Yellowstone & Grand Teton Where Wild Things Roam September 12-22, 2018 Leaders: Rob Gibbs & Mark England

Itinerary

Yellowstone and Grand Teton are two of the most beloved National Parks in the U.S., part of a huge ecosystem known as Greater Yellowstone. Our journey is designed to combine a search for wildlife with observations of the workings of this ecosystem, one of the largest protected natural areas in the U.S. outside of . We’ll visit many habitats and see many of the best-known scenic wonders of the two parks, from geysers and other thermal features to the most celebrated vistas of our country.

Our trip is planned for the active nature enthusiast. We’ll stay in delightful lodges inside or at the edge of the parks for the entirety of the trip, heading into the field each day to search for wildlife and enjoy scenic wonders. Much of our time will be spent searching for birds and mammals, but we’ll also note wildflowers, trees, butterflies, fish, reptiles, amphibians, and geology. We’ll be in the field all day, but most walks will be at a leisurely pace, stopping often to watch wildlife or discuss what we’re seeing. There may be options for a few longer walks – unless all group members choose the same option, one leader will take the longer walk while the other continues at the more modest pace. We’ll also discuss the region’s history, including the significance of Yellowstone, the world’s first national park, in the history of conservation. By trip’s end we will hope to have seen an excellent variety of wildlife and developed a holistic understanding of the ecology of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. The trip is focused primarily on Yellowstone National Park, but also spends a little time in Grand Teton National Park and on the Beartooth Plateau, northeast of Yellowstone.

The following day-to-day itinerary provides an outline of our plans and a sampling of the wildlife we may see. Details of this itinerary may be changed at the discretion of the leaders due to transportation delays, weather conditions, or other unforeseen circumstances.

Wednesday, September 12 Our journey begins with the arrival of midday flights into Jackson, . The leaders will shuttle the group north from the airport to the lovely Jackson Lake Lodge, in Grand Teton National Park. Just outside the lodge is a broad, willow-filled wetland where moose and Yellow-headed Blackbirds roam. Beyond the marsh is the majestic Teton Mountain skyline. Depending on flight times, there should be a chance to explore the marsh and learn a few of the more common birds, mammals, trees, and wildflowers. Overnight at the Jackson Lake Lodge. Note: The town of Jackson, sometimes called “,” is a vibrant town filled with galleries, shops, and restaurants. If you’d like some time to explore the town, consider coming a day early or staying an extra day and spending a night at one of the many motels or cabins right in Jackson. Be sure to book early if you choose this option, lodging space is at a premium at this season.

Thursday, September 13 This is our day for exploring Grand Teton National Park. We will visit Jenny Lake, right at the foot of the dramatic Teton Mountain range. We will stroll a trail near the lake, enjoying the vistas overhead while noting the local vegetation, songbirds, and perhaps a few mammals down at our level. There are chances to see Dusky Grouse, Three-toed Woodpecker, Western Wood-Pewee, and other wildlife of the forest. You’re sure to love the view here. There are also options this afternoon for modest hikes near the lodge, perhaps along the trail to Two Ocean Lake, or just enjoy an easy stroll or a search for moose right at the lodge. Overnight at Jackson Lake Lodge.

Friday, September 14 We begin the day with an optional pre-breakfast bird walk right by the lodge. We then pack up and drive north and up in elevation to the broad plateau of Yellowstone National Park. Much of the park is situated in a huge, ancient caldera or volcanic crater, whose elevation is roughly 7,000 feet above sea level. It’s likely to be chilly in Yellowstone in mid-September, as fall comes early at these high elevations. The forests of this scenic canyon were severely burnt during the famous Yellowstone wildfires of 1988; we’ll enjoy the views while assessing the progress of forest recovery. Our journey next takes us along the shores of Yellowstone Lake; we’ll get our first glimpse of the geothermal wonders of Yellowstone at the West Thumb Geyser Basin. At other stops along the lake we can search for birds – White Pelicans, California Gulls, and Common Mergansers are often seen here. We then travel through the open grasslands of the Hayden Valley, one of the best places in the park for seeing large mammals. We’re likely to see bison here, and we’ll scan the slopes for a view of grizzly bear – while these impressive animals frequently travel through the Hayden Valley, they are secretive and we’ll have to be vigilant and lucky to see one. Our travels conclude with arrival at Canyon Village, where we check into comfortable cabins. Overnight at Canyon Lodge.

Saturday, September 15 This morning we will visit the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, with its two spectacular waterfalls. We’ll marvel at this geological wonder while watching for nesting Osprey along the canyon walls and a variety of songbirds in the woods. We’re likely to return to the Hayden Valley either early in the morning, late in the evening, or both, to search for wildlife during those hours of peak mammal activity. The Yellowstone River meanders through the Hayden Valley, and we’re likely to see Barrow’s Goldeneyes and other waterfowl right on the river. There are a number of other locations we may choose to visit in this region. Overnight at Canyon Lodge.

Sunday, September 16 This morning we cross the shoulder of Mt. Washburn, a dramatic peak located along the edge of the great Yellowstone Caldera, and ancient volcanic crater of massive proportion. Mt. Washburn is home to broad meadows and the peak’s rocky crags can harbor Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. We’ll pass Tower Falls and possibly take a brief detour into the Lamar Valley, a broad sage and grass-covered plain where wildlife often abounds. We will be returning here later in the trip. Next we travel across the northern edge of Yellowstone and explore the wildlife-rich Blacktail Plateau, perhaps driving the scenic loop through this lightly-traveled corner of the park. Several small ponds dot the roadsides here, and we’ll scan for waterfowl, beavers, and other wildlife in these fertile wetlands and surrounding habitat. Our destination is Mammoth Hot Springs, home to the Park’s main Visitor Center. The surrounding area is another great spot for elk, bison, pronghorn, and other wildlife. Short walks at the Mammoth Hot Springs terraces give us a look at Yellowstone’s most massive geothermal marvel. Overnight in Gardiner at the Yellowstone Village Inn.

Monday, September 17 We will start our day with an early morning bird walk, and spend the morning exploring around the Mammoth Area before heading to Cooke City back through the beautiful Lamar Valley. Since their reintroduction here in 1995, this has been the best area in the park for seeing wolves, and we’ll make a special effort to find these charismatic canines. Bison, elk, bear, pronghorn, and other big mammals may be seen in the Lamar Valley, and the dry, open habitat here is home to a great variety of raptors and songbirds, including Swainson’s Hawk, Brewer’s Sparrow, and Rock Wren. We finish the day just outside Yellowstone’s northeastern entrance at the town of Cooke City. Overnight Cooke City Super 8.

Tuesday, September 18 We start early and return to the Lamar Valley shortly after sunrise. We’ll make every effort to see wolves as we explore this wildlife rich landscape and discuss the famous wolf reintroduction program that began here in 1995. After a full morning in the Lamar Valley, we head back out of the park and travel up the scenic Beartooth Highway, climbing to nearly 11,000 feet above sea level at Beartooth Pass. We’ll stroll around the high meadows here, where there’s a good chance we could see the first snow of the season. On clear days the vistas from the Beartooth Plateau are astounding, but whatever the weather, we’ve got good chances to find alpine wildlife here. Golden Eagles and Prairie Falcons glide over the high points, and songbirds of the alpine zone include Black Rosy-Finch, American Pipit, and Horned Lark. We’ll stay watchful for yellow-bellied marmots, pikas, and other alpine mammals, too. Overnight at Cooke City Super 8.

Wednesday, September 19 We will get an early start today as we head back through the Lamar Valley towards Mammoth to wind our way along the northwestern side of Yellowstone National Park. The drive takes us past geysers and other thermal features including the amazing Norris Geyser Basin, the hottest and most active geyser area in the park. We’ll search for wildlife along the Madison River, where we may see Trumpeter Swans, Bald Eagles, Elk and Beavers. We’ll enter the valley of the Firehole River, named for the astounding concentration of geysers, hot springs, fumaroles, boiling mud pots, and other geothermal features, a truly unique landscape. We’ll end the day at Old Faithful, and we’ll be sure to enjoy an eruption of the world’s most famous geyser, just outside of our lodge. Overnight at the Old Faithful Snowlodge.

Thursday, September 20 We may offer an optional early morning walk near the lodge this day; the forests rimming the Upper Geyser Basin are home to Pine Grosbeak, Red Crossbill, Snowshoe Hare, Yellow-bellied Marmot, and much other wildlife. Some free time after breakfast gives everyone time to stroll through the famous thermal basin on your own – or you can tag along with one of the leaders. Later we will explore other nearby trails and geyser areas, always with an eye out for wildlife. Walks through the Upper Geyser Basin include a short uphill trek to a magnificent vista point where the entire basin may be viewed. After lunch at Old Faithful we’ll travel a short distance downstream along the Firehole River to visit the Biscuit Basin, the Midway Geyser Basin, and the Lower Geyser Basin, observing countless geothermal wonders. Wildlife is here, too; we could see bison, mule deer, Mountain Bluebirds, or even Baird’s Sandpipers right at the edge of boiling hot springs. Overnight at the Old Faithful Snowlodge.

Friday, September 21: We won’t rush away from Old Faithful this morning, ensuring all at least one more view of the reliable geyser. There’s flexibility in our schedule this day, too; we may choose to spend all morning around the Upper Geyser Basin, or we may head out earlier to reach our next destination. We’ll be heading out of Yellowstone this day, returning to Grand Teton National Park to the south and the town of Jackson Hole. We’ll take our time, stopping to bird and watch wildlife along the route. We’ll gather in the evening to share a last meal together and reminisce about some of our great sightings and experiences. Overnight at the Lexington at Jackson Hole.

Saturday September 22 Our journey concludes with shuttles to the Jackson airport for flights home.

Leadership Rob Gibbs Rob Gibbs lives in Cornville, Arizona but grew up in Maryland. He spent his professional career working as a Park Naturalist, Wildlife Ecologist, and Natural Resources Manager for the Maryland National Capital Park and Planning Commission. Rob has led natural history and birding field trips for over 35 years for various organizations including the Audubon Naturalist Society and the Smithsonian Institution. His most recent trips for ANS include Alaska, Yellowstone National Park, Panama, Cuba, Honduras, California and Southeast Arizona. His life-long passion is learning and teaching others about the natural world.

Mark England is a skilled naturalist and ANS member who teaches bird courses in the Natural History Field Studies Program sponsored by ANS and The Graduate School. He leads many ANS local forays and has co-led a number of ANS nature travel programs, including trips to Montana, South Texas, SE Arizona, and Colorado. In 2011, he received the Certificate of Accomplishment in Natural History Field Studies from The Graduate School and ANS. Together Rob and Mark led the ANS 2008, 2012 and 2015 Yellowstone trips.