What's Inside

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STITCH RECIPE • SewEasyFashion • Serge ItOnce,Serge • Stitch Recipe:Painted • RagstoRiches • Felting Fun…Options • PleasantPeasant • WinterWhite • BERNINA • FromFibertoFabric • ApronsRevisited • NestedStarsQuilt What’s Inside Twice Stitches for NeedleFelting Show -Magniﬁ ® Fashion que!

SOFTWARE PAGE 15 PAGE 4 PM 10/12/06 12:36:16 PM CCover_Pg3.inddover_Pg3.indd 2 110/12/060/12/06 112:36:302:36:30 PMPM tablecontents of

NESTED STARS QUILT 4 Create this “quilt of many stars” using Jackie Robinson’s cutting and piecing techniques. Make it come to life with free-motion quilting using the BERNINA® Stitch Regulator.

APRONS REVISITED 10 Aprons are making a big comeback as a kitchen essential! From whipping up an everyday meal to entertaining dinner guests, make a statement with a fabulous everyday apron, a fancy embellished Holiday apron, or a fussy special occasion kitchen frock! 54

FROM FIBER TO FABRIC 13 Create your own multihued fabric by stitching glorious threads, wool roving, and decorative ﬁ bers together using your BERNINA® embroidery system. Two project ideas including a FREE design!

BERNINA FASHION SHOW - MAGNIFIQUE! 15 The 2006 BERNINA® Fashion Show, Magniﬁ que! showcases thirty-nine inno- vative designers who bring their visions to life for your viewing pleasure!

WINTER WHITE 42 What a wonderful combination – winter white and lace! Turn an ordinary unlined jacket into a spectacular creation with the simple addition of lace edging using designs from the Expressive Lace Collection by Marie Osmond, Lace Up Your Life Vol. 1.

PLEASANT PEASANT 44 This simple peasant-style top is actually a lightweight, feminine jacket that completes almost any outﬁ t from jeans to sundresses. Use a few BERNINA® techniques to make the process easy and add a decorative stitch recipe down the front for a touch of color. 10

Managing Editor/Creative Director FELTING FUN...OPTIONS FOR NEEDLE FELTING Susan Beck 46 See the latest felting ideas from Indygo Junction using the BERNINA® Needle Punch Accessory Set – purses, jacket, vests – all easy to embellish with felting! Contributing Editor Jill Danklefsen RAGS TO RICHES 48 Transform a thrift store ﬁ nd into an elegant evening ensemble using simple Through The Needle is published ﬁ ve times ® embroidery techniques and feathers! a year by BERNINA of America, Inc. for machine stitchers and embroiderers of all types and all skill levels. No portion of this STITCH RECIPE: PAINTED STITCHES publication may be reproduced in any form 50 Create simple stitch recipes by combining decorative stitches from your without prior written permission of the BERNINA® machine with fabric markers for rich, colorful embellishments. publisher.

® SERGE IT ONCE, SERGE IT TWICE Bernina of America, Inc. 3702 Prairie Lake Court 54 Push the creative limits of your serger beyond the basic clean ﬁ nished seams Aurora, IL 60504 and speedy piecing to create this classic linen camisole with added embroi- Phone: 630-978-2500 dery and serger stitch embellishments. Website: www.berninausa.com E-mail: [email protected] SEW EASY FASHION 57 Be your own fashion designer! Making garments is rewarding because you For subscription information, contact: are not limited to the colors and styles available in ready-to-wear and you QRI Subscription Department, 3702 Prairie Lake Ct, Aurora, IL 60504-6182 can have something that is uniquely yours. BERNINA® sewing machines offer

several features and specialty feet that make creating fun! Printed in the U.S.A.

Cover_Pg3.indd 3 10/12/06 12:36:45 PM CONTRIBUTORS

JACKIE ROBINSON A former quilt shop owner, Jackie lives in NW Montana and is the owner of Animas Quilts Publishing. An international teacher and lecturer, Jackie has authored twelve quilting books. She has made over 400 quilts and is best known for her geometric patterns, creating new and expanded designs from traditional shapes.

NANCY BEDNAR Nancy is a BERNINA® Educator and is co-author of The Encyclopedia of Sew- ing Machine Techniques. Her newest book is Creative Serging: A Comprehensive Guide.

ERIKA FRITZERALD Erika inherited a love of art from her mother, who encouraged her creativity at a young age through sewing and painting. Eager to explore all aspects of art, she earned a BA in General Studio Arts before continuing on to complete a BFA majoring in Fiber Arts. Currently employed with BERNINA® of America, Erika’s garments are playfully inspired by her extensive collection 46 of vintage and antique sewing patterns. AMY BARICKMAN Amy Barickman, founder and owner of Indygo Junction, Inc., and The Vintage Workshop, grew up in the retail crafting business and is today a leader in the quilt and clothing pattern craft industry. She started Indygo Junction in 1990 to showcase the talent of leading craft designers. She began The Vintage Workshop in 2002 to create products that combine the timeless beauty of vintage artwork with the remarkable accessibility of the computer and inkjet printable materials.

SPANKY RYKIEL Spanky, who dreams of sewing and embroidery 24/7, retired 13 years ago after 30 years as a Quality Assurance Engineer and Organizational Develop- ment Consultant. She now lives her 24/7 dream as The BERNINA® Manager for Bear’s Paw Fabrics Inc. in Towson, MD where she loves experimenting with the artista software.

MARIE OSMOND Marie Osmond has been involved in crafts and sewing most of her life. Marie’s mother had the insight to know that when you are busy using your head and your hands, you have the opportunity to involve your heart. Her mother gave her the “outline” to a life of creative sewing that has been ﬁ lled with colors, textures and creativity. Marie is a busy mother of 8 children and is passing on the tradition with her own children; she says, “Make it fun, Make it fast & Make it last a lifetime”.

KRISTIE SMITH Kristie was introduced to sewing on BERNINA® machines in college and loved it so much she took every sewing related class offered. She’s been sew- 42 ing on BERNINA® machines and teaching sewing classes for 14 years. As a BERNINA® Educator, Kristie is extremely passionate about sewing and loves to encourage others, especially the younger generation, to create.

MICAH KELLY Micah Kelly was born and raised in San Diego, CA. She made the decision to move to the great state of Oklahoma for her husband who was a digitizer at Oklahoma Embroidery Supply and Design. Once she arrived in Oklahoma she took the job of Event Coordinator at OESD and has picked up the love REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS: for embroidery. Gayle Hillert Vice President of Education, DEBBI LASHBROOK BERNINA® of America, Inc. A former teacher at the University level, Debbi also managed the BERNINA® Sewing Center in Plano, TX for ﬁ ve years before joining the Education staff at Jill Danklefsen ® BERNINA® Product Support Specialist, BERNINA of America. Her specialties include garment construction, pattern BERNINA® of America, Inc. drafting and ﬁ tting, and embroidery software.

Cover_Pg3.indd 4 10/12/06 12:36:54 PM from BERNINA® GAYLE HILLERT

Embellish, adorn, beautify, enhance, enrich—all terms we use for what we do when we take fabric and thread and create. We are adding “bells and whistles”, we are “icing the cake”—even more important, we are making something our own. Taking something that is ﬂ at and giving it dimension, while adding our signature and stamp puts our name and personality into what we create.

I am a big fan of “Project Runway”. It is the only television reality show I watch. The show is hugely popular and it speaks to the soul of those who dream and create. This season has been interesting. Although the designers are talented, when they have to stretch and move out of their comfort zone, it is sometimes difﬁ cult for them to visualize. We are all like that to a certain extent—it is interesting when a friend or acquaintance will pick out something and say, “that is so YOU!” We sometimes show our style and taste more than we are aware.

Isn’t it great to have the tools at our fi ngertips to embellish and adorn and show our style! Look inside this special edition of Through the Needle and fi nd all the ingredients you need to beautify. Gaze at the tremendous garments of the BERNINA® Fashion Show, “Magnifi que!”. This show offers inspiration to all of us to enhance and enrich. You’ll also fi nd instructions for a great quilt, including enhancing it with easy free-motion stitching using the BERNINA® Stitch Regulator (page 4), a fun update to a purchased jacket using lace embroidery designs (page 42), a beautiful serged camisole (page 54), and a unique way to turn fi ber into fabric using your embroidery machine (page 13). We have the tools of the best sewing machine, embroidery, software and serger to put our signature stamp on all we do.

If you want to know more about our latest BERNINA® Embroidery Software release V5.0 or our new BERNINA® Sergers with the patented mtc or Micro Thread Control, please visit our website at www.berninausa. com. And for all you BERNINA® fans that love BERNINA® presser feet, visit the site and click on Product, then Accessories to see short video clips of the 70+ feet that BERNINA® produces. The clips show how to use the feet and are valuable aids if you are sewing at 2 a.m. and can’t visit your dealer.

Enjoy this issue of Through the Needle. I hope it inspires you to stretch and move out of your comfort zone and helps you plan your next project to embellish!

Cover_Pg3.indd 5 10/12/06 12:37:13 PM THROUGH THE NEEDLE lt BY JACKIE ROBINSON N s Qui este tar Yardage d S Note: Value 1 is the lightest, 3 is the darkest

Blue 1 – ¼ yd Construction Note: Fabric Place a 5¼” square of Yellow 3 right sides together with a 5¼” square of Blue Blue 2 – ¼ yd 1 shown is from Blue 3 – ½ yd 1. On the backside draw a diagonal line from corner to corner. Make 4. He Loves Me by Jackie Yellow 1 – ¼ yd 2 Place a 5¼” square of Yellow 4 right sides together with a 5¼” square of Blue Robinson Yellow 2 – ⅓ yd 1. On the backside draw a diagonal line from corner to corner. Make 4. and Maywood Yellow 3 – ¼ yd Studio Yellow 4 – ½ yd 3 Position the blade of Patchwork Foot with Guide #57 foot so the drawn line is just barely inside of the blade (toward the needle) and stitch this ¼” seam Border Stripe – 1⅓ yds along both sides of the Steps 1 and 2 drawn lines. Binding – ⅜ yd Backing – 3 yards Cutting (across the 42” width of quality cotton fabric)

Blue 1: Cut one 5¼” strip into (8) 5¼” squares Blue 2: Cut one 7¼” strip into (2) 7¼” squares and (1) 6½” square Blue 3: Cut one 13¼” strip into (2) 13¼” squares

Yellow 1: Cut one 7¼” square Yellow 2: Cut one 9¾” strip into (1) 9¾” square, (1) 7¼” square, and (2) 5⅛” squares Yellow 3: Cut one 5¼” strip into (4) 5¼” squares and (4) 4½” squares Yellow 4: Cut one 13¼” strip into (1) 13¼” square and (4) 5¼” squares Cut two 4½” strips into (16) 4½” squares Border Stripe: Cut four 5½” lengthwise strips, centering stripe Binding: Cut ﬁ ve 2½” strips across the width of the fabric Finished Size 46” x 46”

PGS4_7.indd 1 10/9/06 8:55:49 AM ISSUE 20 lt N s Qui ested Star Jackie’s 4 From the corner of each of these Precision stitched units, cut a square as shown. Th e ‘ears’ will be gone. Th en Piecing Tips cut the units apart on the drawn “Th is pattern is planned with line, and press them gently toward the Blue. You’ll have 4 each of 2 varieties. precise ¼” seams throughout. To test your ¼” seam to see if 5 Layer one of each of the two triangle units right sides together, with the Blue it’s ‘right on’, cut two pieces of pieces on opposite corners. On the back, draw a diagonal line from corner to fabric exactly 2” x 5”. Stitch them corner perpendicular to the previous stitching lines. Position the #57 foot as together along the 5” length. before, and stitch ¼” on each side of this new line. Make 8. Measure across the two - at the mid-point. Th ey should be 6 As before, cut ¼” squares from the corners between the stitching, exactly 3½” wide. If not, adjust then cut the units apart and press gently in either direction. your seam allowance, and repeat this procedure until correct.” 7 Lay out the stars as shown, keeping all the Yellow 3 to the center and Yellow 4 around “For machine piecing, it’s best to the outer edges. Stitch the stars together using extend the stitch length on your either Patchwork Foot #37 or Patchwork Foot machine to 2.7 mm. On most with Guide #57, nesting the seams where they BERNINA® machines, that’s 3 meet. Press. Make 4. Th ese are the 4 corners. bumps past the blink.”

8 In the same manner as Steps 1-6, make 4 Star Point units begin- Stitch the long straight of grain 11 ning with 1 set of 7¼” Blue 2 edge of a Blue 3 triangle to an and Yellow 1 and another set of adjacent side of each Step 10 Blue 2 and Yellow 2. unit. Fold the Blue 3 and the Block each in half to ﬁ nd center 9 Cut the 13¼” along the edge, then match squares (2 of those centers. Th e Blue 3 trian- Blue 3 and 1 of gle will extend a bit more than Yellow 4) diago- ¼” at each end. Stitch in place. nally in fourths Make 4; ﬁ nger press – NO iron. like an ‘X’.

10 Stitch the long straight of grain edge of a Blue 3 triangle to one side of a Step 7 corner block. Fold the Blue 3 and the Block each in half to ﬁ nd center along the edge, then match those centers. Th e Blue 3 triangle will extend a bit more than ¼” at each end. Stitch in place. Make 4; ﬁ nger press – NO iron.

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12 Cut the two 5⅛” squares of Yellow 2 diagonally in half. Stitch each of these to the Yellow 2 of the Step 8 units, centering the triangle. Th ere will be a bit more than ¼” extending at each end. Finger press this seam toward the new triangle.

13 Cut the 9¾” square of Yellow 2 diagonally in fourths like an ‘X’.

14 Using Step 13, the Step 12 pieces, and the 6½” square of Blue 2, position the center. Borders 19 Center and stitch a Border stripe along each edge, begin- 15 When stitching the center together, the square cor- ning and ending the stitching ners of each piece will at the ¼” seam allowance, and always match. Stitch leaving 6” of Border extending the center together, as at each end. shown. Send seams in op-

posite directions. Wait to press 20 until it is all done, then press Place a corner to miter on your gently. ironing board, with the border that is lying horizontal extend- 16 Attach two of the Step 11 units to op- ing to the right, and the one posite sides of Step 15. Step 11 is all that is vertical, on top, and bias, and will ﬁ t precisely. Use 3 pins extending up. Fold the top ex- to match the center and two ends. tending border diagonally under Th en, place the bias (Step 11 part) next to the feed dogs and position so it is exactly on and stitch. Everything will top of the one extending to the ease in and it’ll be per- right. Once you are satisﬁ ed fect. Do NOT press. that the miter is as it should be, “smash” it with the iron. 17 Stitch a Step 9 Triangle of Yellow 4 to each side of the remaining Step 11 units. Note: Total bias in this stitching. Don’t pull - be gentle. Do NOT press.

18 Th e Step 17 units are added to Step 15 (see diagram in the next column). Remember to pin and ease. Everything ﬁ ts perfectly. Direct seams opposite of each other. Once stitched, press carefully.

PGS4_7.indd 3 10/9/06 8:55:55 AM ISSUE 20 For information on the tools and techniques in this article, see your local BERNINA® dealer or contact Jackie Robinson, Animas Quilts19 www.animas.com or [email protected]

21 Place a pin or two to hold the mitered corner in place. From the underside, using Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C, stitch in the pressed crease. Look to see that it’s ﬁ ne, and if it is, trim the excess from the corner to ¼”. Press these seams open. Quilting 22 Prepare to quilt your masterpiece. Layer the pieced top with the batting and backing; baste and quilt as desired. I used Walking Foot #50 to secure the seams “in-the-ditch”, then switched to the BERNINA® Stitch Regulator to detail it with geometric lines, heavy relief stippling, and soft quilting. Finishing 23 After quilting, use the 2½” strips for Binding, and follow the instructions with the Binding Miter tool from Ani- mas Quilts (www.animas.com). Stitch the Binding with the walking foot, and stitch its miters with Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C.

Using the BERNINA® Stitch Regulator (BSR) makes free-motion stitching easy for everyone, even the novice. Drop the feed dog, move the fabric any direction you want, and the machine will sew even, consistent stitches!

Echo-quilt the pieced shapes and trace around the print of the border as desired.

PGS4_7.indd 4 10/9/06 8:55:57 AM PPGS8_9.inddGS8_9.indd 1 110/9/060/9/06 7:51:187:51:18 AMAM Log on and see what’s new at www.berninausa.com

Follow the paths below to see the latest on the ® BERNINA® USA Studio BERNINA Exclusive Designs Available only at BERNINA stores, the Linen Closet website! collection offers elegant vintage-look designs, perfect for clothing, linens, and anywhere you want a delicate touch of embroidery. Products > Design Collections > search for linen

Quarterly Software Society – QSS Lesson 3 – Appliqué Want to get more from your embroidery software? Check out the new QSS software lesson on Appliqué! Written for all levels, this lesson includes some of the new features of Version 5. Online Classes > Quarterly Software Society > QSS Lessons

Online Class – Free-motion Thread Painting from Nancy Prince Nancy Prince is an award winning quilt artist from Or- lando, FL whose forte is free-motion thread painting. Don’t miss this awesome landscape project using the BERNINA® Stitch Regulator or your favorite free-motion presser foot. Sewing Studio > BSR Showcase > Make It with BSR! > Thread Painting class

Presser Feet Videos Using the correct presser foot can make a world of difference in the ease of stitching a technique and in the professionalism of the end result. BERNINA® offers 70+ feet and accessories so you can have the right tool for any task. See how they all work by viewing a short video of each presser foot. Products > Accessories > Presser Feet > select a foot > video presentation

NEW Overlock/Serger Feature It’s mtc or Micro Thread Control. Follow this link to see just exactly what this new feature is and how it can make your serger creations even easier and more professional looking! Products > Serging > Micro Thread Control

BERNINA® 2006 Fashion Show – Magniﬁ que! See the magniﬁ cent garments in this year’s show – creations from thirty-nine talented designers who express their creativity with needle and thread!

PPGS8_9.inddGS8_9.indd 2 110/9/060/9/06 7:51:307:51:30 AMAM THROUGH THE NEEDLE APRONS REVISITED

SUPPLIES BY ERIKA FITZGERALD • BERNINA® Sewing/Embroidery System • BERNINA® Embroidery Software: EditorLite, EditorPlus, and DesignerPlus • Apron pattern (aprons shown are Reversible apron made using Butterick® 6567 - with scalloped other suggestions are Indygo Junc- edge and embroi- tion IJ749 and McCall’s® M3979) dered accents on the apron and the pocket. • Ruffl er Attachment #86 Designs shown are from • Embroidery Foot #26 BERNINA® Embroidery Software V4. • Darning Foot #9 • Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C • BERNINA® medium embroidery hoop (100mm x 130mm) – • Fabric yardage according to pattern When selecting fabric, choose sturdier fabrics for work aprons. For an everyday apron, medium Aprons are making a big comeback as a kitchen essential! weight cottons, cotton blends, and synthetics work best since it Decorate commercial apron patterns with style and fl air will be used well and washed often. A special apron that may using BERNINA® machines, BERNINA® Embroidery Software, only be worn once a year or for a festive occasion can be made and BERNINA® accessories. From whipping up an everyday of more delicate special occasion fabrics. meal to entertaining dinner guests, make a statement with • Other fabrics and trims as a fabulous everyday apron, a fancy embellished Holiday needed: - ¼ yard pieces of fabric suit- apron, or a fussy special occasion kitchen frock! able for fl owers and leaves - Ribbon or lace trims (see section on Ruffl er Attachment #86 for yardage suggestions). DESIGNING YOUR APRON Thin, lightweight fabrics and After selecting an apron pattern, plan your decorations using one or more of these special touches: trims work best with the ruffl er. Thicker, bulkier trims and fab- Embroidered embellishments can include monogrammed pockets, added lettering, or any embroi- rics won’t run smoothly through dered design that fi ts the apron’s theme (think Holiday or special occasion). Lettering and mono- the ruffl er and won’t accept the grams can be added using BERNINA® embroidery software. pleats. Always test a trim or Ruffl ed trims – any trim suitable can be ruffl ed right to the apron! Use satin, tulle, lace, plain or fabric fi rst before attaching it to your project to make sure the fancy ribbons as well as strips of fabric. Keep in mind when adding trims in place of fabric ruffl es settings are correct. in patterns – you won’t need to cut out the fabric for the ruffl e if you are adding ribbon or trim in its place. (For yardage suggestions on trims, see Ruffl er section on the following page.) • Stabilizers suitable for chosen fabrics “Vintage” handmade fl owers can turn any ordinary apron into something special! Add one or • 505 Temporary Spray Adhesive many fl owers of different sizes depending on your preference. • Notions as per apron pattern; dressmaking shears, embroidery Once you’ve planned your apron embellishments, make sure to add all of them before complet- scissors, pins ing your apron. It is much easier to embroider pockets and add fl owers and ruffl ed trims before the • Threads; Mettler Metrosene in pieces are assembled. After adding all decorations to the apron, follow the pattern manufacturers’ colors matching fabrics; Isacord instructions for fi nishing. thread for embroidery accents 10

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MONOGRAM/LETTERING Lend a retro look to any apron with lettering or monogramming. This classic monogram is created using the Lettering feature of the BERNINA® embroidery software

Open the program and begin with a new blank design: • To add lettering, click on the Lettering/Fill values tool within the Design Toolbar. Next, select a color by clicking on the color palette in the Stitch and Color bar. Then, click in the screen where you want the lettering to be placed, and begin typing. Don’t worry that the font and size may not be what you want; you will edit your lettering after you have placed it in the Design Window. When you are fi nished typing, touch the Enter key. • To open the Object Properties box, do one of the following: right click on selected lettering or left click on the Object Properties icon in the General toolbar. • Select Anniversary Alphabet • Change the height of the lettering to 1.75” or 45mm • Click OK when fi nished making changes. • Save the lettering design or continue adding more lettering if desired. Create a staggered effect for Stabilize the fabric as needed, using temporary adhesive spray to secure stabilizer. Hoop the stabi- monogramming or lettering by making separate words or lized fabric and stitch the monogram. letters and arranging them in a diagonal manner. RUFFLED TRIM Note: For a video presentation of the BERNINA® Ruffl er log on to www.berninausa.com and go to products > accessories > presser feet > foot # 86: ruffl er

Attaching the Ruffl er Make sure that the needle is threaded before attaching the ruffl er. Place the u-shaped arm around the needle screw, as the up and down action of the needle bar works the ruffl er blade. Create a single layer of ruffl ed trim or use the ruffl er to attach trim directly to your project. Note: The ruffl er works with the center needle position only. Kaye’s Kitchen by Kaye England Adjusting Lever/Ruffl er Settings for Benartex with embroidered You can use the adjusting lever to set the pleat frequency, or how many pleats lettering and self-ruffl e cut on the bias. are set per stitch – (1) a pleat width each stitch, (6) every sixth stitch, (12) or every twelfth stitch.

Quick yardage guidelines for the ruffl er; • Pleating every stitch, 4x length of fi nished project. • Pleating every 6th stitch, 3x length of fi nished project. • Pleating every 12th stitch, 2x length of fi nished project.

Single Layer Ruffl e To create a single layer, simply place trim between the two blades of the ruffl er. Insert the edge of the trim into the guide at the end of the ruffl er blade; this will make sure that the edge of the trim is ruffl ed and stitched evenly. Sew at a slow and even pace until trim is completely ruffl ed. Pin and stitch pleated trim to your project, right sides together.

Ruffl ing Directly to Fabric To attach ruffl ed trim to project, insert the trim or fabric to be pleated wrong side up between the blades of the ruffl er. Place the fl at fabric under the ruffl er, right side up, through the seam guide slot. Align raw edges and stitch with steady, even pressure until trim is attached to fabric.

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DE- SIGNING and Silk Shantung apron with monogrammed pocket, stitch “vintage” fabric roses, and rufﬂ ed tulle trim. The the monogram uses the Anniversary font from the BERNINA® Embroidery Software.

“VINTAGE” HANDMADE FLOWERS These elegant handmade ﬂ owers are easy to make and even easier to attach to your project using the BERNINA® Darning Foot #9 and Button Sew-On program.

Getting started: Thin, medium weight fabrics that are soft, supple, and drape well make the best fl owers. Stiff, thick fabrics don’t bend as easily, and won’t work well for these types of fl owers. Flowers start as strips of fabric, for fl owers of each size cut the following: Large fl owers = 3” x 15” Medium fl owers = 3” x 13” long Small fl owers = 2” x 10” long

Flowers are all constructed the same way regardless of size. Create as few or as many fl owers as you like in different sizes. Finish the fl owers fi rst, and then play with placement on your project. Loosely pin fl owers and leaves until you fi nd a design that you like, then you can proceed to tack them down.

Fold fabric strip in half the long way, wrong sides together, and cut off each pointed edge so that it tapers to a point. Use Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C and a long straight stitch to sew a gathering stitch along the curved edge of the folded strip. Gently pull one end of the thread from the stitching to gather the stitched edge – don’t pull too tightly; this should be a loose gather.

Starting with one end of the gathered fabric, begin to roll the strip up in a loose roll, keeping sewn edges of strip together and even. Don’t roll too tightly, but keep it loose and try to end up with a “ﬂ at” rolled piece instead of a tightly rolled “tube”.

Using the Button Sew-On program and Darning Foot #9, stitch a tacking stitch through the center edge of your rolled ﬂ ower. Use a sewing thread that matches the color of the ﬂ owers exactly to hide the stitches.

Using the same machine settings, tack the fl ower to your project. Begin by opening up the fl ower and place the fi rst stitch in the center of the fl ower. Then, move the fl ower “petals” around by hand, and continue adding additional tacking stitches until the fl ower is secured.

To make the leaves, stitch the outline of each leaf using a straight stitch to help keep the fabric from raveling. Cut out the leaves close to the stitching, and using the same method as above, tack the leaves directly to the project. Use your fi ngers to pull back fl owers slightly to tack the leaves underneath the fl owers.

PPGS10_12.inddGS10_12.indd 3 110/9/060/9/06 9:02:169:02:16 AMAM THROUGH THE NEEDLE

BY SPANKY RYKIEL

Create your own multi-hued fabric by stitching glorious threads, wool roving, and decorative ﬁ bers together using your BERNINA® embroidery system. The Supplies resulting colorful fabric can be used to make small ™ • So Sheer fusible interfacing projects such as book covers, necklaces, and the purse (large enough for the Mega- Hoop) detailed here. You can even stitch enough yardage for a • Assortment of threads (such vest or jacket! as Oliver Twist, Isacord Embroidery, King Tut, etc.) • Assorted wool roving in Companion Project desired colors Make this great jeweled necklace using the technique described in this • Assorted Designer Threads in article and the BERNINA® Embroidery desired colors and textures Software with a FREE design from • BERNINA® Embroidery the BERNINA® USA website. Go Software, Designer Plus level to: www.berninausa.com > Sewing • BERNINA® Mega-Hoop Studio > Free Projects. • OESD Aqua Film topping • Isacord Embroidery thread in desired colors General Fiber Fabric Directions Thread the machine with Isacord thread in the needle and bobbin. Insert the bobbin into the • #90 Topstitch Needle regular sewing bobbin case (not the embroidery pigtail case).

Cut So Sheer™ fusible interfacing the size needed for the project. The purse and necklace require a piece large enough for the Mega-Hoop.

Place ﬁ ndings such as threads left over from embroidery, ravelings from washing quilt fabrics, punch needle rovings, etc. Top with assorted decorative threads; the “ﬁ lling” should be about ½” inch high.

Cover the pile of ﬁ bers with Aqua Film and carefully hoop the “sandwich”. Note: If you want a ﬁ rm shape for projects such as the purse shown, place a piece of wool felt or other fabric under the hoop before stitching.

Stitch and trim as directed for your selected project.

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Pocket Purse • Change the Stitch Width to 3.5mm Digitize your own purse using the shape of • Select File > Save As > Pocket Purse. the Mega-Hoop as a guide for the complet- • After completing the digitizing process, transfer the ed shape. Note: Before starting the design design to the embroidery system using your favorite process, go to the BERNINA website and method. download the following: www.berninausa. com > What’s New > Free Downloads > Stitching The Purse Free Embroidery Hoop Basting Designs > • Thread your machine and be sure your space has room 400 x 150 Mega-Hoop basting outline. to work with Mega-Hoop. • Cut purse backing to size of 9” wide x 22” tall. Pin into Digitizing The Purse place as shown - perpendicular to hoop frame edges. • Open the BERNINA® Embroidery Soft- Also be sure to lay fabric behind the hoop in such a ware, DesignerPlus level. way that there is very little excess fabric by the hoop • Open the downloaded 400 x 150 clamp side. Note: Remove the pins after stitching the Mega-Hoop basting outline Hoop basting line. • Select Show All to view entire hoop in • Stitch the Hoop basting line, Purse outline, Stipple Fill, the Design screen and Appliqué placement line. Choose matching or • Select the Closed Object tool; select coordinating thread color for the stippling and appliqué Outline > Single edge. Note: The basting stitch will be about ½” in from • Digitize a line of stitching along the inside the edge of the hoop. When sewing the basting stitch, of the Mega-Hoop until you get to the fi rst slow the machine to ½ motor speed. So you can make angle at the top of the hoop. Rather than sure that all layers are being properly sewn together. following the hoop shape, go straight Return to regular embroidery speed for stipple fi ll. across to the opposite side to form a rect- • Using extreme care, remove the hoop from the machine and trim the bottom fabric (purse angle at this end. Note: You may need lining) only, cutting close to the placement line. Note: Pull excess thread back through the to Select your motif and use the Reshape needle when the Mega-Hoop repositions itself. You may choose to pull the excess bobbin Object tool to get precise lines. thread to the top as well. • Select the design • Return the hoop to the machine and stitch the tack-down line. Check to be sure all edges • Go to the Edit menu > Duplicate, change of fabric are secured by tack-down stitching. the duplicate to a Fill stitch > Step • Finish with the fi nal satin cover stitch. For this stitch, slow the embroidery speed to about • With the Step fi ll still selected, change to ¾ motor speed. If stitched too quickly, the width of the satin stitch a Stipple Fill. Adjust your stipple settings could be pulled too narrow. as desired and select OK. Before going • Remove the project from the hoop and trim all stabilizer to on, be sure to check that your outline ¼”. Soak for an hour and rinse well, lay fl at to dry. When and stipple fi ll fi t within the boundaries completely dry, trim the remaining So Sheer™ fusible interfac- of the hoop. Do this by selecting Object ing away. Properties, and looking under the Gen- eral tab. Adjust accordingly, if necessary Finishing The Purse • To complete the design, an appliqué will To create a closure for the purse, sew a loop on the shaped be digitized to create a backing on this end and sew on an interesting button closure. Option: Instead purse. Select the Auto Appliqué tool, fol- of a loop closure, use the BERNINA® Embroidery Software to low the prompts as outlined on the Status make a buttonhole. Fold to form pocketbook as shown; stitch line. All 3 steps of the appliqué will be the sides using your sewing machine straight stitch and either created using this tool – placement, tack- Piping Foot #38 (if your purse fabric is fairly thin) or Bulky Over- down, and cover stitch (satin stitch). lock Foot #12/12C (if your purse fabric is bulky). Make a strap • Select the appliqué, right mouse click to of twisted ribbon or yarn and secure it at each side. open Object Properties.

Creating Yardage If making a vest or jacket, cut interfacing pieces large enough for each section of the garment such as the yoke shown here. Each piece will be stitched in as many hoopings as needed, over- lapping about ¼” and continuing to rehoop until the interfacing is covered.

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WEARABLE ART GARMENTS SHOWCASING CREATIVE STITCHERY AS FEATURED IN THE 2006 BERNINA® FASHION SHOW

BERNINA® OF AMERICA PRESENTS

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ON THE GARMENTS AND THE DESIGNERS, VISIT WWW.BERNINAUSA.COM.

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MARTIN FAVRE PRESIDENT, BERNINA® OF AMERICA

Dear Sewing Enthusiasts,

Year after year, the designers who are selected to take part in the BERNINA® Fashion Show continue to delightfully surprise us with their visons, their talents, and their interpretations of the theme of the show. This year’s theme, Magniﬁ que!, will certainly be evident when you view the thirty-nine magniﬁ cent garments made by designers who express their creativity with needle and thread.

Machine embroidery, appliqué, beading, quilting, thread painting, and needle felting are just a few of the textile techniques employed by these designers when creating their runway master- pieces. While you may never spend hundreds of hours designing and stitching a single outﬁ t, or combine so many techniques and materials in one project, all of the textile manipulations and embellishment techniques shown on these pages can be utilized in your own sewing projects, whether you stitch for your home, your family, or yourself. As you turn the pages of this issue of Through The Needle, look for inspiration and ideas that will give you avenues for creative expression.

The production of the BERNINA® Fashion Show involves dozens of people and companies working together to make it a success each year. This year is no exception, from the featured suppliers listed on page 20, to the models who artfully display the garments both in print and in the shows, to the designers themselves, they all enthusiastically play their parts to get the job done. As the producer of the BERNINA® Fashion Show, Quilts, Inc. has a history of beautifully organizing and presenting this event each year and Magniﬁ que! is no exception. So if you have the opportunity to see the garments in person, don’t pass it up! You can also enjoy them on the following pages or by logging on to www.berninausa.com.

Dear Friends,

I invite you to escape the everyday and with great enthusiasm and excitement, dive into the creative world of the 2006 BERNINA® Fashion Show – Magniﬁ que! Thirty-nine ensembles await you, each promising to inspire and amaze. From the fanciful to the elegant, from the bold to the reﬁ ned, all showcase the latest and most imaginative techniques, embellishments and designs available to seamstresses of all backgrounds and interests.

Magniﬁ que! – with a name that conjures up visions of the ﬁ nest heritage of French cutting edge style – promises to deliver a beautiful glimpse into the constantly emerging wearable art scene. These remarkable garments will premiere on the runway of the International Quilt Market and International Quilt Festival in Houston in the fall of 2006. Thousands will enjoy viewing these extraordinary entries over the next year and this publication gives the unique insiders’ view of each and every one, including a list of suppliers from whom you can obtain the same raw materials as the designers.

BERNINA® of America continues to provide a beautiful setting to showcase the talent, vision, and energies of the current wave of wearable art designers. Each individual creation is presented here so that you may learn from and be inspired by the intricacies of design highlighted in the detailed photos. I encourage you to browse through the pages of garments and allow your imagi- nation to explore the endless possibilities of wearable art. KAREY P. BRESENHAN PRESIDENT QUILTS, INC. & DIRECTOR, INTERNATIONAL QUILT MARKET & INTERNATIONAL QUILT FESTIVAL

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A SPECIAL THANK YOU TO THE FOLLOWING!

BERNINA FASHION SHOW OFFICIAL SUPPLIERS Stage Design Andover Fabrics Art Attack Benartex Inc.

Event Production Blumenthal Lansing Company Lenny Matuszewski, Jr. Cherrywood Fabrics Event Coordination Coats & Clark Marcia Barker Design and Planning Concepts Commentator Dragon Threads Gayle Hillert Fairﬁ eld Processing Make Up/Hair Stylist Fredia Mitchell Free Spirit

Ghee’s Handbags

Hanah Silk Ribbon Company

Island Batik, Inc.

Kandi Corp

Lorraine Torrence Designs/Grainline Gear

OESD, Inc. THROUGH THE NEEDLE Pavelka Design SPECIAL SECTION Prym-Dritz Corporation Photography by Kim Coffman

Quilters’ Resource, Inc. Photography Models Lara Kopriva Rag Merchant

RJR Fabrics Emily McMichael

Sulky of America Irena Shyshkina Thai Silks Athena Taylor The Beadery Katelin Thurber Valdani

YLI Corporation Marianne Twaddle

PGS15_41.indd 4 10/12/06 12:45:44 PM ISSUE 20 PRESENTING THE DESIGNERS OF THE 2006 BERNINA® FASHION SHOW

Magniﬁ que!

JENNIFER AMOR CARYL L. GAUBATZ MICHELLE MITCHELL SPRING THAW REMEMBRANCE OF THINGS PAST WOODLAND CASCADE

CHARLOTTE WARR ANDERSEN CARROLL GRIFFITHS JUDY MULLEN WINTER IN DIJON (A MÉLANGE MOLA MANIA GRACE COMES IN SILKEN SPLENDOR OF MUSTARDS) ROCHELLE HARPER JUSTINE LIMPUS PARISH KIMBERLY M. ANDERT LE CIEL DE LA NUIT (THE NIGHT’S SKY) FASHIONISTA GIN & JAZZ AFTER MIDNIGHT… SUSAN PATZER-HICKS MELODY HICKS DEBBIE BONE-HARRIS EVENING IN PARIS TWILIGHT OF SPRING COPPER CABERNET VINCE QUEVEDO CATHIE I. HOOVER TONI CARROLL REMINISCE OLÉ AUTUMN IN THE SMOKIES JENNY RAYMOND MELODY CRUST KAYLA KENNINGTON MANDARIN, RASPBERRY SALSA WITH PARISIENNE ROSE FANTASIA FLEUR DU SOLEIL A TWIST OF LIME

JUDI DAINS PRISCILLA KIBBEE DIANE RICKS THIS IS HOW IT FEELS TO BE FREE THANKS KAFFE MADAME MACAW

K. ERICA DODGE RITA YOUNG KILSTROM JENNIFER STERN DADDY’S LITTLE GIRL NO MORE UNE FORÊT TROPICALE MAGNIFIQUE ALWAYS AND FOR LEATHER (A MAGNIFICENT RAIN FOREST) JUDY GELZINIS DONOVAN LINDA STEWART BEADY-OLOGY FRANCES KRUPKA CONSIDER THE LILIES ALL THAT GLITTERS LUELLA DOSS NOELLE TAMBORINI-OLSON SKI COSTUME FOR THE DEBI KUENNEN-BAKER GINGKOES GO MOTOWN… “CHICKEN-HEARTED” MARSHA’S GARDEN PARTY EAST MEETS WEST

KATHY L. DOWNIE HEIDI LUND LORRAINE TORRENCE CARNIVAL RIO A GATHERING OF LEAVES REIGNING WOOL

LYNDA M. H. FAIRES ETTA McFARLAND SUSAN VAN SWEARINGEN PEONY PRINCESS FIELDS OF GOLD A GENTLE GLIMPSE OF GRACE

CYNTHIA D. FRIEDMAN BARBARA BARRICK McKIE AMANDA WHITLATCH GEISHA LITE RAINBOW RHAPSODY TATSU

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SPRING THAW BY JENNIFER AMOR

Translucent emerald and ultramarine peeking through sparkling silver “ice”, designer Jennifer Amor more appropriately knows this garment as “Meltdown”. Her ﬁ rst grandchild arrived weeks early via emergency surgery right in the middle of “garment lockdown” time–the month set aside for intense work. So Spring Thaw was made at night in several states as Jennifer traveled from New York to Kentucky to Minnesota to North Carolina–a skirt layer here, a sleeve there. Using her “Sewing Sweaters for Knitwits” technique, a way to make “knit-look” garments on the sewing machine, and an adaptation of her own Pop Top Jacket pattern, Jennifer arranged ribbon knitting yarn and strips of silver mylar/spandex on wash-away stabilizer, then covered these with eyelash yarn. She free-motion stitched the yarns together using the Stitch Regulator foot on her BERNINA® artista 630. Over 200 hours of work and 4,000 yards of ribbon and thread went into creating this diaphanous garment. Under the coat is a glittering, one-shouldered gown covered with embroidered snowﬂ akes and Swarovski crystals. The bias-cut skirt of ombre silk chiffon is a swirl of colors from deep ultramarine to palest citron.

Survey mustards at your local grocery store and you’ll see colors from sunshine yellow to brown along with a few reds and greens. Combine fabrics in these colors, trim with black and the result is a garment that, while not edible, is absolutely mouthwatering. The basic mustard-colored fabric of the coat is Charming Creations Wool from RJR Fabrics. Squares of silk, ranging from golden to brown, with a hint of cranberry and wasabi, were framed with black. These squares were then felted into the wool and further enhanced with copper metallic thread. The collar, lapels and cuffs were created using brown and black wool, the black fabric being couched with a copper cord. The coat was liberally salted with Swarovski and Preciosa crystals. This ensemble had its beginnings in the fabric used for the bodice and godets of the gown–silk jacquard with the look of pewter-spat- tered with gold. The edges of the gown bodice, sleeves, and hem are trimmed with raw-edge triangles of black organza peppered with black glitter. The jaunty hat, an original design, has an organza veil edged with a serger rolled hem. All in all, the ensemble is a lovely complement of textile condiments.

WINTER IN DIJON (A MÉLANGE OF MUSTARDS) BY CHARLOTTE WARR ANDERSEN

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GIN & JAZZ AFTER MIDNIGHT… BY KIMBERLY M. ANDERT

Inspired by the exotic drawings of Erte, this evening coat echoes the oriental inﬂ uences prevalent in fashions of the 1920’s. The kimono-style coat features a high, standing collar, full-length sleeves, and a short train. Made of panné velvet, it has a stylized peacock feather pattern in shades of cocoa; black-tipped white faux fur collar and cuffs add luxury and drama. The cocktail dress beneath is ﬂ irty and fun–just right for kicking up your heels in a jazz club! The halter-style gown of ice blue satin continues the oriental theme in its details. At the hipline are two chiffon panels–teal green and magenta with free-motion embroidered Chinese motifs in metallic thread and beaded tassels in coordinating colors. The panels at the hip are outlined with beaded fringe in gold and ice blue. The bodice and halter neckline are draped with teal green chiffon and beaded fringe that ends at the back neckline in long necklace-like tassels of beads. The focal point of the gown is a stylized oriental peacock, placed at hip level on the front. Free-motion embroidered, its colors of fuchsia, magenta, emerald and teal help pull all the elements of the dress together.

Copper Cabernet evokes the rich hues and earthy textures of spreading grape fi elds, from raw vine to fi ne wine. Crushed velvet is the background for lavish embroidery with Swarovski crystals glisten- ing like fresh dew in the morning over fertile vineyards. Vaguely Spanish with a tinge of Edwardian, this gown has a sleek silhouette. With a rich texture reminiscent of a cabernet, copper silk organza comprises the machine-ruched and hand-beaded bodice that sen- suously caresses the body. Endless delicate free-form peyote beads accentuate the design lines. The design techniques of the Copper Cabernet shoulder accent weave 21st century concepts with a new millennium of ingenuity and magnifi cence. Constructed of painted, cut, burned and stitched DuPont Tyvek®, a material made of very fi ne, high-density, polyethylene fi bers, the chiffon and tulle shoulder piece is stitched with free-motion embroidery bobbin work, resulting in colorful leaves cascading over the shoulder. An extravagantly stitched and beaded headpiece and small, embroidered velvet bag with a glazed, hand-dyed lining complete the elegant ensemble. COPPER CABERNET BY DEBBIE BONE-HARRIS

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AUTUMN IN THE SMOKIES BY TONI CARROLL

Inspired by that magical season when snow is beginning to gather on the North Carolina mountaintops while the last of the fall fl owers and leaves are putting on a show in the valley, this original design coat is made of winter white wool. The graceful blue ribbon bow on the back gives movement and contrast to the autumn fl owers and green tendrils of this striking design. Created with needle felting, the design is enhanced with embroidery, couching, and thread painting. The lower curved fl ounce has numerous colors of silk dupioni foiled with fusible powder for a subtle shimmer. Sparkling crystals added to the coat are reminiscent of lights fl ickering on at dusk. The rayon dress, designed to peep out from under the coat for a tiered effect, has a curved strip-pieced dupioni silk band enhanced with decorative stitching and rhinestones to refl ect the fl ounce on the coat. The hat is white wool roving, wet-felted into shape, with shimmer fi ber blended in for twinkle. Flowers and vines were needle punched and beading and crystals added for sparkle. The purse is wet-felted wool fi ber with the oval fl ap made from the rayon dress fabric and enhanced with embroidery.

Parisienne Rose captures the romance and excitement you would expect to see at a glittering ball in one of Europe’s capital cities, or perhaps gracing a shop window along the Champs d’Elisee, enticing delighted passers-by to take a closer look. Constructed of heavy silk taffeta from China, the brilliant red woven jacquard fabric, a delightful panorama of delicate roses in red and black, served as inspiration for the overall design. The close-fi tting strapless gown has a darted, dropped waist bodice and a double gathered skirt trimmed in lace Melody herself created using software and 15,000 yards of fuchsia- colored Isacord thread from OESD. It took over 100 hours to stitch the lace motifs alone. The long evening shawl, Melody’s original design, is made of shocking pink polyester, covered with a grid of pintucks, and lined with red Chinese silk taffeta to match the gown. Both gown and shawl are embellished with 5,000 Swarovski crystals Their brilliant colors – fuchsia, ruby, rose – twinkle and fl ash, just like the eyes of the beautiful woman fortunate enough to wear this chic and stunning ensemble. C’est magnifi que! PARISIENNE ROSE BY MELODY CRUST

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THIS IS HOW IT FEELS TO BE FREE BY JUDI DAINS

Beautiful and free, butterfl ies paired with a retro gown design seemed to be the perfect combination. The lush silk fl owers along the neckline are incredible and were selected fi rst to determine the color scheme of Judi’s garment. When combined with white satin and organdy from her stash, they tied her planned techniques together in the most beautiful way. She fi rst used variegated rayon thread to stitch twin needle pin stripes over the skirt and bodice of the gown. To answer the challenge of stitching on the bias-cut skirt, Judi backed the entire gown with netting to stabilize it and keep it from shifting. All of the butterfl ies were free-motion embroidered on silk organza using a dissolvable stabilizer, and then the organza was placed over the top of the satin. More organza was placed on the bodice on top of the twin needlework, then scrunched and sewn down by hand. Hundreds of colorful crystals are scattered over the garment and took several days to place. The embroidered mask features a wonderful array of Valdani hand-dyed yarns and threads. The hat was an old hat covered with...Oh, those silk ribbon fl owers...they make the entire garment come to life!

Every young girl is a princess to her father and every young girl dreams of being a princess. When she is young, she is treated as a princess, when she is a teenager… she acts like a princess! On an evening at the opera with her parents, she is the model daughter. The ultimate proper young lady, she is stylishly, yet modestly dressed; she nods when acknowledged, and smiles appropriately when spoken to. The outer garment, a black cape embroidered with black metallic roses from OESD, is attached to a pencil-slim skirt at the hip. The cape keeps the young girl’s fantasies covered until she can be free. BUT… when Mom and Dad go home… the true princess comes out to play! This is a young lady with a life to experience, a dream to live, and a joy to love! As the cape drops, her true personality is revealed. She is a young woman with passion and hope for life. Perky pink spring ﬂ owers blossom across the lime green chiffon bodice and the long, ﬂ owing hand-painted chiffon shirt. The Swarovski crystals shine as her smile broadens and her step be- comes quicker. Watch out world! DADDY’S LITTLE GIRL NO MORE BY K. ERICA DODGE

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BEADY-OLOGY BY JUDY GELZINIS DONOVAN

A recent career change from art librarian to bead store manager pushed Donovan’s artistic focus from fi ber to bead weaving and embroidery. The elaborate “goddess belt” was the fi rst step in creating Beady-ology. Small pieces of every fabric planned for the garment were rolled into fabric beads and embellished by hand with craft wire and seed beads. The elaborate coat started with a design from an old wooden box where she keeps beaded jewelry, and from two beautiful strands of African trade beads given to her by the owner of the bead shop. The detachable sleeves, the front band and the back of the garment utilize a slash-stitching technique that started with fabric collage covered with a layer of Cherrywood black sueded cotton. Machine-stitched “bead” shapes were sewn over the fabrics, then the top layer was cut through to expose the beautiful colors beneath. The outfi t is completed with baggy rayon pants and a cotton top embellished with more glass and ceramic beaded fringe. And to think it all started with a bead!

As a self-proclaimed “willing, teeth-clenched, eyes-shut, white-knuckled, I-don’t-want-to-be-left-out, avid skier”, Luella wanted to create a garment that refl ects what she wants to look like: “a confi dent, accomplished snow chicken ‘racing’ down the mountain with my wings catching air!” Using Eyes Wise, a fabric collection she created with partner Robin Fleming for Free Spirit Fabrics, Luella made the colorful fabrics dance across this garment in pastel sherbets iced with glitter. The garment pattern was also designed by Luella and incorporates stretchy, shiny hot pink vinyl in the sides of the pants and the jacket to allow for easy bending and those quick, graceful turns skirting the snowy moguls. “Super Girl on the slopes” has only to open her jacket to show what is closest to her heart–what else but the “delectable mountains” etched in perfect patchwork across the bib of the pants. The entire garment is heavily quilted, adding texture and warmth for the mountain slopes. The hat and the “wings” on the sleeves offer a wing and protection (prayer) when scaling the heights. The fi nal detail is the footwear – boots made of purple fun fur laced and tied with strips of leather. SKI COSTUME FOR THE “CHICKEN HEARTED” BY LUELLA DOSS

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CARNIVAL RIO BY KATHY L. DOWNIE

Carnival Rio, as you can guess, is based on Carnival in Rio de Ja- neiro. Why? Because Carnival is an exciting display of costumes where every outfi t is different, bright with color and exciting design. Downie went on the hunt and found sparkle organza to match every color imaginable: frozen blue, lemon drop, carrot top, sapphire, hot pink, toffee, cotton candy, and grape. Next she found wonderful cut velvet silk/rayon fabric with multicolored circles and fl owers that matched all the organza colors. The oval petals are machine embroidered with metallic thread, OESD stabilizer and Quilting Fancy Feathers embroidery designs by Diane Gaudynski. The garment starts with a full petticoat, made of netting over a polyester lining, trimmed in ribbon. An “almost circular” orange skirt is fl oor length with over 100 embroidered organza petals overlaid and attached across the surface with circular cut sequins. A fi tted, princess seam top is made of the cutout velvet and embellished with over 1000 Swarovski crystals. A coordinating multi-colored hat completes the ensemble.

The graceful and delicate peony fl ower has long been an emblem of peace, tranquility, kindness, and compassion in Oriental art. The princess embodies these qualities as a member of the benefi cent royal family in a mythical kingdom where all the inhabitants aspire for the happiness of all beings. Lynda started with her own drawing of a peony fl ower scanned into her computer, using it as a backdrop to digitize her own original embroidery design. To stitch the oversize fl owers, the design was split into four quadrants; each complete peony required approximately four hours to complete. Heat-set Swarovski crystals send out rays of multi-colored light from the heart of each peony. The scallop collar and front lapel of regal burgundy silk dupioni are embroidery-machine-quilted using a fl oral motif adapted and digitized by Lynda from designs by Sharon Schamber. Under the coat, the Princess wears daytime attire–blouse and skirt made from iridescent pink/lavender silk dupioni. The blouse features the same embroidered-quilting as the coat collar. The skirt is an original design by Lynda and resembles a peony’s ruffl ed petals over a gathered and ruched plum-colored organza underskirt. PEONY PRINCESS BY LYNDA M. H. FAIRES

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GEISHA LITE BY CYNTHIA D. FRIEDMAN

Inspired by a bag full of aluminum can tabs that had been saved to donate to the Philadelphia Ronald McDonald House, Cynthia thought it would be fun to use them to make armor. Her research led her to images of ancient Japanese-style Samurai armor. Asian Harmony by Andover Fabrics was the perfect fabric choice – the red jacket undercoat to which the quilted and embellished individual panels of “armor” layers were attached and the black and gold kanji edging offer the perfect ﬂ avor and drama. Japanese armor is traditionally ﬁ nely detailed and embellished. To convey that feeling, several fabrics were used in addition to the layer of tabs sewn one at a time onto the individual panels. The purpose of ancient armor was to prevent weapons from piercing one’s body, but it also added bulk and girth to the body to create a more intimidating appearance. This contemporary armor has a much different feel and purpose – today’s woman does not need protection from harmful weapons. Instead of keeping things away from the body, the armor acts as an electronic signal reception boost – a personal wearable antenna – improving her cell phone and Blackberry reception. I am sure she can “hear you now”!

A la Recherche du Temps Perdu was Marcel Proust’s great novel about remembering and recreating the past: accidental triggers to the senses may bring back images clearer than when ﬁ rst experienced. Images from a long ago vacation appear on the front and back panels of this garment design. Digital photos of driftwood on a beach were printed on specially treated silk habutai, then quilted. The panels were covered with artist-dyed silk organza to suggest the blurring of memory with time and are outlined with double rows of silver and gold lamé piping. The sleeves and side panels are made of midnight silk dupioni that has been quilted using heavy metallic thread in the bobbin with Proust’s title in the original French. The elegant pants are composed of two layers of silk: ﬂ owing silk charmeuse covered by crisp hand-dyed silk organza for a luxurious texture. A pillbox hat, composed of silver lamé covered with black organza and quilted with Proust’s title, appears to be made of antique ham- mered silver. The overall effect is one of understated elegance and mystery.

REMEMBRANCE OF THINGS PAST BY CARYL L. GAUBATZ

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MOLA MANIA BY CARROLL GRIFFITHS

Let’s take a trip to Central America. The featured motif of this ensemble is an intricate fi sh mola made by the local natives in the San Blas islands off Panama. The body of the dramatic Folkwear mid-calf coat is pieced in a chevron braid pattern using dozens of different Guatemalan stripes. The coat has a large broad collar - the perfect spot to feature the mola. The black sateen base fabric of the lapels, cuffs and collar is cross-hatched using a variegated thread. Various animal mola shapes in imitation suede are placed down the wide lapels, with the machine-appliquéd animals on each side being a mirror image of the other. The lapels and collar are edged with equilateral triangles in colors that appear in the Guatemalan stripes, constructed with paper piecing methods for accuracy. This piecing repeats the shape of the reverse appliquéd triangles in the background of the mola. Embellishment consists of rickrack circling the mola and various buttons and beads. The tiered skirt is made of fi ve different large fl orals with an ethnic feel. The semi-fi tted lined top is constructed of a Guatemalan stripe and has front princess seams and rickrack trim along the openings.

This piece combines personal passions of the designer: intense color and textural fabrics, Post Impres- sionist art (Van Gogh in particular), architecture, and a personal dream to visit Paris. Maroon and char- coal wool knit fl eece are the foundation for the fl exible wrap coat; luxurious faux fur of maroon and black edge the collar, center front and hem edge. The lower portion of the coat is “painted” with iridescent silk organza in various colors that are ripped, cut, fused, and stitched to the fl eece while maintaining the double-faced fabric. Multiple variegated embroidery threads in the design of the sky, inspired by Van Gogh’s Starry Night and digitized using BERNINA® software, contrib- ute to the blending of colors for a “painterly” effect. Fleece cording is couched, giving dimension and color to the patterned sky. When the coat is reversed, the cityscape falls into shadow with lines of variegated pearl cotton providing detail to the scene. The stretch poly/ Ly- cra® blend crushed velvet of the fi tted dress contrasts with godets of silk charmeuse in the back and poly/Lycra® mesh in the front. Mesh insets on the dress are edged and couched with nylon/polyester yarn that continues in a swirl down the front, back, and sleeves.

LE CIEL DE LA NUIT (THE NIGHT’S SKY) BY ROCHELLE HARPER

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TWILIGHT OF SPRING BY MELODY HICKS

Wouldn’t it be nice to enjoy springtime year round? If only we could sew our landscapes with brightly colored silks and embellish them with twinkling beads and crystals. Since Melody could “kill silk fl owers,” the only way she’ll ever have a beautiful garden is by sewing it. Twilight of Spring is a depiction of the fantasy garden seen only in Melody’s dreams. Inspired by the beautiful images Mother Nature gives us, these appliquéd silk fl owers were digitized by fel- low nature lovers, Marsha Pollard and “The Digital Quilter,” who both obviously view the world through fl oral-colored glasses. Using eXplorations software for designing the layout and printing a life- size skirt and jacket template made the designing process easier. Brightly colored silk dupioni fl owers are generously stitched on midnight blue taffeta and heavily embellished with beads and crystals, giving the feel of dew-kissed petals. The fl owers are repeated on the green jacket fabric that shows the freshness of the season. Twin needle, ribbon embellishment and a bit of sparkle enhance the collar, coordinating the entire look.

Take a snug matador’s jacket, add a fl amenco skirt and rhinestone-embellished fl oral embroidery of the Mariachi and voilà - you have Olé! Cathie loves Spanish embroideries with stylized fl owers and has longed to create her own version of them. In Olé she utilizes an original design inspired by this traditional embroidery. She designed this motif of 48,000 stitches using embroidery software and stitched it six times with Isacord thread from OESD. The fl oral blossoms feature petals of magenta, cerise, poppy red and marigold orange, entwined with goldenrod tendrils. The embroidery panels and rickrack are embellished with large fusible Swarovski crystals for a glitzy presentation. After stitching the design panels, Cathie free-motion machine quilted each garment section. Hobbs’ Thermore polyester batting and 100 weight silk thread by YLI were the perfect combination for this wearable; the lining features dupioni silk in narrow stripes of red and black. Poppy-red dupioni silk was used in the three-tier, long skirt – each gathered tier embellished with jumbo black rickrack, rhinestones and hemmed with wide black lace. A fl amenco-style hat with rickrack, rhinestones and rear-facing bow completes Olé. OLÉ BY CATHIE I. HOOVER

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FANTASIA FLEUR DU SOLEIL BY KAYLA KENNINGTON

Kayla followed her intuition with the colors and fabrics that jumped out at her from the many fabric stores she visits throughout the country. Soft and shimmery sequined fabric, some amazing metal mesh “stays,” hand-dyed pom-poms in three shades of wine to burgundy, red and burgundy feather fabric, wonderful ruby and rust silk shantung from Vietnam, and a great fl oral drapery print became a pile of goodies in her studio. She used free-motion embroidery to fi ll in the fl oral print completely with Sulky thread using her artista 630 with the zigzag BERNINA® Stitch Regulator. These embroidered panels for the front of one of her patterns, Fantasia Top, were just the beginning. Satin cording as laces became a design component, but are also used as a fi tting element. Using the BERNINA® Freemotion Couching Foot, Kayla drew swirls of abstract fl owers all over the fabric then added raw edge ribbon in a carefree manner. And then came the real fun…a long burgundy wig with 42 tiny braids and green pom-poms and a hat with wire stays, more pom-poms and fl owers. To make the skirt fl air, Kayla purchased tulle and then had to go back to the store and get more–twice–using over 60 yards!

Two-time winner of the Créme de la Créme Award and member of the BERNINA® Fashion Show Hall of Fame, Kayla continues to create masterful pieces for the show but has chosen not to participate in this year’s competition.

A longtime fan of Kaffe Fassett’s designs, Kibbee says, “His unique blends of color, hue and com- position are treats for the eye and always make me smile.” Years ago she collected all of Fassett’s sweater books, then progressed through the decorating and quilting books. While she hoped one day to make a “Kaffe-inspired something,” nothing seemed to jell. Now, with all of Kaffe’s beautiful fabrics, she decided this year presented a good opportunity to use them in a spectacular outfi t. But how many fabrics are enough? This is a dilemma that confronts many quilters. The choice was a diffi cult one, but Kibbee stopped at 135 of Kaffe’s fabrics, cut into thousands of pieces. The opera-style coat began life as a rectangle and is composed of Kibee’s “trademark” Sumptuous Seminole strips, which are enhanced with gold topstitching and silk dupioni for extra sparkle. All of the sequins and gold trims were collected on a recent trip to Calcutta, India. The dress is a Bedouin peasant design admired by Kibbee when she worked in Saudi Arabia; it also began life as rectangles. The fl owered beaded bands on the skirt, from the Guatemalan highlands, reminded her of Kaffe’s fabrics. THANKS KAFFE BY PRISCILLA KIBBEE

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UNE FORÊT TROPICALE MAGNIFIQUE (A MAGNIFICENT RAIN FOREST) BY RITA YOUNG KILSTROM

While living in Puerto Rico, Rita visited a rain forest and has always remembered that experience with awe. The current world concerns about the vanishing rain forests prompted her to create a small glimpse of them using fabrics, decorative threadwork, beads, and trims. The fi rst view of this fabric rain forest is the sumptuous cloak of gold mesh covered with leaves that are stitched along their veins with metallic, holographic, and rayon threads. Perched atop the forest canopy are a saucy butterfl y and a tropical parrot. When the ‘canopy’ cloak is removed, a jumpsuit of earthy dark brown jer- sey is revealed. It, too, is covered with leaves, and further enhanced with the fl ora and fauna inhabitants of the rain forest. One shoulder sports a large beetle, balanced on the other shoulder by a hot-pink blossom. Scattered among the many leaves and vines are a larger-than-life tree frog, a purple lizard, and a variety of fantasy fl owers enjoying the moist, warm climate. The headpiece is fashioned with vines and leaves, and dripping from it and from it and the sleeves edges are fringes of clear beads, representing the ever-present rains in the forest.

What woman can resist the chance to attend a festive fundraising dance - and the opportunity to create a new dress with accessories? Hunting for a color scheme, Frances found yarn in metallic shades, sparking a search for coordinating fabrics - silk suiting, chiffon, dupioni, and organza. To top a glittering gown, Frances planned a formal, pinstriped, cutaway coat. Silk suiting was stitched to muslin and Fairﬁ eld’s 60/40 batting with rows of double needle stitching using metallic thread. The silver rayon lining is embroidered with a medley of leaf designs in shimmering metallic shades; embroidered paisley lace “leaves” dance on the seams. Inspired by a glamorous Ralph Lauren gown, Frances added pintucks, bowties, and shining gold and silver embroideries to pieces of the elegant fabrics, which were then assembled in a “slightly-crazy” fashion to create a dramatic leg- and back-revealing dress, supported by a velvety tie and skinny straps from a bowtie neckline. Hundreds of Swarovski crystals sparkle on the gown and adorn the rakish bowler hat. After forming a new hatband, the rest of the inspirational yarn was stitched into a small fringed shoulder bag to carry our dancer’s essentials to the ball. ALL THAT GLITTERS BY FRANCES KRUPKA

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MARSHA’S GARDEN PARTY BY DEBI KUENNEN-BAKER

Every girl’s wardrobe should be armed with a little black dress, and this one is the perfect addition to anyone’s arsenal. The strapless bodice on the form-fi tting dress is embellished with Marsha Pollard’s Grand Elegance designs sewn in jewel colors to create an all-over design on the fabric. An ornamental design was rotated, copied, mirrored and combined for the hem. After embroidering, the excess fabric was trimmed away to create the fl irty, uneven hem- line. The dress is wrapped in a glorious shawl machine-appliquéd with Fun, Funky Florals by Marsha Pollard. Edged in colorful spiral piecing and rich fringe fashioned from strips of leftover fabric and novelty yarns, the shawl is a swirling, sensuous delight of tone and texture. The fi nal touch was adding Swarovski crystals to the bodice, hem and shawl – “you ain’t got that zing if you don’t add that bling!” Whether out for dinner with that special someone, or out on the town for a night of dancing, you won’t go unnoticed in this saucy little number.

From a distance you will notice the deep autumn colors of greens and oranges. A cool breeze blows and “A Gathering of Leaves” begins. For the Vogue cape Heidi chose a luscious shade of mossy green silk dupioni. She took orange dupioni leaves and appliquéd them in a cascading fashion. A shower of dimensional leaves nestle into the background that was free-motion stitched on her mothers’ long arm machine as a tribute to the sewing skills she taught Heidi. The spectacular leaves are made from various fabrics including silks, sheers, upholstery fabrics, suedes, and cottons. Half of the leaves were made using Heidi’s free-motion dimensional technique incorporating water-soluble stabilizer. The rest were created on her mother’s embroidery machine. As with many of Heidi’s wearables, she appliquéd, then applied enormous quantities of ﬁ bers, buttons, beads, silk ribbon, and Swarovski crystals. “The baubles that make life glitter,” as her mother would have said. Heidi dedicates this autumnal ensemble to her mother, Iona Rose Lund, who left this world in February 2006… just a leaf blowing in the wind, in the circle of life. A GATHERING OF LEAVES BY HEIDI LUND

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FIELDS OF GOLD BY ETTA McFARLAND

The inspiration for this garment came from a skein of ribbon that Etta found in a yarn shop. Beautiful variegated colors, from smoky grey to olive green and gold with a shot of silver down the center, made Etta immediately want to weave it. The elegant, shimmery fabric that resulted was used as the base for the appliqué seen in the strapless top and on the border of the skirt. Meandering fl ower and leaf designs were cut from black silk velvet from Thai Silks. Because the silk velvet is prone to melt under high heat, Etta chose to glue, rather than fuse, the appliqué and the gold yarn that edges it, couching it all with Sulky thread. The vine and leaf designs in each section are long continuous pieces of fabric. The design from the beautiful gold-embroidered silk organza was embossed onto the velvet by laying the velvet on the organza, right sides together, and steaming it, adding a beautiful subtle touch. Adhesive rhinestones from Kandi Corp. add sparkle to the front panel of the skirt, and gold metallic trim between skirt sections adds an elegant fi nishing touch. The black blossoms seem to be standing out in fi elds of gold.

Even before the invitation to be a designer for the 2006 BERNINA® Fashion Show, inspiration for Rainbow Rhapsody came to Barbara McKie in a dream of an empire-waisted garment with a color wheel of streaming ribbons. The next inspiration came from the color-wheel fabrics available from Island Batiks and the Zwade fusible imitation suede from Kandi Corp. First calculations of the amount of fabric needed were so great that the design was changed to shorten the streamers; this positively affected the design. Once the suede arrived, its weight suggested adding cutouts in the streamers, again enhancing the design. Making semi-circles at the junction of the tops of the bodice and sleeves gave the start of the design for the crystals. Finally, the idea of continuing the color wheel pattern around the neckline resulted in the crystal patterns in this area. After the garment was completed, the choker necklace design and the purse and its crystal designs came naturally from the Swarovski crystal patterns on the sleeve and front of the garment. The suede purse is lined with strips of the batik colors used in the garment. RAINBOW RHAPSODY BY BARBARA BARRICK McKIE

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WOODLAND CASCADE BY MICHELLE MITCHELL

Intrigued with the spring blossoms of the Weeping Cherry trees in her neighborhood, Michelle wanted to capture their drape and opu- lence. After a little research and sketching she was ready to start playing with fabrics to let her ideas grow. A collection of luscious silks from Thai Silks - in colors from raspberry to deep purple - was added to fabric from her vintage silk kimono collection. The periwinkle blue silk dupioni was selected as the main fabric, with strip piecing added to create interest and color play. Jacket sections were machine quilted using the triple straight stitch for emphasis. Next came stitching with fl oral and leaf patterns from her BERNINA® artista 185. Fusible interfacing was added to the delicate silks to stabilize them for raw edge appliqué, sewn with varying widths of zigzag stitching to convey the heavy drape of the blooming tree branches. A simple straight skirt bal- ances the heavily decorated jacket. The camisole in raspberry silk noil was machine-quilted and appli- quéd in the same manner as the jacket. This elegant suit required the fi nishing touch of a cocktail hat. Michelle refurbished and embellished a vintage hat to complement the outfi t and crown it perfectly.

Daydreaming of her wedding, Mullen’s daughter sketched this original design. The robe and cropped pants are made of butter cream silk charmeuse. The waist wrap, reminiscent of an obi, and the trap- ezoidal shaped train are covered in a shimmering palette of warm and cool earth-toned silk dupioni shapes appliquéd to the creamy silk dupioni background. The waist wrap is quilted in straight parallel lines, top to bottom, at ¼” inter- vals with boning added at the seams for support. Both the waist wrap and train are quilted with gold metallic thread and are fi nished with silk bias binding. The silk fl owers, “Akebia and Field Clover,” from the book Fabled Flowers by Kumiko Sudo, are amassed on the shoulders, scattered along to the end of the train and cascaded down the front. Swarovski crystals and pearls generously adorn the shoulders, following the trail of fl owers. The headpiece, consist- ing of additional fl orets, remnants and a chopstick, is, indeed the “cherry blossom” on top of this silky-smooth sensation. Married in July, Mullen’s daughter wore a completely different dreamy design. GRACE COMES IN SILKEN SPLENDOR BY JUDY MULLEN

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FASHIONISTA BY JUSTINE LIMPUS PARISH

With a vision of showing a new way to look at “ArtWear,” Justine’s gown is a combination of historic costume references and opu- lent surface embellishment with modern materials, fi t, and a 21st century aesthetic. Fashionista combines the romance of the Belle Epoch with the edginess of modern Hip Hop. The garment is built on a sheer stretch undergarment, in fabric much like the material in ballroom dancing costumes. Swarovski crystals were applied fi rst, with pieces of bridal tulle over the top for protection; fuzzy ivory and moss green sparkle yarns were added, and then the entire garment was free-motion stitched. A petticoat of tulle was attached to the sheer undergarment just above the knees, and a layer of shibori- pleated multi-colored panels of iridescent sage and lavender chiffon was attached at the waist. Starting at one shoulder are shibori-pleated organza panels accented with Metallic Halo-Paint from Jacquard Products. The fi nal detail is the swag of organza pieces with giant “tassels” to hold in the back drape of the full pleated skirt. With a nod to the turn of the last century bustle look, this helps to maintain the narrow shape and adds a surprise to the back view.

In 1929, a perfume debuted called “Evening in Paris.” The beautiful cobalt blue bottle held illusion- ary dreams of romantic nights underneath a blanket of silvery stars twinkling above the Eiffel Tower. Evening in Paris by Susan Patzer-Hicks brings her dream of traveling to Paris a bit closer. Adapted from a Laughing Moon pattern, the satin bustier with an embroidered rose spray of fuchsia, rose, and chartreuse threads with fuchsia metallic ribbon creates a romantic vision. The embroidery design was a quilting stencil that was scanned, digitized and stitched. The skirt, made from an original pattern, has twelve godets of silk dupioni. An adaptation of a Kayla Kennington pattern, the evening coat features panels of cream-colored linen and silk fabric that are joined with 310 hand-sewn fuchsia Swarovski crystals. Adorned with an embroidered rose spray of fuchsia, rose, and chartreuse threads, this coat has a back panel featuring the Eiffel Tower stitched in silver metallic thread. A band of the embroidered panel was attached to the thrift store hat. The tri-colored purse features an embroidered panel framed with self-made piping, and was made with a pattern and hardware by Ghee’s. EVENING IN PARIS BY SUSAN PATZER-HICKS

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REMINISCE BY VINCE QUEVEDO

In 1992 Vince created his fi rst wedding dress from lace and fabric found hidden under three feet of dirt in his basement. Apparently, the previous owner was the local dressmaker and for decades had collected buttons, lace, and fabric. After her death, her distraught husband buried the items. The treasure trove of sewing material was the start of Vince’s “Americana Collection” celebrating American ingenuity and resourcefulness in quilting and clothing construction. Reminisce is a departure from the rest of the collection with the use of ruffl ed lace and muslin but it holds true to Vince’s design philoso- phy - to include simplicity, beauty and glamour in every creation. Lace purchased for this dress was thirty-three cents a yard and the fabric, one dollar a yard. Approximately 300 yards of lace were used for the dress and train. A chevron pattern was used so that seams for the panels could be sewn with ease. This close-fi tting wedding dress was designed to have a “wow” factor when the bride walks down the aisle – a detachable train with a large fabric bow adorned with a bouquet of soft roses. The dress can be worn strapless or with a tie behind the neck.

Fun and funky, this casual outfi t is made from fabulous Rayon Batik by Island Batiks. The coat is a modifi ed Simplicity pattern with the front and lower back edges completely redesigned to give a curved appearance to the facing area of the coat. Jenny drew the fuchsia appliqué designs for the coat, top and pants - embellishing them with DMC Pearl Cotton in shades of lilac and purple and an overcast stitch. Magenta perle cotton embellished the inside of the designs in a stipple stitch. Random shapes were fused to the lining/facing area and stitched in place with a narrow overcast stitch. The coat is edged in lime green piping. The bias tubing focal point design and closure on the coat are made from multi-color bias. Ap- proximately 800 Swavorski crystals from Kandi Corp embellish the coat. The vest was drawn onto Sulky Fabri-Solvy™, then stitched in a 1” grid. Ribbons and yarns were used and the outside edges were fi nished with perle cotton using an overcast stitch. After the stitching was complete, the vest was cut out, sewn together, and the stabilizer dissolved.

MANDARIN, RASPBERRY SALSA WITH A TWIST OF LIME BY JENNY RAYMOND

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MADAME MACAW BY DIANE RICKS

A fl ash of red reveals the brilliant plumage of scarlet macaws fl ut- tering about among the highest branches of a tropical rain forest. Using a technique she calls “Feathery Frays,” Diane Ricks combines layers of brilliantly colored silk, cut on the diagonal, washed and brushed into beautiful blossoms of frayed edges. A base of silk organza supports the soft silky layers. On the jacket back Diane hand painted two scarlet macaws on silk charmeuse, then enhanced them with machine quilting and free-motion embroidery. The jacket pattern is the designer’s original creation, made to accent the painting and enhance the theme. When the jacket is removed, just like moving back the leaves, the plumage of the off-the-shoulder dress beneath is revealed. This original design features a bodice of hand dyed silk velvet, quilted to a base of Cotton Classic in a feather design. Boning was added for support, while crimson seed beads and gold sequins add sparkle. The skirt is truly magnifi cent as layer after layer of feather-shaped, hand-dyed silk ribbons fl utter to the fl oor; every passing breeze adds motion and lift to these glorious silk “feathers.”

Jennifer Stern’s outstanding style of elegance with a twist of modern individuality is evident in this silk and suede, original design, ¾ length coat teamed with leather jeans and a delicate silk top. The coat features her 3-dimensional signature technique. She embroiders on unwashed silk, soaks the panels in hot water to shrink them, then stipple-quilts the fabric to silk batting to make her original digitized paisley and ﬂ oral designs “pop.” Lavender suede binding ﬁ nishes the front and bottom edges of this jacket; closures were created from Swarovski crystals and seed beads. Created from oyster white, supple pigskin, the jeans Jennifer designed are a testament to her persistence over the past years to perfect her pattern drafting skills. The embroidered designs that travel the right side from pocket to hem range in color from palest blue to deepest indigo. Designing the top presented the greatest challenge to Jennifer. After several re- visions, she created a heavily embroidered, shaped bodice to set off raw-edged, smocked silk panels alternated with embroidered, thread painted panels. Large Swarovski crystals elegantly embellish the V-neckline. ALWAYS AND FOR LEATHER BY JENNIFER STERN

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CONSIDER THE LILIES BY LINDA STEWART

The biblical quote “consider the lilies” compares those beautiful fl owers to Solomon in all his magnifi cence. Gold is equated with royalty (Solomon was a king after all) and Linda selected an iridescent silk in dusty rose with highlights of gold for the skirt and gold silk with rose highlights for the bodice. Remembering that the lilies are even more impressive than Solomon, these amazing colors, nearly alive in their vibrancy, were the perfect choices. Linda found making the lilies the greatest challenge because even though she had made hundreds of silk fl owers, lilies were not among them. The shape of a lily is very distinctive and none of the normal techniques for fl owers seemed to work. The answer came when she met a young lady from Thailand who showed her how to make fl owers using metallic wire and pantyhose. Embellishments include machine embroidery designs by OESD and DigiBobbE designs provided by YLI. Swarovski crystals add sparkle. God still does a better job with His beautiful lilies, but Solomon’s queen would look “Magnifi que!” in this gown made with silk, gold, crystals–and pantyhose!

Noelle had two ideas for her design and decided to bring them together in “Gingkoes Go Motown… East Meets West.” One idea had to do with a stash of pressed Gingko leaves she had collected, and the other came from a PBS special featuring La La Brooks, the original lead singer for the Crystals in 1963. On the special, La La is 40 years older, elegant, full of energy, and wearing a long duster with lapels covered with heavily textured yarn. Using the Gingko leaf motif of a Thai Silks hand-painted silk charmeuse with rich colors of bronze, copper, gold and brass, as well as vibrant hot pink, soft pink, mauve and plum, motifs were “fussy” cut from the silk for the leaves and fused onto panels of silk, then free-motion machine stitched with black thread to add stems and vein details. The duster’s base fabric is a rich burgundy synthetic suede; the yarn embellishment on the lapels and cuffs also has gold beads for added sparkle. The duster covers a black silk stretch charmeuse top and pants. Worn over them is an overlay “vest” of hand-painted silk ginkgo leaves - cut out, then connected with machine stitching to form a lacy design, looking as though they are falling from the tree.

GINGKOES GO MOTOWN…EAST MEETS WEST BY NOELLE TAMBORINI-OLSON

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REIGNING WOOL BY LORRAINE TORRENCE

Wool, the queen of fi bers, is used by Lorraine Torrence as a par- fait of pastels wrapping her in warmth and showing her cool at the same time. This felted wool and nylon blend from Marcus Brothers is wavy cut and reassembled like pieces of a jigsaw puzzle. Zigzagged together with transparent nylon thread on a muslin foundation, the rectangles of the coat join felted winter white wool in a grid of wavy- edged sashing. Above the grid fl oat curves, wiggles, slivers and dots of more felted wool. The coat, a modifi cation of the Pacifi c Rim Coat pattern from Lorraine Torrence Designs, is closed with amber Bake- lite discs in which a single hole is drilled to attach vintage yellow ball buttons that echo the clusters of wool dots. This wintry wrap falls to the ground, covering a classic cardigan jacket and winter wool slacks made from Lorraine Torrence Design’s Class Act Ensemble pattern. The jacket has more wavy-edged wools in the colors of frosty sorbets cut in irregular chunks and icicles topstitched with shimmering rayon. This winter ensemble would not be complete without a cozy hat to keep her ears warm…and stylish! A pompom of wavy-edged trimmings adds the fi nishing touch to “Reigning Wool”!

Just like an elegantly-colored butterfl y that fl utters through the sky and fi lls us with joy, this garment’s rich turquoise and burnt orange colors fl utter and dance out of the darkness of a night sky. Fashioned from a vintage Vogue pattern, the jacket and dress stay true to the era in black gabardine and smooth black satin. The jacket is a combination of pintucked elegance and needle punched silk fi bers that are accented by couched yarn applied using the BERNINA® Freemotion Couching Foot with the artista embroidery module. Beads and sequins create a delicate sparkle. The black satin dress has couched yarn accenting the hem, again applied as an embroidered design. The dress insets have been pleated, then tucked and beaded for a more dramatic effect. Fabric that is pintucked, pleated, twisted, couched and felted with silk fi bers, then accented with beads and sequins, creates graceful, timeless elegance. Like the vintage woman, this garment is elegant and gracious, feminine and bold, vibrant and rich with class. She is conservative in basic black, but accented with majestic, dancing colors that reveal her personality. A GENTLE GLIMPSE OF GRACE BY SUSAN VAN SWEARINGEN

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TATSU BY AMANDA WHITLATCH

Japanese for “dragon,” Tatsu is the perfect name for this richly embroidered pantsuit. It started with Amanda Whitlatch’s fascination with embroidery. Her ability to push the creative limits resulted in this dramatic creation. Inspired by a new technique for splitting large embroidery designs, Amanda started with a design from the OESD Dragons I Collection. The original 4” dragon, stitched on the left sleeve, was enlarged 500%, then split into sixteen pieces and embroidered on the jacket back. Almost three feet tall, the giant dragon was stitched with Isacord embroidery thread and contains over ½ million stitches! The loose ﬁ tting, below hip length jacket is fully reversible and lined and accented in red silk dupioni. The dragon from the right sleeve was enlarged and stitched on the jeans. A Tribal design from the BERNINA® artista 730E embroidery system was stitched on both the jeans and the jacket. The button closure on the jacket was provided by Amanda’s 105-year-old Great Aunt Catherine. The tapered denim pant is accented with red silk dupioni bands at the lower edge of each leg.

Special thanks to all of our Magniﬁ que! designers, many of whom create custom garments on commission, teach wearable art techniques, or publish books and articles on garment design and wearable art.

To contact a designer, write to:

DESIGNER NAME c/o Bernina Fashion Show Quilts, Inc 7660 Woodway, Suite 550 Houston, TX 77063 USA A SPECIAL THANKS!

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Expressive Lace™ & © 2006 Blosil Enterprises, LLC. Produced BY MARIE OSMOND Under License by OESD, Inc. All Rights Reserved. What a wonderful combination – winter white and lace! Turn an ordinary unlined jacket into a spectacular creation with the simple addition of lace edging using designs from the Expressive Lace™ Collection by Marie Osmond, Lace Up Your Life Vol. 1. Make your own jacket or purchase a ready-to-wear jacket for an even quicker project. Look for an unlined jacket with simple styling.

SUPPLIES: • Purchased Unlined Jacket • Expressive Lace™ by Marie Osmond, Lace Up Your Life Vol. l - Design CC82705 - Design CC82702 • OESD Aqua Mesh Water Soluble Stabilizer • Isacord Thread 0101 or color of your choice • Helmarʼs Fray Stoppa seam sealant • eXplorations Embroidery Software (optional)

PLANNING THE DESIGN Determine the number of motifs that will be needed for your jacket by printing multiple copies of the templates using embroidery software or by photocopy- ing the designs from the center point sheets (templates) provided in the collection’s packaging. Note: To plan your design using eXplorations embroidery software, see sidebar on the next page.

Place the jacket on a ﬂ at surface and pin the printed templates on the edge of the jacket to see how many are needed. Put the motifs over the hem area so that they are almost touching one another. Place the larger design (CC82705) rotated at slightly less than a 45º angle; position the smaller design (CC82702) between the larger designs. The center of the smaller design should be slightly above the center of the larger design.

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STITCHING THE MOTIFS Hoop Aqua Mesh Water Soluble Stabilizer and attach the hoop to the machine; stitch the lace, re-hooping as needed.

Remove the hoop from the machine and cut away the excess stabilizer; rinse the remaining stabilizer away under warm running water and allow the lace to dry.

COMPLETING THE JACKET

ON-SCREEN PLANNING An easy “on-screen” method to deter- Position and pin the lace in place along the lower edge of the jacket. The lower mine the number and placement of the edge of the lace should extend to the bottom of the jacket with the smaller fl owers designs is to use a scanner and eXplo- sitting up higher as shown. rations Embroidery Software. Scan the Zigzag around the outer edges of each of the fl owers with a short, narrow zigzag hem area of the jacket where you wish stitch. the lace to be and save it as a JPEG or BITMAP fi le at 100% and 72 dpi. Other formats can be opened with Ex- plorations Software, but these are the most common. If you wish for the lace to completely encircle the hem area, scan the area from the front opening to the center back. Open a new project in Explorations Software. In the Articles mode, click Picture. Browse to fi nd the JPEG or BITMAP you saved and open

Trim the fabric of the jacket close to the lace pieces. it. If you scanned more than one area of the jacket, you can bring multiple pic- tures into the same screen and overlap, grouping them so that you can see the entire hem area of the jacket. Position the motifs as described in the method using paper templates. Depending on the size of the jacket and the size of your hoop, you may be able to stitch the lace in one hooping. If not, split the design into smaller segments. Remember to stitch one set of lace for each side of the jacket. Mirror imaging one set will give Apply seam sealant on the wrong side of the jacket along the cut edges to pre- the most pleasing results. vent raveling. Hint: Squeeze Fray Stoppa into a small container and use an aritst’s brush to apply the Fray Stoppa to the edges. Clean the brush with alcohol.

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Th is simple peasant-style top is actually a lightweight, feminine jacket that By Kristie J Smith completes almost any outﬁ t from jeans to sundresses. Use a few BERNINA® techniques to make the process easy and add a decorative stitch recipe down the front for a touch of color.

Note: While any BERNINA® sewing machine can be used, I used the activa 240 to make this great beginner project. It’s easy to sew following the instructions that are included with the pattern and the BERNINA® options below make it even more effortless with professional results.

Basic Construction Construct garment bodice following the pattern instructions to assemble front, back, and shoulder seams. All raw edges of the seams were ﬁ nished using a BERNINA® serger and 4-thread overlock stitch.

Sleeves/Peplum Spray sleeve rufﬂ e and peplum pieces with starch/ sizing to give body. Before sewing rufﬂ es/peplum to sleeves and bodice, use Hemmer Foot #61 to hem the bottom edges and the sides (front opening) of the peplum. Note: For video instruction on using hemmer feet, go to www.berninausa.com > Products > Accessories > Presser Feet > Hemmer Feet.

Use Gathering Foot #16/16C to gather the upper edges of the rufﬂ es and peplum. Set the stitch length to about 3mm (or adjust according to the weight of fabric). Sew along the edge, gathering the fabric in the process.

Attach ruffl es to sleeves while sleeves are fl at. After stitching with a Straight Stitch, fi nish the seam allowances with serger, zigzag, or other edge stitching. Press seam upward.

Thread the machine with Isacord thread and attach Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C. Choose any decorative stitch – the one used on the sample is activa 240 stitch #37; stitch over the seam allowance on the right side of garment with right side of seam against the inner right toe of the foot. (Note: If you have a 9mm machine, use Foot #20C and widen your stitch as desired.)

Ease and attach sleeve to bodice. Close side seams.

Attach the peplum in the same manner as the sleeve rufﬂ es, except do not sew the decorative stitch at this time.

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Decorative Stitching With a ruler and marking pen, mark a • Simplicity line about 2” from center front down both pattern #4130, sides of shirt. Place stabilizer underneath the fabric. jacket with sleeve rufﬂ es Choose activa 240 stitch #37 and sew down the marked lines on the front of the and peplum shirt. Change thread color, Select activa • Lightweight 240 stitch #33 and align the outer foot white-on-white cotton fabric edge on the stitched line toward the center front of garment. Stitch. Choose (per pattern + lining) activa 240 stitch #48 and continue as before. • Mettler thread for construction

Remove excess stabilizer from the wrong side of the garment. • Spray starch or sizing Note: Support the stitches while removing excess stabilizer to avoid • Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C distorting them. • 2mm Zigzag Hemmer Foot #61 Lining • Gathering Foot #16/16C Prepare the lining by ® constructing according • BERNINA Serger (optional) to the pattern instructions. • Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C 5 Press a /8” hem to the wrong side using • Isacord thread for decorative stitches the IS 60 iron; press • OESD Lightweight Tear-away stabilizer armhole edges inward ® ½”. Pin the lining to • Bernette IS 60 iron the shirt around the • Edgestitch Foot #10/10C neck and down the front of the garment with right sides together. Attach Reverse pattern Foot #1/1C and thread the machine with construction thread; sew around pinned areas. Clip seams as needed for smooth edges and turn the garment to the right side. Attach Edgestitch Foot #10/10C, move needle position to the The stitch numbers left and topstitch around the opening of the garment to secure the listed for this project facings and deﬁ ne the edges. Move the needle position to center and stitch in the ditch of sleeve caps to secure lining. are for the activa 240 model of Pin lining to peplum top with the folded lower edge covering the BERNINA® machines. seam allowance. Attach Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C and If using another select activa 240 stitch #37. Thread with decorative thread and ® topstitch using around the peplum on right side of garment, securing current BERNINA the lining in the process. model, consult the new Stitch Conversion Chart available at www. Attach hooks and eyes for closures. Option: When attaching shirt berninausa.com. Go to Sewing Studio > Basic to lining, add ribbons to garment for closure instead of hook/eye option. Training > Stitch Conversion Chart.

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Options for Needle Felting BY AMY BARICKMAN

I love embellishment and I love wearing it - the more the better! Whether picking out just the right bracelet or necklace to wear with a garment or actually creating a garment with embellishment, there’s something fun about sharing your creative style with others.

Needle Felting Today’s fashions are all about adornment, and needle felting offers an easy and versatile method for embellishment. The technique we at Indygo Junction prefer is dry felting and involves the method using barbed needles to permanently mesh wool and other fi bers together. When the needle is passed through layers, the barbs meld them together without the use of any stitches. Dry felting/needle felting is fl exible and forgiving and offers many design options. Sometimes called needle punching, the needling can be done by hand or machine or a combination of the two. Wool or natural fi bers are your best choices for materials. Other trims, fi bers, and fabrics will work, although some may require more effort to felt into the base fabric. If you are in doubt as to what might work, make a small sample piece.

Needle Choices The choice between a single needle/multiple needle hand tool or sewing machine accessory depends on the project and on individual preference. Clover offers a fi ve-needle spring action tool with a locking protective cover. A stiff brush base protects the table (or lap) for the repetitive needle penetrations and allows the needle to pass freely through the fabric in both directions. Needle felting by machine with the Needle Punch Accessory Set by BERNINA® offers the advantage of speed and consistency of the needle penetrations, which is particularly helpful with dense fabrics like denim (see side bar on following page). The vest to the left, Indygo Junction’s Reversible Wrap pattern IJ765, created from a pair of jeans or denim yardage, features bark cloth, wool, fi ber and yarn that have been combined to create the needle felted fl oral appliqué.

In Indygo Junction’s Needle Felting, Amy has Getting Started brought together a group of talented designers Adding needle felted details to a ready-made garment is a great beginner’s and introduced them to the fabulous crafting project. Try creating a design with wool yarns. Also consider incorporat- technique of needle felting. The resulting proj- ing needle felting into a garment during construction as we did here with a ects boast Indygo Junction’s sophisticated style variation of the One Button Swing Topper IJ725 featured in Indygo Junction’s signature…handmade style for the creative Needle Felting. Sometimes a design can be easily adapted from one type of spirit. Just released from C & T publishing. embellishment to another. For example, the needle felted ﬂ oral that adorns

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the collar and front edge of the Retro Raglan Jacket IJ764 could be free-motion embroidered or stitched as an appliqué. Better yet, combine the two - and why not try adding some beading!

Project Ideas The Easy Silhouette Jacket IJ741 and Vest IJ730 patterns offer a wonderful design for needle felted accents. The cuffs, turned-back collar, and panels are perfect areas for needle felting. A whimsi- cal design to create in wool The Needle Punch Accessory Set by appliqué and fi ber is included in BERNINA® utilizes the up-and-down motion the pattern. of the sewing machine needle bar to entangle One Button Swing Topper IJ725 fi bers quickly and easily. The technique for needle punching by machine is similar to Needle felted fashions can include purses and that of free-motion stitching, except that no totes. Here an abstract design is created in the thread is used. Instead, the bobbin and hook Two Times Two Tote IJ754. What fun it can be system of the machine is removed, a special to experiment with different combinations of stitch plate with a rather large hole near the fabrics and fi bers. front is substituted for the regular plate, and a set of 5 barbed needles replaces the usual Try felting and you will be hooked–it is easy single needle. In addition, a large presser foot to learn and the possibilities for creative - which acts both as a “hoop” to keep the embellishment are endless! For more fabric from fl agging and as a guard to prevent information on needle felting patterns and fi ngers from moving under the needles - is at- books, visit: www.indygojunction.com. tached to the machine. The Needle Punch Accessory Set is available for most, but not all, machines in the current line.

The Easy Silhouette Jacket IJ741 and Vest IJ730 (not shown)

Retro Raglan Jacket IJ764

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BY MICAH KELLY Embroidery Planning A treasure hunt at a local Here’s an easy formula to calculate the amount of designs needed for an embroidered skirt: consignment shop yielded an (A) = the width of the dress from back to back outﬁ t perfect for creating (B) = the width of your design + 1” (for space between designs) an evening ensemble. An (A) ÷ (B) = (C) the number of designs needed around the dress (round up or down to the nearest whole number.) embellished belt, simple A-line skirt, sleeveless top, and coordinating hat were transformed with the help of Creating the Skirt Design Open design NA697 in eXplorations. embroidery, glitz, and feathers. • Select the design & Duplicate it. Using the belt for inspiration, • Mirror Image it both vertically and horizontally. outline-style designs were • Select All and Group (See Diagram 1). embroidered using Yenmet • Duplicate this new, grouped design and select Mirror Horizontal.

metallic thread. EZ Glitz Open design NA701. crystals, along with small • Duplicate it 4 times and place these randomly around the original. feathers were added, and the • Select All and Duplicate. creation became a knock-out • Place this 1” away from original design. Hint: Use the Measure function to check the space between the designs. (See Diagram 2) skirt that originally cost pennies to purchase! Th e plain black Open Th reads Mode turtleneck top was transformed • In Th read Sequence, Select the Color 2 chip; drag it to color one. with a fabulous feather “necklace”. • Continue to do this until there is only one color showing. • In the Th read Chooser, select your desired color. (See Diagram 3) For the fi nal touch, glitzed feathers were added to the hat, Open Hoops mode & select your hoop. Th e following instructions are along with embroidered for the Multiple Hooping option: appliqués for a breathtaking, • Click Place Hoops; add a second hoop and move them until the designs are green, indicating that they fi t in the hoops. couture-quality ensemble that’s • Open connect mode, click “Export to File”, select the fi le format you need, and click Save. When amazingly easy to recreate. So shop prompted, click “Yes; export one fi le for every hooping”. the thrift stores and fi nd your own • You will see a preview of the hoopings. Click on each hooping to see the order the designs will sew. Notice the registration marks; the marks at the end of one hooping will align with marks at the “rags” to turn into riches! beginning of the next hooping.

Supplies: • Garments to embellish: Long 2- • OESD Badge Master • OESD Bobbin thread • BERNINA® Sewing/Embroidery layer A-line skirt, Plain straw hat • HRFive temporary adhesive • Organ Embroidery Needles system • 8’x10’’ piece of organdy spray • eXplorations Embroidery Software • OESD Design pack: #12071/ • Large straight feathers • Wood or stencil burning tool • EZ Glitzer & Glitzing Crystals designs NA697 & NA701 • Bendable medium sized feathers • Yenmet metallic thread #S-1 • Helmar 450 glue

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Diagram 1 Diagram 2 Diagram 3 Stitching the Skirt Design • Find the center front of the skirt. Work from center, to sides, to back in order to have your design Hat centered when fi nished • Hoop a piece of Badgemaster washaway Embellishment stabilizer and spray with HRFive. Adhere the fabric to the Badgemaster. • Stitch the entire fi rst design; the last color will sew registration marks. • Remove design from hoop & rinse away the Badgemaster. • Hoop a new piece of Badgemaster. • Place hoop onto machine (no fabric). • Select the second design and stitch only the fi rst color; these are the registration marks. • Place the hoop onto a padded, gridded, pressing board, aligning the center of the hoop with the grids • Hoop a piece of Badgemaster; spray it on the board. with HRFive temporary spray adhesive. • Spray Badgemaster with HRFive temporary spray adhesive. • Adhere the organdy to the stabilizer. • Place a pin into each of the registration marks of the fi rst hooping. • Embroider one of the hoopings. • Align the registration marks with the new marks on the stabilizer by pinning into the registration • Cut away the excess stabilizer and trim marks of the second hooping. the organdy around the outside of the • Adjust fabric so it lies fl at in hoop. (Use the grids on the board to keep fabric straight and on grain.) design, being careful not to cut the • Smooth fabric onto stabilizer, then remove pins. stitches. • Place hoop back on machine and stitch the remaining colors of the second design. • Use a wood or stencil burning tool to • If the overall design has more than two hoopings, the last color change of the second design will be melt the fabric at the edges. the registration marks for the next hooping. • Glue the designs and feathers to the hat • Repeat the process for the third hooping and so on until design is complete on the skirt. with Helmar 450 glue • Glitz the feather stems with crystals to Skirt Feathers match the skirt. • Take a medium bendable feather and wrap it around the end of a marking pen.

• Hand-sew around all layers of the feather and tie oﬀ . • Repeat this on the other edge of the feather. • Remove the feather and hand-sew it to Feathered Top the embroidery designs. To embellish the top, hand-stitch feath- • Embellish generously with the EZ ers to the neckline. Glitzer!

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BY JILL DANKLEFSEN

Create simple stitch recipes by combining decorative stitches from your BERNINA® machine with fabric markers for rich, colorful embellishments. Reminiscent of coloring books and crayons, it’s so easy, anyone can do it! The recipes shown here were designed to coordinate with the Spice Market fabric collection from Benartex. The ﬁ rst one, Shaded Floral uses a directional motif found on BERNINA® sewing machines with directional capabilities (artista 730, 200, 185, 180, and 1630 Inspiration). The second recipe, Fall Flowers, can be stitched with other BERNINA® models – and these are only the beginning!

Coloring Tips for Shaded Florals (see page 52) • Use a combination of colors from the Bright and Pastel palettes - - - - Brights - #156-Brick; #165-Pine; #154-Chocolate - Pastels - #160-Celadon (green); #132-Apricot; #131-Maize; #157-Ash Rose • Large fl ower: Paint the light color near the center fi rst, then add the dark color to fi ll the fl ower. • Leaves: Paint the dark outline fi rst, then add the lighter color in the center. COLOR YOUR WORLD! • Smaller fl owers: Paint the petals, coloring some areas darker, blending into Marie Osmond’s Fabric Markers are easy to use, acid-free, and fade-resistant. the rest of the petal. They come in 2 different coloration packs – Pastels and Brights. The markers have 2 different tips – bullet tip and brush tip – to make detail work easy. Blend colors to give a painted look to your stitches!

General Marker Tips • Work on a hard surface such as a table or counter. • Fabric is easier to “paint” if it is backed with interfacing and/or stabilizer for added body. • Use the brush tip for small areas and fi ne detail; lightly touch the tiny tip of the brush to the fabric. • The bullet tip is fi rmer and good for drawing bolder lines and fi lling in larger areas. • A single marker gives both light and dark variations of the same color – go over the same area several times to make it darker. • Imagine how you want the fl ower or leaf to look and simply color that way - radiating lines, swirls, etc. • Store pens horizontally to keep both pen tips well-inked. • Keep pens capped when not in use to keep ink moist.

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Coloring Tips for Fall Flowers (see below) • Use a combination of colors from the Bright and Stitches used in these recipes: artista Pastel palettes - - - #148, #206, and #732. If your machine does Brights - #156-Brick; #165-Pine not have these particular stitches, refer to Pastels - #131-Maize the Stitch Conversion Chart located on the • Using the brush tip of the markers, fi ll in the fl owers, BERNINA® website. Sewing Studio > Basic alternating colors Training > Stitch Conversion Chart • Using the brush tip of the markers, fi ll in the leaves

To see what can be created with these painted stitches. Go to www.berninausa.com for a Free Project using these recipes and Benartex’s Spice Market collection.

If using a machine without directional capability, here’s another simple recipe that can be used with the Spice Market collection.

SUPPLIES • Microtex Sharp needle – 80/12 • Linen or linen blend fabric – off-white • Clear Foot #34/34C – one fat quarter • HRFIVE temporary Spray Adhesive • Armo® Weft fusible interfacing • Marking pen • OESD Lightweight Tear-away Stabilizer • Ruler • Isacord threads – black and matching • Marie Osmond Fabric Markers from green of your choice OESD, both Pastel and Brights

Fall Flowers

INSTRUCTIONS Machine Set-Up elect Stitch #148 nd bobbin • Attach Clear Foot #34/34C; s dle; thread with black Isacord thread top a • Insert Microtex nee

® Fabric Preparation Weft interfacing to the wrong side n blend fabric by fusing Armo h temporary spray adhesive • Prepare a length of line ear-away stabilizer to the back, adhering it wit • Add lightweight t

Adding Stitches s long as desired • Stitch a row of the fl oral stitch a een Isacord thread callops a presser foot width away • Change to a coordinating gr callops • Frame the fl oral stitches with Stitch #732; position theon sfor the second row so the s – one row on each side (use the Mirror Image functi are facing) s fabric markers. Coloration fl owers to life using Marie Osmond’ After the stitching is complete, ndbring techniques. the See page 50 for painting tips a

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This distinctive ﬂ oral design starts as a programmed outline motif, sewn using a BERNINA® sewing machine with directional capabilities (artista 180, 185, 200, 730). For a custom look, add shading and coloration with fabric markers! Shaded Floral

INSTRUCTIONS Machine Set-Up Latch case for bobbin) bobbin (use Gold Select Stitch 206; attach Sidewayswith Motion black Isacord Foot #40C thread top and Insert Microtex needle; thread

Practice Makes Perfect sure it stitches perfectly. approx. 6” square. Test the selected motif to make hind to do a test sew – y 2”. p of heavy muslin with stabilizer be guidelines on the fabric about ever • Use a scra marker, draw parallel • Using a wash-away or fadeout t all times. ping presser foot parallel to lines a they do not match, consult • Stitch motif, kee • Lay the plastic template on top of the completedadjustments design. as needed. If If adjusting the balance ake minor balance ® technician to check the your manual and m machine to a BERNINA the technician for does not correct the problem, take the tc.; take the stitched motif to sult of mechanical balance, feed dog height, e ues with newer models are a re reference. Please note: Most pattern distortion iss atching the edge of the foot improper guiding so practice usually solves the problem. W while sewing will help develop your guiding skills. and NOT the needle Shaded Floral cont.

The Real Deal Directional Sewing Tips When you are pleased with the directional sewing • Make sure your machine is project fabric. result, you are ready to stit setup properly: set Presser • To aid in the support ch on of stitching, apply Armo Foot Pressure at normal side of the coordinat ® Weft fusible ing solid fabric pieces. interfacing to the setting and reduce Motor • For stitching, add wrong to ¾ speed. an additional layer of OESD Ligh • Cut pieces to about 5” square – t tweight tear-away stabili • Always use Sideways • Using a wash-away or fadeout marker,his smaller draw sizepar is easier zer to guide while stitching. Motion Foot #40C. every 2”. allel guidelines on the fabric about • Machine should be • Mark placement of the motif in recently cleaned and oiled. Stitch #206. The templ the center of the fabric squares. Do this by ate indicates • Draw visual guidelines on motif. This is where the needl the beginning and end of using the template for the motif. Mark the beg your fabric using a fabric • Stitch the motif e will begin the stitching. inning of the marker. • Don’t watch the needle Tints and Shades while you sew – watch the After the motif is stitched, add color and shading using edge of the presser foot for painting tips and techniques. Marie Osmond’s fabric marker and always keep it parallel s. See page 54 to the drawn guidelines.

SUPPLIES • Armo® Weft fusible interfacing • “Solid” fabrics from Spice Market collec- • OESD Lightweight Tear-away Stabilizer • Marie Osmond Fabric Markers from OESD, tion – green and gold – one fat quarter each • Isacord threads – black both Pastel and Brights Note: These two fabrics actually have a • Microtex Sharp needle – 80/12 subtle print for added interest. This gives • Gold Latch Bobbin Case for rotary hook the illusion of texture but they “read” as • Sideways Motion Foot #40C models with directional capability (artista solids, especially when used in a patchwork • Marking pen 180, 185, 200, 730) quilt. • Ruler • Clear templates (included with manual)

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As a garment sewer, I like to push the creative limits of my serger past the basic clean ﬁ nished seams and speedy piecing to create decorative accents that cannot be duplicated using a sewing machine. This classic linen camisole is a perfect example of a simple garment sewn from a plain fabric made more visually interesting by the addition of embroidery and unique serger stitch applications. The project is simple, fast, and easy with great high-end retail appeal. The creative work found here could easily be translated into a pillow top, dress front or decorative panel on a tote bag.

Overview of Camisole The camisole design features embroidery on the front, framed on the right and left with alternating rows of double stitched serger tucks and ribbon woven ﬂ atlocking. Rows are positioned 1” apart, measured from the outer left and right sides of the center embroidery on the front. The camisole back does not have center embroidery. Flatlock ribbon weaving is serged at center back, framed by a pair of double stitched tucks, one each on the left and right sides.

Left to Right: Double-serged Pintuck, Flatlock Stitch with Ribbon, Double- serged Pintuck, Center Embroidery Design, Double-serged Pintuck, Flatlock Stitch with Ribbon, Double-serged Pintuck

Preparation • Cut out camisole front and back pieces, adding 1” to side seams. • Do not cut out facing pieces – will be replaced with bias bindings. • Using an iron, crease-mark the centerlines on the front and back. • Add length to the pattern pieces. SUPPLIES Embroidery Serger: BERNINA® serger with 2-thread ﬂ atlocking Embroider the design of your capabilities choice along the crease marked Pattern: Any simple, pullover style tank top pattern (sample centerline on the front piece. uses New Look #6483) The sample shows design Fabric: Linen fabric – yardage per pattern plus ¼ yard #BE10228 from the Studio ® Design: Studio BERNINA Exclusive Design Collection, The BERNINA® Exclusive Design Linen Closet Thread: Serger thread in 2 colors: Collection, The Linen Closet. 4 cones all-purpose thread for seaming (matching fabric) 2 cones all-purpose thread for decorative work Position stabilizer on (contrasting color) the wrong side of the 1 cone texturized polyester thread such as YLI Wooly fabric, using temporary Nylon (contrasting color) adhesive to secure; hoop Notions: 1 yard of ½” wide elastic the bonded layers as 1½ yards ¼” wide satin ribbon 2 yards of 2” wide double-faced satin ribbon one. This design was OESD Tear-away stabilizer duplicated and mirror HRFive Temporary Spray Adhesive imaged horizontally to Presser Foot: Edgestitch Foot #10/10C (for sewing machine)

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create the heart-shaped design; it was then mirror imaged vertically Convert serger to a 4-thread overlock stitch and serge the seams in to complete the embroidered band. It was also enlarged to Mega- the following order: Front to back at shoulders, then front to back at Hoop size in order to stitch the largest design possible. After side seams. stitching is complete, remove all stabilizer from the embroidery and prepare to serge. Added Peplum A gently gathered peplum was added to the basic tank pattern to Serge It Twice! Double Stitched Serger Tucks soften the original pattern design. Elegant, well defi ned tucks that appear to be fabric bound are easy to accomplish using a new, double-stitched overlock technique. Measure and cut the camisole 1½” below the waistline to allow for Thread serger for a narrow 3-thread rolled hem following the blousing and a seam allowance at the waist. settings at the bottom of the page. Cut an 8” piece of linen the front to back measurement of the Draw a line 1” to the left and right of the outer edge of the center camisole, plus 1” for two ½” seam allowances. Serge-seam the embroidery. With wrong sides together, press a fold along one short sides of the peplum, forming a circle. drawn line. Serge along the folded line, positioning the fabric so that the stitches fall at the edge. Adjust the differential feed to 2.0. Gently gather one of the long top edges by serging it with the adjusted feed setting. Return differential Raise the upper knife. Stitch a 2nd time over the previous row of feed to “N”, serge-seam the peplum to the camisole bottom. stitching. Position the needle so that it sews just slightly to the left of the fi rst set of needle stitches. This 2nd row of stitches will fi ll any gaps in the 1st row, creating dense thread coverage, replicating a bound tuck. Repeat for the second tuck.

Flatlocked Ribbon Band Thread serger for a 2-Thread Wide Flatlock stitch following the settings at the bottom of the page.

On the wrong side of the fabric, draw a line 1” away from the serger tuck, towards the side seam. With right sides together, fold the camisole along the drawn lines. Serge rows of fl atlocking along these lines. Pull the fl atlock band fl at, creating the “ladders” portion of the stitch on the front of the camisole. Weave ¼” wide ribbon through the fl atlock ladders, securing the ribbon tails at the top and bottom of each row.

Double Stitched Serger Tucks Repeat the previous directions, serging in another set of double stitched tucks 1” away from the ﬂ atlock ribbon bands. Double Rolled Hem Finish As with the double stitched tucks, a rolled hem, stitched 2 times Camisole Back at the lower edge gives a custom piped look to the bottom of the Follow the directions above to mark and serge a centered ﬂ atlock camisole and outer edges of the bindings at the armholes and neck ribbon band, framed by a row of double stitched tucks to the left edges. and right.

2-Thread Wide Flatlock: Left needle – all-purpose 3-Thread Rolled Hem: thread – tension 0 - 1 SERGER SETTINGS 3-Thread Overlock Stitch: Right needle – all-purpose Lower looper – all-purpose Right needle and lower looper: thread – tension 5 thread – tension 5 4-Thread Overlock Stitch: all-purpose thread - tension 5 Left needle - removed Upper looper converter installed Right and left needles: all-purpose Left needle removed Upper looper - texturized nylon Cutting width*: 4 serger thread - tension 5 Upper looper: texturized nylon thread - tension 4-5 Stitch length: 4 Upper and lower loopers: all- thread - tension 4-5 Lower looper – all-purpose serger *Note: If working on a BERNINA purpose thread - tension 5 Cutting width – 2½ thread - tension 7-8 serger with mtc (Micro Thread Cutting width – 2½ Stitch length – 2 Cutting width: 1 Control), adjust the mtc knob to its Stitch length – 2 Stitch length: 1½ widest setting. This will build in more “wiggle room” in the stitch formation and create an extra-wide ﬂ atlock stitch.

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Roll hem along the lower edge of the peplum. Raise the upper Flip the bindings to the garment right side; the seam allowances knife. Serge a second time over the previous row of stitching. will be covered by the bias strips. Machine stitch the bindings in Position the needle so that it sews slightly to the left of the previous place along the rolled hem edge using a sewing machine and the row of stitching. Edgestitch Foot #10/10C.

“Piped” Bias Binding Elastic Waistline “Piped” bound edges are easy to serge using the same double Measure around the camisole waistline and cut a 1½” wide strip stitching technique as for the lower hem. Serging the ﬁ nished of linen this length, plus 1”. This is the casing for the elastic; press bindings in place after edging yields a narrow seam that will not under ½” at each short end. need to be clipped to allow for a smooth roll to the right side. From the garment interior, position and straight stitch (using a Set serger for the same roll hem settings as the double rolled edge sewing machine) the casing in place, beginning and ending at a hem. Cut 3” wide strips of bias linen the length of the armholes side seam. Cut elastic a comfortable waistline measurement. Guide and neckline. Add 1” to each of these bias cut linen measurements elastic into casing, stitching to secure at the ends. for seam allowances. Ribbon Carriers With wrong sides together, press the bias strips in half. Roll hem the Serge approximately 12” of roll hem chain (without fabric) for the folded edge twice, following the directions for the double stitched ribbon loops. Using a large eye, hand-sewing needle, sew the hem edge. ribbon loops into the right and left side seams at the waistline. Thread the 2” satin ribbon through the loops, tying into a bow at Convert serger to a basic 4-thread, balanced overlock stitch. Pin the center front. the cut edges of the bias strips to the wrong side of the neckline and armholes. Serge-seam in place.

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BY DEBBI LASHBROOK

e your own fashion designer! Making garments is re- B warding because you are not limited to the colors and styles available in ready-to-wear and you can have something that is uniquely yours. BERNINA® sewing machines offer several features and specialty feet that make creating fun!

PRETTY PONCHO - Butterick 4356, View C Ponchos are fast and easy projects - great for beginners! Using a serger speeds up the construction process and you can ﬁ nish your poncho in no time at all. Use a 4-thread overlock stitch to construct the seams in place of double-stitched seams suggested in the pattern.

Hem the Poncho Edges Choose Zig- zag Hemmer Foot #63 or #66 based on the fabric weight chosen. Using the width of the channel under the foot as a guide, press under two folds of fabric at the corner of the poncho. Set the machine for a Straight Stitch with the default length (about 2.5mm). Place the double fold under the presser foot, wrong side of the fabric facing up. Set the needle position so that the stitches Most of the projects shown here were will catch the edge of the fold. Stitch about 1” then sink the needle in the fabric made from commercial patterns. and use the Free Hand System to slightly raise the presser foot. Coax the seam They were made according to pattern edge into the spiral of the presser foot. An awl or small screwdriver in the fold of directions, but parts of the steps were the fabric will help feed it into the spiral. simplifi ed with specialty presser feet, professional techniques were used to Lower the presser foot and continue to guide the edge into the spiral of the presser make the garment-making process foot by rolling it over your index fi nger. Feed a consistent amount of fabric into the easier, and/or embellishments were foot for an even hem. After fi nishing one edge, repeat the process on the other added for a signature look. edge and around the neck. Tip: Use the height compensation tool included with the machine at the beginning of the second side to keep the presser foot level as you stitch over the bulk of the hem at the corner.

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PRETTY PURSE Embellish with Yarn Use the LoopDee Doodle™ and pick a favorite skein of yarn to create looped fringe for embellishing the bottom and sides of the poncho. Follow the directions included with the LoopDee Doodle™ and stitch down the center of the yarn loops using a Triple Straight Stitch and Roller Foot #51, which will slide over the yarn and not get caught in it. Make enough trim for the side and bottom edges of the poncho.

Switch to a Zigzag Stitch, using the default settings, and zigzag the trim on top of the hemmed edge through the center of the trim. Press the loops away from the poncho.

Cut a piece of fabric 13” x 10”. Back with Embroidery stabilizer and hoop the stabilized fabric. Stitch Add your favorite embroidery motif to the corner the design created for the poncho. Tip: When of the poncho, or follow the directions to create an testing the design for the poncho, cut the test embroidered accent. swatch 13” x 10”. Use the practice piece to make a purse that coordinates with your Create The Design poncho. Note: The design shown in the photo is no longer available. The information below may be used as a substitute. Cut a purse back and Choose your favorite design and consider embroidering as cut two a monochromatic design. Often a monochromatic design pieces of has an entirely different look to it and can add a certain air Polar Fleece of sophistication. To create something similar to the design this same shown, consider the following. size (13” x • Using the BERNINA® Embroidery Software, open the 10”). Use following lace your favorite motif: free-motion foot to quilt • Select, Scale, Copy, and Paste ad- the front ditional motifs as desired. and back of • Rotate and Mirror Image as desired the purse to to create a pleasing look. the ﬂ eece pieces. Note: The BERNINA® Stitch Regulator makes it easy to free-motion stitch • Assign a different color to the design even if you have never tried it before – regular creation to coordinate with garment and consistent stitches from the beginning! fabrics.

• When satisﬁ ed, Save the motif and After quilting, true the pieces to measure 11” send it to your embroidery system x 8”. Attach each end of a one-yard piece of using your favorite method. cording to the purse at the side edges near the top. Place the front and back right sides Embroider the Design & Add Glitz together and serge along each side and the Fold the poncho in half diagonally and lightly press a crease along the diagonal bottom of the purse. center. Measure 9” from the corner and mark a line perpendicular to the pressed- in crease. The intersection is the center of the design. Cut a 15” x 3½” piece of fringed selvage to use as trim for the purse. Serge the short edges Spray HRFive on two layers of Polymesh Stabilizer and place the poncho fabric on of the trim together to form a circle. Place the top of the stabilizer. Use the diagonal and perpendicular lines to align the poncho right side of the selvage piece to the wrong side in the artista 255 x 145 Oval Hoop. Embroider the design. Remove the hoop of the purse; serge the edges. from the machine and the poncho; trim the stabilizer close to the embroidery design. Turn the purse right side out; add glitzing stones Use the EZ Glitzer to embellish the design with stones. Follow the package using the EZ Glitzer. instructions.

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ASYMMETRICAL SKIRT - Simplicity 4966, View B COWL NECK TOP - Butterick 4606, View D This stylish Topstitching the seams gives add- pullover ed detail to the skirt. Follow the top should pattern directions for stitching the be made seams in the skirt. Use Clear Foot of two-way #34/34C to topstitch along each stretch side of the seams of the skirt. knits only. Move the needle position to far Use a 75 left and align the center marking ballpoint of the foot with the stitched seam. needle, Select a Triple Straight Stitch with which a stitch length of 3.5mm. Sew pushes the the side seams and the facing as yarns in instructed in the pattern. the fabric out of the way instead of piercing through them, protect- ing against runs.

Follow the instructions in the pattern to stitch the darts. Tip: After stitching the darts, place a strip of brown kraft paper (grocery bag) between the bulk of the dart and the outside of the garment. This prevents the dart from making an impression on the outside of the garment.

Zipper Insertion Use a serger for fast seaming. Sergers are Use Invisible Zipper Foot #35 to sew wonderful for knits as they build stretch into the the zipper into the skirt. Tip: To get a seams. Tip: To help maintain the shape of the perfect match of the topstitched seams: shoulder seam, serge a piece of clear elastic Sew the ﬁ rst side of the zipper. Zip up into the seam (cut the same length as the seam). the zipper and mark a placement line on the zipper tape of the other side. Ready-to-wear Finish Unzip the zipper and match the mark to Use a Stretch Double needle, Size 4.0/75 to the topstitched seam on the other side stitch the hems in the bottom of the top and the of the skirt. Sew the other side. sleeves. Press the hem allowance toward the wrong side and stitch from the right side. Trim excess fabric that extends beyond the stitching line.

Skirt Hem Use Edgestitch Zigzag Hemmer Foot #63 can be Foot #10/10C to used to complete a narrow rolled hem edgestitch along the for the skirt. Select a Straight Stitch at armscye seams. Press the preprogrammed length and center the seam toward the needle position. Follow the directions bodice and select a given for hemming the poncho to ﬁ nish Straight Stitch with the hem with ease. Tip: To sew over a length of 2.5 and the seams, reduce the bulk by trimming needle position three triangles from the seam allowances as dots left of center. The pictured. Use the Height Compensation guide bar of the foot follows the seam line of Tool to start the hem over the bulk of the the sleeve to give a straight edgestitch. previously stitched point of the hem. Note: If you have a serger capable of Cover Stitching, you may choose to use this feature to complete the hems on this top.

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TAILORED JACKET - Simplicity 4885, View E Use the Binder Tip: Underline your unlined Attachment jacket with a fusible tricot #84 and the interfacing. This helps stabilize Binder Foot loosely woven or slightly stretchy #94 to ﬁ nish fabrics. the bottom edge of the Professionally Edges jacket. Switch Note: Before binding the seam to Blindstitch allowances, you should be sure Foot #5 and that the jacket ﬁ ts you correctly. hem the jacket and sleeves.

Instead of hand basting the facing/upper collar seam to the jacket/ under collar seam, zigzag the seams together using Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C.

Closure Use Fully Automatic Buttonhole Foot #3A and Perle Cotton #8 to stitch a corded buttonhole in the right side of the jacket. Use Button Sew-On Foot #18 and sew the button on the opposite side of the jacket.

Use Binder Attachment #84 (26-30mm) Professionally Finished Sleeves and Binder Foot #94 for a fast, easy, and To fi ll out professional fi nish for an unlined jacket. Press the top of and starch the binding fabric. Use a rotary the sleeve 1 cutter and cut 1 /8” strips on the true bias (a 45˚ angle to the straight edge of the cap, add fabric). Cut the strips as long as the seams to be bound; there is no need to piece a sleeve the strips. head. Cut a 10” x Attach the binder and foot to the machine. Insert the bias strip into the attachment 3” strip of so the wrong side is facing out. Use a “dental fl oss” motion to get the binding fl eece and strip into the spirals of the attachment. Leave a short tail behind the foot at the press it so beginning of the stitching. Select a Straight Stitch and a needle position to the left that 2” ex- of center so that the stitching just catches the edge of the binding strip. Bind all tends on one side of the crease. Open the strip and edges that will not be enclosed with a facing. Do not bind the lower edges of the place the pressed-in crease just inside the seam line jacket until the seams are sewn. of the sleeve with the longer side extending into the sleeve. Stitch in place just inside the seam line. Add shaping to the under collar Stitch parallel rows along the roll line of the Place the collar using Clear Foot #34/34C. Align shoulder each row with the inside edge of the foot. pad on the This stitching gives added stability to the wrong side stand of the collar. of the jacket and pin it in place. Try the jacket on and adjust the shoulder pads if necessary. Select a Zigzag Stitch and drop the feed dog. Tack the shoulder pad in place at the shoulder seam and at the armscye at each corner of the shoulder pad. Bring the front and back facing Finishing Details over the shoulder pad and stitch in place along the Trim the bulk from the seam allow- armscye with a Zigzag Stitch with the feed dog ances of the hem as shown in the raised. picture.

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