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EAST COAST | Great Escapes VB The Stuart-style mansion at Old c nd Westbury Gardens was once home to A sl John S. Phipps, and has appeared in films i ong such as North by Northwest. l rge, courtesy: La es am J Style and Grace Discovering the historic grandeur of Long Island’s Gold Coast | By Iyna Bort Caruso 168 July 2007 AlAskA Airlines MAgAzine feel them more than I hear them—the the public, allowing folks like me to left exactly as it was when its owners lived earth-pounding vibrations of eight wander gilded hallways and stroll spec- here, right down to their personal photo- Iponies thundering across the field at 40 tacular gardens for a taste of life once graphs. Among these is a photo of Charles miles an hour. It’s polo season on Long reserved for the privileged few. Lindbergh—Guggenheim was a champion Island, and they say it takes hot blood and The exclusive enclave of Sands Point is of aviation, and Lindbergh was a regular a cool head to play this sport. But sitting said to be the model for West Egg in The visitor. The legendary pilot resided in the here at Bethpage State Park, inhaling a Great Gatsby. Located at the northernmost house in 1927 while documenting his pungent blend of dirt and horse, I realize it tip of the Cow Neck Peninsula, Sands Point triumphant trans-Atlantic flight in a book takes even more. Polo demands the concentration of a golf pro, the fast hands of an NHLer and the steel nerves of a Formula One racer. Sundays from mid-May through October, these polo matches are free to the public. I love coming here, not just for the sport of it but for its link to the Gold Coast Era, an opulent period between the wars when Long Island was America’s polo capital. One of the most celebrated horsemen was a player by the name of Tommy Hitchcock, considered the Babe Ruth of polo. Hitchcock is widely consid- ered to be the model for Tom Buchanan in F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby. Today’s family-friendly crowd is more Macy’s than Tiffany, but the allure of the Old Westbury Gardens features Gatsby Age remains. 200 acres of verdant gardens The Gold Coast is a 20-mile-long strip and immaculate landscaping. along the northern shore of Nassau County James Large, courtesy: long islAnd cVB where it meets Long Island Sound. With is one of the wealthiest villages in all of that became the best-seller “We.” Lind- the bustle of New York City to the west and New York. Among the historic estates, two bergh’s Ford station wagon typically sits in the beaches of the Hamptons to the east, are part of the county-run Sands Point the courtyard. this part of the North Shore of Long Island Preserve. One home is Hempstead House, A short drive from Sands Point is the has long been known for its elegance and built in the style of an English country historic village of Roslyn Harbor, a town style. The area’s proximity to Manhattan, manor. Once the home of Daniel and that is postcard-pretty thanks to architec- less than an hour’s drive away, was what Florence Guggenheim, Hempstead House ture that dates back to Colonial times. A made it attractive as a summer retreat for is open only for special events. The other Georgian Revival mansion here now houses families such as the Vanderbilts, Wool- home is Falaise, which is available for the Nassau County Museum of Art. It’s not worths and Guggenheims. This concentra- guided tours from May through October. easy to operate an art museum in the tion of wealth awed Fitzgerald, who set his Falaise was completed in 1924, but it shadow of Manhattan, but this jewel makes famous Jazz Age novel in fictional hamlets resembles a 13th century Norman manor, up in intimacy what it lacks in scale. The modeled on Gold Coast communities. with a protected cobblestone courtyard museum is home to works by 19th and 20th The legacy of the era is visible in its and dramatic stone columns. The theme of century artists such as Auguste Rodin and impressive collection of estates that centuries past is reflected in its collection Robert Rauschenberg, and features a 145- remain. Some are in private hands, while of medieval and Renaissance art. acre outdoor sculpture garden, one of the others have been reappointed for utilitar- Despite its lavishness, I connect with largest plein air art collections on the East ian purposes. The Chrysler Mansion, for the home, which was once occupied by Coast. Industrialist Henry Clay Frick, co- instance, is now part of the United States Harry F. Guggenheim and each of his founder of U.S. Steel, purchased the Merchant Marine Academy in Kings Point. three wives. Other Gold Coast residences mansion in 1919 as a wedding gift for his More than a half-dozen others are open to feel more like museums, but Falaise was son, Childs. Just before Childs’ death in the AlAskA Airlines MAgAzine July 2007 169 EAST COAST | Great Escapes The Nassau County Museum of Art of Art occupies a Georgian Revival mansion in M the historic village of Roslyn Harbor. ounty Museu c u A ss Na ipper, courtesy: l ert B o r 1960s, Nassau County bought the estate in places such as Old Westbury Gardens. When I’m driving along the North and gifted it to the community. The first time I visited Old Westbury Shore, meandering curves on back roads For all of the Gold Coast’s rich history, Gardens, it seemed oddly familiar. It turns force me to slow down—as do the caution- such glamour is not confined to the past— out that this majestic house has appeared ary horse-crossing signs—but it’s not a indeed, the North Shore remains a well- in many movies, including North by chore. It gives me more time to admire the heeled area. For proof, drive down the Northwest, Arthur and, more recently, scenery. On streets that radiate out from main artery of Northern Boulevard— Hitch. The drive under a long canopy of little town centers, homes become manors, believed to be the same route George beech and linden trees gives me that blue- plots become estates and vinyl fences Washington took when he traveled to Long blooded feeling. become wrought-iron gates. Island in 1776—to the Americana Manhas- The home is the Stuart-style mansion of Sagamore Hill, home of Theodore set shopping center. Sunlight reflects off John S. Phipps, whose father was a friend Roosevelt, isn’t technically a Gold Coast the hood ornaments of the Bentleys, and business partner of steel tycoon estate, but it’s a don’t-miss stop on the Jaguars and Mercedes that fill the parking Andrew Carnegie. During World War II, route. Native Long Islanders such as I lot. The Americana Manhasset is the the family invited 30 English children— usually get their first look at the place on region’s haute couture capital—an East some of them family members—to live school field trips. The Victorian home in Coast answer to Rodeo Drive, with more here for the war’s duration. Surrounding Oyster Bay is operated under the auspices than 45 shops ranging from Hermès to this showplace are 200 meticulously of the National Park Service, and park Prada to Dolce & Gabbana. maintained acres that draw throngs of rangers give escorted tours. Still, 21st century prosperity is no green-thumbed enthusiasts to admire the A native of New York City, Roosevelt match for the tycoon lifestyles that reigned exotic species and historic blooms. settled on this land to escape the urban AlAskA Airlines MAgAzine July 2007 171 172 July 2007 AlAskA Airlines MAgAzine Once home to Harry F. Guggenheim, Falaise is designed in the style of a 13th century Norman manor. VB c nd A sl i ong l rks / Pa ounty c u A ss Na courtesy: environment. He spent most of his life captured black bear cub inspired the here with his wife, Edith, and their creation of the Teddy bear—many of which, children, except for absences dictated by of course, are available in the gift shop. his public career—first as governor of New Roosevelt entered the White House York and then as the 26th president. after William McKinley was assassinated The home is filled with “trophies” of in 1901. He was the first American to Roosevelt’s hunting expeditions. Mounted receive the Nobel Peace Prize, an honor heads stare back at me from virtually every bestowed for brokering an end to the room. Bearskin rugs are everywhere. I Russo-Japanese War. Negotiations began never quite realized you could turn a within these very walls. rhino’s foot into an inkwell or an elephant’s Just a few miles south is Chelsea, one of foot into a trash can, but it’s all here in this the area’s lesser-known mansions. The 40- taxidermy menagerie. Paradoxically, TR room whitewashed residence is a mix of was a great conservationist and preserva- French, English and Chinese influences tionist. His famous refusal to kill a with some period Art Deco touches. It AlAskA Airlines MAgAzine July 2007 173 lodging Garden City Hotel 45 Seventh St., Garden City 516-747-3000 www.gardencityhotel.com George Washington might not have slept here, but Charles Lindbergh, John F. Kennedy and Mick Jagger did. A 2002 renovation of this 280-room property made one of Long Island’s finest and most historic hotels even better.

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