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9-1-2010 Wanderer: A Special Publication of El Mestizo, Fall 2010 Columbia College Chicago
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,,.~uoo or , ,u,14 ,ATAtAS 01'11"11)-~ - WAITERS AND letter f ram the editors PHOTOGRAPHERS CRISTINA AGUIRRE THE FlRSTTIME it crossed my mind to lAUREN 8ROSTOW117 KRJ$TA HINES It I take students to Peru remembered my OE\/IN KATAYAMA days living with the Shining Path, the not so DEREK KUCYNOA democratic Fujin1ori government and the LAURANAllH galloping inflation. But so much has changed SARAH 05TMAN since then. Today Peru presents the fastest EMIPETERS AMBER PORTER growing economy in South America and the SARA ROSEMBlUM terrorist movements have been so weakened GRACIA SAOTLER·TAYLOR that they are almost gone. LAUREN V\1 Ll.E \,\lhen many think about Peru, Machu BENITA ZEPEDA
Picchu is the first thing that comes to DESICN !EDITORS mind. But there is so much more to the LUIS ARRIAGA th.ird largest South American country. It's OLMA CASTANEDA a mesmerizing and chaotic place with a rich culture located in a unique ANGELICA CHAVEZ geographical part of the world. ERIKA DAVI ERIN EDWARDS lt was tinlc to go there and provide students an oppo1tu11ity to explore MELISSA EHRMEYER new laods. JOREll ESPINOZA With the invaluable collaboration of my colleague Teresa Puente, who LUCY fROfMMUNG had already taken students to Mexico and Italy in semesters past, we MflAl RIGHT 'The rwo 4 student w anderer inside SEPTEMBER l010 llltllllltllllllllllllll!I ti !I II tttl tl UII 111111 1111 1111 IllII II II l flllll!!l!lll!llllfllII 1111 II !I fl II UII 1111 1111II II llllllllll lllllll!Tll!llllllllllllllf 6 ALPA RUNA•STYLE FOLK ART Ifit ·s pottery you 're after, nothiltg matches the unique style Pt111via11 orris: ond 1cod1tr Lto11idos Orfllono h(lltd('ve/()pe 10 PERUGLIOING Mirt1Jlo1-cs is a pl(,ce (<> fly 12 HEART OF A NEWSPAPER El Comtrei<> is the oldc;st Pvruvian newspopcr.fom1 14 CLOUDY DRINK, CLOUDY PAST Whili; the histo,·y <)/ lhe drink's crootiou remains a ,ratio11al co1iflict. the PiscoSouru,ill 16 SUSANA BACA 'S AFRO-PERUVIAN FLAVOR We visit<."CI the artist cit lwr lwusc i11 Barranco. J.. .fmu a.11d/ou11d out lrotu l1Ct' ]>(J.$$ion/or musicond ])OClry won her a Gi'Ommy. Emi Pete-rs 18 BOHO BEATS IN BARRANCO ni:o :;tT('t't musit:lans/oJ.!otu their pu:;si 22 RUMBLE IN THE "INCA JUNGLE" J\lpaoo $U'f(1tcrs, bogs, pottery,jeu:clry, crafts llml s,0t,veriirs. A unique joumey through C\1$coS colo1ful m(lrl.,-ctplo~. Amber Porter 24 TAKING CARE OF THE " ABUELITOS" An elder oort prog1'(1m u,kes core of the ~nior cih'1.e11s in oroosofnc<:d i,1 limct Pcm. Crist ina Aguirre 26 BEGGING TO LIVE 11u's is the story of Pt:mm'an "'st1ttt ki(I~", "forced by J)()IX!rty a,td di-sodt.:OlllQge to bcoome provid<:rs/Qr their Jomilie:s much I()() :5c)Qtt. Sara Ostman 28 PERUVIAN LADIES OF THE NIGHT i\ u.'(lfk Qn the strctd$ QjJ,imu , Pent to expWre the bU$iness of pro$litution. Devin Katayama 30 FINDING MY ROOTS A young u.~m,m:~jc,unu:y offi n,Iiirg where she was born um/ N?jk't·ting on the life she wos gi1.:cn. Krista Hines 32 INEXPENSIVE INK t.ookingforo tattoo but don't have thcfimd.-.j(,rfN'sh hlk? l.imaoJJt,-s offordcrbfe prices. Lauren Brostowitz 34 COCA, NOT COCOA Drinkinf} OX'(J tM tltfinitcly help.~ when you art , ,,ooo/ttr abolX!soo level. Gracia Satdter-Taylor ffl()TO$ l:/ KRISTA HIN(S, A.Y.8(R PORT(~ lAURA NAltl. 0.U Pfl(~ lJJJfUH H0$1'0.YITZ st~nt wo;nderer 5 If it's pottery you're after, ALftA RUNA STYLE nothing n1atches the unique ,.~ ....,... • style Peruvian artist and teacher Leonidas Orellana has developed over 13 years ofp ractice. PHOTOS AND STORY BY LAUREN BROSTOWITZ n t he district of Chorillos, in Lima, Peru, labyrinths of Ideverty constn;cted houses line the street. \f't/here calamines, or large metal plates, formed the t0of'S of ma2e·llke Peruvian homes, Leonidas Orellana Cast ro, a Peruvian ceramics artist. sat in his lime- wtiat has been his familys life's tradition, working side by side work for over 100 years. with his son and wife, Pilar Orellana, 45, was born in Guisado Gonzales who help hand Ayacucho, which is an artists' paint the abundant creations village where 36 church es stand that are conceived, molded, fired tall. It's no surprise that his work and painted in his home. He also has a strong religious inspiration. has four children. two chic.kem, He has been e 6 student wanderer and thi:s styte ,efe,,ed to as imaginero, or one who imagines, has betn passed down to him. • All my work com~ from a tradition, but it's also a fusion of all the techniques: Orellana said. ·The Peruvian culture is the richest culture in all of South America." Orellana has thrived off a humble life by exporting his art throughout Peru and countries around the world. fifty percent of his exports 90 to the United State,, 30 to 40 percent to Europe, and only 10 percent are sold locally. An order of 200 Noah's arcs sat waiting in his office to be sent to Switzerland. Aligned in neat rows, the linle blue boats overflowing with animals sat waiting to be shipped overseas. A«ording to Orel!ana's friend, Aldo Diaz Lozano, who is the curator of the museum in which his won:. was displayed, Orellana's work ls very original despite similarities in style among other artists. "He is a good person with a big heart and a powerful fate," Diaz said . .. His drive and compassion is always expressed in his work." And as if his heart wasn't already big enough, Orellana ha< converted his home into a quaint potte,y «:hool, Alpa Runa, which also is livi()Q quarters for four young art•sts who are looking to master his skills. These artists not only learn the trade, but also gain a sense of camaraderie as they live and work for a moderate wage. Eight of his fo,me r students have already opened their own galleries, workshops, and studios. Richard lthaccaya Pariona, a stude-nt at the institute, sat painting details on a fired A student of On,llana. Ridlat student w ande~ 7 AS THE THERE'S SOMETHING TO BE said about being ..one with the elements.· Yet how often do we have the ch.a nee? As I gazed out over t he Pa· ~VES cific Ocean from the shoreline of Lima, Peru, the sun cast its shadow over the curling seas, I found myself an observer in the temple of wave riders who glide ROLL on water piercing the air with their tanned torsos and sleek PERU'S MOST boards. POPULAR To many, surfing is considered SURF SPOTS more of a religion than casual sport where undemanding and IN respect for your surroundings leads to the redemption of rid· Chlca.yo • ing the "perlect wave." Peruvian natives Tru; no • Thes.e are the stories of three find solace in ...,. . such individuals whose devotion Grandt and dedication have become the riding the waves very center of their lives. LIMA • As I entered the beach I was of the Latin immediately excited to see the °"""'""" numerous surfboards lined up American coast and the countJffl bodi~ sitting llo upright in the 0 student wanderer 9 "Next thing I knew, he swept me off my feet. n View of the Miraflores district from above the Pacific Ocean. BY LAURA NALIN eople often yearn to The Miraflores travel to fall in love and P get sw·ept off their feet. district ofLima, On the other hand, some pfefer to embark on bold journeys in Peru, is more than hopes of fulfilling the intense adrenaline h igh they 10 student wanderer Miraflore-s district of to South Ameri stuc&.nt wanderer 11 HEARTOFA An in-depth look at the i1npact of El Co,nercio, Peru's oldest daily BY EMI PETERS we're going to open our vea· sury, .. he quips. After a brief man dressed in a pau:st, another man arrivM with bla:k, p;n-it,;ped a key to open the forbidden suit with a light door, allowing everyont inside blue dress shirt of a dark, regal-looking room. and datk blue tie The room is coated in rich, dark carefully leads a "voods and ceiling,high shelves tO\lr group of Columb;a College are packed with leather-bovnd Chicago students through a noisy book~ These books hold the im, construction area inside an aging mense archives of every issue of but graceful gray stone building. El Comeccio ever printed, datjng The man takes the group up a back to the pape(s very first is winding, dark mahogany staircase sue. published ;n 1839. to a second-floor landing, where the groop stops to view and Hardships to headlines take pictvres of an imp 12 student wanderer El Comercio's first issue in 1839 and 2010's cun-ent issue The glass ceiling right after entering through the main doors is a stunning piCK4 of art. on the free press.. Despite this, in· Miraflores district receive a ship depcndent1~1 owned newspape(S ment of aboln. 70 issues of El Co· like El Comer been serving to bullfightet'S1 Lhis popular South American the grape, they s tarted to pre sports stars, jo11 maJis1s. politi drink. Though there might be pare the liquor." cians and ente1tainers alike for some conflict as to who cruale 14 student wanderer "They were some barmen hut blames tJ1e Peruvian gov whoro Twork ed 'A'ltb," Cuadros ernment on how they handled said. ~r was tlleir disciple. I am the situation. While the history the youngest. These barmen .. we fall asleep on our ,,rere very restless and they 1aurels,.. Cuadrossaid. "'We of the drink's creation ,•..-otild go out to play dice and have lo blame the fathers of they would start thinking about our country, or, as theyc.all remains a national coriflict, how lo mix piscos and ere.ate: them.selves, the goveromenl. something." The government hasn't done the Pisco Sour will always be T hi.: first fJ L1Cmpls at pi::;co enough. Ir it wasn't for Ralll sour left the cocktail tasting Vargas [from Radio Programas Peru's 1nost beloved cocktail Ji_ke lemonade. It also lacked n)dio station] a,1d myself, we a full-bodied taste, so the bar- ,,..-o tddn't celebrate the d:w of 111cm added extra lime juice, the pisro sour,"' which hfi..,gan on sugar and even egg whites to f'ebruary 7, 2.002. create an eotirety different 'f1lough the day of pisco sour drink altogether. According LO has just reached its eighth year, Cuadros, measuring the egg things are looking up for Peru white was the m,,st diffi cult vian pisco. Despite Chile's oorn part because too much would mercialization and exportation irrnkc the student wanderer 15 AFRO-PERUVIAN FLAVOR BY EMI PETERS l is not every day a large doggy pilJow for a .sound tht1 t a group of 13 siesta. As the intel'\llew begins, college students &ca's homemade ,:hfr:ho mora and two instruc d BY BENITA ZEPEDA uring the weekends, two young men walk atound the neigh borhood of Barranco D with a guitar and a flute plastered to their side< They smile coyly at all the beautiful girls in the street and nod respectfolly at the gentleman that pay attel\ tion to them. Once they arrive to their street comer venue, Pen.Nian natives Samuel Vilca, 25, and Ronald De la Cruz Casuo, 28, unpack their instruments in less than a minute and begin playing songs many tourist$ recognize that create the perfect soondtrack tos.upplement Barranco's picturesque landscape. The charming neighborhood is located along the coast of Li m.a. At the top of a long. cobble stone path lined with a colorful suing of houses and restaurants, one can view the ocean. flowers,. mountains and trees that creates the ideal blend of natural beauty wooden flute v.ihile De la Ctuz "Playing the street thought I would be a musician, .. and architectural distinctiveness. strums on his guitar. They both started out as said De La Cruz. While Barranco bustles with play various instruments, but the He eventualty noticed how easy both tourists a.nd locals, music is blend of th~ flute and guitar is something that was it was to make money for playing echoed throughout the town. One that wori LEFT Pwnt. ~ /os Suspiros, a famous bridge in colorful Barranco BOTTOM The Ba,-. ranco neighborhood is hilly with bridges and sMlewalks curving through houses and shops, The duo said they have compe· tition with a lot of street perform· ers, but there are so many differ ent places to play music it is nev e, teally an issue. Each group has a different musical element to it Some musicians work in duos, like De la Cruz and Vil ca, some • are entire families and others are solo musicians. Unlike street performing in the United States, mLKidans don't need to have a permit to play in different establishments. Storeowners have an under standing that these musicians will come, play for their patrons and leave quietly after a song o, two. Jorge Omar Pinto. 41, a server and chef at /.iJ Posad• D<,/ Mirador Pub in Barranco, said street per- student wonderer 19 The seventh iuonder of the ,nodern iuorld was not originally discovered by Hira111 Bingha111 ' our women from Chicago line up with their arms around one kltlSTAM!NfS another, posing with the scenery TOP R6mulo of Machu Picchu glo"i ng behind Lizarraga explains them. One of them tells 1ne this has the h istory of Machu Picchu and been one of the places on her list to his connection to see for 20 years and she finally made it. Another it. LEFT Machu Pi HI came here so my husb,rnd pins and patches from the can watch my d;.n1ghter over pl~-1<..-es he has visited. tor him, LAUft(N SIIOSTO\'IITZ winter break," Barbara Wing Machu J>icchu a1td the city of Machu Piccbu?" •oveT there. M he points world. here was Pope John Paul Liz.irraga said. MEveryday there before. You climb and explore towards the mountains while JI, many )'ears ago. Here was the are many tourists. They put to reach an emotion you may 1's standing;_tl the IOJH)fthe nains. Oalai J..amu. Important people one small rock in their pockets, not know C.'(ists. 6 Ll7.Arrnga is a short man, fro m all O\'Cf the world used to 3~000 tourists are going to J)ut "It's a mystic place,M said t< j dressed in jeans hemmed to come here thinking this is one of one small rock of three or fouT Fnuteis Turk, from Buenos ., at."t.-ommodate his height, and the healing centers of the world grams in their pockets. how Aires. "If s full of energy and st\KMnt wandtrtr 21 Saleswoman Cristina Berduzco is a soft-spoken woman who ~Us her products at the Inca Jungle market in C:Usco. RU BLE 1NTHE ··1 JUNGLE'' 22 student wanderer Journey throHgh Cusco's colorful marketplace you can turn away. someone is <.·allingyou to come into Ihei r small cubicle-like shop. You d on't vnmt to he rude so you start to walk in, but I hen someone el!-t' t:-11_.s you on the shoulder. They want you to huy a sweater. Yo u're overwhelmed. .. Tht: Tnca .Jungle," ;;i flea market-like shopping. cenler has moTC than 15 vendors. mostly lndi::1n w <,101en, all oonrpeting to sell goods to lo 11 ri. .. 1~. who .are accord in~ to Yendors>th e majority of their clients. It look!. like most of the Indian markets in Peru. Shelves are stacked ....; th h,md· At the Inc.a Jungle you can get from alpaca sweaters.. ponchos knillecl .scarv(:S, blanket$, and hats to leather goods, pott~ry and jewelry. sod \S, aod S\,·eatcrs. Items <".a n be as cheap as 5 soles own specialty to add to it. ln ($1.75) for a small keyclmin "You have to have Alvarez's s hop, her spc.•da.lt)' to 60 soles ( $2 1) for an Alpac.l a lot of patience isjewehy. -1 make eve1y thing .sweater. thal is je\,•eh-y, stones, Most of the shops have and will of selling" neckl~ces, evel"}1hing. We :-.imilar items. h ut the vendors -CRJSIINA IIJ::lU>t:ZCO, 111<>1 work from 9 a.m. until 10 p.m. have different opinions on why JUngle sttlespen;ou I mn a pn,ducer more thuo a their sho1) is lk'Ucr. saleswoman ... she said. "There is no S() I student wanderer 23 Zoyla Zevallos Leyva, 67, chats with Columbia students about her life at Los Martincitos. She joined the community seeking a more active lifestyle and a family atmosphere. Elder care program gives hope to the II of Peru BY CRISTINA AGUIRRE PHOTOS BY GRACE SADTLER-TAYLOR 24 student wanderer Watch a video at http:// columbiachronid~.comflunch· lesson.s- tincitos. Ze"allos' daughter was sick :1nd· had no choice but to find more help. Antonio Palo· mino Quispe, c.-.:ecuti\'e director WITH 80TH OF HER PAJ..MS and founder of Los Mart:ineitos, stretched out slightly off her teeei\'Cd her. ~He was a good body, Zoyla Zevalloo Leyva, 67, person. and well ... C\'eryone begi1)s to sing a song in Quech· here \\'.lS good (or me, .. said \la, a Native Amc.rican la.ng\1age Zevallos. "'Ever)'onc knO\\'S how spoken primarily in the Andes to respect and care for each of Sot1l11 America. She sways other in a noble way.'" back and forth in a blank stare Palomino said the program singing in a beaut-i fu.1high · was started back in 19$7 with pitched but raspy voice. 11lis his thl'l..->e friends, who saw the is how she forgets her worTics need to ha\'e a place d('(lic:ated and problems she faces bock to helping out poor senior citi home whe1\ she comes to Los zens in Villa El Salvador. Tilcre ~lartincitos. are nroond 1 1'2 gn:mdparents in Zevallos is one of the senior the program but more than 80 citizens or abuelitos (grandpar ents) that take part in the Los Dalila smiles at the camera. Mart:incitos program at Oscar "I came here sick. but I feel good here. Some of the abuelitos at Romero Center located in Villa I am happy at the moment. it's a good Los Martincitos discuss their El Salvador, OJ\e of the most thing ... I like it here because I don't feel pitth to the program openly impo,·erish a.rcas outside of with COiumbia students. Lima. The program is designed the sadness that is my home." Many come seeking a more to helpsomeofthemost vul -ZOYl.~ ZEVALLOS I.EWA, 67 fulfilled lifcstyl<>. nerable people living in Villa by providing them with meals three times a week, physical abuelitos come to the program Determined to make it into miss a day at Los Mart'incitos. a,1ivities, and medic.al care. each week. The rest arc too the basket, Zev~1llos holds a Every Monday, Wednesday and "J came here sick, but I feel delicate in their health to come soccer ball with both of her friday, she oomc."S in from 9 good here. I am happy at the out. "'We go out and check to tiny, fragile hands and stops a. .m to noon. sometimes earlier, moment, it's a good thing," sec how they are doin&, We looking up at the rim. With the by bus. Always with a smile on Zevallos sa.id. Ml like it here always have to SC.-'t what's going other abuelitos watching her her face. t-he anticipates all the because I don't feel the sadness on with them,·· Palomino said. from the side. Zevallos makes recreational activities of the that is my home."' ·ro kt."'Cp them it into the net· \\'eek. ~I any of the abuelitos come healthy and less rim aod ~1 love to participate in e\' · to Martincito.s after their fa.m· moving, vol· starts to recrnit erything. When there is an invi• Cross.(uttural Solution'!. is a talion, I would always go.·· said ii)' were unable to take care of untccrs take non-profit o,ganiz.ation that other (11.>uclos them. Zevallos came to the pr student wnnde'1!'r 25 The story of Peruvian "street kids,"forced by poverty and disadvantage to become providers for their families n1uch too soon. BY SARAH OSTMAN HAYDEE It's a warm summer night Writer sarah and I laydee has her strategy Ostman do\,11 pat. A sturdy, outgoing smiles w ith girl of 11, she rearlessly works 11-year-old the rounds in the Parquc. Cen Oel ia a.s she tral in Lima's Miraflores district. displays the <:lutchillg a red (ast food c:up miniature th 1.1t has gone soft ;1round the dolls she edges. It's far from home, but sells every tourists are abundant in this day. neighborhood, many of whom sit coupled on benches, necking or eating ice cream. Hay student wanderer 27 ,rs NOT ONLY A PR08L&M 1111 UMA tion of Migration {IOM} in Lima, currentty being investigated by We found Fablana Marie "The more vulnerable you are. authorities. Women like Fabiana working on the comer of Quika the more likely you are to fall are less at risk living in Lima, and camana Streets in downtown into any sort of propositions.." which holds 4 percent of the Lima, but the cities of Iquitos aM total registered cases. Ateas out• Cusco have a lairge prostitution What about the law? side the city, where resources lack pcobfem as we41. Also unhelpful, is the absence even more, have the h ighest per· of any clear definition of law and centages. But human trafficking regulations that monitor sexual may not necessarily be prosecut· exploitation. When several tesi ed as such., and can exist under dents were asked i.vhether or not different names, said Cortes. prostitution was legal, there was "If you are using other peopie, no unanimity. you are exploiting other people "'The authorities go to the sexually for sexual commercial prostitutes and they say move. industry, that's what would be But they sometimes give some penalized," she said. D money and the authorities C~lfl/AI ..... ( leave,,. said Gino Stejibar, a 32 An international liaison year-old resident of Lima. just And that's what Harty, (he one of the many Peruvians who didn't want his last name pul:r poimed to locations like Avenida lishe STORY BY KRISTA HINES I IUUSTRATION BY ERIK RODRIGUEZ parents and they are the only back from her. Later I found oot building is still standing, how- "Finding the clinic people that I would ever call that her name was listed in the ever, it is abandoned. Mom and Dad. They are divorced phone book as Maria S. <:asta· came after many now, b Looking f or a tattoo but don't have ing by, thesoundaJoneofthe tattoo artist filled. seven gothic tattoo shop may be enough to letters. The letters spell out thefundsforfresh ink? Lin1a offers deter their confidence. How Pi.lcheco and are placed on his ever, -One of t11c tnat1y quirky lower bac:k. affordable prices. things tourists do when they \.Vhen l asked if Pac.heco \\'3S visit Lima, Pem is to hike n per going to tip, a customary and PHOTOS AND STORY manent nnd painfu) souvenir expected fonu of gratitude in BY lAUREN BROSTOWITZ home wiU1 them. ·who could America, he shook his head resist when the price is practi from side to side, puckered his cally a third of what you pay io lips and let out a modest hrngh. he deafening lhe United States? Fortunately for many tourists, .so11nd or Latin Al Coyote's Tattoo, a small Peruvians don·t share that cus electronic music tattoo shop located at Sajada tom. hardly drowned Balta L47 in tJte tourist area Luis Velfisquez, a w·ild haired, out the yells and or Miraflores. anyone from l'eruvian with his ear lobes leelJ1 denehing camcra.. hugging travelers to gaugt.'<1, or stretched a nd filled moans of a young American as native Pe111vians ran come and with hoops, said the shop's he sat gripping the fabric of his get "inked. .. minimum is 60 soles, ,.,hich Coyote Tattoo's artist Luis seal 'Ille buzzing of needles For tot1rists, especfall)' Anter amounts to approximately $20. Vel,squez has been tattooing pumping UJ>an d down into thick icans like Anthony Pad1ccu, Americao tattoo parlors in ur for eight years. layers of skin echoed off lhe 28, the price is just too good to ban areas typically charge any· waHs of the smalJ white room. ignore. ,,,,here from $6o to $JOO with Dripping \ ...ith sweat, tJ,e five of ·rm addicted to tattoos . . . the price fluctuating based on us decided whcthc:r to add shad· and ifs so cheaJ> here," Puchcco size. ~iyle and color. ing to his pully, bleeding tattoo. said ju~1 before letting out an Vel.isquez. who has been For prospective client-$ pass- other juit-")' rnoan, as an eclc<,tic tattooing for eight years, began 32. student w anderer drawing when he was a child. tiom;. the desire amoog Penivi· tern of sanitatioo. Unknowingly, he practfct.:.d aos to pcn:nanently carry these Alt11ough Peru may be a the ;.ut of reproducing images, images remains unknown. By Third \Vorld <:ounlry, Coynle's ,vbich luts become his career contrast, in the United States, Tattoo still steam cleans their today. His anns are covered in popularity demands traditional. machines aod ,1ses diSJ)C)Sclble an organic style that consists or ilco.. tradition al styles, such needles in order to pw:ent the ofimagery that resembles ten as sugar .s kulls, hearts with ban transmission or bacteria aod tacles and plant life. VelAsquez ners, anchors and sJ.."Ulls. dis{'ase. Tattoo artists and pie~ said tattooing is Jike painting, Like American artbis. Ye ers 11 re also certified in sanita only the skin is the canw,s and l:i..1oquez encourages newly "'tat· tion and must obtain and renew th" ink is paint. ted" people to wash their tattoo certificates annually thal vtrify Although many tourists often witll soap and water and their practice. frequent Coyote's Tattoo, Ve- a\·oid S\\imming untiJ the work for the mo~t par1. Peruvitu) 1Asquei' clientcle is predorni has healed. Oddly enough, he student Daniel Letnria. 19, nately Penni.ms. He said most also urges customers to avoid said tattoos are more prcva.lcot ''I'm addicted to tattoos ... and it's so cheap here.'' often C\tStoroers decide upon eating spicy food s as ii has the among Peru's younger genera• tribal art, such as tlte IJ'endy ability to infect the healing area. tions, but a handful of the i1dult tribal armband. Ironit'.ally, m~i I n1ysclf, ha\'ing been tattooed population has ai)d continues to Peruvians decide upon Aztec multiple times, fo ond this to invest in the taboo rom1o f e.x· i1mlgC.ry, which I fll)d C(mfus be especially remarkable. I ate pression. Although tattoos may ing considering the lncas re a fiery burrilo from Tac.'O Be.I] not be as ubiquitous as in lite sided in Peru. an area far from after my tMrd tattoo. United States, there are numer TOP Anthony Pacheco, 2-S, got the ancient Aztec empire that If safety and ~ nitatioo are ous places near the Parque clef his last name tattooed on his dominated North and Central holding you back from gettii~ Amor, a park dedicated to lov lower bade. BOTIOM Coyote America in the 14th thr(>ug;h a tatto() in this culturnlly ,ich ers, "there a curious traveler can Tattoo's minimum pric& the 16th centuries. Despite the countJy, fear not. One thing receive a one of a kind purchase is about S40 less than the simihoi ty in symbols and style Pi,:ruvian tattoo artjsts do ~h student wanderer 33 you would like to feeJ your best. Unfortunately, v.·hcn being so high up certain symptoms can occur. Ustutlly th<..J' arc dizziness, headache. lack of .appetite, \'Omiting and loss of energy. These symptoms are caused by altitude sickness a11d are actually \'e1y common for tourists \~siting C\lsco. BEi.TIA ZEPEDA What tourists say The cathedral at the main Melanie Vento, originally plaza in Cusco is located at from United St.ates, has bee.n 11,023 feet above sea level. living in Cusoo fo r one year and RIGHT Coca tea, served at a h~llf ...1 definitely httd lrooble a Cusco restaurant. helps at fi rst, especiaUy walking prevent attitude sickness up and down lhe streets. But symptoms. recently when I did go home fol' Christmas J came back and hud to stan all over again," she said. You may need Altitude sicknt>-o;s (called soroche in Pem) is vel)' so,ne help ivhen co1nmon especially if you aren't used to being so high you are at 11,000 up. There is less oxygc 1l in the air. Viviana Braacos from feet above sea Argentina said, .., don·r reel level. Coca tea can anything becaose I took the pills. I came out today because definitely do it it's sunny but I he-.trd it's good fllOlETVRIA to just rest the fi rst day. .. Some people don't like to take medication s11c.-h as Claire Harton from Eogl.and. - I felt COCA, NOT COCOA lethargic and headachy, but now J\re been here fol' a week BY GRACIA SADTLER•TAYLOR so we decided t.o fo llow. We Sorojch i pills so 1 doo't [(.,,el ii anymore. J were all taking pictures and aro availabte at avoided getting piUs because I his is my third just enjoying all the views. Peruvian drug heard it can give you ting.ling visit to Cusco Suddenly, I began to feel out of • stores without a in hands and fingers but weof and I have come breath, my heart beat faster as I presaiption. course took coca tea," she said. pn.:pan."tl. Rut let walked up the street. I realized I All tourists try different me tell you what my friends staJ'ted to walk medicatioos. I asked happened on my previous trip. slower toe">. l asked thcin ir they pharmacist Doris Espinow After a short fljgh t from felt if it was harder to breathe C¢t1rteSy CJIESPAL whkh where most popular and Lima I arrived to l\LSco for tlle mid they a,gn."ed. .she said, ...most lourist take second time. The i,irport w as We decided lo take the day This time I was prepared S01'0jchi so they won't feel the small and filled "ith people slower. When J visited Cusco for altitude. [ l'his} is a pill that ready to help tourist,;. When Eve1yone wanted to see the the firs t time l was 8 years old stops he.adache and vomiting." e.xiting the airport I realized catlledral but at that point I 1 didn't reel anything, so my There are many Lhings you it was a beautiful day, VCl)' felt very dir.,,;y. We stopped to .second visit surprised me. So I can do to avoid getting really sunn)rand clear. J noticed the take pictures and I felt that I prepared myself for this third sick. such drinking plenty of mountains surroundi1lg me. oouldn't even stand so I snl visit by ,~king some aJritude water before you arrive, taking Wl1en he<1ding towards my on the sidewalk. My head pills I bought in Lima prior pins and drinking coca lea. hostel we saw how gorgeous aod heart v.·eru pounding to Lhe fl ight. I stil1 felt a little Also, if the allitude siekn~ Cusco was. the sln!ets were and everything seemed to be dizzy but J was much better gets too bad, some restaurants nan-ow, steep and it looked so mo\.ing around so I told them coinpar(.-d lo my seoond vis ii. a nd hotelsoffer oxygen. What picture$C.1ue. I couldn't wuit to I had to go back to the hostel. Cusco is actually located at you need to do is to take put my luggage down and get to '111ey wanted to ootne with me ail all-ih1de of 3,360 melers E!.''el)rthlng slower