THE FOLD LINE PRESENTS TRIBE PATTERNS

hello sailor top contents Fabric and pieces fabric and pattern pieces 2 fabrics

We recommend light weight woven fabrics such as lightweight cotton, cotton lawn, layplans 3 linen, rayon, crepe or georgette.

Instructions 4-18 The pattern is designed for a person 5 feet 6 inches tall and cup size C. We recommend you make a toile first using a similar fabric to the final version. glossary 19 Additional materials sizes 20 Handmade bias tape: fabric piece measuring 70cm wide by 60 cm OR 3.2m of shop bought bias tape.

pattern pieces

a - front bodice B - back bodice C - front bias tape D - back neck tie E - armhole bias tape F - back neckline bias tape

notes All allowances are 1.5cm unless otherwise stated. Where ‘finish the seams’ is referenced, a zigzag or can be used. LAYPLANS

115CM/45” WIDE FABRIC 140CM/55” WIDE FABRIC Sizes 6-24 Sizes 6-16

A AB A B A foldline fold line foldline foldline foldline A foldline B A foldline foldline A B A foldline foldline foldline foldline selvedges selvedges selvedges fold line foldline selvedges 140CM/55” WIDE FABRIC foldline selvedges B B Sizes 18-24 B B 1 2

A A Print out the PDF pattern, checking Staystitch the neckline of the front A A B A your printer scale is set to 100% and back bodices inside the 1.5cm foldline A foldline and stick the sheets together. .

D D D D

D foldline F foldline F selvedges selvedges and out the pattern pieces, D E E selvedge selvedge F foldline E selvedges E foldline E snipping 1cm into the side seam selvedges

selvedge D C C

E D

F foldline C selvedges notch on both the front and back

E selvedge selvedge selvedge

E selvedges fold line

bodice pieces. Mark the darts on selvedge C

B selvedge selvedge B B B the front bodice. selvedge B

A

D D

F foldline selvedges E selvedge E

C

selvedge selvedge selvedge B

3-4 3 4 5 6

Stitch the front bodice darts and On front bodice, press over the side Overlock or the bodice Overlock or zigzag stitch the press them down towards the . seam below the notches by 0.5cm side seams sepa- rately, from the shoulder seams of the front and and then by another 0.5cm. Stitch underarm to the notch. back bodice pieces separately. from the hem to the notch. Repeat for the back bodice.

7-8 7 8 9 10

With right sides together and a With right sides together, pin and Press over 0.5cm along one long Line up the non-pressed edge of 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch the stitch the side seams of the bodice edge of the back neck bias tape. the back neck bias tape with the front and back bodices at the shoul- pieces from the underarm to the back neckline of the bodice. Pin in der seams. Press the seams open. notch. When you join the stitching place and stitch with a 1.5cm seam at the notch, pivot and stitch across allowance. diagonally. Press the side seams open. the seam allowance down to 5mm.

9-10 11 12 13 14

Press the back neck bias tape Carefully edgestitch the back neck Press over 0.5cm of one long edge Line up the non-pressed edge of towards the seam allowance and bias tape in place, close to the of the front neck bias tape. the front neck bias tape with the again, this time enclosing the seam pressed seam. front neckline of the bodice. Pin in allowance. place and stitch with a 1.5cm seam allowance.

11-12 15 16 17 18

Trim the ends of the front neck bias With right sides together and a With right sides together, fold the Trim the seam allowance of the tape down to 1.5cm beyond the 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch a back neck tie pieces in half sides. back neck tie pieces down to 4mm. edge at the back neckline. back neck tie piece to either side of With a 1cm seam allowance, stitch Also trim off the corner. the front bias tape. from the edge of the back neckline, stopping 1.5cm before the end. Trim the seam allowances down to Pivot at this point and stitch across 0.5cm. Press open. to finish.

13-14 19 20 21 22

Using a large needle and double Trim the seam allowance of the Press over 0.5cm along one long Line up and pin the armhole neck , loop through the end of front neck down to 0.5cm. edge of the both armhole neck bias bias tape at the underarm seam. one back neck tie piece. To turn the tape pieces. Using the pin as a guide, trim away back neck ties right sides out, first Press over the front neck bias tape the excess fabric leaving a 1.5cm put the needle through the stitch- towards the seam allowance and Line up the non- pressed edge of seam allowance. ing and between both layers of again, encasing the seam allow- the armhole neck bias tape with the fabric. Thread the needle through ance. armhole. Pin in place and stitch with to the opposite end. The tricky bit is a 1.5cm seam allowance, leaving easing the corner to get started but Carefully edgestitch the front neck a 2cm gap either side of the under- then it should pull through easily. bias tape in place. arm seam.

Catch stitch the back neck tie in place where it meets the nodice.

15-16 23 25 whoop whoop - you’ve finished!

Stitch the armhole bias tape closed Trim both armhole seam allowances Welcome to the tribe, with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Trim down to 5mm. share your makes #tribepatterns the seam allowance down to 0.5cm. Press open. Carefully edgestitch the armhole bias tape in place, close to the seam. Repeat for the other armhole. 24 26

Stitch the 4cm gap at the underarm To finish, fold the hem over by seam closed. Repeat steps 29 - 32 0.5cm and press, then by a further for the other armhole. 0.5cm and press. Edge stitch in place.

17-18 glossary sizes chart 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 INCHES Bust 33 34 35 36 38 40 42 44.5 47.5 50.5 waist 27 28 29 30 32 34 36 38.5 41.5 44.5 hip 38 39 40 41 43 45 47 49.5 52.5 55.5 EDGESTITCH - stitching close to a seam SEAM ALLOWANCE - the area between on the right side of the fabric. the raw edge and stitching line of the CM fabric. Bust 84 86.5 89 91.5 96.5 101.5 107 113 120.5 127.5 FACING - a piece of fabric on the inside waist 68.5 71 73.5 76 81.5 86.5 91.5 98 105.5 113 of a garment to neatly finish a raw edge. SKEIN - several metres of six strands of hip 96.5 98 101.5 104 109 114.5 119.5 125.5 133.5 141 thread. FINISH SEAMS - to neaten the raw edges fitted of fabric with an overlock or zigzag stitch. SNIP - a short cut with into the inches fabric. Bust 34 35 36 37 39 41 43 45.5 48.5 51.5 HAND STITCH - using a needle and waist 37 38 39 40 42 44 46 48.5 51.5 54.5 thread to stitch fabric together. STAY STITCH - a longer stitch length hip 39 40 41 42 44 46 48 50.5 53.5 56.5 used to stop fabric cut on a curve from CM INVISIBLE ZIP - a zip that cannot be seen stretching. 86.5 89 91.5 94 99 104 109 115.5 123 131 when stitching into a garment. Bust waist 94 96.5 99 101.5 106.5 111.5 117 123 131 138.5 STITCHING IN THE DITCH - from the 99 101.5 104 106.5 111.5 117 123 128.5 136 143.5 MACHINE - a long stitch length to right side, stitching directly into the hiP secure fabric in place before stitching. channel created by a previously sewn seam. This catches the facing or on NOTCHES - small marks on the pattern the inside of the garment. that help you line up seams. TASSEL - trim made from thread to fabriC PRESS - using an iron, press each seam decorate clothes and accessories. metres after stitching to give a professional finish. - decorative stitching on the 115cm 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 right side of the garment. 140cm 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 PIVOT - stopping your machine to reposition the foot while stitching around TRIM - cutting down the raw edge of the a curve or angle. fabric by a small amount. yards 45” 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 RIGHT SIDE/ WRONG SIDE - the right UNDERSTITCH - stitching on the inside 55” 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 side is the printed side of the fabric; the of a garment close to the seam line to wrong side is the back of the fabric. hold the fabric in place, for example a facing. * you will also need 3.2m of shop bought bias tape or a fabric piece measuring 70cm wide by 60cm long to make handmade bias tape

19-20 join the tribe share your makes

hello sailor top sizes 6 - 24 #tribepatterns #hellosailortop

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© The Fold Line 2018. All rights reserved. Photos, text, layout and illustrations in this booklet are copyright of The Fold Line. The sewing pattern and booklet were designed by The Fold Line. DESIGNED in the UK. For personal home use only. No part of this booklet or sewing pattern may be reproduced, sold or given away for free.