Landscape Character Assessment of the Coast Preface / Users Guide CONTENTS

Preface PREFACE Executive Summary

Landscape Framework This document was commissioned by SAIL (Schéma With additional advice particularly from: d’Aménagement Intègre du Littoral) and Essex County Ray Brewer - Essex County Council Part One. Landscape Council. It aims to collate current information about the Nigel Brown - Essex County Council Character Types landscape character of the Essex coast in a structure Terry Coehlo - Essex County Council Part Two. Landscape designed to help inform future planning decisions. The Lynn Dyson-Bruce - Essex County Council Character Areas study involved consultation and gathering of existing data Debbie Knopp - Essex County Council and information and we appreciate the time and advice Peter Spurrier - Essex County Council Bibliography given by many individuals within Essex County Council. and Oliver Ishmael and Dennis Bauszus in GIS Consultees Whilst every effort has been made to ensure that the report Photographs by Catherine Bailey, Mary McHugh and Appendices is factually accurate, its contents, opinions, conclusions and Almudena Quiralte. recommendations are entirely those of the consultant who carried out the study. It is for information purposes only The project team who produced this document was: and to be used as a background technical document. Mary McHugh Almudena Quiralte Catherine Bailey wrote the draft of the Mid-Essex Landscape Character Assessment in 2002. USERS GUIDE

We are grateful for the guidance and advice provided by This document attempts to be partly interactive. On the the steering group: VDPH &'5RP \RX ZLOO ¿QG RWKHU /DQGVFDSH &KDUDFWHU Assessments, which are accessed in certain sections of the Beverley McClean - Essex Estuaries Partnership text. Alex Midlen - Essex Estuaries Partnership Crispin Downs - Essex County Council This will allow the reader to receive relevant paragraphs as Sarah Green - Essex County Council if forming part of this present document, and then also to Martin Wakelin - Essex County Council browse further background information.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

All the links to websites, further information and maps in this document are marked in blue. To navigate through this document we advise you to use the CONTENTS column on the left hand side of the page. You can also navigate through the ‘Bookmarks’ window. October 2005 2 Contents

PREFACE MID ESSEX COAST EXECUTIVE SUMMARY CROUCH ESTUARY AND FOULNESS ARCHIPELAGO LANDSCAPE FRAMEWORK MIXED FARMLANDS GENERAL BACKGROUND PURPOSE AND SCOPE OF MID ESSEX LCA CANEWDON SLOPING CLAYLANDS METHODOLOGY GEOLOGY AND LANDFORM BURNHAM SLOPING CLAYLANDS SOILS COASTLANDS HISTORY AND ARCHAEOLOGY ANCIENT FARMLANDS SETTLEMENT AND LAND-USE DENGIE ANCIENT CLAYLANDS CULTURAL PERCEPTIONS UPPER BLACKWATER ESTUARY ECOLOGY LOWER BLACKWATER ESTUARY STUDY AREA MIXED FARMLANDS PART ONE. LANDSCAPE CHARACTER TYPES ROLLING FARMLANDS UNVEGETATED FORESHORE TOLLESBURY COASTLANDS INTER-TIDAL SALT MARSH NORTH ESSEX COAST DIVERSE COASTAL MARSHLAND UNIFORM COASTAL MARSHLAND CLAYLANDS AND MARSHLANDS URBAN FRINGE MARSHLAND LOWER RIVER TERRACE FARMLANDS LOWER COLNE ESTUARY MIXED MARSHLAND EDGE UPPER COLNE ESTUARY ROLLING CLAY FARMLANDS ENCLOSED VALELANDS VALE TOP FARMLANDS BRIGHTLINGSEA FLAG CREEK ENCLOSED VALLEY-SIDES COASTLANDS PART TWO. LANDSCAPE CHARACTER AREAS HOLLAND COASTLANDS •INTRODUCTION TO THE HISTORIC LANDSCAPE CHARACTERISATION HAMFORD WATER •LANDSCAPE CHARACTER AREAS STOUR ESTUARY SOUTH ESSEX COAST BIBLIOGRAPHY , WENNINGTON & RAINHAM MARSHES CONSULTEES , MUCKING & FOBBING MARSHES APPENDICES CHADWELL AND WEST TILBURY FIELD SURVEY SHEET USED FOR MID-ESSEX LCA WEST CANVEY / SHELLHAVEN CANVEY BENFLEET

3 4 Executive Summary E CONTENTS x Preface e Because of its proximity to London there has been longstanding use of the coastal area of Essex not only for holidays Executive Summary and recreation, but also for industry and military purposes. This seeming contradiction is explained by the remoteness of c Landscape Framework some of its creeks and headlands. u t Part One. Landscape This document aims to collate current information about the landscape character of the Essex coast, to help inform future Character Types planning decisions. i Part Two. Landscape v Character Areas Several Landscape Character Assessment (LCA) studies have been undertaken of the county of Essex. This document, e The Landscape Character Assessment of the Essex Coast, co-ordinates access to those character assessments which have Bibliography been published to date, whether at a regional or local scale. Consultees S However the sections referring to South East Essex and North Essex have been included via links to other assessments Appendices u because this document also includes the publication of the Mid Essex Coast Local Landscape Character Assessment for m WKH¿UVWWLPHDQGWKDWVHFWLRQLVKHUHSUHVHQWHGLQJUHDWHUGHWDLO m The aim is to provide an extended overview from , part of the Thames Gateway, in the south to and a the Stour Estuary bordering the county of Suffolk. It concentrates on those sections which analyse the Essex coast and r provides visual data and links to further information available through Geographical Information Systems (GIS). y The structure of this document aims to allow further LCAs to be incorporated in the future, so that a ‘one-stop’ access to information remains current. Thus a bench-mark from which to base a description of the unique character of the Essex coast has been created and can be revised or amended to remain up to date.

5 General Background L CONTENTS a Preface n Countryside Character Initiative and Landscape Character Assessment Executive Summary d

Landscape Framework s

•General Background c The landscape is what determines the character of the British countryside: it belongs to each and every one of us. Policy a •Purpose and Scope makers, practitioners and special interest groups need techniques to identify what gives a locality its own sense of place, what makes it different from its neighbouring area, and what conditions should be set for any new development and p •Methodology change. e •Geology and Landform “Most of us welcome progressive change, but don’t want to see development running amok. We applaud new woodland to enhance the landscape, but know that planting and management must be sensitive to the locality. F •Soils r •History and We can be excited by bold regeneration for places in need of a lift, but recognise that the new development must work Archaeology a around the best of the old, and not sweep it away.” •Settlement and Richard Wakeford Chief Executive, Countryside Agency m Land-use e •Cultural Perceptions The Countryside Character Initiative came about because it was recognised that there was a need for a new approach w WRODQGVFDSHDVVHVVPHQWZKLFKZRXOGORRNDWWKHZKROHRI(QJODQG¶VFRXQWU\VLGHUDWKHUWKDQMXVWVSHFL¿FGHVLJQDWHG o •Ecology areas - and provide a consistent national framework within which more detailed local landscape assessments would •Study Area sit. r k Part One. Landscape This new approach led to the task of mapping the country into 159 separate, distinctive character areas. The features Character Types WKDW GH¿QH WKH ODQGVFDSH RI HDFK DUHD DUH UHFRUGHG LQ LQGLYLGXDO GHVFULSWLRQV ZKLFK H[SODLQ ZKDW PDNHV RQH DUHD Part Two. Landscape different from another and show how that character has arisen and how it is changing. Character Areas

Bibliography http://www.countryside.gov.uk/LivingLandscapes

Consultees

Appendices

6 Purpose and Scope (of Mid Essex LCA) L CONTENTS a Preface n The Mid Essex Landscape Character Assessment (LCA) was The key aims of the Mid Essex LCA were to: Executive Summary produced in draft form in 2001-2, (hereafter referred to d Landscape Framework as Mid Essex LCA) and, edited and published here, forms • identify and describe the local landscape character types s the core part of this document The Landscape Character and areas of Mid Essex •General Background c Assessment of the Essex Coast. • establish the condition of these character types and a •Purpose and Scope areas and the issues that affect them The area covered by the Mid Essex LCA was broadly • use this assessment as a basis for possible future Heritage p •Methodology equivalent to the existing Essex Coastal Protection Belt Coast status e •Geology and from Jaywick (near Clacton-on-Sea) to Landform (near Southend-on-Sea). There is some overlap with the (The main objectives of the Heritage Coast policy of the old Countryside Commission [now Countryside Agency] was F •Soils 1RUWK(VVH[ 7HQGULQJ/&$ GH¿QLWLRQV to include the conservation, protection and enhancement r •History and The Essex Coastal Protection Belt is a county planning of the natural beauty of the coasts, and their heritage Archaeology a designation that covers undeveloped coastal areas, together features of architectural, historical and archaeological m •Settlement and ZLWKWKHHVWXDULHVDQGULYHUVVXEMHFWWRWLGDOLQÀXHQFHDQG interest) Land-use which protects them from all but essential development. e •Cultural Perceptions The belt broadly follows the 10m AOD contour as its A proposal to grant Heritage Coast status to the Essex w inland limit which itself has a strong relationship with the Coast would be based on the information collated in this o •Ecology underlying geology and soils. The assessment boundary document, The Landscape Character Assessment of the •Study Area extends seawards to the low water mark. Essex Coast. r k Part One. Landscape 7KH0LG(VVH[/&$LVRQHRIWKHVSHFL¿FDFWLRQVWKDWKDV Character Types originated from SAIL (Schéma d’Aménagement Intègre Part Two. Landscape du Littoral), the acronym for a project funded under the Character Areas European Union Interreg 11c programme that consists of

Bibliography strategic work on integrated coastal zone management and local pilot projects. Building on existing initiatives, including Consultees the Blackwater Project, the SAIL Project involves working

Appendices with a range of organisations to develop a regeneration strategy for the rural coast.

List of links to estuarine/coastal projects •www.sailcoast.org/index.shtml

•http://europa.eu.int/comm/regional_policy/interreg3/ inte2/inte2c.htm 7 Methodology (of Mid Essex LCA) L CONTENTS a Preface n The Mid Essex LCA followed the methodology promoted through the Countryside Commission’s Countryside Character Executive Summary Programme and Landscape Assessment Guidelines, CCP423, and supported and updated by the Countryside Agency’s d Landscape Framework Interim Landscape Assessment Guidance 1999. It includes historic and cultural factors, but the emphasis on involvement s of stakeholders was not addressed. •General Background c a •Purpose and Scope The factors used to assess landscape character include: p •Methodology • Physiography: geology, soils, topography, vegetation e •Geology and ‡+XPDQDFWLYLW\ODQGXVHVHWWOHPHQW¿HOGHQFORVXUHODQGVFDSHKLVWRU\ Landform • Aesthetics: form, scale, enclosure, unity, colour, views, cultural perceptions F •Soils r •History and Archaeology a

•Settlement and m Land-use e •Cultural Perceptions w

•Ecology o

•Study Area r k Part One. Landscape Character Types

Part Two. Landscape Character Areas

Bibliography

Consultees

Appendices

8 Geology and Landform L CONTENTS a Preface n Essex has one of the longest Sands and gravels are exposed as a The bulk of the is Executive Summary coastlines of any county in cliff at Cudmore Grove, Mersea whilst shaped from the London Clay, but with d Landscape Framework comprising complex estuary systems, the London Clay forms the spine of a central tract lying inland forming a s extensive salt marsh and intertidal the Island and abuts the marshlands gently rolling or distinctly undulating •General Background c areas of international conservation from Langenhoe to , plain above 20m AOD. A gravel ridge a •Purpose and Scope importance. It still has a small but forming rolling farmlands that extend runs roughly south-west north-east DFWLYH ¿VKLQJ ÀHHW DQG ODUJHO\ GXH around the north east of Tollesbury across the Dengie and this important p •Methodology to its proximity to London, has been to be exposed at the surface again in IHDWXUHZDVDPDMRULQÀXHQFHRQWKH e •Geology and a traditional holiday area for over a a narrow belt south of the town and original settlement pattern. On the Landform century. then around . north coast of Dengie, however, the clay is exposed in a low-lying belt F •Soils The geology of coastal Essex is a over a wide area between r •History and complex array of varying marine, and , narrowing to a thin Archaeology a alluvial and glacial drift sediments that but more undulating wedge south of •Settlement and overly or border the thick deposits of St Lawrence that ends at Bradwell on m Land-use the London Clay and terrace gravels. Sea. e •Cultural Perceptions The clay is part of the older strata of w rocks that form the eastern sector Head deposits, caused by down-slope o •Ecology of the London Basin, a bowl created movement of material in peri-glacial •Study Area from the Cretaceous chalk. This stiff, conditions, are found on the clay in r dark or bluish-grey clay, that shrinks scattered drifts along the north bank k Part One. Landscape and cracks during dry weather, is of the Blackwater and on Dengie. Character Types widespread adjoining the coastal strip West of Tollesbury the clay is overlain Part Two. Landscape and forms, together with the terrace by a belt of freer-draining terrace Character Areas gravels, a gently rolling backdrop deposits.

Bibliography to the distinctive level coastal marshlands at its margins. Consultees

Appendices

9 Geology and Landform L CONTENTS a Preface n Along the banks of the River Crouch In places the junction between these is unmarked by tree, counter-wall, Executive Summary the London Clay creates a more coastal marshlands and the low hills creek or building over most of its d Landscape Framework steeply sloping hummocky landscape is perceived as a gradual transition, 5km length. This open character s extending west of to South as on the marshland at St Osyth, turns almost any elevated position •General Background c Woodham Ferrers, and from Hullbridge Langenhoe and again southeast of into a ready vantage point from which a •Purpose and Scope to Canewdon. Maldon. Elsewhere, as at , distant views are only limited by the above the Mersea Flats at Cudmore often misty atmosphere found here at p •Methodology This is topped by a limited band of Grove and above St Lawrence Bay, the coast. e •Geology and Claygate Beds around , which the land rises more steeply to around Landform forms a sandy transition at the top 20m AOD, to give a distinct backdrop East of Rochford the Wakering and of the clay that is exposed along the to the horizontal planes of the coastal Paglesham farmlands are formed on F •Soils narrow crest of the valley’s side. marsh. a distinct patchwork of terrace, sands r •History and and gravels, overlain by brickearth, Archaeology a This topographical difference is most all deposits of economic value giving •Settlement and striking at Creeksea, where the rise to a landscape of worked-out m Land-use higher land comes to the river’s edge and restored land. The Quaternary e •Cultural Perceptions as low cliffs, and behind Bridgemarsh sands and gravels, that cover parts of w Island where the land rises steeply coastal Essex are primarily the result o •Ecology to 50m. Canewdon, which perches of the Thames and Medway rivers’ •Study Area on an outcrop of London Clay topped migration during the last Ice Age. In r with river terrace gravels, is one of WKH¿QDOFROGSHULRGWKH'HYHQVLDQ k Part One. Landscape a distinct series of low, but visually the brickearths of southeast Essex Character Types dramatic, coastal hills running west, were formed by the deposition of Part Two. Landscape which rises from this matrix of clayey loess, or windblown silts. Character Areas The characteristic fringing marshlands alluviums.

Bibliography protected by sea walls were traditionally grazing marsh but most Perhaps the most characteristic feature Consultees of the land is now ploughed. They are of this coast, however, is the way the

Appendices composed of varied marine sediments alluviums extend to form most of the lying at the seaward foot of the low eastern Dengie peninsula, Wallasea, clay hills or terrace gravels. These Foulness and the Roach archipelago, level, and for the most part ancient, stretching in unremitting horizontals marshlands with their relic dykes and from the defensive sea walls up to ditches often still visible, generally 10km inland before the land rises. extend no further than 5m AOD above This trait is most marked on Wallasea sea level. Island where the level landscape 10 Soils L CONTENTS soils map a Preface n The soils along the coast associate recreation among the creeks. less wet on the slopes leading down Executive Summary FORVHO\ZLWKWKHJHRORJ\UHÀHFWLQJWKH to the river valleys. Traditionally d Landscape Framework recent drift deposits, the underlying The hinterlands of the marshes are used for dairying, most of this land s Tertiary London Clay and the small formed on the clayey soils and loams has now been given over to cereals. •General Background c outcrops of Tertiary sands. that have developed on the London Scattered woodlands are locally a •Purpose and Scope Clay and terrace gravels. The sands and common, especially on the steeper At the coast itself the most common gravels found in broad swathes behind valley slopes. p •Methodology soils are those associated with the the marshlands at Brightlingsea, St e •Geology and marine alluviums. These are deep, Osyth and Fingringhoe have given rise Where the London clays and drift Landform JHQHUDOO\FOD\H\VRLOVRQÀDWODQGZLWK to loams that are variously affected deposits are topped by river terrace by groundwater but produce soils gravels, in the Dengie hinterlands, F •Soils ÀXFWXDWLQJJURXQGZDWHUOHYHOVJLYLQJ ULVHWRWKHULVNRIÀRRGLQJLQSODFHV traditionally used for arable crops. around Heybridge and between the r •History and Water is controlled by a complex Roach and the Crouch, the good Archaeology a system of criss-crossing drains and On Mersea, in the backlands of quality soils can support horticultural •Settlement and ditches, some retaining the curves Dengie and around Paglesham, the crops and cereals. However, much of m Land-use and bends of natural watercourses ¿QHU ORDP\ VRLOV KDYH WUDGLWLRQDOO\ the area east of Heybridge has been e •Cultural Perceptions whereas others form the straight given rise to short-term grassland exploited for its gravels. w lines and right angles of the drawing- DQGVRPH¿HOGYHJHWDEOHVDVZHOODV o •Ecology board. arable crops. •Study Area r These soils are found on the marshland The brown soils found around k Part One. Landscape of the Colne and Blackwater estuaries, Tollesbury and Tolleshunt D’Arcy Character Types the Rivers Crouch and Roach, the are good quality well-drained loams Part Two. Landscape length of Dengie and Foulness and derived from the underlying gravels. Character Areas much of the Roach archipelago. These soils are used for both arable

Bibliography On the seaward side of Dengie and and horticultural crops and also Foulness a more silty and calcareous support some woodland. Consultees soil exists. This underlies the more

Appendices recently settled marshlands and The higher ground formed on the has given rise to good quality soils London Clays gives rise to clayey soils traditionally used for arable crops. The and where topped by river terrace salt marshes themselves are formed gravels to loamy soils. The clayey on weakly developed soils of varying soils, forming the higher ground texture in the intertidal zone. The behind the marshes on the Crouch higher salt marsh was traditionally and Blackwater estuaries are often used for grazing, with wildfowling and mottled due to water-logging, but are 11 History and Archaeology L CONTENTS a Preface n Archaeological survey work of the insubstantial remains have been extensive settlement seems to have Executive Summary coastal zone of Essex has revealed lost. The inland sites, however, were evolved behind a protective coastal d Landscape Framework some of the best and most extensive reoccupied over many centuries and sand or gravel bar. Following a further s evidence for prehistoric settlements have therefore retained archaeological sea transgression, the coast took on a •General Background c in the county. evidence showing a hunter-gatherer form much like the present. a •Purpose and Scope subsistence. At the beginning of the current In the later Bronze Age there is p •Methodology interglacial, people were already By the Neolithic, there is evidence evidence of wooden structures such e •Geology and living in most parts of Essex. Inland, at many sites in the intertidal zone. as platforms of brushwood, possible Landform the rolling hills and coastal slopes The most extensive and completely landing stages, hurdle bridges and were covered with mixed woodland, investigated site is at The Stumble, now small lengths of trackway, the latter F •Soils possibly dominated by oak and in the intertidal zone of the Blackwater perhaps allowing sheep access to r •History and lime. The lower reaches of the rivers Estuary. These sites provide evidence wetland or marsh, in the sheltered Archaeology a were wide and shallow with swampy of an economy based on localised HVWXDULHV 7KH ¿QGLQJ RI WKH m •Settlement and ÀRRGSODLQV RI UHHGV DQG ZHW JUDVV\ agriculture and woodland foraging. ‘Canewdon Paddle’ from this time is Land-use areas. Although it is thought the estuarine evidence that the estuaries and creeks e •Cultural Perceptions fringes were still well wooded, there were being used for transport and w From the end of the last glaciation, is also evidence of forest clearance. undoubtedly small boats were used to o •Ecology a combination of rising sea level and In the Bradwell, Burnham, Wallasea link the small coastal communities not •Study Area subsidence of the North Sea basin and Foulness area, the coastline was only within Essex but also across the r led to submergence of former coastal substantially different from that of southern North Sea. Salt production k Part One. Landscape lowlands. A sequence of rises and falls the present day, being much further began around the Essex coast in the Character Types between 4,000–10,000 years ago inland. What is now land was then a Middle Bronze Age. Part Two. Landscape resulted in the effective covering of FRPSOH[ RI WLGDO VDQG DQG VLOW ÀDWV Character Areas previously occupied sites by estuarine and occasional beach ridges of sand, The late Bronze Age was a time of

Bibliography sediments, thus protecting the sites gravels and shells. great expansion of settlement and from further weathering. agriculture. Settlement systems in Consultees The Later Neolithic and Early Bronze the estuaries would have used the

Appendices Evidence from what were dry-land Age are marked by increased resources available there; the marshes sites at Hullbridge and Maylandsea woodland activity, evidenced by for grazing, the estuaries for hunting, suggest that communities at this time extensive charcoal remains, possibly ¿VKLQJ DQG VKHOO¿VK JDWKHULQJ were mobile, undoubtedly exploiting a late stage of clearance, with $OWKRXJK VKHOO¿VK ZHUH XQGRXEWHGO\ resources from the sea as well as the decreased settlement in the present exploited in previous eras, it is only land. Seasonal coastal settlements intertidal zone. Settlement appears from the Bronze Age that evidence may have been abandoned each to have moved inland away from the of cockle and mussel shells become year, and with sea-level rise, their damp estuary edge. At Jaywick an available and numerous settlements 12 History and Archaeology L CONTENTS a Preface n are known along the Blackwater, the county, just behind the sea wall, Island. The most dramatic remains of Executive Summary Thames and other Essex estuaries maybe relating not only to demand WKLVSHULRGDUHKXJHWLPEHU¿VKWUDSV d Landscape Framework from this time. Evidence also suggests for salt from thriving towns such as many examples of which have been s an essentially pastoral agriculture but Colchester and London but also supply recorded in the Blackwater Estuary. •General Background c with relatively high woodland cover, of resources such as fuel and clay to a •Purpose and Scope still mainly oak. make the ceramic vessels. At there is evidence of what might p •Methodology The Iron Age and Roman periods, have been a trans-shipment point for e •Geology and about 2000 years ago, were times traded goods. Landform of gradual increased population and settlement, with resulting pressure F •Soils 7KHUH LV HYLGHQFH IURP WKH VKHOO¿VK RQ ODQG $JULFXOWXUH LQWHQVL¿HG DQG DQG ¿VK ERQHV IRXQG RQ WKH FRDVW r •History and deforestation continued with metal elsewhere in Essex of on-going St Peter’s Church Archaeology a SORXJKV XVHG IRU WKH ¿UVW WLPH DV economies based on marine life; at •Settlement and these were effective on heavier soils. The Stumble the remains of what may At this time, pollen samples indicate m Land-use EH DQ ,URQ $JH ¿VK WUDS KDYH EHHQ LQWHQVL¿FDWLRQRUEHWWHUPDQDJHPHQW e •Cultural Perceptions The coastal plains and river valleys found. Sheep and goat bones indicate of pasture and increased crop w were characterised by unenclosed the importance of the marshes for production around the Blackwater. o •Ecology farmsteads, villages and hamlets. grazing at this time. Bradwell was part of a thriving and •Study Area Evidence for trackways and drove productive economy with trade by r roads linking animal enclosures to Essex’s coast, so close to that boat likely with East Anglia, Kent and k Part One. Landscape settlements has been found. The of Europe, made it vulnerable to Europe. Character Types particular feature, however, of this invasion from across the channel from Part Two. Landscape period are the red hills found widely Roman times. From then into the The distinctive coastal sea walls that Character Areas around the Essex coast resulting from twentieth century there is evidence protect large parts of the old grazing

Bibliography the manufacture of salt. of military defence of the coast, an marshes of Essex are medieval or early example is at the Roman fort of post-medieval in origin. At Canvey, Consultees Salt was important for preserving Bradwell on Sea. The Roman site at Foulness and adjacent islands each

Appendices food, and was made by evaporating Bradwell was subsequently chosen as marsh was separately protected and sea water in ceramic vessels, the the spectacular site for the Saxon St only at a later date was the whole remains of which have given rise Peter’s on the Wall, one of a group island enclosed with walls and the old to the distinctive red earths of the of churches in pivotal positions in ones left as counter-walls. In places hills. Remains of the charcoal used relation to Europe that helped re- the timber structure of these ancient for burning can also be found. These establish Christianity in England. Also sea walls has been exposed where red hills appear to be concentrated mid-Saxon in origin is the Strood, the the walls have been undercut, as at in the estuaries in the north-east of causeway from the mainland to Mersea Tollesbury Creek. 13 History and Archaeology L CONTENTS a Preface n Waterborne transport was the prime Rowhedge, Brightlingsea, West In contrast to the many oyster pits, Executive Summary method of movement of both people 0HUVHD DQG 0DOGRQ 7KHVH ÀHHWV there are few remains of the long d Landscape Framework and goods throughout the greater ¿VKHG QRW RQO\ LQVKRUH EXW DOVR IRU history of wildfowling in the marshes. s Thames. From at least the Saxon months at a time went to Falmouth or An exception is the once common •General Background c period every farm would have had a Holland looking for deep-sea oysters GHFR\ SRQGV RIWHQ VWDU¿VKVKDSHG a •Purpose and Scope simple quay alongside which boats and also off the French coast for many of these were lost in the 1950s could tie up. In effect this system scallops. It is from this time that the and 1960s when the grazing marshes p •Methodology survived into the 20th century when numerous oyster pits that still mark were ploughed. These features were e •Geology and EDUJHVWRRNVWUDZHWFIURPWKH¿HOGV the salt marshes all around the Mid most plentiful on the Blackwater and Landform of Essex to the horse-powered streets Essex coast can start to be dated. Dengie marshes in the 18th and 19th of London, bringing back refuse to centuries. Some remained in use into F •Soils PDQXUH WKH ¿HOGV 7KH %URQ]H $JH Oyster storage pits, mostly of post- the middle of 20th century, those that r •History and paddle recovered from the Crouch mediaeval date, occur extensively UHPDLQEHLQJPRVWHDVLO\LGHQWL¿HGE\ Archaeology a at Canewdon and more recent around the coast. The remains of the scrub that gradually chokes them •Settlement and shipwrecks and reused fragments of these can still be clearly seen today. from the banks. m Land-use vessels are known from several sites, They represent the holding-grounds e •Cultural Perceptions and present potentially important from which the oysters could be w archaeological evidence associated packed before being sent to London o •Ecology with Britain’s development as a and onwards by train on the aptly- •Study Area maritime nation and a world power. named ‘Crab and Winkle’ lines. These r This tradition of maritime movement branch lines once linked each small k Part One. Landscape did not cease completely until after the port back to the main line, but some, Character Types Second World War with sailing barges such as the Tollesbury branch did not Part Two. Landscape in particular still to be found at the even survive the First World War. Martello Tower Character Areas wharves of Colchester, Brightlingsea

Bibliography and Maldon. The defensive role of this part of the Essex coast in post-medieval Consultees 7KH LPSRUWDQFH RI VKHOO¿VK DQG times continued with construction Appendices VSHFL¿FDOO\ R\VWHUV DURXQG WKH of earthwork forts at the mouth Blackwater and Colne, continued of the Colne estuary in the 1540s. through to the 19th century. This Remarkably one of these earth forts ZDVWKHJUHDWHUDRIWKH(VVH[¿VKLQJ survives at Cudmore Grove. The 19th ÀHHWV RI VSHFLDOL]HG FRDVWHUV DQG century martello towers that form smacks which dredged under sail such imposing structures in the low- from the many small ports around lying marshlands at Seawick and Point the river estuaries; from Colchester, Clear were built as part of a string of 14 History and Archaeology L CONTENTS a Preface n IRUWL¿FDWLRQV DJDLQVW 1DSROHRQ WKDW Executive Summary stretch up the coast to Harwich. In d Landscape Framework the the importance of s defending the approaches to London •General Background c led to the construction of major a •Purpose and Scope defences like Coalhouse and Tilbury forts. p •Methodology e •Geology and Military activity around Foulness, Landform VSHFL¿FDOO\ DW 6KRHEXU\ GDWHV IURP 1855 when the experimental range F •Soils for artillery was transferred from r •History and Woolwich, because that location was Archaeology a already too close to neighbouring •Settlement and settlement. Firing ranges were m Land-use established on the marshes at e •Cultural Perceptions $YHOH\QHDU3XUÀHHWODWHULQWKHWK w century. The long history of military o •Ecology RFFXSDWLRQ RI )RXOQHVV DQG 3XUÀHHW •Study Area has tended to preserve many of the r historic features and wildlife interest k Part One. Landscape of these marshlands. Character Types

Part Two. Landscape All around the Essex coast there are Character Areas extensive remains of Second World

Bibliography War defences and some First World War installations also survive. Cold Consultees War weapons’ research at Foulness

Appendices ended recently and the training base and experimental range at Shoeburyness are likely to be partly redeveloped in the near future.

15 Settlement and Land Use L CONTENTS a Preface n The marshland areas of the Mid ditches and archaeological features Paved roads and lanes lie close to the Executive Summary Essex coast have been important were all lost to modern farming 15-20m AOD contour with unpaved d Landscape Framework for agriculture since at least the methods. Around 80% of the grazing trackways, usually to farms or old s later Bronze Age. They produced, in marsh appears to have been lost since wharves, forming right-angled routes •General Background c particular, wool and dairy produce for the Second World War, although this down to the marsh edge and beyond a •Purpose and Scope both local use and export to London. LVEHLQJVORZO\UHFWL¿HGWKURXJKDJUL to the creeks or sea, testament yet Although grazing was the dominant environmental schemes such as the again to the importance of water p •Methodology farming pattern for centuries, some creation in the past ten years of an in commercial and agricultural life e •Geology and marshland areas, such as part of Environmentally Sensitive Area along until the middle of the 19th century Landform Foulness, were intensively farmed this coast. and beyond. The amphibious dual as early as the 16th century with a existence of many of the inhabitants F •Soils high percentage of the land growing In much of the farmed hinterland of the coast until the early years of r •History and cereals for the London market. above the marsh, a distinct rectilinear the 20th century lives on in the old Archaeology a SDWWHUQRIVPDOOWRPHGLXPVFDOH¿HOGV pub names of what are now land- •Settlement and The grazing marshes, which were of ancient origin can be discerned, based communities; The Plough and m Land-use created during mediaeval and DOWKRXJK DJULFXOWXUDO LQWHQVL¿FDWLRQ Sail at Paglesham, the Ferryman at e •Cultural Perceptions early post-mediaeval times, were has resulted in high loss of hedgerows . w extensive all around the coast. On the locally and so left a fragmented and o •Ecology higher ground, a mixed agriculture discordant pattern that is hard to The traditional building materials used •Study Area of grassland and arable developed, read in places. for cottages found around the marsh r producing hay or corn for London. are timber clapboard, usually white- k Part One. Landscape Orchards, copses and hedgerows Historically, most settlements were painted or with black gable ends, or Character Types gave a more enclosed and textured located beyond the edge of the marsh red brick with red tiled roofs. Thatch Part Two. Landscape landscape than the poorly-drained on the higher land, with farms often may have been more extensive in the Character Areas land below. sitting just above the 5m AOD mark past, as references in 19th century and

Bibliography in a line above the marsh. early 20th century texts testify. Many This pattern of farming continued of these traditional buildings may only Consultees almost unchanged until the mid- The only settlements of any size that date from the early 19th century, with

Appendices 20th century when developments in developed within the marshland itself the timber trade through Maldon and drainage technology, improvements to ZHUH WKH ¿VKLQJ YLOODJHV DQG VPDOO the Crouch contributing to the use of sea wall defences following the 1953 ports: Brightlingsea, and clapboard nearby. The marshes were ÀRRGVDQGWKHSURYLVLRQRIVXEVLGLHV towards the northern part traditionally economically important and incentives led to substantial loss of the study area; Maldon, Burnham, but peripheral to the main areas of of grazing marsh and its associated Rochford, Leigh, and Fobbing further settlement so the older buildings were features in conversion to arable. south. often modest in size and origin, and +DELWDWYDOXHKLVWRULF¿HOGERXQGDU\ due to their poor construction, many 16 Settlement and Land Use L CONTENTS a Preface n did not survive into the 20th century. industry and military purposes, both Executive Summary There are some notable exceptions, ironically because of the remoteness d Landscape Framework such as St Osyth’s Priory and Hadleigh of some of its creeks and headlands. s Castle. •General Background c a •Purpose and Scope Farmers in the 1930s agricultural GHSUHVVLRQ GLYLGHG ¿HOGV LQWR SORWV p •Methodology to sell to Londoners. Tents and sheds e •Geology and became more permanent homes Landform during and after the war and plotlands developed often without services or F •Soils other amenities. The conversion of r •History and grazing marsh and pasture, mainly Archaeology a since the Second World War, has •Settlement and affected the colour and texture of m Land-use the marshland character, yet it is e •Cultural Perceptions perhaps the gradual encroachment of w settlement into this low-lying land that o •Ecology has altered its open character more •Study Area VLJQL¿FDQWO\ DW D ORFDO OHYHO 7KLV LV r apparent in the settlements at Jaywick k Part One. Landscape and and the rambling Character Types caravan sites of Mersea; the spreading Part Two. Landscape seaside villages of Maylandsea and St Character Areas Lawrence on the Dengie Peninsula

Bibliography that have grown around plotland villages; Bradwell power station and Consultees the scattered military installations

Appendices of Foulness, as well as the extensive urban and industrial developments in south Essex.

There has been longstanding use of the coastal area of Essex not only for holidays and leisure use, because of its proximity to London, but for 17 Cultural Perceptions L CONTENTS a Preface n Although much of the current DW 6RXWK %HQÀHHW 7KH EULJKW OLJKW FKDQQHOV ÀXVKHG ZLWK ZDWHU WZLFH Executive Summary perception of Essex can be summed- that has attracted painters down the in twenty-four hours. At noontides, d Landscape Framework up by the image presented in the years to Dedham Vale is present at and especially at the equinoxes, the s UHFHQW ¿OP (VVH[ %R\V WKLV LV D the coast itself, with a combination of sea asserts its royalty over this vast •General Background c distorted view that treats all of Essex what Ronald Blyth describes as ‘high region. a •Purpose and Scope as an extension of the East End of skies and low landscape’. Sabine Baring-Gould, 1880 London. Most early observations of p •Methodology the people and their landscape were Displays in the Beecroft Art Gallery, As the vicar at East Mersea church for e •Geology and matter of fact. Commenting on the Southend-on-Sea, include W Bates’ several years, Baring-Gould obviously Landform Essex estuaries in the 18th century, A View of Leigh, 1861; A view near spent many hours observing and Daniel Defoe focuses on the abundant Southend by A Vickers; and recording the landscape around him: F •Soils %HQÀHHW natural produce available for London Creek and Southchurch Beach r •History and tables: A more desolate region can scarcely Archaeology a By the 19th century, Sabine Baring- be conceived, and yet it is not without •Settlement and In this inlet of the sea is Osey or Osyth Gould, in his novel Mehalah, looks beauty. In summer, the thrift mantles m Land-use Island, commonly called Oosy Island, lyrically at the Essex wetlands, the marshes with shot satin, passing e •Cultural Perceptions so well known by our London men of describing their intrinsic character through all gradations of tint from w SOHDVXUH IRU WKH LQ¿QLWH QXPEHU RI admiringly and for its own sake. He maiden’s blush to lily white. Thereafter o •Ecology wild-fowl, that is to say duck, mallard, describes The Ray, the marshy land a purple glow steals over the waste, as •Study Area teal and widgeon, of which there are WKDW DW KLJK ZDWHU DSSHDUV WR ÀRDW WKHVHDODYHQGHUEXUVWVLQWRÀRZHUV r VXFK YDVW ÀLJKWV WKDW WKH\ WHOO XV between Mersea Island and the and simultaneously every creek and k Part One. Landscape the island, namely the creek, seems mainland: pool is royally fringed with sea aster. Character Types covered with them, at certain times Sabine Baring-Gould, 1880 Part Two. Landscape of the year………….. Between the mouths of the Blackwater Character Areas Defoe, 1724 and the Colne, on the east coast of It is not from the land, however, but

Bibliography Essex, lies an extensive marshy tract from the sea that so much of this long, John Constable, although associated veined and freckled in every part with sinuous coast reveals itself. Several Consultees most with the landscapes of the water. At high tides the appearance is authors have discovered that the best

Appendices Dedham Vale, executed at least one that of a vast surface of Sargasso weed way to explore the Essex coastline, oil painting of the country house of ÀRDWLQJ RQ WKH VHD ZLWK UHQWV DQG although not necessarily the safest, the Hawkins family at Alresford Hall. patches of shining water traversing is in a small sailing boat. The most It sits on the wooded slopes that form and dappling it in all directions. The REYLRXVRIWKHVHLV0DXULFH*ULI¿WKV the backdrop to the Colne estuary creeks, some of considerable length yacht designer and journalist, who, and, most famously, he painted the and breadth, extend many miles in 1932, wrote ‘The Magic of the ruins of Hadleigh Castle in its striking inland, and are arteries whence Swatchways’, ‘swatch’ being an East bluff overlooking the Thames estuary EUDQFKHVRXWD¿EURXVWLVVXHRIVPDOOHU Anglian word for the narrow navigable 18 Cultural Perceptions L CONTENTS a Preface n channels that wind between the land not deep enough for the roar of surf of this meagre and featureless coast Executive Summary and the numerous changing mud and nor shrill enough for the shriek of as being too untrustworthy to do d Landscape Framework VDQGEDQNV WKDW GH¿QH LWV VHDZDUG the sea’ s onslaught on shingle, but business with. The sea lathered over s edge. The book describes almost a steady incessant commotion, like its maze of offshore sandbars; church •General Background c every creek and channel between the sound of an angry crowd heard towers marked on the chart were lost a •Purpose and Scope Brightlingsea and Paglesham, every through closed doors. among trees that looked like lines of bar and sandbank between Colne 0DXULFH*ULI¿WKV crouching mangroves in a swamp; I’d p •Methodology Point and Maplin, and every mood of investigated the narrow swatchways e •Geology and the sea. Many of the features of that In the 1950s John Betjeman, in his leading inshore through the sands, Landform WLPH WKH ¿VKLQJ ERDWV DQG EDUJHV FROOHFWHG SRHPV UHÀHFWHG RQ WKH and headed north for the broad, safe a thatched roof, the calling cattle on Essex he knew at the beginning of the channel into Harwich. F •Soils Foulness are now just ghosts, and yet 20th century. r •History and the character of the places has not Having mastered his sailing-boat Archaeology a fundamentally changed. )DU(VVH[¿IW\PLOHVDZD\ and gained the courage to enter the •Settlement and The level wastes of sucking mud Blackwater, however, he becomes m Land-use The ebb had been silently receding Where distant barges high with hay beguiled. e •Cultural Perceptions for nearly three hours, and on each &RPHVDLOLQJLQXSRQWKHÀRRG w VLGH RI WKH ULYHU WKH PXGÀDWV ZHUH Essex had hardly any vertical o •Ecology uncovering rapidly. A small white- Like many observers before and dimension at all; its character lay in •Study Area sailed barge-yacht was trying to beat after him, the dramatic quality of the voluptuous horizontals - the looping r up against a dying westerly wind, and traditional working boats, the barges, sea walls, the crescent sandbars, the k Part One. Landscape on the horizon, it seemed, Osea lay smacks and ‘bawleys’ (a corruption curving throats of the river mouths.’ Character Types like a mirage with its purple undulating of boiler from the tradition of boiling Jonathan Raban, 1987 Part Two. Landscape masses of trees. WKH VKHOO¿VK RQ ERDUG  DV ZHOO DV Character Areas WKH HPSW\ PXGÀDWV FDSWXUHV KLV Raban’s description of the landscape

Bibliography The shore where we landed was imagination. of Dengie could in fact be a picture of hard, and we scrunched away along any number of locations on the Essex Consultees towards the point - and the sea. It was )LIW\ \HDUV DIWHU 0DXULFH *ULI¿WKV coast and estuaries: Appendices a deserted bit of coast, this strip of Jonathan Raban, author and journalist, sedge-bordered shingle, although two coasting around Britain in a small Land and sea were constantly changing miles to the north lay Brightlingsea, yacht, chose to explore and also to places. As the tide shrank away with its creek crowded with oyster overwinter on the wild marshlands of through the culverts between banks VPDFNVDQG¿VKLQJERDWV« Dengie. of cord-grass, it left large islands of shining mud, looking more liquid than From out there towards the invisible 2Q P\ ¿UVW FLUFXLW RI WKH LVODQGV WKHUXIÀHGZDWHUURXQGWKHLUVKRUHV bar buoy came a continuous noise, three years before, I’d steered clear :KHQWKHVHDFDPHEDFNÀRRGLQJLQ 19 Cultural Perceptions L CONTENTS a Preface n over the salt marshes, drowning the of eastern England, in Black Shuck, Executive Summary islands and opening sandy footpaths evocatively illustrated by local artist d Landscape Framework to navigation, it was arrested only James Dodds. s by the ancient earthwork of the sea •General Background c wall… He rises from the blackness a •Purpose and Scope Jonathan Raban, 1987 And races through the lanes To reach the lonely estuary track p •Methodology Even under cultivation, the marshes And sneaks along the sea walls e •Geology and have retained many of their seascape 7KHVDOWLQJVDQGWKHÀDWV Landform qualities: With no one but the wind to call him back F •Soils …the face of the England that I could Martin Newell & James Dodds, 1997 r •History and see from the window was fat - a Archaeology a landscape of amazing plenty. The The ancient folktale from which •Settlement and billowing sea waves of growing corn this poem originates can grip the m Land-use went on for miles. When the combine imagination if you walk alone along e •Cultural Perceptions harvesters moved in, they worked all the remote tracks and footpaths w night, stealing across the marshes that are even now the only routes to o •Ecology in isolated pools of brightness like the sea in this remote and tranquil •Study Area illuminated trawlers. landscape. These pictures of lost r marshlands were popular through the k Part One. Landscape The cornstalk rustle of the sea makes late 20th century. Character Types itself heard a mile away. Part Two. Landscape Jonathan Raban, 1987 Character Areas

Bibliography Today, the wildness and history of WKLV FRDVW VWLOO H[HUWV DQ LQÀXHQFH Consultees on local artists, whose growing

Appendices numbers, provide material for the thriving art galleries. Martin Newell, poet and musician, the self-styled Wild Man of Wivenhoe, has brought to a contemporary audience some of the legends and tales that haunt the East Anglian coast. He recounts the tale of the mythical ghost dog 20 Ecology L CONTENTS a Preface n The undeveloped coast of Essex value and diversity but a remarkably being colonised by small numbers of Executive Summary exhibits a strong relationship between rich and diverse historic environment breeding avocets. d Landscape Framework its ecology and landscape, perhaps has also been lost. s more than anywhere else in the The success of all breeding waders is •General Background c county. Much of the Mid Essex Coast One of the best remaining examples enhanced by the restriction of grazing a •Purpose and Scope has been designated in some way for of grazing marsh along the Mid Essex during spring to avoid trampling, its nature conservation value, often at Coast is at Old Hall Marshes, north of and the maintenance of open water p •Methodology an international level. More than any Tollesbury, which has been under the margins into June to provide feeding e •Geology and other attribute apart from landform, PDQDJHPHQWRIWKH563%IRU¿IWHHQ areas for chicks. A marsh grazed at the Landform the ecology of the coastland gives it a years. In winter there can be up to optimum density will usually develop unique and distinctive quality. a tussocky sward, which harbours F •Soils ¿YH WKRXVDQG %UHQW *HHVH  RI the world population, inhabiting these high densities of small mammals and r •History and Grazing marsh: These habitats, once marshes. The water levels and salinity birds. These in turn support birds of Archaeology a characteristic but now exceptional, LQWKHÀHHWVDQGGLNHVDUHFRQWUROOHG prey, often widely dispersed over huge •Settlement and are found traditionally behind the sea by a complex system of pumps and areas; short-eared owl, hen harrier, m Land-use wall formed on the poorly-drained silty sluices that gives varied micro- peregrine and merlin in winter, marsh e •Cultural Perceptions and clay soils of the marine alluviums. habitats. These drainage systems are harrier on migration, and barn owl w From Roman times, the inhabitants of great entomological interest with and kestrel all year round. o •Ecology of the open wetlands of these coasts many special insects relying upon •Study Area tried to control the extent of the the continuation of grazing to provide Grazing marshes have had a varied r tides with dykes and walls in order to lightly trampled margins in which to history. Many have undergone k Part One. Landscape create non-tidal grazing marsh from breed. drainage, levelling and ploughing, Character Types the natural salt marshes. Traditionally some from early in their history Part Two. Landscape such marshes have been grazed by The marsh grassland can be equally as on Foulness. Whilst small areas Character Areas sheep all year round and by cattle in distinctive, often dominated by have subsequently reverted back to

Bibliography the summer, but much of this land meadow barley, strawberry clover, marshland, most have remained in is now arable. In the less disturbed spiny rest-harrow and hairy buttercup. arable cultivation. The most dramatic Consultees grazing marshes, the former salt Those marshes which have escaped phase of arable conversion was

Appendices marsh structure is still apparent in the plough during their history often around the Second World War and the sinuous system of ditches, dykes feature large numbers of ant hills; the following the Great Flood of January DQGÀHHWVWKDWGUDLQHGWKHPDUVKHV hills provide a unique, well-drained 1953. Last century 80% of grazing The water ranges from fresh to almost micro-habitat, as well as shelter marsh was lost, mostly dating from as salty as sea water, and the wildlife for breeding redshank, lapwing, this period, although there was UHÀHFWV WKLV ,Q FRQWUDVW :DOODVHD shelduck and yellow wagtail, and another rapid period of conversion Island has lost not only its marshland ants as food for green woodpeckers. following Britain’s entry into the character and features, its habitat The Essex grazing marshes are also European Economic Community. 21 Ecology L CONTENTS a Preface n Damaging though these losses have seaward side can be higher than that abundant. Executive Summary been, the vast areas of winter cereal to landward because the latter has d Landscape Framework crops have proved highly attractive to fallen due to isostatic settlement. The The counterpart habitat to the sea s Brent geese, and form colourful and areas outside the wall have grown wall is the borrowdyke or delph ditch, •General Background c striking landscapes in their own right higher in response as silt deposition from which clay was excavated to a •Purpose and Scope in high summer. continues. make the wall. These ancient linear water-features run parallel to the sea- p •Methodology Losses have also occurred through walls over hundreds of miles around e •Geology and urbanisation, but to a far lesser degree the Essex coast with few breaks, Landform than arable conversion. A steady forming an unusual habitat of varied increase in urban land use took place salinity depending on local conditions F •Soils between 1947 and 1960, mainly in and management. r •History and land adjacent to existing centres of Archaeology a population such as Maldon, Burnham The water in the borrowdyke is usually •Settlement and and West Mersea. Urbanisation brackish, a mixture of salt water m Land-use results not only in the loss of habitat seeping through the wall or leaking e •Cultural Perceptions but of the open and linear character The sea walls of Essex now represent through sluices and fresh water w of the marshlands, with buildings one of the last expanses of grassland drainage off the land. The typical o •Ecology and ornamental tree planting causing in the county, and support a range dominance of sea club-rush, glaucous •Study Area fragmentation of once uninterrupted of uncommon plants and insects. In bulrush and lesser reed mace is a r landscapes and seemingly limitless early summer, grass vetchling, sea UHÀHFWLRQ RI WKLV ZDWHU FKHPLVWU\ k Part One. Landscape views. clover and narrow-leaved bird’s-foot Where stands of reeds and other Character Types trefoil create a carpet of colour. emergent plants have developed, Part Two. Landscape Sea walls: These unique coastal and a limited range of reedbed birds is Character Areas estuarine features, designed to protect On a warm summer’s day, the air can present, along with rare insect and

Bibliography WKHVDOWPDUVKHVIURPWLGDOLQÀXHQFH EH ¿OOHG ZLWK WKH ZKLUULQJ VRQJV RI animal life. may have their origins in Roman Roesel’s bush-crickets, like the sound Consultees times. Most date back at least to the of bicycles freewheeling. This insect Salt marsh: Beyond the sea wall,

Appendices Middle Ages, although considerably can be extremely abundant along ZKHUHWKHVXUIDFHRIWKHPXGÀDWVLV changed by raising and repair. Only a the Essex coast, despite being scarce exposed for long enough in the tidal small percentage of the undeveloped nationally. Even more noticeable cycle, a range of plants can colonise coast is not protected in this way. DUH WKH EXWWHUÀLHV HVSHFLDOO\ JUDVV and form a salt marsh. The surface of From time to time the remains of feeders: Meadow brown, and Large, the marsh is dissected by a system of counter-walls can be found somewhat Small and Essex skippers are creeks and often pitted with isolated inland in the marshland marking an widespread; and Ringlet, Brown argus pools. Deceptively green when the old line of defence. The land to the and Marbled white can be locally tide is out, at high water they can 22 Ecology L CONTENTS a Preface n be remote and dangerous places, ranging from yellow to deep purple. ,QWHUWLGDO PXGÀDWV Where Executive Summary but accessible from the comparative sheltered conditions allow small d Landscape Framework dryness of an Essex punt! The middle marshes are more diverse, particles of sediment carried by the s with sea aster, salt marsh grasses, sea and river currents to settle, mud •General Background c Essex is especially important for and sea purslane with its highly DQGVDQG\ÀDWVFDQIRUP7KHVHIRUP a •Purpose and Scope this habitat, having a larger area of palatable leaves, and its abundant an extraordinary landscape at low salt marsh than any other British seeds much eaten by wintering birds. tide, especially when viewed from the p •Methodology county, amounting to 10% of the In summer, salt marshes can be a water itself. e •Geology and total national resource. It is under EOD]H RI FRORXU¿UVW SLQN ZLWK WKULIW Landform enormous pressure from coastal and then purple under swathes of sea It was not so much an estuary as squeeze, however - a combination of lavender. One unwelcome invader of a broad sea gulf, thirty miles from F •Soils a relative rise in sea level meeting the both salt marshes and upper mud jaw to jaw, with the ebb tide turning r •History and resistant force formed by the sea wall. ÀDWV LV FRPPRQ FRUGJUDVV ZKLFK it to an expanding archipelago as Archaeology a Staggering losses have been recorded can adversely affect the habitat for whaleback islands of mud and sand •Settlement and in the 25 years from 1973 to 1988. The birds and other plants. began to ease themselves out into m Land-use extent of Essex salt marsh fell from the hazy sunshine. e •Cultural Perceptions c4,000 hectares to c3,000 hectares In their natural state, salt marshes Jonathan Raban, 1987 w – that means about 40 hectares a also have an upper zone, washed only o •Ecology year or 1% a year. Although there is by the highest tides. Higher marshes Perhaps one of the most dramatic •Study Area variability between different parts of in Essex have now largely been lost as DQGEHVWNQRZQRIWKHVDQGÀDWVDUH r the coast, it is the big picture which a result of sea-wall construction, but the Maplin Sands off Foulness where k Part One. Landscape is most worrying. Extensive marshes where fragments remain, they can literally miles of sands are exposed, Character Types still remain at Colne Point, Abbot’s VXSSRUW D GLVWLQFWLYH ÀRUD 6KUXEE\ forming one of the biggest intertidal Part Two. Landscape Hall and Northey Island and fringing seablite and golden samphire, both zones in Britain. Character Areas the east coast of Dengie but some nationally scarce species, are often

Bibliography show signs of erosion. abundant with sea wormwood locally Glistening in the sun at low tide, common. Above the threat of high the estuarine and coastal muds and Consultees Salt marshes have a much specialised tides during the summer, the upper sands are places of great beauty that

Appendices ÀRUD FRPSRVHG RI VSHFLHV WKDW marshes may support high densities reveal their ecological richness on can tolerate or thrive in high salt of breeding redshank and, more close examination. Countless millions concentrations. At the lower levels, locally, large colonies of black-headed RIZRUPVVQDLOVVKHOO¿VKDQGRWKHU covered by every tide, most of the gulls. invertebrates, and often a surface plants are annuals, notably the layer of green algae contribute glassworts (a very palatable plant These upper zones were traditionally to a biological productivity, which known also as samphire). These used for summer sheep grazing at surpasses that of even the most develop distinctive tints in the autumn, low water. intensive agricultural system. Life 23 Ecology L CONTENTS a Preface n on and in the mud is supported by They are a special feature of the Executive Summary nutrients brought in by the twice-daily Blackwater, Dengie and Foulness d Landscape Framework tides. In turn this becomes food for DUHDV D UHÀHFWLRQ RI WKH PDVVLYH s ¿VK DQG ELUGV LQ SDUWLFXODU WR PRUH populations of cockles in the adjacent •General Background c than a quarter of a million wading PXGDQGVDQGÀDWV7KH\DOVRFRQWDLQ a •Purpose and Scope birds, ducks and geese every winter. varying proportions of other species, including mussels, oysters, winkles p •Methodology The sheltered estuaries of Essex are and the invasive alien slipper limpet. e •Geology and not generally under threat from land Landform reclamation or barrage construction Similar shingle habitats may be found against predators. Such a defence is, and are a major recreational resource in the outer reaches of the estuaries of course, counter-effective against F •Soils supporting all manner of water-based especially in north Essex. Colne Point, human trampling, and on the more r •History and activities. Where such activities a 4km-long shingle spit, is the best heavily used beaches these birds Archaeology a are subject to control, they can be Essex example, supporting an area of have been completely excluded. •Settlement and integrated with wildlife interest, vegetated shingle, an internationally m Land-use but excessive or inappropriate use scarce habitat. Sand dunes: Deposits of sand e •Cultural Perceptions of the estuaries, especially during forming into dunes are also associated w the winter months, can lead to Shells and shingle may be very with outer estuarine areas. These o •Ecology disturbance of feeding or roosting different, but the wildlife they support small fringing dunes, limited to a few •Study Area birds. Developments associated with shows great similarities. The unstable places such as Jaywick, are of value r water recreation, such as marinas, substrate and susceptibility to both for their special plants, and as natural k Part One. Landscape are also a cause of habitat loss, and, salt spray and drought make them defences against the sea. Sand is Character Types LQVRPHFDVHVDVLJQL¿FDQWVRXUFHRI unsuitable for all but a few well- both unstable and drought-prone, and Part Two. Landscape pollution. adapted plants. Typically, the sparse most plants growing on dunes show Character Areas vegetation is dominated by sea beet, adaptations such as deep tap roots,

Bibliography The threat from anti-fouling agents sea kale, yellow horned-poppy and succulent tissues, waxy coatings and is now receding and other sources of sea campion, all plants that can silvery foliage. Consultees pollution, especially from sewage and withstand the conditions.

Appendices HIÀXHQW GLVFKDUJHV DUH DOVR EHLQJ The roots of all plants help to stabilise reduced as European directives on Shell and shingle banks are also of the sand, but the most effective water quality are implemented. importance for ground-nesting birds, is marram grass, which can grow including ringed plover, oystercatcher through mobile sand, forming an Shell and shingle banks: Along the and also common, Sandwich and little effective frame to the dune. Once seaward edge of some salt marshes terns. The eggs are simply deposited stabilised, other plants can colonise, and sea walls, the remains of estuarine in a shallow depression, relying on including sea holly, sea bindweed and VKHOO¿VKDFFXPXODWHLQWRVKHOOEDQNV FDPRXÀDJHIRUGHIHQFH sea spurge. 24 Ecology L CONTENTS a Preface n Bird life on the dunes is restricted to generally tall and unkempt-looking, healthy adults. These programmes Executive Summary a few pairs of ground-nesters in the the result in part of the natural habit of are extremely important for the d Landscape Framework VXPPHUDQGURYLQJÀRFNVRIODUNVDQG the elm compared to the more bushy future both of the landscape and the s other small birds in winter. Down on form of hawthorn or hazel. This form tree, whose status is recognized in its •General Background c the sandy foreshores, the sanderling can perhaps also be linked in part designation as a Biodiversity Action a •Purpose and Scope is a characteristic wader, brilliant WR PDQDJHPHQW UHJLPHV RU UHÀHFW Plan (BAP) species by Essex County white in winter, following each wave the local climate at the coast, since Council. p •Methodology in and out on clockwork legs in its more compact, clipped hedges can be e •Geology and search for food. found inland on the Dengie peninsula. Landform There appears to be no local tradition Human pressures, especially of laying these elm hedgerows. F •Soils trampling, horse riding and off-road r •History and vehicles, damage the fragile vegetation Sadly many of the hedgerows on the Archaeology a cover, but natural dynamism, from coastal hinterland are littered with the •Settlement and wind and waves, also helps mould and skeletons of dead elm trees, ghosts of m Land-use move the sand. Dunes may, when not the 20th century when much of the e •Cultural Perceptions impeded, roll over on to salt marshes landscape, notably of the Dengie plain, w to provide a unique interface habitat, was graced by their distinctive outline, o •Ecology which supports a number of scarce and the lanes turned into tunnels by •Study Area plants. their over-arching branches. r k Part One. Landscape Hedgerows: Hedgerows are not at The culprit in their demise, Dutch Character Types all typical of the coastal marshlands. HOPGLVHDVHZDV¿UVWIRXQGLQ%ULWDLQ Part Two. Landscape Yet they form an important linear in the 1920s but the virulent strain Character Areas habitat on the higher ground of the that caused so much damage in the

Bibliography hinterland landscapes on the London latter half of the century didn’t take Clays with associated drifts, and on hold until the late 1960s. There is Consultees the better-drained farmlands of the currently both a local programme,

Appendices brickearths, river sands and gravels. run jointly by the Campaign to Protect Rural England (CPRE) and Braintree Elm is the dominant hedgerow plant District Council, and a national one in all these landscape types, but it is run by the Conservation Foundation, often associated with blackthorn and of taking cuttings from large elms bramble, and can even be enriched that, by their size, can be assumed to ZLWK KDZWKRUQ ¿HOG PDSOH KD]HO have resistance to the disease. These oak, and ash. The hedgerows are can then be grown on, hopefully as 25 Study Area L CONTENTS a Preface n Several local Landscape Character landscape Character Assessment of south (excluding urban centres) and Executive Summary Area studies, which include the coastal the study area. along the Stour valley to the north d Landscape Framework area, have been undertaken in Essex. WRGH¿QHWKHµVWXG\DUHD¶7KHVFRSH s •For further information you can link of this document covers the coast •General Background c Regional and County Scale here to the Greengrid Strategy from the Thames Gateway to Harwich a •Purpose and Scope The Essex and Southend-on-Sea and along the southern bank of the Landscape Character Assessment is Colchester Borough Council LCA is Stour, roughly following the 10m AOD p •Methodology one of a series commissioned by Essex currently being prepared. contour as its inland limit. e •Geology and County Council and Southend-on-Sea Landform Borough Council, the Joint Structure 7KH GLIIHUHQFHV LQ GH¿QLWLRQ RI DUHDV In Part Two there are therefore three Plan Authorities (JSPAs). This regional and types that evolved between F •Soils EURDG VHFWLRQV ORRVHO\ GH¿QHG 7KH scale report, prepared at the same different practitioners are outlined in South Essex, Mid Essex and North r •History and time as the Mid Essex LCA [2002] by 'H¿QLWLRQRI7HUPV(page 27) Essex groupings take account of Archaeology a landscape consultants Chris Blandford geographical rather than district •Settlement and Associates (CBA) was published in SCOPE boundaries.: m Land-use 2003. e •Cultural Perceptions The Essex Coastal Protection Belt is South Essex – (Thames Gateway) w •For further information you can link a county planning designation that Aveley Marshes to Mucking Flats o •Ecology here to the CBA LCA Introduction covers undeveloped coastal areas, Mucking Flats to Canvey Island & •Study Area together with the estuaries and rivers Southend r District Scale VXEMHFWWRWLGDOLQÀXHQFHDQGZDVVHW k Part One. Landscape Tendring landscape character up to protect them from all but essential Mid Essex – (Foulness and Dengie) Character Types assessment was produced in November development. The boundaries of the Foulness Archipelago Part Two. Landscape 2001 by Land Use Consultants (LUC). belt omit urban coast, larger towns, River Crouch Character Areas and land committed for development Dengie Peninsula

Bibliography Thurrock LCA (draft) was produced within existing plans. Land affected River Blackwater in September 2001: this is being by forms of development such as Consultees updated but until it is made available caravan sites is also excluded. Small North Essex – (Tendring)

Appendices reference is made where appropriate villages and developed land that St Osyth (River Colne to St Osyth) to the existing assessment. remains predominantly open such as The Naze (St Osyth to River Stour) PLQHUDOH[WUDFWLRQRUODQG¿OOVLWHVDUH The Thames Gateway South Essex included, however. Greengrid Strategy has been produced for the Greengrid Partnership by For the purposes of this study, a Landscape Design Associates (LDA similar belt has been extended into Design). It incorporates a summarised the Thames Gateway area to the 26 SL at nu d ys c Aa pr e a F r a m e w o r k

study area limit

27 Landscape Character Types L CONTENTS a Preface n This section describes the general character of each of the different landscape character types. The information base for Executive Summary WKHLULGHQWL¿FDWLRQKDVEHHQGHVFULEHGEURDGO\LQWKHVHFWLRQ0(7+2'2/2*<2)0,'(66(;/&$>@ d Landscape Framework s 7KHIROORZLQJODQGVFDSHW\SHVLGHQWL¿HGIRUWKH0LG(VVH[/&$KDYHEHHQµWUDQVODWHG¶WRWKHHTXLYDOHQWODQGVFDSHW\SHV c Part One. Landscape for the other areas: Character Types a Unvegetated South Essex Mid Essex LCA North Essex p Foreshore (Thurrock LCA)(+ overlap areas (Tendring LCA) e of North Essex) Inter-tidal Salt Marsh ESTUARY SALT MARSH / MUDFLATS OPEN COASTAL MARSH C Diverse Coastal UNVEGETATED FORESHORE Marshland h INTER-TIDAL SALT MARSH Uniform Coastal a Marshland ALLUVIAL DRAINED MARSHLAND DIVERSE COASTAL MARSHLAND DRAINED COASTAL MARSH r Urban Fringe UNIFORM COASTAL MARSHLAND a Marshland URBAN FRINGE ESTUARY MARSHLAND URBAN FRINGE COASTAL MARSHLAND c River Terrace Farmlands SAND/GRAVEL TERRACES RIVER TERRACE FARMLANDS RIVER FLOODPLAINS t MIXED MARSHLAND EDGE e Mixed Marshland e Edge CLAY VALLEYS ROLLING CLAY FARMLANDS CLAY VALLEYS r VALE-TOP FARMLANDS HEATHLAND PLATEAUX Rolling Clay Farmlands ENCLOSED VALLEY SIDES T Vale-Top Farmlands Characteristic features and key issues have been stated. Unless otherwise stated, the landscape types have been mapped y Enclosed Valley-Sides at 1: 100,000; 1:50,000 or 1:10,000 scale. p Part Two. Landscape e 'H¿QLWLRQ2I7HUPV Character Areas s Bibliography The complex nature of the assessment process necessitates a degree of qualitative judgement, as the factors that govern FKDUDFWHUGH¿QLWLRQ±JHRORJ\VRLOVWRSRJUDSK\HFRORJ\DUFKDHRORJ\DQGKLVWRU\ODQGXVHDQGVHWWOHPHQWDQGFXOWXUDO Consultees SHUFHSWLRQ±FDQEHYDULDEOHZLWKLQDVSHFL¿FW\SH Appendices Boundaries between types can be distinct as between the Diverse Coastal Marshland and the Unvegetated Foreshore or salt marsh where the sea wall marks a clear division; whereas some boundaries are broad and merging as between the Rolling Clay Farmlands and the Mixed Terrace Farmlands. 28 Landscape Character Types L CONTENTS a Preface n Some of the broader landscape character types are capable of variety at a local level; for instance the Unvegetated Executive Summary )RUHVKRUHFDQVXEGLYLGHLQWRPXGVVDQGVVKLQJOHDQGVKHOOVVRPHW\SHVFDQEHGH¿QHGPRUHQDUURZO\VXFKDVWKH d Landscape Framework Intertidal salt marsh. s c Part One. Landscape 6RIRUH[DPSOHWKHODQGVFDSHW\SH(VWXDU\VDOWPDUVKPXGÀDWVLQVRXWK(VVH[LVDVLPLODUW\SHWR2SHQ&RDVWDO0DUVK Character Types in North Essex, whereas in Mid Essex this category has been subdivided into two separate landscape types - Unvegetated a Unvegetated Foreshore and Intertidal salt marsh. p Foreshore e Inter-tidal Salt In Part Two character areas, often composed of various character types, are described in more detail. Marsh C Diverse Coastal Marshland h

Uniform Coastal a Marshland r Urban Fringe a Marshland c River Terrace Farmlands t e Mixed Marshland e Edge r Rolling Clay Farmlands T Vale-Top Farmlands y Enclosed Valley-Sides p Part Two. Landscape e Character Areas s Bibliography

Consultees

Appendices

29 L CONTENTS Unvegetated Foreshore location map a Preface n Executive Summary Aveley, Wennington Rainham Marshes, (Inner d Landscape Framework Thames to St Clement’s Reach) s South Essex (VWXDU\VDOWPDUVKPXGÀDWV Mucking and Fobbing Marshes c Part One. Landscape c Character Types %HQÀHHW&UHHNDW&DQYH\,VODQG%HQÀHHW a Foulness Point in Crouch Estuary and Unvegetated p Foreshore Foulness Archipelago e Dengie Coastlands Inter-tidal Salt Mid Essex Unvegetated Foreshore Marsh Upper Blackwater Estuary C Diverse Coastal Lower Blackwater Estuary Marshland Tollesbury Fleet in Tollesbury Coastlands h Uniform Coastal Strood Channel at Mersea Island a Marshland Channel in Colchester Claylands and r Urban Fringe Marshlands a Marshland Upper Colne Estuary c North Essex Open Coastal Marsh River Terrace Lower Colne Estuary Farmlands t Brightlingsea Flag Creek e Mixed Marshland St Osyth Coastlands Edge r Stour Estuary Rolling Clay Farmlands T Vale-Top Farmlands y Enclosed Valley-Sides p Part Two. Landscape e Character Areas s Bibliography

Consultees (VWXDU\VDOWPDUVKPXGÀDWV (South Essex) Appendices Unvegetated Foreshore (Mid Essex)

Open Coastal Marsh (North Essex) 30 L CONTENTS Unvegetated Foreshore location map a Preface n Executive Summary d

Landscape Framework s c Part One. Landscape c Character Types a Unvegetated p Foreshore e Inter-tidal Salt Marsh C Diverse Coastal Marshland h

Uniform Coastal a CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES Marshland * Dynamic system of muds, sands, shingle r Urban Fringe and shells between the tides a Marshland * Rich habitat for invertebrates and c River Terrace molluscs t Farmlands * Extensive feeding grounds for wildfowl e Mixed Marshland and waders; basking areas for seals e Edge * Archaeological and historic remains r * A large-scale open landscape with Rolling Clay Farmlands extensive views of estuary and coast * Big skies giving keen sense of the T Vale-Top Farmlands weather y Enclosed Valley-Sides * Sense of remoteness p Part Two. Landscape e Character Areas s Bibliography

Consultees

Appendices

31 L CONTENTS Unvegetated Foreshore location map a Preface n For South Essex (Estuary salt marsh/ revealing the long-hidden remains of Perhaps most dramatic, are the shingly Executive Summary PXGÀDWV  DQG 1RUWK (VVH[ 2SHQ ancient human activity or the more and shelly spits. Shell banks are also d Landscape Framework Coastal Marsh) the landscape types recent wreck of a working barge or found along the seaward edge of some s include all coastal or estuarine areas VPDFN 7KH UHPDLQV RI 6D[RQ ¿VK of the salt marshes up the estuaries c Part One. Landscape down to the low water mark and traps have been discovered, but are themselves, where the vast numbers Character Types where sheltered conditions have led vulnerable to damage by modern-day RIFRFNOHVDQGRWKHUVKHOO¿VKSURYLGH a Unvegetated to the build-up of sediment. boating: the wrecks of 19th-century the material for these spits. Where p Foreshore sailing barges, are gradually being the currents are strong enough, great e Inter-tidal Salt lost with each winter storm. banks of shingle interspersed with Marsh small creeks, and in places vegetated, form ridged hummocks from which C Diverse Coastal Marshland dramatic views can be had. h

Uniform Coastal a Marshland r Urban Fringe On the coastal shores themselves a Marshland LW LV SRVVLEOH WR ¿QG VPRRWK KDUG c River Terrace or pebbly sands, which can be t Farmlands The further subdivision of the landscape H[WHQVLYH DQG ÀDW RU QDUURZHU e Mixed Marshland type Unvegetated Foreshore, which and more steeply-shelving. These e Edge excludes salt marsh, is mostly found FRDVWDO ÀDWV IRUP VRPH RI WKH PRVW r in Mid Essex and refers to the entire remote, wilderness areas not only of Rolling Clay Farmlands intertidal zone between the high and Essex but Britain. Wild, potentially Most unifying of all the characteristics low marks where this has not yet been hazardous places, inaccessible to all of these shorelines is their sense T Vale-Top Farmlands colonized by vegetation, a dynamic but experienced sailors, basking seals of openness, of horizontality, with y Enclosed Valley-Sides environment that evolves in shape and and feeding waders, these are places limitless views and, in certain lights, p form season to season with changes of extraordinary natural quality. shore, sea and sky merging into one. Part Two. Landscape in the wind and tide. In fresh clear conditions the views e Character Areas are usually enhanced by the sails of s Bibliography Most characteristic of this varied small pleasure boats or the glimpse of ODQGVFDSHDUHWKHH[WHQVLYHPXGÀDWV GLVWLQFWLYHULJVRIROG¿VKLQJVPDFNV Consultees of the estuaries and creeks, often winkle brigs and the occasional Thames Appendices deeply incised by the moving tide. At barge. At night, these landscapes low tide these muds, glistening with are generally unlit and free from retreating sea water, form shimmering man-made intrusion. However the landscapes of eerie beauty, occasionally caravans, holiday homes, and small 32 L CONTENTS Unvegetated Foreshore location map a Preface n settlements that cluster locally behind Executive Summary the sea wall in some places, decrease d Landscape Framework the night-time sense of remoteness s with inappropriate lighting, and can c Part One. Landscape clutter views from the shoreline. Character Types a Unvegetated Some of the foreshores, especially in p Foreshore Mid Essex have restricted public access e Inter-tidal Salt due either to military ownership or to Marsh conservation management. Most are inaccessible without private access C Diverse Coastal Marshland from the public highway to the sea h wall or to a boat. Even though there Uniform Coastal a Marshland are few pleasure craft for hire or charter around the Essex shores, r Urban Fringe inappropriate usage of the creeks and a Marshland shorelines can still be a problem. c River Terrace t Farmlands Jet skis have the potential to disturb t e Mixed Marshland wildlife and damage fragile ecosystems e Edge and are still used to explore isolated r channels though they are supposed to Rolling Clay Farmlands be restricted, especially within SSSI limits. T Vale-Top Farmlands y Enclosed Valley-Sides p Part Two. Landscape e Character Areas s Bibliography

Consultees

Appendices

33 U n v e g e t a t e d

F o r e s h o r KEY ISSUES * Danger of pollution of intertidal habitat e * Disturbance of habitat by inappropriate recreation * Loss of traditional commercial maritime trade and distinctive sailing craft * Erosion of diversity and distinctiveness of seaside beach huts * Need for recording or conservation of archaeological and historic features * Restricted access * Views inland cluttered by scattered development * Night-time remoteness damaged by lighting at urban fringes

34 SECTION CHARACTER AREA Aveley, Wennington, Rainham marshes AVELEY MARSHES SECTION L CONTENTS Tilbury, Mucking and Fobbing marshes a SOUTH ESSEX Chadwell and West Tilbury Preface n MUCKING / CANVEY SECTION W. Canvey / Shellhaven Executive Summary d &DQYH\%HQÀHHW Landscape Framework s Crouch Estuary and Foulness Archipelago Part One. Landscape c Character Types FOULNESS ARCHIPELAGO SECTION Rochford Mixed Farmlands a Part Two. Landscape River Roach p Character Areas Canewdon Sloping Claylands e Introduction to the RIVER CROUCH SECTION River Crouch Historic Landscape C Characterisation Burham Sloping Claylands Dengie Coastlands h Landscape Character MID ESSEX DENGIE PENINSULA SECTION a Areas Tillingham Ancient Farmlands r Dengie Ancient Claylands Bibliography a Consultees Upper Blackwater Estuary c Appendices Lower Blackwater Estuary RIVER BLACKWATER SECTION t Maldon Mixed Farmlands e Tollesbury Rolling Farmlands r Tollesbury Coastalnds Mersea Island A Colchester Claylands and Marshlands r e Lower Roman River a ST OSYTH SECTION Lower Colne Estuary s Upper Colne Estuary NORTH Brightlingsea Enclosed Valelands ESSEX Brightlingsea Flag Creek St Osyth Coastlands Holland Coastlands THE NAZE SECTION Hamford Water 74 Stour Estuary L a n d s c a North Essex – (Tendring) p River Colne to St Osyth e St Osyth to The Naze & River Stour C h a r a c t e r

Mid Essex – (Foulness and Dengie) A Foulness Archipelago River Crouch r Dengie Peninsula e River Blackwater a s

South Essex – (Thames Gateway) Aveley Marshes to Mucking Flats Mucking Flats to Canvey Island & Southend 75 Landscape Character Areas L CONTENTS a Preface n The Essex coast falls principally in the Greater Thames •heritage features of architectural, historical and Executive Summary (VWXDU\ FKDUDFWHU DUHD LGHQWL¿HG E\ WKH &RXQWU\VLGH archaeological interest– including an introduction to the d Landscape Framework Agency. The area described here extends landwards only process of Historic Landscape Characterisation (outlined s ZKHUHWKHUHDUHVLJQL¿FDQWYLVXDOWRSRJUDSKLFDORUFXOWXUDO EULHÀ\ LQ D V\QWKHVLV RI ZKDW FDQ QRZ EH VKRZQ XVLQJ c Part One. Landscape relationships with the coast. The broad South Essex, Mid these methods) Character Types (VVH[ DQG 1RUWK (VVH[ JURXSLQJV DUH ORRVHO\ GH¿QHG a Part Two. Landscape – and take account of geographical rather than district Consideration of these features would provide the basis p Character Areas boundaries. for possible future Heritage Coast status. e Introduction to the %XW ¿UVW D EULHI LQWURGXFWLRQ WR WKH SURFHVV RI +LVWRULF Historic Landscape C Characterisation Local Character Areas Landscape Characterisation by Lynn Dyson-Bruce. An HLC has not been carried out on every character area. h Landscape Character Thirty distinct character areas have been highlighted along a Areas the Essex Coast. r Bibliography (DFK ORFDO /DQGVFDSH &KDUDFWHU DUHD LV GH¿QHG DV D a Consultees geographical entity, based on cultural and historical c associations rather than the physical associations, which Appendices t link the landscape types. Each local character area listed below is mapped and described. Reference is made to: e r ‡VSHFL¿FLVVXHVZKLFKUHODWHWRWKHFRQVHUYDWLRQSURWHFWLRQ and enhancement of the natural beauty of the coast A •the landscape type or types they contain r e •the ecological value of each area, in terms of the designated areas and habitat types a s •public accessibility in the form of country parks, long distance walks and nature reserves. As public accessibility is a key objective, where access to country parks, long distance walks and nature reserves exist they are noted. Many of these sites are owned or managed by Essex County Council, , the RSPB or the National Trust 76 Introduction to the process of Historic Landscape Characterisation L CONTENTS a Preface n A synthesis of what is known about HLC attempts to redress this imbalance The unitary authorities of Thurrock, Executive Summary the landscape can now be shown by assessing the rural landscape Southend-on-Sea and Peterborough d Landscape Framework through a process called Historic from the point of view of its historic have also been included. s Landscape Characterisation (HLC). origins. It is meant to be a ‘broad- c Part One. Landscape HLC is a relatively new approach brush’ approach and represents the Methodology Character Types to a study of the landscape within ¿UVW DWWHPSW E\ DUFKDHRORJLVWV WR The HLC uses readily available a Part Two. Landscape Archaeology. The methodology has understand and record the landscape sources (mainly maps), which must p Character Areas been developed from that used in in such a manner. The HLC assesses be universally available across the e the Landscape Character Assessment the entire landscape and does not region. These comprise current OS Introduction to the (LCA) process. concentrate on ‘important’ areas nor maps; the 1950 OS series and the Historic Landscape C Characterisation DWWDFK GHJUHHV RI YDOXH WR VSHFL¿F 1st edition OS (mid-19th century). Part of the reason for the development areas: it is universal in approach. 7KHVHVRXUFHVUHÀHFWSULPHFKDQJHV h Landscape Character of HLC was due to a perceived within the landscape and are a Areas imbalance between the information In England, English Heritage (EH) available across the region – either that heritage records indicate and spearheaded this approach in 1995 as paper or in digital form. The HLC r Bibliography WKH UHDOLW\ RQ WKH JURXQG UHÀHFWLQJ in Cornwall (Herring 1996). The UHFRUGV QRW RQO\ WKH IRUPV RI ¿HOG a Consultees a change of focus from ‘sites’ to methodology has developed over the systems and their historic origin c ‘landscapes’. Until recently heritage years, and application in England is but change within the landscape. Appendices t records – the Sites and Monuments approaching 50%. The coverage is Seminal landscape changes since Record (SMR) now Heritage by county; the HLC being applied 1950 in the post-Second World War e Environment Records (HER) - formed in partnership between EH and the years appear due to mechanisation, r the primary resource for heritage county involved. (See English Heritage changes in farming practice and management. Yet, no matter how website – characterisation, for further socio-economic/political reforms excellent this resource, it is biased and information) (e.g. CAP). The 1st edition records A OLPLWHG UHÀHFWLQJ FXUUHQW DQG SDVW the effects of the Parliamentary Acts r areas of interest. Where development HLC – and other 19th century agricultural e control has taken place along a by- As part of this national initiative reforms – unfortunately earlier maps pass, for example, a concentration EH, in conjunction with the relevant and sources are parish based and a of SMR/HER records leads to a linear local authorities, initiated an East of thus there is no consistent coverage s FRQFHQWUDWLRQ RI LQIRUPDWLRQ D ¿QH England regional project. Started across the counties. However further UHÀHFWLRQ RI ZRUN EXW QRW RI WKH in 1998 in Suffolk, it is now nearing UHVHDUFKFRXOG¿OOLQWKLVLQIRUPDWLRQ true potential of the archaeological FRPSOHWLRQ ¿QLVKLQJ ZLWK 1RUIRON on a parish rather than county base, or historical content within the where work began in 2004. The six creating a more detailed, if patchy surrounding landscape. Current counties involved in this project are resource. trends tend to look at heritage and Bedfordshire, Cambridgeshire, Essex, culture at a total landscape level. Hertfordshire, Norfolk and Suffolk. 77 Introduction to the process of Historic Landscape Characterisation L CONTENTS a Preface n The HLC is now a digital record within a smaller scale than HLC. HLC and Essex Executive Summary Geographic Information System (GIS) The HLC in Essex is still under review, d Landscape Framework i.e. intelligent digital mapping. This The HLC process has informed various currently being audited and edited, s enables much complex information to national LCA’s as well as those within with reports coming out in late 2005. c Part One. Landscape be attached to the map and has been the East of England. However initial analysis has indicated Character Types fundamental in the development and several major trends within the a Part Two. Landscape success of HLC. HLC & SAIL landscape. p Character Areas For the purposes of this SAIL project e Past landscapes and forms of a few ideas have been illustrated here In general the Essex landscape has Introduction to the management may help inform future to show how HLC information may be early origins. The majority of Essex Historic Landscape C Characterisation management strategies, providing used and applied. is ‘anciently’ enclosed as described by guidance in conservation, preservation, Rackham. h Landscape Character restoration or in ways to develop new 7KH 6$,/ SURMHFW ¿WV ZLWKLQ WKH a Areas 21st century landscapes. broader remit of LCA and the HLC •Link here to map showing Ancient can inform the SAIL project as to Countryside in Thames Gateway r Bibliography HLC & LCA the historic origins of the wider HLCA a Consultees The origins of HLC lie in LCA, in both landscape. The HLC enables smaller c approach and methodology. LCAs units of focus such as Special Sites of But there are traces of Parliamentary Appendices t assess landscapes with regard to 6FLHQWL¿F,QWHUHVW 666,V 6FKHGXOHG style enclosure in the north, as seen topography, aspect, visual criteria, Monuments(SM),Conservation on the Chilterns, which rationalised e building types/forms etc. whereas Areas, Special Areas of Conservation WKHODUJHFRPPRQDUDEOH¿HOGVXQGHU r HLCs assess landscape as to its (SACs), Special Protection Area strip cultivation, and there are other historic origins. Although the original (SPAs) etc. to be placed within their small pockets of enclosed grazing methodology is derived from LCA, HLC wider historic context. This may help commons across the county. A is now developing its own approach inform how they have come about or r and methodology. how they may best be managed to The balance of the county can be e ensure their future survival. One can divided into a broad north-east to •For further information you can link assess past management strategies south-west division roughly along a here to the English Heritage website and /or impacts upon these smaller the A12. North of this, various forms s www.english-heritage.org.uk landscape components, which may RI SUHWK FHQWXU\ LUUHJXODU ¿HOG KDYHVLJQL¿FDQFHHLWKHULQHFRORJLFDO systems predominate, thought to be Both approaches are complementary: or historic terms. Their historic mainly arable. To the south a range the HLC attempts to inform LCA about development may have contributed RIYDULRXVFRD[LDO¿HOGV\VWHPVDOVR historic development in parallel with to their current status, form and pre-18th century, are paramount and the natural environment. The scale designation. these are thought to be predominantly may differ – LCA is often studied at a grazing. The origins of both are 78 Introduction to the process of Historic Landscape Characterisation L CONTENTS a Preface n thought to be early, some mediaeval As an initial indicative study various •Coastal change – erosion, changes in Executive Summary or earlier. ‘key-holes’ or scenarios have been drainage – pre-18th century curvilinear d Landscape Framework selected to illustrate key landscape and 19th century rectilinear s It is important to remember that East forms in terms of historic development c Part One. Landscape Anglia has been the grain bowl for the DQG VLJQL¿FDQFH ± UDWKHU DNLQ WR •Coastal exploitation – saltings, Character Types UK for centuries and was in the past ‘keyhole’ surgery - to afford small oyster beds, ports a Part Two. Landscape one of the most densely populated windows looking into or out of the p Character Areas and intensively farmed areas in the landscape to inform wider initiatives. •Agricultural change and diversity e UK, although current and recent rural It is hoped that in the future these Introduction to the depopulation would attest otherwise. ‘key-holes’ or scenarios will be ‡'LYHUVH¿HOGV\VWHPVDQGGLVWLQFWLYH Historic Landscape C Characterisation expanded in number, nature and form patterns of enclosure Since the Second World War there to provide more diverse applications h Landscape Character have been radical changes across the and interpretations of the landscape •Most enclosure is very early – pre- a Areas county: agrarian changes have meant in historic terms. 18th century in origin many alterations within the landscape r Bibliography LQWKHIRUPRI¿HOGERXQGDU\ORVVRU In the selection of HLC examples ‡5HFHQW FKDQJHV LQ ¿HOG ERXQGDULHV a Consultees gain. But the over-riding factor is that here, a few ideas will be highlighted – losses and gains since the 1950s c the inherent historic character and showing how the historic background Appendices t form of enclosure still holds true and of the coastal regions in Essex can •Woodlands - a mix of ancient dominates more recent change. be demonstrated in HLC terms. woodlands with limited small more e The history is complex: much has recent plantations r There has also been much urban and changed socially, economically and industrial development within the topographically, by erosion. county. This includes urban expansion A of current settlements such as The common themes within the HLC r Southend-on-Sea, or new towns such are those of: e as . Industrial and commercial development for example in Thurrock •Urban expansion since 1st edition a made use of former gravel extraction maps – primarily since the Second s areas with development taking place World War on reclaimed lands. •Industrial expansion and development Case Studies - primarily since the Second World War Case studies will attempt to place the dynamics of change within the •Increased mineral exploitation in landscape into some form of context. recent years 79 0LG(VVH[&RDVW / &217(176 a 3UHIDFe Dengie Peninsula - Historic Landscape Characterisation n ([HFXWLYH6XPPDUy /DQGVFDSH)UDPHZRUN d 7KH 'HQJLH LV D YHU\ VLJQL¿FDQW VLPLODUO\ ZKHQ RQH DGGV WKH 3DUW2QH/DQGVFDSH DUHD LQ KLVWRULF WHUPV ZKLFK LQ WK FHQWXU\ FKDQJHV 7KH SDOH s &KDUDFWHU7\SHV FRQMXQFWLRQZLWKWKHQHLJKERXULQJ JUHHQV UHSUHVHQWLQJ WKHVH HDUO\ F PaUW7ZR/DQGVFDSH DUHD RI WKH 5LYHU &URXFK SHULRGV RI FRDVWDO GUDLQDJH DUH a &KDUDFWHU$UHDV UHSUHVHQWV WKH FRUH DUHD RI D OLPLWHG WR WKHVH ORZ O\LQJ DUHDV KLJKO\GLVWLQFWLYHIRUPRIHQFORVXUH 7KHVH DUHDV ODUJHO\ FRQIRUP WR p ,QWURGXFWLRQWR+/& ±DFRD[LDOSDWWHUQWKDWQRWRQO\ WKH 6/$ WXUTXRLVH RXWOLQH  7KH e /DQGVFDSH&KDUDFWHU UXQV(:EXW16DVZHOO±IRUPLQJ 5DPVDUDQG666,VLWHVDUHRQWKH $UHDV DEORFNW\SHSDWWHUQRIHQFORVXUH OLWWRUDOFRDVW±DQGLPSLQJHRQWKH & 6RXWK(VVH[&RDVW 7KLV SDWWHUQ KDV DQ HDUO\ GDWH XQLPSURYHG VWULS RI ODQG UXQQLQJ h 0LG(VVH[&RDVW VRPH WKLQN SRVVLEO\ GDWLQJ WR DORQJ WKH FRDVW ± WKH VOLJKWO\ WKH5RPDQSHULRG±UHSUHVHQWLQJ GDUNHUROLYH a •&URXFK(VWXDU\ 5RPDQ&HQWXULDWLRQ DQG)RXOQHVV r ‡5RFKIRUG0L[HG 2Q WKH FXUUHQW +/& PDS ± WKH )DUPODQGV ,WVWUXHRULJLQVDUHGLVSXWHG±EXW ODUJH SDOH SLQN DUHD LQ WKH QRUWK a ‡5LYHU5RDFK LWLVDFFHSWHGWKDWWKHVHUHSUHVHQW UHSUHVHQWVRQHRIWKH6HFRQG:RUOG WK&HQWXU\ F ‡&DQHZGRQ6ORSLQJ &OD\ODQGV DQ HDUO\ IRUP RI HQFORVXUH :DUDLU¿HOGVZKLFKDUHVFDWWHUHG W ‡5LYHU&URXFK  SDWWHUQ DQG PD\ HYHQ GDWH IURP DFURVV WKH (VVH[ FRXQWU\VLGH LQ ‡%XUKDP6ORSLQJ e &OD\ODQGV  SUHKLVWRU\ :KDW LV VLJQL¿FDQW YDULRXVIRUPVRISUHVHUYDWLRQ ‡'HQJLH&RDVWODQGs LQ WKLV DUHD LV WKDW WKLV IRUP RI r ‡7LOOLQJKDP$QFLHQW HQFORVXUHLVOLPLWHGWRWKHKLJKHU )DUPODQGV  GULHU ODQG ZLWK HDUO\ DQG ODWHU ‡'HQJLH$QFLHQW $ &OD\ODQGV IRUPVRIGUDLQDJHDQGUHFODPDWLRQ ‡8SSHU%ODFNZDWHU LQWKHORZO\LQJDUHDV7KHDUHDE\ r (VWXDU\ ‡/RZHU%ODFNZDWHU %UDGZHOORQ6HDLOOXVWUDWHVFOHDUO\ e (VWXDU\ WKHFKDQJHLQHQFORVXUHSDWWHUQ± a ‡0DOGRQ0L[HG WKHFRD[LDO¿HOGVRQWKHµKLJKODQG¶ )DUPODQGV s ‡7ROOHVEXU\5ROOLQJ DQG VLQXRXV DQG ODWHU GUDLQDJH )DUPODQGV SDWWHUQVRQWKHORZODQGV  ‡7ROOHVEXU\  &RDVWODQGV + :KHQRQHLOOXVWUDWHVWKHFRQWRXUV / 1RUWK(VVH[&RDVW ZLWK WKH SUHWK  FHQWXU\  +/& W\SHV WKH UHOHYDQFH RI KRZ & %LEOLRJUDSKy &RQVXOWHHs HQFORVXUH SDWWHUQV DUH UHODWHG $SSHQGLFHs ZLWKWRSRJUDSK\LVDSSDUHQW &XUUHQW+/& WK&HQWXU\  Mid Essex Coast L CONTENTS a Preface Dengie Coastlands detailed maps n Executive Summary Landscape Framework It was wide-open country. The silence d SPECIFIC ISSUES: Part One. Landscape of the place was thick and palpable; s Character Types WKH OHYHO VZHHS RI ¿HOGV XQGHU D JLDQW Lighting and future use of Bradwell c sky made it feel oddly suspended and power station in north of area. Part Two. Landscape Access to sea wall from the public a Character Areas provisional, a shimmering trick of the light. highway. p Introduction to HLC e This thin, pale water didn’t look like sea, LANDSCAPE TYPES: Landscape Character Unvegetated foreshore Areas and nor did the land around it look like Inter-tidal salt marsh South Essex Coast ODQG,WZDVZLGHRSHQÀDWDQGERJJ\ C only by a few degrees less liquid in its Diverse coastal marshland h Mid Essex Coast constituency than the stuff which was Uniform coastal marshland a •Crouch Estuary RI¿FLDOO\ GHVLJQDWHG DV ZDWHU RQ WKH and Foulness Generally: This large distinctive character chart. ECOLOGICAL DESIGNATIONS: r •Rochford Mixed Dengie SSSI, Ramsar site and Farmlands area extends from the small remnant Jonathan Raban, 1987 a •River Roach of marshland east of Bradwell to the Special Protection Area, Essex c •Canewdon Sloping broad tracts of polder several miles in Generally settlement is not characteristic Estuaries candidate Special Area of Claylands Conservation, Coastal Protection Belt, t •River Crouch extent between Burnham and the sea. of the diverse coastal marshland, but •Burham Sloping It includes the fringing salt marshes and scattered established farmsteads such Special Landscape Areas e Claylands the broad sweeps of the Dengie Flats as Middlewick and Turncole farms, are •Dengie Coastlands r HERITAGE FEATURES: •Tillingham Ancient and Ray Sand, which at low tide forces found within the older marshlands on Farmlands all but boats of the shallowest draft well Dengie, well below the 5m AOD level, Decoy ponds, red hills, intertidal •Dengie Ancient remains, crop marks, pill boxes, A Claylands offshore. with private lanes and tracks linking one counter-walls and boundaries •Upper Blackwater to another. r Estuary 7KH ¿JXUHV IRU VDOW PDUVK ORVV LQ WKH e •Lower Blackwater ACCESS: Estuary UHFHQWSDVWDUHVLJQL¿FDQW±DORVV The boundary between the uniform St Peter’s Way National Trail a •Maldon Mixed was measured between 1973 and 1988 marshland and the more diverse coastal Farmlands on the Dengie peninsula, where the marshland is generally aligned along the s •Tollesbury Rolling Farmlands average rate of retreat during this period change in soil type from the good quality •Tollesbury was an alarming 2.6m per year. New silts of the uniform marshland, to the Coastlands methods to prevent further loss include harder-to-work clays of the older diverse North Essex Coast use of wave-breaks such as the Thames marshland, much of which remained as Lighters at Sales Point and near Marsh grassland until the Second World War. 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iliography B CONTENTS i Preface b Baring-Gould, Sabine, 1880 Firstsite Gallery, Colchester (quote by Newell, Martin and Dodds, James, Executive Summary ‘Mehalah: A Story of the Salt Ronald Blythe), 2000 1997 l Landscape Framework Marshes’ µ7KLVÀDWHDUWK±$UWRIWKH(DVW ‘The Wild Man of Wivenhoe’ i Anglian Landscape’ Part One. Landscape o Character Types g Benham, Hervey, 1948 Raban, Jonathan, 1987 Part Two. Landscape ‘The Last Stronghold of Sail’ GULI¿WKV0DXULFH ‘Coasting’ r Character Areas ‘Magic of the Swatchways’ a Bibliography p Defoe, D., 1724-6 Sagar, Peter, 1994 Consultees ‘A tour through the whole island of Hunter, John, 1997 ‘East Anglia’ h Appendices Great Britain’ (reprinted in 1971, ‘The Essex Landscape’ y Harmondsworth: Penguin) Smith, J.R., 1970 John Betjeman, 1954 ‘Foulness, A History of an Essex English Heritage, 1996 ‘Essex’ Island’ ‘England’s Coastal Heritage’

Maldon District Council and Colchester Soil Survey of England and Wales English Nature, 1999 Borough Council, 1996 ‘Soil map of England and Wales; ‘The Essex coast; beyond 2000’ ‘Blackwater Estuary Management South East England 1:250,000’ Plan’

Essex County Council and Essex Strachan, David, 1998 Coastal Districts, 1994 Nature Conservancy Council, 1992 ‘Essex from the air: archaeology & ‘Essex Coastal Strategy’ ‘Research and Survey in Nature history from aerial photographs’ Conservation No. 42; Erosion and vegetation change on the salt Essex County Council, 1999 marshes of Essex and North Kent Winsor, Terry, 2000 ‘The Essex Landscape: in search of EHWZHHQDQG¶ ‘Essex Boys’ (the movie) history’

Newell, Martin, 1999 Essex County Council, 1998 ‘Black Shuck; The Ghost Dog of ‘Draft Deposit Plan’ Eastern England’

145 Consultees C CONTENTS o Preface n Executive Summary Blackwater Project s Landscape Framework u BNFL at Bradwell power station Part One. Landscape l Character Types Colchester Borough Council t Part Two. Landscape e Character Areas Countryside Agency e Bibliography s DERA (Ministry of Defence) at Consultees Shoeburyness

Appendices English Nature

Environment Agency

Essex Estuaries Project

Essex Wildlife Trust

Farming and Wildlife Advisory Group

Castlepoint District Council

Maldon District Council

Rochford District Council

Southend-on-Sea District Council

Tendring District Council

Thurrock District Council

SAIL

146