Desert Preserve Big Room the Lure of Wild Orchids Gold, Gold Everywhere Tucson’S Noted Exhibition {Also Inside} FEBRUARY 2004
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the eternal search for ‘lost’ gold mines arizonahighways.com FEBRUARY 2004 First Peek at Discover Our Kartchner Newest Caverns’ Desert Preserve big room The Lure of wild orchids gold, gold everywhere Tucson’s Noted Exhibition {also inside} FEBRUARY 2004 46 DESTINATION Kartchner Caverns State Park A new Big Room has opened in southeast Arizona’s “living” cave, where breathtaking formations create 20 COVER/PORTFOLIO 6 EVENTS one of the world’s great underground sites. Desert Preserve A Show of Gold: 42 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE Alamo Lake Our new Sonoran Desert National Monument 50th Anniversary The eastern-Arizona lake attracts bald eagles, plenty protects a significant history of pioneers, explorers, The Tucson Gem and Mineral Society celebrates a of fish and visitors who like secluded desert beauty. backcountry travelers, Indians and soldiers. milestone exhibition with another extravagant display of alluring and amazing precious metal. 48 HIKE OF THE MONTH Wilson Canyon Trail TRAVEL 34 Near Sedona, this 1.5-mile trail wanders through Eluding All Seekers, ADVENTURE Arizona cypress trees for an easy and delightfully 12 scented forest outing. the White Ghost Lives On Searching for ‘Lost’ Gold Mines 2 LETTERS AND E-MAIL Around Kendrick Peak, northwest of Flagstaff, the The mesmerizing attraction of vanished or mislaid legend persists of a rarely seen, mysterious white treasures — or perhaps mere lies and dreams — has 3 TAKING THE OFF-RAMP deer, revered by locals, tourists and hunters who kept the inner fires burning for those who would Explore Arizona refuse to shoot. go in quest. oddities, attractions Grand Canyon and pleasures. National Park Kendrick FOCUS ON NATURE 40 HIGHWAY TO Peak Wilson 16 Stalking Wild Orchids HUMOR Canyon Alamo PHOENIX Passionate admirers of these fascinating beauties of White Lake Mountains the flower world hunt Arizona’s 26 native varieties. Sonoran Desert Santa Catalina National Monument Mountains TUCSON Kartchner Caverns POINTS OF INTEREST FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE {more stories online} at arizonahighways.com GENE PERRET’S WIT STOP If there’s a hex on misappropriated petrified wood souvenirs, our author’s the last guy to admit it. ONLINE EXTRA Gold Mining in Arizona In 1858, men with visions of treasure began a rush [THIS PAGE] Yei-bichei formation into what would become Arizona Territory after news and its northernmost spire, Totem- of rich deposits on the Gila River ignited their pole, frame a perfect blue sky above the rippled sands of Monument imaginations. Valley on the Navajo Indian Reservation. CHUCK LAWSEN WEEKEND GETAWAY [FRONT COVER] A stand of saguaro Fort Lowell Park cacti flaunts a distinctive variety of This tree-lined, activity-filled park in Tucson once was profiles before the rising sun in the Sonoran Desert National Monument. home to ancient Hohokam Indians, and more recently For more on one of our newest to an Old West garrison of U.S. Army troops. The park’s protected monuments, see the museum displays relics from both cultures. portfolio on page 20. JACK DYKINGA [BACK COVER] Dawn bursts through EXPERIENCE ARIZONA fog-shrouded ponderosa pine trees A festival of fun cold-weather events in Flagstaff and a near Big Lake in the White Mountains of eastern Arizona. cowboy poetry and music gathering in Sierra Vista are RANDY PRENTICE among Arizona’s February activities. {letters & e-mail} Arizona Oddities, Attractions and Pleasures {taking the off- ramp } FEBRUARY 2004 VOL. 80, NO. 2 Publisher WIN HOLDEN Editor ROBERT J. EARLY Senior Editor BETH DEVENY Cemetery Remembrance about the Cameron Trading Post in your Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN $1 each — from California’s Catalina THIS MONTH IN Research Editor MARY PRATT In the September 2003 issue, I read the “Along the “Destination” department. Knowing we would be Editorial Administrator CONNIE BOCH Island, which Wrigley owned. Way” column on Camelback Cemetery. passing through there on our way to Sunset Crater, Administrative Assistant NIKKI KIMBEL Songwriter Irving Berlin, ARIZONA A few days before Christmas in 1932, we buried I said to my wife, “Let’s stop there.” Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER another poolside regular, used Photography Editor RICHARD MAACK my father in Camelback Cemetery. I was probably We did so and I asked if that was Elsie Glander (a the Biltmore as a working retreat. The Mexican Art Director MARY WINKELMAN VELGOS 1848 three weeks away from my 13th birthday. I was the Navajo woman featured in the story) sitting over In 1939, an Arizona Republic War ends with Deputy Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY oldest of six children. there weaving a blanket, and was told, “Yes, she is.” Deputy Art Director BILLIE JO BISHOP reporter caught up with Berlin as the signing of the Treaty of My aunt, who was Daddy’s sister, and her I walked over and asked if she had seen the Art Assistant PAULY HELLER Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY he lounged in trunks and dark Guadalupe- husband took my mother and all of us children to article about the Cameron Trading Post, and she glasses. Berlin had been there a Hidalgo. Arizona Highways Books the cemetery after the services. She wanted us to said she had but only had one copy. I gave her WitWorks® Books week and had already written six see where Daddy was buried so if, after we were mine, and she was so thrilled you would have Editor BOB ALBANO songs, as well as the score for the Associate Editor EVELYN HOWELL Capt. Sherod grown and wanted to show our own children where thought I gave her a million dollars. It made my day. Associate Editor PK PERKIN MCMAHON movie When Winter Comes, 1862 For 75 Years, the Arizona Biltmore Hunter and his their Grandpa George Thaggard was buried, we Bobby and Faith Brown, Fort Mohave Production Director CINDY MACKEY starring Sonja Henie. Confederate would know how to find the grave. Production Coordinator KIM ENSENBERGER The composer said lyrics came troops occupy Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON Has Brought Out the Song in Everyone Tucson without My mother took a camera along and stood us at Magazines to Iraq Webmaster VICKY SNOW to him more quickly in Phoenix firing a shot. the head of Daddy’s grave, on the left side of a We now send our copies of Arizona Highways on to Marketing Director hen the Arizona Biltmore impromptu concert. Guests poured than anywhere else. “When I’m grave with a marker that read “Laura Dunne Stanley our grandson who is serving with the Arizona PATRICIA POWERS-ZERMEÑO resort opened on February from their rooms working like this, the sunshine is and Baby.” So you can see why it brought back National Guard in Iraq. Circulation Director HOLLY CARNAHAN 23, 1929, newspapers on hearing the vital to me,” he said. Arizona W 1863Territory is memories. Max and Shirley Crandall, Traverse City, MI Finance Director ROBERT M. STEELE hailed it as an example of lavish com motion, Maybe the sunshine made created by the As far as I know, my Dad’s grave is unmarked, Many of our readers are doing the same, sending a Fulfillment Director VALERIE J. BECKETT living in a great oasis. But its prepared to him think U.S. Congress. but in standing in front of the two graves, touch of home to our soldiers serving in harm’s way. Information Technology Manager location — 8 miles northeast of complain of snow. Daddy’s would be on the left side of Laura Dunne It is a tradition of sorts that began during World War CINDY BORMANIS downtown Phoenix — scared some about their In her book, Maricopa Stanley. II. And judging by our mail, the troops really ap- FOR CUSTOMER INQUIRIES parents, who refused to allow their interrupted The Complete 1871 OR TO ORDER BY PHONE: County is Sybil Thaggard Sammons, Los Banos, CA preciate it. Call toll-free: (800) 543-5432 daughters to stay in employee slumber. Lyrics of Irving created from In the Phoenix area or outside the U.S., dorms, so distant from civilization. They calmed Berlin, daughter portions of Pima and Satisfied Readers Kartchner Caverns Call (602) 712-2000 Although no one considers the down when they Linda Berlin Or visit us online at: Yavapai I subscribed to Arizona Highways on a whim last fall I was in Bisbee recently visiting my sister, and we arizonahighways.com “jewel in the desert” remote saw Sinatra and his Emmet said he might have counties. when the junior class at our high school held a took a side trip to Kartchner Caverns. I was left For Corporate or Trade Sales: friends. The kibitzers crowded written his biggest hit — one of the Sales Manager HELEN THOMPSON magazine drive. I wanted a magazine that showed speechless, it was such a beautiful place. I would onto the second-floor promenade, most popular songs ever — at the Call (602) 712-2050 C.T. Rogers me the West. Arizona Highways does just that. Your tell anyone visiting Arizona that a trip to the tapping their toes. Bing Crosby desert-bound Biltmore. 1878 E-MAIL “LETTERS TO THE EDITOR”: establishes a magazine brings to life in its beautiful photography caverns is a must. [email protected] had created a similar sensation The title? “White Christmas.” 160-acre ranch the places I’ve visited only in books. In fact, I liked Mary Romero Sabato, Philadelphia, PA Regular Mail: years before. Information: (602) 955-6600. at the base of Bill Williams the magazine so much I purchased several of the Editor 2039 W. Lewis Ave. Brothers Charles and Warren Mountain. The Wild West books you publish and thoroughly Need More Maps Phoenix, AZ 85009 McArthur built the hotel to site is later incorporated enjoyed them.