North, on a Wing and a Prayer

Clockwise from left: Mad Dog cruises through the San Juan Islands; Ryan “You should Breymaier fixes a cabin window; the “bio boom crutch” and patent- not have pending axe-tiller on Team Bunny Whaler; Team Ketchikan’s Santa to choose Cruz 27; modified Farrier trimarans are a populr choice of vessel between difficult and The elemental rules fit on a cocktail napkin: race 750 miles fun, it has A weird and wonderful collection of boats and sailors from Port Townsend, Washington, to Ketchikan, Alaska. Stop in Victoria, BC, for a taste of Canadian sanity before you slog up to be both.” tackle a tricky 750-mile race in the Pacific Northwest the Inside Passage, including the Johnstone Strait. Tick off the waypoints at Seymour Narrows and Bella Bella. Bring any vessel, as long as it is powered by wind and/or muscle only. Go solo or — Jake Beattie By Dieter Loibner with a platoon of friends. If you are a sail robot, you’re welcome, (race organizer) too. If you’re Alaskan, beaver pelts are no longer considered legal tender for the entry fee. You can stop along the course to hunker The Bermuda Race, the Fastnet, the Sydney-Hobart, the Transpac and the Transat, the down, fix your boat or get supplies. You can ask other racers for and the Vendée Globe—these are the classics of bluewater racing, with epic destinations, famous way- a hand, but you can’t have a coach trailing you with spares, tools, points and treacherous bodies of water that have to be traversed. Now there is a new kid on the block: candy bars or baby wipes. First boat in gets $10,000 in cash, nailed to a hunk of wood. Second gets a set of steak knives. Now humble, weird, a bit awkward, but spunky as hell and proud of it. It’s not yet a classic, but it’s an epic just come hither and sheet in. the same. It’s the Race to Alaska, aka the R2AK, which was inaugurated in 2015 after the idea was hatched This year marked the second running, and 65 entrants fol- lowed the siren song of R2AK, most from the region on both during a long night in the beer tent at Washington’s Port Townsend Wooden Boat festival. sides of the international border, but also someoats from Cali- fornia, the East Coast and one entry from France. “It’s less of a Dieter Loibner and kevin l ight photography blank slate, which was the intrigue of the first edition,” says Jake T Beattie, executive director of the Northwest Maritime Center Barstool fantasies typically have short legs, but not this one, because it tidal rapids, glassy calms, choppy seas and stiff breezes—either in rapid and Grand Poobah of R2AK. “Teams are better prepared and of combines high adventure with high uncertainty. “It’s like the Iditarod on succession or all at once. Thomas Manby, one of the mates in Captain higher caliber, and Version 2.0 has a tighter feel.” More photo a boat, with a chance of drowning, being run down by a freighter, or eaten George Vancouver’s party, who charted these waters in the late 18th choppers and video drones, too. He and race boss, Dan Evans, by a grizzly bear,” is the bold promise of this delicious mess of a boat race century, observed that their ships “stood through the narrow pass, the tide keep a leash on a fleet of mind-boggling diversity, while letting

that espouses self reliance and exposes participants to 50-degree water, rushing along like , it running at least 10 knots an hour.” of courtesy Photos all the elements decide who is worthy and who isn’t.

september 2016 Sail Magazine 30 31 “It’s therapy, I need this breath of fresh air. I’m 67 and who knows how many times I get to do this.” — Bill Gifford (Team Excellent Adventure).

The R2AK fleet sets out from Victoria, British Columbia, The “navigator” aboard Team Hodge (above left); Brian Croll and Ryan at the start of the long leg to Ketchikan, Alaska Wegwitz getting cozy on Team Nordica (above middle); Alula crew memeber Bruno Hansen reflects on the action on the docks (right)

Looking at last year’s results, small trimarans were the rage. They on a much smaller boat, I changed my mind.” The sentimental favorite in 2016 was Alula, a stock F27 trimaran But he also had a looming scheduling conflict in the form of a talk in sail well, offer shelter and can be rowed or pedaled at a decent clip There also were several all-women teams, and two prominent crewed by three sailors who all had lost the use of their legs in ac- New York to help his fundraising effort for bionic exoskeletal legs that when necessary. Some battle-hardened race vets returned with ocean rowers/adventurers, Colin Angus from Victoria, BC, and cidents. Skipper Spike Kane from Liverpool, England, but now based promise to let him walk again. better, faster, beefed-up boats. Then there were the crazies who Mathieu Bonnier from France, who brought custom rowing trima- in Seattle, and his mates Zac Tapec from Hawaii and Bruno Hansen The 40-mile prologue from Port Townsend to Victoria started at brought whatever they found in their backyard. Among these was rans with rigs to challenge the singlehanded record set by from South Africa wanted to give the R2AK a whirl, despite minimal 0605 on the morning of June 23 in a fresh and following breeze. It was Team Hodge fielding Ooozegooze, a ménage of plywood, numerous Roger Mann in 2015. Mann, the R2AK patron saint, raced a stock time on the boat. Foolhardy? Maybe, but these guys don’t want no pity, a tune-up for the full-race participants and a fine daysail for the few rig styles and a stuffed monkey doing the chart work, a dude on a Hobie Mirage Adventure Island trimaran to Ketchikan, cheating his alms or smart-aleck advice. They know how to scrap. “It’ll be a nice trip who only did the first leg. The Strait of Juan de Fuca quickly culled the standup paddleboard, and a solar-powered drone. And then there way out of several calamities that could have landed him in Davey with piña coladas and tiny paper umbrellas,” joked Tapec, a first-tome weakest from the herd, sending them back to the beach, the bar and the was Mad Dog, a fire-engine red modified Marstrom M32 Jones’s locker, like getting swept off the boat at night or pitchpol- racer who played wheelchair rugby for the U.S. Paralympics National workbench, in that order. Mad Dog swiftly dropped over the horizon, from the San Francisco Bay area that could be on the World Match ing onto a remote beach. Yes, this guy walks on water, but he can Team and now does standup (get it?) comedy. Hansen was an expe- flying a hull nearly all the way to to the customs office in Canada. Racing Tour, but came here to exercise one of two options: getting do live surgery too, in front of a shocked crowd, on his own thumb, rienced sailor before getting injured in a carjacking 17 years ago. He Behind them even casual sandbagging could not dispel the notion that the cash or cracking up in spectacular fashion. which he accidentally cut open with a box knife while unpacking his also survived the tsunami in Indonesia in 2004 while on a catamaran lead mines like the 40ft Madrona and the Fox 44 Ocelot, aka Team “If they don’t break, they’ll win,” predicted Ryan Breymaier, who was boat. Alas, this year car trouble halted his advance in Denver, 1,400 by himself, crawling to the bow and cutting loose the anchor. His role Jungle Kitty, two cruiser/racers with large crews, might be in the run- in town to race on John Sangmeister’s modified ORMA 60 miles short of the starting line. on Alula was “floater,” because he is a paraplegic with some mobility. ning for the steak knives. Tritium, a piece of bad assery that once served as a trial horse for the America’s Cup Team Artemis Racing. However, during the delivery from Southern California, the boat suffered Team Tritium abord a Green Culshan, a San Juan 21, was fitted out breakage, so the team borrowed Taniwha, a borrowed F32 SRXC with oars for the race—when the wind didn’t tuned-up F32 SRXC trimaran that was hastily trimaran, a last-minute cooperate, elbow grease did trailered up from San Diego. Also on the Tri- addition to the fleet tium crew was beach-cat champion and R2AK veteran Tripp Burd from the Boston area, who finished fourth with his brother Chris in the first edition on a souped-up Arc 22 cata- maran, straddling the fine line between crazy and catastrophe. “We broke down a lot, but the boat was small enough to tuck into small coves for shelter and repairs,” Burd said. This effort rippled to 2016 and Mad Dog’s entry. “Tripp called me last year and suggested to do this race on the Marstrom,” said owner Randy Miller. “I declined because I didn’t want to The pedal drive system onboard Team Jungle Kitty lose my boat or my life. But after they did it

september 2016 Sail Magazine 32 33 34 september 2016 2 mid-race conjugalvisits:2 Highest numberofalleged (plus ahalfbottleofrum) at thefinishline:133 Number ofbeershandedout numerically vers (2015):Can’tbeexpressed Bar tabofTeamSoggyBea- $22.54 Bar tabof2015winners: tattoos etched:6 Number ofpermanentR2AK Beaver peltscashed:0 of entryfee:3 Beaver peltsreceivedinlieu (Team PorFavor,2015) the race:8-poundsnapper Biggest fishcaughtduring members ofasingleteam:11 championships wonby Highest numberofnational 11/73 years Youngest/oldest participants: Masts broken:2 Mayday responses:1 5.5 knots(JungleKitty) muscle power: Recorded topspeedunder sail: 24knots(MadDog) Recorded topspeedunder Ocelot (keelboat),LOA:44ft Largest boat: NavOcean (drone),LOA:2.5ft Smallest boattocompete: posturing anyway. It doesn’tmatter,it’sall Top reasonforquitting: 58 percent Dropout quota(2015): by the numbers: R2A K

asset,” Millerlaughed. of griefforthat,butitturnedout tobeareal and abucketwithtoiletseat. “Itookalot while. Theyhadfoodandwater forfivedays paigned theboatinNorthwest watersfora Dunphy feltpreparedafterhaving cam- that alsoincludedIanAndrewesandColin compass andasetofpapercharts,thecrew nine handheldGPSunits,ahand-bearing and someratchetstrapsintheirtoolbag,plus Pure madness,ofcourse. an are-you-kidding-menewcourserecord. ring thebellatfinishlinethatannounced Randy MillersteppedashoreinKetchikanto nara.” Ninety-twohoursand13minuteslater, went upandMadDogsimplysaid:“Sayo- gained theharborentrancewheresails miration. Underoarorpedalpowerthefleet their waitingyachtmadefolkscrywithad- to turnhardleftonsmokingtirestoward on wheelchairsandschussingdowntheramp boats. WatchingAluladescendingthesteps outside theEmpressHoteltotheirberthed that sentthecrewsscurryingdownstairsfrom days laterinVictoriawithaLeMansstart wagon’s towline. armpits, forthefirstboattotakesag Churchill’s cigarsandAgathaChristie’s chinery thatbreathestheodorofWinston outboard, thatlegendarybitofBritishma- first boatunder20fttofinish,andaSeagull Racing withatubeofwaterproofepoxy The realcompetitioncommencedthree fered too:$1,000forthe Side betswereof- before midnightthatsameday, 16hoursand and thesilverware.Theydocked aminute the felineswhogotbestof that group Broderna, anF31R-trimaran.Scoreone for raged betweenMadrona,Ocelot andBig ate akick-buttperformance. doused. Itwasaperfectmaneuvertopunctu- in awhisperofbreezeasthemainsailwas red rocketgracefullyglideduptothedock that therewerenobulletsinthechamber.The at 0715AlaskaStandardTime,itwasclear Miller mumbled.ButonThursday,June30, enaded bytheterrorbird.“Russianroulette,” on awingandprayer,whilebeingser- toward thefinishline;sailing,quiteliterally, wan lightoftheGPSscreenguidingthem night at20knots.Nomoon,nostars,justthe with MadDoghurtlingthroughthesub-polar pitchpoled, capsizedorlosthimovertheside. to beablecuthiswayoutofthebagifthey my hand,”theskipperexplained.Hewanted part wasabitscarysoIsleptwithknifein which makesforalousysleeppattern.“That tacks forcedfrequentswitchingofsides, attached tothewing.Unfortunately,frequent of therace,tuckedintoabivvysackthatwas five orsixhourspersailoroverthecourse went home.”Sleep?Totallyoverrated.Maybe daylight hours.“Andatnightthelogssimply not anissue,Millerinsisted,atleastduring Driftwood, thescourgeofsailinghere,was sync withthetidesatallchokepoints. Behind themthebattlefor steakknives The white-knuckleportioncameattheend, They sailedwithoutpitstopsandwerein

map by pip hurn Seascape 18withraceveteran Thomas Nielsenatthehelm,whoin- bought offtheoriginalowner for $500;Searunner,asinglehanded owfax, asinglehandedHobie16from 1974thatskipperDanIsaacson eclectic groupofboatsbanded togetherforaraid-stylecruise:Shad- it outforhundredsofmiles.In theback,indepartmentofgrit,an ran, andHotMess,anOlson30.Theylockedhorns earlyonandduked calmer homestretchtoKetchikan. ter shelvesandstrongcurrentsstirthingsupdramaticallybefore the steep wavesasMadronaapproachedDixonEntrance,whereunderwa - gusted tothe30sandspeedopeakedinmid-teenswhile surfing especially duringadiceystretchinHecateStrait.There,the breeze skiff sailorDaltonBergan.Theboat,designedbyCarl,was up tosnuff, the FlyingDutchman,hissonJamieandothertalentedmates, like whose crewincludedCarlBuchan,the1984Olympicchampion in the trimarans’honor,buthadtofightfinishhold off Madrona, choices earlyoncouldmakeorbreaktherace.BigBrodernasalvaged do alright,”addedskipperBenGlass,whoalsopointedoutthatrouting [sailing] wefeltlikewould showed threedaysofupwind Mad Dog,sowhentheforecast every otherboatupwindexcept were prettysurewecouldbeat pedals formoreefficiency.“We the contraptionwithoffset Anthony Boscolo,whodesigned under legpoweralone,”noted the wayoutofVictoriaHarbor the difference. “riders” simultaneouslymade could bemannedbyuptofour twin-screw pedaldrivethat Having eightcrewandaclever 44 minutesbehindMadDog. There wereotheroddduels:forexample,betweenFly,anF27trima - “We recorded5.5knotson with asecond-place finish (note thetilted-up pedal Team Jungle Kitty, seen Victoria, BC, endedup drives onthestern) here atthestart in (Team Nordica)onhowheconvincedhis think thisis “She might a glorified — RyanWegwitz wife tolethimdoR2AK. derby.” fishing

include Sail, Berlin Wall. He’s worked asareporter andeditor for publications that Dieter Loibner started asaboating journalist back before thefall of the being eatenbyagrizzlybear.s nothing aboutachanceofdrowning,beingrundownbyfreighter, or find, aswedid,thatyouwillbebetterfromtheexperience.” To say you’re soinclined,weencourageyoutosignupandhaveago. You’ll “The RacetoAlaskaisaremarkableassemblyofpureenthusiasm. If that counts,”Tritium-bossSangmeisterwroteinasocialmedia post. of Ruby,skipperRyanBreymaier’sseconddaughter. time constraintsduetobusinesscommitmentsandtheimminent birth and morethanTritiumhadtoshowafterpullingoutoftherace,citing sail toKetchikan.Ifsuccessful,it’savictoryforthespiritofthisevent Mail OrderBride,volunteeredtotaketurnsinhelpingSpikeandZac Eastham, skipperofItAin’tBrainSurgeryandMorganTedrowfrom the newsmaderounds,twosailorswhoalreadyhadfinished, Race-to-Alaska camaraderiesprangintoaction:Withinhoursafter decided toleavetheboatforhistalkinNewYork.Butproverbial Wegwitz deadpannedwhenaskedwhyhedoesit. pangs ofmidlifecrisis.“It’scheaperthanaCorvetteand20-yearold,” Croll fromVancouverIsland,whoenteredtheracetoalleviate smallness inside;”andTeamNordicawithRyanWegwitzBrian 6M forthistrip,“aboatthatmakesupthelackofcolorwithits Team SquamishwiththreeCanadianadventurerswhochoseaYoung axe asatillerand“bioboomcrutch”madefromdriftwoodbranches; two beardedbrotherswhosailaBostonWhalerdinghythatfeaturesan Bull andwhiskey;BunnyWhaler,theteamofCooperNateRooks, formed theworldviaFacebookofhischoiceadultbreakfast—Red information onthe next runningof the R able Sailing andtherevision of Sailing BigonaSmallSailboat.For more the R folly withsailboats, includingtheOlympicGames, the “Success isnotfinal,failurefatal,itthecouragetocontinue Alula lookedliketheyhadtodropoutinCampbellRiverafterBruno ace to Alaska. Books by L Soundings, NavOcean’s Scott Duncan (left) talks withtheauthor Sailing andClassic Boat, covering every conceivable oibner includeTheFolkboat Story, ace to Alaska, visitr2ak.com America’s Cupand S ail Magazine Sustain- 35