Destination Unknown

WORLD OF BIRDS Destination unknown can regularly hold up to six species Herzegovina isn’t on the travel radar for many, whether for birding or a of woodpecker, including Wryneck, family holiday. But when Neil Bowman took a five-day trip to this unspoilt Syrian Woodpecker and, the one I see most rarely these days, Lesser Spotted. corner of south-eastern Europe, he discovered a destination filled with We managed five species – a great hit birds impossible or difficult to encounter in Britain and Ireland. rate – together with a nice Hoopoe. Since our visit Denis has contacted me to say that he has found a nest site there occupied by a mixed pair of Syrian and Great Spotted Woodpeckers, which surprisingly is not as uncommon as I would have thought.

The only way is up From this lowland start the only way was up, and up we went on to the Podvelezje plateau. The big attraction here was to finally get a glimpse of the elusive Rock Partridge. Although a close relative of Chukar and Red- The vast Sand Martin colony near the village of Buna was awash with thousands of birds. legged and Barbary Partridges, Rock Partridge is by far the hardest to see. we took a walk through the city to a local a stunning backdrop of snow-covered I well remember my first visit to the churchyard for some after-dinner owling. peaks, alpine pasture and scattered Balkans in the late ’80s to Montenegro, This produced superb views of Eurasian woodland, a different cast of birds was and trying unsuccessfully on a number Scops Owl perched on a rooftop, as well set to captivate us. of occasions to track down this difficult as calls from a close-by Barn Owl. At this altitude Eurasian Nuthatches species; it was not until a few years The next morning dawned with a replaced yesterday’s Western Rock later, in northern Greece, that I finally clear blue sky and light winds. With such Nuthatches, and were joined in the laid the ghost to rest. superb conditions, a trip to the high wooded areas by some very cheeky Our first stop was at a valley high mountains was planned. However, our Crested Tits, as well as that south-east in the hills. Here we could hear the day started with a visit to an abandoned European speciality, Sombre Tit. This partridge, but it could not even be grain store on the outskirts of Mostar, last species really put on a show when it glimpsed. The valley, however, was where a flock of Alpine Choughs had flew over us and proceeded to sing from a lovely spot, buzzing with birdlife. A moved in for the winter and was yet to an overhead power-line. On a more pair of Western Rock Nuthatches were Rock Partridge is one of the region’s star return to the high pastures. The choughs open mountainside, a splendid male conspicuously holding territory, with species. Usually hard to see, this fine male duly performed, entertaining us as they Rock Bunting sang from a pine tree, the male entertaining us by singing, not posed for some stunning photos. flew around the urban landscape. accompanied by the jingling song of a from a rock, but instead perched in a Tearing ourselves away from this European Serin. tree. Then a scratchy song of a Sylvia hen I mentioned that I quite so easily. Black-eared Wheatears The scenic Prenj mountains are home to a playful spectacle, we headed up into Our second morning was to find us warbler drew our attention to a big and was going to Herzegovina, were common in the hills, though, with variety of alpine species. Sombre Tit (inset) the scenic Prenj mountains, in summer at woodpecker central. This site was bold male Eastern Orphean Warbler, Wthe reaction from most both dark- and light-throated forms was one of the many highlights. home to the very Alpine corvids we an area of largely open woodland on another species not always easy to of my friends was: “Where’s that?” represented. had just been watching. Here, against the banks of the Buna River. This spot see, but this one decided to put on a Herzegovina represents the southern At this point Denis mentioned that a portion of Bosnia and Herzegovina, nearby abandoned railway tunnel held a one of the recently created countries substantial colony of roosting bats, and that came into being after the break- we decided that this was too good an up of Yugoslavia. Despite its troubled opportunity to miss. The adventurous start it is now a friendly and welcoming among the group, torches in hand, destination. headed into the tunnel. After about 50 I was met at Dubrovnik airport by metres, we found some large groups of Denis Bohm of Wild Herzegovina, guide Greater Mouse-eared Bats squeezed for our small group for the next five days. into holes in the limestone ceiling. This The drive from the airport took us up is a very rare bat in Britain, and it was into the rugged coastal mountains, and stunning to see such large numbers. here we made our first stop to sample Back at the tunnel entrance these the wildlife. Among the roadside crags mammalian distractions were countered we soon located a pair of Western Rock by the aerial antics of Crag Martin, Red- Nuthatches, complete with their rather rumped Swallow and Alpine Swift. House Martin-like mud nest, built safely We were based in the ancient city of under a projection on the rock face. Mostar, where we dined each evening One of the star birds of these barren overlooking the River Neretva. Here rocky slopes is Rock Partridge, but this Dipper, Grey Wagtail and an assortment

ALL PHOTOS: NEIL BOWMAN notoriously difficult species would not fall of bats put on a splendid sideshow. Twice ❯

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Eurasian Scops Owl (above left) was seen perched on the roofs of buildings in the capital city, Mostar, while this male Western Rock Nuthatch (above right) entertained the group by singing from a tree on the Podvelezje plateau just outside the city. grand show singing away from the top of Fine time the show from a bee-eater, but on this day nearby bushes. Our final day started with a visit to the hirundines took it hands down. The partridge quest continued until what, in my opinion, was one of the Our next port of call was the ancient late in the day, when we were gathered finest ornithological spectacles I have Dervish monastery in Blagaj village. on top of an exposed ridge. Finally a pair experienced. The site in question was a This is one of those classically beautiful was sighted way down below, moving relatively new and active sand quarry near sites, with the village hunkered close at through and soon vanishing into the the village of Buna. As soon as we stepped the base of a limestone cliff and its river low vegetation. Feeling pleased with from the van the air was abuzz with birds. flowing out of a cave The birds did not ourselves, we headed down the mountain We were in the middle of the biggest disappoint either, with Blue Rock Thrush only to find another partridge casually Sand Martin colony I have ever seen. The singing from the cliff, while Crag Martins crossing the road in front of our van. quarry face was pockmarked with active and Alpine Swifts swooped around the A quick stop and we were to meet one nests, and I estimated some 2,000 pairs of skies and Dipper and Grey Wagtail fed Rock Partridge that had not read the birds swarmed around. The whole flock along the bubbling river. book. For the next 10 minutes or so it often flew just feet above our heads. When On we went, this time to visit Hutovo entertained us, moving around, perching the birds left the cliff-face during ‘dreads’ Blato marshlands with, at its heart, a on a number of rocks and scree slopes – a sudden take-off and flight of a flock large shallow reservoir. Although the and even crossing the road twice more. of birds – they would fly in a tight group, delightful Pygmy Cormorants were the Day four of this action-packed tour was and the noise from their beating wings stars, there were also good numbers of to include a visit to Croatia’s Dalmatian was quite phenomenal. herons, including Purple and Squacco, coast, although our first stop after leaving Interestingly, numbers landed around Cattle Egrets and plenty of Glossy Ibises. Mostar was at the Mostarsko Blato dumped waste in the quarry to collect Wildfowl included Garganey, Ferruginous karst field. This extensive wetland was nesting material, not something I had Duck and Red-crested Pochard, while unusually dry; nevertheless there were ever really thought they did. A small Whiskered Terns danced over the water. still numbers of waders along the streams number of European Bee-eaters were also There was also a good range of wader and open lakes. It was not the waders breeding at the site. It is not often that I species, with the best spectacle being that captured our attention, though, can honestly say that any bird can steal provided by a flock of several hundred but the numbers of raptors, particularly Ruff which swirled around right in front the several dozen gorgeous Red-footed HERZEGOVINA of us on one occasion. Falcons that were either hunting over the As we returned to the airport for our VISITING fields or just resting on the low bushes or • For Wild Herzegovina tours and information see flights home, the skies opened up and even on the unmetalled track. Throw a www.wild-herzegovina.com or email info@wild- we saw our first rain, but even then number of Montagu’s Harriers, including herzegovina.com. the birds kept coming, with our first • There are several non-stop flights to Dubrovnik, at least one pristine male, into the mix Croatia, from British airports. From there it is Common Swifts and a Woodchat Shrike and you have a very happy group of around a 2.5-hour drive to Mostar, Herzegovina. as roadside birds. birders. • Visit Herzegovina: www.herzegovina.travel/en/. Herzegovina may be little known in Next stop was Croatia. We were FURTHER READING western Europe, but for a visiting birder Collins Bird Guide by Lars Svensson, Killian visiting the delta of the Neretva River. Mullarney and Dan Zetterström (HarperCollins, it has one hell of a lot to give, and all set A windy but sunny day produced good £19.99) – order for £16.99 from the Birdwatch in a stunningly beautiful and affordable numbers of birds, including a very Bookshop at bit.ly/bw301Collins. country. ■ obliging Great Reed Warbler singing in a ONLINE RESOURCES small reedbed and numbers of waders in For an illustrated list of birds recorded in Bosnia Acknowledgements and Herzegovina: www.world-birds.com/ the estuary, all set against the backdrop birds/a/bosnia-and-herzegovina. Birdwatch travelled as a guest of Wild

ALL PHOTOS: NEIL BOWMAN of a beautiful undeveloped coastline. Herzegovina.

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