Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria Includes ¨ Why Go? Bari ................722 The Italian boot’s heel (Puglia), instep (Basilicata) and toe Isole Tremiti .........734 (Calabria) are where the ‘Mezzogiorno’ (southern Italy) Valle d’Itria .........736 shows all its throbbing intensity. Long stereotyped as the Salento .............743 poorer, more passionate cousins of Italy’s sophisticated northerners, these regions are finally being appreciated for Matera .............757 their true richness. You will see washing on weather-worn Venosa .............766 balconies, scooters speeding down medieval alleys and an- cient towns crumbling under Mediterranean suns. But look past the pasta-advert stereotypes and you’ll find things alto- gether more complex and wonderful; gritty, unsentimental Best Places cities with pedigrees stretching back thousands of years; to Eat dramatically broken coastlines that have harboured fisher- ¨ Dedalo (p763) folk and pirates for millennia; and above all, proud and gen- erous people, eager to share these delights with you. ¨ Al Trabucco da Mimì Puglia is defined by its coast, the longest in Italy; little (p734) Basilicata touches two seas, but is known for forests and ¨ Trattoria Il Rifugio della mountains; while Calabria, last stop before Sicily, is a hodge- Buona Stella (p747) podge of Greek, Latin, African and Norman influences. ¨ Trattoria Terra Madre (p737) When to Go ¨ Paglionico Vini e Cucina Bari (p724) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm ¨ La Cantina del Macellaio 30/86 8/200 (p776) 20/68 6/150 10/50 4/100 Best Places 0/32 2/50 to Sleep -10/14 0 ¨ Hotel Il Belvedere (p761) J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨ Locanda delle Donne Monache (p767) Apr–Jun Spring Jul & Aug Summer Sep & Oct Crowds wildflowers are is beach weather have thinned, the ¨ Palazzo Rollo (p746) blooming: perfect and festivals weather is mild, ¨ Relais Parallelo 41 (p729) for hiking in the blossom in towns and mushrooms Pollino National such as Lecce and are emerging in ¨ Il Frantoio (p740) Park. Matera. Sila National Park. R 720 RIA RIA RIA RIA B B B ALA ALA ALA C C C & & & BASILICATA BASILICATA BASILICATA PUGLIA, PUGLIA, PUGLIA, hts G hli G I H A I R B A L CA & A T A silic BA Isole Tremiti # 0 100 km e0 60 miles Puglia, Croatia Peschici #\ D Basilicata MontenegroD #4 Vieste & Calabria Promontorio del Gargano Highlights /· #÷ Foresta Umbra A14 Parco Nazionale ÷# 1 Matera (p757) del Gargano \# Marvelling at the #\ Monte MOLISE San Giovanni Sant'Angelo Adriatic Sea contrast between Rotondo miserable caves and Golfo di soaring cathedrals in Manfredonia this ancient city. Foggia #] 2 Lecce (p743) Learning to love the #\Trani flowery excesses of /·A14 the city’s baroque Bari ^# architecture. /·A16 Polignano Albania V# a Mare D 3 Valle d’Itria #\ Castel Grotte di (p736) Eating del Monte the best of the PUGLIA Castellana #\ #æ Valle d'Itria Mediterranean diet in R CAMPANIA Venosa 3 Alberobello #\ # Cisternino the valley’s gorgeous #\ #\ Locorotondo #\Ostuni 0¸ hilltowns. #\ SS16 /·A14 Martina Monte #]Brindisi 4 Vieste (p728) RCervialto Franca (1808m) Matera ##]1 Searching for early- /· /· D morning photo ops R Potenza ^# SS7 Br SS7 ad #\ Oria Greece /· an around the cream- A2 o #] Castelmezzano #\ Taranto /·SS7 R #\ coloured lanes of this le R Monte Alburno Pietrapertosa #2#] Lecce e Tarantine divine coastal town. S (1742m) BASILICATA #\ Murge Parco Nazionale Metaponto 0¸SS16 5 Maratea (p767) Golfo di del Cilento e Vallo di Diano Galatina Driving with the Salerno #÷ Grumentum #\ Aliano #\ Otranto #8#\ Parco Nazionale del ä# Agri top down and the R Monte nni Cilento e Vallo di Diano Si Golfo di sea in your nostrils Cervati ÷# Parco Nazionale SALENTO (1900m) Dell'appennino Taranto Gallipoli#\ around an impossibly Lucano #\ 0¸S430 Castro 0¸SS106 /·A2 Maratea ##\5 #\ Tortora R #\ #\ R #÷ #\.