Malaysia Special :: X-RAY Magazine :: Issue 3

Sipadan Sarawak Sepilok Focus on Malaysia White Sea Russia Ice-Diving GLOBAL EDITION IAHD Jan :: Feb 2005 Diving Disabled Number 3 Ecology Fish Fashion Equipment King Poseidon

PARENTAL WARNING: Essick’s fine art Portfolio photography contains some nudity Todd Essick New Column by Leigh Cunningham

1 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 DIRECTORY X-RAY MAG is published by Blue Horizons Expedition & Dive Club Copenhagen, Denmark www.bluehorizons.dk www.xray-mag.com

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Peter Symes [email protected] contents MANAGING EDITOR & ART DIRECTOR Gunild Pak Symes [email protected]

TECHNICAL MANAGER Søren Reinke [email protected]

CONTRIBUTORS Michael Arvedlund Thomas Knutson Bill Becher Edwin Marcow Andrey Bizyukin Gary Myors Leigh Cunningham Amos Nachoum John Collins Garold Sneegas Arne Eriksen Erling Svenson Kai Garseg Nonoy Tan Karen Gowlette Holmes Tony White

X-RAY MAG is distributed six times per year on the Internet by Aquascope and Blue Horizons Expedition & Dive Club. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be repro- duced or transferred electronically in any form without written permission. Views and information expressed in articles are those of the individual author and are not necessarily representative of views held by X-RAY MAG or its affiliates.

Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and illustrations should PHOTO: PETER SYMES be e-mailed to [email protected]. Blue Horizons and X-RAY MAG accept no responsibility for unsolicited material sent to its office, nor is it liable for loss or damage to such materials. 20 43 61 66 72 plus... SUBSCRIPTION MALAYSIAN DIVE NEMO’S NOSE EQUIPMENT: SCIENCE: ICE DIVING EDITORIAL 3 X-RAY MAG International Edition in English is FREE. EXTRAVAGANZA by Peter Symes POSEIDON ROCKS FISH FASHION IN RUSSIA TSUNAMI & NEWS 5 To subscribe, go to: www.xray-mag.com by Peter Symes Ever wonder how by Andrey Bizukin by Michael Symes by Gunild Pak Symes EQUIPMENT 46 those fiercely ter- BOOKS,CDs,DVDs 50 NEWS ASSOCIATE Due to heavy tourist Dive manufactur- Is neon yellow the Get on your snow- traffic and destructive ritorial little clown ing giant, Poseidon, new black for high mobile and drive to PROFILE: IAHD 53 fishing practices by fishes can weave in gets a once over by brow fishes of the your dive site, chip a Fraser Bathgate locals, Malaysia has and out of the sting- Equipment editor, coral reefs? Science hole in the ice and COLUMN: Weight 56 had to close further ing tentacles of the Andrey Bizukin, who editor, Michael jump in! That´s ice- Leigh Cunningham anemones they call WRECK RAP 58 COVER PHOTO development in some visited the plant and Symes, discusses the diving at the White Strong current at Barracuda Point, areas. So, what can home? Learn how inspected the bold physics behind fish Sea where a new CONSERVATION: 60 Sipadan Island, Malaysia we still visit? Lots of Nemo lives symbi- and the beautiful in color and its impor- dive center, Nereis, Sharks Tales Photo by Peter Symes great sites in Sarawak, otically with the poi- dive technology. tance to the survival treats you to a cool WRECK DETECTIVES 64 Sipadan and Sepilock. sonous Medusa. of many fish species. adventure. PORTFOLIO: 80 Todd Essick 2 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 editorial Revisit them asap On the date of publication of this before us on our TV screens world streets were cleared and merchants issue, more than a month has passed wide, the media did indeed give completed the rebuilding of their since the tsunami hit Asia. Yet, the us an impression that much of the shops. It was truly fast work. numbers of human lives lost are still hardest hit coastlines around the Many in our industry have stressed climbing, and the daily increments Indian Ocean had experienced total the need to push on with trading with in the official body count just never destruction. However, the truth of the the businesses in the affected areas, seem to end. Numerous editorials matter is that in many areas such as and encouraging tourists and divers to have already been written about Thailand, with which we as divers are return as soon as possible. The locals the tragedy, and the blanket cover- much more familiar than the other say that recovering tourism is the best age given by the media has been hard hit regions of Indonesia and Sri medicine, not only for their own busi- comprehensive 24/7. There doesn’t Lanka, the majority of infrastructure nesses, but for the local population as seem to be much more to say, but and business activities remain intact... well. They all depend on tourism for the magnitude of this colossal disaster not to mention the dive areas are still their livelihoods. still fills our minds and souls with trepi- very dive-able. But with tourism down to barely a dation, making the significance of all Contrary to what trickle, many operators in other subjects pale in comparison. most media state, Give a man a fish the area are not doing Henceforth, this editorial is also about surveyors in Thailand well. So, we ask: Divers, the tsunami, and it also embraces a and other areas are and he will eat for a please go back there plea for help on behalf of the many discovering that most day. Teach a man to asap, and postpone buy- victims and survivors of the disaster. reefs beyond a kilom- fish and he will eat ing that new stereo for Help is not just the act of giving to eter from shorelines another year. You don’t charities. It is also about helping sur- experienced very little for a lifetime. really need it, do you? vivors regain their livelihoods, helping destruction. Most of But someone on the them get their businesses back. In the these dive sites are in Old Proverb (Confucius) other side of the world immediate aftermath of the catastro- good condition. And really needs your busi- phe, most travel agencies cancelled in some cases, there ness just to survive. At this packages to Asia, flights were cut, are actually improvements in clarity of point, tourism is the best aid you can and for a while, tourist interest fell the water and there are more fish! give. sharply. While this may be a natural Just a few days after the great Thailand has a very big tourism response to the tragedy, we must not waves hit the popular beaches industry. It’s economic health depends stay away too long. around Phuket, the resort areas were on this very important sector. To avoid As the events unfolded and flashed cleaned of debris, hotels reopened, diving in Thailand based on incorrect

3 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED ��

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information from the media is a big said, “We had 17, 000 tourists in hoods from the dive industry as well mistake. The best thing you can the country when this happened, as ﬁnancial aid and equipment for do to help the tsunami victims is to but today those numbers have expatriate dive instructors and dive come, enjoy a vacation and spend dropped by half. Our message to centres who lost everything in the your money. the tourists is, that it is time for them disaster. Now, Dive Aid is joining with It is tragic that the tsunami took to contribute to the recovery of the the Disaster Emergency Committee so many lives, and the world grieves Maldives,” he said. “The best way to and Diving Leisure of London to run their loss, but there are also so many do this is to visit us again. Enjoy your- an unique fund-raising event — a 24 who survived, who are struggling to self and help us in the process.” hour dive-a-thon. See www.diveaid. rebuild their devastated lives, and Indeed, some divers are going org.uk �� who need our help now. Without pro-active. Dive Aid was formed So, get involved, dive in Asia, help income from tourism, more lives and recently by a group of dive instruc- some people, get some sun and livelihoods in the affected areas are tors in the U.K. who met in Thailand have some fun in the process. at stake. and became friends. They have The Thai people are not the only organized this non-proﬁt organiza- Gunild & Peter Symes �� ones to ask tourists and divers to tion to raise support for some of Editors �� come back to visit. Mustafa Lutfi, the the communities in Thailand that X-RAY MAG Minister of Tourism in the Maldives had previously earned their liveli-

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4 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED After reports of destroyed coral reefs and uprooted mangrove forests Tsunami! began trickling in, the United Nations set aside $1 million to assess environ- Edited by mental damage following the Peter Symes tsunami in Asia Only small parts of the coral reefs affected After a month of various investigations into the effect of the Tsunami on the coral reefs, the emerging picture is that the tidal waves that devasted so many human lives only had a limited and very localized effect on the coral reefs. DETAIL FROM 1913 ENGRAVING. SOURCE: FRESHWATER AND MARINE IMAGE BANK On the other hand, marine experts have called for a prompt clean-up to save of water. “The big forces from coral heads that weighed localized and patchy. coral reefs and other marine lives. The worst damage seems to have been caused these waves come when they hundreds of tons were thrown At the same time, another by silt, debris and objects deposited on the reefs. get close to shore and into shal- hundreds of feet inland. And effect has been observed. It low water, and they build up, after the 1964 tsunami in Alaska, seems that there are more fish text by Peter Symes hile attention is clearly ecology at the University of they start to break, and that’s (see sidebar), a few reports on the reefs now than before. Wfocused on the human Melbourne, to Reuters. where the really severe energy noted that baby salmon were Whether this is an effect of the tragedy caused by the tsunami Deep-sea creatures are is,” added Michael Keogh. killed, although it’s unclear how tsunami, or what the cause is, in December, some dive opera- believed to have escaped “There is a huge natural many. But the recent quake remains unclear, but it is known tors and marine biologists are unscathed from the massive cost, but what it is, is still to was of immense magnitude, that many species stay closer reporting that from Sri Lanka to quake, while marine life from be determined,” said Lynne and the reefs were already to the reef when they feel Thailand, corals could be suf- shore to about a mile out to Hale, director of the global stressed from fishing, tourism, threatened. It may also be an focating under layers of mud sea suffered the worst dam- marine initiative for the Nature pollution and global warming. artifact of so many fishing boats and heaps of rotten fish. They age. Offshore environments Conservancy, who worked in As dive operators and being destroyed by the waves. report that beach fronts are were probably unaffected, Thailand’s Phuket Island and Sri researchers began send- The United Nations Develop- clogged, and rare turtle nesting and some biologists speculate Lanka for many years. A UN task ing reports to the World Fish ment Programme (UNDP) said sites have been washed out to that marine mammals such as force based in Geneva will now Center in Malaysia, an inter- a disaster assessment mission sea. Both countries were hard whales and dolphins swimming assess how environmental dam- national fisheries research found that, on average, just five hit by the tsunami setting off an near shore when the tsunami age threatens human health, center, it was, at first, a bleak percent of the coral reefs along environmental and economic struck may have sensed the and the toll on the ecological picture of the region’s treas- the coast and around the main setback that may take dec- strange seas and headed for resources which support both ured coastal waters. In Sri Lanka tsunami affected islands had ades or longer to recover from. deeper waters, where the giant tourism and the fishing industry. and Thailand, coral damage been damaged. UNDP said the “Some of the reefs around Sri waves were barely noticeable. Scientists don’t have much is reported to be severe. Trees reefs were littered with potential- Lanka and Phuket would likely historical data about the long crashed down onto the reefs, ly deadly debris and needed to be pretty severely damaged Damage The worst marine and short term damage tsuna- ripping many of the corals, be cleaned. They said the reefs because big waves hit them damage is concentrated 100 mis can cause on marine eco- some hundreds of years old, around the Phi Phi Islands and pretty close into shore. It’s going meters to a kilometer from systems. What is known is that apart. Many fish washed ashore. around the Similan, an archi- to depend on the size of the shore where the coastal eco- in 1883, when the Krakatoa vol- However, according to prelimi- pelago with world-class dive waves that hit,” said Michael systems were exposed to the cano exploded and sent a giant nary surveys, it seems that dam- sites, were particularly hard-hit. Keogh, professor of marine full force of the crushing wall tsunami washing over Indonesia, age to the reefs have been very

5 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Platong called for up to 200 volunteer divers to help save coral reefs damaged The facts and numbers by the tsunami. If divers managed to Tsunami! move fallen reefs back into an upright Department of Marine and Coastal position within a month, the coral should Resources, seven Thai universities and Similan Islands, Ko Bon, Ko Tachai, Surin survive and keep growing, Sakanan said. volunteer diving groups conducted and Richelieu Rock, and into the Mergui Platong also called for at least a tem- a rapid assessment program from Archipelago are not damaged in any porary ban on diving at three sites, December 30, 2004, to January 15, significant way,” said Alistair Beveridge, including the Chinese Wall, Christmas 2005, by using a survey method DOCT President, on 4 January. Point and Snapper Alley — all located developed by Thai researchers. “Some sites were affected slightly, oth- around the Similan islands. While many ers not at all. There is absolutely no truth reefs have suffered extensive damage, A total of 175 study sites were com- to rumours of heavy devastation and it is also clear that the reefs will eventu- pletely carried out, and the impacts of loss of marine life. We have had divers ally repair themselves. “A tsunami is not tsunami on coral reefs were catego- out diving since the waves and surge hit, a new phenomenon,” said Plathong. rized into five groups, i.e., no impact, and although there are some changes very low impact (1-10% of corals dam- to dive sites, mostly around Island No. 9 Andamans “We understand that aged), low impact (11-30% of corals in the Similans, all of the areas still offer serious damage has been caused to the damaged), moderate impact (31-50% world-class diving. “The dive sites in the coral reefs of the Andaman and Nicobar of corals damaged) and high impact Mergui Archipelago were completely archipelago by the tsunami,” said D.R.K (more than 50% of corals damaged). unaffected by the waves or surges.” Sastry, India’s Zoological Survey’s regional director in the Andamans. “Even Only 13% of the study sites were Phuket On Phuket Island, one popular strong cyclones or powerful currents can reported as “high impact.” 40% of the beach was covered with dead staghorn cause much damage to the reefs, so it sites had no impact. Percentage of coral, starfish, gulper eels, sea cucum- is only to be expected that such high study sites showing very low impact, bers and sea grasses. Many of the reefs, and fast wave action would ravage the low impact and moderate impact upon which fish and other organisms are reefs and cause extensive damage.” were 21%, 17% and 9%, respectively. dependent, may be covered in mud, and He said that the “Andaman coral reefs the corals which only grow about half a are very rich in spread and diversity, The preliminary findings: centimeter, or a fifth of an inch, a year, second only to the Great Barrier Reef in may be excreting mucus as a defen- Australia.” Branching corals are the most • Reef damage is considerably less than sive mechanism fragile and were likely to was expected and initially reported. FILEOTO BY PETER SYMES against the mud, “Diving operations, both have been the worst hit • Significant damage is patchy and expending energy by the tsunami waves. very localized. Aceh Information is still very scant, Thailand The tsunami hit six provinces that weakens the in terms of liveaboard “Whether the coral reefs • Damage followed no obvious pat- but one coral reef researcher recieved of Thailand along the coastline of the coral, stated a boats, day trips and cours- in the Andamans can tern. information from a local newspaper Andaman Sea, namely, Ranong, Phang researcher with the recover would depend on • Fish stocks appear to be benefiting that conditions of the coral reefs around Nga, Phuket, Krabi, Trang and Satun. World Fish Center. es, remain unaffected and the extent of the immedi- from reduced fishing effort. Weh Island near northern Aceh, is the The Department of Marine and Coastal unchanged. “Dive sites ate damage caused by • Exposed shallow fringing reefs sus- same as before the tsunami devastated Resources, seven Thai universities and Similan Thai ocea- the fast and high waves tained the most damage. the area. This is surprising considering the dive centres conducted a survey nographer, Sakanan along the coast, including and the inevitable post- • Coral with delicate and inticate the total devastation on land. Around shortly after the disaster. (See sidebar) Plathong, profes- the Similan Islands, Ko tsunami siltation of the structures were most susceptible to Banda Aceh, where most of the tsuna- They employed experienced dive mas- sor at the Prince of reefs,” Sastry added. impact. mi’s victims were found, a lot of deep ters to estimate damage done to rec- Songkhla University, Bon, Ko Tachai, Surin and To confirm whether • Similan Island no. 9 and Surin suffered sea fish were found on land. Other areas ognized dive sites. The areas surveyed said a preliminary Richelieu Rock, and into the topography of the most of the serious damage. do not seem to have been surveyed yet. were Surin Islands, Similan archipelago, survey showed Andaman and Nicobar • Other parts of the heavily damaged and the southern Phangnga Bay, the 20% of the reefs the Mergui Archipelago Islands has changed after sites are still considered diveable, with sites closest to Phuket. (See also the let- examined around are not damaged in the large-scale devasta- abundant fish life. It seems that there ter from Jeroen Deknatel, managing the Similan islands any significant way. tion of its landmass due • Famous sites such as Shark Point, are more fish on direction of Ocean Rover Liveaboards) were destroyed, to the tsunami, a team Richlieu Rock and Hin Daeng are the reefs now than It seems that most of the underwa- but about 60% of of surveyors and ocean untouched. before ter environment has been left largely the reefs had fallen Alistair Beveridge, President, study experts will under- • The reefs of Myanmar appear com- undamaged by the tsunami. “Dive over and need to Dive Operators Club of take a massive survey pletely unscathed. sites along the coast, including the be turned upright. Thailand, on January 4. in the Union Territory.

6 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CORAL_Dirt_Day_8.25x10.875.qxd 11/19/04 1:25 PM Page 1

Surveyor General of India, Dr. Prithvis suffered much less damage Tsunami! Nag, said that satellite pictures from the Indian Ocean tsu- beamed recently had only shown the nami than was initially feared. India The tsunami that wrought extent of damage on the settlement Jerker Tamelander, marine pro- destruction in many coastal areas in the islands, but could not pin- gramme co-ordinator of the World regions also caused dam- point the exact tilt or shift in landmass. Conservation Union in Sri Lanka, com- age to the marine ecology. “Satellite pictures have shown pleted a survey of reefs of Sri Lanka’s To study the exact nature and extent that many habitation areas have south-west coast, conducting a rapid of the devastation, India’s most been devastated by the waves’ assessment of environmental dam- prestigious scientific research ves- It’s called fury. But they cannot reveal the age to coral reefs and sea-grass sel, Sagar Sampada, is now on a tilt or shift in the topography. beds. He told BBC World Service’s ‘tsunami expedition’ to the coun- That needs in-depth survey and Science In Action programme that try’s east and west coasts, which research to be verified,” Nag said. the damage is very patchy. It varies were ravaged by the killer waves. Earth Day. a lot, from one area to another, and Sagar Sampada is a multi-pur- Maldives In the Maldives, the it varies a lot within a given area. pose fisheries and oceanographic eastern part of the islands was worst In comparison with significant research vessel. It left Kochi harbour hit, with dead coral and sand cover- destruction of terrestrial ecosystems, in mid-January to make an on-the- ing the runway at Hulule International the underwater coral has not been spot assessment of how the tsunami Airport. Some scientists said human so badly affected. Tamelander impacted the marine wealth, the That’s not to say activity in the coastal zone contribut- explained that much of the damage sea bottom and its living resources. ed to the immense damage on shore, had been caused by rubble deposit- The ship will also collect data on sea such as the building of tourist hotels ing on the coral. A lot of the mechan- organisms, sediment samples and too close to the water and tearing ical damage seems to have been check hydrographic parameters at we need to treat it out mangrove forests to put in shrimp caused by boats washing over coral the tsunami-hit coasts. On board, aquaculture farms throughout Asia. reefs, and in turn pushing over large is a team of 12 top researchers, But others say that while the lack of boulders. So, there is very site-specific oceanographers and scientists from mangrove forests probably exacer- damage — whereas on the broad across the country, headed by Dr. like Dirt Day. bated the destruction, it’s unlikely that scale, the mechanical damage is R. Damodaran. “It is the first major they would have slowed the tsuna- much less. research project to understand how mi’s enormous volume of water. More Some of the damage came from the sea behaved during the tsunami. on this discussion in “Mangroves and material washed out to sea from land, We will study the current state of Man, page 8). including motorcycles and TV sets, marine resources and hydrographic resulting in quite significant amounts characters of the sea, including dis- Sri Lanka Around the coast of of debris on several reefs. solved oxygen content, turbidity, salin- Sri Lanka coral reefs seem to have ity and nutrients.” ■

After more than thirty years, we thought it was time that the other 72% of the planet got some attention. Which is why we’re asking people to Dive In To Earth Day the week of April 18 to 24. So grab some friends and install a mooring, do a reef survey, or organize an underwater cleanup. Everybody into the water. For more information, visit www.coral.org or call (415) 834-0900.

SOURCE: GRAPHS FROM THE NATIONAL OCEANIC AND ATMOSPHERIC ADMINISTRATION/DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE

7 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Are clearing of the mangroves to blame? Unsubstantiated news, manipulation and speculation in disaster stories

Following the disaster, many Several statements about reef destruc- wild current. Highly popular divesites such members of the media were tion were made by so-called experts as Fantasea Reef are in fine shape. As on within hours of the disaster, before any- Phuket’s beaches, the tsunami, terrible as it quick to paint a very glum pic- one even had a chance to dive the was, seems to have had a ‘cleansing effect’ ture of the impact the tsunami islands and check out what was really and water was clear and calm everywhere had on the reefs and undergoing on. That started all the rumours with abundant fish life. water habitats. Too quick, too we are now fighting. As you can see, initial reports are A quote from one of many e-mails we encouraging and very different from premature and worse still, also received: “The coral around Thailand what the media would have us believe. Man & completely wrong. A leading must have been blown to bits by the tsu- Surely, more damage will be recorded member of the local dive indus- nami — how could it be otherwise?” The as data flows in but there is no reason try has this scathing comment: problem is, that many people do not for gloom. We will continue to update understand the mechanics. Tsunamis reef reports at the Divesite Reports page

PHOTO BY GUNILD PAK SYMES mangroves wreak havoc on shore and in shallow of our website as we learn more, and ment, but also help local communities Much to our dismay, there are many water, not in the deep! post dated pictures as soon as we have Many communities on the In- economically by providing forest prod- unsubstantiated news stories about the The Mergui Archipelago in Myanmar them. Meanwhile, please pass on to us dian Ocean benefited when ucts, including timber, poles, fuel wood ‘total destruction’ of Phuket’s coral reefs. was largely unaffected. Ocean Rover any news, good or bad, that you hear and thatch for houses,” the United Nations Even our own effort to bring a CBS team was there when the tsunami hit Phuket about our area, so we can investigate mangroves took the brunt of Food and Agricultural Organization to the Similans for a first hand look turned and did not experience any large waves, any wild claims and get the truth out on the massive waves, saving (FAO) said. The FAO said that, indirect- into a nightmare when they broke their only ‘weird’ currents. Based on our own the Internet. populations living further inland, ly, replanting also provides spawning promise and turned it into yet another dive-crew’s observations as the Ocean but vast areas of the swampy grounds and nutrients for fish and shellfish. “spectacular disaster” story. Our crew Rover traveled south from Myanmar How you can help We have received But mangroves should not be consid- and passengers were quoted out of con- back to Phuket, these are the facts as hundreds of messages of support, and coastal forests were destroyed ered a panacea to the threat of tsunamis text, and our underwater video footage we know them at this moment: we are touched by everyone’s concern. and need replanting, accord- or typhoons warns Mette Loyche Wilkie, an was used incorrectly. Never again! The Burma Banks: No damage. Richelieu Many of you have expressed a wish to ing to the United Nations. FAO expert on mangroves. Governments Rock: No damage contribute money, but worry that contri- should not be tempted to undertake but the strong current butions will simply be absorbed into the massive new plantations in the hope of moved some of the rub- machinery of some mega aid agency. Parts of India and Myanmar, where coral gaining better protection, as this could ble at the base of the People want to be certain that their reefs and mangroves remained intact, do more harm than good to humans and rock. Surin Islands: some donation reaches those who really need fared much better when the waves hit the environment. Narrow mangrove strips of the shallow, hard coral it. There are several reputable organiza- than the denuded coastlines of Thailand provide little protection and can easily be fringe reefs show dam- tions in Phuket setting up relief funds. One and parts of Sri Lanka, where poor beach- ripped up and hurled inland, adding to age. Ko Tachai: Some such organization is the Rotary Club of dwelling fishing communities cleared man- the hazards faced by nearby populations. damage in the shallows. Patong Beach. The fund aims to supply groves and started shrimp farms to feed The FAO also reflected the concerns of Twin Peaks undam- immediate, as well as long term finan- the huge Western demand for cheap environmentalists who have criticized pre- aged. Ko Bon: Minimal cial aid (e.g. scholarships) for children prawns. Mangroves can help protect vious plantation projects that have dam- damage to The Ridge. who lost their parents in the tsunami. coastal areas from future tidal waves, aged existing forest ecosystems in favour Similan Islands: Damage You can make a donation on-line at: and some governments now say they of a particular type of mangrove, which appears to be limited to www.rotarypatong.org/tsunamirelief1. will step up mangrove planting and con- may not be right for the local environ- the shallow part of some htm. ■ servation to this end. Mangroves, trees ment. The UN organisation does not rec- fringe reefs. A few of the whose tangled roots grow above ground ommend massive planting of mangroves rock formations had soft Jeroen Deknatel is the managing director in coastal swamps, are also a unique in areas where they would replace other coral removed by the of Fantasea / Ocean Rover live aboards. habitat for wildlife like migratory birds, valuable ecosystems, such as turtle nest- monkeys, lizards and turtles. “Replanting Photo by Ocean Rover’s in-house photo pro, Mark Strickland, ing grounds and sea grass beds. ■ would not only benefit the environ- of the reef at Similan Islands after the tsunami

8 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Imax movie Volcanoes of the Deep Sea is a giant screen science adventure that follows a team of scientists on the submersible Alvin News edited by as they dive to Peter Symes research mysterious hydrothermal vents on the mid- Adieu Alvin ocean ridge.

After being in operation for 40 first deep-sea submersibles, Cyana and Archimade, it helped years, and carrying out outstand- ible capable of carry- confirm the theory of plate tectonics and ing passengers, usually continental drift. Using the Alvin, scientists ing work, this famous deep-sea a pilot and two observ- found some 300 new species of animals. research submersible is finally ers. Its first untethered It discovered the first hydrothermal vents more than 99% of the sea floor to depths of going into retirement. dive was just 35 ft. After off the Galapagos Islands, and went on 6500 meters. Apart from being able to dive numerous upgrades to discover many others. It was also one much deeper, WHOI state that it will have Alvin, which was owned and operated and reconstructions, of the first submersibles to explore the Mid- several major improvements over Alvin: by Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Alvin could eventually Atlantic ridge. Thus, the new submersible will provide a (WHOI), was named after WHOI engineer dive to a depth of 14764 Among its non-scientific efforts, it Allyn Vine, who first envisioned a deep- ft i.e. nearly 5000 m. explored the Titanic, and it retrieved a sea research vessel in the 1930s. As Allyn Just as the space shut- hydrogen bomb after it was accidently • A faster descent speed, and faster Vine said back in 1956 “If you are going to tle is built to withstand dropped into the Mediterranean. submerged forward speed observe something, you can’t do better the near total vacuum But it was not all been plain sailing, so- • Better visibility and lighting for the than send real people to do it”. So what of outer space, Alvin to-speak. In 1968 Alvin broke free of the pilot and two observers, with five

better way to really observe deep subma- was built to withstand Photo: Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution cables used to lower it into the water, and view ports instead of the previous rine life than sending people down to the the high pressure of the Alvin being lauched from her mothership it sank more than 5000 feet to the bottom. It three depths to do so. ocean depths. It had SOURCE: oceanexplorer.noaa.gov remained there for 11 months before being • A variable ballast system that will Entering service in 1964, Alvin was the three portholes and a recovered. Fortunately, due to the very low enable the vehicle to hover to con-

Photo: Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution couple of mechanical The pressure sphere was slightly less than temperatures and anaerobic conditions, it duct mid-water research at multiple arms which enabled two meters in diameter, so there wasn’t was still in excellent condition, apart from depths anywhere in the water col- samples to be gath- much room for high jinks of any sort. It some damage occured during recovery. umn on a single dive ered for later examina- was capable of maneuvering around • Improved ergonomics and more tion on land. The titani- rugged bottom areas and could hover Replacement All-in-all, then, Alvin space in the 2.1-meter diameter per- um-hulled submersible in midwater to perform scientific tasks, was a superbly equipped vessel for oce- sonnel sphere for the pilot and two could remain below for or take still and video photography. For anic research. But even the tremen- scientists 10 hours under normal this purpose it was equipped with vari- dous capabilities of Alvin, based as they • The ability to carry heavier science conditions, although ous light sources enabling observations were on older technologies, were being payloads, and more storage space its life support system to be made in the otherwise pitch-black stretched in the search for new knowl- for samples would allow the ves- waters. It also had a number of sophis- edge of the oceans and their depths. • Improved sensors, tools and data sel and its occupants ticated electronic instruments for meas- Russia, France and Japan now have more collection systems to remain underwater uring magnetic fields, heat flows, etc. advanced vehicles. Therefore Alvin had • Improved maneuverability and for 72 hours. A typical to be replaced. The US National Science manipulation, and upgraded navi- dive lasted about 6 Claim to fame But what made Alvin Foundation, NSF, has thus announced gation systems hours, although a dive so famous? It has taken 12000 people on that it would fund a new vehicle to be • Higher speed data-communication to the bottom of the over 4000 dives, and it is said that Alvin operated, as was Alvin, by WHOI. with the surface ship, and via satel- Mid-Atlantic took only featured in nearly 2000 scientific papers. The replacement vehicle, to be com- lite to shore about 2½ hours. In cooperation with two French submers- pleted in 2008, will be capable of reaching Alvin being lauched from her mothership

9 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Photo: Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution news ... the never ending substory

Edited by Peter Symes New possibilites Alvin for sightseeing greatly expanded access for scientific by more simple Both Alvin and the new Pisces IV and the craft will be available for hire by the research in areas of the ocean which a u t o n o m o u s V are research vessels with very limited public and corparations, it has been built are as yet unexplored. One wonders submersibles. space for crew, and are certainly not to be used for serious research. what exciting discoveries will be made. An example intended for mere sightseeing. So, until This six-seater submarine is being oper- of this is the now, subsurface sightseeing has mainly ated by Plymouth’s National Maritime In the meantime While we are await- Serafina. been a privilege of the few. However, it Museum, and it expects fairly soon to ing with some impatience for Alvin’s has now becoming possible for ordinary be able to take bookings for submarine replacement, there are several other Serafina This tourists to experience directly for them- vessels available to carry out deep-sea is a 40 cm- Hawai‘i Undersea Research Lab’s submersible Pisces V being launched selves the wonders of the subsurface research. Among these are Pisces IV and long, self-con- from its support vessel R/V Ka‘imikai-o-Kanaloa. world. Pisces V. These three-person submersi- trolled subma- Two submarines, nearing completion bles are operated by HURL, the Hawai’i rine that can in China, have been built specifically Undersea Research Laboratory. They dive to around 5000 meters, and perform possibly be eaten by an aquatic preda- for underwater tourism. The submarines, can operate down to a depth of 2000 a range of scientific tasks. Designed by tor. ■ entitled Haitai One and HaitaiTwo, which meters. This operating depth is ideal for a team, led by Dr. Zimmer Uwe, at the can descend to a depth of 30 meters, the waters around the Hawaiian Islands Australian National University, it could can each hold 48 tourists, all of whom will where Pisces IV and V conduct the vast also be used in shipwreck recovery, and have a window through which to view majority of their operations. in search and rescue missions. Although the underwater landscape. The vessels The primary data that comes from the there are many advantages in being so will be delivered to Thailand. submersible dives are videos. Each sub is small, for example, being easy to pressu- In a slightly more modest fashion, a equipped with three digital cameras. At rise and handle, Dr Zimmer thought that mini-submarine, now under completion least one of the cameras is on at all times there might be one problem. It could in Plymouth, UK, will enable six passengers voyages out to Europe’s first artificial div- during a dive. to view the underwater world. It weighs ing reef. The museum created this artifi- In addition to video capabilities, 18 tonnes and is 11.2 metres long, and is cial reef when it scuttled the decommis- each submersible has two manipulator capable of diving to 300 meters. Although sioned frigate HMS Scylla in Whitsand Bay, arms. A skilled pilot can use the arms to Cornwall. Many divers collect samples, biological or geological, have already explored and store them in a mounted sample this new reef, but now basket. In addition to collecting samples, non-divers will be able the arms can be used for many other to take an hour-long trip tasks, including the placement of small around the wreck aboard temperature recorders into hydrothermal the submarine. The first vents, or to gently push the submersibles public tours will probably backwards when the pilot wants to avoid take place next year in stirring up sediments with the thrusters. the summer. Tickets have These two, like the Alvin, are very sophis- been seen announced at ticated machines, much of whose tech- £260 on the internet. ■ nology is used to support the lives of the operators in the oceanic depths. Despite Allyn Vine’s dictum, however, much useful undersea work can be carried out

An artists impression of the

Photo: Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution new tourist sub in Plymouth, Back in those days called Alicia

10 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED 11 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 TDI SDI ERDI PADI CMAS news New Results from Census of Marine Life

EditedEdited byby MichaelMichael SymesSymes PHOTOS: INSTITUTE OF GEOLOGICAL & NUCLEAR SCIENCES

FRESHWATER AND MARINE IMAGE BANK New life forms found in

Acanthicus histrix. Fort St. Joaquim in New Zealand deep sea volcanos the Distance. 1852 Scientists carrying out the scientists collected waters. the first deep-sea explo- geological and marine Dr. de Ronde and his ration of underwater life samples, including colleagues believe that volcanos near New colonies of thermophile up to 30 percent of the Zealand claim to have micro-organisms, for fur- creatures they have Thousands of New Species discovered new species ther analysis and study collected for study are of life-forms. in New Zealand. unknown, and that they Scientists and It was reported that may have future poten- Most of the Earth’s teem- The first systematic effort Atlantic Ridge. However, means, such as speci- marine biologists from scores of chimneys were tial applications in phar- ing biodiversity is micro- to map the marine bio- enormous areas of the mens catalogued and Geological and Nuclear seen, some of which maceuticals, bio-reme- sphere had resulted in world’s oceans have yet counted from trawls, or Sciences Ltd (GNS), led were six metres tall, each diation of contaminat- bial in nature, particu- the discovery of a quar- to be evaluated. tagged and tracked by Dr Cornel de Ronde, containing thousands of ed sites, and biomining. larly in the oceans where ter of a million new spe- In CoML’s latest progress organisms, some idea as conducted the first ever tonnes of metal. Fluids at The Japan Agency for microorganisms account cies, and 50 new marine report it is stated that to how life operates in probe of the Brothers 300°C were flowing out Marine-Earth Science for more than 90 percent species are being local- some 13000 new marine the depths is now starting volcano, situated at a of chimneys at one of and Technology, which ised every week, of which species have been dis- to emerge. Thousands of depth of 1800 m some the sites, forming dense is owned by the Jap- of the biomass. CoML, the perhaps only two or three covered in the past meters below the surface 400 km northeast of black plumes. Iron, cop- anese government, Census of Marine Life, is are fish. year. Most of our present there appears to be a White Island. per, lead and zinc were paid most of the costs a growing global network Since CoML’s last knowledge comes from large scale circulation of The 18-day expedi- present among the of the expedition. ■ of researchers in more report a year ago, there the first 100 m and we concentrated life. tion was conducted in minerals in the chim- has been a tremen- know relatively very little Our knowledge of life a Japanese-operated neys. Biological samples than 70 nations engaged dous increase in our about what lies deeper. in the oceans seems set Shinkai 6500 submers- taken included shrimp, in a ten-year initiative to knowledge of life in the If a fish is caught below to be increased in a radi- ible, in association with scale worms, crabs, eel- assess and explain this oceans. For example, 2000 m the chance of it cal way in the next few the Japan Agency for fish, limpets, and tube 80000 specimens were being a new species is 50 years. We look forward Marine-Earth Science worms, the latter being diversity, distribution, and recorded in just one sur- times more likely. to further reports from and Technology. It the first time the species abundance of marine life vey over the relatively From information gath- CoML. ■ involved four 8-hour dives had been recorded in in the oceans. small area of the Mid- ered by a number of at two sites, in which New Zealand territorial

12 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED news

Edited by Michael Symes PHOTO: DIGITAL FISH LIBRARY Proposal for the first digital fish library

PHOTOS: NATIONAL MARINE SANCTUARY FOUNDATION Many of the things that make sharks such efficient killers, their their keen sense New Museum to preserve Great Lakes’ treasures of smell, for example, are hidden from view. Studying the internal anatomy of Building has now commenced on wheelers to 20th-century steel-hulled sharks has meant opening the animal up a visitors’ center at the Thunder Bay steamers. It is one of 13 national marine in laborious and destructive dissections. sanctuaries that encompass more than However, many specimens are simply National Marine Sanctuary and 150,000 square miles of ocean and Great too valuable to dissect, and little is known Underwater Preserve, near Alpena, Lakes natural and cultural resources. about them beyond photographs and Michigan. The center is located in a former paper basic scientific information. mill undergoing renovations. The 20,000- But in a newly proposed project, Jeffrey The Thunder Bay National Marine square-foot facility will preserve and high- Graham and other marine biologists from Sanctuary and Underwater Preserve light the maritime heritage of the Great Scripps Institute of Oceanography have (NMS/UP) encompasses 448 square miles Lakes and the shipwrecks of Lake Huron’s teamed up with radiologists to scan fish of northwest Lake Huron, off the northeast Thunder Bay, as well as doubling as a with MRI machines, high-tech diagnostic coast of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula. The research site. It will feature a discovery tools typically used in medicine. While landward boundary of the sanctuary/ center with more than 8,000 square feet conventional CT scans are more effec- preserve is marked by the northern and of exhibits on the Great Lakes, shipwrecks, tive at imaging bones, magnetic reso- southern limits of Alpena County, and the archaeology and maritime history. The nance imaging creates detailed compu- sanctuary/preserve extends east from the center will also have an auditorium for ter images of soft tissue, blood flow and lakeshore to longitude 83 degrees west. showing films and live video feeds from brain activity, providing an unparalleled The largest city in the vicinity is Alpena. Thunder Bay shipwrecks, an archaeo- view inside the body. The Thunder Bay National Marine logical conservation laboratory and an The beauty of MRI is, it gives a fairly Sanctuary and Underwater Preserve was education resource room. In addition, rapid detailed structural analysis, and established in 2000 to protect an estimat- the laboratories, archives, dockage for you still have the specimen intact when ed 200 historically significant shipwrecks, research vessels, and a field station for you’re done. That is critical to Scripps’ vast ranging from 19th-century wooden side- visiting scientists will make the center and irreplaceable collection of marine a regional research facility, not just for organisms, which holds more than 2 mil- historians and archaeologists, but also lion preserved specimens amassed over for other scientists working to ensure the a century of exploration. health of the Great Lakes. This new project, called the Digital The center is expected to draw 70,000 Fish Library, aims to scan representa- visitors a year. ■ tives of every one of the 482 families of fish known to science. The Marine You can help further the mission of the Vertebrates Collection at Scripps holds Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary specimens from 455 families. and Underwater Preserve The project’s initial goal is to scan 1,000 and all our national marine specimens and place the three-dimen- sanctuaries by support- sional images on a Web site accessible to ing the National Marine researchers and students alike. Sanctuary Foundation! A preliminary model for the site can be Click on the logo found at www.digitalfishlibrary.org. ■ www.mikeball.com

13 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED news lakeville.se

Edited by Michael Symes

A piece of wood riddled with holes created by wood-bor- ing bivalves called shipworms. These organisms cause a tre- mendous amount of damage to marine timbers such as

docks, pilings and ship planks ZOOLAB: WWW.BIOWEB.UWLAX.EDU/ZOOLAB

Baltic archeological remains threatened by shipworm

Shipworm has entered the underwater cultural environments, prima- launched in 1837, which sank in 1856. It Baltic Sea, and if it continues rily well-preserved shipwrecks in northern lies intact today, at the bottom of Lake Europe. One of the wrecks is the Dutch Vättern. The E. Nordevall played a central to spread, it can destroy irre- snaubrigg Vrouw Maria, which sank in the role in the discussion about, and the devel- placeable shipwrecks and Finnish archipelago in 1771. It is still fully opment of, methods for bringing old ship- other marine archeological preserved, with its rigging intact. Although wrecks back to life. One way of making remains along the coast of it has not yet been attacked by shipworm, a well-preserved shipwreck of advanced a kogg from the 13th century off the age available to the general public, is to Sweden, according to pro- German Baltic coast has been. Scientists build a full-scale model of it, and so a rep- fessor of marine archeol- have established that the wreck has been lica is now being built of the E. Nordevall. ogy Carl Olof Cederlund, extensively damaged by shipworm, Teredo The aim is to ply the routes of the original Stockholm. Navalis. ship with the replica, carrying passengers. Because the Baltic has previously been It might also be possible to display the free of of shipworm, vessel at the bottom of Malaysia, ena floweringblomstrande economy ekonomi and och culture kultur Prof. Cederlund is the Swedish representa- it was possible to find the lake to the public. Malaysia äris ena nation nation marching på frammarsch. forward Endast toward i färgstarkathe future. Onlygrupper in colorful – erbjuder Malaysia, besökaren do you en unik get upplevelsethe opportunity med ﬂ toer tive in an EU project that has now deter- the Wasa and other Prof. Cederlund thought experience the full diversity of Asia all on one plate. Malayans, Chinese, Indians and other ethnic groups offer the Malaysia får du möjligheten att uppleva hela Asiens mångfald, sevärda platser än någon annan stans på jorden. Ljud, djurliv, mined the spread of shipworm to the Baltic large wooden vessels it possible that modern visitor an unique experience with more places worth seeing than any other region on earth. Sounds, animal life, for the first time. in excellent condi- digital technology could scentsallt på enand plats. tastes Malaysier, — experience kineser, the indier whole och of övriga Asia etniska in Malaysia.dofter och smaker – upplev hela Asien i Malaysia. The three-year EU project is called tion after centuries at be used to transmit direct Monitoring, Safeguarding and Visualizing the bottom. It is not images of the ship from North European Shipwreck Sites, abbrevi- yet known how ship- the bottom of the lake ated MoSS. It is organized and executed worm has managed to a nearby museum. ■ by partners in Finland, Sweden, Denmark, to enter the Baltic. the Netherlands, the United Kingdom, and In Sweden, the EU The project Web page is: Germany. project has focused www.mossproject.com The six project partners have now report- on the steam wheel-

ed on the protection and preservation of er E. Nordevall, Huvudkontor: Kuala Lumpur Tel: +60-3 2615 8188 Fax: +60-3 2693 5884 RegionaltMain office: kontor: Kuala Stockholm: Lumpur Klarabergsgatan Tel. +60.3 35, 2tr2615 Box 1318188 101 Fax: 22 Stockholm +60.3 2693Tel: 08 245884 99 00 Fax: 08 24 23 24 The Vasa E-Post:www.malaysiatourism.net; [email protected] www.tourism.gov.my Hemsida: www.malaysiaturist.net ; www.tourism.gov.my PHOTO: THE VASA MUSEUM

14 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED news

Edited by Michael Symes FRESHWATER AND MARINE IMAGE BANK Do seismic tests

and sonar affect whales? Baleen whale. Engraving by G. Clerc-Rampal, 1913 Royal Navy unveil new sonar by objects rather than emitting sonar entated. It was stated by the Ministry of the capacity to disturb, displace or even until more research is completed. Senator system The Royal Navy has unveiled pulses. The new technology had thus Defence that a full Environmental Impact directly physically harm animals. Low- Allison says her most immediate concern a new low-frequency sonar which, it is been billed as being whale and dolphin- Assessment had been carried out during frequency noise, because of its ability is the naval exercises that will soon be stated, will not injure sea mammals. The friendly, but tests have revealed it can still the development of the new sonar, and to travel great distances, could cause carried out close to the Great Barrier sonar detects the frequency of near- cause sea mammals to become disori- that the initial results had not produced widespread impacts that are also likely to Reef. any evidence that the sonar caused an be difficult to detect. Recent correlations In recent years mass whale strandings impact on marine wildlife. However, the between naval activities and strandings have followed naval sonar manoeuvres tests had shown that permanent dam- of deep-diving beaked whales is a signifi- in Greece, the Virgin Islands, the Bahamas age could be caused to the hearing cant concern that should be reviewed. and the Canary Islands. And in July the of sea mammals such as whales if they International Whaling Commission found remain within 500 metres of the ship for 30 Europeans and the US push to ‘compelling evidence’ that high-intensity minutes while the sonar was being used. halt sonar A resolution has been sonar was harming whales and leading Defence Minister Lord Bach has admit- approved by the European Parliament, to some mass strandings. ted that tests had shown that the sonar which calls on its twenty-five member has the potential to be harmful to marine states to stop deploying high-intensity Seismic halt urged for whales mammal. He said the new system would active naval sonar until more is known After several whale strandings near have to be switched off when whales about the harm it inflicts on whales and Australia recently, it was suggested that and dolphins were detected nearby, other marine life. Although the resolution seismic tests carried out in oceans to and areas known to be natural habitats does not require member navies to stop search for gas and oil should also be for the animals would be avoided by the using ‘active’ sonar, it concludes that a stopped until the whale migration sea- warships. growing body of research suggests that son had ended. Conservationists have the widespread use of loud sonar has raised concerns about the impact of Conservation groups’ concern caused some whales and other animals underwater seismic testing on marine life Wildlife conservation groups, however, to beach themselves. after more than 150 whales and dolphins have expressed concerns that the use of The US Senate has also passed a motion died in strandings in Tasmania and New sonar in general leads to sea mammals calling for the Federal Government to Zealand this week. (but see ‘Mass whale such as whales and dolphins becoming suspend any intense ocean noise in beachings in Tasmania’). Cetaceans may disorientated, causing them to become Australian waters which has the potential experience gross damage to ears, dam- beached. to damage marine animals. Democrats age to body tissue, masking of commu- The Whale and Dolphin Conservation leader Lyn Allison thinks the mass strand- nication, interference with their ability to Society think that the risks from power- ings should create enough concern for acoustically interpret their environment, WWW.ROYAL-NAVY.MOD.UK ful sonars to marine wildlife are currently the Government to ban the use of high- and also interference with food finding.■ HMS Somerset, Type 23, Duke Class Frigate unclear, but marine noise pollution has intensity naval sonar in Australian waters

15 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Mass Stranding of Pilot whales, news Sandy Cape, Tasmania

Edited by Michael Symes PHOTO: PARKS AND WILDLIFE SERVICE Mass whale beachings in Tasmania Tasmania is notorious for whale mass waters. More fish came to waters around stranded whales form part of same family. strandings, with pilot whales and sperm Tasmania, drawing deep ocean dwell- Tissue samples from the pilot whales that whales regular victims. About a year ers, such as pilot whales, closer to shore died on the beach at Opoutere indicate ago, 110 long-finned pilot whales and 20 in search of prey. A noticeable peak that they may all have been members bottlenose dolphins died on a beach in in strandings is linked to the winds, so it is of a single family. Furthermore, samples Tasmania’s far south-west. And in June, expected that that these events could taken from another mass stranding on 2004, four sperm whales died on a beach occur for the next year or so. Stewart Island last year, found that almost near Strahan. all the animals were related through the The biggest recorded mass strand- Man-made causes maternal line. ing involved 1000 pilot whales on the The appearance of a naval fleet in near- It is believed that the family groups Chatham Islands in 1918, and the biggest by waters has also raised concerns about might come ashore to help family mem- in more recent years affected 450 of the a possible man-made cause. A spokes- bers in distress. If an animal gets in trouble same species on Great Barrier Island in man was unaware if high power active it will call for help and 1985. An average of 80 to 85 pilot whales sonar was in use by any of the ships, but other animals will come are stranded on New Zealand coasts said that anyway no scientifically demon- round and support it. alone every year, and there was usually strable link had been found between Therefore, a single pilot about one mass stranding a year. Australian sonar and stranding of whales. whale getting stuck in the More recently there have been two However, research into the effects of mili- sand might be enough mass strandings of pilot whales at oppo- tary sonar technology and seismic activ- to bring the whole family site ends of Tasmania when more than ity was important, because there was to its aid, stranding all of 116 whales and bottle-nosed dolphins evidence that these activities affected them. They could have became stranded at King Island, and marine life. Yet we have little idea on how been chasing prey when the day after at Maria Island. And in New whales use sound to navigate. they became disoriented, Zealand, 55 pilot whales from a pod of 73 Mass strandings in Tasmania nearly or they might have been have died on the Coromandel Peninsula. always involved pilot whales who live off pursued by such preda- the continental shelf and rarely goes close tors as killer whales. Often What causes mass strandings? to shore. Unlike baleen whales, such as whales are also trapped humpbacks, pilot whales used echo loca- in the hooked corners of Winds theory An analysis of more than tion to navigate which would provide poor long beaches by falling 300 strandings in the region over the past navigation on shallow, sloping beaches. tides. 80 years reveals that a disproportionate But do these theories miss the mark? So, it seems that, until number of whales and dolphins beached Records show that whales have been we have a much bet- themselves every 10 to 12 years. University stranding in Tasmania for more than 100 ter understanding of of Tasmania scientists therefore predicted years, long before plastics, pollution, seis- how whales navigate, that whale strandings were more likely as mic testing or military sonar technology. we cannot really resolve the predominant west winds over the This would suggest that the current theo- the question of why mass Southern Ocean increased in strength ries miss the mark, and that the strandings whale strandings occur. on a roughly decadal cycle, with the could be due to the whales themselves. To help, visit: www.wild- winds bringing colder, more nutrient-rich It several cases it has been found that caretas.org.au ■

16 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Edited by Michael Symes

17 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED news

Edited by Michael Symes Triumph & Tragedy at Boesmansgat Record-breaking diver dies under recovery attempt at 271m WWW.XTREMEDREAM.ORG WWW.XTREMEDREAM.ORG

January 2005, tragedy: David Shaw dies under attempt to recover body of another diver October 2004, triumph: Verna van Schaik, first woman to dive 221 m on open circuit

Boesmansgat in Northern Cape Boesmansgat poses the ultimate Macabre find Three days province, South Africa, is the challenge to scuba divers. At later, Dave Shaw, an Australian largest natural cavern of its kind Boesmansgat in October 2004, deep-water diver, set a new in the Southern Hemisphere. It Verna van Schaik, from Gauteng, deep water record at the is an ancient watering hole for became the first woman to dive same place. He reached a Bushmen roaming the Kalahri 221 meters on an open circuit depth of 271 meters in a nine- Desert. It is one of the most scuba. She established a world and-a-half hour dive, using famous inland diving spots, record in speleological diving rebreather equipment. The pre- attracting divers from far and for women as well as altitude vious world record for a dive wide, where many dive records dive. The long ascent back to of this nature, using rebreather have been made. But the the surface required 40 decom- equipment, was 242 meters. many record attempts have not pression stops that totalled The depth reached would been without their victims, for five hours and 27 minutes. have been greater, but Shaw

18 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED to 60 meters, Dreyer is thought to have left behind by Shaw, and when the experienced deep-water blackout, and line attached to Dreyer was pulled thereafter, dropped fast to the bot- up, both bodies appeared some 20 tom without any chance of rescue. metres beneath the surface. It seems that Shaw had became entangled Recovery of Dreyer’s remains in the nylon line he had attached to A recovery of the remains of Deon Dreyer’s remains. Under normal circum- Dreyer was to be carried out in January stances, an experienced diver could by Dave Shaw himself – an intimidat- easily have cut himself free, but the ing and dangerous task under any cir- effort required to do so at 271meters Verna van Schaik and Dave cumstance. A special block-and-tackle may have proved too much. Shaw were members of the same had been constructed to bring Dreyer’s The video footage shot by Dave Shaw group, . www.xtremedream.org remains and cylinders to the surface. indicates that he was dead about 25 Shaw would have only five minutes at minutes after he had entered the cave. the bottom to cut the two cylinders and heavy battery pack from Dreyer’s div- Postmortems on divers’ bodies abandoned his attempt to dive deeper ing suit. These would then be recovered The bodies of Dave Shaw and Deon when he apparently found the skeletal by attaching them to a steel cable and Dreyer have been taken to the state remains of Deon Dreyer, a diver who hoisting them to the surface. A team of mortuary in Bloemfontein for postmor- died in the cavern in 1994. The remains eight technical divers and two police tem examinations. It was stated that were lying on the uneven bottom of officers would assist in bringing Dreyer’s Dave Shaw, the diver the results of these postmortems could the cave, with the diving mask and fins body to the surface. It was intended Photo from his own homepage be available in a week to ten days. still in place. The cylinders had been that Shaw would bring the skeleton in In addition to the postmortems, the trapped in the mud, so he could not the diving suit to a depth of 150 meters commenced his ascent, and there cylinders and battery of Dreyer’s equip- lift the skeleton in the diving suit. As he where three other divers would then were no indications, either, that he ment will be examined to establish if was already one minute over his maxi- bring it to the entrance of the cave. was in any trouble. So, Shirley con- he died due to equipment failure. mum bottom time, he tied off his reel After a meticulous planning of safety tinued down to 250 metres to look PHOTO: XTREME DREAM UNDERWATER EXPEDITIONS to the remains so that they could be measures, Shaw began his descent at for Shaw. At around 20 metres from Post Scriptum: found again, and began his ascent. 6:15 am on the 8th ofJanuary. To pro- Shaw’s lights, the computers controlling The post mortem concluded that an Dreyer disappeared in December vide a record of the recovery mission, Shirley’s breathing equipment appear excessive build-up of carbon dioxide THE STORY OF BUSHMAN’S CAVE 1994 while being part of a support crew Shaw mounted a video camera on his to have imploded. Beginning to suf- caused the black-out and death of for SA Cave Diving Association divers helmet. He took only ten minutes, half fer from decompression sickness, he Dave Shaw. Shaw’s equipment was Boesmansgat, or Bushman’s Cave, is a whose target was to dive 150 meters. the planned time, to descend the 271 had to return to the surface and was also inspected, and his gas mixtures natural dolomite freshwater sink hole of On the way back up, at between 50 metres, to reach Dreyer’s remains. placed in a decompression chamber. analysed. Footage from Shaw’s video magnificent proportions. It lies on Mount A second diver, Don Shirley, A body bag should have appeared camera showed that Shaw started work Carmel farm, 55 km south of Kuruman, on followed some 13 minutes after about 80 minutes. After waiting to free Dreyer’s body, but aborted the the road to Daniëlskuil and Kimberley, in later, having expected that a further ten minutes, a second sup- effort when he had not succeeded after Northern Cape Province, South Africa. Shaw would have cut Dreyer port diver, Peter Herbst, who had not six minutes. During ascent he became Upon arrival for the first time, visitors from his tanks, placed his found Shirley at the pre-arranged 80 entangled in the line used to mark the are impressed by the spectacular sight remains in a body bag and meter mark, descended to the 120 body, and while attempting to free him- of the sink hole from approximately 70 started his ascent. However, meter mark, where Shirley informed him self, his breathing became increasingly metres above. The top of the sink hole is there appeared to be no that Shaw was not coming back up. laboured before stopping about about 100 metres in diameter. From the indication that Shaw had Later, divers retrieved equipment 22 minutes into the dive. ■ top, the water appears to be green and not very diveable, but when one reaches the water’s edge, the water turns out IANTD, South Africa writes: sequently became entangled in the surface, at a depth of 264 meters. As to be crystal clear under the canopy line previously used to mark the body. he had enough gas reserves, the ques- of green weed. Aquatic cave amphi- David successfully reached his objec- In the ensuing effort to free himself, he tion is – why? The evidence suggests pods and other interesting creatures are tive, but was unable to recover the succumbed to the combined effects that David suffocated. Overfilling of found both in and out of the water. No Dave Shaw, the pilot body of Deon Dreyer at the bottom of carbon dioxide build-up and nitro- his rebreather appears to have pre- light penetrates its mysterious depths. Photo from his own homepage of Bushman’s Gat due to a number gen narcosis. It is certain that David vented him from exhaling properly. The sink hole is potentially dangerous, of unforeseen practical factors. He died due to drowning after a loss of and should only be dived by experi- appropriately aborted the attempt consciousness underwater, approxi- The statement in its entirety can be read enced divers with some caving and sink at 6 minutes – as planned – but sub- mately 22 minutes after leaving the at http://www.iantd.co.za/home.html. hole experience.

19 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED From Langkawi to Sipadan Glimpses of Malaysia

PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ Text by Peter Symes Photos by Michael Aw Peter Symes Gunild Pak Symes & Malaysia Tourism PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’

Depending on your yardstick, or which encyclopedia you consult, Malaysia boasts a collosal coastline — 4,675 km. This area includes 2,068 km for Peninsular Malaysia and 2,607 km for eastern Malaysia, which covers the northern half of the island of Borneo. Among these long coastlines, from Langkawi to Sipadan, we find some of the world’s best and most renowned dive sites.

20 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 PHOTO: MICHAEL AW Glimpses of Malaysia or most divers, Malaysian diving means Fthe island of Sipadan off Sabah in Borneo — even novices tend to get that glazed look on their faces when the word “Sipadan” is uttered. Sipadan is still a true gem, but the environmental restraints, Malaysia! which always meant that the island had limited space to offer, have recently been increased. Authorities have forced a number of dive operators to vacate their structures on the island. Sipadan, Mabul and Layang Layang are all famous names, but maybe the time has come to PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ take a further look at what Maylasia has PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ to offer? Aside from so many new dive Spa at Pangkor Laut Resort Pitcher Plants Sunset at Tanjung Rhu River, LangKawi Details of decoration on fishing boat sites just waiting to be discovered, there are also an incredible amount of exciting adventures above water. This country boasts cultural and natural riches like few Thailand other territories. While this magazine may be primarily Kudat for divers by divers, diving is not just diving Layang- wrecks anymore. It would be gross negligence not GRAPHIC: PETER SYMES Layang Mantanani Pulau Lankyan to take at least a brief look at a few of the Tunku Abdul Pulau Perhentian cultural and land excursions that can be Rahman Park conveniently and easily included in a dive Langkawi & Pulau Redang Pulau Tiga Pulau Payar trip to the region. Be it her dense, mysterious Labuan rainforests once haunted by head-hunters Pulau Tengol Sabah and now the home of proboscis monkeys, Pulau West Miri hornbills and of course orang-utans, or Pinang Malaysia the exciting, dynamic capital of Kuala ( 11 states) Mataking, Lumpur, where modernity rubs shoulders East Pular Kapilai, with tradition and where you can shop till Sembilan & Talang Malaysia Mabul & PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ Tangjung Salang Sipadan you drop before exploring the vibrant res- Pulau Jarak Datu Kuala Lumpur at night taurant scene, or the white sand-fringed Pulau Tioman Sarawak resort islands of Penang, Langkawi and Kuala Pangkor, with villas built on stilts over Lumpur the water in the manner of a traditional Borneo Malay fishing village — all over Malaysia Pulau Aur you’ll find coral reefs, tropical jungles and friendly locals who speak English as well as Malay. Borneo is also home to Mount Singapore Indonesia Kinabulu, the region’s highest summit. In this way, Malaysia can be likened to a treasure trove of adventures. Some gems are already found and polished while others are still waiting to be discovered. It is so hard to choose — there are so many Overview of the main dive destinations within good dive operators in the area that it is Malaysia and the sites described in this article impossible to be equally fair to everyone

who deserves an overview here. PHOTO: PETER SYMES Orang-Utan in the Sepilok reserve PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ 21 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Malaysia has a tropical Glimpses of Malaysia climate with an average of

PHOTO: PETER SYMES 32°C and water temperature 28-30°C all year round. The best diving season on the west coast is from October- The West many other smaller islands. up Malaysia’s oldest Marine marine life. Studies by the November to January- Coast Langkawi And you can guess that Park sanctuary, have been ‘World Wide Fund for Nature’ & Pulau Payar the beaches are a huge protected since 1985. The (WWF) showed diverse marine February, exactly the opposite Langkawi, a cluster of 99 attraction. The most popular park has been called a life including 36 genera of to the east coast where the islands separated from beach hangouts in Langkawi shining example of how hard corals, 92 other marine mainland Malaysia by the are Pantai Cenang, Burau proper conservation, good invertebrates and 45 genera season starts again in March. Straits of Malacca, is a district Bay and Pantai Tanjung Rhu. management and the of fish. of the state of Kedah in Pantai Cenang is the more promotion of eco-tourism Northern Malaysia and lies happening place where you can safeguard a healthy approximately 51 km west of can swim, water ski, jet ski, environment for future Kedah. Only four of the 99 do some sailing, boating and generations. islands are inhabited — Pulau other water activities. Burau At Pulau Payar, the largest Langkawi (the main island), Bay and Pantai Tanjung Rhu of the four islands, you will find Pulau Tuba, Pulau Rebak and have a more relaxed pace. the Marine Park Centre which Pulau Dayang Bunting. Dive-wise, however, it is the was set up and operated PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ 1 Langkawi is a duty-free nearby Pulau Payar Marine by the Fisheries Department. shopping haven offering an Park, about 19 nautical miles If you are not into water attractive range of local and south of Langkawi Island activities, check out the imported goods for those and 32 nautical miles north two hiking trails that have with a yen, dollar or euro for 2 of Pulau Pinang, that holds been constructed to enable shopping. Since Langkawi is the greatest attractions. visitors to explore and enjoy an island, it is surrounded by These islands, famous for the breathtaking views of the beautiful beaches and also varied and colourful marine surrounding sea and beyond. life that they support, offer The waters of Pulau Payar the best diving on Peninsular have an additional attraction: 3 Malaysia’s west coast. artificial reefs built from tires, The park is comprised concrete blocks and old of four uninhabited islands: boats, which over the years 1. Langakawi & Pulau Payar Payar, Lembu, Kaca and have developed into mature 2. Pulau Penang Segantang, which make reefs that are teeming with 3. Sembilan Islands and PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ Pulau Jarak Shark Point Lembu Rocks Goodyear TOP: Ghost pipefish Kaca Reef Lobster Garden Lembu INSET: Langkawi village shops Kaca RIGHT: Diving in Malaysia Pointe GardenWreck Shark Alley Pyramid Alley Rock Platform reef Point Anemone Garden RAAF Beach Segantan

Pulau Payar De Tyre Reef Plateau Coral Garden Grouper Farm Pulau Payar Marine Park

22 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The northern section of the Straits of Malacca, which Glimpses of Malaysia is one of the world’s busi- est shipping channels, may have had its draught altered significantly due to the tsunami that hit Asia on the 26th of December 2004, according to a report in the shipping journal, Portsworld. Water depths in parts of the Straits of Malacca could have dropped from 4000 feet (1333 m) before the quake to as low as 100 feet (33 m) and thousands of navigational aides, such as buoys held in place by mushroom-shaped anchors have been carried off to new locations. Old shipwrecks marked on charts had been relocated, joined by new wrecks that would have to be salvaged, moved or charted. PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ Sembilan Islands corals, it is common to see big ter underwater visibility due to its & Pulau Jarak Further south, schools of damselfish. It is also remoteness. Dolphins and sailfish near Lumut lies Pulau Sembilan. a good site for coral scallops have been sighted here, but The dive sites here are generally and nudibranches. Among the beyond that there are probably more challenging due to the prevalent species of fish, we find well-kept secrets unknown to currents and sometimes the visi- parrotfish, angelfish, pufferfish, everyone but the most hardcore bility is not more than 2-3 metres. lionfish and moray eels. divers. Diving depth ranges from 5 m Divers would do well to explor- to 40 m. White Rock, which is ing this archipelago. The dive characterised by a lighthouse, season is busy from November has steep walls to 40 m, where through March, since one can’t groupers and snappers sleep in dive at all on the east coast the crevices and under over- during that time. The diving is hangs. In the open water, it is easy with a maximum depth of not unusual to see barracuda, 15-20 m in the interesting areas, jacks and other big pelagic spe- whereas in the deeper parts, cies. there is mostly sandy bottom.

Around Saga, Lalang, Rumbia PHOTO: PETER SYMES There is one submerged reef and Buluh, one finds nice reefs Right in the middle of the off Jarak at about 25 m depth, with lots of table corals and straits, 40 miles (64 km) off Pulau however the currents can be brain corals as well as tentacle Pangkor, lies Pulau Jarak, a small quite strong there.

corals. Around the orange daisy uninhabited island that has bet- PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ ABOVE: Fishing boats at Taryung Rhu River, Langkawi. INSET: Fishing boat, Georgetown, Penang. LEFT: Nudibranch

Western Malaysia January 2, 2005, that the wave that the quake center and Langkawi, However, official records showed that beach front, which needed cleaning & the Tsunami hit Langkawi was not a tsunami, but effectively providing shelter from the 31 people in Penang drowned after of debris. There were no casualties a ‘shadow wave’ - a normal wave huge waves that caused havoc in tidal waves hit the coastal areas. of foreign tourists reported. The situa- caused by the tsunami that passed to Thailand and other countries. The The Malaysian Association of Hotels tion is back to normal as all hotels are Langakawi, the Malaysian area clos- the north and hit the cost of Thailand wave that reached Langkawi was reported that there was no damage operating as usual. Tourist attractions est to the epicentre and the hard- hundreds of kilometers away. The very weak. The impact of the tsunami to the hotels and their surrounding are not affected. Fortunately, it’s busi- est hit towns in Thailand, reported on Indonesian mainland stood between that struck Penang was also minimal. areas and facilities, except to the ness as usual in Penang.

23 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The East Coast

Glimpses of Malaysia PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ The East Coast Peninsular Malaysia’s virtually inaccessible from east coast is often quoted as the real November to January. Dive Malaysia. A collection of fishing villages, sites are very varied, from beaches and picturesque islands and, current-swept rocks close to with little industry to pollute its waters, it the Perhentians and Bidong, offers great diving. For a long time, these to gentle slopes covered islands were a secret of divers. with sea anemones around 4 Later, the exclusive resorts moved into Redang, to underwater the area. As a result, a 45 km stretch mounds in Lang Tengah. 5 of the Terengganu coastline — includ- All these places also have ing Pulau Redang and its neighbouring excellent house reefs that islands, Pulau Pinang, Pulau Lima, Pulau are good for night dives or 6 Ekor Tebu, Pulau Lang Tengah, Pulau snorkeling. Perhentian Besar, Pulau Perhentian Kecil, The underwater topogra- Pulau Susu Dara and Pulau Kapas — was phy usually consists of jum- declared a Marine National Park in 1991 bles of boulders that form in order to protect the area. caves, crevices and tunnels The reserve is an attempt to preserve carpeted with soft corals. In the wonders that are found here, and this shallow, warm water, to reverse some of the damage wrought the growth of marine life is by resort construction and over fish- prolific. While the visibility ing. Snorkelling is restricted to certain in these waters is generally 7 areas, and the Malaysian Department of excellent, extending up to Fisheries is busy building artificial reefs. 30 metres in fine weather Giant clam conditions, a combination The Perhentian Islands have a of tides and an overnight in an amazing display of synchronic- Pulau Kerengga Besar, a steep 8 relaxed diving atmosphere in an idyllic, rainstorm may stir up the sea floor result- ity. But even when less than ideal visibil- volcanic island that rises sharply out of laid-back setting. They consist of two ing in less than optimal visibility. ity is encountered, the unspoiled table the sea, appears to be home to various main islands — Perhentian Besar (Big Among the many varieties of marine coral formations are spectacular and the species of rays. Stingrays can be found Stopover Island) and Perhentian Kecil life, regular encounters include Jacks, abundance of hydrozoans, anthozoans, resting on the ocean bottom or winging 4. Perhentian Islands (Small Stopover Island) plus several small Yellowtail, Giant Clams, Triggerfish, Puffers, braincoral, sea fans, sea whips and sea gracefully past with manta Rays hovering 5. Redang Islands rocks and islets to the north-west, the latter Spotted Porcupinefish, Blue and Yellow cucumbers is breathtaking. Dolphins and overhead. Harp corals, nudibranchs and 6. Pulau Tangol giving the best diving. Most tourist accom- Fusiliers, Pencilfish, and huge Lionfish pilot whales can be seen in the area featherstars are common. Deeper down, 7. Pulau Tioman modation is on Perhentian Besar. Due to — that’s not forgeting the myriads of during July and August. Whalesharks are there are fields of stony corals and bar- 8. Pulau Aur the annual monsoon, the islands are tiny silver cardinalfish that jet around spotted a few times every year. rel sponges covered with alabaster sea cucumbers. Where the boulders meet the sand, there are many fish species, includ- The three most Tongot laut (temple of the sea) Perhentians ing stingrays, parrotfish and pufferfish. Pulau Lang Tengah Island lies in the popular destinations Teluk Tanjung Besi middle of the Marine Park sanctuary. Kerma of the East Coast Batu Here, we find crystal-clear water, pristine Pulau Layar beaches and untouched tropical jungle are the Perhentian Rawa as well as a coastline of arresting beauty Islands, the Redang Batu with white sandy beaches. Nissan Archipelago and Perhentian Artificial Tioman Island. Reefs Besar Terumbu Perhentian Tiga Kecil A map of a few of the many dive Shipwreck sites around the Perhentians

PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ LEFT: Soft coral and seashell 24 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Turtle Bay Redang shrimps and occasional Spanish Tanjung dancers. Green and hawksbill Tokong turtles are common. Reef fish Glimpses of Malaysia are plentiful, and pelagic species, including manta rays and whalesharks, are frequently Gua Kawah encountered. The Redang Archipelago’s Big Seamount is considered by Big many to be the most spec- Pulau Paku Kecil Pulau Seamount tacular dive site in peninsular Redang Ma Malaysia. Lying 50 m north of Chantik Pulau the island of Lima, it rises from Housereef Lima 30 m to within 10 m of the surface and is covered in anem- Small Seamount ones, gorgonians, tunicates, hard encrusting corals and soft PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ Marine tree corals, with boulder coral, ABOVE: Malaysian seafood. RIGHT: Diving in Malaysia Park HQ Anemone City lettuce coral, staghorn coral Terumbu Kili and acropora table corals. Pulau Kapas (Kapas Island) World War II shipwreck jacks, silver barracudas, and its neighbouring island, located five nautical miles triggerfish, clownfish and Pulau Gemia, are two popular offshore. The outer reefs parrotfish. You may also The Redang Archipelago consists day excursion and overnight destinations on her seaward side has spot sea turtles, squid, cut- of the island of Redang, the much smaller for locals and foreign tourists seeking a good dive sites as well. Its tlefish and rays. The reefs island of Pinang and seven tiny islets.* quick gateway, as the island is just four shallow water makes it an here are home to feather- This group of islands and a marine park nautical miles from Marang. Kapas also ideal training ground for stars, hydroids, black coral, established in 1985 boasts white sandy seems to have become the refuge of divers. Thai fishing boats anemones, sea fans and beaches, crystal-clear water and spec- those who want to avoid the Perhentian caught on illegal entry in sponges as well as manta tacular coral reefs, which are among the crowd. Places to stay range from camp- Terengganu waters are shrimp, nudibranchs and richest in the country, making the area ing sites to dormitories to island resorts with also sunk here as artificial the occasional Spanish one of the best dive spots in the world. en suite facilities. The only thing that never reefs. It has good dancer. During the Tenggol The reefs of the Redang Archipelago changes on this island is the constant marine life and months of April to August, Tokong Talang are home to over 55 g e n e r a number of backpackers arriving coral despite being green and hawksbill tur- of corals, 100 species o f and departing each day. The located so close to tles come onshore to lay fish as well as 52 gen- key attraction for diving at the mainland. Fish eggs. Pulau Kapas has also Tokong Tokong Laut Burung era of stony corals, Pulau Kapas is the that populate the become a popular place The Highway including the larg- area include snap- for squid fishing especial- Fishbowl est boulder coral in pers, rabbitfish, ly in the month of June.

this half of the country. PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ Amazing Rajawali Fish to look out for are Grace Reef snappers, jacks, rabbitfish, The Tenggol group of tine coral formations and a number Gua silver barracudas, clown- islands is the most southerly of submerged rocks with excellent Rajawall fish, triggerfish and par- of Terengganu’s Marine Parks. It coral growths. The deep waters sur- rotfish. Turtles are a com- consists of Pulau Tenggol, Pulau rounding the island offer good vis- Telok Air Tawar Coral mon sight and you may also Nyireh, Tokong Timur, Tokong ibility especially during the months Garden spot the occasional cuttle- Talang, Tokong Burung and of April until June. Marine life that Tanung Pulau fish, squid and eagle ray. Featherstars, Tokong Kemudi. The main can be seen here includes sharks, Gemluk Tenggol hydroids, black coral, anemones, sea island, Pulau Tenggol, is about rays, nudibranch and a wide vari- fans and sponges dominate the 50 hectors in size and is one of ety of hard and soft coral. Before Tanjung reefs of Redang. For macro-lovers, the most beautiful and serene being declared a marine park, Batu Sarang Lang Chachang there are also nudibranchs, mantis islands off peninsular Malaysia’s Pulau Tenggol was a favourite hunt- east coast. It is also famous for its ing ground for spear-fishermen, par- * PULAU REDANG, PULAU PINANG, PULAU LING, PULAU EKOR TEBU, PULAU KERENGGA BESAR , spectacular rocky cliffs that offer ticularly for snappers and groupers. PULAU KERENGGA KECIL, PULAU PAKU BESAR, PULAU PAKU KECIL AND PULAU LIMA. many excellent dive sites of pris- Tokong Timur PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’

25 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO Pulau Tioman, Pahang Glimpses of Malaysia Tioman is the largest and big wreck fans and technical divers cost of boat rentals is high and scuba Teluk Rayner Rock most developed of the 64 vol- will enjoy Tioman as there are several diving has been possible only in groups Jawa canic islands in the Seri Buat South China Sea wrecks in the area. pre-arranged by dive shops in Kuala Tip of Pulau Lobster Cay archipelago that make up the These Second World War treasures Lumpur and Singapore. Spectacular Dayang Dayang Crocodile Rock Dayang Pahang Marine Parks. In 1958, — including the Prince of Wales, the dive sites include Teluk Teluran with Pulau Tioman was chosen to Repulse, Varella and various subma- large undulating corals — which are Island Reef be James Michener’s ficti- rines and battleships — lie all around home to various octopuses, crabs and Teluk Teluran tious Bali Hai for the filming of Tioman, normally at a depth of 40 m moray eels — the Ming dynasty wreck the Hollywood classic, “South or more. at Teluk Mariam and the wall diving at Roberts Pacific.” Since then, Pulau Pulau Pinang, which is also good for Point Tioman, which is easily acces- Pulau Aur is located 65 km east of drift diving. Pulau sible by air or boat, became Mersing on the east coast of Johor. Accommodation is available only Aur The a popular tourist attraction Together with surrounding islands on Pulau Dayang and Pulau Aur. Garden especially among underwater Pulau Dayang, Pulau Lang and Pulau Amenities are pretty basic as electric- Teluk Meriam explorers. Pinang, it makes up for about half of ity to the rooms is limited and there is Ming wreck The Tioman Marine Park is Johor Marine park. The blue waters no hot running water. It is a popular zoned as a sanctuary for the here are deeper than around the getaway for divers based in Singapore coral reef community and inner islands. for which reason it can be quite busy Aur- the shallow, still waters near Due to its remoteness from the main- at weekends. However, you may have The Pinnacles Tioman, such as at the sites of land, visibility is excellent and sightings the island practically to yourself on Dayang Pirate Reef and Renggis Island, of big pelagics are common. However, weekdays. are perfect for training the less experienced diver. Further out Chebeh Teluk Magicienne to sea, the Tioman Island dive Kador Rock sites such as Chebeh and Tiger Reef, are set in deeper waters Tulai Island Fan Canyon PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ where you may encounter Sepoy Malang Rock challenging currents and also Labas the chance to see larger species. There is plenty of coral circling most Soyah Tiger of the island including alyconarian reef Marine soft corals and multi-colored staghorn Park coral. You will most likely run into all the Tekek Wreck usual reef life, the most numerous of Renggis which being parrotfish and butterflyfish. The best diving is around the small islets and rocks to the west and north-west Pulau where an incredible variety of angel- Tioman fish and butterflyfish can be found. The water is clear to a depth of about 30 metres. Turtles and cuttlefish laying eggs are common in July and August. There are some other islands off the Sepoy east coast that have good diving but Bahara Rock are less visited. Dive sites also include Jahat Tioman over a dozen wrecks — mainly scuttled wooden-hulled fishing trawlers. Even

Colonies of sponges and soft corals are

motels for feather stars and cardinal fishes PHOTO: MICHAEL AW

26 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Photo: Michael Aw

Events & holidays Whip goby and black coral shrimp The major Islamic events are connected with Ramadan, the ninth month of the Muslim calendar. The major Malaysian festival is Hari Raya Puasa, which marks the end of Ramadan with three days of joyful celebra- tions. Hari Raya Haji marks the successful completion of the hajj (pilgrimage to Mecca) HMS PrinceIf you’re of into deepWales technical upsideand down. Repulse The bottom is silty diving, then 95 km off Kuantan and the visibility rarely good. lie the wrecks of two of the most Also two Dutch submarines and a powerful ships in the British British mine-sweeper found their Royal Navy from the second World final destination in the South PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ War: The 35,000-ton battleship HMS China Sea after hitting the same Prince of Wales and the 32,000-ton mine field. The main difference battle cruiser HMS Repulse. The between Tioman and other World Repulse is on her starboard side in War II wreck diving destinations about 55 m of water, with the decks is that most of the wrecks leaning at about a 30-35 degree around here are in deeper water angle. HMS Prince of Wales lies in and therefore only suitable for 66-68 metres of water buried in the technical divers. soft bottom, but she is completely Photo taken from Japanese aircraft showing the sinking of HMS Repulse on December with a two-day feast of cakes and sweets. 10, 1941. Source: US Naval Historical center Chinese New Year, in January or February, is welcomed with dances, parades and a lot of good cheer. The festival of Thaipusam in late January is one of the most dramatic Hindu festivals during which devotees honour Lord Subramaniam with acts of amazing masochism — definitely not for the squeamish. In Kuala Lumpur, devotees march to nearby Batu Caves. In Penang, the event is celebrated at the Waterfall Temple. The Kota Belud Tamu Besar is a huge tribal gathering held in May at Kota Belud near Kota Kinabalu in Sabah. It includes a massive market, traditional ceremonies, ornately decorated horsemen, medicine men and tribal handi- crafts. A smaller tamu is held in Kota Belud every Sunday if you’re not visiting during May.

27 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 Sarawak Anemone garden Glimpses of Malaysia

10 9

9. Tanjung Datu 10. Talang Salang 11. Miri

“Unlike reefs on the neighbouring state of Sabah and those of Indonesia and the Phillippines, which are consistently exploited by destructive blasts and cyanide fishing, Miris reefs are relatively pristine. There are no con- spicuous signs of dam-

age or impact from high PHOTO: MICHAEL AW sedimentation or illegal fishing indicating that ore than 30 ethnic groups Despite the fact that three quar- park also showcases a wide vari- their spectacular limestone cave Sarawak is around the Talang- Mlive together harmoniously in ters of its landmass is still covered ety of vegetation found in Borneo formations. The famous limestone Talang islands, a marine turtle the reefs of the Miri- Sarawak, including 21 native eth- with the world’s oldest tropical including carnivorous pitcher caves here include the world’s sanctuary. The corals surrounding Sibuti areas are among nic groups, Malay and Chinese. rainforests and latticed with riv- plants, sundews, bladderworts largest cave passage and the this island are remarkable in their Even with such diversity, individual ers and tributaries, travel around and the world’s largest flower world’s largest natural rock cham- variety. There’s a colourful pal- the last remaining ones groups have retained their cultur- Sarawak is easy. Ten national — the one metre wide Rafflesia. ber. ette of fish, and the waters are in the world” al identity, observing traditional parks scattered throughout the Miri, near the border with Brunei, Most of the waters around pleasant and very safe. The area customs and rituals on a day-to- state make for easy access to is the gateway to the north of Sarawak are not great dive around the Talang-Talang islands Michael Aw day basis. Tourists are welcome Sarawak’s splendid natural treas- Sarawak and its spectacular nation- locations because of the shal- was, however, recently gazetted everywhere and the people are ures. Residents include the endem- al parks, rivers and highlands. Niah low waters and a number of as a national park. This change all very friendly. English is widely ic proboscis monkey, the famous and Gunung Mulu National Parks muddy and swampy estuar- has brought about some confusion spoken although the national lan- bearded pig, silver leaf monkeys in Northwest Sarawak are perhaps ies lying off the coastlines. as to how the public may enjoy guage is Malay. and long-tailed macaques. The the best known in Sarawak with The best spot for diving in West the natural beauty, which is now

28 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Glimpses of Malaysia Atago Maru Wreck

Tukau Drop Off Santak Point

Tukau Oil rigs Roberts Reef Azam’s Place Miri Seafan Gardens Eve’s Garden Batu Betals

Anemone Garden Siwa Oil rigs

PHOTOS: MICHAEL AW Sunday Reef VHK Reef INSET: Double horn Siwa Reef nudibranch

LEFT: The pilons of an oil rig make a Grouper Patch good home for soft coral gardens and marine life which Tusan Reef Miri - shelter there like this Sri Gadong Reef Sarawak school of batfish

may come across the Rafflesia, with varying depths from 7 to 30 the world’s largest flower, whose meters with average visibility of 10 blooms measure a metre across. to 30 meters. You can explore old Mountains sweep down to the shipwrecks and spectacular coral sea. This park lies on the extreme reefs. South Luconia Shoals, Eve’s western tip of the State. Garden, Anemore Garden, Royal The debris-free mountain streams Charlotte Atoll Grouper Patch ensure crystal clear waters off Reef, Sri Gadong and Atago Mari some of Sarawak’s finest beach- Wrecks are just some of the newest es. There are also coral formations attractions for diving enthusiasts. close in to shore that make this There are more than 15 dive sites yet-to-be-explored dive site ideal with the latest one dubbed “Rig preserved as pat of the national wreck diving, but these dives are Satang National Park were con- trawlers from trawling within the for scuba diving. On shore, the to Reef”– a recently submerged heritage. At turtle nesting time, no regarded as quite challenging. structed for marine conservation resting areas used by turtles dur- park is rich in flora and fauna. decommissioned oil platform that marine traffic is allowed near the Also challenging are the waters using concrete reef balls. Since ing the nesting season that falls is the only one in Malaysia. The est islands at all. around Tanjung Datus, the rocky 1998, about one thousand reef between May and October. A per- Miri Just 30 minutes off the coast- dive season is April to October. The underwater scenery around headland at the northwest cape balls have been deployed around mit from the Forest Department is line of Miri, there are several diving Satang is not as attractive as of the great island of Borneo. the coast of Sarawak. This is the necessary for entry into the park. spots where natural reefs provide Labuan island is located 115 Talang-Talang. Visibility is not too Here, two ocean currents clash first reef ball project in Asia and diverse marine life. The dive loca- km south of Kota Kinabalu and good and the nearer you are together creating underwater tur- was instigated for conservation Gunung Gading tions have next to no current most 8km off the mainland of Sabah at to the mouth of Sarawak River, bulence that can only be man- purposes. The National Park has National Park Trek through of the time and water tempera- the northern mouth of Brunei. Its the cloudier the water gets. aged by experienced divers. important turtle nesting beaches, the mountains to view beautiful ture averages 30 degrees Celsius. deep harbour and duty free port Off the rivermouth there is some The artificial reefs at Talang- and reef balls are used to stop waterfalls and rare plants. You The reefs here are all patch reefs attract shipping from all over the

29 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Sabah

Glimpses of Malaysia PHOTO: PETER SYMES 14 17 Tiga is believed to have been formed by kilometres north of Labuan near the the eruption of several mud volcanoes, famous and disputed Spratly group of 16 which, with the combination of subterra- islands. Its coral walls plunge a stagger- 15 18 nean gas pressure and expelled muddy ing 2000 metres down to the floor of the sediment, could have built up the island South China Sea. In 1985, the Malaysian 13 to its present height of approximately Federal Government began reclamation 100 m above sea level. The only resort on work and created a 50-acre island on 12 the island, Pulau Tiga Resort, offers PADI one part of the reef. The island now has a dive courses and many dive sites for the 1,067-metre airstrip and novice and experienced divers including a comfortable 90-room 19 some unexplored dive locations. A rich three-star resort with a 20 variety of marine life can be seen includ- full service PADI dive 2221 ing nudibranchs, bamboo sharks, cuttle- centre. It is now a world fish, marbled stingray and, of course, a class diving paradise 12. Labuan 16. Mantanani 21. Mabul visit to nearby “Snake Island” guarantees dubbed the “big fish 13. Pulau Tiga 17. Kudat wrecks 22. Sipadan sightings of banded sea snakes. The sur- and wall diving Mecca 14. Layang-Layang 18. Lankayan rounding reefs are shallow with healthy of Southeast Asia.” 15. Tunku Abdul Rahman 19. Mataking coral and water visibility ranging from Its warm waters are crystal clear with Marine Park 20. Kapalai 6 m to 20 m. visibility averaging the best in the under- Kota Kinabalu. Until recently, the islands water world. Large shoals of pelagics, were only known to a few locals. The world and in 1990, Labuan was declared and the Dutch vessel, the SS De Klerk, also Tunku Abdul Rahman including massive numbers of barracuda, largest island houses the only dive resort, the International Offshore Finance Centre known as the “Australian Wreck,” which Marine Park is easily accessed from jacks and an awesome school of hammer- Mantanani Resort, which is situated at of Malaysia. Although three islands – was thought to have been sunk by the Sabah’s capital, Kota Kinabalu, and is head sharks, numbering about a hundred the western end on the edge of a white Pulau Kumaran, Pulau Rusukan Kecil and Royal Australian Air Force. part of a larger protected ensemble that individuals, regularly visit Layang-Layang. sandy bay. Three wrecks have been dis- Pulau Rusukan Besar — are designated The other two wrecks were sunk in the offers the double-splendor of land and Manta rays with fin-spans of over ten feet covered and many species of rays can as Marine Parks, the special underwater 1980’s, the Philippine stern trawler, MV sea adventures. The marine life that has (3 m) are also found here. Other residents be found: Marbled stingray, Blue spotted attractions of Labuan are its shipwrecks. Mabini Padre, locally called the “Blue been spotted here includes manta rays, include the Napoleon wrasse, Hawksbill ray and large schools of eagle rays. For Four well-researched and regularly dived Water Wreck,” and the Tung Hwang, turtles, lionfish, a multitude of pelagics turtles, Dog tooth tuna, Giant hammer- macro photographers, the “muck diving” wrecks to the southwest make this area a Japanese freighter locally known as and lots of coral. During the krill bloom head wrasse and the White tip reef sharks. is amazing. You will find seahorses, imperi- “the wreck diving center of Malaysia.” the “Cement Wreck.” All four ships lie in from December to April, whale sharks al shrimps, pink-eye gobies, jawfish, blue- INSET PHOTO SOURCE: WWW.LAYANGLAYANG.COM Two of the wrecks are from World War II, 30 m to 35 m of water, with the top portions are sometimes spotted. Located a short Mantanani Islands have a new ringed octopus, ribbon eels and many the U.S. Navy minehunter, the USS Salure, lying at 8 m to 12 m. The water visibility var- 15 minute boat ride from the city of Kota exciting resort. Dugongs have been seen nudibranchs. There are now 16 dive sites also known as the “American Wreck,” ies greatly season to season from 6 m to Kinabalu, Pulau Mamutik offers a fine site occasionally in many coastal regions, but identified by Mantanani Resort with many 20 m. The type of diving on these wrecks for macro photography. they are most consistently sighted around more still to be explored. ranges from novice to experienced wreck the Mantanani Islands which are a group Labuan divers with penetration possible into the Layang-Layang or “Swallow Reefs” of three isolated islands northwest of Kudat wreck diving is found off the hulls, but the wrecks are great dives is an atoll (14 sq. km) that lies about 300 Kota Belud and about 80 km north of northwest coast of Sabah where a group even if you choose not to enter them. Diving the wrecks can be B E Labuan arranged through Borneo Divers. F A C D Pulau Tiga is an island situated in Pulau Tiga Park, located about A 35 nautical miles southwest of Mantanani G Kota Kinabalu. Three islands make Mantanani J B up Pulau Tiga Park — Pulau Tiga, K I H C D Pulay Kalampunian Damit (bet- islands L ter known as “Snake Island”) and A. Blue Water Wreck Pulau Kalampunian Basar. Pulau B. Cement Wreck A. Great Wall E. Sahara Desert I. Police Gate C. American Wreck B. Gilly Rock F. Abalone Avenue J. Italian Place D. Australian Wreck C. Boxy Avenue G. Southeast Point K. Hasim Stone Double Horn nudibranch PHOTO: MICHAEL AW D. Mantis Avenue H. Riza Garden L. Three wrecks

30 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Glimpses of Malaysia Sarawak N A M B A. Bimbo Rock B. Lost Reef L Lankayan C. Ken’s Rock K D. Mosquito Wreck E. Twin City C F. Jawfish Lair J G. Malu Malu I H. And & Ant D I. Supermarket Group J. Lankayan Wreck H E K. Froggie Fort L. Ricky Rock M. Coral Garden N. Fan Garden G F Lankayan

LEFT: Deeper reef colonies of red whip and coral seascapes

BELOW: Shrimp living with bubble coral fied. Pelagics also abound here, from large schools of scads to yellow-tail barracudas and jacks. The many schools of medium to large humphead parrotfish are always exciting to encounter. Sometimes, divers are lucky enough to meet large PHOTO: MICHAEL AW rays, guitarfish and even manatees. Among the 40 dive sites is Lankayan Wreck, the remains of an of islands lie with rarely dived reefs. These includes schools of glassfish, lionfish, scor- Lankayan Island is a virtually unin- ocean-going boat that was islands include Pulau Balambangan, pionfish and huge resident groupers. The habited island and one of the best spots used in illegal fishing here. Pulau Banggi, Pulau Jambongan, Pulau surrounding islands have shallow reefs for whale shark sighting. The location of This wreck now hosts many Molleangan, Pulau Balak and Pulau fringing their shores with all the usual the whale shark is usually indicated by different species of fish from Malawali. A number of wrecks have resident reef fish such as the coral trout, flocks of seabirds screeching high above small glassfish, harlequin recently been discovered in this area. All butterflyfish, angelfish and the occasion- the placid surface. Lankayan Island is ghost pipefish, painted frog- thought to be merchant ships, two are al cuttlefish. Sipadan-Mabul Regal Tours, also a true macro-world paradise. Large fish to giant grouper and lying at 20 m to 25 m and the third is lying which is based in Kota Kinabalu, now has stretches of beautiful hard and soft cor- marbled stingrays. Despite a little deeper at 50 m. All three wrecks a live-aboard boat, the “Scuba Explorer,” als belonging to numerous genera are the remoteness, the island resemble coral gardens. They are com- regularly visiting the area. As these reefs preserved, including colourful juvenile resort has all the ameni- pletely covered in colorful sponge and have rarely been dived, new sites are fishes. It is possible that some of the spe- ties of a modern resort. soft corals. Marne life around the wrecks being discovered on many of the trips. cies found here are as yet to be identi- Visitors stay in bungalows made out of local wooden materials to blend into the natural surroundings.

PHOTO: MICHAEL AW

31 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Glimpses of Malaysia

The area around Semporna at Sabah’s eastern tip is home to several famous Semporna Mataking dive destinations from which a lot of the same dive sites can be reached 0 5 10km PHOTO: PETER SYMES

shelf, downsteam from the mangrove delta off Mabul Semporna. Due to the Kapalai pattern of the currents in the area, Mabul Island seems to act as a scoop Eastern Sabah catching the most amaz- Sipadan ing sorts of critters. Like Mataking, Kapalai, Mabul and the environment and the surrounding sea. Kapalai, the sea bottom Here, tourists can learn and participate at Mabul seems covered Sipadan. From muck diving to in The Reef Ball project during their stay at with mysterious creatures. impressive dropoffs, it is all in the resort. ‘Reef Balls’ are made of con- one place. crete, which are then placed at various Sipadan Island Just a sites underwater to rebuild corals and to 15 minute boat ride from Mataking is a small island, about 45 provide artificial homes to the underwater Mabul Island is Sipadan minutes by speedboat from Semporna. fishes. Since the start of the project, a total Island — a unique island There is only one resort on the island, the of 220 reef balls have been deployed. because it sits on the oce-

Reef Dive Resort, with a total of eight Coral plantings include Tubastraea PHOTO: PETER SYMES anic bottom. With Sipadan executive chalets and two lodges that Micrantha (Dark Green Tube), Knotted and Kapalai practically can accommodate up to 60 guests at Fan Coral, Sea Fan (Red Gorgonian), Kapalai Island offers some of the across the street from Mabul, the discern- one time. The Reef Dive Resort is an eco- pocillopora Verrucosa (Staghorn Coral) best “muck diving” in this part of the ing diver has the best of everything within friendly dive resort and, from the very and Seriatopora Hystrix (Staghorn Coral). world. Here, divers come face to face a few minutes ride, not to mention access beginning, the management of the resort There are about 30 dive sites around with amazing marine creatures. Testing to the Mabul’s magnificient housereef. Profile of the sea floor in the area. has placed a great emphasis on care for Mataking, its surrounding islands of your skills at spotting minute and cleverly In the following pages, we devote a One can see that Sipadan Island is a Pandanan, Timba Timba and the Tun camouflaged oddities is well-rewarded. whole section to diving at Sipadan Island. pinnacle located in what is technically Sakaran Marine Park islands of Bohey Rare subjects such as cuttlefish, blue- But first, let’s go ape and check out the the ocean, whereas the continental Dulang and Gaya. The three best-known ringed octopus, sea moths and mat- oran-utans at Sepilok. shelf lies just beyond Mabul Island. dive sites that surround Mataking are ing mandarinfish are seen on a regular Magic Rick, Mantis Reef and Alice Wall. basis. Although Kapalai is just a few min- The Alice Channel, which is about 100 utes away by boat from Sipadan, one metres deep, connects Mataking to can expect a completely different diving Sipadan Island, which is only a 45-minute experience. The only resort occupying boat ride away. the island is the Sipadan-Kapalai Resort, Midway to Sipadan, we find two other which is built on wooden stilts over the reef. famous dive sites. Mabul and Kapalai Islands are probably the most exciting Mabul Island is where the phrase, Mabul Kapalai diving places for macro marine life in “muck diving,” was coined. Here, many the wild. First, on the Ligitan Reefs, a very new species have been discovered. A extensive stretch bordering the deep and sheltered bay just off the luxurious resort, vast Celebes Sea, we find a long-kept Sipadan Water Village, provides a natu- secret dive destination called Kapalai. ral protection to fish fry. Mabul Island PHOTO: PETER SYMES sits just on the edge of the continental

32 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Glimpses of Malaysia Orang Utan Sepilok The Orangutan (also spelled ‘Orang Utan’ Text by Michael Symes or ‘Orang-utan’ and Photos by Peter Symes sometimes incorrectly as ‘orangutang’) is a back to health before they can captive breeding of the rare and great ape with long be released into the forest. Many endangered rhinoceros. arms and reddish, orangutans that end up here have sometimes brown hair. strayed into logging camps or been Possibility for working at It is native to Malaysia rescued from captivity. Many are Sepilok At Sepilok you could have and Indonesia. orphaned babies that cannot sur- the opportunity to work with these ‘Orangutan’ is derived vive in the forest alone. gentle and highly intelligent red from the Malay phrase When the rescued orangutans first apes in their natural environment. ‘Orang Hutan’ mean- arrive at the centre, they are often Interaction with these remarkable ing “man of the forest.” in a sorry state and riddled with creatures, man’s closest relative, Orangutans are the most arboreal of the great apes, diseases. They are put into cages could be an unforgetta- spending nearly all of their time in the trees. while they are treated for their ail- ble experience. All details They are only found in rainforests on the ments and nursed back to health. regarding the project are Orangutan is islands of Borneo and Sumatra. These two The wardens then teach them how to be found at: www.trav- derived from the small isolated populations were classified as to forage for fruit, climb trees and ellersworldwide.com subspecies until recently, when they were generally fend for themselves. When Malay phrase elevated to the specific level (Pongo pyg- Staff members at Sepilok Orangutan Rehab Center feed and care for the Oranguntans they are mid-way through the reha- The Orangutan Orang Hutan maeus on Borneo, and P. abelii on Sumatra). bilitation process they are released Appeal Sepilok meaning man Furthermore, primatologists now recognise Men of the Forest at Sepilok The Sepilok Orangutan into the surrounding forest reserve. Orangutan Appeal UK, three subspecies of the Bornean orangutan: The orangutan, meaning “man of Rehabilitation Centre The animals then spend most of founded in 2000, is a reg- of the forest. P. p. pygmaeus in northwest Borneo, P. p. the forest” in Malay, is one of the The Sepilok Orangutan their time in the forest but often istered charity based in morio in northeast and east Borneo, and P. most endangered of Malaysian Rehabilitation Centre is situated on return to one of the centers five England. It is dedicated p. wurmbii in southwest Borneo. wildlife species. Found only in the east coast of Sabah, 23 km from feeding platforms for a “free” meal. to the rehabilitation and preserva- Orangutans are highly endangered in the wild. Orangutan Borneo and Sumatra, the orangu- Sandakan. A twenty-minute drive When the wardens feel that that an tion of orangutans and their habitat habitat destruction due to logging, mining and forest fires tans’ survival is constantly threat- from Sandakan brings you to Kabili- orangutan is fully rehabilitated, it in the Sabah region of Malaysian has been increasing rapidly in the last decade. Much of this ened by forest fires, felling of trees, Sepilok Forest, an enormous area of is caught and returned to the wild Borneo. It supports various sponsor activity is illegal, occurring in national parks that are officially poaching and illegal hunting. virgin rainforest. The wealth of indig- - usually deep in the forest or to schemes, and also publishes mate- off limits to loggers, miners and plantation development. Orangutans are protected under enous and rare plants, animals and one of the National Parks or Wildlife rial, including a DVD about the There is also a major problem with the illegal trapping of the Fauna Conservation Ordinance birds that have found sanctuary Sanctuaries. Rehabilitation Centre. For further baby Orangutans for sale in the pet trade; the trappers usu- which, among other things, prohibits here must be seen to be believed. The objectives of the project have information about the important ally kill the mother to steal the baby. hunting, trading or keeping them as The Wildlife Reserve contains the expanded in recent years, and work of this charity please visit: pets. The population is now estimat- orangutan rehabilitation centre. while orangutan rehabilitation is still www.orangutan-appeal.org.uk ed to be as low as 15000, and so This centre, established in 1964, the primary goal at Sepilok, present orangutans are now on the critically was set up as a means of housing aims include public education on Late postscript For those endangered list and face extinction injured or orphaned orangutans, conservation and research with interested in more informa- within 10 years if nothing is done caring for them and nursing them other endangered species, such as tion regarding orangutans, now. Among Orangutans: Orangutans share Red apes and the 96.4% of human genes, rise of human culture and catch most of the has just received a diseases that affect very positive review man. They are astonish- in NewScientist, 22 ingly gentle, highly intel- January 2005 (Vol 185 ligent and they gaze at No 2483). See www. you with almost discon- newscientist.com ■ certing frankness.

33 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED DERFOR handler Helle Alslund i Dykkercentret

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34 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 Frederiksberg Niels Ebbesens Vej 24-28, 3323 2662 København Nørregade 38, 3312 0303

Kuala Lumpur • Penang • Langkawi • Pangkor • Malacca • Terengganu • Tioman • Redang • Sabah • Sarawak www.malaysiatrulyasia.co.uk SIPADAN Still open for business? Text by Peter Symes Photos by Peter Symes & Gunild Pak Symes Jacques Cousteau called Sipadan Island a rare pearl. It Text & photos by Peter Symes is thought to have the best diving in the whole world. Take but a few steps from the beach and you can dive straight into vertical drop-offs. The wealth and diversity of species there is quite overwhelming. There are turtles everywhere, with shoals of barracuda and sharks that lay and sleep on the plateaus covered by gardens of coral. Popular and famous but also exploited beyond what the island’s fragile ecosystem could sustain, the Malaysian government was forced to act. Dive operators on Sipadan have had to vacate their structures on ABOVE: Sipadan Island as the island. Effective January 1st seen from the dive boat 2005, only day trips are allowed LEFT: Detail of one of the to Sipadan and these are limited many orchids that grace the region to a maximum of 80 visitors.

35 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Glimpses of Malaysia Sipadan

Reality check We speed over the ◄ Orchids mirror-smooth surface at 25 knots — the ▼ Mokan fishing boat jungle-covered foothills of Borneo slowly disappear behind us in the white wake. I squint my eyes under the bright tropical sun. Everyone on board this powerful motor- boat is dozing off into their own thoughts. It all seems a little unreal to me, and difficult to grasp. That little island, like a small green fragile point seemingly hovering on the nearly invisible line of the hori- zon, in all that overwhelming blue, is the legendary Sipadan. Ever since my young The myth The boat slows down as we diving days as a sportsdiver, coming here near Sipadan. How small the island is! has been one of my biggest dreams. And But there is a large reef surrounding the for me, back when I was a poor student, it. The guide looks down into the water. it was also nearly an impossible dream. We are getting close to Barracuda But here I am now, sitting and listening to point, the northerly part of Sipadan’s the keel of the boat cutting through the reef. The ocean current splits at this point water, as the sun warms me and jetlag to flow past the island, so large shoals of melts out of my body. barracuda often collect here. Today is My thoughts went back to the plane no exception. There are both current and trip out here, to that moment of daybreak barracuda, so we glide carefully into the nearer, against the current, without hav- when, after a night-long flight from Europe, water and swim quickly down to the edge ing to make too great an effort. With the plane took its silent descent. I looked of the reef at a depth of about 10 meters, my eye stuck to the camera viewfinder down over Asia for the first time. There in order to get into the lee of the current. I move in towards the circling predators. seemed to be something symbolic in that The wall is steep and covered by spong- Suddenly, like a flock of birds in their quiet arrival in Singapore. And now, after es and corals of every shape and form. I autumnal migration, the whole shoal having flown over the South China Sea find a small sandy spot where I can sit changes direction and now comes and driven across Borneo, I am here — at and collect both my thoughts and all my towards me. A living carpet of fish-faces last. A great adventure is about to begin. photographic equipment – flash, cables, full of needle-sharp teeth are check- bracket and camerahouse. I look up ing me out. The entire formation pass- and see an enormous barracuda-carrou- es close by me and then around me. Barracuda point sel. Above me, majestic predators circle I hang there in the water, in the middle Coral Garden peacefully, while several sea turtles glide of a crowd of shiney muscular fish that, at by looking like circling aircraft awaiting one and the same time, consider me with Drop permission to land on the airstrip reef. some interest and yet, like aloof felines, Off Whitetip It is a reef abounding with life. Turtles demonstrate an arrogant indifference Turtle Avenue Tomb are napping here and there. Or are they to my presence. I am just a guest here, West Reef keeping a lookout? White-tip reef sharks and they make sure that I don’t forget it. Mid Reef twist lazily in and out among the blocks of But soon the barracuda allow me to coral, or lay at rest on the plateaus. There swim with them as one of their shoal. I Hanging are many blue fusiliers sporting deep blue look around, and on both sides and over Garden Turtle Patch colours and perfect forms, creating their me, their bodies are parallel with mine as own playful shoal around the barracu- we swim slowly forwards. Yet even when Lobster Lair das. they are swimming in a relaxed fashion South Point I slowly close-in on the barracudas. they move much more rapidly than I I give a gentle kick and make myself can. It is difficult to keep up with them. streamlined in order to be able to swim The shoal disappears into the blue haze, Divers approach a tornado of barracudas at Barracuda Cove off Sipadan Island

36 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Glimpses of Malaysia Sipadan

leaving me feeling slightly dizzy after such a multitude of different impressions in so short a time, with an empty camera and a goofy empty expression on my face.

Introspection I shake myself loose of my moment of awe and release a surface marker buoy so that the boat can find me. It really wasn’t necessary because the boatsman had kept good contact, but I always do it routinely. We sail quietly in to the little jetty where we have a short break for lunch. We are served island ascends like a spire from the sea huts clumped together in the little scalding hot tea, which we sit floor, vertically rising straight up from bit of jungle that hugs the crown and drink while peacefully enjoy- the ocean bed some 800 meters down. of the island. It seems bizarre. This ing the scenery around us. On and around the edge of the reef, is a remote outpost of civilization, From the end of the short jetty, many sea turtles can be seen sticking their out where the world seems to be one can nearly see straight down noses up our of the water to get air. All is based only on a couple of floor- the famous drop-off of Sipadan. tranquil. We go for a walk on the island. boards. It is a tiny island surrounded Just a few meters from the beach With only 12 hectares, the island is not by an enormous ocean, and there it goes down almost vertically. very big, and it takes just a quarter of is nothing here. Nothing, that is to say, large caverns beneath it, among which Sipadan is special, in that the an hour to go round it. There are many other than a fabulous underwater realm is the famous Turtle Tomb. But it also con- for which the diving fanatics of tains fresh water. While the island itself the world are willing to travel half is no bigger than 7-8 football pitches way around the planet to explore! the surrounding reef covers about 200 hectars, and the outer reef has a circum- Strange Pulau Sipadan means ference of 5.7 km. There is a low-water ‘The Island in the Borderland’ in lagoon with sea-grass, different algae, malay. The name fits very well, small coral clumps and micro-atolls. The since the island crosses bor- edge of the reef lies at a depth of two to ders in more than one sense. eight meters, where the reef either goes Geologically, it lies six sea miles over into a drop-off (i.e. a vertical coral from the continental shelf, and wall) or a slope. About 2.4 of the 5.7 km is Malaysia’s only oceanic island. are vertical or form overhangs, and 2.3 km The island is topped by a coral of the walls have an incline of over 60%. cap. It is an atoll of indetermi- nate depth that has formed Politics The island has constantly over a volcano rising sharply been an object of dispute and friction from the ocean bed. This spire regarding the setting of international seems to be a magnet for animal frontiers. Malaysia, the Philippines and life, and it is that characteristic Indonesia have laid claim the island, which makes the island unique. not to mention, there is still an old Malay The island is porous and has who claims that the island was given to

CLOCKWISE FROM LOWER LEFT: Sipadan Water Village Resort (SWVR) bungalos, Malaysian flora, SWVR Welcome Center & check in, view of SWVR from dive center, indigenous and nomadic Mokan people fish early in the morning and at night

37 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Sipadan

his grandfather by the sultan of Sulu. Malaysia fought a war of independ- ence against Indonesia in the 1960’s over, among other places, the boundary that still runs right across Borneo. The Philippines have also claimed Sabah, the Malay state in which we are now located. On my last visit, I was told that Indonesia owned the island but that Malaysia had an irrevocable leasing agreement, which annoyed Indonesia, to say the least. They could clearly see that Sipadan was a magnet for tourists. With so much contradictory information, it was difficult to a handle on the confusing situation. However, I found out that the matter was settled on Dec 17, 2002, when the International Court of Justice at The belongs to Malaysia. the southern part of the island. The Hague in The Netherlands, made a judg- Notwithstanding, the island was already water is still calm. The reef is not so ment in the long-pending case con- declared a bird reservation back in 1933, steep on this side, and there are large cerning the sovereignty of the islands of and is therefore protected. There are flat surfaces of coral-gardens with both Sipadan and Ligitan. In its ruling, which frigate birds here, as well as sea-eagles, hard and soft corals. Some 300 spe- kingfishers, a number of species of dove, cies of corals have been identified here. and a large number of rare birds whose Among the blocks of coral, there are names I did not catch. In between dives, many turtles to be found looking at the it really is worthwhile to go round the surrounding multi-coloured life. Down island to look at the birdlife. The large inside the corals one can find blen- and rare robber crabs can also be found nies with all sorts of strange growths on here, as well as birgo latro, the spectacu- their fins. If one looks carefully enough, lar coconut crabs which crawl up into one can also find ghostpipefish which, the coconut palms to get at the fruit. with their superb camouflage, can At the present time, it is the Malay tour- disappear completely into the back- ist and environmental authorities who ground. A trained eye is required to have responsibility for the island. And spot them when they are not moving. these authorities are the administrators The current has increased, so we let who determine the ever-changing per- us drift lazily past the walls of coral in mits for how many guests are allowed a northerly direction up towards Turtle to visit Sipadan at any one time. The Patch on the east side of Sipadan. authorities have stationed park rangers Above us, there is a giant shoal of blue on the island to look after the birdlife and fusiliers and one or two barracuda. to protect the sea turtles that come to Beneath us, further down the coral wall, the beaches of Sipadan to lay their eggs. we can see the sharks patrolling. Most is considered “final, without appeal and of them are white-tip reef sharks, but ABOVE: A gentle sea turtle rests on the reef surrounding Sipadan Island, Malaysia binding for the parties,” the high court Afternoon other types can occasionally be seen. INSET: Mokan people live and work and raise their families in wooden fising boats found that sovereignty of the islands After lunch we sail around South Point, At mid-reef, our guide, Alex, waves us TOP RIGHT: View of the beach at Sipadan-Mabul Resort

38 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Glimpses of Malaysia Sipadan

down to the bottom. He Sipadan was called ”The has found a large group Ghost of the Sea Turtle” of humphead parrot fish with reference to the local swimming idly between superstition. This beautiful the blocks of coral. These film shows a large under- big fish are generally rather water cavern with the shy of divers, but here they remains of dead turtles. let us come quite close. Did they come here to In the strong current, it is die like elephants in an not so easy to hold on and elephant cemetery? No, at the same time control a the explanation is much large camera with a flash more simple and sad. on a long bracket. So, I am The turtles swim into the really sucking air while I lay caves and can’t find their there and battle with the way out again. So, as they equipment. Each time that can’t get up to the surface I edge myself forwards a to breath, they drown. One couple of meters against is tempted to say, “Just like the current, it seems as if divers!” After a number of the manometer needle accidents, guides stopped is counting down like the taking divers into the cave. second hand on a watch. It is now necessary to have I take a couple of shots a cave-diving certificate. and that’s it. I must begin my rise to the surface. Biology First and fore- While I hang there at my most, one notices all the safety stop and drift under sea turtles that seem to the dive boat, I can see be everywhere, otherwise down on to the plateaus it is the big fish and the on White Tip Avenue. It beautiful coral gardens on is an appropriate name. the plateaus and walls so I think that I can count characteristic of Sipadan. at least 25 white-tip reef But also noteworthy is the sharks resting there. fact that 496 species of It has been a good fish have been recorded end to yet another day at Sipadan — a much in paradise. I return home greater diversity of spe- to my lodgings on Mabul, cies than is seen in the where a warm shower and South China Sea. As a visi- a good meal are wait- tor, one is also struck by ing. I can hardly wait to the large shoals of barra- get my film developed. cuda and jackfish. Manta rays and hammerhead Turtle tomb There sharks are also frequent is a large cavern under visitors. It is also worthwhile Sipadan with skeletons of to look out for the lesser turtles. It is part of an old known smaller species and legend about the island. other creepy-crawlies. Cousteau’s film about Sipadan is situated right

TOP: A Christmas Tree Worm braves the current An abundance of marine and coral life thrives under the pier at the dive center of Sipadan Water Village BOTTOM: White and red corals at Sipadan Island

39 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Glimpses of Malaysia Sipadan

“It is never too

late to recognise LEFT TO RIGHT: An underwater photographer captures something must be images of a school of jacks under the pier of the dive center at Sipadan Water Village, a long wooden walking done to reverse the pier stretches out into the tranquil bay where bungalos rest impact of human on stilts, divers prepare to explore Paradise I and II at SWV, delicate red and white soft corals hang from the steep activities, and it is vertical walls supporting Sipadan Island a wise decision to in the middle of what is called the Indo- with a serrated edge, limit dive operators of information, it is not possible to tiated, and a deeper understanding was An investigation in 1992 showed that Pacific. The region is a great coherent whereas that of the to conduct only day go into any detail here about this obtained of the significance of the island. about a fifth of the northern reef was ecological area consisting of the Pacific soup turtle is smooth. topic but briefly it can be stated Through the 1980’s, the WWF (World affected by the latest developments, with Ocean and the Indian Ocean, which also One can normally trips to Sipadan that the low watered plateaus Wildlife Fund) was involved in several new construction work and the presence includes southern Japan, the Philippines, get very close to the by year-end.” are dominated by elkhorn and large investigations, and their results have of boats and many divers in the water. Indonesia and Australia. soup turtles. They often table corals, plate and grape laid the foundations for the environmental The reef had previously been damaged Of the turtle family, it is mainly the green appear to be crying. It WWF corals plus large leather corals. stipulations that now protect the island. by dynamite fishing, but the pratice had soup turtle, Chelonia mydas, which popu- is thought that that the (World Wide Fund for On the walls, fan corals and Between the 1930’s and 1985, it was ceased with the arrival of humans on the late the waters around Sipadan. This turtle tears they shed serve to Nature) Malaysia Borneo sponges can be seen. And, at mainly fishermen and egg collectors island. Until 1989, all the turtles that could comes to the island to lay its eggs. It can prevent their eyes from programme director Dr greater depths, black coral and who regularly visited the island. In 1985, be found were dug up and emptied of be up to 1.2 m long and weigh over 180 kg. drying out and keep Geoffrey Davison big barrel sponges dominate. Borneo Divers began dive operations their eggs. However, this led to a fall in The soup turtle is first and foremost noc- them free of sand. on the island. They were the first opera- the population of turtles and the practice turnal, and lives on sea grasses. During The majority of corals at Sipadan are History Very little is known of Sipadan’s tors to come to the island. At the start, was therefore stopped. the day it rests, and one can often in fine condition and, like the fish, a large early history. A unique and special ecolo- there was only a tent in which divers In addition to this, it has been neces- meet sleeping turtles in the corals. diversity of species is to be found. Within gy has been recognised at Sipadan since could overnight at the island. The first huts sary to regulate the use of fresh water, to There are also many loggerhead turtles, the hermatypical corals alone (these are 1933, when the island was designated came along in 1989. Then, Sabah Wildlife organise the purification of waste water Eretmochylis imbricata. It can be difficult corals that have symbiotic photosynthe- a bird reservation. It was not before the Department built a small experimental- and to establish effective waste dispos- to distinguish between the two species sising algae in their cells), over 400 spe- end of the 1970’s, however, that serious station in 1989, and in 1991 another dive al. With six resorts now based on the under the water, but the latter has a shell cies have been found. Due to the volume scientific evaluations of the reef were ini- operator arrived. island, Sipadan was not able to bear

40 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Glimpses of Malaysia Sipadan

the ecological burden in the long run. already have The diving was still spectacular, but it resorts at both was clear that it could not continue to of these alter- be so. Unfortunately, a nasty kidnap- native locations ping affair in April 2000 had a very chill- that are actual- ing effect on tourism to the area and ly rated at high- forced the government to put a tem- er standards. porary limit to the number of visitors. On Dec. 4, Originally, only one centre had per- the government rejected a request Village Resort, is mission to build on the island. But there from scuba diving resort oper- fournd on near- is a clear indication that corruption ators to be allowed to remain on by Mabul Island, and capitalistic interests have had Sipadan for another year. The Dec. where there are a large role in the development of 31 deadline remained in place for two resorts which Sipadan Island. the five operators on the island to are both cheaper Early in 2004, the Malaysian fed- vacate the popular diving spot. and of much bet- eral cabinet announced the deci- Effective on January 1st, 2005, ter quality than sion to close of all the dive resorts the government will allow only day those found on on Sipadan. Effective on the 31st of trips with a maximum limited of 80 Sipadan. There is December 2004, all five resorts on visitors. The decision is expected to also a convert- the island are required to close all strengthen Malaysia’s applica- ed oil-rig near their facilities and move elsewhere. tion for the island to be listed as a Mabul called Chief Minister Datuk Seri Musa Aman world heritage site by Unesco. Seaventures. On had stated clearly that “we are doing Kapalai Island, this to preserve the environment, Geography Between Sipadan and there is a resort thus ensuring Sipadan remains the Semporna lie the islands of Mabul on stilts, but the number one diving spot in the world. and Kapalai, which are also interest- island is so small As Mabul and Kapilai are close by, ing dive locations. There are acco- that you can this fortunately does not mean that modations for divers on both islands. hardly stand on it. These islands are Mabul is known as the place where within 15 minutes ‘muck diving’ was invented. Muck div- sailing time of each ing can best be described as diving TOP LEFT: Malaysian bananas, other, and it is easy for exciting small crawlies on the flat bottled water and packaged to dive all three plac- seabed. It is an activity that is greatly nuts are locally produced es regardles of what recommended — one can discover island upon which bizarre new creatures time after time. BOTTOM LEFT: Bungalo chimes are sold by you choose to stay. Closer to Semporna, you can dive vendors at the resort shops and roadside stalls At the moment, among the mangroves. During a long- Sipadan has six er stay in the area, divers should find TOP RIGHT: View of the dining hall resorts. They are the time for a special diving excursion to at Sipadan Water Village Resort most expensive in the the mangroves. It is a different diving MID RIGHT: Handmade straw baskets, wood area, since they are environment with interesting natural flutes and trinkets are sold at open markets located on Sipadan finds that are unique to the mangrove Island, the target of ecosystem. BOTTOM RIGHT: Bags of rice, beans, peanuts, diving in the area straw hats, fresh pinapples and hanging — “the real thing.” Evaluation fruit fill the stalls at open air markets Considering the Can you take the children or inex- lodging prices, the perienced divers to Sipadan? Yes, standard of these and even though it must be acknowl- divers are excluded from visiting the accommodations is disappointing. edged that the diving is mostly for island. Many of Sipadan’s operators My favorite location, Sipadan Water feinschmecker and those interested

41 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED factMalaysia file

Capital Kuala Lumpur Area 330.000 squ. km Malaysia consists of the southern part of the Malay peninsula together with Sarawak and Sabah on northern Borneo. In recent years the country has enjoyed a considerable economic growth, and has declared its intention of achieving the status of an I-land, or first world nation, in 2020. It has a population of 22 million, of which 53% are Sunni-Muslims, 17% Buddhists, 11% Taoists, 8% Neon bright dive gear and BCDs dry very quickly under the tropical sun as they lay Christians 8%, and 7% Hindus. The strewn on the pier at the dive center at Sipadan Water Village Resort average life expectancy is 71 years. Ethnic grouping include in nature, it is not difficult in itself — that keys, go trekking on Mount Kinabalu, Malays 59%, Chinese 32% and is, if you don’t jump down into a strong white-water rafting in Saba, or visit SIPADAN Indians 9%. Tropical, with a south- it is advisable to contact your current, or dive too deep, or go into the orangutan reservation at Sepilok. Climate Borneo Sea Adventures west monsoon in May-June and a own doctor or the State Serum caves for which you have no training. www.bornsea.com the official north-east monsoon in October- Institute before travelling. On the other hand, the experienced Language Borneo Divers & Sea Sports Visibility and Current language is Malay (Bahasa February. www.borneodivers.info diver can find numerous challenges Visibility at most of the diving locations Malaysia). Other languages: Methods of payment Adventure Journey World Travel here. Nitrox and technical diving are near to the coast decreases greatly Chinese, English and Tamil. Electricity 220 V, 50 Hz. The BIG CITIES: ATMs. VISA, Master- www.borneo.org/ajwt available on the neighbouring island of after rain because sediment is swept English is widespread. plugs are of the British type. card, American Express accept- Sipadan Dive Centre Sdn Bhd Mabul, where many photographers will out into the sea. But at Sipadan, which Ordinary European plugs require ed. RURAL AREAS: Cash only. Tips www.mattasabah.com/sipadandive also be pleased to find E-6 developing. rises directly from the ocean bed, vis- Currency Malay Ringit (RM). adaptors loaned out at hotels. if any, are usually included in It is rather a question of whether or ibility is generally quite unaffected by Exchange rate: 1 RM=.26 USD hotel and restaurant bills. KAPALAI & SIPADAN not you want to spend your money on rainfall, and a visibility of under 30 m or .20 EUR; GNP per capita: US$ Health Public hospitals accept Pulau Sipadan Resort & Tours a travelling companion who perhaps is a rarity. One can dive at Sipadan 3.890; Income: agriculture 42%, tourists in the case of accidents. Travel agents/tourism www.mattasabah.com might not be able to really understand the whole year, but the visibility can service 39%, industry 19% But talk to your travel agent Sabah Tourism & Promotion and appreciate Sipadan. When all is change greatly from one day to the about travel insurance. European www.sabahtourism.com SARAWAK said and done, it costs a great deal next. Entry requirements national health insurance certifi- Sabah Hotel Association (SHA) Sarawak Tourism Board more to go to Sipadan Island, than say, There can be strong currents around Passport valid for six months cates are not valid for travel out- www.borneo-online.com.my/hotel www.sarawaktourism.com staying a week at the Red Sea, due to Sipadan, or there can be none. required. Visas are issued on side Europe. Vaccinations are not the cost of air travel to a desination half Especially around Barracuda Point arrival at no cost. Weapons or required at present, unless one is Dive-operators/resorts SABAH way around the world. and South Point, there can be quite a walkie-talkies are not permitted. arriving from an area where yel- MABUL Sepilok Nature Resort But everyone, whatever their level of ‘storm’ under the water, which requires Smuggling of narcotics is punish- low fever has been confirmed. Sipadan-Mabul Resort * sepilok.com competence, will bring home the expe- good physical condition of divers. But able by death in both Malaysia According to the local authorities, www.sipadan-mabul.com.my rience of a lifetime. Especially so if you good visibility and good captains on and Singapore. cholera and malaria have mostly Sipadan Water Village Resort * Resort has nitrox and trimix round off the trip with an excursion into the dive boats make it easy to go on an been eradicated in the area. But www.swvresort.com See directory page for more info the jungle to see the proboscis mon- entertaining current-dive. ■

42 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED There are 28 recognised Ecology anemonefish species and ten species of host sea anemones. All anemonefish species are obligate symbionts of one or The tale about more host anemones in Edited by Michael Arvedlund tropical and subtropical

‘NEMO’ FROM FINDING NEMO BY DISNEY/PIXAR FILMS coastal waters. Nemo’s& ClownfishNose Chemistry

Even before the oceans. However, out of host species only, to the gen- gested that the tentacles of clownfish achieved nearly 1000 species of sea eralist Clark’s anemonefish, the particular anemones do anemones, only 10 are host (Amphiprion clarkii), which not contain nematocysts but Hollywood stardom to anemone fishes. These occurs with all ten hosts. all 10 host species are quite as cartoon charac- are found in the parts of the typical in this regard. It has ter Nemo, most of Indian and Pacific Oceans Nematocysts Sea anem- been mentioned that the us, divers and non- that lie within the tropics, or ones are related to corals, fish may not actually touch where warm tropical waters jellyfish and hydra. Together the tentacles. But while this is divers alike, knew are carried by currents. they make up the phylum true for some Caribbean fish about this little color- Consequently, we find the cnidaria. A common trait that seek protection behind ful fish nesting in a associated clownfish in the for the cnidaria are nema- and under sea anemones, stinging sea anemo- same places. The anemones tocysts, the harpoon-like as most divers will know that are host to clownfishes stinging capsules that give clownfish do swim among ne. As popular pho- must live in sunny places. jellyfish their sting, fire coral tentacles, and in fact sleep tographic subjects They exist only in shallow their burn, and the tentacles on the oral disc at night. the symbiotic rela- water, because within the of some sea anemones their Another suggestion was that cells of an anemone’s tenta- stickiness. Within each cap- the skin of anemone fishes tionship between the cles and oral disc live micro- sule is coiled a fine thread- is thicker than normal so fish and their inver- scopic algae, which, like all like tubule many times the nematocysts cannot pen- tebrate hosts have plants, require sunlight for capsule’s length. When the etrate it, but this is not the become one of the photosynthesis. In this proc- capsule is stimulated to fire, case, the skin of clownfish ess, sugars are produced the tube shoots out — invert- differs little in thickness from most well known from carbon dioxide and ing like the sleeve of a coat that of other fishes, and may images from the water. Some of these sugars turned inside out — to pen- even be slightly thinner than world beneath the fuel the algae’s own metab- etrate or wrap around the that of the damselfish. Also, surface. What is less olism, but most of them target. Nematocysts function as mentioned below an “leak” to the anemone, pro- in prey capture and many unprotected anemonefish known, however, is viding energy to it. This is, by can inject toxins, which are can indeed be killed by its how the fish avoid the way, another example delivered to predator and being stung. PHOTO BY PETER SYMES of symbiosis. prey by or through the evert- his is the tale about an fish. But the clownfish also pro- one very aggresively. They ing tubule. The threads are Todd relationship that not tects the anemone against will fearlessly nibble at divers There are 28 species of clown- frequently armed with spines Nematocyst. Text by Michael Arvedlund only works, but also is neces- being preyed upon by the hands and poke at lenses. fish and they all exhibit unique that aid in puncturing a hole Upon discharge, & Peter Symes sary at least on the part of butterflyfish. As most divers, patterns of association with in the prey. the coiled Photos by Peter Symes, the clownfish, which in nature who have the experience of Not plants Sea anemo- host sea anemones in nature. Over the years, many biol- thread bores it Michael Aw, Edwin Marcow is never found without an taking a closer look at clown- nes, which contrary to their It ranges from the extreme ogists have wondered how way into the tis- & Malaysia Tourism anemone whose stinging ten- fish in an anemone, will testify, name are not plants but specialist, the spine-cheek it is possible for the clownfish sue of the prey, tacle offers them protection these fish are quite territorial animals related to corals, anemonefish (Premnas biac- to adapt to such a hostile injecting a toxin from becoming prey of larger and will protect their anem- live throughout the world’s uleatus), which lives with one embrace. It has been sug- with a paralyzing action

43 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED ecology

Nemo’s& More ClownfishNose Chemistry

host’s sting. Finally it has been suggested largely unclear. Several hypotheses exist, motions, first touching that while a fish is present, the anemone though they are not mutually exclusive. the anemone with its will not fire its nematocysts. But although ventral fins only, then a sea anemone seems to be able to Protection What seems to be the mat- exposing its entire have some control over its firing, it still ter, is that clownfish somehow acquire belly. This process may stings and captures prey while harbour- or elicit protection, and that this protec- take a few minutes or ing clownfish. tion can also disappear again. In experi- several hours but in the The biochemical details remain ments in aquaria where the clownfish end the clownfish is ambiguous. What we do know is that has been separated from its host anem- able to dive right in. some anemone fish species have one for more than a few days or weeks, evolved resistance to toxins secreted by when the partners are then reunited and Who? So, is it the fish host anemones, but the essential protec- the fish swims into the host’s tentacles, or the anemone that is tion from the nematocysts stems from it withdraws rapidly, appearing to have responsible for the pro- the anemone fish skin mucus. Anemone been stung. tection? A clownfish fishes are innately protected from some Depending on the species involved, which has been living anemone species but must acclimatise this reaction is sometimes very obvi- alone will be stung by to live with others. Most anemone fishes ous. However, a stung anemone fish an anemone already are stung by unnatural hosts, i.e. hosts will return to its host and carefully and harbouring another they do not live with in nature. However, gradually expose itself to the anemones clownfish. It seems that the protection mechanism remains tentacles through elaborate stereotyped the protective agent

resides in the mucus PHOTO BY EDWIN MARCOW. DIGITAL IMAGING BY PETER SYMES coating that anemone fishes, like all fishes, have on their sur- entists who believe that the presence only 20 minutes to acclimate to a real face. But what is the source of this proof protective mucus is the result of the anemone, whereas the acclimatization tective mucus? It has been speculated fish being protected and not cause. time being directly exposed to a real that when contact between the clown- According to their beliefs the fish’s own host anemone was two and a half hours. fish and anemone is initially made, the mucus has evolved to lack components It appears that the mere perception of fish smears mucus from the anemone all that stimulate nematocyst discharge, what seems to be a host anemone elicit over itself. And just as the sea anemone and the observed “acclimatization” the fish to produce an especially protec- does not sting itself, the fish is thereby behaviour just an artifact of artificially tive mucus, but since it must still undergo chemically camouflaged: it is, essen- separating animals that normally never a period of acclimatization, that alone tially, a fish in anemone’s clothing. The are parted. The secret to clownfishes’ does not suffice. It seems necessary fish’s normal behaviour of returning to its peculiar habitat, according to this inter- that the anemone alters or adds to the anemone at least once a minute can pretation, is their unusual biochemistry. mucus somehow. ■ be interpreted as serving to maintain its However, experiments have provided protective layer of mucus. According to evidence that both fish and anemone RECOMMENDED READING: this theory, what allows clownfishes to may be active in forming the sym- DAPHNE G. FAUTIN AND GERALD R. ALLEN. live in this peculiar habitat is their unusual biosis for at least one combination of 1997. FIELD GUIDE TO ANEMONEFISHES AND behaviour. fish and anemone species. A fish kept THEIR HOST SEA ANEMONES. REVISED EDITION. in an aquarium with a surrogate sea WESTERN AUSTRALIAN MUSEUM, PERTH, PP 160. However, not all biologists subscribe anemone made of rubber bands glued ELECTRONIC VERSION: HTTP://BIODIVERSITY. to this hypothetis. There are other sci- to a Petri dish required an average of UNO.EDU/EBOOKS/INTRO.HTML PHOTO COURTESY OF ‘MALAYSIA’

44 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED ecology

Chemical imprinting may be more widespread among reef fishes than was previously thought Red Sea Dive Tours Exotic Isles Egypt

PHOTO BY MICHAEL AW

Nemo’s& More ClownfishNose Chemistry

Text by Michael Arvedlund umn, not even a millimetre away. covered by a hungry predator. Once Clownfish find their hosts by By good memory, and a keen sense the fish reach a coral reef, the search is remembering their smell, which of smell, juvenile clownfish can quickly on for a suitable host sea anemone to drifts over them as embryos. track down a suitable sea anemone by take them under its protective tentacles. Sea anemones have long been known smelling their way to the perfume, when Not all of them will be fortunate enough Atlantis Travel’s World of Experiences to release very powerful olfactory com- they settle on the reef two weeks later. to find one, and the unlucky ones will pounds, which might best be described Earlier American and Japanese research end up on the menu of many larger on the fate of reef fish larvae established fish or invertebrates on the reef. But for Red Sea Boat Tours, adventure travel & family vacations as perfumes. It seems that Clownfish — enjoy Sharm el Sheikh’s beaches, crystal-clear water, become ‘addicted’ to the perfume as that clownfish larvae emerge from the the lucky surviving ones, the smell they sun and sightseeing year round. an embryo in the egg, lying next to the egg case after seven to nine days, and instinctively remember is their passport to immediately swim to the surface. They safety. Dive Travel We arrange dive trips, dive courses and dive sea anemone covered in perfume-like cruises to locations the world over. compounds it releases. This hypothesis swim around in the ocean, sometimes This chemical imprinting may be more had to be proved underwater by locat- drifting with the currents, vulnerable to widespread among reef fishes than is Exotic Isles Honeymoons or just a romantic cruise to the Maldives, Mauritius, The Seychelles, Bali or Lombok. ing a lot of clownfish egg-clutches nes- the environment, and feeding on plank- thought, and smell the trigger which ton. leads most fish to coral reefs when they tled by host anemones. Over several Egyptian Culture Tours Cultural travel, Nile cruises and weeks of successful dive-investigations, After two weeks, the juvenile clown- come to settle. It is thought that olfac- round trip travel, Egypt offers fantastic sightseeing. we observed about 40 pairs of clownfish fishes are about a centimetre long and tory cues, perhaps released from cor- ready to settle on the reef. This always als, similar to the perfume released from with egg-clutches and, without excep- atlantis Rejser A/S tion, they had all placed their clutch happens in the middle of the night, sea anemones, might be the trigger for Frederiksberg Alle 44 when there is less chance of being dis- many juvenile coral reef fish to settle. ■ DK-1820 Frederiksberg C right next to their host anemone’s col- Tlf.: +45 70 22 48 40 e-mail: [email protected] www.atlantisrejser.dk

45 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED THE FACTS AND VIEWPOINTS IN THIS SECTION ARE NOT NECESSARILY THE VIEWS OF X-RAY MAG. EQUIPMENT www.seadesigns.com PRESENTED IN THIS SECTION HAS NOT BEEN TESTED BY X-RAY $110 USD MAG STAFF, NOR ARE THE ITEMS WARRANTED, INFORMA- Quotes & Comments TION PROVIDED IS CONDENSED FROM MANUFACTURERS DESCRIPTIONS. TEXTS ARE USUALLY EDITED FOR LENGTH, CLAR- Professor Negropante on ITY AND STYLE LINKS ACTIVE AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATIONS ‘Featuritis’ in software

“The speed and performance of software worsens with each succeed- New & Interesting ing release because of featuritis, the Edited by tendency to bloat new releases with Andrey Bizuykin features and options that monopolize & Peter Symes the hardware’s improved speed and memory. What you actually get is 10 Equipment different ways to do the same thing, with fewer and fewer of them intuitively obvious. Bloatware keeps the costs of computers, phones and other devices basically the same, thanks to featuritis. Users should reject the attitude that they are stupid, and that machines must be built the way they are.”

“Simplicity should be a rule of thumb for mainstream products, while dedicated, special-purpose devices could be created for consumers of advanced features by adapting software to make the hardware act in different ways. The long-term strategy is to imbue computers with common sense.”

“Simpler machines can be much less expensive, and while consumers, I Ellipse Alaska Cressi presents a Third Generation Even before MM III is a perfect choice for the begin- iPod u/w believe, want this badly, the manufac- H20 Audio is new version of the Ellipse Titanium, for this new ‘III’, Sea & Seas Motormarine ning photographer. Advanced features turers have little interest in making this launching the first divers who mainly use regulators in cold series was already a true classic, and like strobe bracketing control and push- underwater cas- happen because the high end of any water. The MC7 diaphragm first stage the new generation of Motor Marine button shutter speed control provide ing for the Apple market is more profitable.” comes with the Cressi antifreeze kit looks more than capable of living up to creative freedom for the experienced iPod. The H20 that completely seals off the external the reputation of its forebears. The III is photographer. All the controls of the MM SV-iMini will ship Nicholas Negroponte is the Wiesner Professor of elements of the first stage from con- more rugged and offers more controls III are on the top or back of the camera for $150 USD. The casing Media Technology at the Massachusetts Institute tact with water. The second stage is than ever before. With features like two making them easier to read and oper- allows for underwater dial and push button access to of Technology and founding chairman of MIT’s identical to the one used in the Ellipse point focus for fast reliable focusing and ate. Price in the U.K. £844 / $1486 USD / a maximum of 10 feet (3 Meters) and full protection in Media Laboratory. In 1995, he published The Titanium. www.cressisub.com a target light for accurate framing, the €1219 EUR. www.seaandsea.com wind and rain conditions. www.h2oaudio.com New York Times bestseller, Being Digital, which has been translated into over 40 languages. In the private sector, Professor Negroponte serves On the grapevine Due to be realeased on on the board of directors for Motorola, Inc. March 1 is Mares new concept of “Limited Edition”. According to a recent pressrelease dive equipment can now be custommade to order. The Italian Sea & Sea On-line The comprehensive program is designed exclu- return to the site as often as they want, whenever manufacturer is responding to a slowing market by Photography Course sively for owners of the Sea & Sea MX-10 System. they want, wherever they might be on the globe. putting out equipment such as regulators and bcds The entire MX-10 system is covered along with As long as photographers have web access, they in limited numbers of max 2,000 numbered pieces Sea & Sea introduces a novel approach popular Sea & Sea accessories including the can review needed skills or techniques from an each. Number 0001 in each series can’t be ordered to underwater photography training: Close-Up Lens, Macro Lens, 20mm Wide Lens exotic resort, live-aboard or from the comfort of and the Fiber-Optic System. The course is easily their home. but it will be offered the highest bidder in an auc- The MX-10 On-line Photography Course taught by underwater imaging expert, accessible through a password protected area. The price is $29.95 USD tion and the proceeds will go to a charity Marty Snyderman. Students have one year after their initial session to www.seaandsea.com

46 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Slate Slip A 2 or 3 pocketed, arm mounted slate holder. The diver can carry, and easily view more than one table or run time. Elasticated straps and Velcro fastening on pockets. Inside pocket size 10cms x 14cms SRP: £18.00 www.bowstonediving.com Archimede New style for the casing of this instrument, with coloured inserts to improve its look. The strap is also new, with stretch inserts to absorb the F2 Pouch Set - Battery Primetime Scubapro-Uwatec writes: tThe Aladin squeeze of the suit deep down. Pack and Lamp Holder PRIME is the NEW Uwatec computer for recrea- www.cressi-sub.it This packet contains a pouch to tional divers with an array of features that compete carry the battery pack, 1 strap to go with other manufacturers’ top end products. This around the bottle and an elasticised new computer is easy enough to use for anyone holder on a quick pull Velcro tab. who is new to diving but at the same time has the ... and PC interface SRP: £15.00. www.bowstonediving.com A completely new inter- necessary, advanced features to satisfy the more face both in terms of advanced diver. www.scubapro.co.uk software and hardware. The hardware uses a new clamp that is easy and Manta-Bite Do you surface from ArmorProducts In or out, it’s up quick to position onto the your dive with ach- to you where you want to keep water. computer contacts, to download the data to the ing jaws and teeth? This dry boat backpack keeps your Well, Manta-Bite gear dry even in a wet boat environ- PC (USB port). With the software you can create a comprehensive could be the ment, and keeps your car and cloths electronic logbook, with lots of information answer to your dry from wet gear you pack away in inserted automatically and other data that pain. Unlike other the backpack after a dive. The pack the user can insert manually. There is also a “orthodontic” features touch PVC rubber coated sophisticated simulator for dives using air or mouth pieces, this unique design uses your cheeks, tapaulin material, 100% non-corrossive hyper-oxygenated mixes, which makes it an not your teeth, to keep the mouthpiece in place. PK zippers, contoured backpack straps extraordinarily effective educational tool. This greatly reduces pain from jaw gripping as well with BCD style D rings, detachable with as wear and tear on the mouthpiece itself. This will especially help divers with TMJ problems, remov- dry hidden pocket, regulator pock- able dental appliances, missing back teeth or et, padded with access from inside Shark These diving car emblems display underwater with way more class than any dentures. It’s the most comfortable mouthpiece for extra protection, continuous “Divers do it deeper” bumper sticker. on the market. www.manta-bite.com loop webbing for maximum dura- Stick it to your car, boat or computer bility, roomy size: 26” long x 18” - the Dolphin Diver emblem will make wide x 12” deep, and 6,000 cubic a big splash with all your dive bud- inches of storage space. dies all over the world. Fabricated www.armorbags.com out of a high quality polymer Signs of Success™ emblems are made to withstand car washes, road salts, and sunlight for years of indoor or outdoor display without fading or discoloration. The plaques are approximately 6” long and 2 1/4” tall and come with a strip of foam adhesive tape. From $8.95 www.signsofsharks.com

New Analyst 4.01 tures for the more advanced It also supports both USB and EMC-16, Commander EMC-20H or soon will be available in the • Script Files Analyst 4.01 is available diver. Analyst 4.01 is capable serial port interface proto- and the Cochran Gemini, but Professional edition are: • Half-Time Compartments Graph in a Standard edition for of checking for edition updates cols. Dan Export files for Diver not the Nemesis series or the • Blending Wizard • Parametric Cloning the recreational diver and automated registra- Exploration are Level 3. Analyst Commander Plus, Commander • Planning/Simulator (200 m) • Flight Data Recorder and a Professional edition/activation when the P.C. 4.01 supports the Cochran Nitrox and the Gemini Plus. • Inter-Dive Event Profiling Download the Demo tion with added fea- is connected to the internet. Commander, Commander Additional features that are, • Confined Water Protocol Edition of Analyst 4.01

47 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Halcyon Apollo HMI Video Lighting. Rebreather Wings Custom Introducing the world’s first portable under- Divers has launched the Variable water studio lighting system, the Apollo HMI. Buoyancy System. This dedicat- The same quality and intensity of lighting ed rebreather wing has extra that you would expect to find in a stu- width allowing for the wing to dio HMI lighting system, only capable of inflate properly. The VBS has extreme depths independent of any sur- three zippable compartments face-supplied power source. around the outside of the wing. By incoporating Halcyon’s Helios The compartments (which NiMH battery technology into the are completely independ- Apollo HMI’s design, Halcyon has ent of one another) expand, been able to shrink the canister size offering the diver variable Resin body Sea and down to less than a “standard” 14 buoyancy capability, whilst Seas new Video Light is com- amp hour lead acid primary light the elasticated cordless side pact, lightweight and made of canister. The new NiMH Apollo panels allow for controlled synthetic resin body. HMI is one-third the size of the even deflation. The design of The LX-15, installed with a 15-watt 4.8 V original Apollo HMI, with a long- the neck section ensures that halogen lamp has a continuous burn time er burn time. the breathing loop and hoses of 40 minutes (when using Ni-MH 2,400 www.halcyon.net are not caught and snagged, mAh battery), Ni-MH batteries sold on the no matter what position the wing market can be used, so there is no need to is bolted onto the back box. Divers also carry around exclusively-designed battery a benefit from 4 D Rings attached to the charger. Equipped with a newly-designed Tech Pouch with Wing, making mounting accessories an reflector, with a beam angle of 70° even Scissors Good sized pouch light from the center to the edges without a From Cressi, a new mask that easier task. www.customdivers.com Perla with a D ring sewn inside, a hotspot can be maintained, making the LX- copies the lines of the Focus. It has zipped opening and a velcro 15 very suitable as a video light. separate lenses, a skirt edge that front pocket for extra storage. www.seaandsea.com adapts well to most faces and a Will slide onto 50mm webbing. much smaller inner volume. It is Size 24cm x 24cm x made from soft, transparent or 9cm. Complete dark silicone, and comes with Greenforce The info at with a pair of strong and quick action buckles the manufacturers website is stainless steel scis- to adjust the strap. It is particu- rather compact: 6 Volt (NiMh sors in a pouch, larly suitable for free diving or 5 x 4,5 Ah). STD6 (Xenophot 20 ‘K-19 submarine’ Vostok sewn to the font. snorkelling, but is just as appro- Watt) Burn time: 75’. incl. han- Amphibia automatic retro look SRP: £50.00 at priate for scuba diving. dle and slow charger. Total length Waterproof 200 m screwed head. www.bowstone- 180mm. Weight in air 1100 gr. Round shape solid case, size is 39 x 12 www.cressisub.com diving.com Weight in water 630 gr. mm. All stainless steel case. Rotating www.green-force.com bezel with markings. Band width 18 mm Stainless steel bracelet. Price ea. 54.00 USD www.russian- time.com

Pressrelease: Suunto D9 Suunto, the diving instru- tion related to AIDA diving profiles of the record dives tion on the record attempts. becomes the ment market leader events for which the Suunto can be monitored afterwards. AIDA will publish all suc- Suunto and official AIDA worldwide, and AIDA, the D9 has been chosen as the Due to a sampling rate as low cessful world record dive Aida announce depth instru- International Association for the official depth instrument. As as 1 second, and 200 meter profiles using the Suunto Dive cooperation ment Development of Free Diving, result of the co-operation, for depth display, the Suunto D9 Manager PC-software. have engaged in a co-opera- the first time ever, the exact can produce detailed informa-

48 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Ikelite JVC DZ7 housing. A delightful compact size housing and camera allows you to capture the moment with the latest digital video technology, including digital stills that can be printed or sent as electronic mail. Molded of clear polycarbonate to provide seamless construction and cor- rosion proof performance. This “Clearly Superior” design provides full view of the camcorder, control functions, and assurance the system is safe. Changing SUUNTO SAFETY NOTICE ABOUT between video and stills underwater THE NEW D9 COMPUTER. requires only the flip of a switch. Link:

Sample digital still photo. The housing operates safely to 200 feet. The hous- Suunto production tests have ing lens port is threaded for 67mm wide found a software fault in the first angle lenses of Inon and Epoque. series of Suunto D9 computers www.ikelite.com (products with serial numbers 4xxxxxxxx - 450000699, software version 1.x.x - 1.2.4). Suunto Pelican case The new 1610 advice is that the above num- case will be the toughest and big- bered D9 computers are not gest airline-legal carry-on case on dived with before a software the market. Complete with side update has been made. handle, front handle and convenient extension handle, it will be the Although highly unlikely, the perfect rolling travel companion. An added value to this case is fault may under certain cir- the effortless release latch for cumstances cause the depth the extension handle. Also, the and time display to update padlock protectors provide slower than normal. Any poten- added strength and extra secu- tial problems are avoided by rity against cutting and theft. upgrading the D9 software to www.pelican.com version 1.2.8. There have been no reports of users experiencing this fault.

Sea Eagle II - Dual Bladder Wing from pockets. The Sea Eagle II Northern Diver. Each of the independent incorporates a chest strap bladders comes with its own power inflator and crotch strap in conjunc- and fitted with a shoulder pull-cord dump tion with the internal cum- and an auxiliary rear kidney dump. The merbund, making it one of the stainless steel backplate with comfort most comfortable and functional pad makes the Sea Eagle ideal for single jackets on the market. Sizes: M, L, or twin cylinder rigs. 2 front utility pock- XL. Stainless Steel Twinning Bands ets, mounted on the waist straps, have and Manifold Available. velcro flaps, top and bottom, and www.northerndiver.com can be used as easy-ditch secondary weight pouches or as conventional

Free Scuba Buoyancy for instructional purposes. Simulator Software Click on the download links below to download either a This FREE program simulates Macintosh or Windows ver- some of the effects of div- sion of the program: ing with SCUBA. Some of the • Macintosh effects are exaggerated • Windows

49 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Coming titles Movies Calfornia DVD media Calfornia marine life identification Books, Film, DVDs, CDs Hammerhead Press Edited by Peter Symes Hosted by Kristine Barsky, a profession- & Michael Symes al marine biologist, with over 30 years of diving experience. Learn how to disney.go.com identify many of the most common POINT & CLICK ON BOLD LINKS marine creatures seen underwater Aliens of the deep in 3D off the California coast. More than A 45 minute 3D film, directed by James 80 species of marine plants and ani- Cameron. Academy Award winning Sea Turtles mals are included in this program. director James Cameron takes audi- Sea Turtles: A complete Guide www.hammerheadpress.com ences to the bottom of the ocean to A Story of Exploration to their Biology, Behavior, and encounter some of the strangest life Compass: A story of exploration and inno- Conservation, by James R forms on Earth, while inviting us to imag- vation, by Alan Gurney Spotila, Hardcover: 224 pages, ine what future explorers may someday The Johns Hopkins University Hardcover: 288 pages, W. W. find on other planets. Aliens of the Deep Press; ISBN: 0801880076. $24.95 Totally Wrecked DVD Playing time: 60 minutes, Produced by Full Circle Norton & Company; ISBN: For more than a hundred million years, sea tur- presents the highlights of more than 40 Productions. £14.99 0393050734. $22.95 tles have been swimming in the world’s oceans. dives made to the Mid-Ocean Ridge, The DVD follows the Full Circle Wrecks team as they Centuries ago, a Having escaped the mass extinction that wiped a submerged chain of mountains that dive the World’s top ten shipwrecks. Included are sailor’s direc- out the dinosaurs, these ancient reptiles today winds 46,000 miles around the globe. all the best dives on each wreck, information on the tional aids face new dangers that threaten their survival. operators and, of course, the slightly wilder side of a Marine biologist Spotila has spent much of his life were Full Circle Expedition. Follow the team as they have unraveling the mysteries of these creatures and winds a close encounter with killer whales in New Zealand, working to ensure their survival. In Sea Turtles, he and vision. explore an ancient Maori cave system, find human offers a comprehensive and compelling account Until the remains in Truk, experience real drama in the engine of their history and life cycle based on the most compass was room of a wreck in Grenada, and dive the clearest recent scientific data - and suggests what we can water on earth outside the polar ice caps. developed in the do now to save them. Sea Turtles is illustrated with www.fullcircleexpeditions.com 12th century, maps stunning color photographs by the world’s leading and charts could not nature photographers. www.amazon.com be used with accuracy, but early discoveries that lodestone could Disaster at sea Where to go Sharks 3D mag- Cry from the Deep: The Sinking of the submarine Kursk, Dive – The Ultimate Guide to 60 of A new 3D IMAX movie. Jean-Michel netize Ramsey Flynn, Hardcover: 282 pages, HarperCollins; the Word’s Top Dive Locations Cousteau, the United Nations Environment a needle ISBN: 0066211719. $25.95 Monty Halls, Paperback: 320 pages, Programme and 3D Entertainment joined were followed A superb account of the loss of the Russian submarine Ultimate Sports Publications Ltd; forces with this new 3D film that offers by a large number of Kursk in the Barents Sea in August 2000. Torpedoes ISBN: 0954519914. £20.00 an astonishing, up-close three-dimension- devices. In 1901, the containing hydrogen peroxide exploded in the Kursk, Authoritative, in-depth reporting on al encounter with nature’s ultimate, yet magnetic compass was causing a blast registering 4.2 on the Richter scale, 60 of the world’s top dive locations, endangered predator while delivering a finally replaced by the sinking the submarine. A few of the crew survived including detailed accounts of the compelling conservation message. The film gyrocompass. Yet despite the explosions, but they probably did not live more best dives and marine life at each brings the viewer face to face with a mul- 20th-century technologi- than a few hours longer. Flynn reconstructs what location. This guide is packed full of titude of the world’s great shark species, cal upgrades, the mag- he can of the fate of the submarine. The Russian practical dive information and well- including the Great White, Whale Shark netic compass still remains Northern Fleet failed to recognize the obvious designed data tables that enable and Hammerhead. Audiences experi- a fail-safe measure. This signs of an accident, and failed to take any con- the reader to identify key facts easi- ence them as they truly are in their natural book relates the intensely structive action. They also failed to inform politi- ly and quickly. It is totally up-to-date www.amazon.co.uk habitat: not wicked man-eating creatures, interesting search to perfect cal superiors, and didn’t allow any cooperation and well presented in a large page format that allows space for over but wild, fascinating, and highly endan- that essential navigational with the efficient rescue gear of the NATO 300 stunning colour photographs and high quality mapping of each gered animals. The film, shot on location in device, the compass, its history navies. Russian officials were then caught in location. It tells you everything you need to know about water temper- Guadalupe Island, Socorro Island and the up to modern times being filled several outright lies. Several critical hours were lost ature, visibility, local dive centres, dive governing bodies, conservation Sea of Cortez, Malpelo Island, the Red Sea, with the stories of disasters that as fleet commanders failed to report that something dreadful and important safety information, with useful telephone numbers and Sodwana Bay, Mozambique Channel and befell sailors who misused appeared to have happened to one of its boats. This sealed the websites as well as general information about the geography of each Rangiroa Atoll, consists uniquely of under- it. www.amazon.com fate of those still alive in the submarine. www.amazon.com location, local culture, visa requirements and how to get there. water footage. sharks3d.com

50 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED U.S.National Parks Movies Diving and Snorkelling the National Parks A travel companion for diving and snorkeling in the media National Parks. by Daniel F Lenihan, Paperback: 272 Books, Film, DVDs, CDs pages, Fodor’s Travel Publications; ISBN: 0679033866 £17.35 (Sales of this book help to support the National Parks). Essentially a companion for divers and snorkelers which explains how and where to dive. It also details things to see and do for non-divers. The guide covers the North Atlantic, North Carolina Parks, Florida Parks, Virgin Islands, South-Central, Great Lakes, Rocky Looking for Mountains, Pacific Northwest, California, Hawaii, Pacific Territories and Alaska. It includes shipwreck a calendar? diving off Cape Hatteras, Isle Royale, Fire Island, GUE’s 2005 Calendar and elsewhere; kelp forests in the Channel Islands; Global Underwater and underwater geysers in Yellowstone. Also underwater archaeological sites such as remains of Explorer’s 2005 Spanish galleons in the Dry Tortugas, a Union war- Calendar is now on ship off Cape Hatteras, and a ranch house in Lake sale. $17.99 + shipping. Amistad. www.amazon.com This is the perfect gift for anyone who loves diving. The calendar, 8½ x 11 in, fea- New DVD: Boat tures amazing photos from lifeaquatic.movies.go.com David Evans, Andrew Georgitsis, & Wreck Diving UWP Help Claudio Provenzani, David The Simple Guide to Boat and Wreck Essentials of underwater photography Rhea, Anthony Rue, Sonya Tittle, Diving, 45 minutes, Hammerhead Robert M Jackson, Hardcover: 88 pages, Best The Life Aquatic and Gary Woods. The calendar Press, $17.95. www.hammerhead- Publishing Company; ISBN: 0941332772. $21.00. Internationally famous oceanogra- will remind you of why we live press.com. This video provides www.amazon.com Underwater photography pher Steve Zissou (Bill Murray) and to dive on those dull days spent divers with important insights, tips is challenging, even in the age of autofocus his crew, Team Zissou, set sail on an between time in the water. This is a thirteen month and details about boat and wreck and TTL cameras. This book illustrates these expedition to hunt down the myste- calendar, January 2005 - January 2006. www.gue.com diving. Filmed by Steve and Kristine concepts with brilliant color photographs, rious, elusive, possibly non-existant Barsky, it contains extensive infor- each of which is accompanied by an expla- Jaguar Shark that killed Zissou’s part- mation on diving from large charter nation of exactly how it was accomplished. ner during the documentary filming boats, small boat operations, wreck This book stresses basic knowledge needed to of their latest adventure. They are diving gear, and wreck exploration. produce high quality images. Both beginning joined on their voyage by a young The video is an ideal supplement to and experienced underwater photographers airline co-pilot who may or may not any training agency’s educational will benefit from the presentation of practical be Zissou’s son (Owen Wilson), a programs, or as a stand-alone intro- suggestions and realistic solutions for making beautiful journalist (Cate Blanchett) duction for new divers who are photographs with housed 35 mm cameras, assigned to write a profile of Zissou, interested in learning about these specialties prior to enrolling in training. macro or wide angle lenses, and strobe light- and Zissou’s estranged wife and co- The underwater portions of the wreck diving program were shot on the ing. A glossary of important photographic producer, Eleanor (Anjelica Huston). wrecks of the Yukon and Ruby E, off San Diego’s Mission Bay. terms is included, as well as straightforward They face overwhelming complica- and comprehensive explanations of useful tions including pirates, kidnapping, The Magnetic Island Underwater 2005 calendar is a collection of images optical concepts, lenses, cameras, film and and bankruptcy. 1 hr. 58 minutes from Magnetic Island in the Great strobe lighting. Barrier Reef Heritage area of Australia. It highlights the special nature of the X-RAY rEVIEW As the author says, it is the rare diver The data for each dive site is divided reefs and promotes Reef EcoTours. Diving the San Juans who has never been disappointed in a into four sections: habitat and depth, dive It is printed at A4 landscape size, This, the first of a series of detailed prac- dive site because it did not contain the profile, directions, and hazards. Apart on 160gsm gloss paper and spiral Dareld Clark tical guides to diving locations, covers variety of plant or animal life that he or from information about a specific site wire bound along the top edge. Accord Communications Ltd over sixty dive locations within the San It sells for $22 wholesale, $25 she had hoped to see. One of the purpos- there is also much of general interest to ISBN: 0945265182. pp 135, ca. Juan Islands. It is fully illustrated with retail which includes postage. es of this book, therefore, is to help you to be found here. All-in-all, then, this guide A5 format, spiral bound plant and animal life native to the Puget magnetictimes.com select dives sites based on a knowledge would be a very useful addition to the Black/white illustrations Sound area. Each well documented and of the environment and of the plant forms library of any enquiring and adventurous Amazon.co.uk price: £17.37 mapped location provides an abun- and the vertebrate and invertebrate pop- diver. First published 1988. www.amazon.com dance of sites to choose from. ulations to be found here.

51 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Silent Wrecks Environment The Silent Wrecks of Kwajalein Atoll A practical guide Video film, 55:30 minutes, Produced to good practice media by Oceanic Research Group, $24.95 Books, Film, DVDs, Managing Environmen-tal Impacts plus $3.95 shipping (USA), $7.95 ship- in the Marine Recreation Sector, ping (outside the USA). NB this video This guide can be download- is available in NTSC only. In 2000, ed for free at www.coral.org members of Oceanic Research Group, Marine recreation providers, such along with history and dive specialists, as companies that operate snor- filmed the underwater sequences for keling and diving, whale watching, boating, jet skiing, and their full-feature documentary, The Silent Dive Destination Guides recreational fishing excursions, Dive Destinations 2005 + Caribbean Wreck Heaven Wrecks of Kwajalein Atoll. During the Second have a major influence on Dive Destinations + free DVD Filmed and produced for World War, Japanese and American forces how tourist activities impact Sport Diver by former BBC newsman John McIntyre. fought for control of the Pacific. Kwajalein the natural and cultural Obtainable from www.divedestinations.net £8.95 + p&p. Atoll, part of the Marshall Islands, saw several resources in popular coastal Dive Destinations 2005 covers more than 70 destinations battles during which many ships and planes tourism destinations. Tourism and offers comprehensive information on climate, entry came to rest on the floor of her lagoon. This film companies are recognizing requirements, currency, language, electricity supply and examines the battle for Kwajalein through the that they can contribute to so on, as well as details of the countries themselves and the underwater wrecks of those battles. www.ocean- marine conservation and types of diving you can do. The DVD, Caribbean Wreck icresearch.org the economic development of local communities by working with marine Heaven, visits nine islands and explores more than 30 recreation providers that adopt environmental and wrecks. Among the vessels dived on the DVD are the enor- social good practices. To consolidate the extensive mous Bianca C – the Titanic of the Caribbean – and the information already developed by various organizations huge Spiegel Grove, alongside the Rhone, the Stavronikita Big Waves Sharp Sharks regarding good practices within the marine recreation and the James Bond wrecks. The Tsunami Man: Learning about Sharks of South Carolina industry, a common supply chain management tool has DVD also contains an eight-minute killer waves with Walter Dudley, Charles Farmer, 160 pages, South been developed. This tool will provide a central refer- bonus feature titled Shark Frenzy, by Anthony D. Fredericks, Carolina Department of Natural ence on good environmental and social which sees John get in the thick of a Paperback: 96 pages, University Resources. It is available free of practice from marine recreation of Hawai’i Press; ISBN: 0824824962. hectic shark feed in the Bahamas. charge through the Department providers for the corporate com- £9.50. Filled with dramatic pho- of Natural Resources. For the loca- munity to use during purchaser- tographs and accounts of tsu- tion of the DNR office call the DNR’s supplier business processes. nami survivors, this book address- switchboard at (843) 953-9300 or visit es the how and why of tsu- saltwaterfishing.sc.gov. To receive a namis, their impact on human copy by mail, send a check for $2 Pro-Active Posters & PDFs lives and the way which infor- (postage) payable to the SCDNR, The NOAA Fact Sheets and Public mation about these so-called P.O. Box 12559, Charleston, SC, 29422- Service Announcement Poster killer waves is shared through- 2559. This is the first comprehensive guide to shark species in the Project was designed to create pub- out the world. Young readers state. Included in the guide are 160 pages of information, a descrip- lic awareness for long-term conser- are also given an inside look at tion and overview of 13 families of sharks and 39 species presented vation of coral reefs and to educate the life of a working scientist. individually with illustrations pointing out the key characteristics tourists and other groups that visit the www.amazon.com essential in the identification process, along with other key infor- reefs. To download your FREE fact mation. The guide also delivers a mes- sheet in pdf format, click here: www. sage on the conservation of sharks. icran.org/pdf/ICZMsm.pdf www.lowcountrynow.com or visit: www.noaa.org Games Screensaver Silent Hunter III, Simulation, Ubisoft and historical Sharks, Terrors of the Deep. Entertainment an inspec- Entertainment, £29.99, available: missions, a mis- Software, Prolific Publishing, Inc. $19.95 tion. The 17/03/2005. The king of submarine simu- sion editor, and when ordered on-line from www.lifeglobe. “Fantasy lations returns with an all-new 3D game multiplayer fea- com. This special beta release of Sharks, T h e m e engine, new crew command feature. Whether Terrors of the Deep includes 11 species Park Reef” tures, and more realistic action than ever before. it’s stalking destroyers or hiding from depth charges, players of your favorite sharks in two different f e a t u r e s Command the cunning and deadly U-boats of the will experience their own personal war story. The spectacular scenes. The “Open Water” tank allows our menacing sharks circling-in, and North Atlantic and experience the tension-filled atmos- graphics, multiplayer options and suspenseful gameplay com- free movement of the sharks around your underwater reef complete with a sunken phere of a WWII submarine movie. The game includes bine to create the most impressive submarine simulation ever. position and you will swear you feel those galleon, reef fish, and perhaps a few a career campaign, patrols that have both single www.silent-hunteriii.com or ve3d.ign.com massive tails brush you as they cruise by for other surprises. dl.aaascreensavers.com

52 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF HANDICAPPED DIVERS

The International Association of Handicapped Divers (IAHD) is a non-proﬁt organization that or- ganizes training programs for disabled Fraser Bathgate divers. The organiza- Inteview by Gunild Pak Symes tion offers a range of Photographs courtesy of IAHD & Flemming Thyge courses on different subjects very much Fraser Bathgate, Vice President exclusion for a lot of people that are And how did you get involved with like the PADI-system and Director of Training for the excluded anyway. It wasn’t just peo- IAHD? I had obviously been, being of diver education. ple with spinal injuries in wheel chairs, in a wheelchair myself, interested in You can read more International Association of but also people with cerebral palsy, trying to give something back to the about diving for Handicapped Divers (IAHD), Down’s syndrome, muscular dystro- diving community which we felt was disabled people at tells X-RAY MAG what drives phy and spinal bifida… things like that very, very important because a lot IAHD’s international him to dive off his wheel- which means that we get the freedom of times divers tend to take out, they website: that everyone else experiences. don’t actually give back. And I felt it www.iahd.org chair and into the depths of Also one of the benefits of water was important to try to give something the underwater realm, why is that it is a great back to the div- Fraser Bathgate will he wants to teach other disa- therapy anyway, and ing community as a be at the January bled people how to dive and also leaving the wheel whole. 2005 Danish Dive chair behind. It’s the Show in Copenha- abled dive instructors how to only sport where we Was your disability gen where IAHD will use alternative approaches can leave the wheel something that came run a training pro- and teaching methods that chair behind. The later in life? Yes, I had gram over the week- other great thing is a climbing accident. end. To register for encourage disabled individu- it’s also the only sport I was never a diver the course, contact als to take the plunge. where we can go before, so I was the Flemming Thyges at: into a shop and buy first person in the www.thygesdykker- Tell us about yourself and the organi- straight out of the world in a wheel- center.dk zation… The IAHD was set up to help shop. We don’t have chair to qualify as an train people in to have instructor. So that is scuba diving that things unique. weren’t able to go custom able bodied again. It’s good. through the nor- made. The And how did your mal instructional only thing teachers respond So, you felt happier down in the methods with that we Fraser Bathgate to you? It took me water? I felt a lot happier, a lot safer some of the major do have a long time to find and a lot more comfortable in the training agencies. to have custom made any- someone who would be willing to water. We felt that was time is a wet suit because teach me. When they did finally start the wrong thing, obviously body shapes are to teach me, it was found that I could Do you have pain above water and so we wanted to different. But everything do just about as much as everyone then less under? I know that some peo- introduce a meth- else can be bought directly else in the water. In fact, at certain ple that we have worked with have od of teaching from the shop, so they’re points I could do things slightly better had things where they have pain on that would mean not being penalized for because my mobility came back when the surface, but when we take them there was no having a disability. I was in the water, so it is like you are under the water, the pain reduces. We

53 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED profile Bathgate use a specific program that all of our stu- set up a program for disabled dents can breath nitrox 36 which assists divers at his or her location, what the breathing rates and keeps them do they have to do first? warmer for longer. Well, Flemming has fortunately done one of the training pro- How does IAHD help dive centers devel- grams with us and that’s really op programs for disabled divers? good. What it means is that now We run training programs to train instruc- he looks at the rehabilitation tors to work with people with disabilities centers that are in Copenhagen. because it not just being able to work We made links the last time I was with them but also really understanding across there, at one of the cent- the different types of disabilities, how to ers, and they want to introduce look after them under the water, how it to their people as well. To get to get them to achieve as much as you it going, I am coming back to do possibly can. So what we do when we the Danish Dive Show and we are going run a training program, we do not only to take some people in the tank at the look at just the instructors, we look at the dive show so we can get them in the training facilities. We look at the swim- water. ming pools, we look at their dive sites, And also we will have this new propul- and we look at if they want to take them sion vehicle that we have been working away on holiday all these sorts of things. with the manufacturers of, so we will So it assists them in becoming more of be able to showcase that. Because we accessible center. work with a lot of the manufacturers as well in making the equipment that is So it is a very collaborative process? more user friendly. Very much so. And what does this propulsion vehicle Do you have doctors involved? do for disabled divers? We got a medical board with people It straps to the tank and it’s got an who advise us. If we have a problem, on-off button, so it can just push them we can go to them and they will advise through the water, so they don’t have us on different disabilities. Also we have to worry about swimming as well. people that are involved in sort of a board of recommendation, which assists So it just opens up a whole new world us in doing new ideas and new programs for disabled individuals? and things like that. You’ve got a three dimensional world that give you a freedom that you don’t So you really have some strong guide- have on land. And you can do all the lines and criteria? things that used to be able to do but Very much so. Also we are recognized you can’t do on land anymore. by most of the major training agencies as well as carving a link with DAN (Divers I guess you’ve got a lot of happy divers Do you meet a lot of resistance? Alert Network) where they recognize our coming out of your programs? From people that don’t understand what programs. We are working with people Oh, yes a whole lot of happy divers! This we are doing – those who say, “You with disabilities. is one of the only things that keeps you shouldn’t have to be doing this.” And going, you know, because even when we say, “Well if we don’t do this, are So, if an owner/director of a dive center things are very difficult, you just do one YOU going to take them in the water?” like for instance, Flemming Thyges of of these sessions and it makes it all worth- And they don’t look at that idea. So, you Thyges Divecenter in Denmark, wants to while. know it’s making sure we get the word

Fraser Bathgate is the guest instructor of the specialty courses offered at Thyge’s Dive Center in Copenhagen, Denmark

54 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED profile Bathgate out to as many people as possible and How about the handicapped com- take as many people as we know div- munity themselves? The handicapped ing. community themselves were very wary, a little bit at first. They didn’t believe Do you work with governments or minis- that it could be done; they didn’t tries? Yes, we have in the past because believe that we could work with these we have been invited to work with vari- people, but now that we have proved ous countries especially in the devel- that you can do it, then it’s a lot better oping world, as well as the Cayman now. tourist authorities like the Maltese tourist authority, the Seychelles, working And now they are much more excited with the Key Largo chamber of com- to try it. Yes, especially when we can merce in Florida. Setting people up get people into the water, then it’s a like Flemming in Denmark to promote lot easier for us to promote it. It makes it it because he is very enthusiastic and a lot easier to work with and a lot more doing a lot. He will become our repre- people will become involved with the sentative in Scandinavia, so anybody in program especially in the states. We Scandinavia who wants to work with us are hooked up with the Miami project. can contact him. We are hooked up with people up in University of Washington in St. Louis, Instructors learn teaching methods for individuals with disabilties who want to learn to dive When did you start your with IAHD? Missouri. We are hoping to expand into I came in its second year. It’s been Boston and places like that. port what we do and actually help out How do you do this financially? going on now for 11 years. When I in testing some of the new stuff we are We are looking for support. Right now, came on, I started developing dif- Do you get parents involved with their working on. Get the scientists involved it’s just a lot of good will on our behalf. ferent things and then, when a new kids? We try to but sometimes the par- and the medical community to help Because we are non-for-profit organi- CEO came on board, we were able to ents can be a bit of drawback. So this promote us. zation, no one is being paid to do this. expand the programs that were avail- is why we developed this program, We are getting into a lot more devel- We are trying to develop programs to able to everyone a lot faster. So, we surface support program, so we can oping of programs to assist people be better for everyone. have things like surface support spe- use them to assist rather than get in the and give them more of a challenge. cialists, nitrox program, two new pirate way all the time. Because it is student-led and not Have there been any documentaries fish diver and recon diver. The Pirate instructor-led, you keep on present- made or media coverage done on fish diver is for people with a mental So, if I am a disabled child or teenager ing things for the divers to try, it gives your programs? Yes, actually a docu- age of 12. And they collect six pieces who want to learn how to dive, what them a hunger to try more new things. mentary film has been made about me on a treasure map and complete skills do I do first? You’ll want to get in touch Maybe not just diving, but perhaps try- and how I got to where I am. And we to get to the treasure chest. with us. Go onto our website and click ing another sport that they had never are hoping the media will come out to under “Instructors” and it will tell you thought about. And hopefully it will meet us and cover our programs at the That’s a wonderful idea. So, you work where the instructors are and you can open up the whole of the market. Also show. It’s my first Danish Dive Show and with three different sectors: the govern- contact them directly. And if you can’t the community in which they live in will I am really looking forward to it. ■ ment, business sector and the health find one to contact directly, then you become a lot more open as well. community. Which one has been the can contact the head office and we most helpful to your organization so can see if we can organize something far? and get an instructor as close to you They are all very much the same… as possible. because initially there was a lot of resistance from all of them but now Where do you want to be in 5 to 10 that they understand what we are try- years? Retired would be nice. (Laugh) ing to do, that makes it all a lot easier In 5 to 10 years, I would like to see that for us to promote it and be a lot faster we have a large instructor base that is and promote it a lot faster. willing to work along side us and sup-

55 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED wrecks Got that sinking feeling again? WWW.WIKIPEDIA.COM

Text edited by Peter SymesWreck Rap

“Surrender of the ‘Tennessee,’ Battle of Mobile Bay” Line engraving after an artwork by J.O. Davidson. The Ironclad Chicasaw, which has now been rediscovered, is seen in the lower right corner Rogue divers raid war grave wreck Wilhelm Gustloff gets stripped

1944 During World War II, the country It is not well known, harbour. As soon as the than a thousand were kept the heavy-duty Chickasaw around but the the worst disas- gangplanks were in place, saved. The immense size just in case German saboteurs destroyed ter in maritime history people surged onto the of the ship and the loca- the Huey P. Long bridge across the was the sinking of the ships. So many got on that tion at a depth of 50 m Mississippi. The vessel was never needed German liner Wilhelm the rescue equipment, life- makes her a very attractive to carry goods and trains across the Gustloff on January boats and lifebelts, were wreck. Unfortunately, it also river again, and its owners sank it. The hopelessly inadequate. Yet, attracts rogue divers hunt- 30, 1945. As many as U.S. NAVAL HISTORICAL CENTER PHOTOGRAPH. Chicasaw was designated as shipwreck the Wilhelm Gustloff set off ing for souvenirs and items No. 2, and was put to rest in 1944 at the 10,000 people, mainly with only a minesweeper that can be sold. A surprising find. Beneath the turbid monitors covering Rear Admiral David spot on the river with 19 other outdated civilians, were aboard escort. Several hours after The great wreck which is waters of the Mississippi River, archeolo- Glasgow Farragut’s entry into the torpe- and unusable vessels and barges. It has her when she went leaving the Gulf of Danzig, also a designated gravesite gists have stumbled across a rare find: do-filled Mobile Bay. After a fierce bat- since been forgotten. down one winter’s passengers aboard the for all those who perished The remains of a Civil War ironclad. tle at Fort Morgan, the fleet made it into night in the Baltic Sea, Wilhelm Gustloff may have with her, has gradually The USS Chickasaw, which played an the bay to then face the CSS Tennessee, 2004 The Chickasaw was rediscovered sunk by Russian thought that they were been stripped of every- heroic role in the Battle of Mobile Bay, a Confederate ironclad. In the ensuing during recent survey work by the Corps torpedoes. nearing safety. But that thing from its portholes to has been rediscovered in a graveyard battle, the Chickasaw was credited with of Engineers to stabilize the bed and night the ship was attacked its wash basins. Many of of shipwrecks upriver from New Orleans’ hammering away at the Tennessee with bank of the Mississippi near the ship- between Danzig and the the divers are encouraged French Quarter. its guns. wreck graveyard. “The propeller shaft is By the end of 1944, as Danish island of Bornholm. by rumours that items such the only thing that looks like it did under Russian troops were press- It was torpedoed by as ashtrays and bed linen 1864 The story of the USS Chickasaw, 1874 At the end of the war, the Eads,” said archaeologist Joan Exnicios ing westwards and closing the Soviet submarine S-13, from the ship are regularly which is now the only known Milwaukee Chickasaw saw no more action, and the who works for the U.S. Army Corps of in on Danzig on the Baltic commanded by Aleksandr snatched by German col- class ironclad river monitor left, is one Navy decommissioned it in 1874. In the Engineers in New Orleans, about what (today’s Gdynia in Poland), Marineskom, and took lectors “for the price of a of fame and ignominy. Six months after ensuing years, it was made into a coal remains of the Chickasaw. Officials said mass evacuations took three direct hits. As many Mercedes.” ■ being commissioned into the Union ferry, and later, it carried railroad cars raising the vessel would be too costly, but place before the Russians as 9,000 or perhaps even For the full story, see: navy in February 1864, the Chickasaw across the Mississippi in New Orleans. It rock will be placed around it to keep the arrived. As many as 60,000 10,000 people perished www.patriot.dk/gustloff.html entered the Civil War as one of four was fitted with side-wheel propulsion. vessel from moving. ■ people crowded into the in the icy waters. Fewer

58 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED wrecks

Great Lakes: N.Y. Divers ing to newspaper accounts at the time. NS Savannah, the world’s first Their escape was evidently hasty, because and only nuclear passenger Looters of sunken treasure have found the ship- none of them retrieved any possessions. ship, now rusts with Ghost fleet One crewman even arrived at Sodus Point wreck of the Etta Belle stark naked. subject to $100,000 fines in the frigid waters of The Etta Belle, now rests in 200 feet The N.S. Savannah was the world’s of water off Sodus Point, where it was first nuclear-powered cargo/pas- In the early days of div- graves; and it will go a State Archaeologist Lake Ontario recently found by found by two senger ship. First proposed in 1955, ing, treasure hunters long way toward protect- Jonathan Leader said the Rochester divers who specialize the Savannah was part of President armed with underwater ing archaeological sites,” new federal law is aimed The Etta Belle sank in 1873 in in hunting Lake Ontario ship- Eisenhower’s “Atoms for Peace” ini- blowtorches prowled the Neyland said.” The idea is directly at those looters relatively calm weather. The wrecks. It is the oldest cargo- tiative. Congress authorized the con- waters outside Charleston not for the government to and others with nefarious oak-hulled schooner sprang carrying schooner found on struction in 1956 as a joint project Harbor for the H.L. Hunley. hoard these vessels, but intentions. “Obviously they a leak just under the water- the southern shore of the lake. between the Maritime Administration They planned to cut it up to protect the sanctity of are not just going after line on the port bow. After an It’s also one of just two that of the Department of Commerce and sell souvenirs of the war graves first, and then people who stumble upon hour of frantic pumping, Two-masted schooner are fully preserved. In 1971, and the Atomic Energy Commission. Civil War submarine, and to learn from these wrecks these wrecks,” Leader the captain and his crew two divers found the St. Peter, Savannah was launched in March, perhaps even the bones and get the most out of said. “The real issue is peo- gave up, retreating into a small yawl for a pristine wreck, near Pultneyville, Wayne 1962. Designed to carry 9,400 tons of of her crew, to collectors them.” ple out for gain or profit an eight-mile row to shore. It took them County. Its full load of coal is still visible, cargo, 60 passengers and 124 crew, around the globe. The act covers thou- off these wrecks. I have several hours to reach the shore, accord- bulging from two cargo holds, and coated N.S. Savannah was capable of cruis- There was a time when sands of wrecks in foreign no sympathy for those with zebra mussels. Fewer than one thou- ing at 21 knots and traveling 336,000 such looting was pretty waters around the world. people and am glad this sand shipwrecks are thought to repose in miles on a single fuel load. In 1972, common. Now, is being done.” Lake Ontario, and only about 200 have N.S. Savannah was decomissioned in with legislation The law applies been explored by divers. an effort to reduce spending by the that just passed to any vessel built Martime Administration. From 1985, N.S. Congress, federal for military pur- Well preserved Lake water can get Savannah was stored near Patriot’s agents can seize poses, but not to so deep and cold that some wrecks “are Point Naval Museum, South Carolina a treasure hunt- commercial or like ships in a bottle,” said Great Lakes until, in1999, when she was moved to er’s boat and fine merchant ves- historian Brendon Baillod. A pair of British James River Merchant Marine Reserve him $100,000 for sels. Courts have warships near Hamilton, Ontario, sunk in a Fleet near Newport News, Virginia. mining the gov- generally upheld gale in 1813, are so well preserved in 300 After 10 years of riding out storms and ernment’s archae- these rights any- feet of water that “they could easily be decaying with age, the Savannah is ological gold. way, but the new refloated and sailed,” he said. finally receiving some attention. Con- Bob Neyland, law eliminates About five shipwrecks a year, on aver- gress, for the first time, has allocated head of under- any question of age, are found on the Great Lakes. There money to begin the ship’s decom- water archaeol- Hunley submarine immersed in refrigerated stor- salvage rights are an estimated 6,000 altogether — most missioning. The $2 million is part of the ogy at the Naval age tank at the WLCC upon recovery. From for military ships. of them in lakes Erie, Huron and Michigan. omnibus spending bill that Congress Historical Center Friends of the Hunley www.hunley.org James Hunter, a The discovery of the Etta Belle had only recently approved. and the Hunley Naval Historical “modest” historical value. But it is impor- The government overseer of the project coordi- Center archae- tant in Lake Ontario, where there are very Ghost Fleet, the U.S. Maritime Adminis- nator, said that the new It was part of the massive ologist also working at the few wrecks to begin with,” said Baillod, tration, has a five-year $25 million plan Sunken Military Craft 2005 National Defense Hunley lab, says it’s an whose web site includes a database of to remove the defunct nuclear reac- act was forced by rapid Authorization Act, a $420 issue that comes up more sinkings and sightings on all five lakes, tor still within the Savannah’s belly and advance in shipwreck- billion piece of legisla- often than many imagine. going back to 1679. ■ purge all remaining equipment, hoses hunting technology. tion that covers nearly See www.hunley.org ■

FRESHWATER AND MARINE IMAGE BANK and gaskets tainted with radioactivity. “This will go a long 20 percent of the federal Footage from dives on the Etta Belle can be ■ way to protecting war budget. found at this link: www.shipwreckworld.com

59 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED TechnicalMatters Leigh Cunningham is Correct Weighting: What it is and how to get there... the technical manager and TDI Instructor Trainer for Ocean College, Sharm El Sheikh.

Probably best known for Leigh his records - Leigh once Cunningham held the record for the deepest dive in the Red Sea - and attempts of reaching extreme depths, he also has a wide range of teaching credentials to his cur- Do you need to riculum:

TDI instructor trainer, DSAT Tech Trimix instructor, PADI MSDT IANTD Technical diver instructor lose some weight? CMAS 3 star instructor. Regardless of the There are indeed many Unfortunately, with some have forgotten what the real world, where you have in 150 metres. The end goal be minimal. For the tech type of dive, shal- instructors that do empha- students, due to the stress instructor had to say about five days to do an Open is the same. diver, on the deep mix sise the importance of cor- of breathing underwater correct weighting in the Water course, this is some- We should be carrying dive, the degree of over- low non-deco rec- rect weighting, discussing, for the first time, good train- first place. times the case. enough lead to keep us at weighting will vary more reational dive or differing amounts of lead ing and advice tends to The Open Water Students rarely learn the shallowest stop depth dramatically. This is based the 120 metre deep based on the thickness of go in one ear and out the Instructor, myself included, how to breathe correct- at the end of the dive - upon a number of factors, mix wreck dive in the exposure suit, wet or other. By the time divers also generally overweight ly underwater during the whether it’s the 6 or 3 metre i.e. how many tanks is the dry, salt versus fresh water (who will naturally have students during initial con- open water course, and stop on a deco dive, or the diver carrying, hence the the Atlantic, cor- environments, aluminium inappropriate breathing fined water ses- for some it will safety stop at the end of difference in compressed rect weighting will versus steel tanks, position- techniques initially) sions to keep them hallow take hundreds of the non-deco dive - with gas weight at the begin- increase the safety ing of lead to increase have cracked steady on the bot- dives before they the BCD or wing empty. ning of a dive compared and comfort of stability, lead bricks on the breath- tom, particularly rapid get it right. But it is The over weighted diver, to gas weight (with low a standard weight ing pat- where confined the key to correct will find buoyancy control gas pressure) at the end of any dive tenfold. belt, soft shot t e r n water sessions are breathing weighting; a slow harder, the under weighted the dive. In some extreme However, it is often weights in pockets issue, carried out in a = deep, controlled diver, could end up with a cases, where the diver is the case that not on a belt, a har- they sea water environ- an over breathing pat- run away ascent. carrying multiple tanks, he enough empha- ness belt system ment, in order to tern, so until you Bearing in mind that or she might opt for the (very secure), carry out required weighted have this, you’re compressed gas has support team to attach sis is put on correct ankle weights skills, without hav- wasting your time. weight, dives will weighting from the for those in ing students float- diver Practice more, or always start with very beginning, i.e. dry suits and ing to the sur- take up golf! the diver slightly quick release face, left right and centre. Once you have the cor- overweight, at at the Open Water pockets on a Sometimes, the only way to rect breathing pattern the the beginning course. BCD. This is all get some students through steps to correct weighting of the dive, the

Weighting good, keep it the course is to keep them are easy. So once again degree of over- Text by Leigh up! over weighted during the regardless of the type of weighting for the Cunningham whole course. This is, obvi- dive,, the single tank non- non-deco single ously, not ideal, but in the deco dive, or the 6 tank rig tank diver will

56 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Many tanks compound to the weight issue. tech Leigh Cunningham in the Red sea with big Leigh tank setup Cunningham PHOTO COURTESY OF LEIGH CUNNINGHAM

ing position stage tanks to adjust trim. Forget about throughout drop weights, you have a decompression the dive, con- obligation, so you will need the weight sider where this you started with in order to carry out shal- weight is placed. low stops accurately. drop weights on the rig during rather than the thicker A horizontal diver will off gas more effi- the ascent, to avoid having to non-crushed neoprene ciently during deco than the vertical The bottom line: In order to establish be heavily overweighted at the dry suit, which would diver who has up to a two meter depth correct weighting, experiment with steel beginning of the dive. of the thickness of the exposure suit, salt also have greater buoyancy changes difference between head and feet. and aluminium tanks, and different types The tech diver should, however, consid- or freshwater, steel or aluminium tank throughout the dive. So, here we go, all A weight belt might not be the best of weight systems. When you get as close er some extra weight, in case you need to ect. For the tech diver, due to more you advanced tech divers out there, it answer. How about a V- weight placed to correct weighting as possible, your run to a bail out/emergency plan, where kit and multiple tanks, the story looks like the crushed neo- between the back gas and back plate dive will be safer and more enjoyable. you would use some of your reserve gas becomes more complicated. prene or membrane dry and wing? Or lead on cam bands, stra- supply, to finish your decompression obli- suit is the way to go. That tegically placed on the back gas and/or Have fun, and dive safe! ■ gation, ending the dive lighter than you Steel or Aluminium? Where Forget is, unless you are would otherwise be if you were running to tech divers using steel tank con- about drop diving in a tropi- your primary plan. figurations, the diver could be cal environment, overweighted with no additional weights if where the air tem- Back to basics. Think weight, apart from the rig you have a perature is hotter back to your open water and kit he or she is carrying, than your average course. At the start of a dive, not only at the beginning of decompression cup of tea! In which your instructor probably told the dive but also at the end. obligation case we are back you to deflate your BCD com- Now you have two choices; with the wet suit to pletely and hold a normal Use aluminium tanks which avoid over-heat- breath, by which you should are less negatively buoyant, or at ing before getting wet! ideally be floating at around least mix and match your configura- Hm, I’ll leave it up to you. eye level, or, if in doubt, sink- tion, rather than having only steel If you are using aluminium tanks ing very slowly. A kilo over, tanks. If you are using a wet suit, all around, you may need to no big deal, as it is better change it for a thicker one with add weight to establish correct to be slightly overweighted, more positive buoyancy during weighting. If so, in order to adjust than slightly under. decompression (shallow water). But trim and ensure a good div- In a perfect world, you don’t forget: While a thicker the wet would have cracked the suit will offer more positive buoy- ideal breathing pattern dur- ancy during deco, the down side is During basic training the instructor often over- ing the open water course. that due to increased suit compres- weight the students to If not, and you have a few sion at depth it loses proportionately keep them on the bottom dives under your belt, try it more buoyancy in deeper water. If during first exercises. now! you are using a drysuit, you could More often than not the The rule will work for the opt for using a suit made of crushed extra weigh never comes off again single tank diver regardless neoprene or a membrane type, PHOTO BY PETER SYMES

57 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Great white shark; Hammerhead shark conservation caught in fishnet; Shark tails and fins for sale at an Asian market

Text by Edwin Marcow Shark Tales Photos by Edwin Marcow & Bite Back

ILLUSTRATION COURTESY OF FIONA’S SHARK MANIA PHOTO BY EDWIN MARCOW WWW.OCEANSTAR.COM PHOTO COURTESY OF BITE BACK 77 year old Tyna Webb swam vital equipment, yet everyday, thousands Australia, the Grey Nurse shark is close religiously every day except for of people around the globe enter the to extinction with less than a thou- ocean, into another world without pro- sand remaining off the Australian east Sundays when she would go to tection. coast. A similar sorry tale is that of church. A very active woman, We, humankind, consider this world to the Canadian Porbeagle shark whose she would swim up and down the be ours. But it isn’t. One could argue that numbers have also declined by 90 coast of Fish Hoek, South Africa, we enter this world on a limited visa as percent since the 1960’s. It is now on our visits are only fleeting. But, like tourists the endangered species list. where she lived. On Tuesday, the who enter a foreign place, when some- It is estimated that tens of millions of 16th of November 2004, it was to thing goes wrong, as in the case of Tyna sharks are killed each year by humans be her last swim. Webb, we blame the shark rather than in the name of progress! Ever since accept that it was an accident or an act shark cartilage has been advocated Tyna was attacked by an 18 foot long of nature. Our failure is not to use reason as a ‘cure’ for cancer, there has been (6 m) Great White Shark, the ocean – but why? a measurable decline in shark popu- turned red and she disappeared under The frequent sightings of lation numbers. Progress in pseudo- PHOTOS COURTESY OF BITE BACK the surface — all that was left was a large congregations science — an unproven and discredited turned logical and balanced approach- their slow growth rate and low birth rate, little red bathing cap floating in of Great White field — has endangered the future of the es to very real diseases. sharks are particularly vulnerable to over the swell. sharks resting shark. Progress? A bowl of shark-fin soup will fishing. As unfortunate and regret- and patrol- Research has shown that shark car- sell for $100 in the Far East. This dish is To date, 63 countries have agreed to table as this attack was, ling just tilage taken as a supplement will not prized as a delicacy there. Its reputed ban the killing of sharks for their fins in it was likely that the shark beyond arrest and cure cancer, yet shark cures medicinal value has helped spawn a the Atlantic Ocean. This is a very positive chose Tyna for a number the break- continue to be sold in many health vast industry — shark-finning. step forward following earlier conserva- of reasons. Perhaps it had water food stores. Although it is remarkable Finning by trawler boats have also tion bills introduced in other countries, not successfully hunted for only a few that, unlike human beings, sharks do not helped to decimate shark numbers notably South Africa, which gave protec- prey that day, and this was feet from acquire cancer, and that their brains do globally. Sharks are caught in trawlers’ tion to the Great White Shark in the early the overwhelming desire of the surfers who are not atrophy as they age, the belief that nets. Then, they are hoisted onto the 1990’s. shark to survive, rather than a random catching waves on ingesting shark cartilage as a supple- decks where their fins are removed and Sharks have outlived the dinosaurs. attack by some maniacal man-eating popular beaches along the Cape coast ment will cure or prevent terrible illnesses the sharks, still alive, minus their fins, are They have seen empires come and go. shark. of South Africa will one day, I hope, help is irrational. With the pervasiveness of then thrown back into the ocean to die If we are to protect the future of the When we enter the ocean — to sail, to reveal a more balanced image of this these beliefs, a great disservice is also a slow and painful death. ocean, and in turn the future of human- surf, scuba dive or simply swim — we graceful and magnificent animal. being done to many sick and vulnerable One must ask the question: who is act- kind, we must outlaw shark-finning and enter another world, the realm of the The irony is that sharks worldwide have patients who, in desperation, turn their ing like an animal, and who is acting the trade of all shark products worldwide. shark. No one would safari in Africa on more to fear from us than we do from backs on proven medicine in favor of with grace and purpose? If you want to help save the sharks, visit foot without a ranger armed with a high- them. some magical cure. If this rape of the ocean continues the Shark Trust at www.sharktrust.org or powered rifle, ‘walkie talkie’ communi- More than 90 percent of the world’s It is the power of marketing and the unchecked, shark numbers may well Bite Back at www.bite-back.org ■ cations, a first aid kit and a plethora of shark numbers have decreased. In discrediting of science that has over- fall to unsustainable numbers. Due to INSET: At £3.95, Sid the Chocolate Shark raises funds for the Shark Trust

60 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED water equipment What’s hidden under the surface? was opened in Gothenburg, Sweden. Shortly after that, shops were opened in Stockholm and Malmö. In those years, lack of for dry suits. Edited by Portrait of a proper suits was also a Andrey Bizuykin problem, and Poseidon Neckseal manufacturer FILEPHOTO: POSEIDON decided to expand into Ingvar experimented this area as well and start with various ways of seal- known as Cyklon 300 and manufacturing wetsuits. ing, including one rather Cyklon 5000, one of the The main problem was amusing way, where the real legends in the world finding a suitable non- hood of a suit had a steel of modern diving. permeable material. The band running along the The American company, perimeter of the face of Valves At approximately Rubatex produced a the diver. This band had the same time, the part- thick rubber material that, to be tightened so fast to ners began manufacturing with a small modification, ensure a good seal, that it valves for diving cylinders. could be used in the man- was hard for a submariner Aided by Ingvar’s good ufacturing of wet suits. even to hold a regulator friend, Dennis Österlund, in the mouth. It was very Poseidon sales also started to take Drysuit In 1961, Poseidon uncomfortable for the Story off. Products were sold created the first drysuit, diver. History What is hidden ended up in the water. ond stages were placed under the name Poseidon called “Narval.” Before The next idea was seal- under the surface? That Certainly, it was very behind the diver’s neck, and marketed by Aqua- this time, all scuba divers ing the suit with a neck was the question that a primitive equipment, but the long hoses caused a Sport. The equipment that used to dive only in wet seal, which then became young boy named Ingvar it allowed Ingvar to make considerable breathing they could not produce suits or wool. Thus, when another Poseidon patent. Elfström asked himself in his first immersions under resistance. Ingvar was not was imported from for- divers resurfaced, it was They patented the neck the 1940’s. On fishing trips water. The first prototype happy with the design eign manufacturers. They necessary for them to seal together with a hood. with his father, he used to of a breathing regulator and it was clear bought cylin- change clothes and get For this reason, other sit and try to see the bot- followed in 1954. that he had to “We shall ders in Germany warm quickly at a camp- companies immediately tom of the sea. The prob- change it. After make equip- in which they fire, before they put their started to copy Poseidon’s lem was at that time and Twin hose The first series a couple of mounted valves suits on once more to dive neck seal, and not the age, there was no one of twin hose regulators years he started ment for scuba in order to sell again. “Narval” was a true integrated hood, thereby POSEIDON - GREEK GOD OF THE SEA making diving equipment that followed bore the to develop diving as long complete ready- gift for divers, though at declaring that they have Son of Kronos and Rheia, brother of Zeus, to buy. So, in order to name Poseidon Senior, a new single to-use sets for depths of more than 20 not broken conditions of Hades, Hestia, Demeter and Hera, Poseidon explore that world, Ingvar and was manufactured by hose regulator as one drop of scuba diving (a meters, the suit produced the patent. is one of the six original Olympians. His mis- decided to make his own Ingvar in his kitchen. As it together with water remains regulator plus a quite a squeeze and At that time, there were sion is to give voice to the earth. Poseidon equipment. is the case with these twin Rolf Tistrand, on a surface cylinder). When became very uncomfort- still no special materials was commonly called the earth shaker He made a full face hose regulators, where the who joined the the company able. The reason why this for thermal protection of and the earth encircler in The Iliad and The mask in which he inserted combined first and sec- company in of the Earth “ grew further and happened was, of course, the diver or heaters for Odyssey of Homer. He pounds and shakes a long flexible hose, 1957. Their next began to export that inlet and outlet valves dry suits. Then, in 1963, the earth and sea with his wrath and pleas- which was then product was the regula- the production to other remained to be invented, Poseidon got a request ure and answers to no one, except Zeus. attached to a man- tor Cyklon Junior, where countries, it was decided but here, too, Poseidon from the Swedish Navy. His kingdom is the vast sea which he has ual pump on the sur- the second stage was to transfer the manufactur- was up for the job. The Was it possible to produce populated with creatures of his own design. face. When his father transferred to the position ing from Ingvar’s kitchen Poseidon company a suit that could be used He rides the waves in a chariot drawn by pumped air, the mask we know so well today to a small rented garage. became the first in the for longer exposure times? dolphins but, curiously enough, his most came halfway off — in front of the diver’s Then, in 1958, the first dive- world to develop and pat- After some research and honored creation is the horse. and most of the air mouth. Today, this model is shop for the sale of under- ent inlet and outlet valves experimenting with differ-

61 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED “It is not our task to manufacturer produce the cheapest equipment. We don´t aspire to make to Poseidon today make the biggest possible production. Our purpose is to pro- ent manufacturing techniques, they pro- “Technica” Drysuits. The neoprene X-Stream is the lastest generation of lators come in three models for use with duce the best quality duced a dry-suit that fulfilled the Navy’s in these drysuits has fewer bubbles than Poseidon regulators. Before creating this trimix, nitrox and pure oxygen. They demands. The first airtight neoprene conventional neoprene and the mate- series of regulators, Poseidon undertook are all certified towards the extremely scuba diving equip- drysuit, the UNISUIT, was delivered to the rial that goes into making this suit comes an exhaustive analysis of future market demanding CE and EN 738-1 stand- ment in the world “ Navy in 1963, the same year Poseidon from four different countries. On delivery trends and requirements. On the basis ards and have been approved by the started exporting. to the Poseidon plant in of the estimated prospects, Swedish navy. Stefan Jennefalk, Göteborg (Gothenburg), Poseidon then began The “X-Stream TRIMIX” is, as the name Poseidon Spacesuits When NASA (the American Sweden, the material development and manu- implies, the model intended for use with space agency) started the space pro- then undergoes rigour- facturing of a completely trimix and heliox mixes. This regulator is tive models of regulators) through which gram, their experts had close contacts ous tests on specially new line of regulators certified to meet the professional stand- the can gasses pass, mix and get their with Poseidon in regards to the develop- designed machines. intended for professional ard NORSOK (Norway) in which the reg- relative speeds reduced. It has a bal- ment and creation of suits for astronauts. Any batch that fails to military divers, trimix-deep ulator must guarantee failsafe operation anced diaphragm where the valve is a The company quickly expanded. Ingvar meet the standards gets divers, technical divers, ice- at a depth of 200 meters. The “X-Stream big smooth ball, which essentially acts as bought a mobile home, which he used returned to the supplier. divers and cave-divers. New DURATION” is intended to be used with a new anti-freeze system, ensuring the for tours across Europe to sell equipment. This test allows Poseidon gas mixes containing up to 50% oxygen, operation of the regulator even at very In those days, cooperation between the to offer a 5000 dive guar- whereas the “X-Stream DECO” is meant low temperatures. companies making underwater equip- antee on the material. for use with pure oxygen. All second Poseidon makes 25,000 regulators ment was quite good, and Ingvar Since 1997, the firm stages have a modern sleek design, an and 30,000 medium and high pressure cooperated with Mares on develop- has used a mate- uniquely small size and weight, are com- hoses a year. Their kevlar high pres- ing new regulators and with Cressi rial called “tough- fortable and reliable in use, and simple sure hoses, which are designed for 1200 Sub on creating new types of tex,” which has a to service. atmospheres, are still suits. At this time, Poseidon top layer that flexible enough started to manufacture the is similar to Design The philosophy first universal 300 Bar tank cordura, but is much more materials, behind the X-treme series has connector. resistant to cuts and abra- original been to reduce the number Ingvar’s big dream was sions. All the seams and the design of possible failure points to realised in 1984, when a boots are designed for a ideas and an absolute minimum. The factory fully adapted for lifetime of 15 years. Before new tech- less complex, the less there is a diving equipment manu- the suits leave the plant, nological chance that the apparatus can fail facturing was built. Ingvar they are tested in a water innova- or break. Simple design also mini- Elfstrom died in 1998 at the tank. Poseidon makes 3000 tions — all mizes condensation points for age of 70. His life’s work made to 4000 drysuits a year, an went into ice to form. All viton o-rings it possible for everyone to estimated 8-10 % of all the the new have been removed from the explore the exciting world drysuits in the world. The regula- first stage and the number of under the surface of the sea. company’s list of customers tors, which medium and high pressure includes the armed forces of were then ports are reduced. Germany, Norway, the United called the One of the other design Kingdom and the United States, “Poseidon decisions was to use no less as well as the offshore oil indus- X-STREAM.” than 74 apertures (instead try in the Northsea and Alaska. These regu- of one, as in all more primi-

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Poseidon to be tied into knots without affecting their performance. One major characteristic about Poseidon is that there are no differences in standards between the equipment intended for 300-meter commercial divers and that intended for 10- meter amateur divers. All equipment that leaves the plant does so under the trademark “Poseidon.” Today, their trademark with the whale on a trident is well-known and enjoys a well-deserved reputation for quality all over the world. With only forty employees, Poseidon makes and exports production to forty countries. It has a very rational and effective manufacturing plant and remains committed to continued scientific and technological development — to always keep Poseidon at the forefront. ■

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Top quality MPV modular multipurpose valves; Stefan Jennefalk; Assorted parts; In next issue: The Swedish King, Carl Gustov; A visit to Apeks Poseidon Headquarters in Gothenburg, Sweden

63 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED ADMAT is back in action, this time in Marine the Philippines Archaeology where we have organ- ised a maritime archaeological survey-training project in a beautiful and historically significant area. BSAC, the British Sub Aqua Club, have asked us to run this as an expedition, which we are, but as it is an ADMAT project it is open to all as usual.

text by Peter Symes photos courtesy of A.D.M.A.T.

he Philippines were an important Ttrading centre for the ancient Chinese and the Spanish, but many ships perished in typhoons that still rip through here part of the year. Maricaban Island was used as a safe anchorage as vessels sort refuge from the tropical storms. This is a unique opportunity to join a maritime archaeological training expedition. Adventure The expedition will be conducting Maritime Archaeology WANT TO BE A an archaeological training survey, to WRECK solve the mystery of why 16th cen- Education tury Chinese pottery shards are being found off the beach. We will be train- Historic Wrecks WW2 ing the team how to use side scan Japanese War Fleet sonar, magnetometers, and tradition- DETECTIVE? al survey techniques. 64 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Join ADMAT on an archaeological underwater survey expedition WANT TO BE A in the Philippines WRECK DETECTIVE? Two teams of 15 divers/students will be taking part in this exciting expedition from 16th - 30th April and 30th April - 14th May 2005

Full details about this expedition, and how to apply to be a member of it, can be found on ADMAT’s Web site: www.admat.org.uk.

Contact person is Dr. Simon Spooner, e-mail: [email protected] Tel: +44 (0) 20-8399-1284. The Anglo~Danish Maritime Archaeological Team, or ADMAT for short, is a non-profit Dansk kontakt er Christine organisation set up to investigate, promote Nielsen som kan nås på and protect historic shipwreck sites through [email protected] field projects and education. Their projects are carried out as field schools and are also open to qualified divers, who are trained All archaeological training will be Maricaban Island, three hours south of the beach. The eight rooms are double large wreck diving. This will be in the and under guidance of experienced staff. given to the expedition members, Manila. The island is ten kilometres long or triple occupancy with single beds, middle weekend of each trip. The WWII including ADMAT’s own Underwater and two kilometres wide, with no roads wall fan, toilet and shower. The ocean is wrecks in Coron Bay have been one of ADMAT was founded by Dr. Simon Q. Survey Diver course Pt 1&2, Proton or vehicles, surrounded by gin clear blue just a few meters away, with two small the Philippines’ best-kept diving secrets. Spooner from England and Christine Magnetometer Diver Course (both PADI waters and rich coral with an abun- islands a few hundred meters away in In September 1944, Admiral “Bull” Halsey Nielsen from Denmark, hence the name SDC unique to ADMAT) and various rel- dance of colourful marine life. The resort the channel, making a superb relaxing stumbled on a camouflaged Japanese Anglo~Danish. During work on historic ship- evant archaeological courses will also is a small, local style family run guest- view. fleet ahead of the US landing on Leyte. wrecks in the North Coast of the Dominican be run. These are very practical courses, house. It is a two-storey building made A special weekend trip to Coron Bay Carrier-based bombers sank 24 vessels, Republic, they realised the great need with as much diving as we can do, this is of concrete and local bamboo right on is planned, for those who want to do leaving a ghost fleet of Japanese hulks for maritime archaeological work to be not a beach holiday. Most of the survey carried out, to protect shipwrecks from site is approximately 10 metres deep, damage by looters and weather, and to although some areas may go down to investigate the shipwrecks in most danger 30 metres. in coastal areas. Also they recognised the Turtles, stingrays and sharks are com- need to make it possible for archaeologi- mon in the area and there is ample cal students to get hands on practical field opportunity for underwater photography experience, as well as informing the gen- among the nearby rich corals. The expe- eral public about the wealth of historical dition leader is Dr Simon Spooner, a well- information lying at the bottom of the sea, known maritime archaeologist, founder and the importance of protecting it. Since of ADMAT, and Research Associate at the beginning of ADMAT, many individuals the Centre for Maritime Archaeology as well as organisations and museums from and History, University of Bristol. The around the world, have volunteered to expedition will be based at the resort on assist ADMAT in their endeavour.

www.admat.org.uk/phil1.htm

65 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED science The fishy art of survival

Text by Michael Symes Photos by Peter Symes Fish Fashion Is there any diver who has not It can be important for our very survival. been fascinated by the wonder- For example, we use colours as a diagnostic tool for our health. Not only do ful colours of reef fishes and the we use pale skin to diagnose anaemia reefs of their habitat? Those of us and yellow skin as a symptom of liver who have been lucky enough disease but the bruising from subcutane- to experience at first hand this ous bleeding after a blow can also be observed. Bad teeth can also be diag- interaction between these crea- nosed from their colour. tures and their environment, The use of colour is also important for cannot fail to have wondered warning purposes in the case of red traf- about this rich excess of colour fic signal lights, for example, and the red colour of certain very poisonous and the reasons for it. In nature toadstools and frogs. We also use colour there is a reason for everything diagnostically to tell us when our bread is – if we can but find it. baked, or tell a ripe apple from a unripe one. Colour is very important cosmeti- Humans use colours in many different cally when used both as a sexual signal ways. Normally, we only think of colours and as a means of camouflaging bad when they are being used in a decora- skin. And colour is very important when tive way; we liven up the interiors of our used for identification purposes, such as houses with paint and coloured wallpa- the colour coding of electrical resistors pers, and we brighten our textiles and and for product identification, the Kodak clothes with many coloured dyes. And at yellow film packaging being a typical sad events like funerals we also remove example. And one could go on, as there colour when we use black clothing. are many other important functions of However, although we are not gener- colour for us humans; whole books have, ally conscious of it, colour plays a much in fact, been written about this subject. more important part in our lives than this. But what about the submarine world of

ABOVE: Scalefin Anthias RIGHT: Coral gardens, Sipadan Island, Malaysia

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LEFT: Coral gardens Sipadan Island, Malaysia

RIGHT: French Angelfish, Cayman Islands

INSET: Pufferfish, Marsa Alam, Red Sea, Egypt

fishes? Have colours any importance for humans. behviourist, proposed that the fish col- them? Or are the beautiful colours that The gaudy appearance of the box fish ours might be acting as identifiers of pos- divers see in fishes and coral reefs only reminds predators that poison is secret- sible mates. For humans this is no prob- observed by them and have no function ed through its skin when it is attacked. lem, as we only form a single species. at all for fishes? For there certainly aren’t Predators associate the effects of its For reef fishes, however, this could be a any fish-dentists examining their patients venom with the black and yellow com- real problem as there are so many differ- for teeth decay, or fish-bakers making ent species present in the reefs. bread. Or perhaps the colours are just a Several theories have been put for- byproduct of fish-metabolism and have ward over the years regarding the won- no real significance, neither at the derful colours of the fishes in and around present time nor over evolutionary time. the reefs. However, from the point of view of evo- It was thought that the colours devel- lution theory this seems unlikely. oped through natural selection in order Although there might be some truth in that males will be attracted to females. all of these theories the current consen- However, males and females often sus seems to be that fish use their colour- appear to be the same with regard to ings mostly for camouflage purposes. colouration. At first sight this would seem to be para- Perhaps, it was supposed, the colours doxical, for the fish appear to us to be are warnings that certain fish are toxic clearly observable against the uniform or otherwise nasty to eat. This is true for blue-grey background of the water or example for the Box fish. However, many bination of warning colours and learn to even against the many bright colours of brightly coloured fish are excellent eat- avoid them. the coral reefs. The critical words here, ing, not only for other fish but also for us Konrad Lorentz, the Austrian animal though, are “appear to us”, for fish are

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clearly not camouflaged against human sists of electromagnetic radiation rang- Thus, as a survival black under yellow light. The percep- sight. So, we can ask ourselves, are ing from the infra-red (wavlengths 700 strategy, humans tion of the colour of an object therefore they camouflaged against nm and above), through the so-called forgo their col- depends critically upon the type of illu- non-humans, i.e. spectral or rainbow colours red, orange, our vision when mination. against yellow, green, blue, violet, to the ultra- it begins to get violet (shorter than about 400nm wave- dark and switch Light length). Of course sunlight varies greatly over to their rod Now, to any diver it is obvious that the during the course of the day, from vision. light penetrating below the surface of the “white” light at noon to The human the seas is somewhat different to that of the reddish morning and eye is most sen- daylight above the surface. Although evening lights. In order sitive to green water is apparently quite transparent it to talk about col- (about 550 nm does absorb red light weakly, and has our objectively wavelength) in tively a lot of light of, say, 600nm wave- a bluish colour – a white object under it has thus the middle of the spectrum, with the length and above, and little of the short- the surface looks bluish-green. In 15m of been sensitivity falling to zero in the infra-red er wavelengths, we will perceive neces- and ultra-violet i.e. we can detect nei- an orange/red colour. sary ther ultra-violet light nor infra-red radia- So, when we humans perceive to tion. To enable us to perceive colour, coloured objects we are using a the three types of cell in the human specialised set of light sensitive retina, are sensitive to the blue, green cells under an illumination which and red spectral regions respectively. preferably contains all the wave- The relative amount of different light lengths to be found in sunlight radiation falling on these three types at sea-level. Of course, we do of cell give rise to the perception of observe coloured objects under colour. For example, if there is rela- quite different illuminations such as the strong yellow sodium light of some street define lamps. But as we a stand- have all experi- ard daylight. An enced, this form example of such a of lighting disturbs standard is average noon sunlight our normal colour in Washington, D.C. All objective com- perception, and preda- parisons of colour, both above the water the colours of a tory fish species? What do and in it, are then made using such given object seen predatory fish actually see when they standards. under such light- look at their prey? To attempt an answer Secondly, there must be cells in the ing will generally these questions we must first look at eye to detect this radiation. Most verte- be much different some of the factors involved in the per- brates, including humans, use two sys- to that seen under ception of colour. tems of light-sensitive cells in their eyes. normal daylight. Two or more types of so-called cone To take an exam- The perception of colour cells (three in humans) produce a sen- ple, an object that Firstly, there must obviously be light sation of colour in abundant light, and looks a pure bright present, without light nothing can be a single type of rod cell detects light blue under ordi- seen. Human beings have evolved their much more sensitively, but achromati- nary daylight can colour vision under sunlight. Sunlight con- cally, under reduced lighting conditions. appear to be quite

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Snapper, Yellow Shrimpgobies, Batfish, Red Bigeye (Malaysia)

68 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED science Fish Fashion esting that being carried out on coral reef fishes by, among others, G.S. Losey at the Hawai’i Institute of Marine Biology, University of Hawai’i ,and N.J. Marshall at the Vision, Touch and Hearing Research Centre, University of Queensland, Australia. In three very interesting articles published in Copeia, vol 2003, No. 3 they discuss the visual pigments of Hawaiian reef fishes, the colours of Hawaiian coral reef fishes, and the environmental light in the ecology of reef fish vision. Visual pigments in reef fishes The eyes of Hawaiian reef fish were examined for the spectral sensitivity of the visual pigments in the retina. The spectral absorp- tion curves for the visual pigments of 38 species of Hawaiian fish were recorded using microspectrophotometry. The visual pigments of single cone-cells of the fish eyes had their maximum absorptions were at 347-376 nm (ultraviolet), 398-431 nm (violet) and 439- 498 nm (blue). For humans the cone cells water have maximum sensitivities at about 460 nm red light (blue), 540 nm (green) and 580 nm (orange). is reduced to a Thus, unlike humans, they had no visual pig- quarter of its intensity. ments covering the green-yellow-red part Sunlight is not always available, especially of the spectrum. Generally speaking, there in the ocean depths, so some animals pro- appear to be three types of short-wave- duce their own illumination. Glow worms, fire- length vision in fishes: UV-sensitive, UV-spe- flies and several species of fish produce their cialized and violet-specialized. Some species, own light by a chemical reaction, chemi- like the marine stickle back, in fact have luminescence, which is a by-product of their four types of cone cells. At least some of the metabolism rather than the more usual heat. species examined could therefore possess Furthermore, it seems that fish do not have true UV-colour vision and hue discrimination, the same type of cells in their eyes as we do although this would only be in a reduced to enable them to see colours – at least in part of the spectrum perceived by humans. the way we do. This means that fishes cannot have the same We then arrive at the core of the problem. perception of colour as humans. How do fish perceive other fish? UV-sensitive eyes are found throughout To get some idea of this, we need to the fishes from at least two species of sharks understand how the eyes of fish are con- to modern bony fishes. Eyes with specialized structed and how they react to the light short-wavelength sensitivity (in the ultra-vio- entering them. We thus have to study the let region of the spectrum) are common in visual biology of coral reef fishes. tropical reef fishes. Water itself is fairly trans- Visual biology of coral reef fishes parent to UV, with a more than 80% transmit- There has been a lot of research done on tance at wavelengths down to 300 nm. In the vision of fishes, some of the most inter- research in which the visual perception of

ABOVE: Grouper RIGHT: Soft and hard corals, Malaysia

69 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED science Fish Fashion

fishes is concerned, because most glass and then they will be camouflaged against preda- plastics are UV-opaque, it might be necessary tors. Kahki as camouflage to ensure that aquarium dividers, specimen We may conclude, then, that one of the Khaki, Urdu for dust-coloured, holding containers, etc., are UV-transparent. main functions of the colours of reef fishes is was first used for the uniforms Op. Cit. for camouflage against their natural predators of the English regiment of and not against we colour-perceiving humans Sir Harry Burnett Lumsden The colours of coral reef fishes who delight in their colours. in 1848 when he was fight- The colours of 51 species of Hawiian reef fish ing against the Afghans. All were measured objectively using a spectrom- Camouflage British trops in India adopted eter. Such measurements record, independ- Although achromatic colour difference is khahi in 1885. The Boers used ently of any human eye, the different wave- probably the most important factor in success- khaki clothing as camou- lengths of the ambient light that are reflected ful fish camouflage it is interesting to take just flage in the first Boer War; by the fishes. It is this reflected light that enters a very short look at the other types of camou- in the second Boer War the the eye of a human or a fish to be perceived flage strategies used by fish. British did as well. as what humans call a colour. In common with Humans were very late compared with the The French suffered heavy other known reef fish populations Hawaiian fishes in discovering the survival advantages of losses during the first World reef fish reflect light in the spectral wavelength camouflage on the battlefield, and it was not War, because the troops region of 300-800 nm. This is an illustration of until the middle of the nineteenth century that wore red trousers as part of the fact that we see reef fishes in all the col- their uniform rather ours of the rainbow. Yellow or orange with than, say, khaki, blue, yellow with black, and black with white thus learning a bit- are the most frequently combined colours. ter lesson about The authors state that “trends in fish colours the need for cam- seem to indicate that there are both visually ouflage. driven selection pressures and chemical or physical restraints on the design of colours. UV- TOP TO reflecting colours can function as semi-private BOTTOM: communication signals. White or yellow with Movement, sound, silhouette, Common Sand Goby black form highly contrasting patterns that shine, shape and shadow can (Denmark) transmit well through clear water.” all betray the presence of a Sculpine But as we have seen, fish cannot perceive soldier to the enemy on the bat- (Denmark) yellow as such, due to lack of the necessary tlefield. For fishes the enemy are Crockodilefish visual pigments, and will thus only see it ach- the predators, the sharks and (Borneo) romatically, i.e. non-coloured, as a lighter or killer whales, and the battlefield darker grey. Therefore, the patterns perceived is the submarine environment in INSET: on fishes by other fish is not due to colour but and around the coral reefs. Plaice only to an achromatic contrast between the Plaice, turbot brill and floun- (Denmark) reflecting white or partially reflecting yellow khaki uniforms were introduced in the fighting der can match patterns of mud, gravel and areas, and the almost totally non-reflecting in Afghanistan. sand so carefully that they can even mimic a black areas. Fishes see other fishes, not in The uniforms of modern soldiers are now chess-board. colour, but only as patterns of non-coloured nearly always basically khaki coloured to grey stripes or areas, and black. If these ach- match with the earth colours of sand and soil, Movement romatic patterns are similar to those arising in or khaki/green to match with foliage, depend- One useful strategy is to keep still and hope the coral reef environment (for these highly ing on the battlefield. But this is not the only, or that your enemy won’t see you. This is a strat- colured reefs will also be seen achromatically) even main factor in camouflage.

Wall corals with Anthias

70 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Scuba Diving in Thailand Fish Fashion The Ocean Rover Liveabaord science LEFT: Angler fish The brand new Ocean Rover is a 30- (Malaysia) meter long true luxury liveaboard offering all comforts and ease of diving operations that discerning liveaboard divers have come to expect. This fast vessel has state-of- the-art technical equipment and the highest safety rating in the business. There are eight cabins on the main and upper decks for maximum of sixteen passengers. Six of the cabins have queen-size double beds and single upper berths and panorama windows. Two of the cabins have wide upper and lower berths and dual portholes. All cabins feature individually controlled air-condi- tioning, plenty of storage space and private bathrooms. The huge dive deck has several camera tables and rinse tanks, and the lower section of the deck slopes down to the waterfront for easy access to the water. The spa- cious salon offers comfortable dining and sitting arrangement, a fully equipped entertainment center and a camera charging area. There is also a bar and an extensive marine life library. The aft part of the upper deck is partially shaded and features a bar, a large table, and lounge chairs for relaxing between dives and admir- Which came first, fish color or reef color? ing the scenery. This is everyone`s favorite area! Ocean Rover`s six- egy used by, for example, goby and among the coral branches, where its teen guests are looked after by twelve dedicated and friendly crew sculpine. stripes serve to confuse its outline. members. Also, as soldiers attach leaves and Silhouette and shadow grass to their helmets to camouflage Areas of operation Ocean Rover’s main area of operation is the Andaman Sea off the west coast of These may be avoided by keeping their shape, so spider crabs attach Thailand and Myanmar. The 8-night, 10-night and 11-night dive cruises take you away from light sources by hiding pieces of algae to their carapaces. to the Similan Islands, Richelieu Rock and Myanmar’s Burma Banks and Mergui under an overhanging coral. We see, then, that fishes have Archipelago. During the off season, the Ocean Rover operates diving cruises in evolved quite complex camouflage North Sulawesi (June-August) and adventure cruises in Malaysia (September- Shape strategies for survival in and against the October). The problem here is to break up the background of the coloured reefs. But CONTACT: familiar fish outline and make it less quite another question is, of course, recognisable. Like the soldiers uniforms why the reefs themselves are so vividly Dominick Macan which are coloured in broken patterns coloured. What role do colours play for 800-794-9767 to look like leaves, so can fish camou- the reefs themselves? Are they camou- [email protected] flage themselves. At the approach of flaging themselves against something? a diver an angelfish will try to hide itself And if so, what? ■ www.reefrainforest.com

Decorator Crab, Puget Sound (USA)

71 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Ice-Diving Explore the Russian underwater world in the White Sea Text edited by Gunild Pak Symes Photos by Andrey Bizyukin, PhD.

The White Sea has sublime water 540 km from north to south and covers clarity. It forms indescribably approximately 91,000 square kilometers. It is an inlet of the Barents Sea. In the winter, beautiful ice and peculiar fantas- the White Sea is covered with ice from tical ice shapes. The water tem- December until April. It is a perfect place perature hovers around 0-10°C for ice diving. and nurtures plenty of marine At Nereis Dive Center in Chupa, located on the Karelsky Shore of Kandalaksha Bay, life, which makes the White Sea divers use snowmobiles to race to various one of the best spots in Europe dive sites on the frozen sea. Sledges full for ice-diving. of diving tanks are transported across the lambent snow and ice while cold northern Located about 1200 km (800 miles) north wind whips divers’ ears which are defrost- of St. Petersburg, in the Artic region of ed in warm folding-houses at the dive site. the far northwestern part of Russia, the Everything for the pleasure and comfort of White Sea is an inland sea that stretches divers is provided.

The White Sea shore line is a spectacular gallery of natural ice sculptures in the winter

72 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED features White Sea

INSET: A diver prepares to explore the underwater world under the icy surface

LEFT: nature’s ice sculpture

RIGHT: A sunstar lifted from its watery bed

BACKGROUND: snowmobile tracks on the frozen snow-covered surface of the White Sea

The main attraction in this scenic land is temperate to artic climate. Life thrives in White Sea. The white whale is actually ducks, sandpipers and nesting ember the base. Depending on the dive site and the White Sea. There is a serene beauty in a vivid and peculiar underwater world. classified as a dolphin in Russia, even geese at various times of the year. Deep your qualifications, you can see a range winter, with the sea’s undulating coastline Rocks are covered with soft corals, actinia though Europeans consider it part of the and extensive forests of coniferous trees of things, such as flat bottom landscapes where glacier movement has carved the and hydroids. Cracks in between stones whale family. Unlike dolphins, the white cover the region and filter the air. It is with large kelp, sheer walls with actinia, landscape, fishing boats frozen along the reveal lots of starfish, crabs, shrimps, her- whale has active joints in the neck area amazingly clean and fresh air. ascidium, soft corals and bryozoa, small shore, weather-worn cabins with wood mit crabs and sleeping fish. Among the that help it to easily turn its head. sea-urchins and White Sea crabs, lots smoke rising from their chimneys and the fish species are lancet fish, rockfish, floun- Above water, one can spot squirrels Dive sites of small sea animals, starfishes and a clinking silence above the ice-covered der, herring and cod. and hares, bear, wolf, lynx, deer and A variety of dive sights and wrecks can grotto. bays. White whales, seals, Greenland seals, elk. Bird watchers can find hazel-grouse, be reached by one of the dive center’s Divers reach depths from 15 to 35 The fauna of the sea is reflective of the sea-hares can also be spotted at the black-cock, partridge, wood-grouse, cutter ships within an hour or more from meters. The deeper the dive, the darker

73 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED features White Sea Kartesh Cape (MYS KARTESH) This dive is made from a cutter moored to a rock at a location near the Marine Biology Station of the Academy of Science where there is a beautiful stream. Divers follow a stone precipice below which wolf fishes make their home in a bunch of large boulders. Sea anemones populate the area, and at 22 m, there are densely packed soft corals growing on the smooth slime bottom. Depth ranges from 30-35 m. Sidorov Island (OSTROV SIDOROV – MEZHOSTROVYE) Another dive made from a cutter at a location one and half hours from the dive center, divers explore a strait between two big islands. One can dive there even during a storm. On the Sidorov Island’s side there is a good stand. At 3-4 m depth, one will find lots of small fishes and a verti- A diver gets ready to take the plunge in the first ice-dive of the day cal wall leading to a depth of 18 m where ascidians and sponges grow. A bit further along, one can find wolf fish, and colder it gets, so appropriate gear is a must. cod, crabs and shrimps living at a stone precipice with Wreck divers can explore a sunken fishing seiner on big stones and holes. The maximum depth is 25 m. a shallow dive where numerous fish such as lancet fish, cod, rockfish, flounder, and small fishes make their home. Keret’ Island – Dry Rock Following are some of the most interesting dive sites to (OSTOV KKERET – SOOHAYA SKALA) explore. Listed as “an ideal diving site for beginners and wives,” this location takes 40 minutes to reach by cutter from the Chernyshov Island dive center. At a stone precipice, divers can find lots of (OSTROV CHERNYSHOV) holes with wolf fishes. From 20 m, divers explore a sandy Ten to 15 minutes from the dive center is a dive site where soft corals grow densely along a rocky cape extending from a sandy precipice. Depth is 30-35 m. There are lots of ascidians and starfishes.

Deer Island Shipwreck (OSTROV OLENIY) At 18 m, there is a shipwreck near Deer Island 30 minutes from the center. The wreck stands upright on its keel. Divers can explore the interior of the ship. Korovya Varoka (the rock) (KOROVYA VAROKA – MATERIK) Here, divers find wolf fishes, anemones, soft corals, shrimps, sea spiders, snails, mollusks and sea urchins. A wall leads to a heap of big stones with holes where the wolf fishes live. At 20m, a precipice drops to about 30-35 m beyond which lies a sandy bottom.

ABOVE: Light bursts through cracks in the surface ice RIGHT: Gear and divers are transported creating an eerie frozen translucent roof over head to the dive site by snowmobile

74 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED features White Sea ◄Sunlight filters through various layers of ice creating a canopy of light gleaming through a golden glass-like ceiling.

►A delicate nudibranch is one of the many small creatures to be cap- tured on macro photography at the whie Sea.

▼Nereis Dive Center is actually built on and around the hull of a ship ren- ovated to house comfortable rooms, restaurant and dive center facilities PHOTO BY PETER SYMES

bottom covered with different types of ures 35 m. The walls have cracks in them COURTESY OF NEREIS DIVE CENTER PHOTO BY PETER SYMES starfishes. Directly below the moored cut- where divers can find sleeping perches ter at 3-5 m, there is a beautiful carpet of hiding. The exit can be seen from all points anemones, which grow on a vertical wall. in the cave, which has a length of 20m. Vertical walls flank the right and left sides Kishkin Island – The Cave of the cave entrance. The cutter moors to (OSTROV KISHKIN – GROT) the rock above the cave. About two hours from the center, divers can enjoy cave diving at Kishkin Island. A Day in the Life of the Ice Diver A vertical wall leads to a protruding rock The daily routine involves a casual but at 20-22 m, which marks the entrance to satisfying schedule. Divers get up in the the underwater cave. The cave’s ceiling is morning, go upstairs to the dining hall to covered with a carpet of anemones and have a hot breakfast of crepes, bread and soft corals. As one continues through the marmalade, oatmeal, coffee or tea and cave, the ceiling lowers and the walls nar- special dishes prepared with fresh catches row. At the end of the cave, depth meas- from the White Sea. After breakfast, staff COURTESY OF NEREIS DIVE CENTER ABOVE: A hand-drawn map shows the geography and some of the attractions around Nereis Dive Center INSET: one of the many large anemones found thriving in the White Sea

75 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED features White Sea

ALL PHOTOS THIS PAGE BY PETER SYMES

and divers load their gear Michael Vedekhin take in a view of an absolutely fantastic After ascending to the surface, every- onto transport vehicles and Today, we went on a long trip to Cape landscape – stony conglomerations with body felt amazed. We went to the house drive across the ice to the Kartesh for a whole day. Snow scoot- ledges, laminaria seaweed gardens to a to warm up and have something to eat, dive site. Putting into sea and ers rode easily across the deep-frozen depth of five meters, And, starting at 20 and then hastened to make the next getting to the dive site usu- snow. Most of the way we rode through meters – a beautiful precipice (nobody dive. There are so many things to look at ally takes about one and a forest and finally found ourselves at the knows how deep it is). From my half to two hours. It is also mouth of the Keret River. We were really position – I was almost at the end possible to dive close to the amazed with the beauty of the non- of the safety line – I could easily base, thereby saving time in freezing rapids, bright sun and blue sky. see other lanes and divers near transportation. We ventured out to Chupa Bay on the them. Moreover, comparatively Then, there is the first dive, White Sea where a friend of mine caught thin ice (25 cm) and bright sun lunch at the island, second sight of several seals lying on ice blocks in striking through it makes wonder- dive if desired and off you the distance. ful enigmatic lighting effects. But go back to base to a warm At Cape Kartesh, the support team the thing I really enjoyed was shower and a short snooze welcomed us – five people from the the shoreline. You cannot get the on a comfy bed in your cozy room at the ing anecdotes and tips are shared. maintenance staff. The lanes were made, same view from the surface, but hotel before it is time for dinner at the safety-lines were prepared, diving tanks here there was an indescribable dive center’s restaurant. Personal accounts and gear were waiting for the divers. line of small and large pieces of Of course, after dinner one must par- Nobody tells a story better than those Nearby there was a small, warm and ice broken up that created great take of the local customs and bond who experience ice-diving for themselves. comfy house. To say that we liked that patterns. with one’s fellow dive buddies by sitting Here are a couple personal accounts dive is to say nothing! It was absolutely According to the computer, together and sweating in the beautifully from local divers to give you a glimpse unbelievable and gorgeous! the water temperature here was constructed Russian birchwood sauna on into the wonders of the White Sea ice-div- Above all, there was the great visibility, about minus 1-20˚C. That is why the ground floor of the center. Divers swap ing experience. which was more than 30 meters. The crys- after 40 or 50 minutes in the water, stories about diving the sea, and interest- tal clear waters gave us an opportunity to one can feel a little bit cold.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Soft coral, Nudibranch, Stauromedusae, Sculpine INSET: Sea devil

76 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED features White Sea underwater! It was a really perfect, amazing unmercifully. The snow is sparkling and the and unusual dive. water attracts us with its incredible clarity. We are seated at the ice-lane edge and start Alexandra Vlasova descending quickly while trying to March 8 is International Women’s Day. Let’s take our first breath underwater. celebrate this day with an ice-dive! The dive site is situated not far from the hotel, near ALL PHOTOS THIS PAGE BY PETER SYMES Chernishev Island. Perfect dry, sunny weather. It takes us only five minutes by snow- Going deeper along the wall and paying close The hotel, which was built by the owner-dive mas- scooter to arrive at the dive site. My attention to the kelp, one can see plenty of life ter, Yuri Borakov, and opened on July 15, 2003, offers buddy, Julia Lonn, will have her around – starfish, actinia, polyps and soft corals. The double rooms, hot water, sauna and three meals first ice-dive, and I will have purpose of this dive is not to go too deep, but to a day in the hotel’s restaurant. With a friendly and make an exploration of the ice (as much as possible). personable staff, the Nereis Dive Center and Hotel is my first sea ice-dive. Because of ebbs and flows, the ice along the shore the most comfortable and practical way to go when After getting dressed cracks and breaks, making underwater hummocks taking on the adventure of ice-diving in some of the in the warm house and small grottos. Sunshine is coming through the most beautiful and awe-inspiring wilderness of the we do some ice-cracks and shimmers with lots of colors. Air bub- great northwestern artic region of Russia. planning near bles traveling inside the ice intensify the impression. As Nereis Dive Center is located in Chupa, a small the ice-lane. We are so delighted! Let’s have some fun. Turning Russian village with visible remnants of the Soviet The sun is upside down we show each other figure skating. past and multi-generational peasant life, visitors are beating Unfortunately time is up and we have to ascend. treated with the greatest care and pride. All the staff down On the surface, the guys from the support group are local and wish to share their joy in the natural salute us. Well done, ladies! We get changed, go beauty and culture of their region with divers from all back to the hotel and have a hot sauna. Fabulous, over the world. unforgettable memories, good friends and excellent Not only will divers enjoy the natural beauty of the vacations. area and the White Sea, but divers will also experience the warmth and hospitality of the Russian peo- Requirements ple, their age-old customs and delicious hearty home- There are some things divers need to know and pre- cooked meals, traditional folk song and dance, lively pare before coming to the Nereis Dive Center for the discussions and Russian wry wit and humor, as well as ice diving experience including specific equipment lots of the best caviar and vodka available to wan- requirements, certification requirements and special dering adventurers on the planet. Nostrovia! ■ services available at the center. It is recommended that divers be certified with one of the major dive education schools such as CMAS, PADI, NAUI or IDD. Divers are encouraged to bring their own dry suits, regulators (DIN or YOKE), BCD, fins, mask and snorkel. There are convenient and very effective equipment drying rooms at the center, two compressors and a decompression chamber. It is possible to upgrade your qualification and get your next CMAS certificate at the dive center. One can also dive individually with an instructor. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Stauromedusae, Wolf fish, Nudibranch, Tube worm, Grotto decorated with soft coral

77 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Day 1 Depart from your local airport. Arrive in St. White Petersburg. A guide meets Sea you at the airport after visa factWhite file Sea, Russia and customs check and drives you to your hotel in Ice-diving St. Petersburg. The day and evening are for your own sightseeing plans. Day 8 Breakfast. Dive trip with boat: First dive, excursion to see wild birds, Day 2 The first half of the day is for lunch break at a peaceful spot, sec- your own sightseeing. Around 3pm, ond dive. Return to hotel for dinner. the guide comes to pick you up After dinner concert with local musi- at your hotel and drives you to the cal performing group. History After 200 years of Mongol train station where you take the domination in the 13th-15th c., the Murmansk train around 3:45pm. You Day 9 Return to St. Petersburg: Principality of Muscovy, which was have quarters in the first class sleeper Breakfast at the dive center-hotel established in the 12th c., was able car. A host comes with small lunch- and a quick morning dive if desired. to emerge and gradually expand boxes and serves tea and coffee. Depart dive center around 2pm on with the conquest of surrounding ABOVE: Map of Chupa and surrounding area The train also has a restaurant car. the minibus to the train station at principalities. The Romanov Dynasty INSET: Location of White Sea in relationship to Europe Chupa. Take the night train back to Day 3 Just after noon, the train St. Petersburg. continued the expansion across arrives in Chupa. Staff from Nereis Siberia to the Pacific in the early 17th 19th c. During Soviet rule, the port cies. Deep sea areas are occupied An inlet of the arents Sea, the mainly by arctic fauna. Dive Center picks you up in their Day 10 Arrive in St. Petersburg c. Territorial conquest continued with became an important naval and White Sea is located on the North What to see: Anemones, large soft minibus and drives about 40 km to around mid-day. You are picked up the Russian Empire through to the submarine base and the White Sea Western coast of Russia. Karelia lies coral, huge starfish and sunstars, but the dive center-hotel. On arrival, and taken to your hotel. The day 19th c. The devestation left by the was closed to Norwegians by 1918. to the west of the sea and the Kola the enourmous Russian sea kelp is you receive a little snack and a tour and evening are yours for your own two World Wars led to the overthrow The 1990’s saw a reopening of the peninsula lies to the north. seasonal and can only be seen in around the center. Relax in room. activities. of the royal family in 1917. Soon sea to Norwegian and other western warmer weather. Dry suit required. Lenin and Communism came to scientists, plus trade and tourism. Climate ranges from steppes in A deco-chamber is located at Day 4 Breakfast at the center’s res- Day 11 Departure from Russia: power at the formation of the USSR. the south through humid continental Nereis Dive Center in Chupa. taurant. Dive trip with boat: First dive, You are picked up at your hotel in lunch break, second dive optional. Russian dominance of the Soviet Un- Government: federation in much of European Russia; subar- the middle of the afternoon and ctic in Siberia to tundra climate in Return for dinner at the hotel. ion was strengthened by Stalin at the : Moscow Travel Agency/Dive Center driven to the airport where you take Capital the polar north; winters vary from Penguin Travel a flight back to your local airport. cost of millions of lives. Stagnation in cool along Black Sea coast to frigid Day 5 Breakfast. the economy and society followed Geography 17,075,200 sq km; www.penguin.dk in Siberia; summers vary from warm Dive trip with Trip Extention: St. Petersburg is a city Northern Asia bordering the Arctic Nereis Dive Centre until Gorbachev introduced glasnost in the steppes to cool along Arctic boat: First dive, to explore and experience! You can Ocean, between Europe and the www.nereis.spb.ru (openness) and perestroika (restruc- coast. excursion to a little arrange for more sightseeing days in North Pacific Ocean. Regions west turing) in the 80’s. Swift changes old village Keret the city prior to or after the dive trip of the Urals are included with Eu- Web sites led to the splintering and fall of the The population of Pomors. Then to the White Sea. rope; Terrain: broad plain with low Population of Russia is 143,782,338 (2004 est.), lunch at a tranquil Soviet Union in 1991. A struggle to es- hills west of Urals; vast coniferous Russian Tourism Ethnicity: Russian 81.5%, Tatar 3.8%, spot and a sec- Penguin Travel is the Blue Horizons’ tablish a democratic political system forest and tundra in Siberia; uplands www.russiatourism.ru Ukrainian 3%, Chuvash 1.2%, Bashkir ond dive. Return agent for air travel to Russia. and market economy has occupied and mountains along southern bor- St. Petersburg 0.9%, Belarusian 0.8%, Moldavian for dinner at the- Russia ever since. Recentralization of der regions; Coastline: 37,653 km; www.saint-petersburg.com 0.7%, other 8.1%; Religion: Russian hotel. CONTACT: [email protected] power and erosion of some demo- Resources: wide natural resource Hermitage Museum Orthodox, Muslim and other religions. Blue Horizons Expedition & Dive Club cratic institutions have occured base including major deposits of oil, www.hermitagemuseum.org Day 6 Breakfast. Dive trip with boat: www.bluehorizons.dk under President Putin while guerilla natural gas, coal, many strategic White Sea Biological Station First dive, then a little hike on one minerals, timber; Formidable obsta- Currency Russian ruble (RUR). conflict in Chechnya still plagues Exchange rates: 10 RUR = .27 EUR / www.zin.ru/wsbs of the small islands where the guide Russian leadership. cles of climate, terrain, and distance talks about the nature of the area. hinder exploitation of natural re- .36 USD. Language Russian The important port on the White Books Lunch follows in a tranquil spot and a sources; largest country in the world second dive. Return for dinner. Sea is Arkhangelsk. For much of in terms of area but unfavorably lo- Diving maximal depth of the White Sea Ecology & Environment Russia’s history this port was Russia’s White Sea (340 m); salinity varies V. Berger and S. Dahle, eds., cated in relation to major sea lanes Day 7 Breakfast. Dive trip with boat: main center of international mari- from 0 ‰ in estuaries to 30 ‰ in Zoological Institute - Russian of the world; despite its size, much of First dive, excursion to the White Sea places exceeding 200 m. Surface time trade. Norwegian and Russian the country lacks proper soils and cli- Academy of Sciences, $34 USD Biological Station. Lunch follows in salinity in open sea is about 25 ‰. sailors, merchants and fishermen mates (either too cold or too dry) for Akvaplan-niva, Tromsø, 2001. a tranquil spot and a second dive. Upper water layer ranges 12-15°C interacted in the region of the agriculture; Mount El’brus is Europe’s www.akvaplan.niva.no ■ Return for dinner at the hotel. White Sea during the 18th and tallest peak. and are inhabited by boreal spe-

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79 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Portfolio Todd Essick “Goddesses, Sirens, and Mermaids” is an attempt to unite the grace and beauty of the sea with that of the female form and, in wedding the two, find a medium of expression capable of approaching the divine mystery all great art aspires to explore. --- Todd Essick Capturing Sirens Recently named one of the top ten underwater photographers in the world by Unterwasser Magazine, award-winning American artist and photo journalist, Todd Essick, tells X-RAY MAG about his new book that is sure to appeal to the aesthetic tastes of many a diver, underwater art and marine life lover. X-RAY MAG: Tell us about yourself and how you got into photography and into this particular style of photography. TE: Well I had an interest in photography at a very early age. I think I had my first SLR when I was probably 12 or 13 which was kind of earlier than most. When I was in middle school, I managed to get the backing to do a yearbook even though the school was closing. So, here I was doing it even before high school. And then, throughout high school I always took pictures. But then after high school, I didn’t have the family support to pursue photography. They didn’t believe it was a viable profession. So I went off to college to study biology, thinking that I might go into marine bi- Ole Siren ology or something like that. And as I finished my first year of college, I found that I just really wanted to do photography.

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So, I decided that I would go to a com- the first roll and find a picture and say, mercial art school. I went for two years “Here, print this. This is what we’ll put out.” and acquired an Associate’s degree in But I’d say, “Well, what about the other commercial art doing advertising at the nine rolls?” And he’d say, “I got the pic- Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale. But in my ture I need. I don’t know what’s on there, last year of school, I got an internship with but I got this, so…” (Essick laughs) He’d the Miami Herald and was bitten by the say, “Just shoot what we need. You don’t photo journalism bug. have to shoot everything.” I almost didn’t graduate from art school I started figuring out what they needed because I was spending all my time at the and what the picture was. So, by the end, ‘M’ out on assignment for the Miami Her- I was shooting one roll and a half a roll in ald — going on drug busts, murders, foot- another camera just in case the first cam- ball games, baseball, tennis... anything era didn’t work. What’s interesting, is that they wanted me to do, I did. Through this it’s transcended to this project. work with the Miami Herald, I built up a People ask me how much film I shoot. I photojournalism portfolio. I just had to do really don’t shoot that much. I might aver- it everyday. age turning over the camera one or two Once I graduated from art school, I times a day, maybe 10-12 rolls a day if took my portfolio to the Associated Press I’m lucky. It’s not that much film. It’s be- in Miami. And the editor took a look at my cause of what my editor at Associated stuff and said, “It looks pretty good. When Press said... I was really taught to wait for do you want to start?” I said, “Tomorrow.” the moment. Shoot the picture, not eve- He said, “All right.” rything before and after it. Pick what you So, for the next 7 to 8 years, I worked as want, get it and move on. a freelance daily photographer for them. Photojournalism technique works per- I built up my reputation over the years with fectly with this project because it is such them, and it was really there that I cut my a fast moving process. The animals move teeth at being a photographer. and everything comes together. You’re When I first started shooting on loca- watching it gel. You’re anticipating it and tion, I would shoot tons of film, and I really watching. You go in thinking you want didn’t know what I was doing — that was this picture — you have an idea of what the proving ground. That was where I real- you want — but it’s not what you get. You ly learned. By the time I left, I was shooting can’t predict how it’s going to turn out. very little film and still getting just as good So, you’re just watching and waiting for pictures. It was one of those “less is more” the moment. You think, “Yeah, that’s a Mermaid Ballet things, where I knew what I was supposed good picture” (click) and you take it. It’s to be getting and nothing else. just grabbing the moment when you see In choosing a subject, the artist must It’s really kind of a funny story... When I it. consider first what it is he wishes to first started with Associated Press, I would bring back ten rolls from an assignment, X-RAY MAG: So how did this project come convey to his audience, what secrets and my boss would be shaking his head about? Was it your idea? he wishes to divulge, what enigmas and saying, “What are you doing?” He’d TE: Oh, yeah. When I was a photo journal- develop the film and would go through ist, I was sent on a freelance assignment he wishes to demystify. --- Todd Essick

81 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED portfolio Todd Essick for a weekly newspaper in Miami Now, I am a daily news photog- having the time of my life. to do a story on the dolphin swim rapher in Miami, but when I need Well, five or six years of doing programs in The Keys of Florida, to get away, I go to Key West this, it had basically become my starting in Key West and Key and go swimming with dolphins. escape. I never took an under- Largo —there’s about five or six I leave my cameras at home. I water picture. I was just on my of them, I guess. I started at Key always leave my cameras to go own having fun. West at dawn, shot a portrait of to Key West. Then, I had a really amazing this guy, Ron, who takes people I’d go down there, sleep on the experience with the dolphins. I out to swim with wild dolphins. boat, be like a crew member, got in with a pod — first a group I was packing up my bag and and basically go find dolphins of young males that were fool- he goes, “What? You’re not go- for the people to swim with since ing around. They were playing ing to go out with me?” And I I had become adapted to do- with me, and I was swimming say, “Well, I’ve got five other as- ing so. Over the years, I learned really hard. They’d come up to signments.” And he says, “Well how to get them to come to us. me — and you’re talking about you come back when you can, When we saw them in the me swimming as hard as I can, and I’ll show what it’s really like distance, Ron would just throw and they’re swimming as slow swimming with wild dolphins.” me in the middle of the ocean, as they can — and trying to say So, about two weeks later, leave me and sail off. I’d be to me, “Come on, man, come I go down to see Ron, and we playing with the dolphins and swim with us.” fast become best friends. Flash they’d sail back and the people One dolphine would keep in- ahead for the next five years... would get in the water. I was just troducing me to the rest of the

Siren Tale It is not surprising that two of the subjects artists have returned to time and again are the vast landscapes of the earth’s oceans and the eloquent beauty of the female form. Taken together, these subjects represent all of the majesty, mystery and beauty one could ever wish to contemplate and ever fail to harness. --- Todd Essick Mermaid Affection

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pod, bringing others over to me. Then, I “It can’t be done. It’s just impossible.” The just had them all lined up beside me, and tangibles were just too great — too much they were all saying in their dolphin way, money, too many tangibles. It just can’t “Come on, swim with us.” happen. Then, they brought me to the rest of the So, it sat on my computer. And I actual- pod. I was with 20 other dolphins. And ly, at that point, got out of photography. there were moms and babies, dominant I got into the music business and some males and so on. They were just letting other businesses. I basically retired from me hang out with the group and watch photography. I ended up in Chicago with — I was just part of the group. One kept an Internet business. I was in love. Life was saying, “Come on, come over with us.” great — it was a great time. I was volun- Or they would come over and check me teering at the Shedd Aquarium swimming out, “Hey, what’s he doing?” with beluga whales and Pacific white-sid- This went on for about a half hour. It was ed dolphins — just having a great time. just so amazing. I was just overwhelmed Then, the Internet boom went bust, and with awe. my business crashed. I fell out of love. Finally, the boat comes back and Ron There I was, sitting at one of those cross- is watching from the boat. He sees it. He roads in life, and I said to myself, “What knows what I am going through because do I do now?” he’s had it happen to him before. David Doubilet came and spoke at the The boat shows up, and I am totally ex- Shedd Aquarium. His pictures were just so hausted. I’ve been swimming with these incredibly inspiring. A little light bulb in my things for half an hour, and I am totally head went off. I turned to my buddy and spent. I crawl up on the boat as the peo- I said, “It’s time to do my project. What ple get in the water, and the dolphins re- ever it takes.” This was four and a half ally didn’t stick around that much longer. I years ago. just turned to Ron — I really couldn’t even talk — and he says, “So, they let you into X-RAY MAG: Doubilet’s work tends to the club today. They gave you the secret have that effect on people… dolphin hand shake.” And I said, “Yeah, TE: Yeah. But I wasn’t intimidated. I saw his they sure did.” work and as great as he is, it wasn’t like I On our way back to shore, I said to Ron, felt that I could never do something simi- “You know, if there was a way to illustrate lar. Rather, I thought, “I want to do that, Connection the connection we have with these ani- and I want to do my work, my project.” mals, this would be amazing.” I thought Of course, I can’t compare my work to Artistic expression, like poetic expres- maybe a beautiful nude woman swim- his. All I can say, is that his work is inspiring, sion, has long sought to speak the ming with these dolphins would make a and it was really his images of the manta beautiful picture and show that connec- rays in Hawaii off the Kona Hotel where he ineffable, to define that which defies tion. Ron said, “That’s a great idea. You used HMI lighting — heavy strong beams definition, to impose scale upon the better do it. Because if you don’t, I will.” of light with the mantas and a diver — that majesty of the universe and a palpa- So, that was the initial idea. I went inspired me. And I thought, “My God! You home, and I wrote it out on the compu- put a beautiful nude woman in that pic- ble medium in which to portray its ter — figuring it as a project with multiple ture, and you have something.” beauty. animals and multiple locations — trying to That’s all I could think of. Every time I figure out exactly what it would take to started looking at his stuff, I was thinking, --- Todd Essick do it. Then I read it, and I said to myself, “You know, if you put a beautiful nude

83 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED portfolio Todd Essick UV-fotoutrustning för proffs Även för digitalkameror ing off a waterfall, and there’s she doesn’t panic, make sure she is a beautiful deep pool of water comfortable. For me, it is so impor- and sharp jagged rocks at the tant that each model is relaxed and bottom. Well, I am already over comfortable, because it transcends the waterfall, so I better be into the pictures. I had about ten heading for the deep pool and staff members. not the rocks. I was committed, so I just kept going. And how did you get it into the pub- Thankfully, in our next time out lication stage? to the Bahamas, even though It actually started out as a PR piece. the weather went bad on us, I I was going to do a booklet. Then, started to see the pictures that some of my friends in publishing I wanted — just a couple of im- started looking at it, and they said, ages. I said, “We’re close. This “You know, a few more pictures and can happen. We are going maybe some writing, break it up right to get there.” And the models — this could really be a book.” AQUA-BILDER Leif-Göran Hjelm agreed. They started making So, then I approached the project www.aqua-bilder.nu Tel: 0708-293341 suggestions. in a whole different way. It gradu- I was worried about the safe- ated to a book. Then it all became ty issues for them, and whether about what to write for it and how to we were pushing the bound- break it up, how to edit the pictures. saries too much. But, the mod- My original design was far from els said, “No, no, we can do what this book is now. I’d given a Next Issue: MARCH this!” So, we continued. friend of mine, who is a book and We finally went out there and magazine designer, the specs of Focus on we did it. And in the first real what I wanted the book to be. He shoot, it was just amazing. I got basically laid it out the way I wanted The Americas just incredible images and built it. But when I got to Singapore to look up on those. Our total trips out at the proofs, he said, “I want you to to the Bahamas were 4 or 5. look at this idea I have. I laid it out To order Todd Essick’s new book, go to in a different way, and I want you to Coming to a www.essickphoto.com X-RAY MAG: So did the models look at it with an open mind. also build up relationships with He pulled it up on the computer PC near you the dolphins? ,and I went through it. I looked at it woman in that — now that would re- done. TE: The dolphins in the images again. I didn’t say a word. I looked at April 1st 2005! ally be a picture.”(Essick laughs) It’s When we first started, I went were those in the dolphin swim pro- it one more time, and then I turned already an incredible picture, and through a period of testing gear and grams, because I needed to be sure to him, and I said, “It’s yours. The here I am trying to make it better. films and models. We started in Crys- I could get dolphins. But even in the book’s not mine anymore. It’s yours. Subscribe FREE! I think people can also think in that tal River, Florida, to get with the man- best of circumstances, dolphins can It’s beautiful.” So, that’s how the de- way, but that one drops the nudes atees, and then we did a few dry be skittish. It took many sessions for sign came into being. in with Photoshop or something like runs out in the Bahamas with the dol- the dolphins to get very comfortable To download your that. It’s one of those dream shots. phins, and I didn’t get any pictures. and to move very slowly. X-RAY MAG: The book has a very clas- FREE copy, go to: You could never do it. Well, that is I said, “What am I doing! This is cra- sical look to it. It is not something you why I wanted to do what I do, be- zy.” I’m thinking to myself, I might as What were the technical considera- would normally see on the American cause I also thought that it couldn’t well cut my losses now, because I tions you had to have underwater? market. This seems more likely to be www.xray-mag.com be done. I was doublful that way have spent thousands of dollars and I had a safety diver assigned to each something one would see in Europe. up to the time I had already started I don’t have anything to show for it. model. It was their job to keep each TE: In fact, I get a better response the project. I thought it couldn’t be But I equated the situation to jump- woman safe. Get her air, make sure when I go to Europe. America has

84 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED portfolio Todd Essick not really embraced my work as I thought was Photoshop. X-RAY MAG: What is your next project? they would or could. I guess I am a very At first, I was just heart-broken. I thought, TE: This is actually the reason why the book open-minded liberal person, and this type “Do you guys know what it took to get is called “Beginnings” because I wanted of art to me is just natural. But to middle this?” And then, I had a very philosophi- to get some of the images out there now America, it’s not. It’s a little bit over the cal friend who said, “Oh, that was a com- and show people what I am doing, be- top. pliment. You have to take it as a compli- cause it is a lot more difficult to do this Now, I guess the best explanation I can ment. They just don’t even think you can than I thought it would be. The amount of give, or an example, is this: I did a show do this. It has to be Photoshop, because time it took to get to this point was a lot. in Chicago and a thirteen-year-old girl nobody could do it. And you’ve gone I want to continue with this project. started paging through my work. And her and done it.” I want to work with bigger animals. mother came by and looked over her So, now that’s how I approach it when I think I have another book in me that may shoulder and pulled her away from the somebody says something like — “it must include these images or may not. I want book. Then, I was in Antibes, (France), be Photoshop” — I just have to laugh, be- to do humpback whales, whale sharks, and I had my portfolio out and this moth- cause I think back to that first time when manta rays, numerous kinds of sharks, er is looking at my portfolio and telling me I was so upset that someone could even bigger animals and more dangerous ani- how incredible, how “magnifique” my think that way about the work. I figure, mals. Some stuff with wrecks. So, there’s work is, and her thirteen-year-old daugh- if they think that, then I must be doing a host of ideas that I want to try before ter walks by, and she grabs her and pulls something right. I completely move on from this project. her over to look at my work. That pretty Then when they do finally find out that This is merely the introduction. much explains it right there. it was not done with Photoshop they The attitudes are completely different. get taken to that place, “Oh, my God! X-RAY MAG: Other underwater photogra- I find that the Europeans understand what I can’t believe you really did that!” They phers who work with large animals such I am trying to do and appreciate it. I am are so convinced that it is really Pho- as whale sharks say it is very demanding not saying that people in America don’t toshop, that once you dispel that fact, work as you may have only five minutes understand it. It just isn’t their taste. But I they are just really thrown on the floor. It’s with the animal before it moves on. These think that the Europeans that I have met amazing, and I still get satisfaction out of large creatures swim very fast compared embrace it whole-heartedly. Not only do seeing that happen. to us humans. they get it, they love it. They love what I TE: Yes, and that’s what’s been really thought up and how I executed it, and X-RAY MAG: And you did not do any spe- great. I get to meet these people at the they understand how it was done. cial printing techniques as far as contrast, shows such as DEMA who appreciate my Immediately, when people see my work dodge and burn? work that have been nature photogra- in America, all they see is the nudity. TE: Right. It’s all straight. No manipulation phers for a hell of a lot longer than I have at all. And as you notice, we really worked and are much better at that type of work X-RAY MAG: They can’t get passed it? hard at having no bubbles. There are very than I am. TE: Right. And they are not thinking what few pictures where you actually see bub- I don’t consider myself a nature under- it took to get it, the concept, and putting bles. I think it is the reason why people water photographer at all. I am merely it together, how much technical skill it think that it was done with Photoshop, be- an underwater artist. I do underwater took. Not to say that it happens every cause it looks like I just took a picture shot fine art. My medium just happens to be time; there are plenty of people that on land and stuck it right onto the water. photography, and I just happen to do it understand, that get it and the difficulty Mermaid’s Smile underwater. I can’t compare myself to a and are very impressed. But on a whole, X-RAY MAG: No back-scatter. Excellent David Doubilet or any of those guys. I am it just seems like every time I go to Europe, behaviour between the two species so process and the technical aspects be- technique… no where near them as far as nature pho- I never get a negative response. clearly and so beautifully. hind your work. We are so inundated with TE: For me, I like to show the expanse of tography. I just had an idea for a project TE: The reason why we chose the pic- images, we often take it for granted how the ocean. In a lot of images, I like to and these were my tools. ■ X-RAY MAG: Your work shows that Classi- ture for the cover — and we had plen- difficult it is to do something like this. This is leave negative space to show infinity, cal Greek ideal of beauty. ty of choices obviously — was be- definitely not Adobe Photoshop. which is very important in a lot of the pic- To order Todd Essick’s book directly from TE: Yes, that’s actually what I was going cause it had that “Come and join TE: Yes, right. It was so funny... when I did tures. A lot of stuff is not shot very tight. the artist, visit: www.essickphoto.com. for. us” message, “Come and have fun.” my first show in the United States with a There are very few images that are. I re- Captain Ron Canning, Dolphin Watch: bunch of other artists, I had a few pictures ally like that sense of infinity — just out www.dolphinwatchusa.com X-RAY MAG: You can also see the X-RAY MAG: Thank you for sharing your up and yeah, they immediately thought it there, where everything just disappears.

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