Boston a Été Confiée À Annie ­Gilbert

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Boston a Été Confiée À Annie ­Gilbert Extrait de la publication Derrière les mots La mise à jour du guide Ulysse Boston a été confiée à Annie Gilbert. À la suite de ses études en tourisme, Annie a occupé plusieurs fonctions chez Ulysse. Elle a commencé comme libraire, pour ensuite se joindre à l’équipe des éditions où ses connaissances approfondies sont essentielles à la qualité de nos guides. Annie Gilbert Native de l’Abitibi, elle aime bien se retrou- ver sur un lac à pêcher tranquillement, mais aussi parcourir les boutiques branchées de Paris, New York et Londres. Annie a aussi contribué à la mise à jour des guides Ulysse Croisières dans les Caraïbes, Hawaii, On va où aujourd’hui?, Ouest cana- dien, Le Québec et Ville de Québec. Extrait de la publication 3 Theatre District, Chinatown, South End Attraits touristiques 5 Index 11 Extrait de la publication guidesulysse.com 4 umulant les titres de capitale de l’État du Massachusetts, de métropole économique de la Nouvelle-Angleterre et de centre intellectuel des C États-Unis, Boston affiche fièrement sa personnalité unique, issue d’un croisement entre la Londres georgienne, sobre et réservée, et l’Amé- rique de Kennedy, avant-gardiste et prospère. De la première, elle a hérité son look européen, son plan radioconcentrique et ses nom- breux quartiers à l’échelle humaine. Quant à la seconde, elle lui a inspiré l’audace de son architecture et, surtout, la tranquille assurance de ses citadins. Bien avant New York et Los Angeles, Boston, fondée dès 1630 par un petit groupe de puri- tains, a été le principal port d’entrée des États-Unis. Cette ville côtière, bordant directement l’océan Atlantique, a graduellement délaissé les activités à caractère maritime, aujourd’hui presque accessoires, pour se tourner vers la recherche et la haute technologie qui font maintenant ses choux gras. À travers ses rues étroites et sinueuses, bordées de maisons patriciennes des XVIIIe et XIXe siècles, le visiteur découvre que les États-Unis ont un passé riche et complexe qui procède d’une réflexion nettement plus profonde que celle offerte par le dernier succès d’Hollywood. Introduction - Theatre District, Chinatown, South End Theatre Extrait de la publication guidesulysse.com 5 Washington Street est considérée comme Theatre District, la plus importante artère commerciale du Chinatown centre de Boston. Ses intersections avec Summer Street et Winter Street forment un et South End carrefour très achalandé appelé Downtown Crossing , où sont regroupés des dizaines de boutiques de même que quelques grands 0 une demi-journée magasins. Une portion des trois rues a été transformée en mail piétonnier (1979) fré- À ne pas manquer quenté par de nombreux marchands ambu- h Boston Center for the h Citi Performing Arts lants. Le mail contribue à la réputation de Arts p. 9 Center p. 6 convivialité de Boston à l’égard des piétons, h Downtown Crossing h Chinatown p. 8 ce qui lui a valu le surnom de Walkable City p. 5 (la ville qui se marche). On évitera cepen- Les bonnes adresses dant de s’y promener seul après la fermeture Restaurants des magasins. h Aquitaine h Hamersley’s Bistro h Toro h The Butcher Shop Les impasses de Boston recèlent plusieurs h Pho Pasteur secrets. Par exemple, au fond d’Hamilton Achats Place, se cache l’Orpheum Theater h Downtown Crossing h Salumeria Italiana (Hamilton Place, accès par Winter St., 617- Après avoir parcouru les quartiers les plus 679-0810), première salle de concerts du visités de Boston grâce aux quatre premiers Boston Symphony Orchestra, érigée dès circuits, pourquoi ne pas sortir des sentiers 1852. Tchaïkovski en personne y a joué, en e District, Chinatown et South End battus ? Le présent circuit propose un trajet première mondiale, son célèbre Concerto pour piano no 1 en 1875, et Oscar Wilde y a à travers les secteurs où vit et travaille le Theatr présenté ses premières créations théâtrales Bostonien de tous les jours. Ces quartiers, moins prisés des touristes, plus permissifs en en 1892. Cette salle de 2 800 places, autre- - ce qui a trait au zonage, donc moins parfaits, fois connue sous le nom de Music Hall, est présentent néanmoins un intérêt indéniable devenue l’un des principaux temples nord- pour le visiteur curieux. américains de la musique rock. On se penchera d’abord sur Downtown Au sud de West Street se trouve le secteur Crossing, où les travailleurs du Financial qu’on surnommait autrefois la Combat District voisin font leurs achats à l’heure Zone (délimitée par Washington St., du lunch, pour ensuite explorer le Theatre Tremont St., West St. et Stuart St.), enclave District, qui nous donne une leçon de lit- aux mœurs douteuses implantée, rappe- térature obligée, lorsque l’on se sait sur lons-le, au milieu d’une ville puritaine à les traces d’un Edgar Allan Poe ou d’un souhait. Outre les bars d’effeuilleuses et les Oscar Wilde, avant de se diriger vers le salons de massage, on trouvait autrefois Chinatown, qui, sans avoir l’envergure dans ce secteur des cabarets où étaient du quartier chinois de San Francisco, présentés des concerts rock bien arrosés, témoigne d’un multiculturalisme surpre- qui se terminaient fréquemment par des nant en Nouvelle-Angleterre. On gagnera affrontements avec la police, d’où ce nom finalement le South End, ce vaste quartier étrange et belliqueux donné au secteur. Cet victorien aménagé sur des remblais où ancien quartier chaud de Boston a perdu dominent le rouge-orangé de la brique et beaucoup de son intensité depuis la fin le vert foncé du feuillage des arbres cen- des années 1970. tenaires. Le Boston Opera House (539 Washington District, Chinatown, South End Theatre 137 Le circuit débute à la sortie de la station St., www.bostonoperahouse.com), dont le Downtown Crossing du T, angle Winter Street et splendide intérieur néobaroque a été des- Washington Street. siné en 1928 par le champion des décora- teurs de salles de cinéma nord-américaines, Extrait de la publication guidesulysse.com 6 Thomas Lamb, marque l’entrée du Theatre À l’angle de Tremont Street, on peut voir District , où sont regroupés une dou- la belle façade en terre cuite beige du zaine de cinémas et de théâtres majeurs qui Cutler Majestic Theatre (219 Tremont ont fait les beaux jours de la vie culturelle St., 617-824-8000, www.maj.org), restauré en Nouvelle-Angleterre. Interdit jusqu’en par l’Emerson College for the Arts à la fin 1805, le théâtre demeure suspect à Boston du siècle dernier et qui fait partie du Citi jusqu’en... 1975, année où les censeurs Performing Arts Center (voir ci-dessous). cessent finalement de hanter les salles à la Ce théâtre de 1 200 places est réputé pour recherche de détails croustillants leur per- son acoustique. On aperçoit aussi dans les mettant d’interdire telle ou telle pièce. On environs le Wilbur Theatre (246 Tremont ira même jusqu’à affubler le premier théâtre St, 617-931-2000, thewilburtheatre.com), bostonien du nom de « musée », pour ne pas construit en 1914 dans le style Federal choquer la bonne société ! Revival. 13 Tournez à droite dans Essex Street, qui prend Le Citi Performing Arts Center (617- le nom de Boylston Street au-delà de Tremont 482-9393, www.citicenter. org) comprend le Street. Cutler Majestic Theatre (voir plus haut) et Le Colonial Theatre (106 Boylston St., deux théâtres qui se font face, le Shubert 617-482-9393, www.bostonscolonialtheatre. Theatre (265 Tremont St.) et le Wang com), construit en 1900 selon les plans de Theatre (270 Tremont St.), installé dans l’an- Clarence Blackball et de H.B. Pennell, est cien Metropolitan Theatre. Cette vaste salle sans contredit la plus élégante salle de spec- multifonctionnelle de plus de 3 600 places, tacle de toute la ville. Son foyer de style précédée d’un foyer haut de cinq étages, e District, Chinatown et South End Louis XV, d’un luxe inouï, est orné à profu- dont le style s’inspire du Palais Garnier à sion de dorures et de toiles marouflées. Il Paris, et de quatre vestibules revêtus à pro- fusion de marbres et de dorures, illustre à Theatr faut toutefois noter qu’on ne devine rien de merveille la vigueur de la vie culturelle à tout cela de l’extérieur. Ce théâtre de près - de 1 700 places places sert fréquemment de Boston dans l’entre-deux-guerres. Sorte de banc d’essai pour les comédies musicales trait d’union entre le Theatre District et le qui prendront éventuellement l’affiche à Chinatown voisin, cet ancien monument du Broadway. septième art a été entièrement restauré. Un peu plus loin se trouve la plaque qui Contrairement à d’autres villes nord-amé- marque le lieu de naissance de l’écrivain ricaines, qui ont vu disparaître plusieurs Edgar Allan Poe (1809-1849) (angle Boylston chefs-d’œuvre du genre, Boston a misé St. et Edgar Allan Poe Place). Fils d’acteurs sur la conservation de ses vieux cinémas miséreux, David et Betty Poe, l’auteur de La et théâtres. Elle en récolte aujourd’hui les Chute de la Maison Usher et du Scarabée fruits, en attirant un public cultivé et fortuné d’or reviendra souvent à Boston au cours venu de partout aux États-Unis. de sa vie tumultueuse. 13 Traversez Tremont Street afin d’emprun- 13 ter Stuart Street, qui prend ensuite le nom de Tournez à gauche dans Charles Street, puis de Kneeland Street. Tournez à gauche dans Harrison nouveau à gauche dans Stuart Street. Avenue afin de pénétrer au cœur du Chinatown. ATTRAITS TOURISTIQUES 1. AV Washington Street 12. BV Chinatown Gate 2.
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