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Ipoh is on the cusp of town development, but its direction isn’t clear. Conversations with stakeholders reveal a sense of commitment to retaining the identity of a town that made its fortune and reputation in tin mining, but without a unified that vision for the city, how will cope with modernisation? Who benefits and who doesn’t? And will the city retain its unique heritage in the face of increasing change? was Words by Shermian Lim Photographs by Kevin Teh that is

94 ESQUIRE DECEMBER 2014 ESQUIRE DECEMBER 2014 95 Brilliant ideas have been conceptualised over Previous spread Any news of development plans that could benefit a better. Critics have voiced frustration over the lack commercial activity there; but without a collective ef- Aerial view of Ipoh in many a pint of lager, and Ian Anderson’s quest to pre- the late ’60s. town is always a welcoming and heartening thing—or of action by the Ipoh City Council to address the fort, unchecked decay has set into parts of the lane. serve Ipoh’s rich historical significance began just is it? issue of buildings that have fallen down, or fol- Meanwhile, private developers continue to Top left like that. The British Royal Navy veteran from Glas- Panglima Lane low through with a well-defined town develop- build high-rise properties on the back of a recent circa 1948: wealthy gow recalls being pictured in a local newspaper 10 tin-mining towkays ment plan that nurtures a local economy. Years housing boom in Ipoh. These properties are tar- years ago, grumbling about the lack of concern over visited their Between a rock and a tin place of wasted opportunities, critics claim, have de- geted mainly at overseas investors and have cre- mistresses who Ipoh’s heritage, while having a mug of beer. “So, peo- lived on this tiny The Ipoh that we have come to be familiar with in the prived Ipoh of an economic revival that would ated a demand for land, including those occupied ple came to me and said, ‘Why don’t you do something street, earning past 30 years is quite different from the Ipoh that was also resurrect the liveliness of the city. Thomas by low-income residents. Kulasegaran represents it the nickname about it?’” he recalls. “Concubine Lane”. once the heart of a thriving economy, driven by a very Su, the MP for Ipoh Timur, credits the government a group of 60 Indian families living in Kampung Tai And he did. Anderson, who is now 75 and has long It was also a hub of lucrative tin-mining industry in 1800s . Af- for creating a programme to turn into an educa- Lee, an area that was one of the first Indian settle- business activity. called Ipoh home, began collecting items related to the ter tin resources ran out around the ’70s, Ipoh transi- tion hub, but says it has yet to take off in Ipoh. Perak Top left ments in the country. Now that it’s considered prime, city’s history. They were placed under the care of Ipoh Top right tioned into a state of small-town tranquillity, marked towns like Kampar and Teronoh, according to Su, have New Town Police inner-city land, “rubbish has become gold”. The owner Ipoh’s railway station Station in the World, a non-profit organisation he founded that is in the ’70s: often by a mass exit of residents and businesses into the sur- reaped the benefits of having major universities, UTAR ’70s: its traditional wants it back, and set litigation in motion to evict the currently supported by Tenby Schools, a private edu- nicknamed the “Taj rounding suburbs, or out of Perak entirely; but an old- and Petronas respectively, in their backyards. “But we kampung façade has families years ago. The livelihood of these families, Mahal of Ipoh”, it been replaced with a cation institution based in Ipoh. The collection, which was designed by world charm remained. Locals don’t hesitate to return could see more of this,” Su says. “Once you bring in an modern design. Kulasegaran says, is “centred in and around Ipoh”. Arthur Benison has grown to more than 7,300 items, includes a vast ar- Hubback, who also a smile and help visitors find their way around with education centre, it will spur the local economy.” Top right Most of them walk or motorcycle to work, and they are ray of documents, contracts, city plans, artefacts from designed KL’s old genuine patience. The spirit of community still exists, Even immediate and viable opportunities for Ip- Han Chin Pet Soo the third or fourth generation of their respective fami- railway station. clubhouse, 1959: the city’s tin mining glory days, private collections of as evidenced by bus drivers greeting passengers on a oh’s revitalisation have not been capitalised upon. founded in 1893, the lies, living in an ancestral home that is more than 100 photographs sent by individuals, and even childhood Above right first-name basis. The food scene here is dominated by M Kulasegaran, the MP for Ipoh Barat, recalls a devel- club was exclusively years old, with artefacts as proof of how people lived in Majestic Theatre in for Hakka tin miners. stories that have been compiled into a book. the ’50s: a developer hawkers peddling local favourites—most notably tau opment plan conceived in 2004 for Sungai Kinta, the that village back then. Although he admits it will be a Ipoh World’s most recent major exhibition was who bought the land foo fah, tauge ayam and Ipoh’s most high-profile ex- river that runs through Ipoh. The riverfront was to be Above tough sell, Kulasegaran is trying to push through a bill has demolished it, Ian Anderson held in May last year at House—a beautifully despite protests and port, white coffee—in traditional kopitiams, despite the developed into a commercial and entertainment centre of Ipoh World. in Parliament to ratify Kampung Tai Lee with herit- a stop-work order restored, sprawling ’20s-era home that once belonged from the Ipoh City emergence of modern cafés around the Old Town area. in three stages, bringing foot traffic via rail transit to age status, a move that will benefit a group of people to a prominent tin-mining towkay—and ended that Council. Along Yau Tet Shin Street, the only street abuzz with shops, a park, kayaking and other water activities. “It caught in the crossfire of modern development. August, just months before the Ipoh City Council re- evening activity, rows of fat, bright green pomelos—a was a very welcome idea,” Kulasegaran says. “In fact, I Kampung Tai Lee highlights a key issue Ipoh faces vealed ambitious plans for the city. Under the Ipoh beloved Ipoh citrus fruit that resembles a giant, unripe even went for briefings and all that.” Since then, nothing in riding these discussions on development: whom does Special Area Draft Plan, Perak state’s local government orange—hang from raffia string or on the shelves of bis- has happened and the riverfront remains untouched, it really benefit? “There’s hardly any big investment that pledged to carry out “Entry Point Projects” that target cuit shops. Many rows of colonial shophouses, out of except for multi-coloured plastic tree lights lining the would be good for people that is worth talking about,” various improvements, including the conservation of which businesses operate, have withstood decades of riverbank in front of Kinta Riverfront Hotel, paid for Su says. “But we have a lot of natural resources, caves heritage sites, the redevelopment of idle land, the up- dirt and grime on their weather-beaten walls, even as by the hotel management themselves. Plans to spruce and food—these are the things we can use to grow. We grading of the city’s infrastructure, and the creation of others have fallen into disrepair, abandoned or ignored up Panglima Lane, an important tourist jaunt on Ipoh’s should be concentrating more on tourism, that is our green spaces. The plan appears to be timely, encour- by disinterested owners. Any Malaysian taking a walk heritage trail, also met the same fate. Funding had been niche, and it can be promoted better.” But Haji Ibrahim aged by the economic success of UNESCO heritage- through the Old Town would agree that the city’s vibe allocated years ago, but the local council has yet to Seddiqi bin Talib, State Director of Tourism stamped Penang and Malacca, and coinciding with the feels like a late-’80s predominantly Chinese town. spend the money on proposed streetlights and walkway Perak, believes that the board is doing what it can to vision of Perak Mentri Besar Datuk Seri Zambry Abdul Yet, long-term Ipoh-ites will tell you that their city improvements. Renovation efforts are currently being promote tourism in Ipoh. Contrary to public percep- Kadir, to create a developed state by 2020. has changed dramatically, and not necessarily for the carried out by individual landowners to encourage new tion, Seddiqi says the state has been actively carrying

96 ESQUIRE DECEMBER 2014 Additional archival photographs from Ian Anderson/Ipoh World. ESQUIRE DECEMBER 2014 97 out promotional activities and preservation efforts, in- Top left The ability to generate something thriving, inter- thereof. “They’re not doing any preservation to those Top left are located, illegally asking for fees when they “help” Panglima Lane Traditional kopitiams cluding the controversial industrialisation of natural today. Apart from esting and unique to Ipoh is more important to Ng, buildings that are only just usable,” says Ian Ander- still dominate Ipoh’s usher unsuspecting drivers into conveniently located limestone hills in Ipoh’s vicinity. “Limestone that can one or two active which is why he started Sekeping Kong Heng back in son of Ipoh World. “Round the corner is Plan B; for food scene. parking slots. Snags or not, modernisation in Ipoh will businesses, the be seen from the highway is for commercial purposes, street is relatively 2008. A 20,000sqft parcel of land that included the that, they’ve built a brand-new brick building with no Top right continue, making it all the more crucial that stakehold- quiet and in need ’80s-era buses dot and that’s okay,” Seddiqi says. “But we do preserve. of repairs. locally famous Kong Heng coffee shop had been put character. But the other buildings will continue to de- Ipoh’s landscape, ers—state government, local council, residents, heritage We choose specific areas such as Gua Tempurung, Gu- up for sale, with plans for a high-rise to go up in its teriorate.” Anderson credits Ng and his partners for which exist societies and private developers—have honest and open Top right alongside the newer nung Lang and [the] Lost World [of ], we take Many buildings in place. Ng, together with a few partners, including well- livening up the place, but from a heritage standpoint, Perak Transit fleet. discussions with one another, if they are committed to care of those.” The board is also in the process of ap- central Ipoh, even known Ipoh-based chef Julie Song and Ben Yong of the “they aren’t doing Ipoh any favours”. It’s a matter of seeing Ipoh develop in a viable and sustainable manner. along busy roads like Above right plying for geopark status from UNESCO, a move that Bandar Timah Road, BIG Group, decided to purchase the land and devel- opinion, and Ng sees the spectrum of restoration and Ipoh Town Hall, will boost services for recreational activities, homestay are in disrepair. op it on their terms. Kong Heng coffee shop remains, preservation from a modernist angle. “If you look at an Edwardian- Baroque building programmes and small vendors, creating what the state Above right serving as a front for Ng’s boutique hotel, Sekeping Suffolk House in Penang, it is beautifully restored,” built in the ’30s. Lost in time Efforts to restore sees as real benefits to Ipoh’s economy. Although the buildings to their Kong Heng. Next door, Plan B has moved in, surround- he observes. “But if the whole of Penang is restored To a city-dweller, visiting for a weekend, Ipoh still feels limestone issue is up for debate, Su agrees on the her- former glory, like ed by a cluster of craft shops and cafés with a distinctly like that, it will end up looking like Singapore—a like a charming town full of friendly and helpful people these pre-war itage point. “It is our heritage, and people come to see houses along Lau modern KL vibe, complete with the prices to match. A new building in the old style, whitewashed over.” Al- that would inspire compliments and return visits. On it. You can be a copycat as long as you’re a good one. It Ek Ching Road, permanent exhibition celebrating the late Yasmin Ah- though Ng believes in restoring certain parts of Ipoh, foot, anyone with a bad sense of direction can easily go are mainly carried shouldn’t be that because Penang is doing it, means we out by private mad is set to open this month, creating a buzz that has other buildings should be allowed to age gracefully, off-track, given how signs are often missing from street can’t. I think that would be wrong,” he says. individuals with renewed interest from curious locals. Ng and his part- revealing a passage of time. “A building isn’t static. corners and road intersections. Depending on your deep ties to Ipoh. ners have also been conscious not to destroy the liveli- If a part crumbles in five years’ time, we’ll rebuild it. reason for visiting Ipoh, wandering about, lost on the Bottom Ipoh’s famous fruit, hood of locals whose businesses had existed before the We’re always monitoring,” he assures. streets of a small, former tin mining town could be an Setting up shop the pomelo. purchase, even going so far as to create a new space for Besides the building itself, there’s some ambivalence advantage, allowing you to encounter fascinating details But not everyone wants Ipoh to become like Penang. the barber to continue operating. on the presence of a high-profile, upscale franchise like that shed light on the lives of Ipoh-ites. Walking along a Rapid modernisation has a way of dredging up sen- The development has received a positive recep- Plan B. Will this set a precedent for similar establish- street, with wholesale produce shops selling flour, bags timentality in the people who have personal ties to a tion generally, though on the streets, town residents ments to move in? It’s definitely a possibility, but Ng pre- of staples like potatoes and onions, dried sotong and city, but prominent Ipoh-born, KL-based architect Ng are puzzled at the renovations, or seeming lack fers not to see more franchises move into Ipoh. “I would other locally-produced goods, inspires a sense of won- Seksan disagrees for other reasons. “Having heritage like to see a more down-to-earth, local artisan kind of HOMETOWN der, as one observes a wholesale business conducted the status will automatically bring in mass tourism and, if Ipoh, which is a bit more craft-based rather than busi- HEROS ’80s way. “Are you putting that photo up on Facebook?” Many individual you’re not prepared, it can be extremely difficult,” says ness-based,” he says. “I think Ipoh should remain weird Ipoh-ites have asks a middle-aged shop owner in Cantonese, amused Ng, whose firm has worked on high-profile projects in- and one-off, so it doesn’t look like other cities.” Other spent much that trays of sotong drying in the afternoon sunlight cluding KLPac, Avenue K, Zouk Club and the Sekeping chains are mostly confined to Ipoh Parade, the town’s time and effort seem to be a Kodak-worthy moment. When queried main shopping mall, but the snags of development that to preserve properties. Cities need time to adapt, and Ng prefers and promote about Ipoh’s development, the shop owner who doesn’t to see an organic approach, letting Ipoh evolve on its Ng is wary of are already beginning to show even in the Ipoh as a cul- want to be named says, “It’s a good thing of course! But I own terms. “If you don’t have enough infrastructure for smallest ways. Along Yau Tet Shin Street, biscuit shops turally unique don’t have the education for modern things.” He pauses transportation and providing all the facilities, it will end now stock candy and snacks imported from Taiwan, Malaysian city. momentarily, giving a slight shrug before returning to See more of up as a theme park, basically. Instead of selling locally- China and Sarawak, alongside a reduced selection of lo- their stories on his business. “This will be my shop until I can’t do it made products, hawkers will sell stuff from China or In- cal favourites. A panhandler or two hang about on the esquire.my anymore. After that, I think it’s up to our young people donesia to cope with the demand,” he cautions. intersection where two rival tauge ayam coffee shops to start helping out.”

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