SOUTHERN OCEAN 165 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Antarctic Convergence Horn Cape Islas Diego Ramirez Museo Marítimo de

( p171 ) ( p174 ), ( p174 ), ( p166 ) Cape Horn Cape Museo Marítimo Marítimo Museo Ushuaia Islas Diego Ramirez ( p168 ) ( p168 ) Antarctic Convergence Antarctic Convergence ( p172 ) ( p172 ) weather station at Atlantic and Pacific meet, and Pacific Atlantic alongside the pier in arctic ship models at the de Ushuaia the oceanographic boundary separating the oceanographic boundary separating of the world Antarctica from the rest

the lonely staff members of the Chilean Visit the Cross the Stand on the fabled headland where sight of your Antarctic ship tied up Catch the craftsmanship of handmade Ant- Admire

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

Crossing the Southern Ocean confers a psychological benefit to your Antarctic benefit journey, a psychological Crossing the Southern Ocean confers The very infrequent voyages to Antarctica from Australia, New Zealand or or South Africa New Zealand voyages to Antarctica from Australia, infrequent very The The more than 90% of Antarctic cruises that visit the Antarctic Peninsula sail from Ushuaia, than 90% of Antarctic Antarctic cruises that visit the Peninsula more The Many people are anxious about crossing the Southern Ocean, but it must be done in order anxious about crossing the Southern Many people are

Finally, the snow-capped peaks of Antarctica itself shimmer ahead on the horizon. Finally, scribing the horizon, then your first amazing iceberg, then many icebergs, then an island. then many icebergs, iceberg, scribing the horizon, then your first amazing plane ride: instead, it is unveiled gradually. En route, you’ll experience the open sea circum- gradually. En route, it is unveiled plane ride: instead, to prepare for Antarctica, to look forward to it. Antarctica is not attained by a homogenized for Antarctica, to look forward to it. Antarctica is not attained by a homogenized to prepare for it makes manifest the continent’s remoteness and isolation. The passage provides time passage provides and isolation. The the continent’s remoteness for it makes manifest also more time for bird-watching, stargazing and possibly seeing the aurora australis. stargazing time for bird-watching, also more require a longer voyage, meaning a greater chance of experiencing heavy weather. But there’s But there’s chance of experiencing heavy weather. a longer voyage, meaning a greater require Shetlands or the Peninsula, nearly all uncomfortable motion ceases. Shetlands or the Peninsula, also referred to as ‘paying the Drake Tax.’ Once your ship is in the calm waters of the South in the calm waters Once your ship is ‘paying the Drake to as Tax.’ also referred slower. Smooth seas are known as the ‘Drake‘Drake is called the Lake’; Shake,’ their opposite Smooth seas are slower. arctica. The crossing is generally accomplished in two days – sometimes faster, sometimes two days – sometimes faster, crossing is generally accomplished in The arctica. and across the Drake Passage, 1000km of ocean between South America and Ant- 1000km of ocean between South Drake Passage, across the and Argentina winds can reach great speeds – and the seas can get very rough. speeds – and the seas can get very great winds can reach low-pressure systems that ceaselessly circle Antarctica in a clockwise direction, the westerly the westerly that ceaselessly circle Antarctica direction, in a clockwise systems low-pressure to reach Antarctica. Certainly Antarctica. to impede the the weather can be stormy. With no landmasses to reach and climatically from the rest of the world. rest and climatically from the world, the Southern Ocean. It surrounds Antarctica and isolates it geographically, biologically biologically it geographically, Antarctica Ocean. It surrounds Southern and isolates world, the The southern parts of the Atlantic, Indian and Pacific Oceans form the fifth ocean of the form the fifth ocean Oceans southern partsThe Indian and Pacific of the Atlantic, Southern Ocean SOUTHERN OCEAN is located in a dramatic setting beneaththe is located inadramatic setting The southernmost cityintheworld,Ushuaia Orientation supporting Argentine claims to Antarctica. Ushuaia naval animportant base hasbeen del Fuego’seconomicbackbone. Since1950 individuals andfamilies,isstill Tierra Sheep great farmingbrought wealthto some political prisoners andcommon criminals. years forboth primarilyapenalsettlement and lumberbooms,thetownwas for many Tierra Despite delFuego’scapital. minorgold rial governor, andin1904Ushuaia became titled his experiencesamongtheYámanaandOna Ushuaia in1874,leftafascinatingmemoir of at Ushuaia. HissonLucasBridges, born at that language, becameoneof thefirst settlers later compiled a30,000-worddictionaryof he calledYahgan) atKeppel Island( p205 ) and Bridges , wholearnedtospeakYámana(which tempted tocatechize theFuegians.Thomas competition fortheirlands and resources. who lived inthearea facednoimmediate Yámana (orYahgan) andAlacalufpeoples Haush, theOna(orSelk’nam), Consequently, had much interest inthelandoritspeople. neither henoranyotherEuropeanexplorer thestraitthatnowbearsthrough hisname, of Fire.or Land In1520whenMagellan passed Europeans tocalltheregion Tierra delFuego, few innumber,builtthefires thatinspired land of plenty.TheYámanaIndians, nowvery tlement, yetindigenous peopleconsidered ita climate andterrain discouraged Europeanset- del Fuegoattractsvisitors onits own, too. influx of tourists:thisregion Antarctic of Tierra people. Growthisdueonlypartlytothemassive from asmallvillage intoacityof almost 60,000 penetrating tothewest’)hasexpandedrapidly is pronounced‘oosh-wya’andmeans‘bay During thepast25years, Ushuaia (the name History Peninsula. Antarctic the 1000km-wideDrake Passage fromthe city’s fortunate locationalmostdirectly across from Ushuaia inArgentina, thankstothe Nearly 90%of touristsdepart allAntarctic 166 % USHUAIA Beginning inthe1850s,Europeansat- Beginning By 1885Argentina aterrito- hadinstalled For more thanthree centuries,thisarea’s 02901 /pop58,000 OTENOEN • sui ••Ushuaia SOUTHERN OCEAN The Uttermost Part of the Earth (1948). Italian and Portuguese. man andItalian.Thestaff speaksEnglish,French, Hebrew, Ger- inSpanish,English,French, Portuguese, and transport sage boardanddetailedinformationonlodging, activities 9am-8pmSat & Sun)VeryMon-Fri, helpful,withames- 674; delfuego.org.ar/ushuaia; SanMartín Martín have ATMs. banksonMaipúbusiness. andSan Several toconfirmthisbefore it’swise although doing Most shopsandrestaurants acceptUSdollars, MONEY Octubre) Hospital Regional MEDICAL SERVICES and Tierra delFuego,in languages.several in English, plusmanybooksaboutUshuaia and videosanywhere intheworld–nearlyall hensive of books,maps selections Antarctic this bookstore hasoneof themostcompre- 62) .com.ar; 25deMayo Boutique delLibro BOOKSTORES Information views of the Channel. Beagle San Martín, streets steeply, givinggood rise the recently redeveloped waterfront. Northof one blocknorthof Maipú, which runsalong San Martín, theprincipalcommercialstreet, are onorwithinafew blocksof visitor services Ushuaia hasnocentralplaza. Mosthotels and ily recognized sharppinnacleeastof town. are toppedbyMonte Olivia(1318m),aneas- tomore level fromsea than1300mand rise ofjagged peaks theMontes Martial, which % National Parks office office tourist Municipal Instituto Fueguino deTurismo TOURIST INFORMATION hour. per San Martín. Internet accesscostsaboutAR$3 There are callcenters several located along ACCESSTELEPHONE &INTERNET to 1pm Sat Post office POST www.tierradelfuego.org.ar; 505; Maipú Albatros. 9am-8pmSat&Sun)Onthe groundfloorof Mon-Fri, Hotel 421315; San Martín 1395; 421315; San Martín ) ( cnr San Martín &Godoy; cnr SanMartín (

% ( (Administración deParques Nacionales; A short walkfromtheport,

% 432117; www.antartidaypatagonia ( 423200; cnr Maipú &12de 423200; cnrMaipú % h 432000/1; www.tierra 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) (Infuetur; h lonelyplanet.com h h 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm 8am-10pm % 421423; SOUTHERN OCEAN 48 15 was 167 41 (1.5km) Piatti B&B To Familia

0.4 miles Yaganes 14 3 RN 600 m C3 C4 C3 C4 B4 D3 C4 C4 D3 40 421863; tierra 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 D 16 % Antártida Argentina 39 20 31

( 44 Tourist Wharf 21 Rivadavia 7 47 38 34 8 Godoy museum 22 13 24

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d Roca 3 l Campos

30 a V 51 29 37 1 18 Lasserre 42 B a h í a 4 27 DRINKING ENTERTAINMENT TRANSPORT Moustacchio...... Ramos Generales...... Tante Sara...... Tía Elvira...... Dreamland...... Dublin Irish Pub...... Galway Irish Bar...... Saint Christopher Resto-Bar...... Cinema Packewaia...... (see 15) Localiza...... Volver...... D3 U s h u a i a

25 de Mayo 26 10 52 17 45 D3 C3 B4 C3 C3 B4 C3 B4 D3 C4 B4 C3 D3 D3 49 46

0 0 Juana Fadul 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 Solís 50 11 9am-8pm Nov-Apr, 12pm-7pm Mon-Sat May-Oct) 23 25 12 9 de Julio 19 Juan M de Rosas

MUSEO DEL FIN DEL MUNDO MUSEO DEL FIN DEL MUNDO the harbor, this Facing Maipú 175-79; admission AR$15; delfuego.org.ar/museo; h governor built in 1903 for the territorial and then was a Valdés, Fernández Manuel Banco the de la Nación until 1978. of branch Sights Sights Maipú 35 Romero Triunvirato

43 ὈὈ ὈὈ

Monseñor FagnanoDon Bosco San Martín San 33 To Los Cormoranes (150m)

Piedrabuena Deloquí Gobernador Paz Gobernador 53 B

Magallanes Luis Figue Lomitos Martinica...... Lupita's...... María Lola Restó...... Hostal Malvinas...... Hostel Cruz del Sur...... Macondo...... Mil 810...... Yakush...... Bar Ideal...... Bodegón Fueguino...... El Turco...... Kaupé...... La Cantina Fuegina de Freddy...... La Estancia...... La Rueda...... D3 Posada Fin del Mundo...... Pueblo Viejo...... C2 Torre al Sur Hostel...... D3 B4 EATING Belgrano

Sarmiento 36 Pasaje Pedro 5 D3 D3 D2 C3 C2 C3 D4 A5 C4 C4 D4 D3 D3 D3 C3 C4 C3 C4 A5 C4 C4 B4 C4 D3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 Patagonia Bahía 28

Encerrada 32 Campos Onas 9

SOUTHERN OCEAN •• Ushuaia Cemetery Malvinas Malvinas

San Martín To Airport (4km); Parque Nacional (12km) AC

J Gómez Beauvoir 2

὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆ 26 de Agosto de 26 Paz INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Casa de Tere B&B...... Freestyle...... Galeazzi-Basily B&B...... Hostal del Bosque...... Parque Yatana...... Turismo de Campo...... Ushuaia Turismo...... Antarctica Hostel...... Casa de Familia Zaprucki...... Iglesia de la Merced...... Legislatura Provincial...... Museo del Fin del Mundo...... Museo Marítimo de Ushuaia...... Museo Yámana...... Oficina Antárctica ...... Oficina Antárctica Post Office...... Boat Tours...... Casa Beban...... Club Andino Ushuaia...... Boutique del Libro...... Hospital Regional...... (Infuetur)...... Office...... Municipal Tourist National Parks Office...... Compañía de Guías de Patagonia.. C3 Instituto Fueguino de Turismo Instituto Fueguino

SLEEPING OV Andrade

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Onachaga Luis Vernet Luis 12 de Octubre de 12 USHUAIA

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4 De Caballero De Florencia To Cabañas Aldea Nevada (2km); Las Hayas (2.5km); Cumbres del Martial (7km); Glaciar Martial (7km) The Antarctic unit of the Tierra del Fuego government del Fuego The Antarctic unit of the Tierra tourist office is across from the gateway to the tourist pier. The friendly staff sells postcards and provides information on Antarctic trips. a modest display of artifacts There’s from the Hope Bay party of Nordenskjöld’s ill-fated 1901 expedition. The Oficina open daily when Antarctic is tour in port. ships are Oficina Antárctica de Turismo – Instituto Fuegino lonelyplanet.com SOUTHERN OCEAN at Yaganes andGobernadorPaz ratherthan at theeastern endof town.Use theentrance massive fuelspill). Informative pamphlets in (wrecked in1989,causinga inAntarctica Bruce in1904);and Argentina’s cued Nordenskjöld in1903 andalsorelieved Antarctic Français De Gerlache’s Scott’s dozens of examplesare Amundsen’s Amongthe themuseum. played throughout ship modelsanywhere intheworldisdis- ( p276 ) islandsare also on view. fossilsfromSnowHillandSeymour Antarctic are ofHope Bay ondisplayinseveral thecells. tion’s hutsonSnowHillIsland( p278 ) andat Some artifactsfromtheNordenskjöld expedi- photos thathave historicalinterest. Antarctic penguins,afur-sealclude stuffed pelt,and exhibitsin- looking formercells.Antarctic local historyandconvictlife, are inthegrim- oner each. Somedisplays,which highlight in 380cellsdesignedtoholdasinglepris- building onceheldasmany800inmates asapenalinstitutionin1947,theClosed entranceatYaganesthe base andSanMartín. 8pm) ( The excellent MUSEO MARÍTIMO DEUSHUAIA Channelandeast the Beagle of Ushuaia. descendents inPuertoWilliams,Chileacross the lastYámanalives withhermixed-race were reduced tojust300by1893,andtoday The 2500YámanaonIslaNavarino in1860 nearlywipedthemout. European settlement Fuegian peopleswholived inthearea before (well-labeled inSpanish andEnglish) onthe 8pm) ( A smallgem, thewonderful MUSEO YÁMANA today. there of Tierra delFuegoin1893andstillvisible of Albany figurehead from magnificent carved inthemainhallis and bank.Overhead lery), plusreplicas of anearlygeneral store (complete with aphotographicrogues’gal- aboriginal life andtheearlypenalcolonies It hasexhibitsonFuegiannaturalhistory, 168 % % Perhaps the bestcollectionof Antarctic 437481; admissionadult/studentAR$35/20; 422874; Rivadavia 56;admissionAR$10; 422874; Rivadavia is within the military base, ElPresidio, base, iswithinthemilitary features meticulouslycrafted exhibits OTENOEN • sui ••Ushuaia SOUTHERN OCEAN Discovery and ; Argentina’s , wrecked onthesoutheastern coast Pourquoi-Pas? Museo Marítimo deUshuaia Marítimo Museo ; Shackleton’s Belgica Uruguay ; Charcot’s ; Nordenskjöld’s Museo Yámana Museo Bahía Paraíso (which res- Endurance h Duchess h Fram 10am- 9am- Le ;

;

The mountain rangeThe mountain behindUshuaia, withits HIKING Activities times hosts art exhibitions. using partsordered fromSweden;itsome- & Pluschow;admissionfree; convict labor. de laMerced residence.nor’s official Thecentury-old (Provincial Legislature; 1894)wasthegover- AtMaipúhouses. 465, information onmanyof the city’shistoric distributesThe touristoffice afree mapwith HISTORIC BUILDINGS paths. forest family. After checking in,guestscanwalkthe encroaching byonedetermined development city blockof fromthe lengaforest preserved admissionfree; & 25deMayo; Yatana Part artproject, parturbanrefuge, PARQUE YATANA Fuego andUshuaia, anda gift shop. Tierraand postcardsfromAntarctica, del run 7km northwestof town.At this point (there are manyhiker shortcuts) totheski Martín westandkeep ascendingas itzigzags or ifyou’re upforanall-day hike, followSan glacier. upthehillfor AR$20, ataxi Catch the viewsmaybemore impressive thanthe of Ushuaia Channel;infact, andtheBeagle Glaciar Martial, panoramas withfantastic A heartyhike fromdowntownleadsupto Glaciar Martial ( In anemergency, the contact before leaving –andcheck inuponreturn. Club orthemunicipaltouristoffice ( p166 ) are stronglyencouraged toregister with the plenty of traildescription.Unguidedtrekkers mountain-biking guidebookwithmapsand and bilingualtrekking, and mountaineering 10am-2pm Sat) 12:30pm &2-9:30pmMon-Fri, andinoushuaia.com.ar inSpanish;JuanaFadul 50; many trailsare poorlymarked or unmarked. lakes andrivers, isahiker’s However, high. Sat &Sun) % at the entry desk. English abouttheshipmodelsare available On the2ndfloorisanexhibitionof stamps The 103, 22108)

(Fundación Cultiva; Club AndinoUshuaia onthewaterfront wasbuiltin1911

(San Martín &DonBosco) (San Martín . Casa Beban Casa h % h 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 4-8pm 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, Legislatura Provincial Legislatura

(cnr Malvinas Argentinas (cnr Malvinas 425212; cnr Magallanes 425212; cnrMagallanes

( 2:30-8pm Tue-Sat) % lonelyplanet.com wasbuiltwith 422335; www.club sells amap sells Civil Guard h Parque 10am- Iglesia is a