Welcome to the Industry developed in late 18th and early Five Villages 19th centuries, particularly lead mining in the limestone areas, with smelting on he five villages of Whitford parish; Carmel, the coast. Following the technological Gorsedd, Lloc, Pantasaph, and Whitford have a T advances of the Industrial Revolution, fascinating history. new mines opened and there was a The standing stones and numerous barrows, where rapid increase in output. Sandstone and limestone were also quarried Bronze Age peoples buried their dead, indicate that locally. The population rose and communities developed as a result of the area was settled in Prehistoric times. the industrial growth. Carmel, Gorsedd, Pantasaph and Lloc developed to house miners and quarrymen. Churches, chapels and schools were built to For centuries it was disputed territory on the border of serve the increased population. Wales and England, changing ownership several times. Since early times, important transport routes have passed through the parish, from Numerous village churches and chapels remain, ranging from the simple prehistoric tracks, Roman roads, drovers’ routes and coaching roads to but cherished Lloc chapel to the grander Pantasaph church and friary. the modern A55 expressway that cuts through the parish. Successive The rolling landscape has always been farmed. It varies from the open waves of newcomers swelled the local population. Some were war-like, sheep-grazed common to the east to the more fertile agricultural land to others were more interested in trade, the west. The higher ground offers wide views out to sea, or across to the finding work or spiritual comfort. Some Clwydian Range and the Denbigh moors. just passed through, others settled and became part of the local communities. These village communities each have their own character, shaped by their history and the surrounding landscape. They have changed considerably Wealthy local landowners have had a throughout the centuries but continue to thrive. considerable influence on the villages. The Mostyn family and the Pennant This booklet has been produced by the local community to celebrate the rich family at Downing were great benefactors cultural and natural heritage of the area. Many thanks to all who have provided to Whitford. Viscount Feilding, who photographs or shared their memories and knowledge and to Ysgol Bro Carmel and Ysgol y Llan, Whitford. later became the Earl of Denbigh, built Pantasaph church and friary. The booklet can also be downloaded from www.cadwynclwyd.co.uk or www.flintshire.gov.uk/tourism Research: Lorna Jenner, with reference to the work of Rowland Tennant. Scripting: Lorna Jenner Editing: Dee Rivaz Design: Bill Smuts Printing: Design and Print 01352 704000 Wildlife photography: Simon Booth, Steve Young, Mick Brummage Old Photographs: Hazel Daniels, Ray Davies, Rosie Edwards, Beryl and Ronald Evans, Dave Evans, Fintshire Record Office, The Francis Ffrith Collection, Bob Hughes, Glenys Jones, Gordon Lloyd, The Pennant Society, Merfyn Roberts, John Still, Dorothy Williams, Helena Williams. Photographs: Lorna Jenner, Pete Lewis, Carl Rogers, Emma Warbrick Through the ages 1848 Holywell Lime Company built a mineral line serving White Quarry and Grange Cavern. 1814 1951 Carmel Welsh Carmel School opened. 2000BC Calvinistic Methodist Bronze Age tribes farmed locally. 1757 Chapel built. Numerous barrows remain, where Turnpike Acts passed to they buried their dead. improve Flintshire’s roads. Ten toll-gates built locally. 1726 Circa 600s Thomas Pennant, zoologist and First church may have geographical writer, was born been built in Whitford, at Downing Hall, Whitford. dedicated to St Beuno. 1852 Circa 1000 Work began Maen Achwyfan cross, building reputedly the tallest Gorsedd church. wheelcross in Britain, was built near Whitford. 1849 Work began building Pantasaph church, and 50-60 later, the Franciscan Friary A Roman road and stations of the cross. ran through Circa 600s 1086 Carmel and Whitford Dyke built. Whitford and 1773 Gorsedd. Remnants of this earth Calcot mentioned Holywell Level Company began Romans mined bank that ran from in Domesday Book. mining the Great Holloway Vein 1886/87 and smelted near Holywell to around Carmel Locals rebelled against paying lead locally. Trelawnyd and Gorsedd. tithes. Soldiers brought to can still be Pentreffynnon, Whitford, to help seen today. bailiffs collect tithes. 1768 First races held at Holywell Racecourse, near Gorsedd. Border country he Five Villages have had a turbulent past due to their fighting between the Welsh, led by the Tlocation on the border of Wales and England, their brothers, Llywelyn and Dafydd ap Gruffydd, proximity to the coast and the potential mineral wealth and English under Henry III and his son below ground. Edward. In 1257, Llywelyn regained Tegeingl but, when Edward became king, he was Roman Legions would have marched through the area, determined to have full control of Wales as it was under control of the 20th Legion, based in and, in 1277, quickly defeated Llywelyn’s Chester, and was en route to the large Roman settlement men. In 1282, Dafydd rebelled again but was at Caernarfon. However, the Romans were probably more also crushed. Edward built the mighty stone interested in trading than fighting, exploiting the local lead and castles at Rhuddlan and Flint to show his strength and other minerals. the five villages area would have been under English control. Whitford Dyke is another During Owain Glyndŵr’s rebellion of 1400, many local men, including reminder of the borderland an ancestor of Lord Mostyn, are likely to have been involved in his history. This tall bank, with attacks of Flint and Rhuddlan castles. a ditch on both sides, runs from Gorsedd to Trelawnyd. In the 17th century there was further unrest during the Civil War. It was probably some form Flintshire gentry, freeholders and clergy pledged support for King of boundary marker but its Charles, including the Mostyns. Colonel Roger Mostyn was one of the origins are uncertain. Some first of the local gentry to take up arms, quickly raising an army of think it was dug in the 7th agricultural labourers and miners. Following the century for the Saxon rulers eventual defeat of the Royalists, Lord Mostyn of Mercia, and was related to and his neighbour, Robert Pennant, were Offa’s and Wat’s Dykes that run fined for ‘taking up arms for the King’. to the east. Others think it may be an earlier Bronze Age structure. Later, the Princes of Gwynedd and the Earls of Chester fought over the area. By the late 11th century, it was under Norman control, part of the lordship of Tegeingl that was annexed to Cheshire. In the 13th century it was disputed territory once more, with fierce Wealth and grandeur everal wealthy landowners owned The local gentry were passionate about horseracing Smuch of the land in the area, most and formed a society called the Holywell Hunt in notably the Mostyns, the Pennants, the 1767. They built Holywell Racecourse at Gorsedd on Dukes of Westminster and the Earls of land owned largely by the Earl of Denbigh and Lord Denbigh. They had great influence in the Mostyn, holding annual autumn races. As area, buildings churches, running mines, the races grew in popularity, funding schools and supporting village a starting tower and events. Whitford has particularly close links grandstand were erected John Roberts rescues the Pennant with the Mostyn and Pennant families. and purpose-built stables family crest from Downing were added later. It’s “As a child I used to live at The land in the Gwibnant Valley was known as hard to imagine this peaceful area as it Penrallt on the edge of the ‘Pennant land’. It was here, in 1627, that John must have looked during race week, with Mostyn Estate. Lord Mostyn Pennant built his grand residence, Downing Hall. bookmakers, sideshows and spectators lining used to regularly ride by on In 1922, fire damaged the house badly and it was the course! One filly, the Queen of Trumps, trained his horse and would often demolished in 1953. The stables and hunt kennels by Lord Mostyn, won the Holywell Champagne Stakes in give me a threepenny bit.” still remain and have been converted to houses. 1834 and went on to win the prestigious St Leger and The Oaks! The last A former lodge house stands at the edge of the Sue Hughes recorded races were held in 1842, the year before autumn racing began in village; the land behind, once parkland, is still Chester, a probable factor in its demise. dotted with old trees. Allegedly, there was sometimes rivalry between Thomas Pennant (1726 – 1798) the two families. Both were great benefactors to Whitford church, This eminent writer and antiquarian wrote funding the rebuilding ‘The gate opposite the school extensively about zoology but is best known of the west tower was always known as the Mostyn as a pioneer of travel writing. His ‘Tour in in 1873. The church Gate. When Lord and Lady Mostyn Wales’ popularised North Wales, setting a has two different attended services, they always trend for wealthy young Englishmen to entrances. Reputedly, entered through the door on that tour the Welsh mountains. He travelled on one was used by the side of the church and sat in the horseback accompanied by Welsh-speaking Mostyns, the other by left aisle.’ Reverend John Lloyd of Caerwys, and his The main gate, the Pennants. manservant and artist, Moses Griffith, who sketched en route. His Whitford Church Ronald Plummer (secretary of Whitford PCC 1998-2004) exact and detailed descriptions still make his writings of great interest today. Under your feet he underlying bedrock has shaped the Several accounts of the mine workings Tlandscape and land use of the Five refer to the underground streams and cave Villages. Over many millions of years, layers of systems.