Jain,!1 Indian embroidery Zardozi embroidery Komal Jain Integrative seminar Prarthana Patil February 6,2017 Jain,!2 Meaning of Embroidery Embroidery is an expression of self, rendered with patience and dedicated hard work, it is an art rightly described as "painting by needle". Embroidery adds grace and elegance, life and style even into articles of everyday use. Indian Embroidery takes inspiration from nature and religion. The colors , the base the theme and the style are reflective of a particular region. The patterns are decided upon on the basis of the fabric and its texture the stitches depend upon the style and the effect to be produced. Themes and motifs have remained as such for centuries. History of embroidery Through history, Indian embroidery has been a tradition and a name to implore with, as far back was the 3rd century Bc when greek traveler Megasthenes praised the muslins of India. In a garment from migration period Sweden, roughly 300 to 700 CE, the edges of bands of trimming are reinforced with running stitch and more, but its uncertain wether this work simply reinforced the seams or should be interpreted as decorative embroidery. The art of embroidery was of a great significance in the medieval islamic world. Embroidery is also known as “Crafts of the two hands” which was coined by a turkish traveler Evilya Celebi who visited India in the 17th Jain,!3 century. Also according to the muslim societies embroidery was considered as a status symbol which led to further popularity of this art. 1 Types of embroidery ( Very well Known) KUTCHWORK OR KUTCHI bharat as it is called in Gujarati comes from the Western region of India . Also known as Sindhi stitch , this beautiful technique is geometric in form . The stitches are worked by laying a foundation framework of herringbone stitch or cretan stitch. In the second part , this framework is filled with interlacing to completely fill the framed area . And combination of perfect framework and interlacing only , can produce the perfect motif. A unique thing about this stitch is that you never know how it will look till it is completed and the final product is a wonderful surprise to the embroiderer. A part of the wedding trousseau young girls are taught this craft as soon as they are able to hold the needle and they graduate from simple to complex designs as they learn this art from their elders. It is said that this technique originated in far away land of Armenia and found its way to Gujarat by travelling Nomads. Sindhi stitch or Maltese cross stitch is also similar but the innovation of the Kutchi women have taken it beyond the traditional designs.2 1 "Indian Heritage - Embroidery - Toda embroidery from Nilgris, Tamilnadu." Indian Heritage - Embroidery - Toda embroidery from Nilgris, Tamilnadu. Accessed February 06, 2017. http:// saigan.com/heritage/cci/toda/index.html. 2 Motidana. "The Beauty of Indian Embroidery - Kutchwork!" The Beauty of Indian Embroidery - Kutchwork! January 01, 1970. Accessed February 06, 2017. http://kalaabhushan.blogspot.in/ 2012/11/the-beauty-of-indian-embroidery.html. Jain,!4 Phulkari Embroidery ‘Phul’ means ‘flower’ and Kari means ‘craft or work’. Thus, Phulkari Embroidery refers to the Floral work embroidery. Punjab is renowned for the Phulkari hand embroidery. Phulkari is a folk art of Punjab. Thick clothes are used and the threads of various colours are used depending on the colour of the cloth. The usage of colour ‘red’ is most common. The designs are so stitched on the reverse as to give the effect of tapestry work. The borders are so covered as to make it difficult to distinguish between the cloth and the needlework. The motifs at times resemble those on the Kanthas of Bengal. Phulkari embroidery is often found on Shawls and scarves. The use of Darn Stitch is in vogue. The main diference between Phulkari and Bagh embroidery is that, in Phulkari , embroidery is done to enhance the beauty of the clothes. Whereas, in Bagh, the embroidered works covers the entire base of the cloth and the colour of the base cloth is not visible. This art is associated with the ‘JAT’ tribe – the cultivators and nomads. The jats carried their art wherever they went and hence this kind of embroidery is also found in Rajasthan and Gujarat. 3 Chikan Embroidery 3 "Sameeksha." Sameeksha. Accessed February 06, 2017. http://sameeksha.asia/index.php/ welcome/indian. Jain,!5 The Chikan Embroidery of Luknow is an example of rare beauty. Chikan is the name for using white thread in needlework on cloth. The art originated in Dhaka and from there traveled to Lucknow. The stitch is known as bukhia and also chhaya and jaal. A net like effect is created on the front side with stitches, on the reverse designs are created with fine stitches. Chikan embroidery is a type of Indian embroidery from the city of Lucknow, which was first popularized by Nur Jehan, the wife of Jahangir. In Persian, it literally means ‘cloth covered with needlework’. It is an extremely refined form of needlework that is known for its delicate beauty and pretty look. The history and origins of Chikan embroidery can be traced back to the medieval period, though it is quite hard to find one origin story that everyone agrees on. Some believe that this exquisite form of embroidery dates back to pre-Mughal times and was only given a kind of aesthetic makeover with the increased influence of Persian aesthetics in Mughal times while others believe Nur Jehan commissioned this type of embroidery for the first time. Whatever the true origins, it is certainly true that Chikan embroidery designs only became popular in the Mughal era, largely thanks to Nur Jehan’s patronage. First, the craftsmen create the designs which are to be embroidered on a piece of paper. These designs are then engraved on to a wood block, which is dipped in faint dyes and printed on the fabric to provide the outline for the Chikan embroidery patterns. The embroidery artisan then sews over the design using intricate embroidery techniques; finally, the fabric is washed to remove all traces of the print, leaving behind the gorgeous and delicate Chikan embroidery. Initially, Chikan embroidery was only done only using white threads on white fabrics and till today a pale color aesthetic is preferred.4 4 "Chikan Embroidery Dresses, Designs and Patterns | Utsav Fashion." Utsav Fashion Blog. December 28, 2016. Accessed February 06, 2017. http://blog.utsavfashion.com/crafts/chikan- embroidery. Jain,!6 Chamba Rumal of Himachal Rumal means handkerchief. The hand embroidery in himachal is famous for its Chamba Rumal. These hand embroideries are inspired from ‘Pahari Painting’. The fabric used is mostly khaddar or muslin. These have colourful borders and the darning stitch is used on the cloth, the thread being silken. The Chamba Rumal an unique example of the art of the Himachal Pradesh and Jammu, the artists drawing heavily on the mythologies for their designs. The pictoral handicraft in Chamba Rumal are distinct and are in wide demand all over. They are also used as a gift item. Rajasthan Handicraft The folk designs of Rajasthan can be seen in the handicraft works of . The embroidered seats are often made for horse and camel back. The best examples of this art in Rajasthan can be seen in Jaisalmer where together with stitching their own clothes, the women also make seats for horses Jain,!7 and camels, pillow covers, bed-covers, quilts, decorating these with attractive designs and motifs. Kantha Embroidery of Bengal The Kantha embroidery of bengal is similar to the hand-embroidery of other places in terms of motifs and the style of stitching. The Sujni Kantha of Bihar, particularly Gaya, Darbhaga and Madhubani, are also made exclusively by women using old pieces of clothes and threads from the sari borders. The simple Motif designs in Bengal, are drawn from everyday life. 5 Banjara embroidery Most of the Banjaras of Gujarat, Rajasthan & Andhra pradesh, embroider beautiful artifacts using mirrors. Around the mirrors different motifs are embroidered in traditional Indian stitches. 5 "Art & Culture Archives." ChennaiBest.com. Accessed February 06, 2017. http:// chennaibest.com/art-culture/. Jain,!8 Colours used are very bright because of absence of fauna and flora. The ‘Motikaam" or bead work, used in Banjara Embroidery, is like American Indian and Mexican bead work. This embroidery form also makes use of buttons, kowrees, coins etc. to enrich the embroidery. Kasuti from Karnataka Kasuti is one of the most exquisite forms of ethnic countered thread embroidery. Starting in North Karnataka in the 7th century A.D, has now spread all over the state and country. Traditional Kasuti motifs seem to have been inspired by the objects from daily life. E.g.:- temple towers, temple tank, Tulsi plant holders, Chariots, Birds, Animals etc. The Kasuti of Karnataka is very much like Austrian, Hungarian and Spanish embroidery. But the motifs and finishing are different.6 6 Ibid Jain,!9 Zardozi embroidery Introduction Different styles of Indian embroidery have been handed down from generation to generation such as Zardozi, Chikankari, Sujni, Kantha, Kasuti, Toda, mirror work. The passion for embroidery in India has led to great experimentation in the field, with several styles, creating dazzling effects such as the 'stained glass' look, the long cross stitch, rice stitch, textured panels and much more. One can see embroidery on wall hangings, saris, textiles and garments, incorporating unique motifs and patterns. Zardozi is one of the oldest and most beautiful embroidery styles of India. It is used extensively in clothing and home decoration. Painstakingly and delicately done by hand, creations in Zardozi work are timeless, unbounded by the shackles of trends.