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Vol 2 No 5 Yorkshire Ramblers' Club Journal

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Vol 2 No 5 Yorkshire Ramblers' Club Journal Comnr'tunications sl"rorrlcl l:r: arldressccl to the Editor, Bishophill Hottse, York VOL. TI. I1)0ii. No. it 'l'HH YORKSHIITH RAruISLHRSO (,t .uli JmKjffiNAL- .r I l\ "l'lr,I$TS" PA(]II Srn \4r. &{. Coxwalr I !'nntr Ror:rn,nIrl r3, Prncv Ltixn OT 24 a.. A Sit-nsr: IrtsMlrstt z8 G" T. I,,OWIJ J) S, W. Cur"r'niss 48 ';r\ -1" (r't ,.1, ( t:.n Ciaphar.n ... ,\. G nEnr+ Jlr l-ngD Bo'rl.nt{ILL 64 F'np:n IJorinnlll 67 ol. I cr i 68 " 69 69 7o 7r lrr \1, IJ /5 7e 83 Itlt:r'trl ll,,,,l 94 I L t.. t"J s'T m A"r t () N s, , t i [4rrrlrt:tl:'r lt l'.rll' I ( L,"' ,,' .i r'',, ., ' , ,i;.'1t l,J'. .) Iioltt'rill'', ('lttttl,, 1., l' ll. Iltrtley Cla,gs, Eskclale. Derweutwater, ,r\lttrrr l','l ( /,,',' ," ,',,t;:',' ,;i\ .:,t,,,i' 1't'tut,) Slanting Gully, I-,liwecir:1" ".' I -sr:-Hl*{ I i lf; [,r t, ; .1.-) F,hTr, Puhlished by thc Yot'kshlt','., [tmrmhlarr' &]f,nrb, t S, Fark Strget, Leed$i, Lcx t)oI, : 'l'. l'' l,S I I l'; li" PRIGE TWO $HILLINGS, NET" PEARSON CT DENHAMI gealers in ?6otograp6ie flpparatus only. ESTABLISHED IBTJ. SPECIATITIES FOR TRAVETLERS, RAMBLERS AND CLIMBERS, \Dcno = Cbc Kodalq ADAPTABLE FOR PLATES. Forcmost among$t Hand Cameras for Plates is the " LOII)IS," {6 I8s, to {'II, according to the lens. Price List Free. 2I, NEW STATION STREET, LEEDS. .IAMES S. cARTER, ALPINE BOOTMAKER and TOURISTS' OUTFITTER, /6 {oufi frIo{ton {neet 9ondon, W ls made of the best grained cow-hide -the strongest leather for rough work, and best adapted for rock climbing. Has been worn and commended during the last thirty-six years by numberless mountain climbers in every part of the gtobe. It is Mort Comfortable, Most l)urable, Most ,Economical, and. is oft'ered with ovcry .,rrlirtcnoe ils a Matchless Mountain Boot. $p__LADTES' ALPTNE BOOT, 2ll- czi -- g ca- ef,, ca^-F"-'!a -,- - € c)- v>' \rFt>' FS lco E clt gs aa hr-sL)- oq}-.l S Ss.== FgF FssF J lllr. C. nsber Unuin's lleu Bool$. ltll{lt Lll:t: lN wll.D wAl-Es. lf v I, A. \\'nt,t'ot,r,; llttNtt. With 60 illustyotiorts from photographs by ( )t tv I t{ t i. l'ttit,:. t.trge 0r0wn 8u0., cloth, 7s, 6d. " ,\ t'illtt;rltlr tilllrrlrlllt'ltl to lltcl orttitholtlgical library of Wales." " I lle 1,,,,,1, tr ttt,li:1,r'ttsirlrlc to tltc sportsmaD arl.l naturalist, and to all lovers of bird life.t' I' t, ltu,t u',t /t'lt I iltI/. " A,1,'lrglrllrrl lr,r,rk." l'.','/to, THE ., BRIGHTWEN'' SERIES. I llnst,rttte d,. Crown 8u0., cloth, 2s, eA,cJx. WII,II NA'I'URE WON BY KINDNESS. frl()ITI] AIiOU'T WILD NATURE. INTNA'I'I:s 0F MY HOUSE AND CARDEN. ( II,ITN I'SI J5 INTO PLANT-LIFE. UNIFORM WITH THE ABOVE: IN IIIITI)I.AND WITH FIELD.CLASS AND CAMERA. I I y ( ) t,r v ri n (;. l)I KE. I4lith Frontislicce and, laer 80 photographs of li t t'ltsh liirds. Chaap Re-issue. Crown 8u0., clotlt,, 2s. 'T'R[II: 'I'AI,I]5 OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE FOR NON= CI,IMITIJRS, YOUNC AND OLD. Itl' N'l n;. r\ rrnuriy Lu I3LoNo (Mrs. Melx). With nll?nerlus Illustrations rtild l'' ronlisl,'i11:s. 7'hird, Edition. Dcmy 8u0., cloth, Ios. 6d. net. lrRlfill'l'l)AYs IN MERRIE ENCLAND. ('. lf -y \',\N I )otttiN H o N EYMAI.I. Crown Buo ., cloth, 6s. IIV M(X)R AND FELL. I ty I I r r,r,r\v r,:r,r, SurclrrrFE . Crou)?c, 8u0., cloth,, 6s. 'T'IIR0II(III CANADA IN HARVEST TIME: A Study of Life nnd l.nbour in the Colden West. lly.f ,rmr,,s l,urusr)liN. l;ully Illustrated and with Mo!. Large clown .'i1r11., ,1,'llt gill, (r.s. In(XlR..i, C ltAOS, AND CAVES OF THE HICH PEAK, and I ho Nelgltltourhootl. I I l' l'. tt N r, :,'r n. I il x r,:n, M. A . Illustyated, a,ith abottt 40 striking I'h,,l,,s,rtf,lts tnd J AI nfs,' l)uny 8u0., cloth gilt, 6s. net, l,ondon: 'l'. fI$HER UNWIN, Paternoster Square, THE ) orlcsDl re Ramblers' Club J ourn al Vor.. I I. r 903. Nu. 5. THE MORTERATSCH SATTFL. Ertracts Jronz a Diary uritten in t876., Bv Srn Me,nrru Conwev, PnnsrouNr oF TnE Ar,prxp Cr.us. 'you ( You irafernal noount.ains ! I should, like to haae yolled, out flat and' sown aith fotatoes." (Exclamation heard on Mont Blanc.) FIRST ATTEMPT. ON Saturday, August 5th, t876, I started out to cross the pass lying between the Piz Bernina and Piz Morteratsch. Att tfre guides in Pontresina agreed that this had never been passed, but it afterwards appeared that a Mr. Robinson, in t 868, had crossed the ridge with Jenni and Fleury as guides. I asked Fleury about it, and he said that they started from the Boval Hut and took to the rocks almost immediate- ly, keeping to them the whole way. In fifteen hours hard climbing they reached a point on the ridge between the two peaks. This point appears to have been some- where above the pass, and here they erected a stone man and left their names in a bottle. I never saw the stone ma-n, so they cannot really have crossed the saddle itself, though doubtless they made a pass between the two peaks. They were obliged to sleep out on the rocks, and did not reach Pontresina till the next day. Their route and mine were different throughout, ancl the point of crossing rn'as not the same. I was alone, with Johann Grossas myguide. Our planwas first to reach thc saddle from the Roseg Glacier, then to turn south along the ar€te of the Piz Bernina, and try to reach EAS'| SIDE OF MORTER.\TSCH SATTEL, the lower white summit which at that time had never been ascended, FROM THI] DIAVOLEZZA PASS. and from that to try and get to the highest point .J z l/-/te I'or/tshire Ramblers' Club /ournal. The Morteratsch Sattel. .t This course was actually taken by Messrs. oI the mountain. steps and left them for me to enlarge, so that thcy shoultl Middlemore and Cordier with two Oberland guides on the last till our return. Up to this point we had cut aborrt following Tuesday. They avoided the rocks which turned steps. \Me were now on the left side of the couloir, back, thus reached the white peak over long 4oo us and the and just under the rocky precipices of the Bernina. Wc snow They named Monte Rosso da Tschierva. ardte. it directed our way straight at the rocks to the south of the They say, however, that to pass from the white to the pass, and about 5oo feet above us. Rather more than two highest rocky summit is perfectly impossible.* hours' hard work brought us up to these, the slope being from Pontresina about 2.3o in the morning, We started all the way so steep that the little pieces of ice we loosened walked Roseg and past the chAlets of along the Valley, in making the steps flew down it and over the ice wall Miscauna Our way lay by the side of the eastern marginal far below us. When we reached these rocks we were on moraine of the glacier, which we did not cross till we found a level with the top of the pass, and had come up 8oo feet ourselves just below the little ice-fall of the glacier between of ice- slope, over the whole of which we had cut steps. Piz Morteratsch and Piz Tschierva. Before entering on The rocks barely rose out of the srrrface of the ice-slope, the ice we had our breakfast, and scanned the long broad and afforded neither footing nor anything to hoid by. They couloir which leads the saddle we wished to reach. to were very steep and in many cases were glazed with ice. The upper part of this Gross pronounced to bc purc icc, We were obliged to cut our \\-ay over slopes of black ice, and crossing the bottorn of thc <--ouloir and and he advised our in and out amongst these for about roo feet higher, but keeping up the right side the slopc; I r,vas for making of as matters grew worse rather than better Gross said he sl<irting tlrc-' edge of our way to the left side and lry could go no further. He had already made over a thousand the rocks. He stuck to his opinion, Irowr:vcr, and had to I steps, and it seemed as though several hundred more would give would have way. Events shon'ccl that rrtl' routc be required before we could get on the snow ar€te, along better. been the which the way to our white peak was clear. We accordingly took the glacier irt tlrr: loot o[ rilther a iong ice- We to turned to descend in the direction of the saddle. This slowly maclc our wiry, r:utting every step fall,tupwhichwe was no joke. Cutting up a slope of black ice is bad enough, we not yet trcar the right, but kept took. We did lo but cutting down is far lvorse.
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