fed by the water sources map does not show all past existed city starting from the south east of Palan- structures and construction compo- doken, so called the Bosporus in the nents. Nevertheless, there are many past. The Mills, starting from the Bos- buildings that have been constructed porus extends to the pavilion, follow- before 1904 those are not shown on the ing Dere (the Creek) Neighborhood, map. Similarly, many structures and el- throughout the Çaykara Street, extends ements located on the map are not any to Slaughterhouses passing under the more existent in today’s Erzurum. It is Kuşkay Building and ends with the seen that today’s Erzurum as it was in last mill at the Slaughterhouse (Zeynal, 1904, has its focus at the same histori- 2011). cal city center as its urban core around There are two mills mentioned on which all urban functions, commer- the map. One of these mills is named cial and recreational requirements as “the Mill”, the other one as “the Mil- are focused, and within the historical itary Mill”. These two mills are consid- settlement. As time passes by, the city ered to be included among the For- expanded, and became quite large, and ty-Mills even though they are outside created satellite settlements as well. the Forty Mill’s route. The biggest difference is, now there are no more castelwalls surrounding 5. Conclusion the city, all creeks passing through the During all its historical process Er- city have dried out or their beds have zurum has acquired various achieve- been changed, therefore all the water ments, and experienced effects from all mills have disappeared, or have been civilizations, through the contributions destroyed in time. Also the cemeteries of both the natural and human factors. that have been indicated on the map Even though most of these contribu- and located in the city do no longer ex- tions have been lost, part of them re- ist in Erzurum. mains as an important heritage of the According to these evaluations, Er- city today. zurum is a city that continues its de- The information obtained from the velopment on its historical settlement historical records also reveals all the by considering the historical heritage experience of cities, their development of the city. All architectural and ur- and phases of change. All this informa- ban elements that were destroyed or tion, and records related to the phases have disappeared are preserved in their of Erzurum can be obtained from the forms as they have been found; historic documents and maps. elements, used or disposed, have main- In the light of all the information tained their places in the contempo- and evaluations, it can be seen that rary city. Erzurum periodically hosted large populations, but always was and is References a city of trade, military and govern- Anonymous (2011). A City Enlight- ment. These features of the city had ening the History. Coordinatorship of

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Reflections of 1904’s Erzurum to current Erzurum