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Natural Treasures of the Csík Basin (Depresiunea Cicului) and Csík Mountains (Munţii Ciucului)

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Natural Treasures of the Csík Basin (Depresiunea Cicului) and Csík Mountains (Munţii Ciucului) Natural Treasures of the Csík Basin (Depresiunea Cicului) and Csík Mountains (Munţii Ciucului) László DEMETER 1, Anna-Mária CSERGŐ 2, Attila D. SÁNDOR 3, István IMECS 4, Csaba T. 5 VIZAUER 1 Sapientia University, str. Libertatii 1, Miercurea-Ciuc, Romania, [email protected] 2 Sapientia University, str. Sighisoarei 1C, Corunca, Romania, [email protected] 3 Babes-Bolyai University, str. Gheorghe Dima 37/17, Cluj-Napoca, Romania, [email protected] 4 Babes-Bolyai University, str. Gheorghe Dima 37/17, Cluj-Napoca, Romania, [email protected] 5 Romanian Lepidopterological Society, str. Gh.Bilascu nr. 48, Cluj-Napoca, Romania, [email protected] KEYWORDS: fauna, flora, glacial relics, hay meadows, high nature value farmland, local identity, protected species ABSTRACT In this paper we make an attempt to identify the characteristic natural features of two neighbouring, but geographically, ecologically and culturally distinct areas of the Eastern Carpathians. The Csík Basin is one of the large tectonic mountain basins of the Eastern Carpathians and the Csík Mountains are part of the Carpathian flysch. The most characteristic habitats of the basin are fens and other types of wetland habitats. The fens host a large number of boreal and glacial relic plant species and represent the southern limit of the global distribution of some plant and butterfly species. The other wetland habitats are important for specialized invertebrates, fish, amphibians and birds. Most wetlands, especially the main river and its floodplain were heavily degraded in the past five decades. The characteristic feature of the mountains are the secondary grasslands that were created by and for traditional agriculture in the past two to three centuries. Especially the higher altitude hay meadows have an outstanding plant species richness. We argue that although several habitat types have been severely degraded, significant parts of the area are still in a good ecological condition, having many natural features that are typical. We recommend the usage of these features by rural developers in shaping local identity for a more aware usage of natural resources and better integration of local society in the ecosystem. INTRODUCTION The Carpathian mountains are among Europe’s most biodiverse areas (Oszlányi et al. 2004). The Csík Basin (Depresiunea Ciucului) and Csík Mountains (Munții Ciucului) are two geographically, geologically and ethnographically distinct areas of the Eastern Carpathians with a total area of more than 3000 km2. While being one of the most important ethnographic zones of Transylvania, which has attracted many researchers in the past half century, its natural environment is not so well documented. The health of ecosystems is essential for human wellbeing. It is important that those human communities who live in close connection with the natural environment recognize the value of this relationship and become aware of its global significance. One way to make people more aware of the value of nature is to build nature into their local identity. The first step in this process is to identify those elements of the natural environment that are specific for a certain area. The goal of this paper is to summarize the characteristic natural features of this area based on the available literature and our own research. ETHNIC GROUPS, TOPONYMS AND TRADITIONAL CULTURE The central, western and southern part of the area, the Upper Tatros River catchment area, the Csík Basin and the Kászon Basin is inhabited by two Hungarian speaking ethnic groups, Székelys and Csángós, comprising more than 80% of the population (Varga 1992). The land east and north of this area is inhabited by a Romanian majority population. Significant cultural cross-fertilisation happened in the meeting zone of the two cultures (Hofer 2009). Most toponyms in the area where our studies were made are of Hungarian origin (see for example Csomortáni 2009) and this is how the local population uses them. Therefore, throughout this volume, for settlement names we use the Hungarian names with the Romanian version in brackets at the first mention, while for toponyms we use the Hungarian names with Romanian names in brackets for larger geographical units (rivers, mountains) at the first mentioning and the Hungarian names in the case of small geographical units (streams, peaks). (See a trilingual list of toponyms used in this paper and further in this volume in Table 1). The culture and history of Székelys and Csángó are well known and appreciated. These include living traditions, special folk costumes, dances, music, crafts especially related to wood usage, architecture (Paládi-Kovács 1988-2002). What is less well documented and appreciated is the living relationship between the rural population and land. The outstandingly high level of knowledge about plants and ecology of one community has just been studied (Molnár and Babai personal communication). This knowledge is less spectacular than other manifestations of folk culture. It is inherited, learned from childhood and developed through personal experience, being highly relevant in our times, when such a large percentage of human population lives detached from nature and the ecological reality. Much research has to be done to understand and help perpetuate this knowledge. Table 1. Main toponyms used in this paper and volume. Hungarian name Romanian name English version used in this volume Csíki-havasok Munții Ciucului Csík Mountains Csíki-medence Depresiunea Ciucului Csík Basin Csomád-hegység Munții Ciomad Csomád Mountains Gyimes Ghimeș Gyimes Gyimesfelsőlok Lunca de Sus Gyimesfelsőlok Gyimesközéplok Lunca de Jos Gyimesközéplok Hagymás-hegység Munții Hășmaș Hagymás Mountains Hargita-hegység Munții Harghita Hargita Mountains Jávárdi pataka, hegy Valea, Muntele Iavardi Jávárdi Valley, Mountain Kászoni-medence Depresiunea Casin Kászon Basin Pogány-havas Muntele Păgân Pagan Mountain Tarkő-hegység Munții Tarcăului Tarkő Mountains Tatros folyó Râul Trotuș Tatros River GEOLOGY, GEOGRAPHY AND LANDSCAPE The Csík Basin (Fig. 1, 3) is an Upper Pliocene tectonic basin. It is divided into three sub- units by less sunk parts of the base: the Upper, Middle and Lower Csík-basins (Kristó 1980). The basin floor is about 630-750 m above sea level, with gentle slopes and a wide, almost treeless landscape, which has evolved as a result of landscape alterations since the Middle Ages. Its characteristic features include a relatively wide floodplain, alluvial fans, fluvial terraces, many streams with relatively small flow and a large density of carbonated mineral water springs (Kristó 1980, Jánosi and Péter 2009). The whole area is part of the upper catchment area of the Olt river. Some authors refer to the whole upper catchment of the Olt river to the north of Tusnád gorge as Csík Basin, but geomorphologically the basin is the lowest part of the area. The limit between the basin and the surrounding mountains is not precise, it is represented by the meeting zone of the mountains and the alluvial sediment area that fills the basin (Schreiber 1994). Fig. 1. View to the South of Lower Csík Basin, with the Csomád volcanic mountains in the background. The mean flow of the Olt river is 7.9 m³/s (max 158 m³/s in 1970). The climate of the basin is temperate, with two subtypes: sub-alpine mountain (average annual temperature of 1-4ºC) and sub-alpine basin (5.5ºC) climate. The mountain climate is characterized by a longer winter, cooler summer, more wind and precipitation, that reaches 1200 mm on the western slopes of the mountain frame. The basin climate is much drier (600 mm annual precipitation); formation of fog and thermal inversion is characteristic especially during winter. The main wind direction is westerly and northwesterly (Kristó 1994). Fig. 2. View to the South from the northern parts of the Csík Mts. The Csík Mountains (Fig. 2, 3) are part of the flysch zone of the Eastern Carpathians (Băncilă 1958). The lowest altitude of the Csík Mountains in the studied area is about 680 m, while highest peaks are between 1300 and 1553 m. There are different opinions about the southwestern border of this mountain. We accept the limits proposed by Kristó (1975) (see Fig. 3). It has steep slopes, narrow valleys and a patchwork of forests and secondary grasslands. Forest cover is relatively low because of human impact, representing about 50% of the area. 65% of the hydrographic network belongs to the Tatros (Trotuș) river hydrographic basin, and 35% to the Olt hydrographic basin (Zsigmond 2006). The Tatros river has 3.52 m3/s mean annual flow at Gyimesbükk and this river and its tributaries have a highly fluctuating flow with a high frequency of floods (ANAS 2009. The annual average temperature is 6-7oC, annual precipitation 700-1000 mm (Zsigmond 2006). Fig. 3. Topography of the studied area and geographic limits of the Csík Basin and Csík Mountains. Fig. 4. Existing and proposed nature conservation sites (SCI and SPA) and proposed nature reserves in the area. FLORA The Csík Basin is rich in carbonated mineral waters and different types of wetland habitats like fens, mires, quaking bogs, wet meadows and temporary ponds. These, combined with the cold climate of the basin enhanced by thermal inversions, were favorable for the long- term survival of boreal plant species, presumably since the last Ice Age. Many are considered glacial relics in Romania (Pop 1960), and are nationally protected. Three of them: Marsh Saxifrage (Saxifraga hirculus), Arctic Dwarf Birch (Betula humilis) and Dwarf Spindletree (Euonymus nana) reach their southern global limit in this area. Other glacial relics include Siberian Leopard Plant (Ligularia sibirica), Moor-king (Pedicularis sceptrum- carolinum), Long-leaved and Round-leaved Sundew (Drosera anglica, D. rotundifolia), Tufted Loosestrife (Lysimachia thyrsiflora). Other boreal plants typical of wet meadows are Siberian Iris (Iris sibirica) and Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium coeruleum), Detailed first descriptions of the flora of peat fens and bogs of the Csík Basin were made by Nyárády (1929) and Pop (1960).
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