Wet Tropics World Heritage Area Magazine 2007-2008

Aboriginal people have used fi re in traditional The Wet Tropics Management Authority’s land management for thousands of years. Fire Conservation Offi cer, Bill Carrodus, said that the has had a practical and spiritual role in Aboriginal Parks and Wildlife Service (QPWS) culture, being used as a tool for hunting, clearing manages fi re in much of the Wet Tropics World the landscape and promoting new growth of Heritage Area. “As well as working with rural fi re particular plants. The landscape was burnt often brigades to control wildfi res and protect human in a mosaic of seasonal fi res - some only burning life and property, the QPWS uses fi re to help grasses and understorey plants, others reaching conserve biodiversity.” the tree tops. Traditional fi re management, along “Controlled burns reduce the intensity of fi res with wildfi res, has shaped the way our native and are usually done earlier in the year to help plant and animal communities have evolved in prevent wildfi res. In some areas, controlled burns the Wet Tropics. are only done every couple of years to break up Over the last 50 to 100 years traditional the country a bit and to encourage regeneration Aboriginal burning has decreased dramatically. of a particular species. If an appropriate fi re Already there have been marked changes in wet regime is not maintained, rainforest pioneer sclerophyll forests on the western edges of the species can quickly become established in wet World Heritage Area which have been invaded by sclerophyll forests at the expense of native grass rainforest species. These wet sclerophyll forests cover,” he said. are more open than rainforests and dominated “The QPWS is continually monitoring the effects by rose gums and red mahoganies. They form of fi re on different ecosystems. To conserve a transitional zone up to four kilometres wide biodiversity fi re management has to adapt to between the rainforests and open savanna changing conditions such as climate change, woodlands. Wet sclerophyll forests currently cyclone damage and weed invasions.” occupy about 54,000ha of the Wet Tropics, less than half their original extent. These changes are “Community education is important. People often irreversible. Once the rainforest becomes need to understand that fi re is often friendly and well established it will no longer burn and the necessary. The landscape may look blackened dominant eucalypts cannot reproduce without and bare after a fi re, but that may be necessary an open, sunlit forest fl oor. These wet sclerophyll for the long term survival of its animals and forests are home to a range of endangered plants,” Bill said. animals such as the yellow bellied glider and northern bettong. They are also used by Above: The giant rainforest animals such as cassowaries at certain eucalypts of the wet times of the year. sclerophyll forests (Photo: Campbell Clarke)

Left: Yellow bellied glider (Photo: Andrew Dennis)

Left: A controlled burn (Photo: EPA)

6 Wet Tropics World Heritage Area Magazine 2007-2008

World Heritage Walks JosephineJosephine FFallsalls

Josephine Falls

For a cool respite from the heat, nothing can near the track and picnic area and dart off into quite compare to a dip at in deeper rainforest as you approach. Look for Wooroonooran National Park. The swimming Bowenia spectabalis, a member of the primitive Brush turkeys are common near Josephine Falls hole and picnic area provide a fun day for cycad family, that was around 350 million years the whole family. Although Josephine Falls is ago. Run your hands over the imposing boulders days. Contact the QPWS if you’re thinking about spectacular all year round, swimming is not safe stained with green moss that encroach on the embarking on one of these walks. You may need in the wet season or after periods of heavy rain gently sloping walking track. a camping permit. - slippery rocks and strong currents become If you gaze skyward, you may be able to see Back near the swimming hole, stairs down the hazardous. We suggest swimming at Josephine how the rainforest is recovering from Cyclone embankment provide access to the gorge. The Falls in the dry season from April to October. In Larry. Larry was a category fi ve cyclone that tore boulders are smooth, weathered by years of the wet season, from November to March, enjoy through this area of World Heritage rainforest rushing water. As a result they make great spots the walking tracks and lookouts. in March 2006, leaving splintered and broken to sit! Inhale the fresh scent of damp rainforest As you walk from the car park, along the sealed rainforest in its wake. Many trees have regrown, before plunging into the sparkling water. As you track and into the forest, the world seems to but you should still be able to see some large fl oat on your back in bliss, don’t forget to take in stand still. Surrounded by rainforest, the noise of holes in the rainforest canopy and broken the view – what a treat! traffi c is replaced with bird calls and the sound branches caused by the 290kph winds. Trees of rushing water. As you’re walking, listen for the that fell onto the path were cut and returned to distinct call of the chowchilla. This little bird has a the forest. Check it Out big voice and warbles its name Eventually the rainforest path leads to the The Josephine Falls turn off is on the Bruce ‘chow-chilla, chowry chook boulder-strewn gorge and Josephine Creek. Highway about 68km south of , near the chook.’ WWatchatch out Before your swim, take the short walking track small town of Mirriwinni. It’s about an 8km drive to for brush turkeys. to the lookout over Josephine Falls. The viewing the carpark. They like to forage deck is a great spot for a photo. Josephine FFallsalls • Contact the QPWS Wooroonooran National Park is also the starting point for a number of hikes - Josephine Falls Section, Bartle Frere Road, up Mt Bartle FrereFrere ranging from 8 hours to 2 Bartle Frere Ph (07) 4067 6304. • Visit the WTMA website: www.wettropics.gov.au ‘Walks’ section. Far left: Bowenia spectabilis • Visit the EPA website: www.epa.qld.gov.au and Left: The noisy chowchilla (male) look up ‘Josephine Falls’ in the parks section.

Photos: Josephine Falls - Campbell Clarke; brush turkey - Mike Trenerry; chowchilla - Ian Montgomery; Bowenia spectabilis - WTMA. 7 Creek in the dry season. The Yidinji Aboriginal people, Traditional Owners for the area, tell Beautiful the story of Oolana, a beautiful young Yidinji woman who haunts the Boulders. Oolana was chosen to marry a respected elder in the Yidinji tribe, but fell in love with a handsome young man from a visiting tribe. The two decided to elope but were later discovered in the valley by the water’s edge. Oolana’s Babinda handsome lover was dragged away and in BabindaBBabinda Bouldersa lies adjacentb to the Weti Tropicsn the nearbyd Bellenden Kera Range sends water despair she threw herself into the water. As World Heritage Area and is a popular swimming thundering down the gorge. she struck the water, crying for her lost lover, hole at the base of Queensland’s highest the land shook with terror and sorrow. Water Despite numerous warning signs that the area mountain, (1622m). exploded and boulders surged upward from is unsafe for swimming, at least 16 people deep underground and Oolana became In the dry season the swimming hole at the have drowned at Devil’s Pool. Locals believe one with the landscape. Aboriginal legend Boulders is tranquil and the crystalline mountain unrecorded deaths make this number much says that it is Oolana’s spirit that takes the waters entice you to take a dip. The Boulders higher. Walking across the rocks or swimming young men who drown in Babinda Creek as is a perfect place for a family picnic. You in pools upstream may look quite easy, but she searches for her lost love. can also enjoy two very different walks - one one slip and you can be washed downstream. meandering through the rainforest upstream and Unpredictable strong currents, submerged one downstream along the creek to the scenic logs and debris, and twisting caverns under waterfalls and sink holes. The sinkholes are not the boulders are the hidden dangers that have safe for swimming. claimed so many lives. Strangely all of the unfortunate folks drowned in Devil’s Pool have In the wet season thrashing white foam weaves been young male visitors. Perhaps they were full through the granite boulders that lie scattered of bravado and did not heed the warning signs. along Babinda Creek, creating dangerous eddies Or perhaps they were lured there by the calls of and currents. With an annual rainfall of over 4.5m, Oolana for her lost lover (see story on right). Babinda - A small town with a big heart by Lana Lopatich Last surviving member of the Yidinji clan, The sleepy town of Babinda sits adjacent to the Ann Wonga, at the Babinda Information Centre. , relatively unaffected by the fast pace and stress of our modern society. This If you would like to know more about beautiful small town, located 60km south of Aboriginal folklore in the Babinda area, Cairns, is central to the sugar industry but is also contact the Babinda Information Centre. the gateway to beautiful World Heritage rainforest. They have a number of books on display. The Babinda Information Centre looks like You might get to meet the last surviving a turquoise jewel on the edge of the Bruce member of the Yidingi clan, Ann Wonga. Highway. Tourism information, brochures and Ann has been a volunteer at the Babinda Left to Right – Information Centre Manager, Fay books adorn every available piece of wall space Visitor Information Centre for over 10 years. Rowe, with volunteers Rose Sneddon, Pat Fisher in the quaint little house. The centre exudes the She received a Cassowary Award in 2006 and Elaine Lauridsen. charm of the friendly ‘old Queenslander’ style and for her contribution to raising awareness staff are always ready for a yarn. In recognition “We have worked for over ten years to make the about Aboriginal culture in the World of their excellent service, Babinda Information visitor centre a success. We provide a wide range Heritage Area. Centre received a Queensland Visitor Information of information for areas around us, as well as the Centre Award in 2006. Boulders, Josephine Falls and national parks.” Visitor Centre Manager, Fay Rowe, attributes the “Although things have been much quieter since Check it Out centre’s success to the cheerful disposition of Cyclone Larry, the effects of the cyclone cannot the 21 volunteer staff. “We all consider ourselves dampen our spirits. Now the town has fi nally Babinda Information Centre one big happy family. We make every one of the been cleaned up we’re back, smiling like nothing Munro Street, Babinda. n r e 10,000 people that visit each year very welcome. happened,” Fay added. f Ph: 07 40671008 or g n email: [email protected]. i K Photos: Babinda Creek - Campbell Clarke; Ann Wonga - Deanna Belbin; Information Centre volunteers - Lana Lopatich. 10 Wet Tropics World Heritage Area Magazine 2007-2008 A living museum Walking into the Wet Tropics rainforests is like Jindalba Boardwalk in the Daintree. Feral pigs Right: Layered stepping back in time. Our tropical forests are cause damage to this species in the Wet Tropics tassel fern packed with ancient plants that have survived when they gnaw through the roots, tip the plant relatively unchanged for millions of years. Some over and eat the starchy centre and roots. plant species evolved long before dinosaurs fi rst roamed the earth. Tassel ferns Tassel ferns and club mosses are lycopods, The Wet Tropics has the oldest, continually the most ancient group of vascular land plants surviving rainforests on the planet. They are a (plants that transport water and nutrients living record of the major stages in the evolution es or internally). Despite their names they are not p of plants. The rainforests here have more primitive s closely related to either ferns or mosses. They k c plant species than any other area on earth. a do not have distinctive fronds, but bear leaves l B Ferns were one of the very fi rst land plants and that are usually small and spiralled along a Australia’s richest concentrations of ferns are branching stem. Most tassel ferns are epiphytes, found in the Wet Tropics. Four out of fi ve of living on tree branches with hanging stems. Australia’s unique fern families and over 250 Some species have long clubs, hanging like species of ferns grow in our forests. Out of the tassels from the ends. These tassels produce 250 fern species, we have 46 that are endemic. spores and new plants. Of the 18 species of They are found nowhere else in the world. The tassel ferns in Australia, the Wet Tropics has 12 Wet Tropics is a portal to a time when ancient species, three of which are found nowhere else ferns dominated the landscape over 400 million in the world. All of the Queensland tassel ferns years ago. are rare and threatened plants. One species, the blue tassel fern (Huperzia dalhousieana), King fern was so rare it was thought to be extinct. After Angiopteris evecta two years of searching, Ashley Field, a tropical These ancient ferns can be identifi ed by their biology PhD student at James Cook huge fronds that grow from a short barrel-like UniversityUniversity,, discovered the fern growing trunk. It is thought these fronds are the longest in in rainforest treetops in north Above: An endangered the fern world, reaching up to 7m long. The king Queensland. Scientists think the species of fi lmy fern fern is the only species of the ancient Angiopteris fern could be used to help cure (Chingia australis) and a genus in Australia, but it does occur elsewhere in Alzheimer’s disease. close-up of its black spores southeast Asia and Oceania. King ferns are quite common throughout the they are a relatively Filmy ferns F new fi nd. They have i l WetWet Tropics.Tropics. Some Filmy ferns get their name m

y fronds up to 2.5m long magnifi cent because of their thin, delicate f e and trunks that can grow r examples leaves. Their leaves are only n can be one cell thick – about the same up to 60cm tall and 10cm seen at thickness as the fi ne waxy skin in diameterdiameter.. They were fi rst the between the layers of an onion! Because collected in 1979 and described they are so delicate, fi lmy ferns are limited as a new species in 1986. It’s thought to growing in damp, misty areas of tropical there are only about 500 Chingia australis plants rainforests. With their thin fronds, the ferns are within the World Heritage Area, located around very susceptible to drying out. However, many Wooroonooran National Park south of Cairns species can survive dehydration, remaining dry and the Daintree National Park near Mossman and shrivelled for weeks or months and springing and Cape Tribulation. They are identifi able by back to life when the next rains fall. Most of the distinct patterns of black spores on the these ferns are epiphytic, relying on other trees underside of their fronds (pictured). to support their growth, although some species Acknowledgement: Peter Bostock (Queensland grow on the ground as well. They are usually Herbarium) who provided expert advice on fi lmy found in high altitude rainforest where it is nearly ferns and Chingia australis, and Ashley Field always damp. (JCU Tropical Biology Unit) for his assistance with tassel ferns. n An endangered species of fi lmy fern, Chingia r e f australis, is endemic to Wet Tropics lowland g n i rainforests and found on steep creek banks and K sloping ridges. Amazingly for such large plants,

Photos: King fern & layered tassel fern - Mike Trenerry; fi lmy fern & Chingia australis - Peter Bostock. 11