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Time-Out-Tokyo-Magazine-24.Pdf A toast to our Celebrating 10 years of 10th birthday Time Out Tokyo Celebrations of any kind call for a drink – and when it’s our 10th anniversary, we’re not going to stop at just one. In fact, we’ve been making our way through the best bars currently shaking up Tokyo’s vibrant drinking scene. Craft beer is taking over the city at the Inside moment, especially since so many quality ales are coming out of local breweries. It’s the same with Japanese wines; crisp and delicate-tasting October – December 2019 varieties using the country’s native koshu grape have been wowing local oenophiles. We also can’t ignore the artisanal gins in Japan that are breaking new ground with local botanicals including umbrella pine, kombu and shiitake mushroom. Don’t drink alcohol? We have something for you, too. Who says you can’t raise a glass with locally roasted coffee or premium green tea instead? Cheers! Quench your thirst with our drink list on p22 Bite-sized Fill up on the city’s best gyoza PAGE 44 Kitchen town The shopping haven for home cooks and professional chefs PAGE 48 YONA YONA BEER WORKS Feast alley Spirited away Eat your way through the famous Breweries, wineries and distilleries Omoide Yokocho worth a day trip from Tokyo PAGE 64 PAGE 68 FEATURES AND REGULARS 06 Tokyo Update 12 Courtesy Calls 13 Open Tokyo 16 To Do 22 The Drink List 44 Eating & Drinking 48 Shopping & Style 52 Things to Do 56 Art & Culture 60 Music 62 Nightlife 66 LGBT 67 Film 68 Travel & Hotels 72 Getting Around 74 You know you’re in Tokyo when… Cover Editor-in-Chief Staff Writers Editorial Assistant Staff Photographers Misaki Shindo Advisor ORIGINAL Inc. Art direction: Steve Nakamura Lim Chee Wah Kunihiro Miki Youka Nagase Keisuke Tanigawa Phillip Huey Masashi Takahashi 101, 5-9-9 Hiroo, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 Contributing Editor +81 (0)3 5792 5721 www.timeout.com/tokyo Photography: Naohiro Tsukada Mari Hiratsuka Designers Kisa Toyoshima Paul Clark Executive Vice President Marcus Webb Shiori Kotaki Yuki Masuko Administration Ili Saarinen Akiko Toya Advertising and general enquiries: [email protected] Editor Tabea Greuner Chikako Fukui Momo Ando Leo Kaku President/Publisher Kaila Imada Miroku Hina Yuko Odanaka Creative Solutions Aidan McFarlane Hiroyuki Fushitani Time Out Digital Time Out Group CEO 77 Wicklow Street, Jessica Thompson Zineb Bektachi Mao Kawakami Reina Iwabuchi Julio Bruno London, WC1X 9JY Founder Emma Steen Naoki Shimao www.timeout.com Tony Elliott KEISUKE TANIGAWA, KISA TOYOSHIMA Kasey Furutani Aya Ito +44 (0)207 813 3000 6 October-December, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Tokyo Update Tokyo COUNTDOWN TO ON THE COVER Update TOKYO 2020 FIVE THINGS Made entirely from handcrafted wooden gears, the karakuri is a traditional Japanese mechanical doll dating back to the 17th century. You could say they are an early ancestor of modern robots, created as tools of entertainment. They come in three varieties: the zashiki karakuri are made for personal use, dashi karakuri are for display on moving carriages and floats at festivals, and butai karakuri are the puppets used in plays. TOKYO METROPOLITAN GOVERNMENT METROPOLITAN TOKYO Tokyoites © TOKYO 2020 The tea-serving doll on the cover is a form of a zashiki karakuri, said to have the most complex 2 The Tokyo 2020 Olympics are less than a year away, and the party mechanics. When a tea cup is placed onto the tray in its hands, it starts moving forward to serve the has started early, with Games-related festivities already taking place drink. Once the empty cup is returned, it’ll make a u-turn, heading back to its original placement. Yayoi Kusama’s polka dot piano throughout the city. The first ticket lottery for residents in Japan has come Despite the karakuri’s diminishing appeal among the younger generations, Karakuri Giemon is one of are talking and gone (there will be another one in autumn), the venues have been the few independent doll makers that’s still keeping this tradition alive. Youka Nagase For the reopening of the South Observation Deck at the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building in Shinjuku, announced, and now the medal design has been revealed. àkarakuri-giemon.net Over 400 entries were submitted to the nationwide contest, with the the famed artist decorated a piano with her signature motif. winning design coming from Osaka-born Junichi Kawanishi, the director Good news: anyone can play it for free. of the Japan Sign Design Association and the Osaka Design Society. about àtinyurl.com/TOTtmg His medal design stood out for its sleek aesthetic that references both Tokyo, zoomed in Japanese and Olympic elements. We know how frustrating it can be trying to locate 3 4 The ribbon adorning the medal is also inspired by Japanese tradition. specific places in Tokyo given the metropolis has Ichimatsu moyo, a navy and white checkered pattern popular in the Edo no street names (save for major roads). Which is period, will be a main feature on the ribbon; the same design is also why starting from this issue, we are incorporating used in the Games’ official logo. The colours, on the other hand, are what3words addresses in selected features (‘Autumn inspired by kasane no irome, a colour layering technique associated Walks’, p54-55, and ‘Memory Lane’, p64-65). with the kimono. These traditional elements are then fused with modern This new digital geo-coding system uses a unique, technology, in which the tactile silicone convex lines allow the wearer to and permanent, three-word address for each 3m x 3m identify if the medal is gold, silver or bronze just by touch. square in the world, resulting in addresses that are 10% Sustainability has always been a guiding force for the Tokyo 2020 as precise as GPS coordinates – only much easier Games. For two years starting April 2017, the public was invited to donate to say and share. These what3words addresses are Japan’s consumption tax takes their unwanted cell phones and other small electronics, from which preceded by the symbol ‘///’. To navigate, simply a hike from 8 to 10 percent gold, silver and bronze will be extracted and made into 5,000 medals for download the free what3words app from Google starting October 1. However, the winning athletes. These medals will then be made domestically by Play or the App Store. Japanese craftworkers. Kasey Furutani àwhat3words.com this excludes takeout food and nonalcoholic beverages, whose tax will remain unchanged. So Shibuya’s highest observation deck TM © RUGBY WORLD CUP LIMITED 1986 if you’re an overseas tourist, to open on November 1 At 230 metres, the outdoor observation deck on 1 there’s even more reason to carry the roof of the new Shibuya Scramble Square your passport to enjoy tax-free building will be the tallest in the area. Aside from a THE VIEW FROM YOU Rugby World Cup 2019 shopping at selected stores 360-degree panoramic view, you might even see Japan is the first Asian country to across the country. Mt Fuji on a clear day (pictured). host the prestigious tournament. àshibuya-scramble-square.com There will be 48 matches happening across 12 cities from 5 Cool September 20 to November 2. Expect the festivities to spill out Shibuya goes dry for Halloween spaces from the stadiums and onto the On Halloween, the Shibuya Scramble and its surrounds turn into one big and wild outdoor costume Shibuya Crossing Tokyo International Forum Higashiya Ginza streets over the six weeks. party, so much so that the authorities have banned public drinking to curb any unruly shenanigans. in Tokyo By @alx.fto By @erenjam By @thewalkingchopsticks àDiscover top things to do in the host cities at rugbyjapan.jp This new regulation will be enforced on October 31 and November 1, as well as the Friday, Saturday and Sunday of the previous week, plus over New Year from December 31 to January 1. Send us your best Instagram photos of the city with #TimeOutTokyo Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2019 6 7 October-December, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Tokyo Update Tokyo Update MISSED AN ISSUE? ONE DAY IN… EAT & DRINK You can download the digital edition of our TAS YARD Tens across the board This combined café and grocery store, created and run by the famed design previous issues for FREE at To celebrate our 10th anniversary, we’ve picked timeout.com/tokyo/ outfit Landscape Products, is like the unofficial club house of Sendagaya’s digital-edition fashion and creative scenes. The natural wood-rich interior is one for lovers our 10 favourite covers from the past 10 years Sendagaya of the earthy, Kinfolk magazine-style aesthetic, and Tas Yard pays great attention to ingredients used in its simple and healthy curry, pasta and rice- based dishes. On warmer days, the lush terrace is one of Sendagaya’s best Nestled between Harajuku spots to kick back and indulge in some people-watching, fresh drip coffee or and Shinjuku Gyoen, all-natural soft drink in hand. In 2009 Time Out Tokyo à3-3-14 Sendagaya, Shibuya (Kita-Sando Station). 03 3470 3940. tasyard.com. launched with a series of guides Sendagaya has quietly 11.30am-8pm, Sat, Sun & hols 11am-8pm. and maps, as well as the opening become one of Tokyo’s of Time Out Café & Diner in hippest neighbourhoods. The PHO 321 NOODLE BAR Ebisu. It wasn’t until late 2013 With traditional Vietnamese dishes served in a pared- that we first published our area has long had strong ties down yet well-designed space, you might call this the pho quarterly magazine.
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