Wisconsin Ihistorical Society

Wisconsin IHistorical Society

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Division Administrator & State Historic Preservation Officer Michael E. Stevens

Editorial Director Kathryn L. Borkowski Editor Jane M. de Broux

Managing Editor Diane T. Drexler

Research and Editorial Assistants Brian Bengtson, Joel Heiman, Melissa Johnson, John Nondorf, James Tewes, John Zimm The Origins of Designer Wisconsin's Ice Age Trail The AVS Group Ray Zillmer's Path to THE WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY (ISSN Protect the Past 0043-6534), published quarterly, is one of the many benefits of membership in the Wisconsin Historical by Sarah Mittkfehldt Society. Annual memberships are: •Individual, $40.00 •Senior citizen individual, $30.00 •Family, $50.00 Burning Up the Lake •Senior citizen family, $40.00 Racing on Elkhart Lake's •Institutional, $65. Historic Road Circuit To join the Society or to give a gift membership, send a check to Membership, Wisconsin Historical Society, 816 by Peter Laun State Street, IVIadison, Wl 53706-1482, call the Membership Office at 888-748-7479, e-mail vvtismemt)[email protected], or go to our Web site. The WMH has been published quarterly since 1917 by Z/IS On to Montezuma's Halls the Wisconsin Historical Society (608-264-6400). The Story of Alexander Conze Copyright © 2007 by the State Historical Society of Wisconsin. Permission to quote or otherwise reproduce by John Zimm portions of this copyrighted work must be sought in writing from the publisher. Communication, inquiries, and manuscript submissions may be sent to WHS Press, 816 State Street, Madison, Wl 53706-1482 or [email protected]. Further information T"^ Sisson's Peony Gardens in Bloom about the WMH is available on the Society Web site. by Lee Somerville www.wisconsinhistory.org Photographs identified with PH, WHi, or WHS are from the Society's collections; address inquiries about such photos to the Visual Materials Archivist, 816 State 48 Finding Freedom Street, Madison, Wl 53706-1482. The Untold Story of Joshua The Wisconsin Historical Society does not assume Glover, Runaway Slave responsibility for statements made by contributors. Periodicals postage paid at Madison, Wl 53706-1482. by Ruby West Jackson and Back issues, if available, are $10 plus postage (888-748-7479). Microfilmed copies are available Walter T. McDonald through University Microfilms, 300 N. Zeeb Road, Ann Arbor, Ml 48106. On the front cover: Roaring engines and flashy driving Letters 53 thrilled spectators as race cars sped through the village each summer during the 1950-1952 Elkhart Curio 56 Lake Road races. Road America Archives

VOLUME 90, NUMBER 3 / SPRING 2007 The Origins of \N\ec Ray Zillmer's Path U.S. Representative Henry Reuss (front row, right) leads hikers on the Ice Age Trail. Reuss worked with Raymond Zillmer and Gaylord Nelson to create the 1,000-mile long trail. onem e \ce Age Trail to Protect the Past

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ith the end of the Ice The idea for a continuous Age about ten thou­ 500-mile park—which later Wsand years ago, the morphed into a 1000-mile climate warmed and slowly trail—began in the Kettle disintegrated a mile-high wall Moraine, a section of rolling of ice known as the late Wis­ hills located about forty-five consin Glacier. Like an enor­ minutes west of Milwaukee. mous conveyor belt, the Starting in the 1920s, the Mil­ retreating glacier deposited waukee Chapter of the Izaak loads of sediment along its Walton League worked to pro­ southern edge, leaving a strip tect the area for recreational of gravelly hills that demar­ purposes. The Izaak Walton cated its final reach.' Known League was, and continues to as the terminal moraine, this be, a national conservation serpentine strip preserves the organization dedicated to pro­ memory of the glacier and tecting our natural heritage serves as a reminder of Wis­ and providing opportunities consin's geologic past. In the for outdoor recreation by late 1950s, Raymond T. using local volunteer chapters. Zillmer, a Milwaukee attorney, As president of the Milwaukee recognized that by shaping Chapter, Zillmer led the effort Wisconsin's physical land­ that established the northern scape, the glacier had helped and southern units of the Ket­ shape the state's cultural land­ tle Moraine State Forest in the scape. He believed that "geo­ Attorney and conservationist Raymond Zillmer devoted the late 1930s and 1940s. By 1958, last years of his life to the preservation of Wisconsin's logical and geographical the area was known as the glacial landscape and the creation of the National Scenic factors . . . determine, in a "nucleus" of the larger Ice Age Trail, which became part of the National Scenic broad sense, the activities and Trail System in 1980—twenty years after his death. national park proposal. history of our country."^ In In his work to protect the 1958, he proposed a national park, the Wisconsin Glacier Kettle Moraine, Ray Zillmer developed a philosophy of con­ National Forest Park, to protect the state's unique geologic servation that was broader than conventional rationales for features and, further, to enlighten people about the influence establishing national parks. According to historian Alfred the glaciers had on the history of the state. Runte, Congress designated the first national parks in the The proposed park was unlike any national park in exis­ West for their value as scenic monuments, starting with Yel­ tence. Instead of a tight green cluster concentrated within a lowstone in 1872. The early parks primarily served a symbolic concise area on a map, Zillmer's park was an elegant 500- function because most Americans could not actually visit mile line tracing the path of the terminal moraine. Unlike them.^ However, with the development of the railroads, other national parks, it was located in a landscape devoid of hoards of wealthy easterners seeking wild, untamed nature rugged mountains, vast deserts, and ocean vistas—the con­ traveled to the western parks. These visiting masses, which ventional ingredients of wilderness. Instead, the proposed John Muir referred to as the "thousands of tired, nerve- Wisconsin park snaked through working forests, abandoned shaken, over-civilized people," looked to wilderness in the farms, and rural communities. Although the park has been West to balance the mental and spiritual chaos of an increas­ known by several names, including Wisconsin Glacier ingly urban and industrial society back East.*^ In the 1980s, in National Forest Park, Moraine National Park, Ice Age response to these flocks of tourists, Congress began recogniz­ National Park, and finally its current designation as the Ice ing national parks for their recreational value, along with their Age National Scenic Trail—its official purpose has remained scenic and symbolic value.' the same: to protect and celebrate the effects of continental Since the late nineteenth century, Americans have wanted glaciation.^ By protecting the state's geologic past, the pro­ their national parks to contain remote, mysterious, and unde­ ject's objective was to help people understand the role of the veloped lands. The wilderness protection movement gained physical environment in shaping human history and, more political momentum in the early twentieth century during the generally, to help people cultivate an appreciation of nature interwar period, boomed again in the 1950s with the rise of and outdoor activity. outdoor recreation, and eventually exploded with the 1964

www.wisconsinhistory.org Huge chunks of ice deposited in glacial debris created depressions, many kettle-shaped ifaiCing Boulders and loose rock embedded in page). More than 10.000 became the moving ice scratched bedrock lakes, others bogs and swamps. like a giant rasp, leaving clear marks Hundreds remain dry. More lakes of its passage. Grinding action of were formed as the ice gouged silt particles polished rock surfaces rock basins or dammed Superior -tf^ and produced fine "rock flour" that streams with debris. gave a milky cast to streams or containing glacial meltwater. ST aXXXNATIONAl—^,^ Ct.C^ sccMCunraiwAy \ CHCOUAUCeOM HAXION/U. Fonisr (B

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National Geographic Wilderness Act. Yet, despite the socie­ tal obsession with wilderness, Zillmer remained relatively indifferent about trying to protect distant, virgin land­ scapes. In an essay entitled "The Trou­ ble with Wilderness; or. Getting Back to the Wrong Nature," historian William Cronon explains that "idealiz­ ing a distant wilderness too often t. means not idealizing the environments in which we actually live, the land­ scape that for better or worse we call home." Zillmer understood this dilemma, and, although he appreci­ ated undeveloped land, he celebrated working landscapes. Instead of rugged mountain landscapes of the West, he envisioned spaces for outdoor recre­ ation that provided opportunities to experience both wild and working landscapes. He believed that by hiking and camping in places "where some poor devil beat his life out trying to coax a living from the glacial gravel," citizens could learn about their agrar­ ian heritage. This experience might help people develop a connection with the land. Further, people would recog­ nize the area as a space full of memo­ •^ ries that acted as a reminder of their •v^' heritage, not as a primeval place to flee from society. For Zillmer, connecting with nature could occur just as easily in "commonplace" landscapes as in wilderness.

illmer's ideas about nature and [^ its relationship to wilderness y%.:;:'^ were influenced by several trips "« 43 Z to Europe. European hiking trails were *;<«?. not generally constructed in wilderness landscapes; rather, they traversed working farms and wandered through M. rural villages. He admired European trail systems. Upon returning from a three-month trip through Germany, Jim Staudacher Austria, Switzerland, and Italy, Zillmer Zillmer admired landscapes that showed how people had lived and worked reported that "[ajfter seeing what has with the terrain. This fence between two fields near Dundee, ca. 1979, been done in Europe in the matter of was built of glacial erratic stones. trails and camp sites I am more enthu­ siastic than ever about our National Park program." "^ Additionally, these WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY trips to Europe prompted him to consider the demographics drive hundreds of miles to northern Wisconsin to catch a of national park users and the appropriate location of brief glimpse of nature when they could experience it in their national parks in relation to population density. own county? Zillmer emphasized the need to make nature more acces­ In promoting the Kettle Moraine State Forest, Zillmer sible to those who need it most—working Americans in the pointed out that its close proximity to urban populations in nation's heartland. Many Wisconsinites believed that the the southeastern part of the state saved the people of Mil­ opening of the St. Lawrence Seaway in 1959 would shift the waukee "tires, gasoline, automobile wear and tear, and most demographic center of the nation from the East Coast to the important of all, time, as against Northern Wisconsin, 300 Midwest. As a result, the Janesville Daily Gazette reported miles away." •' He often stressed how the long, linear shape of that the proposed park would help fulfill the recreational the larger park would provide easier access for all of Wiscon­ needs of the entire country. In addition to fulfilling a sin's residents, as it could be "reached by almost everyone in national need, Zillmer recognized the importance of devel­ the state in an hour's drive," while a "compact park in one oping recreational areas for Wisconsin residents. He com­ area may require a half or whole day's drive."'"^ plained that the southern part of Wisconsin contained most Long drives to get to a wilderness required more time sit­ of the state's people, but the fewest places for outdoor recre­ ting passively in cars and resulted in less time being active in ation. Zillmer wrote to M. W. Torkelson of the Wisconsin the outdoors. Zillmer blamed the automobile and other State Planning Board: "ingenious labor-saving devices" for the declining physical health of American citizens. He believed that the simple act Copper Falls, Devil's Lake, the Wisconsin Dells and the bluffs of walking could help produce healthier Americans. of the Peninsula State Park are magnificent and should be To promote public health, Zillmer wanted to create recre­ preserved. But we should not make the mistake of overlook­ ational spaces close to where people worked and lived, so that ing the aesthetic and recreational value of that scenery which they could get outside and defy the plague of laziness that had is commonplace, the hills and streams and farmlands of begun to sweep the country. In January 1958, he wrote to southern Wisconsin, which are so much more available to the Wisconsin Conservation Commission director Guido Rahr: people who need outdoor recreation.'-^ I have always believed that if our country is overcome by the Zillmer was aware of the irony of believing that nature Russians, it will not be because of Communism or weapons had to be far away, and he thought driving long distances to of war, but because their people are physically strong and our "get in touch with nature" was a waste of time and energy. own people have deteriorated physically and mentally, largely Why should the people of Wisconsin drive thousands of miles because of our wonderful labor-saving devices which are to Yellowstone National Park, or the people of Milwaukee making all of us lazy." n •-'•i •'T'---»

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Zillmer often wrote how a strong "primitive" people established a separate organization called the Ice Age Park would always overcome a weak, "decadent" people. He and Trail Foundation, which had a modest membership fee feared that the physical, mental, and spiritual health of the to ensure everyone's involvement was affordable. A woman average American was declining and proposed the national from Arena became its first official member with a one dol­ park as a place to combat the decadence of laziness and the lar contribution. ' erosion in personal character that it caused. He believed that Before becoming a lawyer in 1914, Zillmer had earned a the nation needed citizens with sound bodies and minds and PhD in political science, which he taught for a year at the wrote, "To keep our people efficient for their work and to University of Wisconsin. His understanding of political sci­ keep many from being delinquent, requires that they use the ence proved to be essential in his voluntary career as a con­ outdoors to keep them fit physically, mentally, and spiritu­ servationist, providing the skills he needed to marshal ally." For Zillmer, outdoor recreation was much more than support from people who represented all walks of life; from a leisure-time pursuit; it ensured America's physical, cultural, business and political leaders to religious authorities and and moral strength. labor organizers. Zillmer considered nearly any interest However, before pitching the project to the national pub­ group to be a potential ally of the proposed park and wrote to lic and soliciting support from the federal government, scout masters of local Boy Scout troops, as well as the presi­ Zillmer realized that first he must demonstrate that the peo­ dents of northern timber companies, such as the Weyer­ ple of Wisconsin understood and supported the idea for a haeuser Company and the Consolidated Water Power & 500-mile linear park. He maintained that the park was to be Paper Company of Wisconsin Rapids. a project designed by and developed for local people. In For the project to be successful, Zillmer believed it needed 1958, he organized the Citizens Committee for the Moraine to be profitable for the people living in the communities along National Park, a network of local leaders, to build public its route. The rural landscape of Wisconsin had changed dra­ awareness and political momentum for the park and to help matically during the 1950s, when the suburbs sprawled and lobby for the project across the state. For tax purposes, he leisure time increased. As a result, farmers and loggers relied

Jim Staudaclner 'Angle Rock" is located along the St. Croix River. It was created when the glacier retreated and drained Glacial Lake Duluth, which caused the massive flooding that molded the dramatic cliffs. Today it's a hot spot for cliff jumpers and rock climbers.

www.wisconsinhistory.org WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

Jim Staudacher WHi Image ID 45350 Backpackers Mark Radke (left) and .lames Staudacher on the This typical monune—a ridge of sand and stone left by the Ice Age Trail near Ridge Run Park, West Bend, May 1979. glaciers—in Walworth County is one of many that define the During the summer of 1979, Staudacher was theflrst person route of the Ice Age Trail. to hike the entire Ice Age Trail. more on other sources of income, and outdoor recreation siastically endorsing the proposal. First, for people without became an important component of the rural economy Rural scientific training, Wisconsin's glacial landscape required inhabitants, who once cultivated corn, raised cows, or har­ interpretation and not all citizens shared Zillmer's passion for vested lumber, began to produce an "experience" of nature to geology. Mead wrote, "While I greatly respect those who be consumed by visiting tourists, and Zillmer received letters understand Geology, the subject happens to be a field of from resort owners who expressed their interest in the park's income-generating potential. For example, Jerome Roltgen, owner of the Kettle Moraine Farm Vacation Home in Glen- beulah, wrote to Zillmer to learn more about the rock forma­ tions nearby. He wanted to educate his guests about the local geology to promote his business. '^

ther Wisconsinites were less eager to embrace the park proposal, however, and occasionally Zillmer's Oefforts to recruit local support for the park failed. For example, Zillmer sent a letter to Stanton W. Mead, president of the Consolidated Water Power & Paper Company, explaining the movement to establish a national park that would feature Wisconsin's glacial history. He explained that many miles of the Appalachian Trail in Maine ran through lumber companies' private lands and that the relationship between lumbermen and trail supporters was generally ami­ able. Zillmer also cited an editorial in the December 1958 issue of Harpers' Magazine that explained how sixty-five lumber companies across the nation had established public parks on their land. Using these precedents, Zillmer empha­ sized that timber production and outdoor recreation could be compatible uses of the forest. When he asked Mead if the Consolidated Water Power & Paper Company would be willing to support the proposed park, Mead's thoughtful response expressed some typical Jim Staudacher concerns that hindered many private individuals from enthu- The Ice Age Trcdl serves the state's recreation needs year round.

SPRING 2007 WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

learning which I passed by completely in my years of educa­ tion."^ Foreign-sounding geologic terms such as "eskers," Ve^n\tAone> ofQ\ac\a\ "moraines," and "erratics" often meant little to Wiscon­ features and where they can sinites, many of whom were unimpressed by, indifferent to, or simply unaware of the state's glacial past. be found on the Ice Age Trail In addition to the public's lack of knowledge or apprecia­ tion of geology, the regional politics of the state affected the Erratics: Like giant chocolate chips in a disintegrat­ relationship local communities had with the park proposal. ing ball of cookie dough, erratics are boulders that were Mead wrote Zillmer that citizens in the northern part of the frozen in the glacier state resented the notion that their backyards should serve as and then deposited when the ice melted. playgrounds for people from the southern regions of the state. Erratics are usually In 1960, the Wisconsin Department of Research Develop­ large, smooth and »^' ment reported that of the six million vacationers in Wiscon­ round. They are fairly sin that year, out-of-state residents visited all parts of easy to recognize Em& l^li i^?'j^iT**^ ^~ Wisconsin, while vacationing Wisconsin residents—primarily because they tend to =a<*^*"'7'^:||l'^^?jp*^^ '*^"" from the urban centers in the southeastern part of the state— look nothing like tha local bedrock. Erratics ^^._: - tended to visit the northern counties.'^ In response to this are ubiquitous along trend Mead wrote, "We of the north country have industrial the trail, except where needs as do those of the southern sections of the state and we ^ , , WHIi ImagImage IID 453445345 resist the concept that we are obligated to keep our area the path goes through A sizeable example of a sections of the Drift- A sizeable example of a primitive or that we should furnish the recreational areas for less Area—the section glacier-deposited erraticerratic the highly developed industrial areas."^2 This statement of southwestern Wis­ consin that was never covered by glaciers. You may also speaks to different forms of economic production between see these large boulders lined up as fence rows, where northern rural places and southern urban places. In it, Mead farmers have removed them to plow a field. expressed the resentment northern residents occasionally felt towards the leisure-time activities of southern residents and Eskers: Rivers that flowed through horizontal tunnels the economic power southerners had to pursue those activi­ at the bottom of the glacier deposited round, winding ridges of sand and gravel known as eskers. Eskers can be ties. Fueled by differences in class and regional identity, this found in Polk and Taylor counties along the trail, but most antagonism complicated the task of convincing citizens from notably in the northern unit of the Kettle Moraine State For­ the northern counties to support the park. est—the Parnell Esker. Zillmer was familiar with the independent character of Wisconsin's northern residents, and he understood that if the Kames: Like eskers, kames were formed by streams flowing through the glacier. Instead of a horizontal flow park was to succeed in the North, it would have to have solid leaving winding ridges, however, kames were formed by backing from its communities. In an attempt to organize local water flowing downward through vertical shafts in the gla­ support, Zillmer wrote to O. J. Falge, an attorney from the cier, leaving cone-shaped deposits of sand and cobble. northern town of Ladysmith in Rusk County. Zillmer According to the Ice Age Trail Companion Guide 2006, the explained the economic benefits from tourism that commu­ Kettle Moraine area contains the "largest and most impor­ tant kame fields in the world." nities such as Ladysmith would reap from having a national park so close. He requested that Falge help organize a local Kettle: In the mix of the sand and gravel deposits, the committee to support the park, so that the National Park Ser­ glaciers left large chunks of ice. When these massive ice vice would not "neglect" the northern part of the state.^ He cubes melted, they destabilized the surrounding material reassured Falge that other northern communities such as and created substantial holes in the ground—sometimes Chippewa Falls, Stevens Point, and Antigo supported the up to 100 feet deep. Like erratics, they are fairly ubiquitous along the trail. proposal and emphasized that the park was not just a play­ ground for Wisconsin's southern citizens, but it was also a Moraines: The glacier deposited ridges of sand, recreational and economic resource for people in the North. gravel, and boulders along its front end and outer edge. As a state-wide collaboration, the park belonged to citizens in These areas are called moraines and they define the path the northern counties just as much as it belonged to the of the trail. state's southern citizens. Over time, the state's northern resi­ Information from: Ice Age Trail Companion Guide 2006, dents warmed up to the idea and, today, more than half of Ice Age Park and Trail Foundation, 2006. the twenty-four local chapters of the Ice Age Park and Trail Foundation are located in northern counties.

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the state. Leo Diederich, Chief of Park Planning for the National Park Service in 1958, was quoted in the Antigo Daily Journal, "If Wisconsin people expect that there would be a continuous national park, 500 miles across Wisconsin, they should not have any such idea.""*' Diederich stressed that even if the government was able to buy the necessary lands for the proposed park, no one knew how to administer it. Before the National Scenic Trails System Act of 1968, there was simply no precedent for managing such a long, skinny unit of public land. Until 1968, long-distance trails such as the Appalachian Trail, functioned primarily through the use of "handshake agreements" between trail supporters and local landowners. These agreements allowed hikers to simply walk across pri­ WHi Image ID 45341 vately-owned lands without any formal contract between the View of the originally proposed Ice Age National Scientific landowner, trail clubs, or government agencies. In 1960, Reserve, showing erratics at the base of the fence George Blackburn, secretary of the Appalachian Trail Con­ and a moraine in the background. ference, explained to Zillmer that "permission for a trail such as the Appalachian Trail or the one you are promoting . . . n addition to garnering local support in all regions of the depends very greatly on establishing and maintaining good state, Zillmer enlisted the help of state and federal officials. relations with the landowner."^' When the interests of recre­ I Although private donations might come from individuals, ational users and private landowners clashed, there was no Zillmer believed that the state and federal government should legal structure to mitigate the conflict, and private landowners take the lead in purchasing and managing the necessary land. always had the final say. As a result, long-distance trails tended When government officials expressed concern about funding to be continuous in concept, but fragmented in reaHty. such a project, Zillmer put the cost of the proposed park in Zillmer knew that the best way to protect these linear perspective by pointing out the relative costs of other govern­ recreational landscapes would be to turn them into public ment-funded projects. goods. He also understood that their unusual shape would Zillmer was especially critical of public spending on high­ require a new administrative approach to land management. ways. In a letter to the Milwaukee Journal he wrote, "We Zillmer envisioned an administrative structure in which all spend a lot to go faster. Let us spend a Httle to go slower.""^* levels of the government, including local, state, and federal The government often used the power of eminent domain to agencies, would cooperate with private citizens and non- create roads and Zillmer wondered, "Why should the Con­ servation Department hesitate to condemn a few pieces of land when the Highway Department condemns millions of dollars of land each year? No highways could be built with­ out condemnation. Why not for trails?""^^ In Zillmer's mind, the public benefited just as much from a place to hike as from a place to drive. Although other states, such as Virginia, had used the power of eminent domain to create the Shenandoah National Park in the 1920s and 1930s, Zillmer was unable to convince state and federal authorities that the Wisconsin park warranted such action. In addition to their concern about how to finance the park and acquire the necessary land, government representatives wondered how such a massive project would be managed. The linear shape of the proposed 500-mile park made it an administrative nightmare in the minds of traditional land management agencies. Government bureaucrats working for WHi Image ID 45343 the National Park Service or the Wisconsin Conservation An Ice Age Trail cur view taken by Jim Staudacher Department were accustomed to managing public lands that shows a combination of lands created by the glacier were well-defined, not extended units that meandered across and cultivated by human hands.

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m M ^^ E WHi Image ID 45337 ri Jim Staudache|r WHi Image ID 2290 Senator Gaylord Nelson stands in In 1980, when Congress established the Ice Age Trail Aldo Leopold, Zillmer's front of the U. S. Capitol. A noted as part of the National Scenic Trail System, more famous contemporary environmentalist. Nelson proposed Congressman Henry Reuss spoke at multiple in land conservation the National Scenic Trails System dedication ceremonies as each new section Act to Congress in 1968. of the Trail opened. profit conservation groups. Although Congress had rejected stated that "we aren't absolutely committed to a 500-mile the first proposal for a new national park in Wisconsin, intro­ long park. Our prime concern is getting for Wisconsin a park duced by Representative Henry Reuss in 1958, Zillmer that will show the nation the effects of the Ice Age."^' After remained undaunted by the scale of the project. Working Zillmer's death, Reuss temporarily set aside the idea of a with notable leaders such as Reuss, Senator Gaylord Nelson, long, linear park and worked with other congressmen to cre­ and others, Zillmer devoted the last three years of his life— ate the Ice Age National Scientific Reserve. from 1958 to 1960—almost entirely to the project.^ Ray Zillmer did not live to see the actualization of his stablished in 1964, the Ice Age National Scientific ideas for the park. Despite his active lifestyle, which included Reserve consisted of nine separate units that high­ hiking and snowshoe trips to the Kettle Moraine, his heart Elighted interesting geologic features in the landscape. failed in late November 1960. As he lay on his death bed in Six of the units lay on the route proposed in Zillmer's origi­ the Milwaukee Hospital, he wrote to the Milwaukee Journal nal plan. Reuss hoped Congress eventually might connect and expressed his concern about whether he would "be able these six units like "pearls on a string" and create the contin­ to finish the Kettle Moraine—Ice Age Project or get it so far uous landscape that Zillmer had envisioned. "^ In 1980, the established that it will carry through on its own momen­ six pearls were finally linked—at least on paper—and tum."^ Ray Zillmer died on December 13, 1960, and, with­ Zillmer's ambitious plan came closer to reality when the Ice out his dedication and leadership, the movement for a Age Trail became part of the National Scenic Trail System. national park along the terminal moraine of the Wisconsin The Ice Age National Scientific Reserve system still exists glacier lost its initial momentum.'^" today as a separate network administered by the Department Even before Zillmer's death, after Congress had rejected of Natural Resources. the park proposal for the second time in 1959, Reuss had While he may not have been aware of it at the time, begun to seek compromises. When the National Park Service Zillmer's proposal to create a recreational landscape that suggested preserving a concentrated area, as opposed to the would span 500 miles across Wisconsin was part of a broader continuous strip that Zillmer envisioned, Reuss agreed and movement to create a system of long-distance hiking trails in

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America's hinterlands. Although Congress rejected the pro­ Despite these measures, the Ice Age Trail remains a work posal in 1958 and again in 1959, the Wisconsin movement in progress. Today, as it snakes from its eastern terminus in helped plant the seed for future initiatives. Three years after Door County at Potawatomi State Park to its western termi­ Zillmer's death in 1960, Wisconsin Senator Gaylord Nelson nus in Polk County along the St. Croix River, the path crosses met Dr. Cecil CuUander of the Potomac Appalachian Trail a variety of landscapes—forests, farms, wetlands, prairies, Club at a congressional fundraiser. When Cullander rural communities, and even the suburbs of Madison. On explained the club's struggle to protect the Appalachian Trail average, the trail ranges from fifty to 1000 feet wide and, offi­ from private development, the experience resonated with cially, it is approximately 1000 miles long. Yet, while the trail Nelson's own experience working with Zillmer on Wiscon­ exists in its entirety on paper, only half of the 1000 miles have sin's Glacier Park. Nelson figured, "[WJell, hell, I might as been developed. well introduce a bill to preserve the Appalachian Trail," and, In spite of the Ice Age Trail's fragmented existence, one in 1968, he proposed the National Scenic Trails System Act thing is clear: the trail and the land that it crosses contain a to Congress.^^ vast history—not only about the state's geologic past, but also The 1968 National Scenic Trail System Act recognized the about the varied ways in which the land has shaped human Appalachian Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail as the first two experiences. In 1958, by protecting Wisconsin's unique gla­ national scenic trails in the system and established a legal struc­ cial landscape, Ray Zillmer hoped to preserve the story of the ture for developing other trails throughout the country. In people who hunted game, cultivated crops, and harvested addition to the legal recognition of national trails as a type of timber along the path of the terminal moraine. In doing so, public land, the 1968 Act estabHshed a means to purchase land he hoped modern explorers might learn, not only about gla­ for the trails. It gave the federal government the authority to ciers and the physical landscape that they helped to produce, secure the right-of-way or to acquire land for trails if state and but also about the hidden human history contained in the local governments failed to do so within two years. In 1978, Wisconsin landscape. however, Congress amended the 1968 Act and prohibited fed­ Just as physical landscapes change as a result of geological eral spending on land acquisition for the national scenic trails. and biological forces, our perceptions of them change as a Instead, the federal government was allowed to grant money result of the ideas and experiences of people. Since 1958, the only to state and local governments, or to non-profit conserva­ thousands of people who have explored the Ice Age Trail as tion organizations, to purchase land for trails.^ hikers, volunteers, or simply observers of nature, have In 1981, a year after the Ice Age Trail became part of the become part of the Wisconsin landscape's history. In 1949, National Scenic Trail System and the idea to protect a long­ Aldo Leopold wrote, "Recreation, however, is not the out­ distance space for outdoor recreation officially made it back doors, but our reaction to it." Though Ray Zillmer never to Wisconsin, Ronald Reagan took his seat in the Oval achieved the fame of Leopold—his contemporary in land Office. With him came James Watt as the new Secretary of conservation—Zillmer's proposal for the Wisconsin Glacier the Interior and additional obstacles. When Watt proclaimed National Park helped to create a space for future generations that "I don't like to walk," trail advocates knew that the path to explore and define the meaning of that reaction, ftffl to developing these long-distance routes would be difficult. Despite the increasing recreational use of the Ice Age Trail, Notes and the first "thru-hike" by Jim Staudacher of Milwaukee in 1. David Mickelson, "Wisconsin's Glacial Landscapes," in Wisconsin Land and Life, ed. Robert C. Ostergren and Thomas R. Vale (Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 1979, land acquisitions occurred slowly during the early 1997), 37-39. 2. Raymond Zillmer to American Heritage, December 10, 1959, Raymond T. Zillmer 1980s. Papers, W^isconsin Historical Society, Madison, Wl. In the late 1980s, however, the State of Wisconsin took the 3. Raymond T. Zillmer, "The Wisconsin Glacier National Forest Park," Lore 8, no. 2 (1958). lead on land acquisitions. The state legislature designated the 4. Ibid. Ice Age Trail as a State Scenic Trail in 1987 and established 5. Alfred Runte, National Parks: The American Experience, 2nd ed. (Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1987). the Wisconsin Stewardship Program in 1989. The Steward­ 6. John Muir quoted in "The Wild Parks and Forest Reservations of the West," Atlantic Monthly,8l (1898), 15. ship Program allocated $5,000,000 over ten years to buy land 7. Roderick Nash, Wilderness and the American Mind, 4th ed. (New Haven, CT: Yale for the Ice Age Trail. In 2000, the program was renewed— University Press, 2001), 120. 8. William Cronon, "The Trouble with Wilderness; or. Getting Back to the Wrong the Knowles-Nelson Stewardship Program—and the legisla­ Nature," in Uncommon Ground: Rethinking the Human Place in Nature, ed. William ture allocated $30,000,000 over ten years for developing state Cronon (New York: W.W. Norton & Company, 1996), 85. 9. Interview with Zillmer, 'The Coffee Break," Lefs See Magazine,^un& 13, 1958. trails, including the Ice Age Trail. In 1999, in addition to state 10. Raymond Zillmer to Fred F. Anderson, November 16, 1959, Raymond T. Zillmer Papers. funding. Congress began appropriating money from the 11. EditorvA], Janesville Daily Gazette, September 18, 1958. Land and Water Conservation Fund to develop the Ice Age 12. Raymond Zillmer to M. W. Torkelson, June 16, 1942. Raymond T. Zillmer Papers. 13. Raymond Zillmer to Julius P. Hell, April 30, 1942, Raymond T. Zillmer Papers. Trail by providing grants to state agencies and the Ice Age 14. Raymond Zillmer to Milwaukee Journal, March 18, 1959, Raymond T. Zillmer Park and Trail Foundation.' Papers. 15. Raymond Zillmer to Guido Rahr, January 23, 1958, Raymond T. Zillmer Papers.

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Jim Staudacher Backpackers Lucas (left) and Rose Marian Staudacher on the Scuppernong section of Ice Age Trail near Eagle (1979)

16. Raymond Zillmer to Stanton W. Mead, July 8, 1959, Raymond T. Zillmer Papers. arrangements, see Sally Fairfax, "Federal-state cooperation in outdoor recreation pol­ 17. Raymond Zillmer to Fred F. Anderson, December 18, 1958, Raymond T. Zillmer icy formation: The case of the Appalachian Trail," PhD thesis, Duke University, 1973. Papers. 35. Nathaniel P. Reed, "'Why Watt Must Go," Not Man Apart 11 (1981), 10, as cited in 18. Jerome Roltgen to Raymond Zillmer, January 9, 1959, Raymond T. Zillmer Papers. Roderick F. Nash, Wilderness and the American Mind, 4th ed. (New Haven, CT: Yale Uni­ 19. Raymond Zillmer to Stanton W. Mead, June 26, 1959, Raymond T. Zillmer Papers. versity Press, 2001). 336. 20. Stanton W. Mead to Raymond Zillmer, July 1, 1959, Raymond T. Zillmer Papers. 36. Established in 1964, the LWCF began as a means to protect land for recreation, 21. Wisconsin Department of Research Development, "Report on Tourism in Wis­ open space, and wildlife habitat. Informadon in this paragraph came from an inter­ consin," (1960), Raymond T. Zillmer Papers. view with Tom Gilbert, Superintendent, Ice Age National Scenic Trail, National Park 22. Stanton W. Mead to Raymond Zillmer, July 1, 1959, Raymond T Zillmer Papers. Service, February 28, 2006. 23. Raymond Zillmer to O.J. Falge, September 11, 1958, Raymond T. Zillmer Papers. 37. Aldo Leopold, A Sand County Almanac (1949; repr., London: Oxford University 24. Raymond Zillmer, Letter to the Editor, Milwaukee Journal, September 11, 1958. Press, 1970), 173. 25. Raymond Zillmer to Walter E. Scott, January 29, 1959, Raymond T Zillmer Papers. The Conservation Department was the predecessor of today's Department of Natural Resources. 26. Leo Diederich quoted in Antigo Daily Journal, August 13, 1958. 27. George F. Blackburn to Raymond Zillmer, August 11, 1960, Raymond T. Zillmer About the Author Papers. 28. Henry Reuss, "Let's Have a Moraine National Park in Wisconsin," Speech in the House of Representatives, August 5, 1958, Congressional Record, 85th Congress, 2nd Sarah Mittlefehldt is a PhD student in forestry and environ­ session. Reuss worked with Zillmer to develop this proposal, and they argued that mental studies at the University of Wisconsin-Madison. She "Wisconsin is 1 in 4 states in the Union which has no national park, yet Wisconsin offers more natural advantages for recreation than most other States." received her bachelor's degree from 29. Raymond Zillmer to Milwaukee Journal, November 29, 1960, Raymond T. Zillmer Carleton College and her master's Papers. 30. Andrew Hanson, interview, February 23, 2006; Tim Malzhan, interview, March 2, degree from Harvard University. She 2006. has enjoyed volunteering on Ice Age 31. Henry Reuss, Milwaukee Sentinel, March 8, 1959. 32. Henry Reuss, On the Trail ojthe Ice Age: A Hiker's and Biker's Guide to Wisconsin's Ice Trail projects but is now living in Virginia Age National Scientific Reserve and Trail (Milwaukee, Wl: Milwaukee Public Museum, with her husband John. She is currently 1976), 15. 33. Gaylord Nelson, interview by Edmund Garvey, David Sherman, and Ronald Tip- working on her dissertation which man, December 12, 1983. Quoted in Charles H. W. Foster, The Appalachian National explores the social and environmental Scenic Trail: A Time to be Bold (Harpers Ferry, WV: Appalachian Trail Conference, history of the Appalachian Trail. 1987), 15. 34. Tom Gilbert, Superintendent, Ice Age National Scenic Trail, National Park Ser­ vice, interview, February 28, 2006. For a more thorough discussion of these complex

14 www.wisconsinhistory.org ^e Suminer My 1,000 Mile Hike on the Ice Age Trail

by James Staudacher

I got the idea to backpack the Ice Age Trail during the late sum­ moraines. I traversed forests and prairie, oak savanna and north mer of 1978. Curiosity about the geology of the Niagara Escarp­ woods. Along the trail I encountered many people who made their ment led me to read about the last Ice Age, and I discovered that its living out-of-doors immersed in the weather and in the ice-sculpted effects were most pronounced in Wisconsin. I read about Raymond terrain of Wisconsin. The people I met lived close to the land and Zillmer, originator of the dream of Ice Age preservation, and learned close to the rhythms of nature—they knew the secrets of the of Wisconsin Congressman - essence of life in Wisconsin's Henry Reuss s effort to preser glacial landscape. I met farmers, unique Ice Age features. I found"! ^ ^ ,•'" laborers, newspapermen, teach­ soft-cover book by Reuss, On fhe -jiS"'.. . "'. f-»'M* . 't er" jj era, truck drivers, philosophers, Trail of the Ice Age, in the Mil- ••._ 1 environmentalists, fishermen, w/aukee Public Museum book- ' .^ and cops; all were kind and gen­ shop, which would become my ^ erous people who were not afflu­ bible on the trail. •• ent by most standards, but were I became enamored of ti prosperous in the richness of challenge of long distance hiking their lives. At the same time, they and contacted Henry ReussJi were not without their challenges congressional office in MilwaukJ and day-to-day tribulations. I saw to outline a plan to become the ^ '^t-hand the scourges of alco- first person to walk the Ice Age >_ '/ olism, mental illness, and Trail. I enthusiastically summa- ft.'d^. _ -^ domestic violence. rized a scheme to backpack the ^ ICE AGE As I traveled, I also faced entire trail route—defined and many challenges of my own. undefined —over land thi TRAILI Backpacking teaches the traveler included a hiking trail and on-roc..;^ to focus on the immediate and biking trail. I would walk alone, real as it strips away pretense sleep under the stars, explore and V -/T and instills humility. I was quickly map uncharted territory; no doubt ^ reminded that spring returns life crossing the paths of ancient to its essential elements. The explorers and voyageurs at every ^. hoards of mosquitoes and black turn, promoting the Ice Age park <' flies all along the route as well as and trail concept across Wiscon­ - ' I a lack of fresh water were small sin. Reuss's congressional assis- -^ annoyances I dealt with every tant Sara Sykes and I worked out day. Then one day there was a the practical details, including a • ^ bigger challenge. In a swamp in route timeline and a schedule of .^ the backwoods of Marathon general delivery mail supply drof ^ i\ County's Leathercamp Forest that I would pick up in towns" ..-''•''•' northwest of Shantytown, I was along the way. :• attacked by a pack of wild dogs. The preceding winter of -. yji:/ L ; :.,^"^ I survived by killing one of them 1978-1979 was brutal. Huge bli with a piece of firewood. That zards came week after week and WHi Image ID 45348 gruesome experience haunts my never seemed to let up so when Jim Staudacher hiked thethe entiree length of the Ice Age TrailTrail dreams to this day. the snow continued into April I got during the summer ojof 19799 when he was twenty. The tale of my 1,000-mile worried. I had planned to embark backpack of the Ice Age Trail is on a walking journey in mid-May that, as far as I could tell, no one one of adventure, hard work and success through perseverance. had ever accomplished before. I was not sure how many miles I'd Not just for me, the vagabond, but also for the inhabitants of Wis­ travel, or how long it would take. I thought it prudent to start as soon consin, the good people of strong character who were fortunate to as spring arrived, but I was not confident the winter's record snow­ live in a rich glacial landscape three quarters of the way through the fall would be melted by then. Spring eventually arrived and on a twentieth century. Preserving their legacy for the future is what my crystal clear, warm and sunny day in May 1979, near Sturgeon Bay hike and the Ice Age Trail and Reserve Units are all about. in northeastern Wisconsin, I shouldered my backpack and became the Ice Age Man. James J. Staudacher became the first person to walk the Ice That summer I walked more than 1,000 miles of overland hiking Age Trail at age 20 in 1979. He is currently a writer/photographer trails and back roads, following the interlobate and terminal and a full time police detective in Whitefish Bay, Wisconsin.

SPRING 2007 WHS Rare Pamphlet 93- 3058 Superoversize Front cover of the second annual Elkhart Lake Road Race Official Program (1951). Each summer from 1950 to 1952, racers sped around the twisty curves of the village's county roads. WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

Courtesy of Peter Laun A young Phil Hill emerged victorious in a Jaguar C-Type in the 1952 Sheldon Cup and placed fourth in the main race. Hill became an international racing champion in the 1960s.

Burning Up the Lake Racing on Elkhart Lake's Historic Road Circuit

by Peter Laun

n 1950, the village of Elkhart Lake was in an economic enjoy the revenue, publicity, and tourism the event would slump. The local canning company had closed, and the create. They scheduled the first race for July 23, 1950, and J local summer resorts, which opened in late spring and Elkhart Lake was poised to become a participant in a brief closed in early fall, were drawing fewer tourists than in years renaissance of road racing. past. The village badly needed something exciting to encour­ Designated as a regional event, the press did not give the age visitors and revitalize its economy. Although it was home race much attention. This was deliberate, as the village and to fewer than 600 residents, the tiny town in Sheboygan the organizers wanted to use the first road race as a trial run County was selected to host a regional sports car race organ­ for future races to ensure that a larger event could be safe and ized by the Chicago Region of the Sports Car Club of Amer­ successful. The course itself was 3.35 miles in length, did not ica (SCCA). Jim Kimberly of Neenah and Chicago, and C. go through the village, and was a real challenge for the driv­ Bayard Sheldon and Fred Wacker of Chicago, flew over the ers. Traveling that course today, it's hard to imagine racing region in search of an appropriate site for a road race. They past the deep ditches and under the trees that line both sides saw the terrain and configuration of roads from a height of of the road. about 2000 feet, landed in nearby Plymouth, and headed for The start and finish line was on County P, midway between Elkhart. They met with James Johnson, the local banker; Ray County JP and where it joined County J. The officials' stand Kramer, the fire chief; Paul Just, village president; Ed Lev- consisted of a card table and a few chairs. Conforming to FIA erenz, golf course owner; Everett Nametz, a local businessman; (Federation Internationale de I'Automobile) rules, the cars and Mrs. OUie Moeller, owner of Siebken Hotel—all of whom traveled in a clockwise direction, instead of the "customary were involved either with the Elkhart Lake Businessmen's American counter-clockwise manner."^ To avoid FIA sanc­ Association or the Elkhart Lake Chamber of Commerce.'^ tion, should they wish to hold another event, the organizers The SCCA and the Businessmen's Association came to a decided to comply with the international regulation. mutually beneficial agreement. The SCCA had found an Six races were planned for the one-day event. It was excellent course for their road races, and Elkhart Lake would announced that this would ". . . be the first race of its kind to

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: _ ELKHART LAKE ROAD RACES 'C START and FINISH LINE

Courtesy of Peter Laun The 1951 finish line located at the Elkhart Lake feed mill. Driving a Cunningham, John Fitch takes first place in the feature race. be held in the Middle West since the last Elgin National race at Elgin, Illinois in 1933." Although stock car racing and racetrack events were widely popular in 1950, road races had become almost extinct since World War I. Road races were highly dangerous; moreover, local citizens often protested the noise, the crowds, and the lost use of the roads, and promot­ ers preferred enclosed tracks so they could charge admis­ sion.^ Nevertheless, Americans upheld the tradition abroad, participating in European road races between the wars.^ In the 1930s, the small Automobile Racing Club of America held several road races, but then suspended the club for the duration of World War II.'' The SCCA was founded in 1944 as a vintage car appreciation club, not a racing club. How­ ever, in 1948, it revitalized road racing when it held an event in Watkins Glen, New York.° Elkhart Lake was one SCCA event among several that began in the late 1940s and early a car that had been destined for the junkyard during WW II. 1950s—but the only one in the Midwest. However, he discovered that it would cost more to haul it to The first race was a 30-mile event for novices in cars with the junkyard than he would get for it as scrap, so he left it in smaller engines (under ISOOcc's). Driving a Simca, Larry a garage and later restored it. Whiting won the race with a time of 33 minutes and 30.1 sec­ The main event was a 60-mile race for experts, "... open onds. The second 30-mile race was for novices driving cars to drivers who have finished at least 10 miles in an organized with engines over 1500cc's. Ted Boynton won it in 28 minutes road race, including the two preceding events." Jim Kim­ and 58.4 seconds driving an MG-TC.^ berly won, driving a 166 Ferrari Barchetta, in a time of 56 A 15-mile ladies' race ran both engine sizes at the same time. minutes, 13.2 seconds. Second-place Fred Wacker drove The winning car was a Healy Silverstone owned by Jim Kim­ Kimberly's Healy Silverstone. Wacker completed the event in berly and driven by Sally Chapin. Chapin, who won with a 57 minutes, 12.2 seconds. time of 15 minutes, 3 seconds, was a pilot who had ". . . flown Fortunately for the future prospects of the event, the races two-motor planes for the WASPs during World War II. . . and had no major incidents or injuries, although one car went off [was] chief pilot for a corporation operating six planes the road and had to be pulled out of the woods. ^ The first for executive transportation." '^ Mrs Corwith event was everything the organizers and the village had Hamill came in second, driving a Mercury-Allard. hoped it would be. Even though the free race did not make a The fourth and fifth events were combined, a profit, it brought an estimated 5,000'^ spectators "to watch race followed by a Concours d'Elegance (compe­ 26 gentlemen drivers flash over a tricky road course." Vil­ tition of elegance), with the cars touring the lage hotel rooms were packed, local businesses were benefit­ course afterward to be judged on their appearance. ing, and the papers were filled with positive publicity. William Hayssen of Elkhart Lake drove his 1916 Winton, William Leonard, columnist for the Chicago Tribune,

18 www.wisconsinhistory.org WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

Carlo-type rally open to all. The Monte Carlo rally was a test of endurance and precision: drivers coming across the coun­ try estimated their average speed and arrival times at pre­ selected check points along the way. Without breaking any local laws or speed limits, the driver whose average speed and finish time came closest to the estimate would win. Any type of car could win and, as the SCCA member entry form invited, "Member Gerald Gudgeon, Mrs. Gudgeon and the kids in the Nippy Austin Seven now can battle it out on even terms with Cardan Shaft, Esq . . . driving his Hall Scott Invader-powered 'Golden Frazer.' '16

ars that raced in the 1950s were, for the most part, driven to and from the event by their owners—unlike Ctoday, when they usually arrive on trailers or in semi- trucks. Almost all the entries for the 1951 event were driven to Elkhart from as far away as West Palm Beach, Florida, and Santa Monica, California. All cars in the rally were scheduled to arrive at Elkhart Lake on Saturday, August 25, between 9:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m., and check in at a mobile imitation Swiss chalet provided by the Schlitz Brewery of Milwaukee. William Leonard of the Chicago Tribune declared, "Farmers in the northern part of Sheboygan County, Wis., put their crops in several weeks early this year, so they could get them out of the ground before the last week in August, when a lot of city slickers are going to be trampling down the herbage all around Elkhart Lake." The only parking areas for cars, beside the village, were in the farm fields surrounding the course. The race course required over 2,000 hay bales on

WHS Rare Pamphlet 93- 3058 Superoversize Course map of the road races from the 1951 official program. The program does not reflect the last-minute changes, which moved the start/finish line to the feed mill and extended the course further to the right down County P until it intersected County J, skipping County JP and "Tlie Hard Right," "Brigg's Bend," "Peck's Alley," and "Ted's Turn." reported that "... the chamber of commerce handed [the SCCA] the keys to the city."'^ To aid the promotion of the event, the organizers named sections of the road for the participants: "The Wacker Wend" was named for Fred Wacker; "Kimberly's Korner" for James Kimberly; and "Brigg's Bend," "Peck's Alley," and "HamiU's Hollow" for other 1950 race entrants. The aptly named "Hard Left," the most difficult turn in the course, was a quick left turn at the bottom of a hill in town at Siebkens corner.

Planning for another race in 1951 began almost immedi­ Courtesy of Peter Laun ately and was set for August 25 and 26. The race would grow Jim Kimberly seated in his Ferrari at the Osthoff Hotel (1951). in scope, becoming a national event for SCCA members Kimberly spearheaded the movement to hold road races in from all over the United States. Included was a Monte Elkhart Lake and won the main race in 1950.

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James Johnson (white shirt), local banker and race organizer and promoter, before the 1951 races

Courtesy of Peter Laun Tlie Slianty Town hamburger stand (1952) is the site of today's historical marker.

20 www.wisconsinhistor y.o WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY the corners to cushion any errant race car and would hope­ August 24, it was now 6.4 miles long, eliminated the JP sec­ fully protect the nearby spectators as well. They were donated tion, and instead went all the way along County P to the She­ by area farmers with the proviso that the organizers had to boygan County Marsh, where it turned right onto County J pay for any damaged bales. and headed back into the village. The start and finish line was The Milwaukee Journal anticipated a crowd of 50,000, moved to the feed mill, as were the pits. The only journalist and special trains were provided to bring many of them to to report this last minute change was Walter Pfister of The and from the races on the Milwaukee Road. Eighty-five Sheboygan Press, who just happened to have a cottage on the National Guard volunteers stationed throughout the area at lake and scooped everyone. intersections and driveways along the course, as well as nine railroad policemen and men from a Sheboygan Naval unit he weekend began with the Monte Carlo Rally on Sat­ provided crowd control. The Plymouth, Kiel, and Elkhart urday, August 25. The winner was Morgan Sinclaire Lake fire departments were on duty, first aid was provided by from Santa Monica, California, who had driven a five doctors, and three ambulances stood by. It was estimated Mercury-Allarr d more than 2000 miles with his wife and two that 400 of Elkhart Lake's 570 residents were working at the children. He underestimated the trip's total time by only 177 event as well. ' Organizers used a mobile radio unit, assisted minutes, a remarkably close guess considering the distance by the Milwaukee Amateurs Club, Inc., to coordinate the and the fact that he had to factor in his family's rest stops. ° efforts of the personnel. The Saturday night race was a Concours d'Elegance, with The only direct income for the village came from the con­ the cars touring the circuit Sunday morning. William cession stands and the sale of programs (twenty-five cents in Leonard of the Tribune reported: 1950, and fifty cents in 1951). Individual spectators were not charged for attendance, although there was a dollar charge . . . one evening the cool clean air of the little town which cus­ for parking in the nearby fields. Of course, the influx of spec­ tomarily hears nothing more musical or noisy than the out­ tators left the villagers and local businesses with fatter pock­ put of dance bands and entertainers who play this Wisconsin ets, and again, Elkhart Lake benefited from the publicity. outpost of the Wisconsin Borscht circuit, bore instead the When the programs for the race were printed, it wheezing and coughing of gas buggies built more than 35 included a map of the course that showed a 5.3 mile years ago, and the music of a rustic band playing for square circuit using the County JP section from 1950. dancers cavorting on the pavement of the town square. The pre-race publicity also showed the start and finish line at Elm Street and the pits along Lake The next day the main street was barricaded on either side Street. The course, however, was expanded at the with snow fences and became part of a race course. Satur­ last moment. Reported for the first time on Friday, day's alto beep of squeeze bulb horns . . . gave way to Sun-

Courtesy of Peter Laun Jim Kimberly with passenger Fred Wacker, another race organizer and early winner (1950).

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Courtesy of Peter Laun Photo by Peter Laun When David Felix lost control at the Lake Street corner during the Today Show's Dave Garroway (standing) consults novice race in 1951, his Cadillac-Allard collided with haybales with his mechanic and driver, Frank Botts (1951). and had to be towed. This incident, the only one of that race, knocked him out of competition. day's yelp of dres on the sporty specials whipping thru ago­ He swerved "to avoid people at the edge of the road, and ran nizing S curves at the very spot where the street dances had into a telephone pole."22 done their reels and waltzes the night before. Snow fencing was not enough to keep spectators from wan­ dering too close to the track during the races. Milton Traer of Dave Garroway, host of the Today Show, then broadcast Chicago wrote a letter to Road and Track magazine in Decem­ from Chicago, was entered in the novice race. However, ". . . ber, 1951, examining the danger. "The crowds' only desire he was in a television show in New York Saturday night and seemed to be to fight amongst themselves for the privilege of arrived by plane early Sunday morning. The rules committee being hit and spread eagled on a radiator. Crowd control and disqualified him because lack of sleep would handicap him as designated areas should be provided—if not it may result in . . . a driver."'^'^ As a result, mechanic Frank Botts drove Gar- that unfortunate time when one regrettable accident may spell roway's XK-120-powered SS100 Jaguar. hnis to one of the finest and most colorful amateur sports this Roger Wing, of Bethesda, Maryland, won the novice race country has seen."'^^ In 1952, his words would seem prophetic. on Sunday in ajaguar XK-120 with a time of 30 minutes, 3.4 Aerial observation estimated attendance at 50,000. No seconds. In second place was Frank Botts in Garroway's exact count was possible and some estimates almost doubled Jaguar with a time of 30 minutes, 6.6 seconds. The only inci­ that number of spectators. Some attendees, however, were dent during the novice race was when David Felix, driving not impressed, including Wade Mosby of the Milwaukee his Cadillac-Allard, spun at the Lake Street corner, hit the Journal. He wrote, "If all the aching backs in Elkhart Lake hay bales near the bank, and bent his fenders into his tires, had been laid end to end Sunday, it would have been a chi­ knocking him out of the competition.^ ropractors' field day. The thousands of spectators who lined The ladies' race was cancelled because of threatening the village streets to watch the midwest's biggest sports car weather, and the organizers decided to hold the main event races were forbidden to sit down. This was intended to give instead. (Unfortunately, the spectators were unable to see them the advantage of a standing start in case an errant pilot Sally Chapin race again as she had in 1950.) The feature Cadillac-Allard started to chase them.""^^ race was won by John Fitch of White Plains, New York, driv­ Other spectators admired the intangible qualities of the ing a Cunningham, with a time of 2 hours, 30 minutes, 19.1 races. In a letter to the Milwaukee Journal, George Haydon seconds. His average speed was 81 mph. Mike Graham, of of Milwaukee wrote, "To me the spirit of the race meet was Los Angeles, came in second, driving a Cadillac-Allard, with symbolized in the answer given by the driver of ajaguar who, a time of 2 hours, 32 minutes, 19.1 seconds. Third and fourth upon pulling into Victory lane, was asked why he didn't places went to Phil Hill and Pedro Malbrand, both driving remove the heavy leather extra passenger seat. 'Because it is Jaguar XK-120 specials. The only major incident occurred not sportsmanship' was the reply. To that Jaguar, which when Henry Szmota, Long Island, New York, suffered a frac­ crossed the finish line but a few minutes after the winner, goes tured leg, broken arm, and concussion at Pine Point corner. my acclaim for the day . . ."^^

22 www.wisconsinhistory.org WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

Courtesy of Peter Laun The 1951 Concourse D'Elegance showcased classic cars of all ages, makes, and models.

The race of 1951 had been a success; optimism reigned, end of September 7.^ This time, however, the Monte Carlo and plans were made for another event in 1952. Bayard Shel­ Rally would conclude on Friday, September 5. A ladies' race don declared that ". . . this is the greatest place we've ever and a novice race were initially scheduled on Saturday, but been and it is going to be the biggest race ever held . . . the the ladies event was cancelled and replaced by a three-hour course is not too tricky and it is safe.""^^ Sheldon was in practice session. (One woman, Virginia Schleicher, was charge of acquiring ground and accident insurance coverage among the fifty-seven cars that began in the Kimberly Cup for the races and would later change his opinion. on Sunday morning, but placed at only twenty-six out of the In early spring 1952, the SCCA set the race for the week­ twenty-nine drivers who finished.)\2 8

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Courtesy of Peter Laun Courtesy of Peter Laun The "Hard Left," a quick left turn at the bottom of the hill In 1952, William Taylor lost control of his MG-TD at the "Hard at Siebkens corner in the town proper, was the site of Left," hitting eight spectators. Safety concerns raised by his crash an accident in 1952. contributed to the end of this type of American road racing.

Elkhart Lake was now being called "the Indianapolis Speed­ announced that they would be using the race as a simulated way of County trunks."^^ The Sheboygan Press predicted an civil defense emergency.' New additions included motor- attendance of 100,000, then 125,000, for the 1952 race.^O As a boat ambulances standing by for emergencies. The head of result, the publicity made the village seem to be an ideal place the Strategic Air Command, General Curtis Lemay, also for manufacturers to display their new cars. General Motors came to Elkhart, although he did not publicize his presence. announced that they would send their experimental Buick XP- Later, he would be instrumental in allowing sports cars to 300. Insured for one million dollars, it was, in all respects, a race on airstrips in the 1950s.'" show-stopper.^ For the first time, WTMJ-TV planned to tele­ Following Friday's Monte Carlo Rally and a practice ses­ vise the event, however, "because it will be physically impossible sion early the next morning, Saturday's 15-lap Sheldon Cup, to make it a 'live' show, the portions of the races of special inter­ for cars 1950-4000cc's, was 97.5 miles in length. Phil Hill won est will be filmed and presented over WTMJ later."^-^ in the C-Type Jaguar with a time of 1 hour, 4 minutes, 10 sec­ onds. He also set the fastest lap record with a speed of 93.5 ^ M 9 hile almost everyone in Elkhart Lake prepared for mph. Second place went to Phil Walters, driving a Ferrari, %mWg the races, one resident was trying his best to stop who came in 56 seconds behind Hill. George Weaver won W W them. Werner Markwitz, an examiner for the third place in the other C-Type. The Saturday events con­ State Securities Department and a lake property owner, cluded with an evening Concours d'Elegance of classic cars. objected to the road closings for the races. In 1951, he had The first race on Sunday was the 97.5-mile Kimberly Cup tried unsuccessfully to convince the county to stop the races, for cars under 1950cc's. The winner was William Spear of but the officials took no action. Southport, Connecticut, driving an Italian O.S.C.A. After 1951, Markwitz objected again, this time pointing His time was 1 hour, 28 minutes, 10.2 seconds. out that it was a violation of the Wisconsin State Constitu­ The Kimberly Cup race was marred by an inci­ tion, which forbade closing public roads for private purposes. dent that drew more sensational headlines than In 1952, Markwitz wrote to the State Highway Commission the races themselves. William Taylor, driving an the Thursday before race weekend protesting. The Commis­ MG-TD, lost control on the "Hard Left" at sion acknowledged receipt of the letter, but took no action Siebkens corner on Lake Street. Losing control, he because the three commissioners were away for the weekend. hit the hay bales on the right, slid to the left, and A similar appeal to the Motor Vehicle Department likewise crashed through a snow fence at Osthoff Hotel, where he hit produced no effect. At that point, the races would go on as eight spectators and a light pole. No one was seriously hurt, scheduled, but the later events of 1952 would change the sit­ but this accident would contribute to the end of this type of uation in Markwitz's favor. road racing in America. In 1952, all the volunteers from the year before returned, The main race was the 201.5-mile Elkhart Lake Cup for including the Milwaukee Radio Amateur Club, which cars 1950cc's and larger. It would again be a contest among

24 www.wisconsinhistory.org WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY the best drivers from 1951. Briggs Cunningham brought three newer and lighter race cars for himself, John Fitch, and Phil Walters. Charles Hornburg, of Los Angeles, brought two new Jaguar C-Types for their first appearance in America, and Phil Hill and George Weaver would drive them. The Cunninghams were again the cars to beat, but, with John Fitch driving, no one came close. He won in 2 hours, 16 min­ utes, 13.4 seconds. The next two places went to Phil Walters and Briggs Cunningham. Fourth and fifth went to Phil Hill and George Weaver in the C-Type Jaguars. The estimated crowd was 125,000-150,000^7 and, because no one had been seriously hurt, the event was declared a success. The Taylor accident, however, had made Bayard Sheldon nervous. He was correct in thinking that another accident like Taylor's could kill someone. Two weeks later, at an event at Watkins Glen, New York, a race car spun into a crowd of spectators and killed a young boy. Safety had This Hoffman Motor Car Company advertisement for the now become the primary concern, and many newspapers Jaguar XK-120 and the Mark VII appeared in the began calling for an end to street racing. official program of the 1951 race. Although a date for another race at Elkhart Lake had been tentatively set for September 12 and 13, 1953, at least counties that had already hosted such events, therefore bar­ one of the organizers. Bayard Sheldon, was concerned about ring other counties from holding their own races. During the the safety of road racing. According to Sheldon's recollec­ hearings on the bill in Madison, individuals from Elkhart tions, he called Governor Kohler sometime in the fall of 1952 Lake and Sheboygan County testified in favor of the passage and asked him to stop the races. Sheldon remembers that of the bill but ran into opposition from Stuart Wright, the Kohler referred the problem to Attorney General Vernon manager of the Wisconsin AAA. He believed that "all motor Thomson who told the governor that the races were indeed vehicle races should be confined to 'controlled' race unconstitutional because they closed public roads for a pri- tracks."^^ The legislative Committee on Highways agreed, vate event. probably for safety reasons and to avoid using publicly- In January, Assembly member Fred Nuernberg of She­ funded highways for private events, and voted down the bill, boygan introduced a bill in the legislature calling for special ending road racing at Elkhart Lake. permission to hold the race. The wording of the bill made it Meanwhile the organizers in Elkhart Lake had begun impossible to pass because it only allowed races to be held in investigating the possibility of building a closed course north of the village. As early as March 1952, they had created a map with several possible configurations. The plans came to nothing, even after the defeat in the legislature. All the desig­ nated land was privately owned, and purchasing the land would have been cost-prohibitive. Nothing, other than the plans, survived. The first private race course in Wisconsin opened in 1953 at Wilmot, Kenosha County. Promoted by the SCCA, the 1.5-mile course was declared "The first of its kind in the United States, built specifically for sports cars."**^ Before long, however, the track closed and the area became a hous­ ing development. In November 1954, Clif Tufte, President of the Elkhart Moraine Sand and Gravel Company, proposed building a private circuit on company property. From Tufte's idea. Road America was born. In 1955, sports car racing returned to Courtesy of Peter Laun Elkhart Lake at a new and safer location—and the racetrack The first- and second-place Cunninghams from the at Road America has drawn fans and tourists to Elkhart Lake 1952 main race, driven by John Fitch and Phil Wcdters. ever since. IMI

SPRING 2007 25 WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

WHi Image ID 45545 After the end of road racing, businessman Clif Tufte helped to create Road America, Elkhart Lakers racetrack. Here, Dick Leppla qualifies in the 1977 Can-Am challenge, one of many prestigious events hosted at Road America,

Notes 33. Ibid., September 4, 1952. 1. Author interview with James Kimberly, 1987. Peter Laun, The History oJ the Elkhart 34. Chicago Tribune, September 14, 1952. Lake Road Races 1950-1952 {Elkhart Lake, Wl: 50th Anniversary of Road Racing at 35. Sheboygan Press, August 25, 1952. Elkhart Lake Committee, 2000), 5, states that Karl Brocken, an industrial engineer 36. Chicago Tribune, September 14, 1952; "Once Upon A Wire Wheel" {history of the from Chicago, was also in the airplane; Fred Wacker's account of the event lists Kim­ Chicago SCCA) http://www.scca-chicago.com/history/once2.html. berly, Wacker, Brocken, and Today Show host Dave Garroway in the airplane, but not 37. Sheboygan Press, September 8, 1952. Sheldon (Once Upon a Wire Wheel [History of the Chicago SCCA], http://www.scca- 38. Author interview with C. Bayard Sheldon, cited in Laun, The History of the Elkhart chicago.com/history/oncel.html). Lake Road Races, 24. 2. Sheboygan Press, ]u\y 8, 1950. Johnson, Kramer, Just, and Moeller were Business­ 39. Sheboygan Press, February 4, 1953. men's Association officers, Leverenz was a board member, and Nametz was an officer 40. Chicago Tribune,]u\y 26, 1953. of the Chamber of Commerce, at least in 1952. While the Businessmen's Association organized the races in 1950, the Chamber of Commerce took over in 1951 and 1952. The two boards had many members and officers in common; Just, Leverenz, Kramer, Johnson, and Moeller all appear on an officer list for the Chamber of Commerce in 1952 {Sheboygan Press, August 21, 1952). 3. Ibid., August 25, 1951. About the Author 4. Ibid., July 24, 1950. 5. Albert Bochroch, American Automobile Racing: An Illustrated History {New York: Viking Press, 1974), 87. Peter Laun, the article author and an 6. Ibid, see chapters 1-4. Between 1916, when the last original-series Vanderbilt Cup avid and knowledgeable local historian, was awarded for road racing, and 1948, when Watkins Glen, NY began to hold road races, the only American road races occurred sporadically in Elgin, IL, and irregu­ died suddenly on October 6, 2006. He larly in various West and East Coast locations. became interested in racing when he 7. Ibid, 122. was a child, and he took hundreds of 8. Ibid, 154-156. 9. Sheboygan Press,]u\Y 24, 1950 (winner's list for all 1950 races). photos of the three Elkhart Lake road 10. Ibid., August 25, 1951. races in 1950-1952, some of which ll.Ibid.,July 19, 1950. 12. Ibid., July 24, 1950. Sources do not agree on which driver went into the ditch; appear in his article. His historical work Laun cites Stephen Briggs, for whom the course's "Briggs Bend" was named, but the on the Elkhart Lake road races began in Sheboygan Press names Kurt Hildegrand. 13. Ibid., July 24, 1950. The Milwaukee Journal estimated the attendance as high as the 1980s, when he was "track historian" for Road America 15,000-20,000, but Laun, p.11 judges this to be an inflated number. and organized the racetrack's many boxes of old photographs, 14. Milwaukee Journal, March 29, 1951. 15. Chicago Tribune, July 31, 1951. articles, and assorted papers. Laun photographed, collected, 16. Sports Car Club of America {SCCA) member entry form, 1951. Cited in Laun, and wrote the history of Elkhart Lake for much of his life. A The History oJ the Elkhart Lake Road Races, 12. 17. Milwaukee Journal, August 26, 1951. graduate of Ripon College, he wrote many books and articles 18. Chicago Tribune, August 29, 1951. on a variety of village and Sheboygan County topics. A famil­ 19.Ibid. 20. Sheboygan Press, August 27, 1951. iar face at the Sheboygan County Historical Research Center, 21. Milwaukee Journal, August 27, 1951. Laun spent countless hours researching and preserving the 22. Sheboygan Press, August 27, 1951. 23. Road and Track Magazine, December 1951. history of the people and places around him. His desire to 24. Milwaukee Journal, August 27, 1951. record the past led him to garage sales, where he collected 25. Ibid., September 1, 1951. miscellany to fill gaps in local history, and to the public library, 26. Sheboygan Press, August 25, 1951. 27. Ibid., April 5, 1952. where he copied from microfilmed newspapers any event that 28. Ibid., September 8, 1952; Chicago Tribune September 8, 1952. seemed interesting or important. His collections, photo­ 29. Ibid., August 25, 1952. 30. Ibid., May 29, 1952; Sheboygan Press, August 29, 1953. graphs, and papers have been donated to the Sheboygan 31. Ibid., September 4, 1952. County Historical Research Center. 32. Ibid., September 3, 1952.

26 www.wisconsinhistory.orj Elkhart Lake Road Races on the State and the National Register of Historic Places by Spencer Chappie

The suspension of open road racing in 1953 was not the end of sports car-related activities in the village of Elkhart Lake. The con­ Courtesy of Peter Laun struction of Road America meant that the village continued as a cen­ ter for sports car enthusiasts. Concours events were often held on John Fitch arrives at the 2006 dedication ceremony celebrating the very streets where sports cars had raced in the 1950s. The the National Register of Historic Places designation. events frequently included police-escorted reenactment tours of the Fitch is driving the Jaguar C-Type in which Phil Hill won the historic circuits, and many car clubs conducted both formal and 1952 Sheldon Cup. informal tours. Although historic open road race circuits around the country succumbed one after the other to urban development, it September 2004, and in consideration of the negotiation required, never occurred to anyone that the Elkhart Lake historic race circuits the county withdrew its request for federal funding. This ended the might someday follow. Section 106 proceeding. However, that all changed in January 2003, when the Sheboygan Termination of the 106 process meant that HRC needed another County Highway Department announced that anticipated population way to preserve the race circuits. In 2002, the historic open road growth justified a $700,000 project to reconstruct a county road race circuits located in Watkins Glen, New York, had been pre­ that was part of the race circuits. The project called for straighten­ served by obtaining listing as a historic site on the State and the ing, widening, and leveling the road, changing its historic character. National Register of Historic Places, under similar circumstances. Broad-based opposition to the project sprang up immediately. Following the example of Watkins Glen, HRC sponsored and Throughout 2003, the opposition circulated petitions and filed funded the nomination of the Elkhart Lake Open Road Race Circuits protests with the County Transportation Committee and the County for inclusion in the Wisconsin Register of Historic Places. On Sep­ Board of Supervisors, but the highway department continued with tember 23, 2005, the historic circuits were listed on the Wisconsin its plan. By the spring of 2004, the highway department began State Register and declared eligible for listing on the National Reg­ removing trees along the right-of-way to prepare for construction the ister. On February 17, 2006, they were listed on the National Reg­ following summer. Protests escalated in March, when the Road ister of Historic Places, joining Watkins Glen as the only other America Board of Directors voted and approved a resolution ". . . to historic open road race circuit so designated. preserve and protect the original road configuration." In April, the The HRC then implemented a fundraising plan to erect thirteen Milwaukee Region SCCA (Sports Car Club of America) asked the roadside historical markers around the village and race circuits and county to halt the project. a Wisconsin State Historical marker near the 1951-52 Start-Finish Although the highway department had been advised of the exis­ Line in the village. The first donor to sponsor one of the roadside tence of the race circuits, they seemed indifferent to the requests for markers was Tom Hollfelder, a well-known vintage racer who owned preservation. To address this problem, a small group of preserva­ a summer home on Elkhart Lake. Tom had a great enthusiasm for tion-minded sports car enthusiasts formed Historic Race Circuits of preservation as well as racing and soon joined the HRC operating Elkhart Lake (HRC), a non-profit historic preservation organization. committee. By February 2006, sufficient funds had been raised to Founding members were retired businessman Spencer Chappie, purchase the historical markers and the finished markers were local architect Mark Pfaller 11, farm implement dealer Clyde Morter, installed by the HRC in early July. and Road America president George Bruggenthies. At the urging of Tom Hollfelder, the HRC planned a dedication The HRC soon discovered that the county's funding plan ceremony to coincide with the 2006 vintage racing activities sched­ included the federal highway money, which meant that the project uled for the second weekend in July. The dedication ceremony July fell under the provisions of the National Historic Preservation Act 13, 2006, was as memorable as the races. The event drew the cars adopted by Congress to prevent the destruction of historically sig­ and the racers who had sped around the course over fifty years ear­ nificant structures and sites. Early in 2004, acting on behalf of HRC, lier. The victory of the HRC is a prime example of how a group of Road America filed a formal request for Determination of Eligibility concerned and dedicated people can organize to preserve their for the historic circuits under the Preservation Act. In July 2004, the local heritage. historic circuits were declared eligible for preservation and all con­ struction activity was suspended. Spencer Chappie is a retired business man who has followed Once the historic race circuits were declared eligible, a process sports car racing since the early 1950s. He and his wife Lois have of mitigation began under Section 106 of the Historic Preservation attended races at Road America for more than forty years. For the Act. Section 106 required the highway department to seek public past twelve years they have spent their summers in Elkhart Lake and input and to negotiate with interested parties, including HRC. In their winters in Pebble Beach, CA. Their children and grandchildren February 2005, after gathering input at a public meeting held in all live in Elkhart Lake.

SPRING 2007 27 ^. ON TO MONTEZUMA'S HALLS The Story of Alexander Conze

by John Zimm

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u^^i^' WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

isconsin was two years away from becoming a state when war broke out Wwith Mexico in April 1846. During that time, voters in the territory debated two state consti­ tutions, rejecting the first in the spring of 1847, and approving the second in March 1848. Migrants from eastern states and foreign countries were settling in the territory, building lives and businesses, farms and communities, and creating local governments across the state. In the spring of 1846, most future Wiscon­ WHi Image ID 2935 WHi Image ID 45352 sinites had, in their estimation, more important things William R. Smith, Adjutant James K. Polk, the eleventh General of the Wisconsin President of the United States, to do than to go to war with Mexico. However, a Militia fi-om 1839 to 185T whose actions helped turn the small group of young men, looking for adventure and became the state's attorney and dispute over Texas into a helped reorganize the State military conflict. the chance to see and experience the exotic, were will­ Historical Society, serving as its ing to offer their services. president from 1854 until his resignation in 1861. Among those who were eager to join the army was Alexander Conze. Born in 1819 in Biickeburg, Hanover, he spent time at the universities in Leipzig and Jena where he Deutsch-Athen a decade later, but a nascent German culture studied botany and philology, before immigrating to the was already taking shape and getting attention by the mid- United States in 1845. After settling in Milwaukee, Conze 1840s. Hundreds of Germans every week were arriving in opened a school where he gave lessons in German and Eng­ Milwaukee by 1843, but the majority of them were only pass­ lish, and discovered a colorful community of friends with ing through the city on their way to farms in the interior whom he drank and discussed politics and philosophy." regions of the upper Midwest. Many of those who settled in Among these friends were some influential people like Dr. the city were "craftsmen, manual laborers, tradesmen, [and] Francis Huebschmann, who received a medical degree from occasional professionals," men who did not have the wealth Jena University in 1841 and immigrated to Milwaukee a year or the know-how to farm. However among the German set­ later; and Moritz Schoeffler, editor of the German-language tlers was a contingent of educated, and sometimes wealthy, newspaper the Wisconsin Banner.^ One early historian, men who began to create the social and cultural institutions Rudolph Koss, who had contact with some of Conze's that would provide a structure for the preservation of Ger­ friends, wrote that "Conze far surpassed the majority of his man culture and language. local contemporaries intellectually and but few understood The Harbor Festival held March 22, 1843 marked the him, although he was one of the most lovable friends and had emergence of the Milwaukee Germans as a community, and no enemies." Conze appeared to be a popular man in his several of its members formed a procession that wound its adopted home, and he once wrote to his mother that he was, way through the streets of Milwaukee carrying banners and "respected by my fellow citizens and beloved by my pupils." ^ accompanied by German bands in addition to a militia unit The Milwaukee in which Conze settled was not the pre­ led by Captain Heinrich Ludwig. The Germans again dominantly German city that would be known as the came out in force to celebrate the Fourth of July that year and to show solidarity with other immigrant groups, including the Irish, another notable group in the city. Other German social activities were occurring with regularity, such as the i^coHi^iu-v^auacr*- dances at Ludwig's Garden and the Adler Hotel. •^ By 1844, in addition to its German language newspaper, the Wiscon­ sin Banner, Milwaukee had a German elementary school, Wisconsin Banner and numerous political and social functions that caused 77ie Wisconsin Banner, Milwaukee's first German language Rudolph Koss to exclaim, "Scarcely was one excitement over newspaper, was started in 1844 with the help of than another one had arrived; there was always something Francis Huebschmann.

30 www.wisconsinhistory.org WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY important doing."'-^ Truly, by 1845 it could be said that, g^rifc&auf bc§ SSejtenS 66I)ne, "[t]he small seed of German Americanism . . . had grown . . . S)ie gi^r baS (^elc nic^t fd't, into a strong full-branched tree the roots of which clung fast Sie ^t)x al§ freie Sc&u|en to the new soil and whose abundance of blossoms promised @in ntl^ig Soog »erf(^mdf)t, good fruit."'* S)er SBanbriing Strom »on Often Conze made a name for himself in this movement when S)ritigt naf) utib ndljer fc^cn, Qs fcfeminben (sure SBdIber — he wrote a poem called "Oregon Song." In this work, Conze S)rum auf r\a6) Oregon ! portrayed, in highly romanticized terms, the spirit of the American advance to the west coast, bidding those "who do Unb 3i^r, nail 2lbenteucrn not till the soil. Ye who as free hunters a calm fate scorn" to Segterig unb nad) ©treit, 3la6} 3agen unb na4) SBagen, leave the east where resources were dwindling, to find new giacfe aBaIbe§=SuftbQrfeit, opportunities in Oregon.'^ Conze recognized that opportu­ ^erbei am alien Staaten nities came with risks as he promised adventure and battle to ®er lueiten Union! those who chose to leave, but also promised merriment and di lebe Serg unb ^Prairie! freedom in a sparsely populated country. Conze saw the west­ as lebe Oregon! ward advance as an egalitarian and unifying movement: 5Bcbl Saufenb ftart mir f ammein Ung an idiffouri'S ^lutl), The lowly and the high, ®er 3ttebre unb bet .^obe, Whether rich, whether poor in goods; Wisconsin Banner, July 18, 1846 The thousand hearts are joined Conze's farewell poem was printed in the Wisconsin Banner In one, one single tune . . . .luly, 1846, just after he enlisted in the 2nd Illinois. "Away to Oregon!" "

"Oregon Song" was widely distributed among Milwau­ "no right to . . . take exceptions to their reunion."-^"^ Mexico kee's German-speaking population and was even referred to in fact did "take exceptions" and on March 28, 1845 broke as, "the first pearl of German American poetry." Conze off diplomatic relations with the United States. directed the poem to those who were not tied to the land and For the next year relations between the two countries con­ who wished to not be ruled by monarchs, themes which cer­ sisted of saber rattling and abortive negotiations, with the dis­ tainly resonated with an immigrant population that had suf­ agreement coming to a head over competing claims fered from political oppression and lack of opportunities in regarding the true southern border of Texas. In June Polk the old country.'^ However, while Conze's call to find ordered Colonel Zachary Taylor and his army to enter the "adventure, "battle" and "daring" may have appealed to disputed territory over which neither country had an incon­ immigrants who had a high rate of mobility when they testable claim. Located between the Rio Grande and the Rio reached America, Conze suggests settling in Oregon not for Nueces 150 miles to the north, the land was virtually worth­ the sake of eventual economic security that immigrants often less and largely uninhabited. It would not have been worth sought, but for the sake of freedom and adventure. Conze fighting for on its own, but President Polk hoped to use pos­ even distances himself from the movement in the last verse, session of this land as a bargaining chip to negotiate away writing, "as free men they go westward" [emphasis added].^ much of Mexico's northern territory.^ On April 25, 1846, a While it appeared that he had a bright future ahead of him portion of Taylor's army was ambushed, and after news of in Milwaukee's emerging cultural life, Conze remained a rest­ the attack reached Washington D.C., Congress quickly less young man who would seek adventure not in Oregon, but passed a declaration of war against Mexico. Mexico. In the bill declaring war on Mexico, which passed on May 13, 1846, Congress gave President Polk the authority to The Conflict Between America and Mexico Begins recruit 50,000 volunteers. In a letter dated May 19, 1846, The election of Democrat James K. Polk in 1844 report­ Secretary of War William L. Marcy requested from Gover­ edly "caused great rejoicing among the local [Milwaukee] nor Henry Dodge that Wisconsin Territory enroll one regi­ Germans," most of whom were aligned with the Democratic ment of infantry consisting of 777 men as a reserve force only, Party.-^ From the beginning of his term in office Polk made to await possible acceptance into federal service at a later it clear that he was committed to U.S. expansion and the time.'^* Dodge released a proclamation on June 8, 1846, ask­ annexation of Texas, and he rejected the notion that Mexico ing for a "sufficient number" of young men to enroll for serv­ had any power to stop annexation. Polk insisted that the U.S. ice and elect their officers, who were to report the names of and Texas were independent nations and that Mexico had the men on the muster rolls to the general of the militia in

SPRING 2007 31 WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

^^nQ.^

Rudolph A Koss Milwaukee Military Hall in Milwaukee was a center for German-American activity in the 1840s.

Mineral Point."^^ Dodge ended his proclamation with a few zeal dampened by the long wait to be accepted into federal words to inspire Wisconsin's men to action, saying, "I trust service. The German Washington Guards of Milwaukee this call will be promptly responded to, and that the citizens under the command of Captain David George, a privately of Wisconsin will maintain the high reputation they have organized volunteer company that was more social club than heretofore gained for patriotism and bravery"^" military outfit, offered its services to the U.S. government, Governor Dodge's call for troops did not yield a great num­ but did not receive a reply and withdrew its offer.^ Other ber of volunteers. William R. Smith, Adjutant General of the young men, Conze and his friend Hermann Upmann among Wisconsin militia, reported on December 31, 1846, that only them, traveled to Illinois or other states to enlist, not wanting one company of 37 men was organized and awaiting orders to to wait for the federal government. enter federal service, far short of the 777 Dodge requested.^ Additionally, one company in Crawford County under the Conze Joins the Army command of Wiram Knowlton was mustered into service to In late June, 1846, Alexander Conze penned a farewell garrison Fort Crawford, although Smith did not know the poem to his friends in Milwaukee. "The sad sound of the last number of men in the company. •^° Governor Dodge claimed goblet has died away," wrote Conze, "The arms of friends that the lack of volunteers was due to the belief that their serv­ beloved so well have clasped me for the last time." Conze ices would be needed closer to home as the lack of regular also bade farewell to Milwaukee, "town upon the shore of army troops in Wisconsin would "embolden the Indians on your picturesque lake," vowing to "loyally remember . . . Mil­ our extended and exposed frontier . . . and that a regiment of waukee—upon far away roads." Difficult as it was to part volunteers might be required for their defence [sic] .""^ with friends and the city he loved so well, Conze dismissed Rudolph Koss claimed that within the German commu­ the sadness of "the long-avoided parting hour," writing that nity: "[when] war became a reality, enthusiasm for it faded, "honor beckons" as he wished the steamer would travel faster and many a one thought himself too good to be used as can­ "—stoke the fire, stoker," he impetuously demanded, "For non fodder by the American gentlemen."^"^ Others had their surely you are not with Mexico allied!"^'^ Less than two weeks

32 www.wisconsinhistory.org tf^

Carl Nebel, Poblanos, in V/aye pintorescoy arqueologico sobre la parte mas interesante de la Republica Mexicana

Some American volunteers were drawn by the promise of Mexico's delightful climate, lovely scenery, and "dark eyed senoras."

Santa Anna, leader of Mexican forces.

Santa Anna Prints and Photographs Collection: The Center for American History. ff -.f---,' -• V , J*. - --iCr^ .v-^"'% '*\ ,'<%.

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John Woodhouse Camp sketch by John W. Audubon, son of the famous Audubon, The Drawings of John Woodhouse John J. Audubon. Audubon, Illustrating His Adventures through Mexico and California, 1849-1850 lamenting the "scanty array of Wisconsin's heroes on a mighty sheet of paper" at the local recruiting station before Sketch of a cactus by he walked to the "Latin Grocery" where Conze's friends were John W. Audubon. assembled and engaged in a lively discussion. As a trained botanist, Conze discarded the militaristic vein of his farewell poem Conze was interested iifh^ by portraying John Hess, the owner of the Latin Grocery, as in finding and a saber-rattling buffoon, while two other friends give voice to classifying vegetation the dangers of war. In the poem, Hess vows to raise a regi­ to send back to /,''/, Germany. ment of sharpshooters and brags that "war was always my element." Conze mocks Hess by having him boast, "I did almost bravely fight to free Canada from its plight."^" Conze also uses the voice of Dr. Huebschmann to accuse Hess of later, Conze and two friends, Hermann Upmann and Carl being a warrior only when the whiskey is good, then von Rekow, enlisted in the 2nd Illinois Volunteer Infantry describes the "dangers" Conze faces as a local apothecary and would shortly thereafter sail to join Zachary Taylor's says he will supply Hess's fictitious regiment with "cannon army in Mexico. fever pills" and a shoemaker offers bomb-proof jackets to the A few days later, Conze lay in his bunk on the steamboat men in exchange for a bride from Tampico. Ohio as it made its way south on the Illinois River, and wrote Toward the end of the poem Conze questions the wisdom another poem for his friends from the "Latin Grocery," a of enlisting and wonders about his own fate. In it, Hess Milwaukee tavern where Conze and his friends used to con­ exclaims, "gentlemen of the pen should covet higher honor" gregate.^^ Conze abandoned the ideaKsm and sentimentaHty than military glory.^'^ A merchant named F.C. Lachner then typical of his earlier work and demonstrated that he knew full speaks up, wondering how Conze and Upmann are doing, well the dangers to which he was subjecting himself by enlist­ calling the men "oxen and big fools." Lachner goes on to ing. It describes the scenes that unfolded before his eyes, first say, ominously: "for Kuhnze [sic] I feel sorry ... he will rue it

34 www.wisconsinhistory.org WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY bitterly!"*"^ In response to this, a watchmaker named Goethe cramped living quarters, extreme heat, disease, unfair treat­ declares, "Never shall I, by God, shed my dear blood for this ment in the military hierarchy—that caused many to question country. I am content to sit at Hess's and to drink Best's bev­ the wisdom of enlisting. As Captain G. T M. Davis of Alton, erage," referring to the beer served at the Latin Grocery^ Illinois, wrote, "[The volunteers] could see nothing in the Conze even used the poem to make light of himself, mocking prospective but bright visions of glory, or anticipate aught else his own courage as he crosses a bridge with trepidation pro­ but a journey of pleasure . . . But, now, how changed their claiming, "Yes, I dare now continue, for even braver deeds tune! Around the camp-fires at night. . . the favorite air is the dares a soldier for his country, a Milwaukee volunteer!"** plaintive and touching words—'Home, sweet Home.' "^ It is unclear why Alexander Conze decided to join the On July 2, 1846, after one day in the army, Alexander army, and unfortunately Conze's own writings do not divulge Conze wrote a long letter describing what he had seen of his motives. His writings demonstrate he was familiar with army life. Conze noted that the "uniforms . . . differ with reasons not to join the army, which included threats to his every company," due in part to the fact that the sewing well-being, leaving the same comforts of home that kept his machine had not yet gained widespread use and the federal friends in Milwaukee from volunteering, and the attachment government had to rely on hand-sewn uniforms. Although many of his peers still had for the old country. Conze's tent the more reliable percussion ignition system was invented mate in the 2nd Illinois wrote that, "[Conze's] motives for over two decades earlier, the men were armed with anti­ [volunteering] were that he might serve his country, whose quated fiintlock muskets, and Conze remarked that some constitution he respected before all other systems of govern­ were outfitted with "fairly long rifles and daggers that would ment, and gratify his curiosity in a new mode of life, by see­ not look out of place in a museum of curiosities."^* Officers ing Mexico and observing . . . the character of her people and were no better equipped, wearing makeshift uniforms, with institutions." Likewise, Conze's "Oregon Song" and his shabby frock coats and more than one captain "commanding farewell poem used language that described a deep attach­ his company with drawn walking-stick."'^^ The men hved in ment to his adopted country and ideals such as freedom and small tents, six men to a tent, which were pitched on an oak- U.S. expansion. Rudolph Koss in his history of Milwaukee covered hill. Conze observed that the camp presented, "a pic­ gave another reason for Conze's enHstment, writing, "A few ture that would be a welcome subject for the brush of the of his more intimate friends are of the opinion that world- painter, provided that the artist were not a lover of music. For weariness (despair because of existing conditions and result­ then the heart- and ear-rending notes coming from the ing weariness of life) drove him into this war and probably drums and flutes played by unpracticed hands and hps would caused him to seek death." ° However, Koss qualifies this soon drive him away . . ."''^ Conze also pointed out to his sat­ assertion by writing that few people understood Conze even isfaction that in his company, the Texas Guards, there were though he was very popular and had no enemies.*'^ "splendid and highly educated persons" who would "sit upon S. Compton Smith, who moved to Wisconsin after the a log and talk metaphysics." war, claimed the real reason the soldiers enlisted was for Conze's love for American political institutions did not adventure. As Smith wrote in a post-war memoir, "It was not keep him from critiquing native-born Americans. He an impulse of patriotism, strictly speaking, which prompted remarked that discipline was enforced mildly, attributing this the simultaneous spirit of volunteering throughout the coun­ to "the blessing of a free Constitution that under it man try ... but a spirit of enterprise and curiosity . . ."*^ Through­ learns to govern himself and does not grow accustomed to out his life Smith wanted to visit Mexico, calling a visit there, look up to a man higher up who will subdue his passions "one of the cherished plans of my life, from the earliest days through slavish fear."^° That said, Conze noted that his regi­ of boyhood." '^ The Milwaukee Daily Courier supported ment consisted mostly of Germans who he hoped would Colonel George R. Floyd's invitation to young men from carry out "heroic deeds which . . . will redound to the honor Wisconsin to join the army because "it would be more an of the German name, and to the humiliation of the excursion of pleasure, than an arduous campaign . . . The natives."^^ Conze closed his lengthy letter with the observa­ delightful climate, the lovely scenery, and above all, the 'dark tion that Americans were beginning to grow mustaches, eyed senoras,' offer temptations to our young men which we which he took as, "a sign of the decline of that rigid puri- should think irresistible."'^'^ tanism which is the curse of our adopted fatherland.""*^ Whatever their reasons for enlisting, most of the men who When the 2nd Illinois left Alton later in July, steaming joined the army knew nothing of the trials of warfare. As S. down the Mississippi en route to Texas, the enlisted men Compton Smith wrote, "War, practical war, was a thing began to endure hardships and unfair treatment that would unknown to the youth of the land: they had only the knowl­ cause a disillusioned Alexander Conze to write that, "my edge of it obtained from books."'^ Once in the army and out dreams of a republican army soon dissolved . . ."° The rela­ in the field, torments and rigors befell the volunteers— tive ease of camp life in Alton was replaced by "the disagree-

SPRING 2007 35 WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY able conditions of a steerage" as the men were packed into San Antonio. The few houses between Victoria and San cramped quarters with "heat reigning in most parts of the Antonio were crudely built structures formed by driving logs boat.""'^ Additionally, the officers who had been "raised to into the ground and filling in the spaces between with clay, their position by the votes of the soldiers" and who, addition­ with thatched roofs and dirt floors.'' Farms were scarce and ally, "but recently possessed a knowledge of military science as farming was difficult and unsafe due to the prevalence of rob­ limited as could be expected from an honest Philistine," began bers in the sparsely-populated area. Life in San Antonio was to treat the common soldier as "a being far below them, whose Httle better as only one-tenth of the city's population woe or weal does not merit any particular attention.""^ While remained after repeated wars with the Comanches and Mex­ the enlisted men had to satiate their thirst with warm water ico. Conze held out little hope for recovery in a city, "where drawn from the river on which they traveled, the officers we come across suspicious-looking characters armed with drank liquor and lemonade. To compound the insult, officers knives and pistols at every step, where dozens of gaming sold to the enlisted men "ice-water made sour with the slices tables are in full swing day and night, and where few men of lemon" previously used to make their lemonade, for the seem to think of making an honest and regular living."^* same price they paid "for the best claret punch or Madeira." Among the inhabitants Conze found a vice consul of the King Conze and the rest of the enlisted men had a brief respite of France who ran "well-stocked wine and liquor shops," in New Orleans where life became a little more tolerable."'^ as well as a group of German settlers trying to earn money to Instead of army-issued pork, the men were able to dine on move to northern states or back to Germany after having fruit and oysters, enjoying "fiery wines" as well. Although become disenchanted with the "promise of Texan delights."'^^ officially forbidden by their superior officers from entering While Conze claimed that he was eager to "revel in Mon­ the city, Conze and his comrades paid so little attention to the tezuma's Halls," morale in the 2nd Illinois was very low. prohibition that Conze remarked, "many of us were to be Most of Conze's comrades wished to be back at home with found spending more time in the city than in the camp."° their families, and were "cursing the day on which they con­ Conze explained that, "forced by a bread and coffee famine, secrated their services to their fatherland." Many officers and themselves eager for the fiesh-pots of New Orleans" the were leaving the service due to illness, prompting Conze to officers failed to enforce obedience.^^ In New Orleans, note acerbically, "If the privates had the same privilege, the Conze and some friends also placed "the first laurels round regiments would within a few days dwindle down to one-half our temples by killing an alligator who had been bold enough their size. How beautifully this harmonizes with the enthusi­ to cause us uneasiness in the midst of our tents." After a rest asm which prompted us a few months ago to write 'Victory of several days in New Orleans, the 2nd Illinois boarded a or Death' upon our banners, and which would be satisfied ship to sail across the Gulf of Mexico, stopping for two days with nothing short of the waters of the Pacific Ocean as our in Galveston before proceeding to Lavaca, Texas, where Gen­ proper boundary!"''*^ eral John Wool's army was concentrating. The 2nd Illinois remained in San Antonio until October "[A] campaign into Texas would make the most glib pen 2, 1846, when they set out to join in an abortive expedition to forget corresponding," wrote Alexander Conze on September capture the city of Chihuahua in western Mexico, about 200 10, 1846, explaining his epistolary neglect to the editor of the miles south of El Paso. The regiment, moving with General Wisconsin Banner."'^ Conze and the 2nd Illinois were in John Wool's army, crossed the Rio Grande in the middle of Lavaca only a short time before they set out for San Antonio October and continued marching until they reached the on a march so difficult that Conze remarked, "my poor imag­ town of Santa Rosa over one hundred miles from the Rio ination had never dreamed of the possibility of such marches. Grande. After a brief stay, the regiment was on the march Even the most high and mighty superiors seemed to have again, reaching Monclova on November 3.°*^ After a three- compassion for the common soldier . . ."'^ The route they week stay in Monclova, Wool's army was ordered to abandon traveled was flooded after twenty days of rain, and the men the Chihuahua campaign and move south to Parras, which spent the first two days slogging through fiooded plains, they reached December 5 after an intense, meandering swamps, and unbridged rivers. As they departed the coast twelve day march during which they covered 181 miles. the weather became more hot and dry and water became Fearing that Mexican leader Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna scarcer, forcing the men to rely on the small brooks they hap­ was preparing to attack the various small American forces pened upon every six or ten miles during their march. Addi­ scattered throughout northern Mexico, General Wool was tionally, illnesses among the regiment began to increase, most ordered by Zachary Taylor to move east towards Saltillo on likely brought on by unsanitary living conditions and con­ December 17.^-^ Only four days later. Wool's army, including taminated water.'" Conze and the 2nd Illinois, reached the town of Agua Nueva, Conze also turned his thoughtful attention to the sites he just south of Saltillo and Buena Vista in northern Mexico."^ saw in Texas, painting a stark picture of life in and around The long marches throughout northern Mexico were not

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SPRING 2007 37 WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY without of periods of enjoyment and learning for Alexander army^' Conze's company numbered 62 men on the morning Conze. His tentmate, who referred to Conze as "probably the of the 23rd; by that evening there were only 25 remaining fit most learned man in the army," wrote that he and Conze for duty.^2 Hermann Upmann was badly wounded in both spent hours together, "rambhng over the plains and moun­ legs during the battle and crippled for life.^' tains of Mexico," while Conze collected plants, many of Sadly, Conze's low physical stature did not prove beneficial which he was able to class "in their several genera and on the battlefield. On February 26, 1847, Hermann Upmann species" owing to his prior study of biology, intending to send wrote to a friend, "[I]t is my painful duty to . . . inform you them to Germany. Conze's extensive knowledge of Latin that A. Conze, our universal friend, has fallen. During the enabled him, after one day of studying a Spanish grammar whole of the hot day of the 23rd he fought close by me, and it text, to read Spanish with ease.°'^ was not until evening that he met Despite the hardships encoun­ his honorable death, struck down tered in the army, the campaign by a musket-ball in his breast." tor in foar dMperatft contest*, deverre at thp gave Conze the opportunity to baikda of m prmtefal coaotrr • Conze's tentmate wrote that: "A Thi "gratify his curiosity in a new Tn» KiLLSU *»!. Wor.iDiD.— We receired, t< better or braver heart than his by yeatenUy'i mail, complete Tisls of the killed mode of life, by seeing Mexico and wounded at Baaoi ViiU, bolli of oi&ccrs and Lut. never beat its last upon a field of C and observing, as he did with a prirates. It i» a long aad meiancJioly record- battle. While waiting upon the We rerret to find among the killed the nrine ul r iliiij philosophic eye, the character of ALEXAKUXK Ko»l£, of tht» city, an iutclligeni field, on the night of the 23 rd of [)a|> younf (ierman, who left here last Auninicr to en- her people and institutions." we I February, the renewal of the liat for the war*. Among the tvouuded, too, tjTCfll and edi his comrades, that death on the kindly caiod for. 'J'he Company to which Mr. dan After seven months in the (Ipmann was attached numbered GS men when N next day, might make them com­ they went into action, but could only muster 25. ihei army Alexander Conze had Froi panions of Miltiades, of Socrates, (it for duty, whea the 6ghi was over. They that endured a march of about one were moady GennanSp and have thus sealed with ^|^ and of Kunze [sic]." their blaod the allogi«nce they hawo »«orn and root thousand miles which was report­ the a^tacbdEeot the'. |

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Notes 1. Carl H. Kiioche, "Alexander Conze: An Early Milwaukee Cierman-American Poet," 56. Ibid. in German American StudiesV (1972), p. 148. 57. Ibid. 2. Ibid. 58. Ibid. 3. Conzen, Kathleen Neils, Immigrant Mikvaukee 1836-1860 (Cambridge, MA: Har­ 59. Ibid. vard University Press, 1976), p. 173; Knoche, p. 148. 60. Ibid. 4. Koss, Rudolph A., Milwaukee (Milwaukee, Wl: Schnellpressendruck des "Herold," 61. Alexander Conze to Moritz Schoeffler, September 10, 1846, in Alexander Conze 1871) p. 224-225. Letters. 5. Henry W. Bleyer, "Wisconsin in the War with Mexico," in Early Milwaukee (Milwau­ 62. Ibid. kee, Wl: Old Settlers Club, 1916), p.121; Jenny Conze to Franz Huebschmann, 63. Ibid. August 12, 1847, in Alexander Conze Letters, Wisconsin Historical Society, Madison, 64. Ibid. Wl. 65. Alexander Conze to Moritz Schoeffler, September 10, 1846, in Alexander Conze 6. Still, Bayrd, Milwaukee: Tim History of a City (Madison: State Historical Society of Letters. Wisconsin, 1948) p. 70. 66. Ibid. 7. Conzen, p. 18. 67. Ibid. 8. Ibid. 68. Ibid. 9. Conzen, p. 172-173; Still, p. 73, 14n 69. Ibid. 10. Koss, p. 135-136; Still, p. 75. 70. Ibid. 11. Koss, p. 145; Still, p. 75. 71. K. Jack Bauer, The Mexican Il^r (New York: Macmil- 12. Still, p. 79; Koss, p. 159. lan, 1974), p. 146. 13. Still, p. 77; Koss, p. 159, 162. 72. "Soldiering, Suffering and Dying in the Mexican 14. Koss, p. 135. War," by Thomas R. Irey, Journal of the West 11, no. 2 15. Ibid., p. 193-194. (1972): 285-298; Conze to Moritz Schoeffler, Septem­ 16. Ibid. ber 10, 1846. 17. Koss, p. 194; Knoche, p. 151. 73. Alexander Conze to Moritz Schoeffler, September 18. Conzen, p. 22-23. 10, 1846, in Alexander Conze Letters. 19. Conzen, p. 42, 6,3; Knoche, p. 151. 74. Ibid. 20. Koss, p. 194; Knoche, p. 151. 75. Ibid. 21. Koss, p. 166. 76. Ibid. 22. James K Polk Inaugural Address, March 4, 1845, 77. Ibid. online text available at: 78. Ibid. http://www.yale.edu/lawweb/avalon/presiden/inaug/ 79. Bauer pp. 145-159. polk.htm. 80. Bauer, p. 149. 23. Bauer, p. 11. 81. Bauer, p. 150. 24. Prairie du Chien (Wl) Pa(™(, January 19, 1847; Mil­ 82. Bauer, p. 151. waukee Sentinel June 8, 1846; Milwaukee Sentinel, June 83. Bauer, p. 204. 4, 1846. 84. Milwaukee Sentinel & Gazette, May 12, 1847. 25. Milwaukee Sentinel, ]une 8, 1846. WHi Image ID 45351 85. Ibid. 26. Ibid. 86. Ibid. 27. Journal of the Council, First Annual Session of tiie 5th Conze's friend, Dr. Francis 87. Elliott, Isaac H., Record of the services of Illinois soldiers Legislative Assembly of the Territory of Wisconsin (Madi­ in the Black Hawk war, 1831—32, and in the Mexican war, son, W.T.: H.A. Tenney, Territorial printer, 1847), p. Huebschmann, an active 1846-8 . . . (Springfield, IL: H. W. Rokker, state 276. member of Milwaukee's printer, 1882), p. xxvii. 28. Ibid.; Wisconsin Argus, ]uh 21, 1846. 88. Alexander Conze to Moritz Schoeffler, July 2, 1846, 29. Prairie du Chien (Wl) Patriot, Junuary 19, 1847. German community. in Alexander Conze Letters. 30. Koss, p. 223. 89. Bauer, pp. 209, 217. 31. Cooper, Jerry Marvin, The Wisconsin Militia, 90. Hermann Upmann to "Uncle," February 25, 1847, 1832-1900, master's thesis, UW-Madison, 1968, p. in Alexander Conze Letters. 9-11, 75. 91. McCaffrey, p. 146. 32. Smith, Alice E. The History of Wisconsin vo\. 1, From Exploration to Statehood (Madi­ 92. Hermann Upmann to "Uncle," February 25, 1847, in Alexander Conze Letters. son: State Historical Society of Wisconsin, 1973), p. 637; Koss, p. 22.3-224. 93. Bleyer, p.126. 33. Alexander Conze, "Departure From Milwaukee," June 22, 1846. Quoted from 94. Hermann Upmann to Dr. Huebschmann, February 26, 1847, in Alexander Conze Koss, Rudolph A., Milwaukee, (Milwaukee, Wl: Schnellpressendruck des "Herold," Letters. 1871) p. 224-225. 95. Milwaukee Sentinel & Gazette, May 12, 1847. 34. Ibid. 96. Milwaukee Sentinel iSf Gazette, April 14, 1847; Wisconsin Banner April 17, 1847. 35. Koss, p. 224-225. Quoted from Alexander Conze Letters. 36. Carl H. Knoche, "Alexander Conze: An Early Milwaukee German-American 97. Jenny Conze to Franz Huebschmann, August 12, 1847, in Alexander Conze Letters. Poet," in German American StudiesY (1972), p. 152. 98.'lbid. 37. Koss, p. 225-228. 99. Ibid. 38. Ibid; This is possibly a facetious reference to the failed attempt by the shadowy 100. Reuben Gold Thwaitcs, ct al., Wisconsin in Three Centuries, vol. 4 (New York: The Hunters' Lodges to establish a Republic of Canada, free from British rule. For more Century History Company, 1906), p. 193. information on this movement, see Wisconsin Magazine of History Volume 89 Number 2 (Winter 2005-2006), pp. 19-21. 39. Koss, p. 225-228. 40. Ibid. 41. Ibid. 42. Ibid. 43. Ibid; Knoche, p. 162, 8n About the Author 44. Koss, p. 225-228. 45. Milwaukee Sentinel & Gazette, May 12, 1847. 46. Koss, p. 223-224. John Zimm holds a degree in history 47. Ibid. from the University of Wisconsin- 48. S. Compton Smith, Chile con came, or. The camp and the field (Milwaukee, Wl: Ford Madison and has worked at the & Fairbanks, 1857), pp. 3-4. 49. Ibid., p. 5 Wisconsin Historical Society Press 50. Milwaukee Daily Courier, May 28, 1846; Milwaukee Sentinel May 29, 1846. since 2002. He is also a classical man­ 51. S. Compton Smith, p .4 52. Milwaukee Daily Sentinel ^ Gazette, April 21, 1847. dolin player John lives in Waunakee, 53. Winders, p. 112. Wisconsin, with his wife and son. 54. McCaffrey, pp. 37—41; Alexander Conze to Mr. Editor (Moritz Schoeffler), July 2, 1846, in Alexander Conze Letters. 55. Ibid.

SPRING 2007 39 WHi Image ID 45498 Captain Augustus Quarles who led Company F of the 1,5th United States Infantry after General Scott's invasion at Vera Cruz. BATTLE AT The Story of Captain

n March 1847, Augustus Quarles of Southport, now mind, General Winfield Scott planned a major invasion at Kenosha, left the post office on Main Street waving a large Vera Cruz to be followed by an advance on Mexico City. I envelope above his head exclaiming, "I've got it! I've got Scott began landing troops in early March 1847, and, by the it!"' The jubilant display "caused quite a commotion along end of the month, Vera Cruz had surrendered. In early April, the little village street and he was congratulated on all sides."•^ Scott's army began to march inland toward Mexico City. Quarles, lawyer. Democratic Party operative, and friend of At 4 o'clock in the afternoon, Sunday, May 3, 1847, three sig­ Morgan L. Martin, Wisconsin's Territorial representative in nal guns fired in Milwaukee, announcing the arrival of the Washington, had just received a captain's commission in the steamer LoLzisiana. Augustus Quarles and his company gathered U.S. Army. Quarles immediately went to work and, in two and marched with an escort to the South Pier on Milwaukee's months, enlisted 100 men who would see service in the Mex­ waterfront. Milwaukee Mayor Horatio Wells gave a farewell ican War as Company F of the 15th U.S. Infantry. address to the men praying that "the God of batties guide, pro­ While Alexander Conze served in the northern army tect, preserve, and return you to us again in safety and in honor." under Zachary Taylor, Quarles and his men would travel far­ Captain Quarles "made a short and soldier-like reply," the men ther south to Vera Cruz on the eastern coast of Mexico. In boarded the ship, and, "as shades of night fell, the Louisiana the fall of 1846, President Polk and his cabinet decided to started on her journey under a salute of artillery.""^ change the strategy for winning the war, abandoning the Quarles' company took the Louisiana to Detroit, and hope that repeated military pressure in the north would com­ along the way, "suffered much from cold" because they were pel the Mexican government to sue for peace and concluding not issued uniforms until they reached Detroit.^ The next that victory would only be achieved by capturing the capital stop was Cincinnati, where the men received their rifles and at Mexico City and occupying the country. With this aim in camped for four days before sailing down the Ohio and Mis-

40 www.wisconsinhistory.orj General Scott and his army entered Mexico City September 14, 1847. They are in the Grand Plaza in this Carl Nebel lithograph: National Palace (right) and the Cathedral (center). George Wilkins Kendall, The War Between the United States and Mexico CHURUBUSCO Augustus Quarles

sissippi rivers to New Orleans. Finally, in June 1847, the men lant officers, [and] nobly fell in the same action."''^ Quarles sailed through the Gulf of Mexico to Vera Cruz, Mexico, on was also mentioned in Governor Dodge's annual message. board the ships Southport and J^ussia.^ While sailing through Dodge wrote, "The memory of Captain Quarles and the the Gulf of Mexico, Quarles found the weather "so con­ men who fell in battle under his command, in the defense of founded . . . hot, that it is almost more than a man can do to the rights of our common country, will long be cherished by hold even a pen."" The company reached Vera Cruz on June the grateful people of Wisconsin."" ftffl 13, after a twelve-day voyage from New Orleans.' On August 19, 1847, with Scott's army threatening Mex­ Notes 1. Gardner, Charles K., A dictionary of all officers, who have been commissioned, or have been ico City, Quarles' company fought at Contreras, about seven appointed and served, in the army of the United States, since the inauguration of their first pres­ miles outside of Mexico City, where Quarles reportedly ident, in 1789, to the first January, 1853, (New York: D. Van Nosttand, 1860), p. 370; Milwaukee Sentinel August 20, 1899. showed "a coolness and self possession worthy of an old sol­ 2. Ibid. dier."" The next day during the Battle of Churubusco, a bul­ 3. Milwaukee Sentinel &" Gazette, May 4, 1847. 4. Ibid. let struck Captain Quarles as he "waved his sword to inspire 5. Scmthport American,^u\y 10, 1847; Henry W. Bleyer, "Wisconsin in the War with Mex­ his men."^ He was caught as he fell by Lieutenant Dietrich ico," in Early Milwaukee (Milwaukee, Wl: Old Settlers Club, 1916), p. 123. 6. Southport American, ]u\y 10, 1847. Upmann and was carried away from the front. Quarles 7. Milwaukee Sentinel ^ Gazette, ]u\y 10, 1847. 8. Bleyer, p. 124. reportedly ordered Upmann to take command of the com­ 9. Ibid. pany. '^ A few hours later, he died, becoming Wisconsin's first 10. Prairie Du Chien (Wl) Patriot, November 11, 1847. 11. Loomis, p. 170. commissioned officer to die in federal service. 12. General Winfield Scott, Official Report of the Battles of Contreras and Churubusco, online Quarles was mentioned by name in General Scott's report text available at: http://www.dmwv.0rg/mexwar/d0cuments/d0cs.htm#rep0rts. 13. Governor Henry Dodge, Annual Message, February 8, 1848. In Wisconsin Territor­ of the battle along with four other officers who were "all gal­ ial Documents (microfiche) vol. 2, fiche 8, document 58.

SPRING 2007 41 WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

This merry windmill marks the site of Sisson's Peony Gardens, a Rosendale landmark recently listed on the State and the National Register of Historic Places. 1930 Price List—Retail SIISS©N*S All photos courtesy of Rosendale Historical Society IP IE ©N HIES W. .\. SISSON, Owner anil ManamT lto.sen

Member of The .American Peony Society Tile .-\nierican Ili.s Society The .-Xinerican (>la4li<>lii.s Society (Vinuneirial IVony and Iris (Growers' .-\.s.sn. ^ lesSi

The second owner of Sisson's Peony Gardens, Jesse Phillips, Sisson's 1930 peony price list. Through with a President Lincoln peony. From 1929 on, Phillips the 1920s and 19.30s, the gardens offered gradually took over the care of the gardens and led their an increasing variety of plants each year. expansion in the 1950s and 1960s.

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^^

hy Lee Somerville

n the heart of the tiny village of Rosendale in Fond du Lac journals and, in 1928, advertised for the first time in Wisconsin County, located on Main Street and just north of the inter­ Horticulture. Annual brochures from the late 1920s track the Isection of State Highways 23 and 26, there is an unusual growth of the business and the increasing numbers and varieties and unexpected Wisconsin historical gem. Behind a white picket of plants offered for sale. fence and gate post, a squat, rustic windmill with bright blue In 1928, Sisson purchased two lots in the village of Rosendale sails marks the original site of Sisson's Peony Gardens, a regional adjoining his sister's back yard, which was referred to as "The landmark for almost seventy years. The landmark gardens were Home Garden." He named the new gardens "The Memorial recently listed on the State and the National Register of Historic Garden" and "The Windmill Garden." Jesse Phillips then joined Places in the area of commerce as an example of the importance Sisson as his new assistant and eventual partner, and he built the of small-scale niche markets to Wisconsin agriculture. The long gardens' signature windmill in 1929 when the Windmill Garden narrow lot that stretches to the west behind the windmill cur­ gate became the new entrance to the complex of gardens. rently contains about 250 of the original peony plants. Wilbur Sisson died in 1950 and left Sisson's Gardens to Jesse The peony gardens originated in 1918 when 50-year-old Phillips, who had been taking progressively more responsibility Wilbur Sisson came to live with his sister in Rosendale after he for the business since 1929. It was Phillips who made the gardens retired as manager of the Ripon telegraph office. He brought his a success, and he capitalized on that by purchasing additional typewriter rental business to Rosendale, along with his beloved acreage adjoining the Memorial Garden, thus creating an inter­ collection of peony, iris, and gladiolus plants, which he planted locking four-acre area within the village boundaries. Phillips was in his sister's back yard. Although they were all popular garden a peony breeder recognized by the American Peony Society for plants of the time, the peony emerged as a favorite in American introducing three new varieties, which were registered in 1953: gardens and often occupied a place of honor in the front yard. "Tinka Phillips" named for his daughter Kathryn, "Kathryn E. Due to its resistance to disease, longevity, reliability, and the Manuel," after the aunt who had raised him, and "Owen F. exceptional beauty of its large flowers, the easy-to-grow peony Hughes," Phillips' grandfather. plant's popularity was ensured. As a result, peonies were bred By the 1960s, Sisson's Peony Gardens had developed a and marketed by horticulturists across the United States. regional reputation for its peony plants, and during the two- Sisson's membership in the American Peony Society gave week June blooming season, thousands of visitors crowded into him access to the existing mail-order companies, and his hobby the village of Rosendale to walk through the gardens and to pur­ quickly developed into a successful nursery and shipping enter­ chase plants and flowers. In 1968, Wisconsin Governor Warren prise. His nephew and namesake Wilbur Lawson and his wife ICnowles issued a proclamation honoring Sisson's Peony Gar­ Lura, offered their farm acreage just outside Rosendale for nurs­ dens for enhancing the beauty of Rosendale and the state of Wis­ ery beds in return for partnership in the business. Between 1923 consin, naming the second week in June "Peony Week" in and 1928, Sisson and the Lawsons presented papers on peony Wisconsin. The annual celebration of Peony Week continued for cultivation at local and regional horticultural meetings. They fifteen years, attracting visitors—who enjoyed the beauty and also published a number of articles in midwestern horticultural fragrance of the thousands of colorful plants—not only from the

SPRING 2007 43 Katherine "Tinka" Phillips, with the peony of the same name—one of the varieties developed by her father.

state but from around the country. After Phillips' retirement in from Main Street, became the Sisson's signature and was used 1979, ongoing problems led to the gradual decline of the busi­ extensively for advertising purposes. ness. The Peony Festival was cancelled after 1982, and, in 1988, In 2005, the garden was purchased by the Rosendale Histor­ Sisson's Peony Gardens closed its gates and sold most of its ical Society, which is in the process of restoring the original acreage for apartment development. peony beds. The site will be open seasonally as a peony display Today, the Windmill Garden is the last surviving remnant of area to commemorate the contribution made by Wilbur Sisson this once busy and vibrant nursery. Originally purchased by Sis­ and Jesse Phillips to the commercial, agricultural, and social son in 1928, the narrow lot with its long beds is located immedi­ structure of Rosendale and the surrounding area. Their success­ ately to the south of the Home Garden and is filled with masses ful creation and decades-long operation of a specialty niche of colorful, scented peony plants. The gothic entrance gate market had a positive economic impact on both the immediate remains, but it is no longer used as an entrance. Instead, visitors community and the entire state. enter the garden from a new gate on Main Street that leads For admission to the garden and information on the formal directly to the windmill after which the garden was named. Both dedication ceremony in June, contact the Rosendale Historical the original gothic gate and the windmill remain unchanged to Society at http://rosendale.wlhn.org. this day. Their rustic style is exaggerated by the use of local field- To learn more about Sisson Gardens and other properties on stone, taken from the foundation of a local church when it was the State and the National Register of historic places, log on to: rebuilt. The windmill, with its bright blue sails clearly visible www.wisconsinhistory.org/hp/register. IMi

44 www.wisconsinhistory.org The Peony Queens of 1974 and 1975, Dawn Miller and Julie Bearwald,

During the 1960s, thousands of people visited the gardens Banners decorated the streets of Rosendale during the annual during the peonies' two-week blooming season each June. Peony Week, first designated in 1968 by Governor Knowles.

Bibliography Lawson, Mrs. W.A. "Peony Time is Here." Wisconsin Horticulturist,]un€ 1928. Lawson, Wilbur. 'The Peony." Transactions of tiie Wisconsin State Horticultural Soci­ ety, July 1923, 136-142. Radtke, Lyle R, commercial photographer. Fond du Lac, Wl. Historic postcard views of Sisson's Peony Gardens. New York: Yorkolor Process, ca. 1965. Rahmlow, Henry. The History of Seventy-Five Years of Active Service. The Wisconsin State Horticultural Society, Madison: Wisconsin Horticulture, 1943, 64-65. Retail Price List 1936-7. Sisson's Peonies, June 1960. Scheid, Mrs. Milo (Harriet) and Mrs. John (Carrie) .Griffiths. Village of Rosendale, Wis­ consin, 1847-1974. Appleton, Wl: J & J. Printing, 1975. Schnell, Traci and Lena Sweeten. "Sisson's Peony Gardens: A Determination of Eli­ gibility Form," prepared for the Wisconsin Department of Transportation Heritage Research Ltd, Menominee Falls, Wisconsin. December 1998. On file in the Historic Preservation-Public History Division, Wisconsin Historical Society. Sisson's peonies and irises. 1928 List. Sisson's Peonies. 1930 Price list. Sisson, W.A. "My Peony Family." Garden Flowers, vol. 1, no. 1, February 1928. "Sisson's Peonies." Advertisment in Wisconsin Horticulture, J^ximxy 1928, vol. X, no. 4, February 1928. Sisson, W.A. "How to Grow the Peony." Minnesota Horticulturist, vol. 51, no. 10, Octo­ ber 1923, 300-303. Sisson, W.A. "It's Time to Plant Peonies," Wisconsin Horticulture, vol. XX, no.l, Sep­ tember 1929. Westphal, Emajean. Yesterday, Today &" Forever: A Pictorial History of Rosendale Wisconsin and 100 years of Peace Evangelical Lutheran Church. Ripon, Wl: Ripon Community Printer, 1984. Wisconsin Historical Society, State Historic Preservation Office. "Sisson's Peony Gar­ Enjoying the Windmill Garden in 1957 dens" by Lee Somerville. Madison: 2006. (National Register of Historic Places Nomi­ nation Form.)

SPRING 2007 45 WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

Jesse Phillips developed this white peony in honor of Charm peony Kathryn E. Manuel, the aunt who raised him. He registered the new variety in 1953.

Nippon Red peony Avalanche peony

46 www.wisconsinhistory.org WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

Peter Oleson peony

About the Author

Lee Somerville is a graduate student in tine Department of Landscape Architecture at the University of Wisconsin-IVIadison. Although she grew up in England, she considers her­ self a Wisconsinite after living in Green Bay for many years. Her interest in Wisconsin garden history developed from her participation in the develop­ ment and maintenance of period gardens at Heritage Hill State Helen peony Historical Park in Green Bay. She presently lives in Door County where she is writing her thesis and growing peonies.

SPRING 2007 47 WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

FINDING FREEDOM The Untold Story of Jodhua Glover, Runaway Slave

By Ruby West Jackson and Walter T. McDonald

The following is an excerpt from Finding Freedom: they could very quickly be returned to involuntary servitude. The Untold Story of Joshua Glover, Runaway Slave by For Joshua Glover, who had settled in Racine after fieeing his Ruby West Jackson and Walter T. McDonald, published by the St. Louis master two years earlier, this danger hit particularly Wisconsin Historical Society Press. The action takes place in close to home. On or about March 8, 1854, two men were March 1854 and leads up to the event that brought unex­ seen attempting to enter Glover's cabin; hnding it locked, they pected fame to the Joshua Glover left. A colored woman who had name: his dramatic rescue from seen them, thinking she might be jail by thousands of Wisconsin the target of their efforts, left abolitionists. town that night.^ Such fear was not unfounded. pproximately sixty It was relatively easy for an black and mulatto owner to "reclaim" a runaway A adult citizens were slave just as soon as the owner recorded as living in Racine in could satisfy a federal judge that FINDING the 1850 U.S. census. Of these, the person in question was some­ about two dozen were listed as one other than who he or she having been born in states per­ F R E E D O M claimed to be. mitting slavery.^ Because they • That is exactly what Joshua's were all too aware of the precar­ former owner Benammi Garland ious nature of the conditions The Untold Story of did shortly after arriving in Mil­ under which they lived, those Josh ua Glover, Runaway Slave waukee from St. Louis in early who were runaway slaves would March. Accompanied by Police BSES^C!^^' ' JM2Q»?MjW '^E«fc?aS:>^ ' ' have been especially wary about Officer Melvin, also of St. Louis, disclosing their actual state of Garland visited the law offices of origin or might have avoided the Arnold and Hamilton, retaining enumerator as he made his the services of Jonathan E. rounds, as is done to this day by •ER T. Mc Arnold. This was probably the those called "undocumented same Jonathan Arnold who was aliens." Though they lived in a retained in 1842 by the former free state, hundreds of miles 'J^X owners of the runaway slave Car­ from the site of their bondage, oline Quarles, who hid in Mil­ Racine's black residents knew waukee before she was taken to vr^n^tmam 11 ^-

48 www.wisconsinhistory.org WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

strength to assure Glover's capture. They were joined by Deputy Marshal Kearney and by a fifth person, Daniel F. Houghton, a farmer from the nearby town of Dover. No available accounts indicate that Houghton, a Democ­ rat, also known to the community as "the Slave Catcher of Dover," took any more active role in the capture than being on the scene. He was also said to have aspirations to be the next state senator from the county. He and his wife, Emily, both thirty, as well as the two eldest of their three children, were born in New York. Their youngest, a year old, was born in Wisconsin, indicating that the family had lived there only a few years. Houghton also had living in his household two other people, Charles and Jane Robinson, ages sixty-two and forty-eight, respectively, both born in New York and both black. If their ages were listed correcdy, they would have been

WHi Image ID 6270 born in 1788 and 1802 and might well have also been born The only image of .Joshua Glover known into slavery in New York. Although under state law Jane to exist, this hand-drawn portrait by Robinson would have been considered free, she would still C.C. Olin may not be entirely realistic. have been required to serve her mother's owner until she reached the age of twenty-five. Canada on the Underground Railroad. The same issue of the In one newspaper account following Glover's capture, paper that reported that meeting also reported that Arnold's Houghton was referred to as "an old Hunker Democrat from associate, Mr. Hamilton, approached Captain Gardiner of the town of Dover."' Another incident is related sometime the militia in an effort to borrow twelve revolvers, to be used after the capture of Glover, in which Houghton stopped at a for protection against the angry abolitionists that were antic­ tavern in the county and offered to buy a drink for the man ipated. He was adamantly refused. standing next to him at the bar. After the offer was refused by At the attorneys' office. Garland executed an affidavit him, and successively by every man at the bar, the last one to attesting to his ownership of Glover. Prior to his arrival in Mil­ refuse declared loudly, "No one here will drink with a nigger waukee, Garland had made proof of his property before the catcher."" It is also an interesting sidelight that when Court of Common Pleas in St. Louis, during its February Houghton was arrested on state charges of kidnapping fol­ term.*^ This was then presented to Andrew G. Miller, the fed­ lowing Glover's capture, his bail was put up by A. P. Dutton, eral judge for the Milwaukee district, who issued a warrant for the Racine grain merchant and transfer agent who later fig­ the arrest of Glover. Document in hand. Garland proceeded ured prominently in Glover's journey to Canada.^ to Racine in the company of Officer Melvin and Deputy U.S. As the sun was beginning to set. Garland and the posse Marshal Charles C. Cotton. Once there, Garland added oth­ arranged to hire two wagons at the Armour Livery Stable, ers to the group so the posse would be of sufficient size and located in Racine. Climbing into the wagons as dusk gath-

TWO irUWDRlEI) DOI.I.AIIS REWARD. RAJS iCVWiL^ from. ihiisybaJiribar, livjng 1..miles Wfcst o-f .the: city oi Sl» Louis, on ??atxmUvy night iiisi/.a negro mati tUe UiiTXi.ii<(f .loshna; aTHmtii5';r lOyvSrij.af ajc, jibout' 'fect.lijgtii'jspayi' Avitb lo.rigl(fg.s and' fj-UQrtlio(|y, fujl suit of itau*, eyes jult&jnctj ami rsOlj hi* eolwjis OjUjashy 5t.la.efc'.. llauiid Uhick d^e&^•eQat,.llE.4Jl>5:qa- •' bn& iluri HctootuoflotbftsSrithliinj... Th'oftbovefewar)l.v1tit-e Courtesy of Point of Honor, ptiator I1.I3 npt^Kciixmsifta if taSteU out of tii

SPRING 2007 49 WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

WHi Innage ID 40836 Little is known about this drawing showing Glover being seized in his cabin. It entered the Historical Society's collection from an unknown book.

ered, the party headed for Glover's quarters at the Rice and Cabin in Milwaukee was considerably lower than expected, Sinclair sawmill, about four miles from town. ^ The late win­ although the next issue noted that Saturday's performance ter weather had been marked by alternating freezing and was well attended and the audience seemed highly gratified. thawing, and there had been a recent heavy snowfall as well, The posse had, however, an ace in the hole because of the producing conditions not very conducive to either stealth or presence in Glover's cabin of Nelson Turner. A freed slave speed, both of which were essential for the success of their mis­ from Natchez, Mississippi, Turner is believed to have made a sion. In fact, the weather in the area was so miserable, and the couple of trips to St. Louis over the previous winter to consult streets in such desperate condition, that a local newspaper with Garland and had accompanied Garland and Melvin reported that attendance at Friday's opening of Uncle Tom's from St. Louis to Racine on their mission to capture Glover.

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After his arrival, he had also been observed to meet with arrived in Boston. Following that rationalization, he Marshal Kearney^ expressed his willingness to return with his master. To con­ Turner showed up at Glover's cabin with a bottle of vince everyone of his willingness to comply, he had to play whiskey—which had been supplied by Garland—a deck of along with a not-uncommon scenario. When Suttle visited cards, and another colored man, William Alby The fact that Burns in his cell, he asked a number of questions such as, slave catchers were known to be in town would almost cer­ "Did I ever whip you, Anthony?" and "Did I not, when you tainly have put Glover on the alert. In addition, there were were sick, take my bed from my own house for you?" The rumors circulating that Glover was romancing Turner's wife. expected answers from Burns would demonstrate Suttle to be If that was true. Glover would perhaps have been even more a kindly master who was always concerned with his bonds­ suspicious of Turner's generosity. He bolted the door of his man's welfare. ' This fictive interplay between master and cabin before sitting down to play cards. He also drank slave thus sometimes served the double purpose of easing the uncharacteristically little that evening. slave's punishment while reassuring the owner that he himself Arriving in the area of the mill, the party left their wagons was a fine fellow. about a hundred yards from the small shanty occupied by It also explains why Glover expressed immediate interest Glover and his companions. As the men stealthily approached in returning to St. Louis with Garland. If Glover had dis­ the cabin, the crunching sounds of their footsteps in the hard closed any deliberate intent to deprive Garland of his serv­ snow somewhat muffled by the nearby rapids of the Root ices, he would almost certainly have received more severe River, Garland readied his pistol. Cotton took out his mana­ punishment upon his return to St. Louis. Many owners also cles, leaving his pistol in his pocket, and Kearney tightened his needed to believe that their slaves were treated fairly, the very grip on the whip he carried. One of the men knocked loudly obvious contradiction presented by slavery's mere existence on the door. As Turner rose to go to the door. Glover was notwithstanding. heard to call out, "Don't open it 'til we know who's there!"^ But however willing Glover might have initially been to Ignoring the warning. Turner drew the bolt and flung return with Garland, there is one way in which he certainly open the door, permitting Garland, Cotton, and Kearney to defied the man who claimed to own him. Whether this was rush in. Glover sprang to his feet and, seizing Garland's hand, conscious defiance remains unknown. On a note appended to attempted to wrest the pistol from him. Seeing the struggle the warrant signed by Marshal S. R. Abelman, Deputy Mar­ between master and slave. Marshal Cotton dealt Glover a shall Cotton wrote, "I have apprehended the within named sharp blow to the head with his handcuffs, causing a severe Joshua Glover and have him in custody, March 11, 1854." An scalp wound. Marshal Kearney, in the meantime, struck additional note dated two o'clock in the afternoon on Satur­ Glover with the butt end of the whip. The force of this com­ day, March 11, 1854, and signed by Judge Andrew Miller bined onslaught drove Glover to the floor, where he lay dazed states: "Ordered that the case of Benammi Garland against and bleeding profusely. While Glover was being subdued, Joshua Glover is set down for hearing on Monday morning at Alby apparently slipped away, leaving Turner as the only ten o'clock."^" These two comments appear to be the first other occupant of the cabin to observe the melee. written evidence ofjoshua having acquired a surname, an act As Glover, his hands manacled, was led by his captors to of defiance in the eyes of the scene's St. Louisans. It also indi­ one of the wagons, he appeared to recognize Garland for the cates that Garland, who had asked that the warrant be issued, first time. Marshal Cotton, in later court testimony, said had to, for the moment at least, accept the fact that his for­ Glover expressed his willingness to return with Garland to St. mer slave had two names. Had Garland been successful in his Louis. When asked by Garland why he had left. Glover said efforts to get Glover back, Joshua would have returned to that he had been on a drinking spree, and that he was away Missouri leaving his surname in Racine. from home from Friday to the next Saturday. When he Back at the site of Glover's capture outside the cabin, the sobered up he left the neighborhood and crossed the Missis­ escaped slave, hatless and in shirtsleeves, was put on the floor sippi because he became afraid that he would be sold down of the open wagon and covered by a buffalo robe, his head the river. between Garland's knees. Blood ran down the side of his face, That slaves learned to say the things they knew their own­ staining his striped shirt. ^ As the occupants of the wagons ers wanted to hear, especially when it might mitigate their prepared to leave, his captors decided not to lodge Glover in anticipated punishment, is further demonstrated by a similar Racine's small jail that night. It was felt that its size, as well as event that took place in the life of Anthony Burns. A fugitive the multitude of abolitionist sympathizers in town, made it slave from Virginia, Burns was captured in May 1854 by his much more vulnerable to an assault in an effort to secure owner, Charles Suttle, in Boston. Asked why he had run Glover's release. They would instead attempt the approxi­ away. Burns told a story about accidentally falling asleep mately twenty-five-mile drive to Milwaukee. One wagon was while working on a ship in the harbor and awakening when it then returned to the livery stable, while the other, with Turner

SPRING 2007 51 WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY also in it, headed north. After it had traveled a short distance, Clement did not limit the news to Racine. He also Turner was let out, and he disappeared into the night."*' telegraphed Sherman Booth, editor of the abolitionist newspa­ Turner's fate following his disappearance from the wagon per the Milwaukee Free Democrat, to inform him of the "kid­ is unknown, as is the amount of compensation he received napping," so that he could alert other abolitionists to the events from Garland for his efforts, which could have been as much about to take place in their city. Booth would play a pivotal role as the two hundred dollars originally offered by Garland in the story, perhaps the most crucial one of all, for he would when he pubHshed his notice regarding Glover's escape. One light the kindling that would fuel the next day's events. report states that Turner was later hung by a group of aboli­ tionists.^^ Another account related that a group, unhappy Notes 1. U.S. Census, Racine County, 1850. with his role in the capture of Glover, had in turn captured 2. Racine Advocate, March 12, 1854. Turner and sold him south."" Whatever his fate, it is clear 3. Milwaukee Sentinel, March 13, 1854. 4. Ibid. from contemporary accounts that he would have been in con­ 5. Radne Advocate, March 13, 1854; Milwaukee Sentinel, March 13, 1854. siderable danger had he remained in town. 6. U.S. Census, Racine County, 1850. 7. Milwaukee Sentinel, March 13, 1854. After letting Turner out, the wagon continued on its 8. Racine Advocate, March 20, 1854. 9. Ibid., March 12, 1854. course to Milwaukee, which had a larger and stronger jail. 10. Ibid. But the journey did not go as planned. Due to the snow and 11. Milwaukee Free Democrat, March 11, 1854; Milwaukee Free Democrat, March, 13, 1854. 12. Radne Advocate, March 25, 1854. ice, darkness, and the need to avoid well-traveled routes, the 13. Ibid, March 13, 1854 party took a wrong turn and spent the rest of the night trying 14. Ibid, March 12, 1854. 15. Milwaukee Sentinel, April 1, 1854. to find their way north to Milwaukee. They eventually 16. Anthony J. Von Frank, The Trials of Anthony Burns: Freedom and Slavery in Emerson's arrived in town about three o'clock in the morning, several Boston (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1998), 131-132. 17. Ibid., 132. hours past their expected arrival time. If the Drinkin' Gourd, 18. National Archives and Research Administration, Great Lakes Region. Records of District Courts, Eastern District of Wisconsin, Milwaukee. Criminal Files 1848-1862. which had guided Glover north, had not been obscured by Warrant March 9, 1854; Racine Advocate, March 23, 1854. the overcast sky, perhaps they would have arrived sooner. 19. Milwaukee Sentinel, March 13, 1854. 20. Radne Advocate, March 12, 1854; Milwaukee Sentinel, March 25, 1854. This might have allowed Garland to complete his business 21. Radne Advocate, March 25, 1854. more quickly and return with Glover to St. Louis with the 22. Radne Advocate, December 9, 1854. 23. Milwaukee Sentinel, March 12, 1854. speed and secrecy he had hoped for. This delay was only one factor in a series of unanticipated events that would very quickly change the course of Glover's story. Around the same time the slave catchers were wandering around the countryside trying to find their way to Milwau­ kee, news of Glover's capture began to circulate through About the Authors Racine. At approximately ten o'clock in the evening, Charles Rice, one of Glover's employers at the mill, rode into town The great-granddaughter of slaves, Ruby West Jackson has and reported to Charles Clement, the editor of the abolition­ worked as a teacher and lecturer, community activist, and cos­ ist newspaper the Racine Daily Advocate, that Glover had tumed interpreter of pioneer black been "kidnapped" from his cabin and was being taken to Mil­ women in Wisconsin. A recipient of the waukee. Clement quickly arranged for a brief article to National Parks Service-Network to Freedom Award, she has served as the appear in his paper on Saturday morning announcing news African American History Coordinator of the capture. Immediately below that bulletin, it was also for the Wisconsin Historical Society reported that the Reverend Zebulon Humphrey, pastor of and has written and consulted fre- | First Presbyterian Church, would give a discourse on "the quently on black history and slave sto­ moral and religious bearings of the Nebraska Question" at ries. Walter T. McDonald spent fifty Sunday services.•^^ The topic was directed at the proposed years as a forensic psychologist. Over Kansas-Nebraska Act, which would allow the voting citizens the course of his thirty-year collabora­ of newly admitted states to elect whether their state would tion with Ms. Jackson, Dr. McDonald allow slavery within its borders. Such a sermon, from a cler­ has mapped Underground Railroad gyman noted for his abolitionist sympathies to a congregation routes into and out of Wisconsin and that required prospective members to swear they had not served as a script consultant for Rope owned slaves, serves to emphasize how seriously many in of Sand, a play about Joshua Glover Racine regarded slavery. It also indicates how the article, and the Fugitive Slave Act commis­ sioned by the Wisconsin Supreme paired with news of Glover's capture, so strongly affected Court for its sesquicentennial. those with abolitionist sympathies in Racine.

52 www.wisconsinhistory.org WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY Letters

Friends,

The painting on this card is a water- color painting from out the window of Frank Lloyd Wright's Taliesin in Spring Green—which I visit when I return to Madison, my original home. Your magazine helps assuage my homesickness.

Thank you. DOROTHY B. SIMON

Editors' Note: William H. Simon gra­ ciously granted permission to reprint this original watercolor, which is the work ofDottie Simon, his zvife, who passed away in November.

Radio Ladies It was such a treat to read about the Radio Ladies. However, Ruth King was a neighbor and although her postal address was Madison she was a Fitchburg resident.

WINNIE LACY representing the Fitchburg Historical Society

The We Say What We Think Club Courtesy of William H. Simon Hi, I have lived in Mountain View This original watercolor painting by Dorothy B. Simon illustrates a view the last 44 yrs, but grew up in Wiscon­ from one of Taliesin s windows. sin and Minnesota. What a terrific article. I am member of WHS and the magazine arrived today. As a new member, this is my second issue. I am going back to La Crosse on Oct. 13 and will bring this and last issue to my 90 year old mother.

SPRING 2007 53 WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

We moved out to the family farm from Winona, MN, to We Want to Hear From You! help my grandfather out in the 1940s. My mother said those were the worst two years of her life. They were among my Email your comments or questions to happiest because we children ran wild and had freedom to [email protected] or send them via mail to: explore. No one knew the trouble we got into. Wisconsin Magazine of History I was 8 when we moved back to Winona, MN. My grandfa­ Wisconsin Historical Society ther had died. My mother worked so hard washing, cooking, 816 State Street working in the fields. I remember we came from a house with a Madison, Wl 53706-1482 gas stove to a wood stove. Mother said one of my Dad's broth­ ers would be in the shade lying under a tree. She would be help­ ing in fields. The men would take off for the beer taverns after. The Wisconsin Historical Society She had so much more work to do. I remember helping her by Board of Curators peeling potatoes for 8 at age 6, etc. It was nice to have a mother at home and I didn't know how hard her work was. Director. Ellsw/orth H. Brow/n John O. Holzhueter, Mazomanie John Kerrigan, Oshkosh After we moved back my parents did factory work. When Officers Helen Laird, Marshfield work day ended my Dad would lie on the couch and have his President: Marl< L. Gajewski Ellen D. Langill, Waukesha beers. Mother's work didn't stop. I missed being on the farm President Elect: Judy Nagel Jerry Phillips, Bayfield Treasurer: Craig Culver Fred A. Risser, Madison because she was home then. Secretary: Ellsworth H. Brow/n John M. Russell, Menomonie What you have written is so true. I can't praise you enough Michael Schmudlach, Brooklyn Board of Curators for revealing how hard the farm women worked. We lived John Schroeder, Milwaukee Betty Adelman, Mukwonago Dale Schultz, Richland Center outside Arcadia, Wl. It was a small town of taverns. Ruth Barker, Ephraim Anne M. West, Whitefish Bay She grew up during the depression outside of Fountain Murray D. "Chip" Beckford, Cascade Carlyle H. "Hank" Whipple, Madison Terese Berceau, Madison City and said those were happy times for her. They had food Mary F. Buestrin, Mequon Ex-officio Board of Curators to eat and played card games. She didn't know they were Thomas E. Caestecker, Kenilworth, IL Riene Wells, President, FRIENDS of poor. Linda Clifford, Madison the Society Thank you. I didn't know anyone cared or had written Kenneth Conger, Kohler Marilyn Canfield, President, William J. Cronon, Madison Wisconsin Council for Local about the farm wife. Laurie Davidson, Marinette History George Dionisopoulos, Milwaukee Bruce T. Block, President, Wisconsin RITA BOLAND NUTILE Victor Ferrall, Orfordville Historical Foundation Via email Ness Flores, Waukesha Ken Frazier, Interim Chief Information Conrad Goodkind, Whitefish Bay Officer, Division of IT, UW-Madison Beverly A. Harrington, Oshkosh

The Wisconsin Historical Foundation Officers Mark D. Laufman, Madison President: Bruce T. Block, Milwaukee Thomas J. Mohs, Madison Vice-President: Walter S. Rugland, Jeffrey D. Riester, Appleton Appleton Peggy A. Rosenzweig, Wauwatosa Treasurer: Rhona E. Vogel, Brookfleld Richard L. Schmidt, West Bend Secretary: Melinda V. Heinritz, David G. Stoeffel, Milwaukee Madison Robert S. Zigman, Mequon Asst. Treasurer & Asst. Secretary: David A. Zweifel, Monona W. Pharis Horton, Madison Emeritus Directors Hartley B. Barker, Scottsdale, AZ Diane K. Ballweg, Madison Thomas H. Barland, Eau Claire Robert M. Bolz, Madison Margaret B. Humleker, Fond du Lac Dennis R. Dorn, Portage Paul F. Meissner, Milwaukee John R. Evans, Verona George H. Miller, Ripon Rockne G. Flowers, Madison Carol T Toussaint, Madison John J. Frautschi, Madison Edwin P. Wiley, Milwaukee Michael R. Gotzler, Madison Henry G. Herzing, Milwaukee Ex-officio Richard H. Holscher, Lake Tomahawk Mark L. Gajewski, Madison The Fall 2006 issue of the Wisconsin Magazine of History Roy C. LaBudde, Milwaukee Judy Nagel, DePere featured articles on the 1920s revolution in women's radio.

54 www.wisconsinhistory.org WISCONSIN MAGAZINE OF HISTORY

WISCONSIN HISTORICAL SOCIETY CORPORATE SPONSORS

The Wisconsin Historical Society is pleased to recognize the following companies who help us preserve and promote Wisconsin's rich heritage. Those marl

To learn how your company can tal^e advantage of the Wisconsin IHistorical Society's Business Partnerships Program, please contact Martha Truby at 608-261-9363 or [email protected].

John IVIuir Partners Robert W. Baird & Company $25,000 and above Webcrafters-Frautschi Foundation* Electronic Theatre Controls, Inc.* Logistics Health, Inc. The Director's Circle Mead Witter Foundation* $1,000-$2,499 Accurate Response Blacl( HsmV. Patrons Alliant Energy Corporation* $10,000-$24,999 Alpha Investment Consulting Group* Alliant Energy Foundation AT&T Foundation (formerly SBC Bliss Communications Foundation) Culver's Frozen Custard Beyer Construction* Gilbane The Boldt Company The Great Circus Parade, Inc. CGSchmidt Construction J.P. Cullen and Sons The Coburn Company* LaFollette Godfrey & Kahn International Truck & Engine Wisconsin Preservation Fund Corporation* Kohler Company* Belle Case La Follette Associates Madison-Kipp Corporation* $5,000-$9,999 The Manitowoc Company* 3M Corporation Marcus Corporation American Girl* Marquette University Appleton Coated Mead & Hunt* Burke Properties Name Badge Productions DEMCO, Inc. and the John E. Wall Old World Wisconsin Foundation Courtesy of Diane Fricken Family Rural Insurance Companies* Foley & Lardner U.S. Bank, N.A.* Forest County Potawatomi Community Uihiein Wilson Architects Milwaukee Journal Sentinel Urban Land Interests* Northwestern Mutual Foundation Windway Foundation* This picture of Ole Evinrude was given to my father, Reinhart Boerner Van Deuren s.c. Wisconsin Energy Corporation S.C.Johnson Wisconsin Physicians Service* Joseph Ebner, who worked at Evinrude Motors during the SpaceSaver Corporation '30s, '40s and '50s. We lived two blocks from the plant, and Vogel Consulting Group Lyman Copeland Draper Supporters during World War II it was building motors for the military. Wisconsin Education Association $500-$999 Council Bank of Prairie du Sac At that time my father was shop superintendent, and he was Ziegler Boelter & Lincoln* on call 24 hours a day. After months of this schedule, the Jackson County Bank* stress took a toll on him and he was given a month's leave. Fredericl< Jacl

SPRING 2007 55 1 Curio

Photographs by Joel Heiman WHS Museum 1962.60.2,a urveying the wilderness to create townships in the lands that would become the Wisconsin Territory was a daunting task. Early surveyors Sbraved deep swamps, rugged terrain, mosquitoes and wild animals—all to take measurements with equipment that, at times, posed problems. Surveyors in the early nineteenth century used magnetic compasses to run north-south lines, but in places like northern Wisconsin, where the ground holds large con­ centrations of iron ore, magnetic compasses were unreliable. In the autumn of 1834, William Austin Burt, a government surveyor, ran into this problem while surveying northern Wisconsin's iron region and set out to find a solution. By the end of 1835, he had invented a solar compass that allowed him to use latitude, the declination of the sun, and the hour of the day to determine true north. Burt patented his invention in 1836 and received an award from the Franklin Institute for his ingenuity. By 1850, the device had become standard equipment for the federal surveyors working in magnetically charged areas. Ironically, one of Burt's greatest achievements was locating the Marquette iron range in Michigan's Upper Peninsula in 1834—a discovery based on readings from a magnetic compass. This particular solar compass was made in the 1840s by Philadelphia instrument maker William J. Young, who had made the patent model for Burt's invention. Surveyor John Garvin Clark used this compass in Wiscon­ sin, Minnesota, Iowa, and Missouri. rielp freserve the fast for the future

May is Historic Preservation and Archaeology Month

Uncovering the history of buildings like these on West Main Street in downtown Evansville may only require removing a few layers to reveal what is underneath. Instead of the plain barn board that once covered 5 W. Main, passersby now enjoy beautiful, large glazed display windows topped by transoms. The Federal Income Tax Credit Project provided the funds for the restoration.

Join your friends and neighbors in celebrating the constructed and archaeologi­ cal histories of your community during Historic Preservation and Archaeology month. From walking tours to presentations, there are events taking place all across Wisconsin this May.

For information on events or how the Wisconsin Historical Society can work with you to identify and protect archaeological sites, ^X^^^;^::^^^ burial places, and historic buildings in Wisconsin, visit our website at www. wisconsinhistor y. org and click on Historic Buildings and Preservation. Photo courtes

he Ice Age National Scenic Trail preserves Wisconsin's geologic past alongside its working rural landscape. Take a walk with James _ Staudacher (above), the first hiker to backpack the entire route, and learn how the trail came to be in Sarah Mittlefehldt's "The Origins of Wisconsin's Ice Age Trail: Ray Zillmer's Path to Protect the Past."

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