Jain,1

Indian embroidery

Zardozi embroidery

Komal Jain

Integrative seminar

Prarthana Patil

February 6,2017 Jain,2

Meaning of Embroidery

Embroidery is an expression of self, rendered with patience and dedicated hard work, it is an art rightly described as "painting by needle". Embroidery adds grace and elegance, life and style even into articles of everyday use. Indian Embroidery takes inspiration from nature and religion.

The colors , the base the theme and the style are reflective of a particular region. The patterns are decided upon on the basis of the fabric and its texture the stitches depend upon the style and the effect to be produced. Themes and motifs have remained as such for centuries.

History of embroidery

Through history, Indian embroidery has been a tradition and a name to implore with, as far back was the 3rd century Bc when greek traveler Megasthenes praised the muslins of India. In a garment from migration period Sweden, roughly 300 to 700 CE, the edges of bands of trimming are reinforced with running stitch and more, but its uncertain wether this work simply reinforced the seams or should be interpreted as decorative embroidery. The art of embroidery was of a great significance in the medieval islamic world. Embroidery is also known as “Crafts of the two hands” which was coined by a turkish traveler Evilya Celebi who visited India in the 17th Jain,3 century. Also according to the muslim societies embroidery was considered as a status symbol which led to further popularity of this art. 1

Types of embroidery ( Very well Known)

KUTCHWORK OR KUTCHI bharat as it is called in Gujarati comes from the Western region of

India . Also known as Sindhi stitch , this beautiful technique is geometric in form . The stitches are worked by laying a foundation framework of herringbone stitch or cretan stitch. In the second part , this framework is filled with interlacing to completely fill the framed area . And

combination of perfect framework and interlacing only , can produce the perfect motif.

A unique thing about this stitch is that you never know how it will look till it is completed and the final product is a wonderful surprise to the embroiderer. A part of the wedding trousseau young girls are taught this craft as soon as they are able to hold the needle and they graduate from simple to complex designs as they learn this art from their elders.

It is said that this technique originated in far away land of Armenia and found its way to Gujarat by travelling Nomads. Sindhi stitch or Maltese cross stitch is also similar but the innovation of the Kutchi women have taken it beyond the traditional designs.2

1 "Indian Heritage - Embroidery - Toda embroidery from Nilgris, Tamilnadu." Indian Heritage - Embroidery - Toda embroidery from Nilgris, Tamilnadu. Accessed February 06, 2017. http:// saigan.com/heritage/cci/toda/index.html.

2 Motidana. "The Beauty of Indian Embroidery - Kutchwork!" The Beauty of Indian Embroidery - Kutchwork! January 01, 1970. Accessed February 06, 2017. http://kalaabhushan.blogspot.in/ 2012/11/the-beauty-of-indian-embroidery.html. Jain,4

Phulkari Embroidery

‘Phul’ means ‘flower’ and Kari means ‘craft or work’. Thus, Phulkari Embroidery refers to the

Floral work embroidery. Punjab is renowned for the Phulkari hand embroidery. Phulkari is a folk art of Punjab. Thick clothes are used and the threads of various colours are used depending on the colour of the cloth. The usage of colour ‘red’ is most common. The designs are so stitched on the reverse as to give the effect of tapestry work. The borders are so covered as to make it difficult to distinguish between the cloth and the needlework. The motifs at times resemble those on the Kanthas of Bengal. Phulkari embroidery is often found on Shawls and scarves. The use of

Darn Stitch is in vogue. The main diference between Phulkari and Bagh embroidery is that, in

Phulkari , embroidery is done to enhance the beauty of the clothes. Whereas, in Bagh, the embroidered works covers the entire base of the cloth and the colour of the base cloth is not visible. This art is associated with the ‘JAT’ tribe – the cultivators and nomads. The jats carried their art wherever they went and hence this kind of embroidery is also found in Rajasthan and

Gujarat. 3

Chikan Embroidery

3 "Sameeksha." Sameeksha. Accessed February 06, 2017. http://sameeksha.asia/index.php/ welcome/indian. Jain,5

The Chikan Embroidery of Luknow is an example of rare beauty. Chikan is the name for using white thread in needlework on cloth. The art originated in Dhaka and from there traveled to

Lucknow. The stitch is known as bukhia and also chhaya and jaal. A net like effect is created on the front side with stitches, on the reverse designs are created with fine stitches. Chikan embroidery is a type of Indian embroidery from the city of Lucknow, which was first popularized by Nur Jehan, the wife of Jahangir. In Persian, it literally means ‘cloth covered with needlework’. It is an extremely refined form of needlework that is known for its delicate beauty and pretty look. The history and origins of Chikan embroidery can be traced back to the medieval period, though it is quite hard to find one origin story that everyone agrees on. Some believe that this exquisite form of embroidery dates back to pre-Mughal times and was only given a kind of aesthetic makeover with the increased influence of Persian aesthetics in Mughal times while others believe Nur Jehan commissioned this type of embroidery for the first time.

Whatever the true origins, it is certainly true that Chikan embroidery designs only became popular in the Mughal era, largely thanks to Nur Jehan’s patronage. First, the craftsmen create the designs which are to be embroidered on a piece of paper. These designs are then engraved on to a wood block, which is dipped in faint dyes and printed on the fabric to provide the outline for the Chikan embroidery patterns. The embroidery artisan then sews over the design using intricate embroidery techniques; finally, the fabric is washed to remove all traces of the print, leaving behind the gorgeous and delicate Chikan embroidery. Initially, Chikan embroidery was only done only using white threads on white fabrics and till today a pale color aesthetic is preferred.4

4 "Chikan Embroidery Dresses, Designs and Patterns | Utsav Fashion." Utsav Fashion Blog. December 28, 2016. Accessed February 06, 2017. http://blog.utsavfashion.com/crafts/chikan- embroidery. Jain,6

Chamba Rumal of Himachal

Rumal means handkerchief. The hand embroidery in himachal is famous for its Chamba Rumal.

These hand embroideries are inspired from ‘Pahari Painting’. The fabric used is mostly khaddar or muslin. These have colourful borders and the darning stitch is used on the cloth, the thread being silken. The Chamba Rumal an unique example of the art of the Himachal Pradesh and

Jammu, the artists drawing heavily on the mythologies for their designs. The pictoral handicraft in Chamba Rumal are distinct and are in wide demand all over. They are also used as a gift item.

Rajasthan Handicraft

The folk designs of Rajasthan can be seen in the handicraft works of . The embroidered seats are often made for horse and camel back. The best examples of this art in Rajasthan can be seen in

Jaisalmer where together with stitching their own clothes, the women also make seats for horses Jain,7 and camels, pillow covers, bed-covers, quilts, decorating these with attractive designs and motifs.

Kantha Embroidery of Bengal

The Kantha embroidery of bengal is similar to the hand-embroidery of other places in terms of motifs and the style of stitching. The Sujni Kantha of Bihar, particularly Gaya, Darbhaga and

Madhubani, are also made exclusively by women using old pieces of clothes and threads from the sari borders. The simple Motif designs in Bengal, are drawn from everyday life. 5

Banjara embroidery

Most of the Banjaras of Gujarat, Rajasthan & Andhra pradesh, embroider beautiful artifacts using mirrors. Around the mirrors different motifs are embroidered in traditional Indian stitches.

5 "Art & Culture Archives." ChennaiBest.com. Accessed February 06, 2017. http:// chennaibest.com/art-culture/. Jain,8

Colours used are very bright because of absence of fauna and flora. The ‘Motikaam" or bead work, used in Banjara Embroidery, is like American Indian and Mexican bead work. This embroidery form also makes use of buttons, kowrees, coins etc. to enrich the embroidery.

Kasuti from Karnataka

Kasuti is one of the most exquisite forms of ethnic countered thread embroidery. Starting in

North Karnataka in the 7th century A.D, has now spread all over the state and country.

Traditional Kasuti motifs seem to have been inspired by the objects from daily life. E.g.:- temple towers, temple tank, Tulsi plant holders, Chariots, Birds, Animals etc.

The Kasuti of Karnataka is very much like Austrian, Hungarian and Spanish embroidery. But the motifs and finishing are different.6

6 Ibid Jain,9

Zardozi embroidery

Introduction

Different styles of Indian embroidery have been handed down from generation to generation such as Zardozi, Chikankari, Sujni, Kantha, Kasuti, Toda, mirror work. The passion for embroidery in India has led to great experimentation in the field, with several styles, creating dazzling effects such as the 'stained glass' look, the long cross stitch, rice stitch, textured panels and much more. One can see embroidery on wall hangings, saris, textiles and garments, incorporating unique motifs and patterns. Zardozi is one of the oldest and most beautiful embroidery styles of India. It is used extensively in clothing and home decoration. Painstakingly and delicately done by hand, creations in Zardozi work are timeless, unbounded by the shackles of trends.

History of the craft Zardozi

The magnificent metallic embellishment of India — dates back to ancient times. It finds mention in Vedic literature, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, and all accounts of the Sultanate period.

The country, from very early times, was known for the use of gold embroidery on a variety of objects including furnishings, trappings, parasols, and equestrian ornaments. The more aesthetic and evolved embroideries were used on court costumes and especially on accessories such as Jain,10 shoes. The historical accounts of this craft are shrouded in the usual romantic stories and inaccurate data. But the only certainty is that zarkas — a Persian word meaning zari or gold embroidery — was widely used in all the accounts. History says that from the 13th century, the craftspeople who worked with this medium, setting seed pearls and precious stones with fine gold and silver wire, were known as zardos workers. Done with metal wire and metal pieces or sequins on velvet, satin and heavy silk bases, Zardozi is one of the most famous and elaborate techniques in metal embroidery. The original embroidery of Zardozi was done with pure silver wires coated with real gold, and was known as Kalabatun. Though silver and gold wires have now been replaced with synthetic threads, the art remains the same. The use of metal embroidery in Indian textiles and costumes, especially those used for ritual or ceremonial purposes, demonstrates the importance of gold and silver within the culture. An imperial craft brought to

India by Delhi's first Turko-Afghan sultans in the 12th century, Zardozi became equally popular with the wealthy Hindu, Muslim and European elite down the ages.7

Regions Known for Zardozi Work in India

Hyderabad

Lucknow

Jammu, Kashmir

Kolkata

Varanasi

7 "Zardozi in India." Zardozi in India- Zardozi Embroidery, Zardozi Work, Zardosi Embroidery in India, Indian Zari Embroidery. Accessed February 06, 2017. http://www.culturalindia.net/indian- crafts/zardozi.html. Jain,11

Agra

Delhi

Farrukkabad Raw Material

Metal Wire Metal ingots are melted and pressed through perforated steel sheets, to be converted into wires. They are then hammered to the required thinness. Plain wire is called badla, and when wound round a thread, it is called kasav. Smaller spangles are called sitara, and tiny dots made of badla are called mukaish.

Embellishments

Cowrie, dabka, sequins and sitara The original Zardozi thread was made from an alloy of silver and gold. The wire that came out of the furnace, although containing a lot of silver in it, glittered like gold. This flattened wire was then twisted around silk threads to form the spring like

Zardozi. Zardozi uses dabka (a spring type of thread), kora, katori, tikena, and sitara (sequins) and also glass and plastic beads at times.

Complete process of Zardozi

The Process of Zardozi Embroidery Zardozi is sheer magic of nimble fingers and imaginative designs.

Designing Earlier the designs used to be very Mughal in nature, comprising of floral and leaf patterns derived from that era. With modern influences, the patterns have changed. More and more geometric designs are used but flowers, petals and leaves still find their place. Clients Jain,12 specify patterns and motifs to suit their budget and choice. Nature inspired motifs The design is first traced on a tracing sheet and holes are made along the traced pattern using a needle.8

Tracing Spreading the fabric

Placing the tracing Kerosene and robin blue mixture Rubbing ink for transfer Design traced on the fabric The fabric on which the embroidery is to be done is placed on a flat table and the tracing sheet is placed in position. A solution of kerosene and Robin Blue is made. A wad of cloth is dipped into this solution and wiped against the tracing so that the ink seeps through the holes to trace the design on to the fabric. This is then sent to the embroidery workers.

Setting the Adda/Frame Cloth framed tightly

The fabric to be embroidered is stretched taut over a frame called the adda. This concept has evolved from a knockdown camp bed called the khatia used in rural areas. The adda follows the assembly and tightening principles of the khatia, and gives the cloth a uniform tension. It consists of four wooden spars (sometimes, bamboo is used for the end members) resting on wooden posts. The frame can be made to fit any size of fabric.

The Embroidery Zardozi in progress

A simple needle or a crochet like hook fixed to a wooden stick called the ari are used for the embroidery. The ari greatly enhances the speed of the work, as it enables the artisan to pass the threads both above and below the fabric. The ari has its disadvantages, though. One tug at a loose thread can spell disaster to the entire design as it can unravel in a matter of minutes. The needle and thread method is far more dependable, but is very time and labor consuming, and hence far

8 "Zardozi Embroidery: Traditional Embroidery From Lucknow." Utsavpedia. December 30, 2016. Accessed February 06, 2017. http://www.utsavpedia.com/motifs-embroideries/zardozi- weaving-in-the-shimmers/. Jain,13 more expensive. All kinds of combinations are used to add to the grandeur of Zardozi. A little bit of thread work here or a few sequins or semi precious stones added there, can make the fabric appealing while giving it a unique exclusivity. If the design is smaller, then a smaller metal frame can also be used instead of the wooden planks. This is much more comfortable when the embroidery is to be focused in a particular area of the fabric. The smallest work takes a day to be completed and the most exclusive one can take up to ten days.

Changes in Recent Years

By the end of the Mughal era, the art declined because of its high cost and the lack of precious metals for the purpose of embroidery. It was again revived in the 20th century. Today, like everything else, Zardozi too has its limitations: being sold in the market at a much cheaper cost, made out of copper and brass wires plated with gold. The latest additions are colored Zardozi with a plastic base. Far more pocket friendly, this new Zardozi lasts longer and is lighter to wear.

At times the base fabrics have plastic replacements in place of what was formerly pure gold and the motifs are so far removed from the original, that the product does not resemble what had at one time bedazzled visitors to the royal courts of India. The days of using real gold and silver thread are now history. What one can get, however, is synthetic or ‘tested’ zari embroidery. The richness of gold may no longer grace the work of Zardozi craftsman, but the glitter and glamour endures - hopefully it will for years to come. Zardozi is as tenacious as the wires the craftsmen work with.9

9 "Handicrafts,India,SouthAsia,SouthEastAsia,Bangladesh,Bhutan,Maldives,Nepal,Pakistan,Sri Lanka,Crafts,Handlooms,Textiles,Artisans,Craftspersons." Handicrafts,India,SouthAsia,SouthEastAsia,Bangladesh,Bhutan,Maldives,Nepal,Pakistan,Sri Lanka,Crafts,Handlooms,Textiles,Artisans,Craftspersons. Accessed February 06, 2017. http:// www.craftrevival.org/CraftArtDetails.asp?CountryCode=India&CraftCode=002944. Jain,14

Conclusion

The hand-embroidery in India has kept alive many an art form that would otherwise perhaps have got lost in time. The artistes give expression to the beauty of life all around, creating property on threads, bringing out the many untold tales of love and affaction. Jain,15

Bibliography

"Handicrafts,India,SouthAsia,SouthEastAsia,Bangladesh,Bhutan,Maldives,Nepal,Pakistan,Sri Lanka,Crafts,Handlooms,Textiles,Artisans,Craftspersons." Handicrafts,India,SouthAsia,SouthEastAsia,Bangladesh,Bhutan,Maldives,Nepal,Pakistan,Sri Lanka,Crafts,Handlooms,Textiles,Artisans,Craftspersons. Accessed February 06, 2017. http:// www.craftrevival.org/CraftArtDetails.asp?CountryCode=India&CraftCode=002944.

Zardozi Embroidery: Traditional Embroidery From Lucknow." Utsavpedia. December 30, 2016. Accessed February 06, 2017. http://www.utsavpedia.com/motifs-embroideries/zardozi-weaving- in-the-shimmers/.

Zardozi in India." Zardozi in India- Zardozi Embroidery, Zardozi Work, Zardosi Embroidery in India, Indian Zari Embroidery. Accessed February 06, 2017. http://www.culturalindia.net/indian- crafts/zardozi.html.

Motidana. "The Beauty of Indian Embroidery - Kutchwork!" The Beauty of Indian Embroidery - Kutchwork! January 01, 1970. Accessed February 06, 2017. http://kalaabhushan.blogspot.in/ 2012/11/the-beauty-of-indian-embroidery.html.

Chikan Embroidery Dresses, Designs and Patterns | Utsav Fashion." Utsav Fashion Blog. December 28, 2016. Accessed February 06, 2017. http://blog.utsavfashion.com/crafts/chikan- embroidery.

"Sameeksha." Sameeksha. Accessed February 06, 2017. http://sameeksha.asia/index.php/ welcome/indian

"Indian Heritage - Embroidery - Toda embroidery from Nilgris, Tamilnadu." Indian Heritage - Embroidery - Toda embroidery from Nilgris, Tamilnadu. Accessed February 06, 2017. http:// saigan.com/heritage/cci/toda/index.html.