Extremadura in Winter

Naturetrek Tour Report 10 November - 16 November 2019

Common Cranes by Archie Simpson

Spanish Imperial Eagle by Robert Manzano

Cinereous Vulture by Robert Manzano Griffon Vulture by Archie Simpson

Report compiled by Robert Manzano-Rubio Images courtesy of Robert Manzano-Rubio and Archie Simpson

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report in Winter

Tour participants: Robert Manzano-Rubio with four Naturetrek clients

Day 1 Sunday 10th November

Madrid Airport, hotel We grouped together at Madrid Airport after having different flight schedules. Light rain and the first raptors welcomed us as we were leaving the city in our vehicle: Marsh Harrier, a single Black Kite and in its usual perching spots at the telegraph poles. The snow-covered Gredos mountains soon appeared in the landscape with the dehesa open Oak woodland dominating the rolling hills in the foreground. First Common Cranes of the tour would be spotted from the car as we approached Extremadura. After a 3h drive we arrived to the hotel where Jesús was waiting to welcome us. After settling in our respective rooms, dinner was served, with Pumpkin cream as starter and traditional prueba as the main course.

Day 2 Monday 11th November Trujillo, Magasca plains, Tamuja river, Cáceres plains The first full day of our holiday started off with cold and breeze. Common Linnets and Iberian Magpies welcomed us outside the hotel with singing Spotless Starlings. The first stop would be at Parque de San Lázaro, in Trujillo, in order to get some lunch for the next days. Here the pond hosted the usual Little Ringed Plovers, Mute Swan and a single Water Pipit.

Driving northwest towards Santa Marta de Magasca, we soon entered the vast plains that characterises the region. Stopping by a large Natura 2000 network signboard, we started our walked leaving the open Oak woodland (dehesa) in our backs with Eurasian Hoopoes and Mistle Thrushes fluttering around. Surprisingly, some patches of dry grass were full of flying insects that proved to be Wood Tiger Moth. Bird diversity was good. Griffon Vultures, Cinereous Vultures, Red Kites and a flock of 15 Common Cranes were soaring in the sky. Looking at the ground we could spot Thekla’s Lark, the ubiquitous Northern Lapwing, Southern Grey Shrikes, a single Merlin and Spotless Starlings. Further down the track, a big bird walking at a slow pace quickly drew everybody’s attention: Little Bustard! The bird was perfectly camouflaged even in short grass and a few Golden Plovers accompanied it. Also, a quick flock of Black-bellied Sandgrouse flew past right in front of us showing its distinctive black belly. What a start!

We turned around in search for a hot drink at Santa Marta de Magasca town. Afterwards we drove towards Tamuja, a little river at the bottom of a deep Holm Oak woodland valley where we had lunch with the unexpected visit of a pair of Bonelli’s Eagle and a stunning Golden Eagle!

The afternoon would be spent exploring the plains of Cáceres, another Natura 2000 site further west. We drove to one of the few bird-hides you can find in these remote places. From here, a large flock of at least 50 Calandra Larks could be seen showing its distinctive black underwing in flight. Suddenly, some large birds were spotted by the group grazing in the far background. The telescope helped to confirm they were Great Bustards indeed! As the birds were too far away to enjoy them fully, we decided to take a walk along the main track. We didn’t manage to get the same flock again, but another male Great Bustard stood up in the horizon showing its great magnitude off and putting a fantastic end to this first day of our tour.

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Extremadura in Winter Tour Report

Day 3 Tuesday 12th November Hotel, Alcollarín reservoir, Campo Lugar pools Extremadura in winter has much more to offer than steppeland birds and raptors. Many of the man-made reservoirs built during the twentieth century host important populations of wintering waterfowl. We would dedicate most of the third day to Alcollarín Reservoir and surroundings.

A gentle walk before taking the vehicle in the morning allowed us to explore the surroundings of the hotel. Low flying Griffon Vultures with Cinereous Vultures gave us close up views of both of them. Also our tour leader Rob managed to get a flock of 6 Fieldfares before they quickly disappeared in flight.

We took the vehicle and drove south to Alcollarín Reservoir. Despite the strong wind that hit us right when we got out from the car, the first stop already gave us good diversity of waterfowl. The right end of the dam offered a highpoint to scan the whole reservoir, from where we managed to see Little Grebes, Great Crested Grebes, Northern Shoveler, Gadwall and Great Egrets amongst others. Two large flocks of birds resting in the far shoreline proved to be Common Cranes (c450 birds) and Aegyptian Geese (c150 birds). Two reed buntings flew off the grass as some of us wandered around in search for any plant or butterflies thriving in this time of the year.

Moving on, we reached the northernmost point of the reservoir from where we got closer views of the birds. From here, we could distinguish smaller waders feeding on the shallower waters: Ruff, Little Ringed Plover, , Spotted Redshank, Common Greenshank, Green Sandpiper and a single Black-winged Stilt. Raptors included a single Merlin giving a try to the smaller birds and a Marsh Harrier skimming a patch of grassland opposite us. We drove back to find our picnic area by the smaller dam, from where some of us got amazed by the brief sighting of a Kingfisher!

Last hours would be spent exploring Campo Lugar area, where we had Great Bustards in flight (what a beast!), a flock of unexpected Black-bellied Sandgrouses, a stunning Hen Harrier and about 20 Aegyptian Geese flying back to their roost.

Day 4 Wednesday 13th November Almonte river, Monfragüe National Park Any birdwatching holiday to Extremadura must include a visit to Monfragüe National Park, one of the gems of due to its raptor diversity and its breath-taking scenery. Today was the day as the forecast looked promising with temperatures reaching 22 ºC and light breeze.

Almonte river, tributary of the Tajo (Tagus), would be our first stop. Here Rock Sparrows, Greenfinches, Goldfinches, Crag Martins, Woodlark and Dartford Warbler (heard) were present, with the usual Griffon Vultures and one or two Cinrereous Vultures flying overhead in search of the first thermals of the day.

As we approached Monfragüe National Park, dark dots on the sky started to become a common sight, being most of them Griffon Vultures with the odd Cinereous Vulture amongst them. The first stop at Salto del Gitano

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Tour Report Extremadura in Winter

massive granitic gorge didn’t let anyone’s expectation down. Griffon Vultures were continuously soaring overhead, some of them getting down to eye level and flying past a few meters in front of us! Crag Martins flocked together and a Peregrine Falcon was shouted by one of the few visitors that was sharing the site. Black Redstarts and a striking male of Blue Rock thrush perched on the rocky outcrops by the road. Cirl Buntings and Hawfinches were calling from the inside of the Holm Oak forest before we moved on in search of a hot drink and the local sweet perrunas.

Afterwards, it was time for our picnic lunch at Mirador de la Tajadilla. On the way to there, the first Red Deers of the day were spotted and a shy Dartford Warbler called from the Gum-leaved Cistus scrub that dominated the landscape. Lunch was shared with curious Black Redstarts, Iberian Magpies and Robins.

Moving on into our last stop, Portilla del Tietar welcomed us with one of the highly awaited sightings: an adult Spanish Imperial Eagle flying overhead! Quickly, we parked the vehicle to take close-up shots of this breathtaking raptor. Soon the sky became full of Griffon Vultures flying low while coming back to the rocks for roosting. We ended the day spending a while in the bird-hide, having good views of Rock Bunting and Blue Rock Trush with Griffon Vultures landing for roosting.

Day 5 Thursday 14th November Trujillo, Palazuelo ricefields The rain and wind expected for the morning was a good excuse to make a visit to the cultural heritage features of Trujillo. We took the 15-minute drive to there and soon after we arrived the rain stopped and the sky started to clear. Western Jackdaws, a few Crag Martins and Spotless Starlings accompanied us during the wander we took to explore the historical town, including the San Francisco Convent, the Conquista Palace or the Trujillo Castle, where the usual Raven soared over the vast panoramic view of Cáceres land. After the hot coffee and the typical souvenir shopping were done, we drove back to the hotel for our picnic lunch in one of the beautiful terraces of our accommodation.

Back to work, the afternoon plan was to head down to Palazuelo ricefields where Common Cranes gather in large flocks for feeding and roosting. The site, being part of Vegas Altas del Guadiana area, comprises one of the main wintering areas in Europe for the species as three main factors concur here: ricefields, dehesas and large, undisturbed reservoirs. Soon when we approached the spot Common Cranes were already spotted from the vehicle. Literally hundreds of them were foraging, resting, preening and hoping in the ricefields. A few fields were flooded and here is where three Kentish Plovers, about 50 Dunlins and Green Sandpipers found the perfect habitat for feeding. The ditches irrigating the fields contained strips of bulrush where two exotic targets were finally spotted: Red Avadavat and Common Waxbill! A long awaited moment for some of us soon happened when a striking male Red Avadavat showed off its bright red plumage when landed in the ditch’s margin. A good flock of 30 juveniles were popping out from the bulrush from time to time before they disappeared again. This funny-named bird holds in Extremadura the main population in Spain.

Wind kept blowing hard which made us get back to the van and continue our exploration across the fields. Another dirt-track gave us a huge flock of 700 Spanish Sparrows, 50 Cattle Egrets, 4 White Storks and more hunting Marsh Harriers, before we started to make our way back to the hotel.

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Extremadura in Winter Tour Report

Day 6 Friday 15th November Belén plains, Monroy road, Almonte river, Jaraicejo Once again, our last full day of the tour started with close-to-zero temperatures and a little bit of breeze. A long day was ahead to have the last chance to see steppe birds as well as to see new species for the tour.

We left the hotel and drove to Belén plains, another vast grassland area east from Trujillo. It didn’t take long to get the first Little Owl of the tour, resting in one of the many stone-walls and turning its head showing its characteristic fake eye-brows in the nape. While having a short digiscoping tutorial the curious call of a Southern Grey Shrike could be heard in our backs. Also Eurasian Hoopoe, Sardinian Warbler and Rock Sparrow were present on this rich mosaic. Later on, the plains seemed pretty empty of steppe birds with only four Great Bustards that quickly disappeared behind a tiny hill and a few Calandra Larks too shy to get good views of them. However, more Southern Grey Shrikes were seen, with Little Owl sitting on an old farm house’s roof, many Corn Buntings, Stonechats perching along the track’s fence and a briefly calling Dartford Warbler from a Retama broom scrub.

Not being lucky in Belén, we decided to move on towards Monroy road, where the strong cold breeze stopped most of us from getting out. Here the only highlight was a single Marsh Harrier foraging alongside. A few kilometres further North, the deep valley of Almonte river was the perfect spot to get shelter from the breeze and have lunch. The sunshine bathing the grassy slopes with Late Narcissus in flower allowed the flight of some butterflies including Red Admiral, Small Copper and Southern Brown Argus. Several birds were present: Serin, Rock Bunting, Hawfinch and Kingfisher. Griffon and Cinereous Vultures started flying overhead before we continued our journey in search of an obligated hot-drink stop in the quiet town of Monroy.

The endless road across a true dehesa landscape took us to Jaraicejo, the last birding spot for the day with Dartford Warbler was the main target. We parked our vehicle and started our walk, paying attention to any bird call we heard. Thekla’s Lark were flying and perching in the scrub. A few minutes later, the distinctive chaiirrrr… came out from the bushes! A few Dartford Warblers started coming out from different locations in the scrub. Some of us managed to get a glimpse of the bird hoping showing its rather uniform grey plumage and its long tail.

We dragged ourselves down the track to get into the deep of a Cork Oak forest where Short-toed Treecreeper and Nuthatch were crawling up and down the harvested cork. The last light of the day gave us a magic encounter with a family of Red Deer before we made our way back to the hotel.

Day 7 Saturday 16th November Arrocampo reservoir, Madrid Airport Everything comes to an end and the cold and the frost on the car’s window were waiting for us in the last ouf this tour. A very early breakfast before saying goodbye to Jesús and his charming family gave us time for tasting the last bit of Extremadura bird diversity on our way back to Madrid Airport. Before that, our tour leader Rob quickly picked up a Short-toed Treecreeper calling from one of trees in the hotel’s garden.

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Tour Report Extremadura in Winter

The chosen site was Arrocampo reservoir, an extensive man-made wetland originally created to supply the nuclear station’s cooling system. The size, the relatively flat terrain and the mild waters discharging from the nuclear station allow reedbed and other wetland vegetation to develop and to hold an exceptional diversity where some target species could be seen. We stopped by the birdhide number 2 from where we had a wide panoramic view of the main area of the reservoir. The powerful and repetitive song of the Cetti’s Warbler welcomed us, singing from the first line of vegetation dominated by a community of rushes. Here a male Sardinian Warbler and a Zitting Cisticola were also moving around. Coming deeper from the reedbed more could be sighted: a rather elusive Western Swamphen and the invisible while a Marsh Harrier was patrolling the reed tops looking for any potential prey. Further in the background, the low temperatures kept Griffon and Cinereous Vultures low in the ground waiting the winter sun to warm up the air. Smaller birds in flight were also picked: Barn Swallows, Crag Martins, a small group of the exotic Common Waxbills and Red Avadavat and a Penduline Tit that quickly dived into the reeds before it could be picked by the group. Another brief stop by another corner of the reservoir gave us much closer views of two Western Swamphens this time.

We left the reservoir to take a minor road from in search of what it would be the last target species of the trip: the Black-winged Kite. Unfortunately, the bird didn’t show up this time so we decided to put an end to our birding and start making our way back to the airport. Red Kites foraging over the extensive grasslands and dehesa woodlands kept being seen from the motorway with an unexpected flock of White Storks flying low in search of the first thermals of the day.

The highlight of the day would come 2 minutes before entering Madrid area, when a dark raptor with flat wings was approaching from our left. It suddenly turned around and showed the white forewing that allowed us to confirm the identity: an adult Spanish Imperial Eagle! This was the totally unexpected end to a 7-day tour exploring the treasures of Extremadura winter wildlife.

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Extremadura in Winter Tour Report

Species Lists

Birds (✓ = recorded but not counted; H = heard only)

November Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 1 Mute Swan Cygnus olor 1 2 Greylag Goose Anser anser 3 3 Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus 180 4 Gadwall Mareca strepera ✓ 5 Eurasian Wigeon Mareca penelope ✓ 6 Anas platyrhynchos ✓ ✓ ✓ 7 Northern Shoveler Spatula clypeata ✓ 8 Northern Pintail Anas acuta ✓ 9 Eurasian Teal Anas crecca ✓ 10 Common Pochard Aythya ferina 1 11 Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa 6 2 12 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 7 ✓ 1 13 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus ✓ 14 White Stork Ciconia ciconia 4 ✓ 15 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis c30 1 c50 ✓ 16 Ardea cinerea 2 4 4 c5 2 17 Great Egret Ardea alba 3 1 18 Little Egret Egretta garzetta ✓ 1 2 19 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 2 ✓ 12 1 20 20 Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus c30 ✓ c150 ✓ ✓ ✓ 21 Cinereous Vulture Aegypius monachus 2 3 20 4 4 22 Spanish Imperial Eagle Aquila adalberti 3 1 23 Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos 1 24 Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciata 2 25 Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus 1 1 1 26 Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 1 1 2 c15 2 6 27 Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus 1 28 Red Kite Milvus milvus c50 c30 2 c4 c10 c15 29 Black Kite Milvus migrans >1 30 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo 1? 2 3 4 c7 31 Great Bustard Otis tarda 19 13 4 32 Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax 1 33 Water Rail Rallus aquaticus 3 34 Western Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio 4 35 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus ✓ 1 36 Common Crane Grus grus c35 c15 c450 8 c600 12 c30 37 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus 2 38 Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 39 European Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria c15 40 Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius 7 ✓ 41 Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus 3 42 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago 2 3 2 43 Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus 1 44 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 1 45 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 3 4 46 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 1

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Tour Report Extremadura in Winter

November Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 47 Dunlin Calidris alpina c50 48 Ruff Calidris pugnax 6 49 Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 1 ✓ 50 Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus c30 6 51 Pin-tailed Sandgrouse Pterocles alchata c35 52 Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis c20 c10 53 Rock Dove Columba livia ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 54 Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 55 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 56 Little Owl Athene noctua 3 1 57 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis 1 2 1 58 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops 7 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 59 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 1 3 ✓ 1 3 ✓ ✓ 60 Merlin Falco columbarius 1 2 61 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 2 62 Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis c10 c10 1 2 c10 ✓ 63 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius 3 1 64 Iberian Magpie Cyanopica cooki ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 65 Eurasian Magpie Pica pica ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 66 Western Jackdaw Coloeus monedula ✓ ✓ ✓ c10 67 Northern Raven Corvus corax 4 4 1 2 68 Eurasian Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ H1 69 Great Tit Parus major 1 ✓ ✓ 70 Eurasian Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus 3 71 Woodlark Lullula arborea H1 H2 72 Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis c20 c50 ✓ ✓ ✓ 73 Thekla Lark Galerida theklae 5 c3 5 ✓ 74 Crested Lark Galerida cristata 1 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 75 Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra c50 H ✓ 76 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 1 5 77 Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris 2 c70 ✓ 2 5 78 Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti 4 79 Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus 1 ✓ ✓ 80 Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 2 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 81 Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis 1 1 1 82 Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla ✓ ✓ ✓ 83 Dartford Warbler Sylvia undata H2 6 84 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala 1 5 H H ✓ ✓ 85 Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes ✓ H1 86 Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea H 87 Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla H2 3 H1 88 Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 89 Common Blackbird Turdus merula ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 90 Redwing Turdus iliacus 2 H 91 Fieldfare Turdus pilaris 6 92 Song Thrush Turdus philomelos ✓ ✓ ✓ 93 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus 1 1 2 ✓ 94 European Robin Erithacus rubecula ✓ ✓ H ✓ 95 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe 1 96 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 4 4 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 97 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius 3

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Extremadura in Winter Tour Report

November Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 98 European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola 5 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 99 House Sparrow Passer domesticus ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 100 Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis ✓ ✓ c700 ✓ ✓ 101 Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia 5 5 102 Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild ✓ ✓ 103 Red Avadavat Amandava amandava c50 4 104 Dunnock Prunella modularis H 105 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 1 1 1 1 ✓ 106 White Wagtail Motacilla alba alba 1 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 107 Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 108 Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta 1 ✓ 109 Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 110 Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes H1 H 2 111 European Greenfinch Chloris chloris ✓ 112 Common Linnet Linaria cannabina ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 113 European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 114 European Serin Serinus serinus H ✓ 1 ✓ 115 Eurasian Siskin Spinus spinus H1 116 Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 117 Rock Bunting Emberiza cia 3 H2 118 Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus H3 119 Common Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus 2 1

Mammals (D = Dead)

1 Iberian Hare Lepus granatensis 1 1 2 Rabbit Orytolagus cuniculus ✓ 1 3 Red Deer Cervus elaphus ✓ 12 4 Egyptian mongoose Herpestes ichneumon 1(D) 1(D) 5 Soprano Pipistrelle Pipistrellus pygmaeus 4

Invertebrates

1 Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta 1 ✓ ✓ 1 2 Painted Lady Vanessa cardui ✓ ✓ ✓ 3 African Grass Blue Zizeeria knysna ✓ 4 Large White Pieris brassicae ✓ 5 Southern Brown Argus Aricia cramera 1 6 Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas 1 7 Spanish Dung Beetle Copris hispanicus ✓ ✓ 8 Vestal Moth Rhodometra sacaria ✓ 9 Wood Tiger Moth Parasemia plantaginis plantains ✓ ✓ 10 A Robber fly Asilidae ✓ 11 A weevil Coniocleonus nigrosuturatus ✓

Plants

1 Autumn Buttercup Ranunculus bullatus ✓ ✓ 2 Late Narcissus Narcissus serotinus ✓ ✓ 3 A Mullein Berbascum sp. ✓ ✓ 4 A Raddish Brassicaceae ✓ 5 Oyster Cistle Scolimus sp. ✓

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Tour Report Extremadura in Winter

November Common name Scientific name 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 6 Gum-leaved Cistus Cistus ladanifer ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 7 Cork Oak Quercus suber ✓ 8 Nettle Tree (Mediterranean Hackberry) Celtis australis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 9 Strawberry Tree Arbutus unedo ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 10 Asparagus sp. Asparagus sp. ✓ 11 White Henbane Hyoscyamus albus ✓ 12 Kermes Oak Quercus coccifera ✓ 13 Wild Clary Salvia verbenaca ✓ 14 Autumn Snowflake Acis autumnalis ✓ 15 Devil's Snare Datura stramonium ✓ 16 Asphodel sp. Asphodelus aestivus/albus ✓

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