Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria

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Includes  Why Go? Bari...... 722 The Italian boot’s heel (Puglia), instep (Basilicata) and toe Isole Tremiti. . . . . 734 (Calabria) are where the ‘Mezzogiorno’ (southern Italy) Valle d’Itria . . . . . 736 shows all its throbbing intensity. Long stereotyped as the Salento...... 743 poorer, more passionate cousins of Italy’s sophisticated northerners, these regions are finally being appreciated for Matera...... 757 their true richness. You will see washing on weather-worn Venosa...... 766 balconies, scooters speeding down medieval alleys and ancient towns crumbling under Mediterranean suns. But look past the pasta-advert stereotypes and you’ll find things alto- gether more complex and wonderful; gritty, unsentimental Best Places cities with pedigrees stretching back thousands of years; to Eat dramatically broken coastlines that have harboured fisher- ¨¨Dedalo (p763) folk and pirates for millennia; and above all, proud and gen- erous people, eager to share these delights with you. ¨¨Al Trabucco da Mimì Puglia is defined by its coast, the longest in Italy; little (p734) Basilicata touches two seas, but is known for forests and ¨¨Trattoria Il Rifugio della mountains; while Calabria, last stop before Sicily, is a hodge- Buona Stella (p747) podge of Greek, Latin, African and Norman influences. ¨¨Trattoria Terra Madre (p737) When to Go ¨¨Paglionico Vini e Cucina Bari (p724) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm ¨¨La Cantina del Macellaio 30/86 8/200 (p776) 20/68 6/150

10/50 4/100

Best Places 0/32 2/50 to Sleep -10/14 0 ¨¨Hotel Il Belvedere (p761) J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨¨Locanda delle Donne Monache (p767) Apr–Jun Spring Jul & Aug Summer Sep & Oct Crowds wildflowers are is beach weather have thinned, the ¨¨Palazzo Rollo (p746) blooming: perfect and festivals weather is mild, ¨¨Relais Parallelo 41 (p729) for hiking in the blossom in towns and mushrooms Pollino National such as Lecce and are emerging in ¨¨Il Frantoio (p740) Park. Matera. Sila National Park.

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alabria Basilicata & Calabria Highlights I

Puglia, Basilicata & C

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