WAKHAN & the AFGHAN PAMIR
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WAKHANIN &THE the FOOTSTEPS AFGHAN OF MARCO PAMIR POLO 68ºE 70ºE 72ºE 74ºE Wakhan & the Afghan Pamir Dushanbe WAKHAN FACTS UZBEKISTAN 38ºN TAJIKISTAN COUNTRY Afghanistan Snowcapped 7000m Khorog PROVINCE Hindukush peaks beckon Badakhshan true mountain lovers Faizabad Kyrgyz nomads in the heart Khandud DISTRICT of the Afghan Pamir preserve Sarhad-e Broghil Qila-e Panja Wakhan HIGHLIGHTS a vanishing way of life Taluqan Kunduz see route map Rare and spectacular Ishkashim NEAREST INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT wildlife roam isolated high Qazideh elevation valleys Noshaq Kabul 7492m Sparkling mountain lakes of NEAREST DOMESTIC AIRPORT Zorkol and Chaqmaqtin feed S H Central Asia’s mighty Oxus River U Faizabad K 36ºN Ancient Silk Road caravan U history inscribed in petroglyphs Gilgit GATEWAY TOWN Chitral PAKISTAN showcases the archeology Ishkashim UZBEKIST KAZAKHSTAN TURKMENIST DISTRICT HEADQUARTERS Khandud A KYRGYZSTAN N A MAIN VILLAGES N TAJIKISKISKIKISSTAN Qazideh, Qila-e Panja, CHINA IRAN Goz Khun, Sarhad-e Broghil STAN POPULATION approximately 12,000 “We were glad to seek shelter from N Jalalabad PAKISTAN in 1500 households the keen air of these breezy Kabul NEPAL altitudes in the felt tents of the INDIA LANGUAGES Peshawar Kyrgyz of the Afghan Pamir.” Persian, Wakhi and Kyrgyz 34ºN KHYBER Sir Aurel Stein 0 100 200 300 Kilometres PASS Islamabad 0 20 40 60 80 100 200 Miles © 2006 Mareile Paley DISCOVERING WAKHAN WAKHAN IS A LAND SO REMOTE THAT FEW OUTSIDERS HAVE EVER VENTURED THERE. YET THROUGH WAKHAN “In the middle of the Pamir valley is FLOWED A VITAL BRANCH OF THE GRAND TRANS-ASIAN ARTERY KNOWN AS THE SILK ROAD, LINKING EAST TO WEST. a great dragon lake, clean and pure as a PETROGLYPHS DEPICTING WARRIORS, HUNTING SCENES, CARAVANS AND BUDDHIST HISTORY, ALONG WITH THE mirror; the colour of the lake is OCCASIONAL RABOT OR TRAVELLERS’ SHELTER, BEAR SILENT WITNESS TO THE TRACKS OF TRADITION, AND OFFER dark blue and the taste of THE VISITOR A GLIMPSE INTO THE RICH HERITAGE OF PILGRIMS, CARAVANS AND ARMIES THAT ONCE TRAVERSED the water sweet and soft.” Hsuan Tsang THIS CLASSIC ROUTE. The great explorers who visited Wakhan are still a THE AFGHAN PAMIR THE LAND THE MOTHER RIVER source of inspiration and wonder for today’s intrepid travellers – Hsuan Tsang, the 7th century Chinese monk Pamir are unique U-shaped, high-elevation mountain Afghanistan’s Wakhan District is a narrow strip of land with Pakistan, has 38 summits higher than 7000m, including The Amu Darya or “Mother River” is the Persian name who went in search of Buddhist teachings; Marco Polo, valleys distinctive to Central Asia, where there are more separating Tajikistan and Pakistan that juts eastward some Afghanistan’s highest peak Noshaq (7492m). Permanent for the river that classical Greek geographers called the who in the 13th century journeyed overland to China; than half a dozen named pamir. Renowned as summer 350km to meet the China border. Wakhan District has two snow blankets Wakhan’s highest peaks. The high, open valleys Oxus. It forms much of Afghanistan’s northern border Mirza Muhammad Haidar, who chronicled the Moghul grazing grounds for their abundant grass and water, distinct parts – the Wakhan Corridor and the Afghan Pamir. between these three mountain ranges form the Afghan Pamir, with Tajikistan and Uzbekistan and courses more than Empire in the 16th century; Lieutenant John Wood and these vast plateaus are covered by snow six months All of Wakhan lies at elevations higher than 2000m and the known in Persian as the Bam-e Dunya, or the “roof of the 2400km across Central Asia to the Aral Sea. The Amu Lord Curzon, Englishmen who searched for the source of of the year. Afghan Pamir lies above 3500m. world,” which is home to Kyrgyz nomads. Darya, one of Afghanistan’s four major river systems, the Oxus River in the 19th century; Sir Aurel Stein, the has its source in the icy heights of the Pamir Mountains 20th century British archeologist who sought to unravel The Afghan Pamir include two such grasslands at the The Wakhan Corridor is a deep valley formed by the Panj River High passes called kotal transect the mountain ranges and at the head of Wakhan’s Wakhjir Valley. Joined by the the Buddhist history of Innermost Asia; and mountaineer eastern end of Wakhan – the Big Pamir and the Little that courses between the 7000m peaks of the Hindukush to were used by armies and ancient trade caravans. In the stream coming from Chaqmaqtin Lake south of Bozai H.W. Tilman who sought unknown routes across the Pamir, which are better known by their Persian names. the south and the lofty mountains of Tajikistan to the north. Afghan Pamir, passes, although at high elevation, are relatively Gumbaz, it becomes the Wakhan River, which is met mountain ranges. The Big Pamir or Great Pamir is called Pamir Kalan Along the south bank of the Panj River and its upper tributary, easy for people to cross. The passes across the more rugged at Qila-e Panja by the Pamir River flowing from Zorkol. and Pamir-e-Buzurg (kalan and buzurg both mean the Wakhan River, are numerous Wakhi villages. The villages Hindukush are more difficult. The key Hindukush passes are: Downstream of Qila-e Panja, the river is called the Snowcapped peaks soar majestically above villages ‘great’ or ‘large’). The Little Pamir is called Pamir Khurd between Ishkashim and Qila-e Panja are termed Lower Broghil Pass (3882m) and Darwaza Pass (4288m) to Chitral; Ab-e Panja (Panj River) and flows through a deep gorge and glaciers descend precipitously to feed raging rivers and Pamir-e-Kochak (khurd and kochak both mean Wakhan. More than 5000m of vertical relief commands the Khodarg Werth (or Khora Bort Pass) to Ishkoman; and Irshad forming the border between Afghanistan’s Badakhshan in this land of immense scale, beauty and contrast. On ‘little’ or ‘small’). southern horizon of Lower Wakhan, where the valley is as Uween (4979m) and Dilisang Pass (5290m) to Gojal. Province and Tajikistan. Finally, east of Kunduz, it’s joined the Afghan Pamir, the unimaginably wide open spaces broad as 2km. The villages in Upper Wakhan between Qila-e by Tajikistan’s Vaksh River and becomes the Amu Darya seem to extend forever. Here you’re more likely to bump All of Wakhan is a semi-arid zone. In the Wakhan Corridor, The 60km long Big Pamir nestles between the Southern Panja and Sarhad-e Broghil lie along the more narrow banks for the remainder of its course across Central Asia. into a big-horned sheep or a brown bear than another Alichur Range to the north and the Wakhan Range to of the Wakhan River, which opens to a dramatic river basin agriculture is only possible through irrigation, fed by human being. the south. The Little Pamir, at 100km long and 10km 3km wide at Sarhad-e Broghil. Streams fed by precipitous meltwater in the streams descending from the mountains. wide, is actually larger in area than the Big Pamir, yet Apart from occasional clusters of shrubs or willow, birch and Yet Wakhan is also home to hardy mountain people Hindukush glaciers cut across the Wakhan Corridor and flow The Oxus is a river whose headwaters, the more rugged Big Pamir has a higher elevation and other small trees, the landscape is largely barren of vegetation. – Wakhi farmers and herders, who greet guests with into the main river. “tell of forgotten peoples and secrets of so earns its name. The proper name ‘Pamirs’ typically Above 3500m, the valleys widen onto the expansive Afghan unmatched hospitality – a warm smile, a cup of tea and a unknown lands, and are believed to have refers to the Central Asian mountain range that extends Three mountain ranges – the Hindukush, Karakoram and Pamir with its lush seasonal meadows, peaty soil, and vivid bowl of yogurt – and the last remaining Kyrgyz nomads, rocked the cradle of our race.” from Tajikistan into Afghanistan and China. Pamir – converge in Wakhan to form what is called the blue lakes. whose welcoming yurts dot the fertile grasslands of the Lord Curzon Pamir Knot. The Hindukush Range, which forms the border Afghan Pamir. www.wakhan.org CULTURAL CONSIDERATIONS WAKHAN ACTIVITIES THE RESPECTFUL TOURIST: A JOURNEY THROUGH WAKHAN IS THE VERY ESSENCE OF ADVENTURE TRAVEL. AROUND EVERY TURN IN THE ROAD behaves conservatively as a show of respect for the local culture is humble and grateful when accepting offers of local food while OR TRAIL ARE TANTALIZING MOUNTAINS, UNKNOWN WILDERNESS, AND FASCINATING VILLAGES AND NOMAD not taking advantage of generous hospitality, and pays for food CAMPS. WITH EVERY STEP DEEPER INTO THE MOUNTAINS, YOU DISCOVER A WHOLE NEW WORLD OF ADVENTURE. and accommodation wears loose, long-sleeved, unrevealing shirts, and full-length WALK ALONG THE ROAD, WANDER THROUGH VILLAGES, EXPLORE THE INVITING MOUNTAIN PASSES. TRAVEL WITH pants that cover the ankles THE GRACIOUS AND HOSPITABLE PEOPLE WHO LIVE HERE, SHARING THEIR HARDIHOOD. EXPERIENCING THESE wearing a hat or scarf is optional for women travelling through THE RESPECTFUL TOURIST: Wakhi and Kyrgyz areas, but is advisable elsewhere in Badakhshan is law abiding and obtains necessary permission(s) for the route MOUNTAINS FIRST-HAND IS INCOMPARABLE AND UNFORGETTABLE. doesn’t drink alcohol in public view respects the sovereignty of international borders and obtains all refrains from all public displays of affection required permission for cross-border routes Trekking, by far the most popular activity in Wakhan, The unique attractions for mountaineering in contributes to the local economy by patronizing local businesses, takes responsibility for one’s actions and avoids foolhardy decisions is traditionally a multi-day overland journey on foot involv- Wakhan are several easily accessible 7000m peaks of the THE WEATHER hiring porters and buying local products, which encourages local ing the support of a trek crew who transport your per- Hindukush, including Afghanistan’s highest peak Noshaq Wakhan is at its best during the short summer, which people to conserve their natural resource base sonal belongings and gear such as tents, food and cooking (7492m), and numerous peaks higher than 6000m await- brown bear (Ursus arctos) make their home, particularly in lasts from late June to mid-September.