BARRA - BARRAIGH the HEBRIDES in MINIATURE T H G I R Y P O C
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ISLE OF BARRA - BARRAIGH THE HEBRIDES IN MINIATURE t h g i r y p o C n w o r C Our Lady of the Sea with Castlebay and the Bishop’s Isles from Heaval BARRA (G Barraigh, possibly unique in retaining its castle It was Up to 400 boats fished out of of facilities and services, including a Lady of the Sea , and was erected in from ON Barr-oy , Broch Island, used as a base by Vikings and their Castlebay during the short season, community school complete with 1954. The ascent is a stiff, but BARRA but more likely after the 6 th centu - descendants for many years. and over 2,000 people arrived to swimming pool. The Feis rewarding climb from an old quar - Castlebay ry Irish follower of Columba, Trading, fishing, piracy and inter - cope with the gutting, salting and Bharraigh takes place for a week ry about 1 mile northeast of the vil - Kisimul Castle Finbar, St Barr ). This beautiful lit - clan warfare were all activities car - packing into barrels. Fishing is still each summer, during which visi - lage. On a clear day all of the Dualchas tle island encompasses the best of ried out from here. a major part of the Barra economy, tors and Bharrachs participate in Bishop’s Isles are spread out to the Castlebay Bar the Outer Hebrides, and is often and several boats work out of the many musical and cultural south and mainland Scotland Heaval viewpoint referred to as the Hebrides in The harbour was very busy during Castlebay. The larger vessels are events which are held. stretches along the eastern hori - Tangaval Miniature . There is a wealth of the Herring Boom of the late 19 th based at Northbay , where the zon. Dun Mhic Leoid archaeology, history and wildlife, as and early 20 th centuries. In 1869 Barratlantic fish processing factory Heaval (ON Hvit Fjall , White Halaman Bay well as a thriving Gaelic culture. James Methuen, a leading fish is situated. Most landings are Hill, but the first part could also be Dualchas , Barra Heritage and Borve merchant from the east coast, exported fresh in large chiller ON Haff , Ocean, 383m), is the Cultural Centre , is next to the Craigston Museum Castlebay (G Bagh a’Chaisteil ) started using the harbour as a trucks direct to the markets. highest hill on Barra and domi - school. It has interesting displays, Dun Bharpa The harbour at Castlebay, the landing and processing station for nates Castlebay. The statue of the old photographs and genealogical Allasdale main settlement, is one of the best Herring. Today Castlebay is a lively little vil - Virgin and Child, sculpted from information as well as a shop and Aird Greian in the Outer Hebrides, and is lage, with a comprehensive range Carrara marble, is known as Our cafe. Northbay Ard Mhor Castlebay with “MV Clansman” at the pier The Street, Castlebay Traigh Mhor Traigh Eais Eoligarry Scurrival Earsary Brevig War Memorial Sound of Vatersay Vatersay Uineasan Bagh Siar 168 169 ISLE OF BARRA - BARRAIGH CASTLEBAY - K ISIMUL CASTLE In 1937 Robert Lister MacNeil, the 45 th Chief of the Clan, bought much of Barra, including the cas - tle. He carried out a major restora - tion programme largely using stones from the many jetties around the bay, themselves built using bits of the castle. Archaeological investigations in the courtyard found animal bones and shells in large quantities. Castlebay from the ramparts Pottery sherds dating from Neolithic to late Medieval times indicate that the island has been inhabited for a long time. Kisimul Castle from the pier on a calm midsummer evening Castle is now in the charge of Kisimul Castle (ON Kastali tered on Barra. By the 890s, or haps similar to the Castle of Historic Scotland, who leased it Holmr , Castle Holm) probably before, he had settled in Iceland Oldwick in Caithness. In the 15 th for 1,000 years. The rental is £1 dates back to Norse times, but the with other people from Barra and century the tower and curtain wall and a bottle of whisky per year. It existing structure is no earlier than the Hebrides, including his neigh - were rebuilt and internal buildings can be visited daily by a small ferry 15 th century. The first mention of bour, Aud the Deepminded. were also repaired or renewed. from April till September. Barra in the sagas is when Onund Later the curtain wall was height - Kisimul Castle, Interior of the Hall Tree-foot is said to have arrived Being on a small island, but with a ened. The Castle was abandoned with five ships in around 871AD very convenient fresh water spring, in the late 18 th century, having been and driven away the local chief, the site is ideal for defence, and was severly damaged by fire in 1795. CASTLEBAY Kiarval. He then used Barra, no probably fortified long before the doubt Castlebay, as his winter base. Vikings arrived. It may very well Boats transporting salt for fish cur - HOTEL have been the site of a large Iron ing used its stones as ballast and Castlebay, Isle of Barra HS9 5XD A few years later, Onund lost a leg Age broch. It is claimed that some are said to have been dis - Tel: 01871 810223 Fax: 01871 810455 at the sea battle of Hafsfjordr in Kisimul was the stronghold of the charged in Glasgow, where they [email protected] c.874 whilst fighting on the losing MacNeils since about 1040. were reused for street paving. side against King Harald Fairhair. Herring boats also used it in a sim - castlebayhotel.com In summer he and his men went The original Norse structure here ilar fashion whilst heading for the on Viking cruises and overwin - was probably a 3 storey tower, per - fishing grounds. Kisimul Castle Courtyard Castlebay, Kisimul Castle and Heaval from the ferry MacNeil coat of Arms MV “Lord of the Isles” passing Kisimul Castle A warm welcome awaits guests at the Castlebay Hotel, which overlooks the picturesque harbour, Kisimul Castle and the beautiful island of Vatersay. *** HOTEL 170 171 ISLE OF BARRA - BARRAIGH THE WEST SIDE - T ANGUSDALE TO GREIAN HEAD (NF647016), at the head of a Several kerbstones are still small geo, Port na Cille . In the standing, and the entrance pas - adjacent graveyard there are sage can be seen, facing down scant ruins of a little chapel, Cille the valley. There is another Bhrianain (dedicated to St chambered cairn (NF677012) Brendan). A short standing further up towards the saddle of stone is prominent near the gate the valley below Grianan. onto the machair, which in sum - mer is a sea of wild flowers. Wheelhouse There is an aisled Many waders breed here and wheelhouse dating from the Oystercatchers are particularly early centuries AD inland near Tangusdale and Dun Mhic Leoid with Ben Tangaval in the background common. Allasdale (NF677022) which From Greian Head looking south over Traigh Eais and Allasdale to Ben Tangaval has outbuildings and an associ - Dun Mhic Leoid (wrongly Doirlinn Head There is a fine in the 1950s and has now been Greian Head The west coast of West Beaches The beaches of ated souterrain. This house is called Sinclair Castle in the 19 th walk south to Doirlinn Head, shown to have been reused over Barra is a series of curvaceous Allasdale, Traigh Hamara , unusual in that most such century, NL648996) is on a and onwards to the top of Ben a long period. sandy beaches, backed by dunes Traigh Tuath and Halaman Bay dwellings in the Western Isles small island on Loch Tangaval (333m, NL638991) and machair, interspersed by all have their own character. have been found in machair Tangusdale. This tower was from Halaman Bay. Dun Ban Barra Golf Course is nearby on rugged headlands. From Greian Whether on a calm summer’s areas. This house sits at the top originally three stories high and (G White Fort, NF631003) is a Aird Greian . This unusual 9 Head (NF658047), above the evening, or during an equinoc - of a very attractive valley, well measures about 3m by 2.5m ruined broch, in a dramatic hole course has fences around Golf Course, with its aban - tial storm, the scene is constant - above the machair. inside, with walls about 1.5m clifftop location. There is an fine the greens to keep the sheep out! doned WWII radio post, there ly changing, dynamic, yet peace - thick. St Columba’s Well lies view from the top of the hill. There are also great views to is a particularly fine view south - ful. The beach at Allasdale, or Broch Dun Cuier (NF664034), near the loch, marked by some admire when you are looking for wards. A rough track leads to Seal Bay, is an especially popular a broch which overlooks white stones. Otters frequent Borve takes its name from the your lost golf balls. the top of the hill. place for selkies to haul out, and Allasdale beach, was excavated the lochs and burns here. ruined broch, Dun na Cille thus also for viewing them. Walks There are several pleas - ISLE OF BARRA ant walks in the area, which include a coastal route along the BEACH HOTEL cliffs from Cleit to Suideachan along an old path which affords especially good views over the west of the island, and towards South Uist. Beinn Mhartainn (244m, NF664021), overlooks the attractive township of Borve, Rough seas breaking at Halaman Bay and offers outstanding views. Dun Bharpa chambered cairn Peace and tranquillity Allasdale from Beinn Mhartainn Above Craigston, Dubhairidh, Dun na Cille, Borve an old thatched cottage (G The Spectacular seashore location Dark Shieling) has been reno - Excellent cuisine - fresh local seafood vated (NF673014) and is open Comfortable, modern, family-run hotel to visitors in the summer.