The Distribution Condition and Clothing Construction Factors of the Working Clothes+ - Reference to the Changwon National Industrial Complex
Journal of Fashion Business Vol. 12, No. 3, pp.116~135(2008)
The Distribution Condition and Clothing Construction Factors of the Working Clothes+ - Reference to the Changwon National Industrial Complex -
Park, Gin-Ah* ·Park,Hye-Won Full-Time Lecturer, Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Changwon National University* Professor, Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Changwon National University
Abstract
To investigate the actual distribution condition and clothing construction factors of the working clothes supplied to the Changwon national industrial complex, 5 major companies in machinery, automotive, industrial engineering, shipbuilding and rolling stock in the industrial complex located in Gyeongsangnam-Do were selected. The questionnaire designed for the research consisted of working clothes distribution policies in manufacturing industry and the actual conditions of the design facts, repair and maintenance of the working clothes, etc. The analysis of the clothing construction factors of the working clothes provided by 5 respondent companies were conducted in parallel. The results derived from the study were as follows: The basic types of working clothes were the blouson jacket and straight pants; safety equipments for manufacture were safety helmets, gloves, snickers, goggles,masks,ear caps, wristlets, leggings, apron, etc. The size-charts adopted by the participant companies were the small-medium-large and cm/inch measurement size systems. To solve wearer’s dissatisfaction with the garment fit, certain clothing construction factors were used, e.g. strap bands and the elastic band on a waist band. The types of fabrics used forthe working clothes were mainly polyester/cotton and polyester/rayon blended ones. Moreover, to provide with more air permeability to wearers, the warp knit material wasusedto construct the lining and the armpit or back bodice slits. Lock, two-thread chain, safety, overedge stitches were applied with flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped, bound andedgefinishingseamstoconstructtheworkingclothesselected.
Key Words : working clothes, safety equipment, distribution condition of the workingclothes, clothing construction factors, stitch and seam types, working clothes materials.
+ This work was supported by 2007 Major Research Institute Grant funded by Changwon National University Corresponding author; Park, Gin-Ah, Tel.+82-55-213-3496, Fax.+82-55-213-3490 E-mail: [email protected]
116 Park, Gin-Ah · Park, Hye-Won / The Distribution Condition and Clothing Construction Factors of the Working Clothes
I. Introduction conditions, i.e. physical, chemical, biological, mechanical and operational conditions. One of As a key member of the world, Korea aims to these, the operational condition included the fully arrive in the 21st century with the goal of workers' knowledge and attitude toward their becoming one of the world's leading countries tasks, working clothes, working hours, and etc. in pursuit of unlimited global business However, as each industry’s work features vary opportunities. In view of that, Korea has the task in chemical and physical aspects, it might not to increase the nation's competitiveness in the be possible to provide with the literally perfect world through the specialization of local work environments to the employees. Therefore, industries by encouraging the regional attributes the working clothes and the auxiliary safety of distinctiveness. Gyeongsangnam-do is one of accessories that industrial workers wear in many the exceptional provinces in the nation which hours a day can be the solution to improve the has played a key role of Korea’s automotive, industrial work conditions. In this sense, the machinery, aerospace, and shipbuilding industries examination of the design features, clothing equipped with well-developed industry based construction details, supply and wearing conditions infrastructure. As of December 2006, the total of the industrial working clothes would help to number of companies in Gyeongsangnam-Do have an understanding of the actual working province was 11,393, which included 1,635 clothes manufacturing condition for the relevant metalworking firms and 2,513 machinery industriesandthustosetupthepractical companies. Most of all, the numbers of employees guidelines to develop the improved working in the machinery industry were up to 130,000. clothes. Considering this, it would not be too exaggerating To construct the working clothes, Korean to say that Gyeongsangnam-Do has a crucial Industrial Standards (refer to KS K 7803) status in machinery, electronics, cars, prescribes the regulations for working clothes. It shipbuilding industries which occupied almost imposes certain factors for the working clothes: 1) 20% of the whole nation’s industry scale . such as properties of fabrics, lining and In the Changwon national industrial complex interlining, sewing yarns and various trimmings located in Gyeongsangnam-Do, 71,649 people like buttons, hooks and eyes, fastenings in were employed (male - 62,304 and female - material terms; stitches, seams, seam 9,345 reported as of Aug. 2003) and in addition, allowances, ironing in terms of the clothing for the employees are the inhabitants who live in construction. However, the regulations of the adjacent regions to their works, the condition of clothing construction factors are not specified employees’ health may be directly related not enough to construct the various working clothes. only to the industrial productivity but also to the The relevant researches on the working 2) quality of life. Kim et al. highlighted the clothes and the auxiliary safety accessories, e.g. importance of the systematic group health safety helmet, protection goggles, gas masks, servicebecausetheworkers’healthstatusis protection wears, etc. have tried to improve directlyrelatedtothesocialandindustrial industrial working environment4) by improving the 3) productivity. Park also defined that the working wearing environments of the workers. The environments consisted of 5 major environmental working clothes researches can be divided into
117 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.12, No.3 two which are firstly, on the actual condition of II. Research Methodology and the preference to the work clothes and secondly on the development of specified 1. Objectives industrial working clothes. The researches on the The study was designed: general conditions of or the preference to the (1) to investigate the actual distribution various working clothes in textiles5), automotive6), condition of working clothes supplied to 5 mechanical7) industries, burning waste working subject companies in the Changwon national environment8) and for the railroad maintenance9) industrial complex; and and the building construction workers10) have (2)toanalyzetheclothingconstructionfactors been carried out. The studies on the development of the working clothes collected from 5 subject of the working clothes for various industries companies. have been also conducted and the examples are the clean room garment for the semiconductor 2. Subjects and the Investigation Period industry11)12),minedetectivegear13),coveralls14), etc. However, it is hard to find out the research 5 major companies were selected for the presenting the specified clothing construction research according to the company sizes in the factors in detail. Furthermore, regarding the Changwon national industrial complex located in overseas protective equipments, the relevant Gyeongsangnam-Do. As they were the leading regulations set by the OSHA(Occupational Safety companies in the relevant industries, it was 15) & Health Administration) , ANSI(American National assumed that the distribution condition of 16) Standards Institute) and NIOSH(the National working clothes of the participant companies 17) Institute for Occupational Safety and Health) was better than the others. Subject companies can be referred to. were in the industries of machinery, automotive, Since the clothing construction factors of the industrial engineering, shipbuilding and rolling working clothes have been rarely discovered, stock respectively (refer to
) and the this study aimed to investigate the actual investigation was performed from Aug. to Sep. distribution condition of the working clothes 2007. 5 respondents were in charge of the supplied to the Changwon national industrial working clothes supply and maintenance, who complex; and to analyze their clothing construction have been employed in the same industry for 10 factors in terms of clothing design details, sizing to 18 years. As described in
the systems, materials and equipments utilized. The respondents were all managerial staff, i.e. 3 results derived from the study would improve the posted to the general affairs department and working clothes development procedures and each to manufacture and safety departments. also help both the relevant enterprises and government imply the working clothes 3. Actual Distribution Condition of the manufacturing guidelines to fulfill the industrial Working Clothes workers' demand for the working clothes which means better working environments. To find out the actual distribution condition of the working clothes, a questionnaire was designed by referring to the relevant researches18)19) and
118 Park, Gin-Ah · Park, Hye-Won / The Distribution Condition and Clothing Construction Factors of the Working Clothes
General Characteristics of Subject Companies
Company Type of Industry Period of Employment of Department Placed Respondent (years) A Machinery 18 Manufacture B Automotive 15 General Affairs C Industrial Engineering 11 General Affairs D Shipbuilding 10 General Affairs E Rolling Stock 17 Safety the preliminary survey on the types and details III. Results and Discussions of the working clothes and safety equipments of a machinery company carried out during July, 1. The Actual Distribution Condition of the 2007.Thequestionnaireconsistedoftheactual Working Clothes distribution condition inquiries of the subject 1) General Distribution Facts of the Working companies working clothes: (1) general facts of Clothes the subject companies working clothes under the investigation: policies of working clothes diversification
shows that the working clothes by working environment characteristics and seasons, selected for the research have not been the types of working clothes and safety equipments, differentiated by the types of work procedures, working clothes distribution frequency; (2) design while the working environmental characteristics facts: colors and enterprise image represented in relatedtotheworkpostsarevarious(e.g.the the working clothes; and (3) inquiries related to departments of management, quality assurance, sizing system adopted and the repair and cutting,grinding,assembly,welding,transportation, maintenance of the working clothes. etc). It is because that employees' wearing the exactly same types of working clothes within a 4. Investigation of the Clothing Construction company can enhance the feeling of conformity Factors of the Working Clothes with other colleague workers. There was a response from company E to have different The analysis of the clothing construction types of the working clothes only for the special factors of the working clothes collected from 5 cases of employees' visiting the public offices, subject companies has been conducted in terms sales occasions and so on. of: (1) working clothes garment details, which However, the working clothes are diversified were divided into the parts of the collar, front for seasons. 2 respondents answered to have 3 bodice panel, sleeves, side panel, back bodice types of working clothes seasonally diversified panel, linings for an upper garment and the such as ‘Spring-Fall’, ‘Summer’ and ‘Winter’ parts of waist, front and back panels, pockets type garments while the rests of the andhemforalowergarment;and(2)the respondents had 2 seasonally diversified working clothing construction factors e.g. fabrics, linings, clothes, i.e. ‘Spring-Summer-Fall’ and ‘Winter’ trimmings, stitches, seams and equipments utilized types. accordingtothegarmentdetailsidentified. All the respondents (A to E, 100%) answered
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General Distribution Facts of the Working Clothes
Distribution Policy Company - Frequency(%) Total Frequency(%) Diversification of Partially Diversified: Working Clothes E - 1(20.0) 5(100.0) According to Working Not Diversified: Environments A, B, C, D - 4(80.0) 3 Seasonally Diversified (Spring- Fall, Summer & Winter): Diversification of A, B - 2(40.0) Working Clothes 5(100.0) AccordingtoSeasons 2 Seasonally Diversified (Spring-Summer-Fall & Winter): C, D, E - 2(40.0) Purchase of Working Distributed Free on Any Occasion: Clothes A,B,C,D,E-5(100.0) 5(100.0) Distributed Free on Any Occasion: A, D, E - 3(60.0) Purchase of Safety Equipments Distributed Free and Personal Purchase Available 5(100.0) When Damage Occurred by Own Inattention: B, C - 2(40.0) 1/yr: Distribution Frequency of A, B, C, E - 4(80.0) the Basic Working 5(100.0) Clothes 2/yr: D-1(20.0) Distribution Frequency of the Working Clothes : 1/yr: summer T-shirt & Winter A,B,C,D,E-5(100.0) 5(100.0) Garment
Blouson Jacket: Straight Pants Casual: AdoptedbyA,B,C,D,E Adopted by A, B, C, D, E Straight Pants Formal: Companies Companies Adopted by E Company Basic Styles of Working Clothes Upper and Lower Garments - Blouson Jacket and Straight Pants 2 Types(Casual and Tailored) to a question on the distribution frequency of distributed this type of working clothes once a 'Summer T-shirts' and ‘Winter’ garments as year. once a year. As to the ‘Spring-Summer-Fall’ Following
,
and
show the types of working clothes and safety a year while the other A, B, C, E companies equipments in detail. The basic garment styles
120 Park, Gin-Ah · Park, Hye-Won / The Distribution Condition and Clothing Construction Factors of the Working Clothes
are the blouson type jacket and the straight The safety equipments distributed by the pants for the upper and lower working clothes respondent companies were as like the safety separately as illustrated in
, which vest, wristlets, leggings, apron, waist belt buckle were adopted by all the respondent companies. cover, non-woven disposable overalls, clean room In particular, the pants are differentiated into 2 garment, safety helmet, protection goggles, gas types: casual and tailored ones in the occasions masks, ear caps, safety gloves, safety snickers and of working outside and of formal meeting. etc. Among the respondent companies in various Nevertheless the casual type straight pants were industries, company B in automotive got various taken for most of working time. types of the safety equipments required for the complicated procedures.
Types of Working Clothes and Garment Items of the Subject Companies Type of Working S-F S-F Summer Summer Winter Winter Thermal Thermal Clothes Upper Lower Upper Lower Upper Lower Upper Lower Garments Garment Garment Garment Garment Garment Garment Garment Garment Item ABCE (with collar) D T-shirt (with collar &round neck - 2 types) Blouson Jacket ABCDE B ABCDE Parka ACE Pants ABCDE ABE ACDE ABCE Skirt Overall ※ Company B did not distribute ‘Winter’ type lower garment in particular, whereas distributed thermal padding pants to workers in the case of working outside.
Types of the Safety Equipments of the Subject Companies
Total No. of Type of Equipment Companies Response Safety Vest B, E 2 Wristlets B 1 Leggings B 1 Apron A,B,C,D,E 5 Waist Belt Buckle Cover B 1 Non-woven Disposable A Overalls B, C, D, E– Occasionally Distributed 5 Clean Room Garment C 1 Safety Helmet A, B, C, D, E 5 GasMask A,B,C,D,E 5 Eye Protection Goggles A, B, C, D, E 5 EarCaps A,B,C,D,E 5 Safety Gloves A, B, C, D, E 5 Safety Snickers A, B(In & Out Door Type Distribution), C, D, E 5
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2) Design Facts of the Working Clothes gray colors. Some showed the basic and point colorsmatchesaswell,e.g.‘beige(basic)and The investigation presented the design facts of blue purple(point)’ and ‘gray(basic) and navy the working clothes selected in terms of colors blue(point)’ color matches presented from the and color co-ordination implied by working working garments of respondent B and clothes garment types (refer to
). ‘beige-khaki’ coordination for the ones of Furthermore, the implication of the enterprise respondent D. image shown in the working clothes were The working clothes can help employees have analyzed by exploring the enterprise image conformity at work and make themselves to be colors and symbols applied to the selected proud of their work companies by notifying the working clothes garment details. enterprise images in their working clothes. The As seen in
, the responding details of the working clothes have been companies did not adopt various colors for their explored and the parts of the working clothes working clothes. Through all the types of representing the enterprise image and symbol working garments of the participate companies, colors were: the main and sub colors of the the color groups implied are limited within 2 to garment fabrics; company title written on the 3 color co-ordinations, i.e. purple, beige and zipper fastener and buttons/studs; and the company
ColorsImpliedtotheWorkingClothes
Working Summer Clothes S-F S-F Summer Summer Winter Winter Thermal Thermal T-shirt Type Upper Lower Upper Lower Upper Lower Upper Lower Short Color Garment Garment Garment Garment Garment Garment Garment Garment Sleeve Yellow (Orange Incl.) Red (Pink Incl.) Blue A(Sky Bl) (Sky Blue, EEB(Gra+Nvy) Indigo Incl.) D Green (Yellow Gr. Incl.) Purple B(Bg+Pl) B(Bg+Pl) B(Bg+Pl) Bwon B(Bg+Pl) B B(Bg+Pl) B B(Bg+Pl) Beige B (Light Khaki C C C C C C(Bg+Kh) C(Bg+Kh) Incl.) D(Bg+Kh) D(Bg+Kh) D(Bg+Kh) D(Bg+Kh) E(Kh) A A A A A Gray E A A B(Gra+Nvy) E E E E E White Black Total No. of Color Used 32323233 3
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logos embroidered on the chest. Implementing 3) Size System and Maintenance of the the enterprise image colors into the working Working Clothes clothes is more frequently shown in zipper The results derived from the inquiries into the fasteners (5 responses, 100%), buttons or studs sizing system of the subject companies were in (5 responses, 100%) than as in the garment variety like that A, C, E companies adopted the fabric (1 response, 20%) or lining. In addition, small-medium-large size system for the upper implication of the enterprise image symbols in working garments and C company for lower garments is relatively rare, except using the working garments. Whereas B and D companies zipper tab pull cases of respondents B and D’s adopted the cm/inch measurement size code working garments (refer to
). All the system for the upper working garments and the respondents had their enterprise logo embroidery companies of A, B, D and E for lower working on the chest part of the working jackets. To see garments. This kinds of size chart suit the mass these only limited occasions of implementing the production system, which can easily cause the business image on the working clothes, it must wearer’s dissatisfaction with the garment fit. mean abundant opportunities to make use of the However, certain clothing construction factors, enterprise image and symbol representing e.g. strap bands to control the measurements garment details to improve the productivity and and the elastic band on the waist can solve the employee’s satisfaction with their work. fit problems as discussed later (refer to
and
).
Working Clothes Details Implying the Enterprise Image Color and Symbol
Garment Total No. of Total No. of Construction Enterprise Image Color Enterprise Symbol Factors Response Response Garment Fabrics B 1 - - Garment Linings - - - - ZipperFastener A,B,C,D,E 5 B,D 2 Buttons/Studs A, B, C, D, E 5 - - Reflective Material Tape With - --- Hologram Enterprise Logo A, B, C, D, E 5 A, B, C, D, E 5 Embroidery Others - - - -
Size Systems Adopted to the Working Clothes
Type of Working Clothes Size System Upper Garment Lower Garment S-M-LSizeSystem A,C,E C cm/inchMeasurementSizeSystem B,D A,B,D,E
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To distribute the working clothes to their (M)-41%, Large(L)-27% and over XLarge(XL) employees, to set an order for number and size -18%; C company size proportion: S-7%, proportions of working clothes is fairly important, M-15%, L-46%, XL-32%; E company: S-5%, which links to the employees’garment M-20%, L-60%, XL-15%; B company: 5% for satisfaction. For this, the respondent companies under 95, 100-45%, 105-40%, 10% for over have established the data base of their 110; D company: 95-5%, 100-40%, 105-45%, employees measurements (some in detail and 110-10%. Lower garment size code systems are some roughly).
and
show divided into two, i.e. S-M-L and inch measurement the size proportions for upper and lower working systems. Lower garment size proportions of C garments. Company A and B established the company are: under Small(S) - 7%, Medium(M) garment measurement data base for employees - 15%, Large(L) - 46% and over XLarge(XL) - (especially shoe measurement D/B established 32%; for A company: under 30-10%, 32-33%, for B company). For upper garment, A company 34-45%, over 36-12%; B company: under 30- has the size proportion: under Small(S)-14%, Medium 5%, 32-30%, 34-50%, over 36-15%; D company:
Size Proportions of the Working Clothes Upper Garment (%)
Size Code ~ ~ Subject S M L XL 95 100 105 110 Total Company ~ ~
A 14412718 100 B 5 45 40 10 100 C 7 15 46 32 100 D 5 40 45 10 100 E 5 20 60 15 100 ※ Company A established the employees’ garment size D/B and Company B established the employees’ garment & shoe size D/B.
Size Proportions of the Working Clothes Lower Garment (%)
Size Code ~ ~ Subject S M L XL 30 32 34 36 Total Company ~ ~ A 10334512100 B 5 30 50 15 100 C 7 15 46 32 100 D 5 40 45 10 100 E 30 50 15 5 100 ※ Company A established the employees’ garment size D/B and Company B established the employees’ garment and shoe size D/B.
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under 30-5%, 32-40%, 34-45%, over 36-10%; Standardization Organization, Federal Standards and under 30-30%, 32-50%, 34-15%, over (US) define the types of stitches and seams for 36-5% for E company. clothing construction, i.e. standards of stitches It is a very common mistake to give and seams, KS K 0029, KS K 0030, ISO 4915, unnecessary measurement allowances for apparel FS (US). The major stitch classes found out patternmaking to reduce the size problem, for through the analysis of the working clothes of 5 this soon causes the fit problem and thus the respondent companies were three such as 300, repair of the garments as well. Next,
400 and 500. The stitch types of them were indicates that the garment parts requiring 301: lockstitch, 401: two-thread chain stitch, frequent size repair are pants length and waist 504: overedge stitch and 516: safety stitch (refer girth (both for the lower garment). Washing to
). working clothes can be basically done by the Seam types applied to the working clothes companies, however the repair and washing of construction were 14 that are pointed out in the working clothes was usually performed by
. They are Flat Seam (FlS); Lap individual wearers. Felled Seam(LFS); French Seam(FS): French Seam-1(FS-1), French Seam-2(FS-2); Superimposed 2. Clothing Construction Factors of the Seam(SS): Superimposed Seam-1, Superimposed Working Clothes Seam-3 (SS-1 and SS-3); Lapped Seam: Lapped Seam a(LSa), Lapped Seam b(LSb), 1) Stitch and Seam Types of the Working Clothes Lapped Seam q(LSq), Lapped Seam bm(LSbm); 5 Respondent companies working clothes BoundSeam-2(BS-2);EdgeFinishingSeam: jackets and pants were collected and analyzed Edge Finishing a(EFa), Edge Finishing b(EFb) in to have an in depth understanding of the detail. working clothes clothing construction factors. The Korean Industrial Standards, International
Repair and Maintenance of the Working Clothes
Descript. Repair and Maintenance Details Frequency (%) Upper Garment Length: N/A 0 (0.0) Upper Garment Girth: N/A 0 (0.0) Repair Part Sleeve Length: N/A 0 (0.0) LowerGarmentLength:A,B,C,D,E 5(100.0) Lower Garment Waist Girth: C, D 2 (40.0) Repair By Company: N/A 0 (0.0) Repair Method Repair By Person: A, B, C, D, E 5 (100.0) Repair By Both Company and Person: N/A 0 (0.0) Washing By Company: N/A 0 (0.0) Washing Method Washing By Person: C 1 (20.0) Washing By Both Company and Person: A, B, D, E 4 (80.0)
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StitchandSeamTypesAppliedtotheWorkingClothes No Seam Seam Stitch Stitch Stitch . Name Diagram Type Name Diagram Flat Seam 1 301 Lock Stitch (FlS) LapFelledSeam 2 301 Lock Stitch (LFS)
LapFelledSeam Two-thread Chain 3 401 Stitch (LFS)
French Seam-1 4 (FS-1)
French Seam-2 5 (FS-2) Superimposed Seam-1 6 (SS-1) Superimposed 7 Seam-3 (SS-3) Lapped Seam a 8 (LSa) 301 Lock Stitch
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2) Garment Details of the Working Clothes 3-velcro fastened, 2 button fastened and 2 press stud fastened (visible/invisible both); jacket Most of all, the clothing construction factors front panel: whole bodice pattern or yoke & of the working clothes jacket were analyzed in lower section divided patterns(refer to
). working clothes jacket was the blouson Pockets constructed within the jacket were in mentioned afore, which has been divided into 5 various types. The main pockets on the parts, i.e. collar, front panel, sleeves, back abdominal region: single or double welt bound panel and various types of pockets. In particular, pockets inserted, inserted pockets, styled patch many pockets were constructed to provide with pockets were presented. Secondly, types of functional performance to keep tools and pockets on chest like a double welt bound personal things into the working garments. Pants pocket, an inserted pocket zip fastened (left were the basic lower garment type of the side), a patch pocket with flap button- working clothes divided into 4 major parts, i.e. buttonhole fastened (both side), a single welt waist band, front and back panels and pockets. bound pocket inserted with flap stud fastened The results throughout the jacket analysis were (both side) and a patch pocket with flap velcro for the collar: shirt collar with band stand fastened (both side) were shown. As the separated, one-piece shirt collar. As to the front respondents answered that employees wanted fly opening, zipper fly was put up with placket more convenience to keep things during work
Clothing Construction Factors of Working Clothes Jacket - Collar & Front Panel
Garment No. of Stitch Seam Type Parts Type of Garment Detail Stitch Type Used /inch Used 1/2-Row Top Stitch Shirt Collar (Lock Stitch) 9~10 FS-1/FS-2 1-Row Top Stitch Collar Collar Stand (Lock Stitch) 9~10 LSb 1-Row Top Stitch One Piece Shirt Collar (Lock Stitch) 8~10 FS-1 2-Row Top Stitch Zipper Fly (Lock Stitch) 8~10 FS-1/FS-2 Zig-zag Stitch
with a tight look at the same time, the inner working pants were all constructed with the pockets were preferred to. There were also lots straight waist band and one of 5 subject of types about inner pockets constructed for the companies had the elastic band on the side jacket such as a single welt bound pocket panels of the waist band. Number of loop belt inserted with the button and rouleau fastened, a carriers was 7 to 8. The front fly of working double welt bound pocket inserted zipper clothes pants was the type of zipper fly with fastened and a mobile phone keeping pocket hook and eye or button fastened. Front pockets with a strap velcro fastened. Besides, a of the pants were inserted pockets or patch pen-keeping pocket was one of key garment pockets with flaps button-buttonhole fastened details as well: 2 or 3 pen-keeping patch on (both side). The pants had 2-pleated front side seam and 2 pen-keeping patch inside panels and 2-darts on the hip section. The pocket types were shown. There were 2 types pants had hip pockets: single welt bound of armhole constructions, i.e. the standard inserted pockets, double welt bound inserted armhole and the air vent slit armpit constructed pockets button-buttonhole fastened, patch using 100% polyester net lining as can be seen pockets with flaps button-buttonhole fastened in the sports wear. Three types of working (both side placed). 2.5/3.0/4.0cm seam clothes sleeves were found out: a traditional one allowances were given to the pants hem line piece sleeve, a 2-piece sleeve for color (the seam allowance required at minimum for coordination and a 3-piece sleeve to construct the working clothes pants' hem lines was the air vent armpit (refer to
). 2.5cm). The jacket back panel was completed with whole bodice panel with 2 pleats on a waist line 3) Materials and Equipments Used for the which can give more stretch to movement; yoke, Working Clothes reflective tape and lower section divided back The development of the working clothes panel with 2 pleats on a waist line; yoke, requires many factors, such as the functional reflective tape and lower section divided back performance impacting on the working environment panel with 2 slits down to give more air features, the wearer’s aesthetic preferences and permeability function and with 2 pleats on a the image adopted by the enterprise. To fulfill all waist line. The velcro/button-buttonhole/press the requirements, the clothing manufacturing stud fastened straps on the side seams of the technologies like functional fabrics, linings, waist band can shorten or lengthen the waist interlinings (fusible), sewing machines and relevant measurement. Working clothes jackets had equipments are necessary.
and different linings parts constructed with the full
specify these manufacturing factors woven pattern or half net pattern as well as in detail. without linings (details represented in
). clothes were mainly polyester/cotton (65%/35%) The garment details of the working clothes and polyester/rayon (65%/35%) blended fabrics pants were divided into 4 major parts, i.e. waist and to provide with more air permeability to band, front and back panels and pockets. The wearers, warp knitted linings (polyester 100%) results were as follows: 5 respondent companies were used (refer to
). The required
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Clothing Construction Factors of Working Clothes Jacket - Pockets & Sleeves Garment No. of Stitch Seam Type Parts Type of Garment Detail Stitch Type Used /inch Used 1/2-Row Top Stitch Single/Double Welt Bound Pocket (Lock Stitch) 8~10 SS-1/SS-3/ Inserted Zig-zag Stitch FS-2/LS Waist 2-Row Top Stitch Pocket Inserted Pocket (Lock Stitch) 9LSq Zig-zag Stitch 2-Row Top Stitch Styled Patch Pocket (Lock Stitch) 9LSq Zig-zag Stitch Without Pocket In Chest Area - - - Double Welt Bound Pocket Inserted Zip Fastened(Left) Lock Stitch 9 SS-1 Patch Pocket Lock Stitch 9 LSb With Flap Button-Buttonhole Fastened Lock Stitch (Both Side) Zig-zag Stitch 9LSb Chest Pocket 2-Row Top Stitch Single Welt Bound Pocket Inserted (Lock Stitch) 9SS-1 With Flap Stud Fastened (Both Side) Lock Stitch 10 FS-1 Patch Pocket Lock Stitch 8 LSb With Flap Velcro Fastened (Both Side) Lock Stitch 8 FS-1 Without Inner Pocket - - - Single Welt Bound Pocket Inserted With Button & Rouleau Fastened Lock Stitch 10 SS-1 Inner Pocket Double Welt Bound Pocket Inserted Zipper Fastened Lock Stitch 9 SS-1 Cell-Phone Pocket WithStrapVelcroFastened Lock Stitch 10 LSb 1-Row Top Stitch 2/3-Pen Patch (Lock Stitch) 9LSb On Side Seam Zig-zag Stitch Pen Pocket 1-Row Top Stitch 2-Pen Patch (Lock Stitch) 9LSb Inside Zig-zag Stitch Standard Armhole 1/2-Row Top Stitch 8~10 LFS/LSbm Armhole (Lock Stitch) Net Material Using Armpit Construction Lock Stitch 10 EFb 1/2-Row Top Stitch 1 Piece Sleeve (Lock Stitch) 9~10 LFS/LSbm 2 Piece Sleeve 1/2-Row Top Stitch 9~10 LFS/LSbm Sleeve (Lock Stitch) 2-Row Top Stitch 3 Piece Sleeve (Lock Stitch) 10 LFS Zig-zag Stitch Folded On Wrist Line With Lock Stitch Cuff Velcro/Button-Buttonhole/Stud 1/2-Row Top Stitch 9~10 FS-1/BS-2 Fastened (Lock Stitch)
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trimmings for the working clothes were the studs, hooks and eyes, velcro, tapes, fusible interlinings, zip fasteners, buttons, press embroidered appliques and etc.
Clothing Construction Factors of Working Clothes Jacket - Back Panel, Major Seam Lines and Linings No. of Seam Garment Type of Garment Detail Stitch Type Used Stitch Type Parts /inch Used Lock Stitch 9~10 SS-3 Whole Bodice with 2 Pleats on Waist Line 1/2-Row Top Stitch (Lock Stitch) 9~10 LFS/SS-3 Back Yoke, Reflective Tape(2cm Width) & Lower 2-Row Top Stitch Panel (Lock Stitch/Two-thread 10 LFS/LSq Section Divided with 2 Pleats on Waist L. Chain Stitch) Yoke, Reflective Tape(2cm Width) & Lower Lock Stitch Section Divided with 2 Slits Down and 2 2-Row Top Stitch 11 LFS/SS-3 Pleats on Waist L. (Lock Stitch) Folded on Waist Line with Lock Stitch Waist Velcro/Button-Buttonhole/Stud Fastened 2-Row Top Stitch 8~9 BS-2 Band Straps (Lock Stitch) Lock Stitch 1/2-Row Top Stitch 8~10 LSq (Lock Stitch) Shoulder On Shoulder Line Seam 2-Row Top Stitch (Lock Stitch/Two-thread 8~10 LFS/LSbm Chain Stitch) Lock Stitch Side 2-Row Top Stitch 9~10 SS-3/LFS/ Seam On Side Seam Line (Lock Stitch/Two-thread LSq Chain Stitch) N/A - - - Linings Full Woven Lining Lock Stitch 9~10 FlS Half Net Lining Lock Stitch 10 BS-2
Clothing Construction Factors of Working Clothes Pants
Garment No. of Stitch Seam Type Parts Type of Garment Detail Stitch Type Used /inch Used Lock Stitch Waist Band Straight Waist Band 1/2-Row Top Stitch 8~10 BS-2 with the Elastic Band (Lock Stitch)
Loop Belt No. of Loops : 7~8 Lock Stitch 9~11 LSb Carriers Zig-zag Stitch Zipper Fly with Lock Stitch 8~11 LS Front Fly Hook&Eye/Button/Hook&Eye with Button Button Sewing Stitch - - Fastened
2-Row Top Stitch FS-1/FS-2 Inserted Pocket (Lock Stitch) 9~11 Zig-zag Stitch /LSb Front Pocket Lock Stitch Patch Pocket with Flap 1-Row Top Stitch Button-Buttonhole Fastened 10 LSb (Both Side) (Lock Stitch) Zig-zag Stitch
130 Park, Gin-Ah · Park, Hye-Won / The Distribution Condition and Clothing Construction Factors of the Working Clothes
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Garment Type of Garment Detail Stitch Type Used No. of Stitch Seam Type Parts /inch Used Lock Stitch 2-Row Top Stitch Front Panel 2-Pleated 8~9 LFS/SS-3/FlS (Lock Stitch) Zig-zag Stitch Lock Stitch 2-Row Top Stitch (Lock Side Seam On Side Seam Line 8~11 LSbm/LFS Stitch/Two-thread Chain Stitch) Zig-zag Stitch Lock Stitch 2-Row Top Stitch (Lock 1-Dart 9~11 LSbm/LFS Stitch/Two-thread /LSq Hip Section Chain Stitch) Zig-zag Stitch 2-Dart Lock Stitch 9~11 FlS Lock Stitch & Single Welt Bound Inserted Pocket 10~11 LS Zig-zag Stitch Double Welt Bound Inserted Pocket with Lock Stitch & 10~11 LS Button-Buttonhole Fastened Zig-zag Stitch Hip Pocket Lock Stitch/ 2-Row Top Stitch Patch Pocket 9LSb (Lock Stitch) Zig-zag Stitch With Flap Button-Buttonhole Fastened Lock Stitch 9LSq/LSb (Both Side) Zig-zag Stitch Lock Stitch/ Hem Line 2.5/3.0/4.0cm Seam Allowances Lock Stitch & 10~12 EFa/EFb Overedge Stitch The Others Waist Belt Buckle Cover Velcro Fastened Lock Stitch 10 FS-1
Fabrics Used for the Working Clothes
Working Clothes Type SF SF Summer Summer Winter Winter Winter Padding Summer Jacket Pants Jacket Pants Jacket Pants Parka Pants T-shirt Fabric Type
Polyester/Cotton ABDE ABDE AE ABDE ADE A(Denim) ABE A (65%/35%) CE
Polyester/Rayon CC B B C C C (65%/35%) Polyester100% (Performance BCDE Material: CoolonTM ) ※ Company B did not distribute ‘Winter’ type lower garment in particular, whereas distributed thermal padding pants to its employees in the occasion of the outside work.
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Main Fabrics and Trimmings Used for the Working Clothes
Material Material Details Stitch Type Equipments Type Type Utilized
IV. Conclusion The results derived from the study on the actual distribution condition of the working With the aims to investigate the actual clotheswereasfollows: distribution condition of working clothes and to At the beginning of the research, it has been analyze the clothing construction factors of the hypothesized that the garment types of the working clothes supplied to 5 major heavy working clothes would have been differentiated equipment product manufacturing companies in from industry to industry or work process to the Changwon national industrial complex, a process. However, throughout the survey on the questionnaire survey was conducted for the participant companies, it was revealed that the research and the clothing construction factors of same garment styles of the working clothes the working clothes collected from the using the same types of materials were worn by participant companies have been analyzed in the employees within a company and in various parallel. industries. Although the participant companies
132 Park, Gin-Ah · Park, Hye-Won / The Distribution Condition and Clothing Construction Factors of the Working Clothes
manufacturedthesametypeofproducts,yet dissatisfaction with the garment fit, certain this result was a notable exception. If wearing clothing construction factors were used, e.g. thesameworkclothescanachievethe strap bands and the elastic band on the waist uniformity at work, then using the safety kit to control the girths. well-developed can improve the functional Regarding the garment details of the working performance at differentiated work places. The clothes, the blouson jackets collected from the basic garment types of working clothes subject companies have been analyzed into 5 investigated were the blouson jacket and the parts, i.e. collar, front panel, sleeves, back straight pants and the differentiated safety panel and various types of pockets. In particular, equipments were required by differed work the back bodice panel of the working jacket fields. Most of the work processes demanded included 15~20cm down slits constructed using the safety helmet, gloves and snickers; the net material to provide with the appropriate protection goggles, gas masks, ear caps, air permeability within the clothing inner climate wristlets, leggings, aprons were required for during the operation. Moreover, to strengthen the cutting, welding, grinding, inspection and quality air permeability function of the working jacket assurance processes; and the disposable overall the underarm part i.e. the under sleeve and side type of working clothes was distributed for the bodice panel of the working jacket were painting procedure (especially, various types of constructed by using the net material. Many covers were used in automobiles). types of pockets were constructed to provide The analysis of the working clothes design with functional performance to keep tools and facts showed the limited cases of implementing personal things into the working garments. the enterprise image and symbol on the working According to respondents, workers were told to clothes (e.g. the main and sub colors of the prefer to the inner pockets for keeping mobile garment fabrics; company title written on the phone constructed inside the working jackets. zipper fastener, buttons, or studs; and the Pants were the basic garment type of the company logo embroidered on the chest). workingclotheslowergarmentdividedinto4 Therefore, more opportunities to apply the major parts, i.e. waist band, front and back enterprise image and symbol to garment details panels and pockets. There were also lots of can be explored and these would improve the specs about inner pockets for the jacket. industrial productivity and employees' feeling a The working clothes fabrics were mainly connection to their work. Enterprise image colors polyester/cotton (65%/35%) and polyester/ rayon and symbols can be directly implied to the (65%/35%) blended fabrics and to provide with textile designs of garment fabrics and linings, more air permeability to wearers, warp knitted reflective material tape hologram apart from the linings (polyester 100%) were used. The required zipper fastener, buttons or studs already used. trimmings to construct working clothes were The size systems adopted by the participant fusible interlinings, zip fastener, buttons, press companies were the 'small-medium-large' and studs, hooks and eyes, velcro, tapes, 'cm/inch measurement' size code systems that embroidery, etc. The major stitch types found suit the mass production but not the individual out through the analysis of the working clothes expectation level of fit. To solve wearer’s of 5 respondent companies were lockstitch
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(301), two-thread chain stitch (401), overedge 5)Lee,O.H.․ Hong,B.S.(1997),"Female stitch (504) and safety stitch (516). Seam types Workers’ Uniform Preference of the Fiber applied to the working clothes construction were Firms", Journal of the Korean Home summarized into 7 categories i.e. flat, lap felled, Economics Association, 35(4), pp.185-198. French, superimposed, lapped, bound, edge 6) Bae, H. S. (2001), "Status quo Analysis on finishing seams. the Clothing Practice of Atomaker’s The development of the working clothes Uniform", Journal of the Korean Home requires in-depth understanding of many Economics Association, 39(7), pp.115-124. clothing construction factors and in this sense 7) Kim, H. R.․ Suh, M. A. (2002), "A Research the research would provide with practical of Workers’ Uniform in the Mechanical guidelines to evaluate the working clothes Industry", The Research Journal of the construction procedures to fulfill the industrial Costume Culture, 10(6), pp.718-734. workers' demand for the improved work 8) Park, S. J.․․ Shin, J. S. Chung, M. H. environment. The results derived from the study (2003), "The Analysis of Actual State of andfurtherstudiesextendedtoothervarious Working Environment and Working Uniforms industries can contribute to establish clothing for Burning Waste Workers", Journal of the construction data base to develop appropriate Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, working clothes considering the working 27(8), pp.992-1003. environments. 9)Choi,J.W.․․ Kim,S.Y. Lee,J.Y.,op.cit. pp.1165-1174. 10)Kim,S.S.․ Kim,H.E.(2006),"AResearch References Study on Construction Field Worker’s Working Uniform", Journal of the Korean 1) Changwon City (Apr. 2007). Southeast Society for Clothing Industry, 8(2), Industrial Complex Corporation. pp.203-208. 2) Kim, K. S., et al.(1993), "Workers’ Health 11) Yi, K. H. (2000), "A Suggestion of Sizing Status Related Working Environments in System for Clean Room Wear", Journal of Small and Medium Sized Industries", The the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Korean Journal of Occupational Medicine, 24(7), pp.1044-1055. 5(1), pp.3-14. 12)Lee,Y.J.․․ Chung,C. Jung,J.E.(2002), 3)Park,D.U.․․ Yoon,C.S. Paik,N.W. "Development of Cleanroom Garment Design (2002), Measurement of Working Environments, in Semiconductor Industrial Environment", Korea National Open University Press, JournaloftheKoreanSocietyofClothing pp.3-5, pp.199-221. and Textiles, 26(2), pp.337-348. 4)Choi,J.W.․․ Kim,S.Y. Lee,J.Y.(2004), 13) Sohn, B.․ Choi, H. S. (2001), "A Study on "A Survey on the Actual Condition of the Development and Evaluation of Mine Wearing Disposable Coveralls of Railroad Detective Gear", Journal of the Korean Rolling Stock Maintenance Workers", Journal Society of Clothing and Textiles, 25(4), of the Korean Society of Clothing and pp.707-718. Textiles, 28(8), pp.1165-1174. 14)Hong,K.H.․ Park,K.S.,Kwon,A.H.,
134 Park, Gin-Ah · Park, Hye-Won / The Distribution Condition and Clothing Construction Factors of the Working Clothes
Song,Y.S.,Oh,S.H.andJeung,Y.M. 17) NIOSH (National Institute for Occupational (1996), "Functional Design Process of Safety and Health), "Personal Protective Coveralls for the Improvement of Mobility", Equipment Regulations" Retrieved Feb. 20 JournaloftheKoreanSocietyofClothing 2008, from online at http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/ and Textiles, 20(2), pp.311-322. 18) Bae, H. S., op. cit. pp.115-124. 15) OSHA (Occupational Safety & Health 19)Kim,H.R.․ Suh,M.A.,op.cit. Administration), "Personal Protective Equipment pp.718-734. Regulations" Retrieved Feb. 20. 2008, from online at http://www.www.osha.gov/ 16) American National Standards Institute and Received February 26, 2008 National Society of Safety Engineers (1989), Revised (April 29, 2008 May 20, 2008) American National Standard: Practice for Accepted May 26, 2008 Occupational and Educational Eye and Face Protection,NewYork:AmericanNational Standards Institute, ANSI Z87.1-1989.
