ISLE OF - BARRAIGH THE IN MINIATURE t h g i r y p o C

n w o r C

Our Lady of the Sea with and the Bishop’s Isles from BARRA (G Barraigh, possibly unique in retaining its castle It was Up to 400 boats fished out of of facilities and services, including a Lady of the Sea , and was erected in from ON Barr-oy , Broch Island, used as a base by Vikings and their Castlebay during the short season, community school complete with 1954. The ascent is a stiff, but BARRA but more likely after the 6 th centu - descendants for many years. and over 2,000 people arrived to swimming pool. The Feis rewarding climb from an old quar - Castlebay ry Irish follower of Columba, Trading, fishing, piracy and inter - cope with the gutting, salting and Bharraigh takes place for a week ry about 1 mile northeast of the vil - Finbar, St Barr ). This beautiful lit - clan warfare were all activities car - packing into barrels. Fishing is still each summer, during which visi - lage. On a clear day all of the Dualchas tle island encompasses the best of ried out from here. a major part of the Barra economy, tors and Bharrachs participate in Bishop’s Isles are spread out to the Castlebay Bar the , and is often and several boats work out of the many musical and cultural south and mainland Heaval viewpoint referred to as the Hebrides in The harbour was very busy during Castlebay. The larger vessels are events which are held. stretches along the eastern hori - Tangaval Miniature . There is a wealth of the Herring Boom of the late 19 th based at , where the zon. Dun Mhic Leoid archaeology, history and wildlife, as and early 20 th centuries. In 1869 Barratlantic fish processing factory Heaval (ON Hvit Fjall , White Halaman Bay well as a thriving Gaelic culture. James Methuen, a leading fish is situated. Most landings are Hill, but the first part could also be Dualchas , Barra Heritage and Borve merchant from the east coast, exported fresh in large chiller ON Haff , Ocean, 383m), is the Cultural Centre , is next to the Craigston Museum Castlebay (G Bagh a’Chaisteil ) started using the harbour as a trucks direct to the markets. highest hill on Barra and domi - school. It has interesting displays, Dun Bharpa The harbour at Castlebay, the landing and processing station for nates Castlebay. The statue of the old photographs and genealogical main settlement, is one of the best Herring. Today Castlebay is a lively little vil - Virgin and Child, sculpted from information as well as a shop and Aird Greian in the Outer Hebrides, and is lage, with a comprehensive range Carrara marble, is known as Our cafe. Northbay Ard Mhor Castlebay with “MV Clansman” at the pier The Street, Castlebay Traigh Mhor Traigh Eais Eoligarry Scurrival Earsary Brevig War Memorial Sound of Vatersay Uineasan Bagh Siar

168 169 ISLE OF BARRA - BARRAIGH CASTLEBAY - K ISIMUL CASTLE

In 1937 Robert Lister MacNeil, the 45 th Chief of the Clan, bought much of Barra, including the cas - tle. He carried out a major restora - tion programme largely using stones from the many jetties around the bay, themselves built using bits of the castle.

Archaeological investigations in the courtyard found animal bones and shells in large quantities. Castlebay from the ramparts Pottery sherds dating from Neolithic to late Medieval times indicate that the island has been inhabited for a long time.

Kisimul Castle from the pier on a calm midsummer evening Castle is now in the charge of Kisimul Castle (ON Kastali tered on Barra. By the 890s, or haps similar to the Castle of Historic Scotland, who leased it Holmr , Castle Holm) probably before, he had settled in Iceland Oldwick in Caithness. In the 15 th for 1,000 years. The rental is £1 dates back to Norse times, but the with other people from Barra and century the tower and curtain wall and a bottle of whisky per year. It existing structure is no earlier than the Hebrides, including his neigh - were rebuilt and internal buildings can be visited daily by a small ferry 15 th century. The first mention of bour, Aud the Deepminded. were also repaired or renewed. from April till September. Barra in the sagas is when Onund Later the curtain wall was height - Kisimul Castle, Interior of the Hall Tree-foot is said to have arrived Being on a small island, but with a ened. The Castle was abandoned with five ships in around 871AD very convenient fresh water spring, in the late 18 th century, having been and driven away the local chief, the site is ideal for defence, and was severly damaged by fire in 1795. CASTLEBAY Kiarval. He then used Barra, no probably fortified long before the doubt Castlebay, as his winter base. Vikings arrived. It may very well Boats transporting salt for fish cur - HOTEL have been the site of a large Iron ing used its stones as ballast and Castlebay, Isle of Barra HS9 5XD A few years later, Onund lost a leg Age broch. It is claimed that some are said to have been dis - Tel: 01871 810223 Fax: 01871 810455 at the sea battle of Hafsfjordr in Kisimul was the stronghold of the charged in , where they [email protected] c.874 whilst fighting on the losing MacNeils since about 1040. were reused for street paving. side against King Harald Fairhair. Herring boats also used it in a sim - castlebayhotel.com In summer he and his men went The original Norse structure here ilar fashion whilst heading for the on Viking cruises and overwin - was probably a 3 storey tower, per - fishing grounds. Kisimul Castle Courtyard

Castlebay, Kisimul Castle and Heaval from the ferry MacNeil coat of Arms MV “Lord of the Isles” passing Kisimul Castle

A warm welcome awaits guests at the Castlebay Hotel, which overlooks the picturesque harbour, Kisimul Castle and the beautiful island of Vatersay. *** HOTEL

170 171 ISLE OF BARRA - BARRAIGH THE WEST SIDE - T ANGUSDALE TO GREIAN HEAD

(NF647016), at the head of a Several kerbstones are still small geo, Port na Cille . In the standing, and the entrance pas - adjacent graveyard there are sage can be seen, facing down scant ruins of a little chapel, Cille the valley. There is another Bhrianain (dedicated to St chambered cairn (NF677012) Brendan). A short standing further up towards the saddle of stone is prominent near the gate the valley below Grianan. onto the , which in sum - mer is a sea of wild flowers. Wheelhouse There is an aisled Many waders breed here and wheelhouse dating from the Oystercatchers are particularly early centuries AD inland near Tangusdale and Dun Mhic Leoid with Ben Tangaval in the background common. Allasdale (NF677022) which From Greian Head looking south over Traigh Eais and Allasdale to Ben Tangaval has outbuildings and an associ - Dun Mhic Leoid (wrongly Doirlinn Head There is a fine in the 1950s and has now been Greian Head The west coast of West Beaches The beaches of ated souterrain. This house is called Sinclair Castle in the 19 th walk south to Doirlinn Head, shown to have been reused over Barra is a series of curvaceous Allasdale, Traigh Hamara , unusual in that most such century, NL648996) is on a and onwards to the top of Ben a long period. sandy beaches, backed by dunes Traigh Tuath and Halaman Bay dwellings in the Western Isles small island on Loch Tangaval (333m, NL638991) and machair, interspersed by all have their own character. have been found in machair Tangusdale. This tower was from Halaman Bay. Dun Ban Barra Golf Course is nearby on rugged headlands. From Greian Whether on a calm summer’s areas. This house sits at the top originally three stories high and (G White Fort, NF631003) is a Aird Greian . This unusual 9 Head (NF658047), above the evening, or during an equinoc - of a very attractive valley, well measures about 3m by 2.5m ruined broch, in a dramatic hole course has fences around Golf Course, with its aban - tial storm, the scene is constant - above the machair. inside, with walls about 1.5m clifftop location. There is an fine the greens to keep the sheep out! doned WWII radio post, there ly changing, dynamic, yet peace - thick. St Columba’s Well lies view from the top of the hill. There are also great views to is a particularly fine view south - ful. The beach at Allasdale, or Broch Dun Cuier (NF664034), near the loch, marked by some admire when you are looking for wards. A rough track leads to Seal Bay, is an especially popular a broch which overlooks white stones. Otters frequent Borve takes its name from the your lost golf balls. the top of the hill. place for selkies to haul out, and Allasdale beach, was excavated the lochs and burns here. ruined broch, Dun na Cille thus also for viewing them.

Walks There are several pleas - ISLE OF BARRA ant walks in the area, which include a coastal route along the BEACH HOTEL cliffs from Cleit to Suideachan along an old path which affords especially good views over the west of the island, and towards South . Beinn Mhartainn (244m, NF664021), overlooks the attractive township of Borve, Rough seas breaking at Halaman Bay and offers outstanding views. Dun Bharpa chambered cairn Peace and tranquillity Allasdale from Beinn Mhartainn Above Craigston, Dubhairidh, Dun na Cille, Borve an old thatched cottage (G The Spectacular seashore location Dark Shieling) has been reno - Excellent cuisine - fresh local seafood vated (NF673014) and is open Comfortable, modern, family-run hotel to visitors in the summer. Self-catering cottage - sleeps six Isle of Barra Beach Hotel Chambered Cairn Further up Isle of Barra the hill to the north, the large Western Isles HS9 5XW and apparently undisturbed Tel 01871 810383 Fax 01871 810385 mound of Dun Bharpa [email protected] Neolithic chambered cairn (NF672019) is prominent. isleofbarra.co.uk

172 173 ISLE OF BARRA - BARRAIGH NORTH END - A IRPORT , E OLIGARRY & S CURRIVAL

farm. It was eventually divided up into crofts again, many of which are still worked. The beaches here are vast areas of white sand. On a fine day the sea is a colour of turquoise giv - ing a Caribbean feel to the place. This is one of the best places to seek Corncrakes on Barra.

Dun Scurrival (NF695081) is Traigh Mhor or Cocklestrand is also dramatically situated on a Traigh Eais and the west coast of Barra from Dun Scurrival rugged 50m hillock with stun - Barra Airport The north of the dedicated to St Barr or Finbar, door jambs and windows simi - ning views over the west coast, island is quite different in character of Cork, whose feast day is 27 th lar to early Irish churches, Traigh Scurrival and the Sound to the south, with expansive sandy September. The church may strengthening its founder’s of Barra. Parts of the walls and beaches, backed by sand dunes and also have connections to St probable Irish provenance. In of the intramural galleries are machair. Barra Airport is unique Brendan. None of the three early summer the precincts are visible. This Iron Age broch is in that it uses the large flat expanse buildings visible appear earlier enlivened by swathes of one of several similar structures of Traigh Mhor , or the than 12 th century, but it is likely Primroses. on Barra and the Bishop’s Isles. Cocklestrand , as its runways. that the original foundation was Sites of such buildings are often Recently it has been voted as hav - much earlier, perhaps 7 th century. The graveyard is still in use and indicated by the place name ing the 10 th most spectacular has an interesting range of Borve from ON Borg , castle. approach in the world. An unusual grave slab is now in memorials, from very ancient to the National Museum in modern. The author Compton Celtic/Norse grave slab at Cille Bharra Swathes of Primroses in early summer Operations are dependent on the . The stone has a MacKenzie, of tide, but the Canadian built Twin Celtic cross on one side and a fame, who lived on Barra during Otter aircraft which are used are runic inscription on the other to 1935-1945, is buried here. eminently suitable for the job. Thorgerth, Steiner’s daughter . A There are daily flights to Glasgow replica of this 10 th or 11 th centu - Eoligarry To the east of the and at variable times. ry stone is in the North Chapel church, Traigh Cille Bharra is The beach is also the source of the along with three 16 th century another vast expanse of sand at wonderful cockles which may be carved tombstones, probably low tide, stretching to the tidal found on local menus. commemorating the MacNeils. island of . It is backed by the fertile machair plain of Cille Bharra (NF704074) over - The door on the north wall of Eoligarry, which was cleared in looks Eoligarry and is said to be the church has inward-sloping the 1840s to make one large The beach at Eoligarry jetty

Twin Otter at Barra Airport Thrift on the shore at Eoligarry Cille Bharra has ancient chapels, gravestones from many ages and wild flowers

174 175 ISLE OF BARRA - BARRAIGH EAST SIDE - A RD MHOR TO CASTLEBAY

terminal there is a fine sculpture of Later, blackhouses were built here, two Otters chasing a Salmon. perhaps beginning about 1750. This is a good place to look for Pottery, a clay pipe, broken tools these elusive creatures, which are and a copper thimble were among usually seen in the gloaming. the artefacts discovered. In 1851 potato blight caused famine on Northbay has for long been Barra’s Barra. 450 people were shipped second harbour. The Old out to Canada that year, including Harbour is very sheltered and still those from Balnabodach. In turn, used by small fishing boats. Aird they were soon replaced by fami - Mhidhinis is the main base of the lies who were evicted from Borve. fishing industry on the island. It Scots Pines and Gorse at Northbay has a deep water pier and the Earsary The road winds through Barratlantic fish factory. a series of townships with wonder - Whitefish, prawns and Scallops ful names, including Earsary landed here are trucked daily to the (Earsairidh) , Skallary (Sgalllairidh) mainland. Fresh fish can be pur - and Brevig (Breibhig) . Apart from the chased from the factory. modern houses there are many ruined blackhouses, most of which Balnabodach is today a string of date from the 19 th century clearances. houses along the roadside above Loch Ob just south of Northbay. There are fine views of the east coast Near the shore the remains of ear - of Barra, and Skye from lier houses dot the landscape. the hill to the south of Brevig. on the Cottage at , Northbay Loch Ob itself is very sheltered northeast flank of Heaval. The east and accessible from the sea by a side of the island is quite different Otter and Salmon sculpture at the ferry terminal, Ard Mhor narrow channel nearly 400m long. from the west, with its rocky inlets East Coast The east coast of as a modern collage of the saint and lack of sandy bays. It is worth - Barra is rugged with rocky bays, made with sea shells on the nearby During excavations, a Bronze Age while to walk or cycle rather than and low cliffs. The sheltered inlet St Barr’s Church. In spring Gorse arrowhead and large quantities of drive and not to be in a hurry. at Northbay has some of Barra’s and Broom enliven the scene with Iron Age pottery were found here. few trees, excellent places to find their yellow flowers. Flint scrapers and knives as well as migrant birds in spring and pumice tools were also present. Mosaic on Northbay Church autumn. Several passerine species Ard Mhor There is a roro car The dun on Loch nic Ruadhe just breed here. There is a statue of St ferry which runs between Ard up the burn may have been con - Barr on an islet on the loch as well Mhor and . Outside the temporary with this occupation. Small boats at high tide, Earsary

Northbay has a very sheltered inner basin Earsary with Muldonaich in the background

176 177 ISLE OF BARRA - BARRAIGH SOUTH SIDE - ALLT CHRISAL AND THE SOUND OF VATERSAY

shaped chambered cairn could have been the communal burial tomb for the settlement. This type of cairn is unusual in the Outer Hebrides, but common elsewhere.

Higher up there is a small circular stone hut, which is probably from the Beaker period , as nearby a small cist had a nearly intact beaker in it. It may well have been used to drink ale made from barley. Barra War Memorial was dedicated in 1993

The most dramatic building is an Iron Age wheelhouse , which lies up the slope to the west of the Sound of Vatersay and the causeway from below the War Memorial stream. The walls, piers and cen - Barra War Memorial was dedi - ated on the road to Vatersay over - was undertaken. A surprising tral fireplace can all be made out. It cated in 1993, to commemorate looking Castlebay and the Sound range of sites were discovered rang - is unusual as, apart from the one at those from the island who gave of Vatersay. ing from the Neolithic to the 18 th Allasdale, most such houses so far their lives in WWI (71) and century. Most are in the small val - found in the Western Isles are WWII (44). Most were in the Allt Chrisal During the building ley of Allt Chrisal (NL643977), a built into sand dunes, and not free Merchant or Royal Navy, although of the new road an archaeological burn which runs off Ben Tangaval standing as here. some were in the Army. It is situ - survey of the route and its environs into the Sound of Vatersay near Castlebay from the War Memorial the northern end of the causeway. The most recent occupation was in the 18 th century, when a black - From about 3400 to 1800BC house with outbuildings, including there was a settlement on two lev - a byre and kiln, were built near the elled areas just above the road. Neolithic house. There are also Hearths, pottery, flint tools and a remains of lazybeds nearby. This saddle quern were found, as were site was only occupied for perhaps several stone burial cists. The pot - 40 years. It is said that a plague of tery was Grooved Ware type. A rats from a nearby wrecked ship rectangular oven in the floor may drove the people out. Indeed, there have been a kiln to fire the pottery. was evidence of rats’ nests in the foundations of the house. Bronze age curved wall and hearth About 400m east, a small heel Lewisian Gneiss rocks exposed in road cutting at the War Memorial Neolithic fireplace Neolithic heel shaped cairn Iron Age wheelhouse, uphill from the Neolithic site Bronze Age house

178 179 ISLE OF BARRA - BARRAIGH SOUTH SIDE - V ATERSAY t h g i r y p o C

n w o r C

Sunset from Bagh Siar Vatersay Bay faces east VATERSAY (ON Vatrs-oy , Wet Vatersay Bay The road leads east - beach. There were 102 survivors, mands fine views over Bagh Siar, or Watery Island?) was joined to wards to sheltered Vatersay Bay including the captain, because Vatersay Bay, and the north part of Barra by a causeway in 1990. Prior with its lovely sands. The commu - when the ship broke up the fore - the island. to this a small ferry ran across the nity hall is at the north end of the deck and poopdeck acted like lifer - Sound of Vatersay. Cattle were beach, which is one of the finest of afts. There is a poignant memori - Chapel On the east side, on the swum across behind small boats. many lovely such stretches of sand al to the disaster above the beach. small island of Uineasain The island was bought in 1910 by in the Outer Hebrides. (NL665957), the ruined chapel of the Congested District Board after On the south side of Vatersay, Cille Bhrainain is on a hummock a series of land raids in 1906 by Annie Jane Bagh Siar (G West Bagh a’Deas ( G South Bay) faces above a lovely sandy beach facing crofters desperate for land. The Bay) was the site of the wreck of south over . There is a Castlebay. There is a another fine island was then divided into crofts. the brig, Annie Jane of Liverpool particularly fine view from beach at Caragrich on the way to on 29 th September 1853. She was Heillanish (NL633935), the low this chapel site. A side road leads Vatersay from Dun Vatersay bound for Quebec with 450 pas - headland to the west of the beach. to Uidh for part of the way to this sengers and 45 crew when she idyllic corner of Vatersay. encountered a severe storm in the Archaeology On the north side of Atlantic. The crew could not Vatersay, Dun a’ Chaolais is a large Catalina crash site On 18 th May make sufficient repairs to make the ruined broch which commanded 1944, an RAF Catalina on a train - ship manageable and she ground - the Sound of Vatersay . The ing flight from crashed into ed on rocks in Bagh Siar . entrance and intramural spaces can Heishival Beag above the east side still be made out. of Vatersay Bay. 3 of the crew were In one of the worst maritime dis - killed but the other 6 survived. asters of the 19 th century 393 peo - Dun Vatersay (NL626947) is There is a memorial at the road - ple were lost. Of these, 248 were another ruinous broch on a knoll side along with some remaining Collapsed broch entrance buried in pits at the top of the to the west of the village. It com - pieces of the aircraft. Bagh a’Deas from the west end

Dun a’Chaolais Broch, overlooking the Sound of Vatersay Catalina memorial Bagh Siar on a misty day Annie Jane memorial, Bagh Siar

180 181 BARRA - THE BISHOP ’S ISLES SANDRAY AND PABBAY t h

g THE BISHOP’S ISLES The i r y

p string of islands to the south of o C

n Barra was known as the Bishop’s w o

r Isles because during Norse times C they were part of the Bishopric Estate. Each has its own character, although all have been uninhabit - ed since the early 20 th century.

SANDRAY (ON Sandr-oy , Sandy Island) is named for its huge sand dunes on the east coast below Carnach. There is a gal - leried dun unusually situated at about 100m (NL637913) on the south east ridge of Cairn Galtar Bagh Ban, Pabbay (207m), and a chapel, Cille Pabbay Pictish symbol ston e, has remains of a chapel lie about vated. Above Bagh Ban and facing Bhrighde (NL652919) next to the flower and V-rod, or broken arrow, halfway towards the shore, mostly across the Sound of Pabbay, there old settlement site, which is now with crescent symbols, and has buried in the sand dunes. is a small, but well preserved, gal - buried by sand. been re-erected nearby. The stone leried dun, Dunan Ruadh (G Red has a later primitive cross at the Galleried Dun Up the slope, an Fort NL613877). There is a stun - PABBAY (ON Papa-oy, Monk’s top. Another simple cross slab is Iron Age house similar to those at ning 270 degree panoramic view or Culdee’s Island) has a beautiful face down in the grass. The Bosta on Great Bernera lies exca - from this vantage point. white sandy beach on the east side, at Bagh Ban . (G White Beach). The settlement was inland from this, and extensive ruins remain. A steep mound nearby has many grave markers, but may originally have been a domestic midden.

Pabbay Stone from an old print Small cross slab on mound

Sandy beach and dunes on the east side of Sandray Sound of Pabbay with Dun Ruadh on the right

Sandray and the Sound of Sandray from Vatersay Dun Ruadh is a well preserved Iron Age dun or small broch

Dun Ruadh gallery and stairway

Iron Age house

182 183 BARRA - THE BISHOP ’S ISLES AND (B ARRA HEAD )

Mingulay Bay from the south, it is very exposed and never had a pier is 190m high and often covered in mist MINGULAY (ON Mikil-ey , strips and a burial ground lie above north, Hecla (ON Hekle , comb, or BERNERAY (ON Bjornr-oy, Another dun, Dun Briste (G protect it from the tide and swell Muckle or Big Island) is the largest Mingulay Bay. A chapel, dedicated Hekla , cowl, 219m) in the south Bjorn’s Island), or Barra Head , is Broken Fort, NL548806), on the otherwise. There is an old grave - of the Bishop’s Isles. The high to St Columba, is now engulfed by and the highest hill, Carnan (G the most southerly of the Western north-west tip of the island, over - yard to the east of Maclean’s Point, cliffs, which reach 215m on the sand. The large and incongruous Heap of Stones, 273m). Isles. Its dramatic 190m cliffs are looks the Sound of Berneray. The with ancient gravemarkers, but west side, with spectacular caves, Chapel House, built in 1898, is Macphee’s Hill is named after a topped by Barra Head landing place is on the northeast nothing remains of the chapel stacks and precipices, are home to now ruinous but the Schoolhouse, boy who was abandoned on the at Sron an Duine (G Fort side below the old settlement. It is which once stood there. A chaly - many breeding seabirds in sum - built in the 1880s, is in good repair. island after a plague had wiped out Headland). The remains of the only exposed to the northeast, beate (iron bearing) well halfway mer. The 150m high natural arch There never was a pier because the inhabitants. He survived for Iron Age dun at the lighthouse Shelter Rock and Maclean’s Point up the hill provided water. at Gunamul and the immense Mingulay Bay is subject to swell over a year on his own before the protect a small area surrounded by geos are especially impressive from most of the time. Landing is best land was resettled. Mingulay was rocks, right on the edge of the cliffs. a boat. Rock climbers also favour done on the rocks to the north or finally abandoned in 1912 after these Lewisian Gneiss cliffs. south of the lovely sandy beach. being populated for several thou - Sadly this dun was partially sand years. There are many pre - destroyed during the building of The main settlement of ruined There are good views from historic sites from the Iron Age the lighthouse, which was first lit in blackhouses, field walls, cultivation Macphee’s Hill (224m) in the and earlier. 1833 and automated in 1980. Barra Head was the final waypoint Builacraig and Bagh na h-Aoineig, Mingulay 150m high natural arch, Gunamul for sailing ships westbound for the USA and Canada, which is one of the reasons for the construction of the lighthouse here. Midsummer sunset down the Sound of Berneray

Barra Head lighthouse Sron an Duine Iron Age fort

184 185