The Art and Science of Hair Color & Texture

The Art and Science of Hair Color & Texture technique guide

© copyright 2006 aveda aveda beliefs 1. We believe in 4. We believe our 7. We believe 10. We believe treating ourselves, authenticity and learning never personal and each other and experience are ends. organizational the planet with our points of 8. We believe in balance is the care and respect. difference. encouraging key to sustainable 2. We believe social 5. We believe in innovation and success. responsibility is inspiring and empowered 11. We believe true our responsibility. educating people decision-making. leadership is 3. We believe to integrate 9. We believe our delivered with ecological and wellness and actions, products passion and by proﬁt goals are beauty in their and services example. mutually lives. should always achievable. 6. We believe in the embody power of oneness, excellence. from our global image to a focused network. aveda vision Connecting beauty, environment and well-being. Our mission at Aveda is to care for the world we live in, from the products we make to the ways in which we give back to society. At Aveda, we strive to set an example for environmental leadership and responsibility, not just in the world of beauty, but around the world. — horst rechelbacher, founder of aveda Table of Contents

Introduction The Aveda Experience module 1: The Art And Science Of Hair Color

the art and science of hair color Chapter 5 Permanent Hair Color Applications ...... 47 dimensional color using foil 1 Retouch Reestablish Application ...... 49 Chapter 1 Understanding Color...... 11 Chapter 11 Fundamentals of Applying Dimensional Color 2 Retouch Refresh Application...... 54 1 Color Theory ...... 12 Using Foil ...... 95 3 Virgin Lighter Application ...... 56 2 Natural Hair Color...... 14 1 Guest Comfort and Protection ...... 96 4 Virgin Darker Application ...... 60 3 The Level System ...... 17 2 Sectioning...... 97 5 Alternative Virgin Lighter Application...... 63 3 Subsectioning/Weaving/Slicing ...... 98 Chapter 2 Hair Color Consultation ...... 19 6 Lightening and Toning Application...... 66 1 Guest Natural Attributes ...... 20 4 Product and Foil Packet Application ...... 100 Chapter 6 Freehand Permanent Hair Color Applications . 71 2 A Blueprint to Better Hair Coloring ...... 22 5 Strand Test ...... 101 1 Comb-On Color Application ...... 72 3 How to Perform a Strand Test ...... 24 Chapter 12 Classic Foil Applications ...... 103 2 Shoe Shine Application...... 75 4 Hair Color Cautions ...... 25 1 Six Basic Section Full Head Foil Application ...... 104 Chapter 7 Advanced Hair Color Applications ...... 77 Chapter 3 Hair Color Chemistry, Formulating, Mixing . 29 2 Alternative Full Head Foil Application ...... 108 1 Circles Application ...... 78 1 The Evolution of Hair Color ...... 30 3 Partial Hair Foil Application ...... 113 2 Color Melting Application ...... 82 2 Today’s Hair Color Products ...... 32 4 Short Hair Foil Application ...... 115 3 Chemical Actions of Permanent Hair Color...... 33 5 Singles Application...... 119 4 Formulating and Mixing Permanent Hair Color . . 35 6 Tipping Application...... 123 5 Formulating and Mixing High Lift Color ...... 38 henna, temporary and demi-permanent color Chapter 13 Dimensional Color Combination Applications. .127 1 Full Head Color with Slices Application ...... 128 Chapter 8 Henna Hair Color...... 87 2 Back-to-Back Slices Application ...... 131 1 Henna Hair Color Features and Precautions . . . . . 88 permanent hair color applications Chapter 9 Temporary Hair Color ...... 91 Chapter 4 Full Head Color Application Fundamentals . 39 1 Temporary Hair Color Application ...... 92 corrective color techniques 1 Work Flow ...... 40 Chapter 14 Corrective Color Techniques ...... 135 Chapter 10 Demi-Permanent Hair Color ...... 93 2 Guest Comfort and Protection...... 41 1 Corrective Color Consultation...... 136 1 Demi-Permanent Hair Color Application...... 94 3 Sectioning and Subsectioning ...... 43 2 Color Cleansing Technique...... 137 4 Product Application...... 44 3 PreColoration Technique ...... 140 5 Strand Test ...... 46 4 Cautions Correcting Hair Colored with Henna . . .142

4 table of contents | © aveda 2006 The Aveda Experience includes three primary areas on our service wheel: greeting, treatment/ritual, goodbye. Greeting

Treatment/ Ritual

Goodbye

The Aveda Experience When you work in an Aveda salon, you’ll find your guests expect something more than a Greeting typical trip to the salon. In the relaxing environment of your salon, a hair service can be On the day of the service, a warm transformed, by you, into a memorable experience. In the world of Aveda, the word greeting makes your guest feel welcome from the start. “experience” refers to the guest’s entire time spent with you and others in your salon. · Meet the guest It starts when the When the service is booked, either Guests are advised not to shampoo · Smile and extend a friendly service is booked over the phone or in person, the their hair on the same day, prior to welcome experience begins. The appointment a chemical service, as this will help · Offer Aveda Comforting Tea is made cheerfully and efficiently. avoid scalp irritation. If the guest The time and date are recapped. needs a patch test, it’s arranged · Show the guest where to change And a confirmation call is made to and conducted professionally, into a gown remind the guest of the appointment. in the salon. · Show them your station · If they say “yes” to tea, bring it to your station and meet them there

6 the aveda experience | © aveda 2006 The Aveda Experience

Treatment/Ritual Consultation Treatment Ritual Treatment (continued) The treatment begins with a · Look through a portfolio to make The treatment will vary widely, While the guest’s hair is processing, As you rinse, style and finish your consultation—a two-way dialogue sure you agree on the desired depending on what you and your perform a Stress-Relieving Hand guest’s hair, help educate them that leads to agreement on the result guest choose to accomplish. But Ritual to elevate the experience. about the styling products and desired outcome and service. · Discuss possible services there are things you can do to finishing techniques they can use help assure a positive, relaxing to enhance their new look. Begin by asking questions that · Discuss financial considerations salon experience, no matter what help you get to know your guests · Fill out a Hair Care Tips prescription treatment is provided. Your guests and get to know their hair. For · Talk about the level of home should know that they are not just · Give them a copy and keep a first-time guests, questions like, care needed receiving a service—they’re being copy on file so if they forget the “What kind of work do you do?” · Recommend products that will cared for. product name, you can look it up help you develop a relationship help maintain hair condition and gain insight about the guest’s and style As you finish the hair service, offer life style—insight that can help a Face Color Finishing Touch and · For a color service, use a you recommend hair styles, recommend Aveda colors that will blueprint tool service and home maintenance work well with their new look. routines. For example, if your The consultation should leave you guest is a high-powered executive both feeling confident that you who travels continually, easy-care know what the guest wants and hair may be required. how to achieve it. The Consultation lessons in this curriculum provide guidance about essential questions to ask while gaining information about the guest’s hair history. note: Listening is the key to the consultation. Let the guest do tip: “Tell me about your 80% of the talking. Confirm what hair” is a great way to start a you hear and gain agreement conversation about the guest’s about the proposed service. hair history. © aveda 2006 | the aveda experience 7 To develop a complete mind, study the science of art, study the art of science. Learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else. — Leonardo Da Vinci

Goodbye From the moment your guest Notes: came through the door and was While saying goodbye to your greeted warmly, you: guests, remember that this is their last impression of the experience · Greeted your guest with a smile they’ve had with you and your salon. · Offered tea and showed them · Take time to help them ﬁnd where to change products in the retail area · Consulted about outcomes · Invite them to book their next and services appointment · Helped assure your guest’s · Offer a warm, friendly goodbye comfort and protection and reinforce that you’ll see · Gave the highest level of them soon professional service · Completed a relaxing, sensory ritual · Taught the guest how to achieve their look at home · Invited the guest to schedule a return appointment · Offered a warm, friendly goodbye For your guest, that’s more than a typical trip to the salon. That’s a memorable Aveda experience.

8 the aveda experience | © aveda 2006 The Art and Science Of Hair Color Module 1: The Art And Science Of Hair Color Coloring hair is a transforming experience. It’s a process of reinvention that brings hair to life in a new way through chemistry —the way product formulas react with hair. That’s why the application of hair color is both an art and a science that requires imagination, creative expression, intuition, the ability to listen and consult plus technical knowledge and skill. The combination is inspiring, and the possibilities arecolor and textureendless. | color fundamentals | understanding color 9 Module 1: TheChapter Art 1: Understanding And ColorScience Of Hair Color Coloring hair is a transforming experience. It’s a process of reinvention that brings hair to life in a new way through chemistry When we view the world around us, we often take for granted the spectrum —the way productof color that enhances formulas our environment. react Behind those with colors is ahair. scientiﬁc system that, when understood, can help us succeed at applying hair color That’s why theeffectively application and achieving a desired result. of hair color lesson 1: Color surrounds us, interacts with our bodies and energies, affects our is bothColor Theory an artmoods, and and makes a thingsscience appear warm thator cool, exciting requires or calming. lesson 2: To understand how hair color formulas react with natural hair, a look at Natural Hair Color the hair’s structure and natural color is important. Before being able to imagination,knowledgeably creative create hairexpression, color formulas, the hair’s naturalintuition, levels of color need to be understood and recognized. the abilitylesson 3: toNatural listen hair color andcan be described consult according toplus a “level system” technical that The Level System categorizes color from dark to light. knowledge aThen stagesd skill. that natural Thehair goes combinationthrough as it is being lifted or lightened is are referred to as “stages of lightening” or “lifting levels.” inspiring, and the possibilities arecolor and texture endless. | color fundamentals© aveda 2006 | understanding color 11 1 Color Theory Color surrounds us, interacts with our bodies and energies, affects ouro moods, and makes things appear warm or cool, exciting or calming. It was Sir Isaac Newton who, in the 17th century, discovered that the whitew light from the sun contains all the colors we see. He proved this by separating thhe colors of the rainbow through a glass prism. The colors are always arranged in the samesa order: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet.

Primary, secondary Achromatic colors are white, Primary colors (red, yellow and Secondary colorscolo (green, Tertiary colorsrs aare primary and and tertiary colors black and shades of grey. blue) are the basic building blocks orange and violet)) are twot secondaryndary colorsc mixed together of all chromatic colors. They can- primary colors mixed togethher ini similar proportions. Their Chromatic colors are the colors not be created by mixing other in similar proportions. names are stated with the primary of the rainbow. colors together. color listed ﬁrst, for example: The chromatic colors are made yellow/orange or red/violet. up of primary, secondary and tertiary colors.

12 understanding color | color theory | © aveda 2006 Color Theory

When we look at anything, including hair color, what we actually see is light reﬂected from it. A white object reﬂects most of the light that falls on it. A black object absorbs most of the light falling on it. Like most everything in the universe, color is arranged as a system that can be studied and understood. In order to better understand how different hair colors can be used and combined, a study of Color Theory is essential.

Neutralizing and Two complementary colors mixed Relating color theory The saturation of blue, red and complementary colors together create a neutral color to hair color yellow will also determine the (a brown of varying levels). All tone of the color. Understanding where the chromatic three primary colors, when mixed Hair color can be described in Colors with a predominance of colors lie on the color wheel and together, create neutral. two ways: by level (darkness to how they react when they are mixed lightness) and by tone (the char- blue will be cool in tone, while together will help you determine When two colors directly opposite acteristic of color). All colors have colors with a predominance of red how to combine hair colors to meet each other on the color wheel varying tones. will be warm in tone. When colors your guests’ desired outcomes. (orange and blue, for example, are mixed, the cool one domi- When three primary colors are or violet and yellow) are mixed nates. So a cool color mixed with Colors directly across from each mixed in equal proportions, the together, they neutralize each other. a warm color creates a cool color. other on the color wheel are color will be neutral. We can relate complementary. this to hair color by realizing the For example: saturation of blue, red and yellow blue added to yellow=green (cool) will affect the level of the color. blue added to red=violet (cool)

blue added to yellow = green (cool) blue added to red = violet (cool) © aveda 2006 | understanding color | color theory 13 += Yellow

Blue Red Yellow Yellow Yellow Green Orange Primary colors Green Orange

Green Orange Blue Red Green Neutral Orange

B R Violet Blue Red Secondary colors Blue Red

Yellow Y Yellow Violet Violet Violet Green Orange

G O

Blue Red Green Orange

B R Neutralizing colors

Blue Red Violet V Violet

Tertiary colors Cortex

Medulla

Cuticle 2 Natural Hair Color To understand how hair color formulas react with natural hair, a look at the hair’s structure and natural color is important. Before being able to knowledgeably create hair color formulas, the hair’s natural levels of color need to be understood and recognized.

Hair structure The hair’s structure is made up of: The medulla: This is a tubular core found in the center of the hair The cuticle: This is a colorless, shaft. Medulla is not found in all translucent casing over the hair hair and has no known function. shaft. It consists of overlapping The services you perform are not scales containing no natural color. concerned with the medulla. The cortex: This part contains the great bulk of melanin (the natural pigment found in hair and skin), lodged between its ﬁbers.

14 understanding color | natural hair color | © aveda 2006 Natural Hair Color

Color is formed in the cortex of the The amount of nonpigmented Eumelanin vs. Pheomelanin pigment is quite hair by melanocytes that produce hair on a guest’s head is usually Pheomelanin difficult to remove from the hair three types of pigment (melanin): described in percentages: 25%, shaft. When hair is decolorized by 50%, or 75%. Eumelanin (natural black to red) sun or product, it does not lighten Eumelanin (granular melanin) pigment (sometimes called immediately. It passes through Nonpigmented hair is sometimes Pheomelanin (diffused melanin) “granular”) is larger in size than three major stages, which oxidize referred to as “resistant” to color diffused pigment, so fewer actual Mixed Melanin (when both types in a specific order. because it may have up to 24 pigment granules are needed to are present in one melanin granule) layers of cuticle. In contrast, color a hair shaft. Because there (See “Stages of lightening” in In addition, canities is the pigmented hair usually has less are fewer of them, eumelanin next lesson) absence of pigment in hair. than 10 layers. Hair color must pigment is more easily and quickly White or grey hair is found on penetrate the cuticle before it removed from the hair shaft than guests whose hair has stopped reaches the cortex. pheomelanin pigment. producing melanin due to age Pheomelanin (natural red to pale or congenital conditions. yellow) pigment (sometimes called “diffused”) is much smaller than eumelanin pigments. There are many more yellow and red than black and brown pigments in a single hair shaft. This makes them more difficult to remove.

Midlengths

Trichochromes Differences in hair near Hair at the scalp area (or new More porous portions of the hair, the scalp versus growth) is generally softer in usually found near the ends, have There is a sub-category to midlengths and ends texture than keratinized hair in less cuticle and absorb color faster. pheomelanin pigment in natural the midlengths and ends. Lifting This is why many hair color tech- sandy-red hair called trichochromes. color occurs from 5-15 times faster niques call for product application They are responsible for natural in the scalp area, in part because to the scalp area, midlengths and “strawberry blonde” shades. the heat from the scalp affects ends at varying intervals. Because they contain more red product activation. than yellow pigment, trichochromes make these shades more difﬁcult Because the midlengths are not to lighten to pale yellow. affected by the heat of the scalp and are of a different texture, they tend to absorb color less quickly.

16 understanding color | natural hair color | © aveda 2006 the level system

lightest blonde 10

very light blonde 9

light blonde 8 3 medium blonde 7 The Level System Natural hair color can be described according to a dark “level system” that categorizes color from dark to light. blonde 6 The stages that natural hair goes through as it is being lifted or lightest brown 5 lightened are referred to as “stages of lightening” or “lifting levels.” The level system Tone light tone brown 4 All professional hair color brands The level system does not identify describe the amount of lightness the warmth/redness or ash/drab or darkness in a color by levels, tones in hair. medium either 1-10 or 1-12. There is no brown 3 Tone is the characteristic of color. universal system and descriptors Consider the difference between for each level may vary by company. olive green and lime green. Olive dark brown 2 green contains more yellow and is warmer. Lime green contains more blue and is cooler. natural ash gold copper red/violet red black 1 In hair color, tone is the warmth or coolness that is added to a neutral grey hair is non-pigmented hair color level. © aveda 2006 | understanding color | the level system 17 The Level System

Stages of lightening Lifting Natural Remaining Lightening with level descriptor nrp Melanin, when exposed to sun Pigment (NRP) levels hair color or lightening products, disap- The lifting levels are an approxi- 10 Lightest Blonde Pale Yellow Lightening with hair color brings pears from the hair. The stages of mate breakdown of the lightening 9 Very Light Blonde Yellow the hair through the same levels lightening are the colors that can process from level 1 (black) to 8 Light Blonde Yellow/Orange as sun bleaching, only much faster. be identiﬁed by the human eye as level 10 (lightest blonde). 7 Medium Blonde Orange Hair will not lift to each new level natural hair lightens. Once the natural melanin has 6 Dark Blonde Red/Orange in equal amounts of time. Due Hair passes through the same been lifted from the hair, the NRP 5 Lightest Brown Red to the makeup of the diffused stages whether the lifting process is exposed and it will contribute to pigment, the lifting process slows 4 Light Brown is chemical or caused by the sun. the end color result. down considerably when lifting Remember that the stages of 3 Medium Brown red and yellow pigments. That NRP is the tonal value that the hair lightening apply to natural, not 2 Dark Brown means lightening hair from level 2 contributes as it lightens. You must color-treated hair. to level 5 may take only a fraction of determine the NRP that the hair 1 Black the time it takes to lighten from level will contribute at the desired level 5 to 8. When lightening a guest’s seven stages prior to coloring the hair. Then you of lightening hair, check the level of lift often. can decide whether you want to Black enhance or neutralize the NRP. Brown Naturally darker hair will often Red have a higher concentration of Red/Orange red pigment than lighter hair. Hair lightens through the warmer levels Orange as it is lightened by the sun. Yellow Pale Yellow

18 understanding color | the level system | © aveda 2006 Chapter 2: Hair Color Consultation

Your guests depend on you to help them look their best by optimizing their natural color palette. Communicating with them is the first step. You’ll need to talk with your guests about their desired result, observe their natural attributes, analyze the condition of their hair and devise a blueprint plan that will lead to the look they want. lesson 1: What should I do? Would I look good as a blonde? You’ll be called on to help Guest Natural Attributes guests reach an important decision about their hair color. A trained eye, information and experience will help you be a skilled consultant. lesson 2: A planning tool such as a blueprint should be used as a guide while A Blueprint To Better Hair Coloring consulting with a guest. It can also be filed for future reference when they return for the same or similar service. lesson 3: A strand test enables you to monitor color development and avoid potential How to Perform a Strand Test problems. lesson 4: Hair Color Cautions Before performing any hair color service, it’s important that you consult with the guest and reach agreement on the desired outcome. At times, you’ll be called on to make recommendations, both aesthetic and scientific. You may even have to decline service based on the condition of a guest’s hair.

color and texture | color© fundamentals aveda 2006 | hair | understanding color consultation color 19 1 Guest Natural Attributes What do you think? What should I do? Would I look good as a blonde? A redhead? A Complexionp and brunette? You’ll be called on to help guests reach an important decision about their hair eye color Most guests want their hair color color. A trained eye, information and experience will help you be a skilled consultant. to look natural and expect the hair color outcome to complement Portfolio use Use a portfolio, magazine or styling Be aware that some guests like to Natural hair color their complexion and eye color. book when consulting with your keep the same hair color for years Encourage these guests to color guest. It’s the most dependable while others like constant change. When using permanent hair color, the natural color of the guest’s their hair within one or two levels way to identify a guest’s desired Some guests are very practical, of their natural shade. Remind outcome since a photo is often others just want a certain effect hair is best determined by parting the hair at the nape and pulling guests that the farther they move more precise than verbal commu- no matter what it takes. Learn to away from their natural color, the nication. “Red” can mean a lot of listen carefully and keep a profes- it away from the part on either side while allowing light to pass more obvious their new growth things to different people. sional detachment about their will be at the scalp area. wishes and decisions. through it. Use natural level swatches to compare the guest’s For those who want avant garde level against manufacturer’s looks, of course, traditional rules guidelines. You may also need may be broken. to look at the natural level in the front, near the face. This is what guest’s often feel is their natural color and it’s typically 1-2 levels different from the hair in the back. Ask your guests if they like their natural hair color and want to restore it as much as possible or if

20 hair color consultation | guest natural attributes | © aveda 2006 they want a change. Guest Natural Attributes

Warm or cool Age color harmony analysis In general, warm eye, hair, and skin Age is a factor when considering Skin Color/Tones Fair-Medium Medium-Deep Fair-Medium Medium-Deep tones should choose a warm hair a guest’s hair color selection, es- Warm (Yellow) Warm (Orange) Cool (Pink) Cool (Olive) color, and those with cool tones pecially for the mature person. In Complementary Neutral Blonde Neutral Brown Neutral Blonde Neutral Brown should choose a cool hair color. general, colors chosen for mature Hair Color Neutral Brown Golden Blonde Ash Blonde Ash Blonde guests should be lighter and Golden Blonde Copper Blonde Red/Red Red/Red Usually, “warm” people have Copper Blonde Red/Violet softer. For instance, people who golden or reddish tones in their Red/Red colored their hair black at 35 may skin, hair or eyes. not wish to maintain it at 65. “Cool” people have bluish or pink Consider, too, that skin tones Maintenance and tones in their skin, hair or eyes lighten with age and the tissue upkeep Using the accompanying chart, around the eyes becomes darker. How often a guest is willing to assess your guest’s natural skin Hair color should enhance the come in for maintenance service tone and refer to the complemen- guest’s look at their current age. is a vital consideration to discuss tary hair color. during consultation. In general, cool skin and eye tones are best complemented with cool or ’ash’ shades. Warm, golden skin and eye tones look most natural with warm hair colors. note: Guests who desire hair color lighter than their note: When a guest shows natural color are not good a combination of warm and candidates for tempo- cool natural characteristics, rary, semi-permanent, or use the predominant tone demi-permanent coloring as your guideline. services. © aveda 2006 | hair color consultation | guest natural attributes 21 2 A Blueprint To Better Hair Coloring A planning tool such as a blueprint should be used as a guide while consulting with a guest. It can also be ﬁled for future reference when they return for the same or similar service. When the blueprint is carefully ﬁlled out, it is a tool that helps you reach clear agreement on the desired service and outcome. It is also a plan of action for youd uring color formulation and application.

Analysis Historyy of previous professional) or if they’ve had Desired result perm or relaxer services. Take note of the level of the guest’s hair color Ask questions and consult with natural hair color and the percent- Consult with your guest about hair Since mineral deposits on the hair the guest to determine the desired age of grey hair (if any). If the hair history based on the length of can adversely affect hair color color level, tone and intensity. is colored, note the level and tone their hair. Hair grows approximately results, inquire if there is a lot of mineral in their water supply. It of the hair color. Also consider the ½ inch per month, so if the hair is Pre-work condition of the hair (see Lesson 1 six inches long, for example, take might help to ask, “Do you see in this chapter: Hair Color Cautions). a 12 month history. mineral or hard water build-up in Determine if any color cleansing This should be done prior to your shower or bath tub?” or “Do or precoloration service is needed Tactfully ask if they have had any consulting with your guest. you swim in a chlorinated pool?” (see Chapter 14, Lessons 2-3). hair color services (home or

22 hair color consultation | blueprint to better hair coloring | © aveda 2006 sample blueprint A Blueprint To Better Hair Coloring

Client Name: Date: Have you ever had an allergic reaction to hair color? Yes No Explain: Hair Color History:

new growth shafts and ends dimension

level of hair

percent of white

analysis tone of hair Formula Processing time texture of hair Select a hair color product and Determine how long the color will

porosity of hair formulation (see Chapter 4, be left on the new growth area Lesson 2). versus midlengths and/or ends. If desired level you are unsure, always perform a

desired strand test. (see Lesson 3 in this result desired tone Application chapter).

desired intensity Decide if the service will be a retouch to new growth, when or Home maintenance cleansing formula if it will be applied to midlengths prework and ends or whether it is a virgin Explain what home maintenance precoloration formula application, highlights and/or the guest needs to be aware of and

natural remaining pigment lowlights. how often they’ll need to reschedule at desired level professional services in order to

hair color formula maintain their new look. formula

volume of color catalyst

processing note: If you are performing time a Retouch Reestablish application, refer to the “Color results Balancing Guidelines” in Chapter 5, Lesson 1. These home maintenance guidelines help determine whether to extend product

to the midlengths and ends. © aveda 2006 | hair color consultation | blueprint to better hair coloring 23 3 How To Perform A Strand Test A strand test enables you to monitor color development and avoid potential problems.

How to do a strand test After processing, remove the color with a towel and assess the Take a strand of hair from the outcome. A white towel placed area of concern and apply a small behind the hair helps visualize amount of the color you are plan- color changes as you check for ning to use. Wrap the strand in foil level and tone. and allow the product to process.

24 hair color consultation | how to perform a strand test | © aveda 2006 4 Hair Color Cautions Before performing any hair color service, it’s important that you consult with the guest and reach agreement on the desired outcome. At times, you’ll be called on to make recommendations, both aesthetic and scientiﬁc. You may even have to decline service based on the condition of a guest’s hair. With certain guests, your analysis of their hair’s condition will indicate that performing a color service may cause further damage. It is recommended that you perform a strand test prior to proceeding with the color service.

Assessment By far the greatest caution is Hair history · Products used You may also need to recommend needed when lifting hair to a professional services and products · Services performed on Before performing any hair color lighter color, especially when To begin your assessment, take such as hair cuts, conditioning existing hair service, you should always assess highlighting hair or performing a your guest’s full hair history, treatments and particular sham- the hair’s condition. Determine double-process blonde. Do not including: · How often the hair is shampooed poos and conditioners. whether it has been lightened with use a lightener on hair that is and conditioned hair color or lightener, relaxed obviously damaged. · How the hair is styled or permed. It is often obvious on sight alone that the hair should · Chlorine and sun exposure not be colored. When in doubt, note: A strand test may perform a strand test. need to be performed to better assess hair condition

prior to a service. © aveda 2006 | hair color consultation | hair color cautions 25 Hair Color Cautions

Essential questions What chemical services have you How well does hair color last in How do you plan to style Do you wash your hair in water had and when? your hair? your hair? that has a substantial amount of To help determine the appropriate minerals in it? hair color product, technique and The answer to this question will The answer to this question may If you are planning a foil applica- processing method, use questions guide you in your selection of the help determine what product tion, this will help you determine If the water your guests use to like these as a guideline: appropriate product and process- type to use and the processing what type of density and effect to wash their hair has a high mineral ing method. It will also help you time needed. For example, if the use and where to place the foils. content, a detoxifying shampoo Have you ever experienced any determine if any pre-treatment is guest’s hair does not hold color It may also help you recommend may be needed to remove the scalp and/or skin irritation from needed. well, you may want to recommend maintenance products. mineral prior to successfully previous chemical services? permanent hair color versus the coloring the hair. What type of hair color and/or Do you swim in a pool? less permanent types. If the guest’s answer is “yes,” ask Listening and confirming are vital other chemical services have If hair has been exposed to a lot more probing questions to deter- during the consultation. Let the you had and when? How do you style your hair and of chlorine and/or sun, this may mine the level of irritation. If the ir- guest do 80% of the talking while The time passed since a previous what products do you use? influence your choice of pre-work. ritation level was high, do not pro- you attempt to fully understand hair color service can be deter- This will help determine if any For example, hair with a high ceed with the service. Always take their needs and expectations. mined by the length of the hair. pre-work is necessary to remove degree of chlorine build-up may precautions to minimize irritation Once they have answered each Hair grows approximately ½ inch product build-up, such as a need a detoxifying or cleansing by making sure the client has had question, confirm what you’ve per month. So if the guest had a detoxifying treatment or a hair treatment prior to the hair color a patch test. Applying protective heard by restating the guest’s hair color application a year ago color cleansing treatment. service. Hair that has been highly cream around the hairline and answer. maintaining a neat application will and the hair is 24 inches long, there exposed to the sun may need a also help prevent irritation. may still be residue in the hair. conditioning treatment.

26 hair color consultation | hair color cautions | © aveda 2006 Hair Color Cautions

Analyze the hair’s 1. Approach with extreme caution Longer hair that has either been re- Bleached If lightened hair is breaking or se- structure hair that has been treated with: laxed or treated several times with and lightened hair verely deteriorating, approach any thio should not be colored without color applied over the previously · Ammonium thioglycolate · Porosity ﬁrst performing a strand test. Lightened hair is often damaged, lightened hair with extreme cau- · Sodium hydroxide especially: tion or suggest another service. · Elasticity 3. Never color hair that is break- · Hair colored with home/drug- To more accurately assess your · Appearance · Calcium hydroxide ing. Instead, suggest that the store products that lift color guest’s hair condition, a strand · Potassium hydroxide guest use professional products · Diameter test is recommended. to cleanse and condition the hair · Long hair that has been bleached 2. Hair treated with permanent · Breakage and make appointments for a chemically or by the sun wave solution, thio relaxers, or salon-level conditioning service. · Overall condition reformation curls requires careful · Very light chemically or sun · Previous care and services analysis, as it is often very porous 4. Color enhancing shampoos and bleached hair and damaged. conditioners may correct color in a · Tenacity* · Hair on which hair color has been way that is healthy for the hair. overlapped *Tenacity is the ease or difﬁculty in which the cuticle can be pen- etrated. Hair that has a glassy feel and appearance is very tenacious because it has a tight cuticle.

caution: Because hydrox- ! ide relaxer and lightener (bleach) are both strong alkalis with pH levels over 10.0, applying either of them to hair treated with the other will cause severe

damage. © aveda 2006 | hair color consultation | hair color cautions 27 I change many things, discard others, and try again and again until I am satisﬁed; then, in my head, I begin to elaborate the work in its breadth, its narrowness, its height, its depth… I hear and see the image in front of me from every angle as if it had been cast and only the labour of writing it down remains. — Ludwig van Beethoven

Notes:

28 hair color consultation | © aveda 2006 Chapter 3:#: HairChapter Color na Chemistry,me Formulating and Mixing

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sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummycolor© aveda and texture 2006 | hair | colornibh color fundamentals chemistry, euismod formulating | understanding and tinc- mixing color 29 1 The Evolution of Hair Color The desire to change the color of one’s hair dates back to the earliest times when both men and women used a variety of techniques to lighten, darken or enhance their natural hair color.

Traditional plant Until the mid-nineteenth century water and applied to the hair to Traditional metal Other metals have been used to colorants the materials used to change hair impart an orange-red coloration. colorants dye hair throughout history. A color were derived from natural solution of sliver nitrate, some- Other plant materials used for hair sources such as animals, metal The ancient Romans used lead times in rose water, was used from coloring include indigo, chamo- ores or plants. A few of these combs dipped in wine that soured at least the sixteenth century on. mile ﬂowers, anthemis nobilis, methods have survived with some like vinegar to darken their grey The silver salt gradually darkens and the nut shells of walnut trees. modernization. For example, the hair. Today’s “hair color restorers” in combination with the keratin of use of henna has been traced are more sophisticated versions hair and exposure to light. back 4000 years to ancient Egypt. of this process. Copper salts were also quite Today, powdered leaves from the common as hair dyes, as were henna shrub are mixed with hot combinations of metallic salts with various natural animal materials like crow’s egg and leeches.

30 hair color chemistry, formulating and mixing | the evolution of hair color | © aveda 2006 The Evolution of Hair Color

History of hair lightening Venetian ladies often used an Modern hair color of the coloring intermediates These products gave minimal color alkaline solution of rock alum, in an alkaline base mixed with and were removed by a single It has been suggested that Roman black sulphur and honey which The history of hair dyes in the an oxidant immediately before shampooing. women developed methods for was spread through the hair and modern era began with the application to hair. They both The newest category of hair color lightening their hair after seeing allowed to dry in the sun. synthesis of pyrogallol. This lightened the pigmented hair is demi-permanent. These hair their captives from northern material, which is a constituent of and colored the white hair Hydrogen peroxide, still the most colors are based on the same Europe. Many Roman bleaching both walnut shells and nutgalls, simultaneously, thus allowing the satisfactory lightening agent, oxidation dye systems as the recipes still exist, incorporating was identified in 1786. About 80 user a considerable range of grey was not discovered until 1818. permanent products but differ in materials like crude soda, quick- years later, in 1865, it was first coverage plus color change. lime, alum, wood ashes and old Its lightening effect was demon- suggested as a hair dye. Pyrogallol one or more of the following ways: wine. These were potent mixtures strated at the Paris Exhibition of is basically a colorless material About ten years later “semi- less concentration of oxidation and if the ratio of ingredients was 1867 and very quickly came into which, upon oxidation, can permanent” hair color was dye intermediates, relatively mild wrong, the user could lose all popular use in both Europe and produce a yellow effect on hair. launched for both the professional alkalizing agents in the color base his/her hair. the United States. and retail markets. The dyes used and significantly lower percentage Modern synthetic hair dyes date relatively small molecules which, of hydrogen peroxide in the from 1854 when the first of the in the proper base, could penetrate developer. Often ammonia-free, three isomers of diaminobenzene the hair fiber well enough to resist they are not designed to lighten was discovered by Professor A. W. immediate removal by shampooing. natural hair color and their effects VonHofman. His compound formula last 4-6 weeks, depending on the Temporary dyes were originally became the basic ingredient of hair’s porosity. modern hair dyes. called “color rinses” because a diluted solution of dye was poured Today’s permanent hair color By the 1950’s, oxidation hair color through the hair several times and products are discussed at length products had become much more allowed to dry on the fiber. in this chapter. sophisticated. They consisted

© aveda 2006 | hair color chemistry, formulating and mixing | the evolution of hair color 31 2 Temporary Color Today’s Hair Color Products It’s important to understand the types of hair color products that are available to guests, depending on the desired outcome and how long they want the color to last.

Categories of hair color There are four categories of hair Demi-permanent hair color is an Semi-Permanent Color color. This chart provides an over- oxidizing, indirect dye that adds view of each category. level and tone. It slightly raises the cuticle to allow some color Temporary hair color is a large penetration in the cortex and the molecule direct dye that lodges in cuticle. It does not alter the natural the cuticle layer only and washes melanin and lasts 4-6 weeks. out with shampoo. It temporarily Demi-Permanent Color adds level and tone to hair color. Permanent hair color is an oxidizing, indirect dye that can Semi-permanent hair color is a lighten, darken, change tone and small molecule direct dye that deliver maximum grey coverage. penetrates the cuticle layer. It It raises the cuticle to allow adds level and tone and lasts 4-6 maximum penetration, lightening shampooings. the natural pigment and oxidizing Permanent Color the color molecules in the cortex. The color needs to be retouched and refreshed every 4-6 weeks.

32 hair color chemistry, formulating and mixing | Today’s hair color Products | © aveda 2006 Coupler (colorless) O2

temporary semi-permanent demi-permanent permanent Colored Molecule Primary Intermediates Type of Dye Large Molecule Small Molecule Oxidizing Oxidizing Direct Dye Direct Dye (indirect) Dyes (indirect) Dyes (colorless) or or Oxidizing + Nitro Oxidizing + Nitro (direct) Dyes (direct) Dyes 3 Level of Color Lodges in the Penetrates the Slightly raises Raises the cuticle Penetration cuticle layer only. cuticle layer. the cuticle to to allow maximum Chemical Actions of Permanent Hair Color Adds depth Adds depth allow some color penetration, and tone. and tone. penetration in lightening the Permanent hair color is the most widely used and the most chemically the cortex and natural pigment the cuticle. Does to reveal the under- complex formulation. An understanding of the components and not alter the color and oxidizing natural melanin. the color dyes Adds depth solely in the cortex. how they color hair is fundamental to its successful use. and tone. Lightens, darkens, changes tone and delivers maximum Hair color components Hydrogen peroxide, hair color dye Hydrogen peroxide + hair color grey coverage. and ammonia are major components molecules When the hydrogen Ammonia None None None to low Low to high of a permanent hair color. peroxide in the developer is mixed Peroxide None None Low volume, to 10–40 volume, to with dye intermediates in the hair Hydrogen peroxide + ammonia oxidize color provide lift and color, the result is an agent that molecules. oxidize the When hydrogen peroxide in the color molecules. can lift and deposit hair color. developer is mixed with ammonia pH 2–4 5–8 6–8 9–11 in the hair color, a lightening agent Dye intermediates and couplers Lifting Power None None None to low 4–5 levels is created that lifts the hair’s color. Dye intermediates and couplers Chemical of None None None Low to high The alkalinity of the ammonia are colorless molecules that are Change to Natural Hair opens the hair cuticle and inter- small enough to slip between

Longevity Shampoos out 4–6 shampoos 4–6 weeks Natural color acts with hydrogen peroxide to lift the overlapping scales of the permanently the melanin from the hair. hair’s cuticle. altered. Shade to be re-touched and refreshed in 4–6 weeks.

distilled water lemon juice vinegar baking soda ammonia

pH 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

acidic neutral alkaline

Cream tube colors contain dye Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) plus · 10 volume (3%) hydrogen Oxidation pH intermediates called paratolu- dye intermediates and couplers peroxide provides up to 1 level of ene-diamine and meta-toluene- Hydrogen peroxide bonds with lift and deposit Because hydrogen peroxide is Though hydrogen peroxide is acidic diamine. When added to hydrogen dye intermediates and couplers to made up of two molecules of (in varying degrees depending · 20 volume (6%) hydrogen peroxide, they bond 500 to 2500 create hair color pigment molecules. hydrogen and two molecules of on volume), the alkalinity of the peroxide provides up to 2 levels dye intermediates together to oxygen (H2O2), when one oxygen ammonia is such that the hair It generally comes in 10, 20, 30, of lift and deposit form color molecules inside the atom is released, the result is a color mixture remains alkaline. or 40 volume mixtures. Volume free oxygen molecule and water hair shaft. When bonded together · 30 volume (9%) hydrogen The pH of permanent hair color is means the ability of the peroxide (H2O). Oxidation is the reaction by couplers, the dye intermediates peroxide provides up to 3 levels 9.0 to 10.5. This alkalinity is what to release free oxygen gas. The of a substance when it has been are too large to escape through of lift and deposit causes the cuticle to swell open higher the volume, the more free mixed with oxygen. the hair’s cuticle. oxygen the mixture can release. · 40 volume (12%) hydrogen and allows the dye intermediates peroxide provides up to 4 levels Hair color, when mixed with Color to penetrate the cortex. Catalyst/developer, immediately of lift and deposit At the end of a color service, begins to oxidize so it can: rinsing the hair with water (pH7)– Lift remove the hair’s natural color and applying acidic shampoo (melanin) and acidic conditioner closes the cuticle imbrications and seals the Deposit deposit hair color color molecules into the cortex. molecules These actions take place

34 hair color chemistry, formulating and mixing | chemical actions of permanent hair color |© aveda 2006 simultaneously during processing. 4 Formulating And Mixing Permanent Hair Color The most frequently requested type of color service involves permanent hair color. Those who are adept at formulating and applying this type of color are valuable to their guests and able to create desired outcomes on a consistent basis.

Features and benefits Permanent hair color can lighten Appropriate guests natural hair color, but cannot Permanent hair color alters predictably lift previously-colored Permanent hair color is a good natural hair color by lifting natural hair. For example, a blonde shade choice for guests who: pigment and depositing color applied over previously-colored · Want a color that lasts 4-6 weeks molecules in the hair. The color black hair will not impart a blonde · Need optimal grey coverage may fade, but not back to the shade. To remove existing hair · Want to lift 1-4 levels natural hair color. The effects of color, you must first use a lightener Permanent hair color is NOT a permanent color remain until the or a color remover to eliminate the good choice for guests who: colored hair is cut off. note: Warning statements Be sure to follow manufacturers’ previous hair color. · Want to avoid a line of instructions about how to and directions for use Permanent color is the most demarcation as the hair grows provided by manufacturers safely handle, store, label on all product labels should and use all hair care and hair popular choice for hair color · Are not sure they want to be carefully reviewed. The processing products. If services. It can lift natural hair continue coloring their hair guest should be informed of manufactures’ instructions color or darken it as much as warnings that are relevant to and these materials conflict, desired, with complete grey them. Guests should be the manufacturers’ instructions declined service if they should be followed. coverage, if needed. request treatment that is inconsistent with the safe use of the products. © aveda 2006 | hair color chemistry, formulating and mixing | formulating and mixing permanent hair color 35 Formulating And Mixing Permanent Hair Color

Guest comfort and Permanent hair color 2. If the guest’s hair has been 4. Select the desired tone while 5. Select the appropriate developer protection formulation colored, identify the colored hair’s consulting with the guest. The to achieve the desired level. level and tone by looking beyond actual chromatic tone colors are: Performing a patch test is The process by which a colorist the new growth, just beyond the · Neutral (a blend of all three mandatory for permanent color. determines how to chemically line of demarcation. Perform it in accordance with FDA achieve the guest’s desired shade primary colors) 3. Look through your portfolio with and state law, at least 24 hours is called formulation. · Ash (violet, blue or green) before a hair color service (see the guest to determine the desired To formulate permanent hair color: · Gold (yellow/yellow orange) Chapter 4, Lesson 2). color level. 1. Determine and record (using · Copper (red/orange) your blueprint as a tool) the color · Red (red) and tone of the guest’s natural hair. It’s best to assess the color in · Red/Violet (red and violet) direct, natural light. Hair tones can be mixed together to achieve additional note: If the hair is more than 50% grey, formulate shades. Also note the intensity the hair color for the grey of the desired tone. hair. If the hair is less than 50% grey, formulate for the pigmented hair unless the guest’s priority is grey

36 hair color chemistry, formulating and mixing | formulating and mixing permanent hair color | © aveda 2006 coverage. level descriptor nrp Formulating And Mixing Permanent Hair Color

10 Lightest Blonde Pale Yellow 9 Very Light Blonde Yellow 8 Light Blonde Yellow/Orange 7 Medium Blonde Orange 6 Dark Blonde Red/Orange levels of lift volume needed processing time 5 Lightest Brown Red 4 Light Brown 4 40 45 Minutes 3 Medium Brown 3 30 40 Minutes 2 Dark Brown 2 20 30 Minutes 1 Black 1 10 20 Minutes

Formulating to color Formulating to color NRP is the tonal value that the For example, when lifting a natural Mixing darker than natural lighter than natural hair contributes as it lightens. You hair color from level 5 to level 7 must determine the NRP that the (medium blonde), hair will have Mixing ratios of hair color and For guests who want a color 1-3 Coloring hair to a lighter level than hair will contribute at the desired an orange NRP. If the guest does developer can vary. Follow the levels darker than their existing the guest’s natural color requires level prior to coloring the hair. Then not want orange to contribute to manufacturer’s directions for mixing. level, color formulation is relatively more formulation. you can decide whether you want the level 7, neutralize the orange by Immediately before application, simple. Use the desired color and 1. Look at color swatches and to enhance or neutralize the NRP. using a color with a blue tone. mix the permanent color with take into account: determine the guest’s desired To enhance the NRP, use a shade 3. Determine the appropriate developer in a non-metallic · Fine hair accepts color more color level and tone. with a tonal value similar to the NRP. volume of developer and bowl or applicator bottle. easily and may appear slightly processing time based on the Be sure to measure accurately 2. Choose the formula at the To neutralize the NRP, use a shade darker than the selected shade desired levels of lift. and mix well. desired level. with a complementary pigment · Coarse hair is more resistant to NRP (one on the opposite side of the For example, if a guest with level color and may appear slightly In this process, the guest’s natural color wheel). 4 (light brown) hair wants it lifted lighter than the selected shade remaining pigment, or NRP, will to level 6 (dark blonde), select a · Porous hair, especially porous impact the ﬁnal result. Once the level 6 color with the tone they ends, accepts color more readily natural melanin has been lifted want, then use 20 volume than nonporous hair and may from the hair, the NRP is exposed developer because you are lifting appear darker and it will contribute to the end two levels. Process according to color result. the manufacturer’s directions.

© aveda 2006 | hair color chemistry, formulating and mixing | formulating and mixing permanent hair color 37 L e v e l D e s c r i p t o r Natural Remaining Pigment C o m p l e m e n t a ry Pigments 10 Lightest Blonde Pale Ye l l o w V i o l e t 19 Ve ry Light Blonde Ye l l o w V i o l e t 18 Light Blonde Ye l l o w / O r a n g e B l u e / V i o l e t 17 Medium Blonde O r a n g e B l u e 16 Dark Blonde Re d / O r a n g e B l u e / G re e n 15 Lightest Bro w n Re d G re e n 14 Light Bro w n 13 Medium Bro w n 12 Dark Bro w n 5 11 B l a c k Formulating And Mixing High Lift Color Hair that is blonde in childhood often becomes darker later in life. Dark blonde hair provides the ideal natural base for lightening because the skin tone and eye color often are complementary.

Formulation There are four steps to successful · Determine the desired amount of Mixing Dispense the desired amount high lift color formulation: lift and select the appropriate of product into a plastic bowl or volume of developer Mix the selected product with applicator bottle and add the · Identify the guest’s natural base developer according to the required amount of developer. level using natural level swatches Remember that your guest’s Natural manufacturer’s recommended Mix thoroughly until a creamy Remaining Pigment (NRP) will · Determine the guest’s directions. A 1:2 ratio is common. consistency is achieved. impact the ﬁnal tonal results. desired level Apply the product directly · Determine the desired tonal after mixing. value and select the appropriate product shade note: Remember to drape your guest and section the hair

38 hair color chemistry, formulating and mixing | formulating and mixing high lift color | © aveda 2006 before mixing color. Permanent Hair Color Applications Chapter 4: Full Head Color Application Fundamentals

Whether you are writing a letter, creating a painting or learning to drive a car, there are fundamental skills which are common to the task. Once you learn those, you can build on them and vary them as you become more experienced and assured. The fundamental skills outlined in this chapter will give you a strong foundation for a successful career as a professional colorist. lesson 1: Hair color application is a chemical process that requires a neat and organized Work Flow workspace and logical work ﬂow. lesson 2: Guest Comfort and Protection When guests sit in your chair, they trust that you will help protect them from adverse reactions to chemical processes and keep them as comfortable as possible during the service. lesson 3: Sectioning and Subsectioning Proper sectioning is fundamental to beautiful, professional hair color results. It helps assure a neat, controlled application and balanced color coverage. lesson 4: Product Application Proper sectioning and subsectioning lay the foundation for thorough product application and consistent hair color results. lesson 5: A visual examination is essential to check level and tone development after Strand Test color processing. A strand test helps you make sure you’re getting the desired level and tone results and you’re not getting unanticipated results.

color and© aveda texture 2006 | color| full headfundamentals color application | understanding fundamentals color 39 1 Work Flow Hair color application is a chemical process that requires a neat and organized workspace and logical work ﬂow.

Work Flow Always begin by consulting with · Drape the guest for a chemical · Apply foil to the neck, if needed · Style your guest and creating a plan service · Subsection and apply product · Face Color Finishing touch such as a Blueprint to Better Hair · Section the hair Coloring (Chapter 2, Lesson 2). · Time the process · Home care education · Apply protective cream Once a patch test has proved · Perform a strand test · Future appointment booking · Mix product negative for hypersensitivity and · Shampoo and condition a guest’s hair color service has been agreed upon, the basic work ﬂow is:

40 full head color application fundamentals | work ﬂow | © aveda 2006 2 Guest Comfort and Protection When guests sit in your chair, they trust that you will help protect them from adverse reactions to chemical processes and keep them as comfortable as possible during the service.

The Patch Test: 1. With soap and water, wash a 3. Use an absorbent cotton-tipped 5. Examine the test area. If no small area in the elbow bend or applicator to apply mixture to the reaction (ie: skin eruption, burning, Because some people have allergic behind either ear, touching the test area. itching, redness) has occurred, reactions or hypersensitivity to hairline. Pat the area dry with proceed with hair coloring. 4. Let the test area air dry. Do not hair coloring products, a patch absorbent cotton. test is recommended at least 24 cover or disturb it for 24 hours. hours before a hair color service. 2. Prepare a test solution by note: The following is a mixing the appropriate ratio general description of the patch test. Manufacturers’ of the color to be used with instructions for testing of the proper developer. speciﬁc products should be followed if they are different from this general description. © aveda 2006 | full head color application fundamentals | guest comfort and protection 41 Guest Comfort and Protection

Protective Cream Neck Protection Sanitary Technique Shampoo Technique At the shampoo bowl: After sectioning the hair, to protect When coloring longer hair, after Some states require that a towel After hair color is processed, at the · Apply a small amount of shampoo the guest’s skin from absorbing sectioning and before applying or other barrier be placed between shampoo bowl you can take steps along the hairline and work it in hair color, apply a thin layer of color to midlengths and ends, the cape and the guest’s neck. to avoid color staining around the well to remove hair color and stains protective cream around the protect the guest’s skin by applying This is a good, sanitary guideline guest’s face. · Spray the hair with water and hairline perimeter. extra protective cream to the neck. since capes are often used from thoroughly rinse product out Cover the cream with foil. As lower guest to guest. When applying product, be very of hair subsections are colored, gently lay careful not to touch the protective · Shampoo and rinse twice them on top of the foil. cream with the applicator bottle or · Apply conditioner and rinse color brush. Dragging protective cream into the hair could prevent color absorption. caution: So that darker ! Reapply protective cream as needed colors do not compromise during hair color application. lighter colors during rinsing and shampooing, it’s important to take these precautionary steps: · Rinse the darkest color(s) ﬁrst · Rinse the lightest color(s) last · Rinse hair in foil packets individually · If all-over color was applied along with foils, be sure to rinse the all-over color ﬁrst · Using cool water, rinse the hair quickly until the water

42 full head color application fundamentals | guest comfort and protection | © aveda 2006 runs clear, then shampoo 3 Sectioning And Subsectioning Proper sectioning is fundamental to beautiful, professional hair color results. It helps assure a neat, controlled application and balanced color coverage. While there are standard techniques for sectioning hair, each guest is unique. You will learn to be ﬂexible while taking head shape, hair characteristics and the hair cut into account. The goal is to create control and neatness while making sure theapplication technique is accommodated.

Sectioning Using a comb: 4. Part from the point of distribution Subsectioning 2. Working up the head from the to the top of the left ear. nape, the head naturally widens 1. Start at the front hairline and For standard full head color Using the tail of a color brush: toward the point of distribution. make a center part to the nape 5. Twist and clip the front left application, use four-quadrant Divide wider subsections in half of the neck. quadrant neatly and securely 1. Take a ¼ inch subsection. The sectioning. for control. in place. density of the hair should be 2. Part from the point of distribu- considered to ensure proper hair tion to the top of the right ear. 6. Twist and clip the back left color saturation. Hair that is more quadrant and leave the back right 3. Twist and clip the front right dense and/or coarse may require quadrant free. quadrant neatly and securely thinner subsections. in place.

© aveda 2006 | full head color application fundamentals | sectioning and subsectioning 43 4 Product Application Proper sectioning and subsectioning lay the foundation for thorough product application and consistent hair color results.

Two major methods of There are two major methods Applyingppp y pproduct to a Importanceppp of pproper p Outlining a quadrant of application: application color brush bodyyp position and For many hair color appications, · Applicator bottle: Part the hair If using a color brush, dip it into location of tools and after the hair is sectioned and with the nozzle. Hold the bottle product and scoop a small amount supplies before subsections are taken, begin in your dominant hand and onto the top side of the brush. When sectioning, subsectioning or product application by outlining the distribute product on the hair. applying product, make sure your quadrant to be worked on. body position is properly aligned, · Bowl and brush: Part the hair Apply product along the hairline, perpendicular to the section you with the brush end. Scoop at the parts and around the are working on and close enough product with the brush and apply perimeter of the quadrant. The to work comfortably without liberally to both sides of the product should extend ½ inch crowding the guest. subsection. or, for a retouch application, Personal style usually dictates Gently reposition the guest’s whatever amount is necessary to which method the stylist uses. head, as needed, to maintain your cover new growth. Both bottle and brush methods visibility and ease of application. can be performed accurately. Locate your tools and supplies within easy and comfortable reach.

44 full head color application fundamentals | product application | © aveda 2006 Product Application

Applying product to Applying product to Be sure to turn the hair over and If the ends are not too porous and scalp area midlengths and ends generously apply product to both if the application requires it, when sides of the subsection. applying product to the midlengths, After taking a subsection, apply Start at the nape in the back right continue down and apply product Check the last inch or so of the product generously, extending out quadrant and apply product at the through the ends. ½ inch from the scalp. midlength of each subsection. hair to see if the ends lack shine and are dry and porous. If so, Lift subsections and inspect for If product has already been apply product up to (but not thorough product coverage. Take applied to the scalp area, overlap covering) the porous ends. care to especially check along the it with new product to assure hairline and behind the ear. even coverage.

note: If you are performing a Retouch Reestablish tip: If you apply product to application, refer to the “Color the scalp area and then apply Balancing Guidelines” in product later to the midlengths Chapter 5, Lesson 1. These note: Porous ends are of and ends, make sure you reapply guidelines help determine special concern when coloring the scalp area formula if you whether to extend product to hair due to the greater levels removed product with the tail

the midlengths and ends. of pigment they may absorb. comb during re-subsectioning. © aveda 2006 | full head color application fundamentals | product application 45 5 Strand Test A visual examination is essential to check level and tone development after color processing. A strand test helps you make sure you’re getting the desired level and tone and you’re not getting unanticipated results. Highly porous hair may require strand tests during the processing time. Be sure to re-saturate the strand if you decide to continue processing. Strand tests are also used to determine whether a color service is an appropriate choice for your guest.

Strand test as part of During the guest consultation, At that time, a strand test may Observing pprocessing Isolate a small amount of hair guest consultation take your guest’s full hair history, be needed to better assess hair progressp by y pperforming from the point of distribution (or including: condition prior to a service. a strand test area of interest). Use a dry towel to gently wipe off the product. · Products used Since each guest’s hair is different Fold the hair in half, back over · Services performed on existing hair in terms of porosity, it’s important itself and check for color balance to check to see how quickly the · How often the hair is shampooed in level and tone. hair is processing. and conditioned · How the hair is styled · Chlorine and sun exposure

note: A white towel placed behind the test subsection 46 full head color application fundamentals | strand test | © aveda 2006 helps visualize deposit or lift. Chapter 5: Permanent Hair Color Applications

Dark to light, light to dark, or just a subtle transformation. Permanent hair color techniques make it possible for your guest to make the changes they desire. lesson 1: When a guest has full head color with new growth appearing at the scalp area Retouch Reestablish Application plus color that has faded 1-2 levels at the midlengths and ends, a Retouch Reestablish application will fully restore color. lesson 2: When hair color needs a retouch due to new growth, and the midlengths have Retouch Refresh Application lost tone and up to 1 level of color—simply apply product to the new growth, process the color, and then emulsify the color through the midlengths and ends at the shampoo bowl. lesson 3: The Virgin Lighter full head color application transforms a guest’s natural hair Virgin Lighter Application color to a lighter color. lesson 4: This full head color application transforms a guest’s natural hair to a Virgin Darker Application darker color. lesson 5: Alternative Virgin Lighter Application The Alternative Virgin Lighter application involves mixing and applying one color formula for the scalp area—and the next higher developer formula for the midlengths and ends. lesson 6: Lightening And Toning Application When a guest desires a very light blonde color or more than ﬁve levels of lift, lightening and toning is required.

color and texture© aveda | color 2006 fundamentals| permanent hair | understanding color applications color 47 Color Balancing Guidelines Hair color balancing is the application of color to the midlengths and ends. To determine which guideline is appropriate for your guest, ﬁrst identify the level and tone of the previously-colored hair. This will determine how much the color has faded.

If the color has lost tone and faded · Apply product to the new growth. If the color has lost tone and · Before rinsing the hair color 1 -2 levels, product should be ap- faded up to 1 level, the hair color mixture from the new growth, · During the last 20 minutes of plied through the midlengths and needs to be refreshed. add water to the hair and work processing time, apply to the ends for the last 20 minutes of color from the scalp through the midlengths and ends. Overlap · Apply product to the new growth. processing time. midlengths and ends. this product with what was · Process for the appropriate applied to the new growth. · Emulsify for 2–5 minutes. amount of time. · Rinse thoroughly, then shampoo · Rinse thoroughly, then shampoo and condition. and condition.

note: For color balancing, use the same permanent hair color formula with a 10 volume Devel- oper or a demi-permanent color

48 permanent hair color applications | color balancing guidelines | © aveda 2006 that is a shade-for-shade match. sectioning: Section the hair into four quadrants. comfort and protection: 1 Apply protective cream to the guest’s skin along the hairline Retouch Reestablish Application perimeter. If the hair length is at the hairline or longer in the nape, When a guest has full head color with new growth appearing at the apply foil to the guest’s neck. scalp area plus color that has faded 1-2 levels at the midlengths and ends, a Retouch Reestablish application will fully restore color. color formula: Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only before after Color Treatment

product application: Apply product to the scalp area, then apply it to the midlengths and ends. ¼" diagonal subsections are taken in the back quadrants. Vertical subsections are taken in the front quadrants, working from the ear to the hairline.

dvd: Retouch Reestablish Application

Sectioning Guest comfort and Color formula Outline the ﬁrst Subsectioning and 1. Use a comb to section the hair protection 3. Mix color formulas in small quadrant product application into four quadrants. 2. Apply protective cream to the enough batches to keep the color 4. Begin product application with 5. Start at the nape in the back right guest’s skin along the hairline active (approximately 40 grams). formula 1. Outline the back right quadrant. Lift the quadrant up with perimeter. Mix more as needed. quadrant along the hairline and one hand and use the other hand For this guest, we are using: parts, all the way around the and the tail of a color brush to take Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent perimeter of the quadrant. a diagonal ¼ " subsection. Clip the Creme Hair Color and Full Spectrum™ remaining hair away. Deposit-Only Color Treatment

formula 1: new growth · 3R/O Medium Copper Brown · +20 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme Developer

formula 2: midlengths and ends note: Product should extend · 3R/O Medium Copper Brown ½ inch from the scalp. If new · +Full Spectrum™ Color growth exceeds ½ inch, a Treatment Activator Virgin Retouch application is recommended. During this application, product is applied ﬁrst to the new growth that extends beyond the ½ inch at the new growth. This area is processed to the half-way stage, then product is applied to the new growth. Be sure to overlap this product with what 50 permanent hair color applications | retouch reestablish application | © aveda 2006 has already been applied. Retouch Reestablish Application

6. Using a color brush, thoroughly 7. Continue in this manner, working 8. Move to the back left quadrant, 9. Repeat the process of taking 10. Move to the front right quad- apply formula 1 to the new growth. up toward the point of distribution, unclip the hair and outline the diagonal subsections from the rant. Unclip the hair and hold it taking diagonal subsections and quadrant with formula 1. nape upward and applying formula up with one hand while using the applying formula 1 to new growth. 1 to new growth at the scalp area. other hand to outline the quad- Working upward, pivot the subsec- rant with formula 1. The two back quadrants are tions slightly toward the right ear now complete. so you will eventually ﬁnish with a vertical subsection at the end of the quadrant.

tip: Make sure enough product is applied to saturate through to the next subsection. The most important consideration is coverage. Use enough product to cover the new growth thoroughly and stay moist during the entire recommended processing time. © aveda 2006 | permanent hair color applications | retouch reestablish application 51 Retouch Reestablish Application

11. Take a vertical subsection from 13. Outline the front left quadrant Check product coverage Reestablish color on 15. Mix enough formula 2 to cover the point of distribution to the top with formula 1 and repeat the the remaining hair, considering its 14. Starting in the back right midlengths and ends of the ear and clip the rest of the process of taking subsections and length and density. quadrant, use gloved ﬁngers or If the color has faded 2 levels hair forward. applying product to new growth. the tail of a color brush to lift each on the midlengths and ends, 16. Before applying formula 2 to 12. Apply ample product to new If needed, go back and reapply subsection and check to ensure color should be reestablished midlengths and ends that are growth and lay each subsection protective cream along the thorough product coverage to all throughout the subsection. at the hairline or longer, apply back, away from the guest’s hairline, especially if a dark color new growth. Apply more formula 1 protective cream to the neck and face. Lightly drop the subsection is being applied. where needed, including any areas place foil over it. without pushing it down against where product may have dried. 17. Starting at the nape in the back the head. Continue taking vertical right quadrant, lay a subsection subsections, applying formula 1 over a gloved hand. Use the to the new growth and working other hand to apply formula 2 toward the front hairline. to the midlength area. To assure coverage, overlap formula 1 already applied at the new growth, with formula 2. Recalling your blueprint assessment, either apply formula 2 up to (but not covering) porous ends or if the ends are not porous note: If any color gets on the note: Either permanent hair (as with freshly cut or very short guest’s skin, immediately color and 10 volume developer hair), apply formula 2 through the stop and wipe it away with a or demi-permanent hair color ends. 52 permanent hair color applications | retouch reestablish application | © aveda 2006 piece of cotton or a towel. may be used to reestablish color. Retouch Reestablish Application

Use what talent you possess—the woods would be very silent if no birds sang except those that sang best. —Henry Van Dyke

When applying formula 2 to Strand test Notes: midlengths and ends, be sure to turn each subsection over and 20. When the processing time is generously apply product to both complete, isolate a small amount sides of the hair. of hair. Use a dry towel to gently wipe product off. Fold the hair in 18. After applying formula 2, gently half, back over itself and check for lay the saturated subsection on color balance in level and tone. top of the protective foil covering the neck or on top of the previous subsection. 19. Repeat the process in the other three quadrants while gently laying subsections away from the guest’s face as you work.

note: If the ends are left uncovered, apply product to them near the end of the processing time. Exact timing tip: A white towel placed should be determined with a behind the test subsection strand test. helps visualize deposit or lift. © aveda 2006 | permanent hair color applications | retouch reestablish application 53 2 Retouch Refresh Application

When hair color needs a retouch due to new growth, and the midlengths have lost tone sectioning: and up to 1 level of color—simply apply product to the new growth, process the color, Section the hair into four and then emulsify the color through the midlengths and ends at the shampoo bowl. quadrants. This application fully restores consistent color throughout the hair. comfort and protection: Apply protective cream to the guest’s skin along the hairline perimeter. If the hair length is at before after the hairline or longer, apply foil to the guest’s neck.

color formula: Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color

product application: Apply product to the scalp area and allow it to process. Emulsify at the shampoo bowl.

dvd: Retouch Refresh Application

54 permanent hair color applications | retouch refresh application | © aveda 2006 Retouch Refresh Application

Guest comfort and Sectioning/product Color formula 4. Follow the procedure for the Emulsify protection application Retouch Reestablish application 3. Mix the color formula you will to apply formula 1 to new growth 5. After processing, move to the 1. Apply protective cream along 2. Follow the procedure for the be using. at the scalp area. shampoo bowl and evenly spray the hairline perimeter. Retouch Reestablish application For this guest, we are using: the midlengths and ends with to section the hair into four Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent water. Work the water and formula quadrants. Creme Hair Color 1 together and work this mixture formula 1: new growth custom through the midlengths and formula ends. Process for 2-5 minutes. · 40 grams 5Natural Lightest Brown Rinse thoroughly; shampoo and · 4 grams Dark Natural / Natural Pure condition as usual. Tone · 6 grams Dark Yellow / Orange Pure Tone · +20 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme Developer

tip: Begin product application where the most grey, resistent note: Do not apply product to hair is located. the midlengths or ends. © aveda 2006 | permanent hair color applications | retouch refresh application 55 3 sectioning: Section the hair into four Virgin Lighter Application quadrants. The Virgin Lighter full head color application transforms a guest’s natural hair color to a lighter color. comfort and protection: Apply protective cream to the guest’s skin along the hairline perimeter. If the hair length is at before after the hairline or longer, apply foil to the guest’s neck.

color formula: Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color

product application: Apply color formula 1 to the midlengths and ends. Then apply it to the scalp area.

dvd: Virgin Lighter Application

56 permanent hair color applications | virgin lighter application | © aveda 2006 Virgin Lighter Application

Sectioning Guest comfort and Color formula Subsectioning and 5. Take a ¼” diagonal subsection protection product application from the nape to the center part 1. Use a comb to section the hair 3. After sectioning, mix the color and lay the subsection over a into four quadrants, leaving the 2. Apply protective cream to the formulas you will be using in small 4. Begin at the nape in the back gloved hand. back right quadrant free and ready guest’s skin along the hairline enough batches to keep the color right quadrant. for color application. perimeter. fresh (approximately 40 grams). 6. Use the other hand to apply Mix more as needed. formula 1, avoiding the scalp area If the hair length is at the hairline and working from the midlengths For this guest, we are using: or longer, apply protective cream through the ends. and foil strips to the neck. Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color

formula 1: midlengths and ends, scalp area, custom formula · 40 grams 9Natural Very Light Blonde · 3 grams Light Yellow / Orange Pure Tone · 3 grams Light Orange / Red Pure Tone note: Do not outline the ·+20 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme quadrant with product. With a Developer virgin application, avoid the ½ inch closest to the scalp. Due to the natural warmth gener- ated at the scalp and the softer nature of the new growth, this area processes differently than the rest of the hair. Apply product to the midlengths and ends ﬁrst. note: Permanent hair color stays fresh for

approximately 45 minutes. © aveda 2006 | permanent hair color applications | virgin lighter application 57 Virgin Lighter Application

7. When applying formula 1 to 9. Work from the nape to the final 11. Now move to the front right Product application to 16. Starting at the nape, use the midlengths and ends, be sure to subsection at the top of the ear. quadrant, take a vertical subsec- scalp area tail of a color brush to separate a turn the hair over and generously As you work upward, pivot the tion from the top of the ear to the ¼ " diagonal subsection. apply product to both sides of subsections slightly toward the point of distribution and apply When formula 1 has been on the 17. Apply formula 1 to the scalp the subsection. ear, so you will eventually finish formula 1 to the midlengths and midlengths and ends for half of area, overlapping the previously with a vertical subsection at the ends. the manufacturer’s recommended 8. After applying formula 1, gently applied product and reapplying end of the quadrant. processing time, apply product to lay the saturated subsection away 12. Work toward the front hairline, the scalp area. color all the way down the subsec- from the guest’s face. If the hair 10. Repeat this process in the back laying each subsection back and tion. length is at the hairline or longer, left quadrant. away from the guest’s face. 14. Mix fresh formula 1. 18. Lay finished subsections away lay the subsection on top of The back quadrants are now 13. Repeat this process in the front 15. In the back right quadrant, start from the guest’s face. If the hair protective foil covering the neck. complete with approximately ½" left quadrant. the scalp area application by out- length is at the hairline or longer, at the scalp left untouched by lining the quadrant along all parts. lay subsections on protective foil product. Lift hair up to reach the nape and placed on the neck. behind the ear. To ensure thorough coverage, overlap the previously 19. Move to the back left applied product with the freshly quadrant and repeat the process. mixed formula 1. Remember to outline the quadrant first. If a subsection is too wide, divide it in half for control. tip: Use enough product on The back quadrants are now the brush to thoroughly saturate the hair while avoiding tip: Toward the top of the ear, complete. waste and working neatly. the subsections may become note: Body position is too wide to maintain even ten- important. Stand parallel to the sion. Divide the wider subsec- section you are working on. Do 58 permanent hair color applications | virgin lighter application | © aveda 2006 tions in half for greater control. not pull down on the hair. Virgin Lighter Application

I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it. —Pablo Picasso

20. Outline the front right quadrant 22. Repeat this process in the Strand test Notes: with formula 1 at the scalp area. front left quadrant. 24. When the recommended 21. Take a vertical subsection from 23. Starting in the back right processing time is complete, the top of the ear to the point of quadrant, use gloved ﬁngers or check color development. Isolate distribution and apply formula 1 to the tail of a color brush to lift each a small amount of hair. Use a the scalp area. Overlap previously subsection and check to ensure dry towel to gently wipe off the applied product with freshly mixed thorough product coverage. product. Fold the hair in half, formula 1 and refresh all the way Check for voids or areas where the back over itself and observe the down the subsection. Turn it over product may have dried. Apply color development. Look for color and apply product to both sides, more product where needed. balance through the strand. then lay it back gently, away from the guest’s face. Continue taking vertical subsections, working toward the front hairline and laying the rest of the hair to the side. Apply formula 1 to the scalp area and then thoroughly reapply to the midlengths and ends.

tip: When working on a front subsection, lay the rest tip: A white towel placed of the hair to the side and behind the test subsection helps off the guest’s face. After visualize color level and tone. product application, gently note: To protect your guest’s drop each subsection back skin, reapply protective cream toward the neck. around the hairline as needed. © aveda 2006 | permanent hair color applications | virgin lighter application 59 sectioning: 4 Section the hair into four quadrants. Virgin Darker Application This full head color application transforms a guest’s natural hair to a darker color. comfort and protection: Apply protective cream to the guest’s skin along the hairline before after perimeter. If the hair length is at the hairline or longer, apply foil to the guest’s neck.

color formula: Full Spectrum™ Protective Per- manent Creme Hair Color

product application: Apply product to the scalp area ﬁrst. Then apply it to the midlengths and ends.

dvd: Virgin Darker Application

60 permanent hair color applications | virgin darker application | © aveda 2006 Virgin Darker Application

Sectioning Color formulas Outline the ﬁrst 6. Using a color brush, apply for- to apply formula 1. Be sure to turn quadrant mula 1 to the scalp area. each subsection over and 1. Use a comb to section the hair 3. Mix the color formula you will be generously apply formula 1 to both 7. Before moving on to the next into four quadrants. using in small enough batches to 4. With formula 1, outline the sides of the hair. keep the color fresh (approximate- back right quadrant along the subsection, immediately apply Guest comfort and ly 40 grams). Mix more as needed, hairline and parts. Lift the hair up formula 1 to the midlengths. 10. After applying product, gently lay the saturated subsection on protection keeping in mind that color stays to allow easy access and applica- 8. Refer to your blueprint and how top of the protective foil covering fresh for about 45 minutes. tion behind the ear and along the you assessed the condition of 2. Apply protective cream to the the neck or on top of the previous For this guest, we are using: hairline. the ends to decide when to apply guest’s skin along the hairline subsection. Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent product. If the ends are overly dry perimeter. Creme Hair Color Subsectioning and and porous, apply formula 1 up formula 1: scalp area, midlengths product application to (but not covering) the ends. If and ends, custom formula the ends are not porous (as with 5. Start at the nape in the back · 40 grams 3Natural Medium Brown freshly cut or very short hair) or right quadrant. Lift the hair up and · 6 grams Dark Red / Orange Pure Tone if a hair cut with follow the color · 2 grams Dark Blue / Green Pure Tone use the tail of a color brush to take application, immediately apply · +10 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme a diagonal ¼ inch subsection. Clip formula 1 through the ends. Developer the remaining hair away. 9. Lay the subsection over a gloved hand. Use the other hand

tip: If the ends are porous and tip: If the hair length is at the left uncovered, apply product to hairline or longer, protect the them toward the end of the pro- guest’s neck with foil. cessing time. Performing a strand test will determine the timing for

application to porous ends. © aveda 2006 | permanent hair color applications | virgin darker application 61 Virgin Darker Application

11. Continue taking diagonal 14. Take a vertical subsection from Check product coverage Application to porous This overlapping technique helps subsections. Working upward, the ear to the point of distribution ends assure even coverage throughout pivot the subsections slightly to- and continue this process, working 17. Starting in the back right the subsection. ward the ear so you will eventually toward the front hairline. quadrant, use gloved ﬁngers or If porous ends were left uncovered, 20. Repeat this process in the ﬁnish with a vertical subsection at the tail of a color brush to lift each a strand test will help determine 15. Apply formula 1 to the scalp other three quadrants, applying the end of the quadrant. Be sure subsection and check to ensure timing for product application. area of each subsection. Then color to all porous ends. to turn each subsection over and thorough product coverage. immediately apply through the 18. Mix a new batch of formula 1. generously apply product to both Check for voids or areas where the midlengths. 19. Starting in the back right sides of the hair. product may have dried. Apply Strand test 16. Repeat the process in the front more product where needed. quadrant, lay each subsection 12. Move to the back left quadrant 21. To check color development, left quadrant. over a gloved hand and apply and repeat the process. fresh product to both sides of isolate a small amount of hair. Use a dry towel to gently wipe off the The two back quadrants are now the midlengths, working down through the porous ends. product. Fold the hair in half, back complete. over itself and check for evenness 13. Move on to the front right of color deposit. quadrant. Unclip the hair and hold it up with one hand while using the other hand to outline the quadrant with formula 1.

note: If needed, go back and note: If the subsection is too reapply protective cream along 62 permanent hair color applications | virgin darker application | © aveda 2006 wide, divide it in half for control. the hairline. 5 Alternative Virgin Lighter Application sectioning: The Alternative Virgin Lighter application involves mixing and Section the hair into four quadrants. This can be done in ad- applying one color formula for the scalp area—and the next vance or sectioned as you work. higher developer formula for the midlengths and ends. comfort and protection: This technique expedites the hair color process since product Apply protective cream to the guest’s skin along the hairline can be applied to the whole head at one time. perimeter. If the hair length is at the hairline or longer, apply foil to the guest’s neck. before after

color formula: Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color

product application: Apply color formula 1 to the scalp area, then immediately apply color formula 2 to the midlengths and ends.

dvd: Alternative Virgin Lighter Application

Sectioning Color formulas Subsectioning and 4. Repeat this process in the back Product application left quadrant. 1. Create a center part from the 3. Mix one color formula for the product application– formula 2 front hairline to the nape. scalp area (formula 1). formula 1 5. Move to the front right quadrant. 8. Mix formula 2 using the next 1. Apply formula 1 to the scalp Take vertical subsections, starting highest volume of developer up Later, you will mix the next higher area along the center part, then from the ear to the point of from formula 1. This will be applied Guest comfort and volume formula for the midlengths outline the back right quadrant. distribution and moving toward to all midlengths and ends. protection and ends. (formula 2). the front hairline. 2. Apply protective cream to the For this guest, we are using: 2. Take diagonal subsections, 9. Start in the back right quadrant. 6. Apply formula 1 thoroughly to guest’s skin all the way around the Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent working from the nape toward the Using the tail of a color brush, ﬁnd the scalp area. head along the hairline perimeter. Creme Hair Color point of distribution. the ﬁrst subsection near the nape formula 1: scalp area 7. Repeat this process in the front and lay it over a gloved hand. If the hair length is at the hairline 3. Apply formula 1 thoroughly to strong formula the scalp area. Working upward, left quadrant. 10. Use the other hand to or longer, apply protective cream · 40 grams 6Natural Dark Blonde pivot the subsections slightly apply formula 2, working to the guest’s neck and cover it · 1 gram Dark Red / Orange Pure Tone with foil. · 2 grams Dark Yellow / Orange Pure Tone toward the ear. from midlengths to ends and · +20 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme overlapping formula 1 that was Developer previously applied to the scalp formula 2: midlengths and ends area. Turn each subsection over strong formula and generously apply product to · 40 grams 6Natural Dark Blonde both sides. · 1 gram Dark Red / Orange Pure Tone ·2 grams Dark Yellow / Orange Pure Tone · +30 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme note: If your formulation tip: Since there are two requires a 40 Volume developer Developer ‘ different formulas being in the scalp area, you must use applied, it’s VITAL to overlap a standard Virgin Lighter them so there is blended or 64 permanent hair color applications | alternative virgin lighter application | © aveda 2006 application. “melted” color coverage. Alternative Virgin Lighter Application

Notes:

11. Lay subsections gently down Strand test on top of the protective foil and continue to lay them away from 13. When the recommended the guest’s face. processing time is complete, isolate a small amount of hair. 12. Repeat this process on all quad- Use a dry towel to gently wipe off rants, moving from back right to the product. Fold the hair in half, back left to front right to front left. back over itself and look for color balance through the strand, from the scalp area to the ends.

© aveda 2006 | permanent hair color applications | alternative virgin lighter application 65 sectioning: 6 Section the hair into four quadrants. Lightening and Toning Application When a guest desires a very light blonde color or more comfort and protection: Apply protective cream to the than ﬁve levels of lift, lightening and toning is required. guest’s skin along the hairline perimeter. If the hair length is at This is a double process blonde service: ﬁrst, the lightener the hairline or longer, apply foil is applied and then, after shampooing, the toner is applied. to the guest’s neck.

color formula: before after Enlightener™ Powder Lightener Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only Color Treatment

product application: Apply product to the midlengths and ends, then apply to the scalp area. ¼" diagonal subsections are taken in the back quadrants. Vertical subsections are taken in the front quadrants, working from the ear to the hairline.

dvd: Lightening and Toning Application

66 permanent hair color applications | lightening and toning application | © aveda 2006 Lightening and Toning Application

Guest comfort and Color formulas Subsectioning and 6. After applying formula 1, gently 8. Repeat this process in the back protection product application to lay the saturated subsection away. left quadrant. 3. Mix product in small enough With long hair, lay the subsection midlengths and ends The back quadrants are now 1. Apply protective cream to the batches to keep the lightener on top of the protective foil complete with the scalp area left guest’s skin around the entire fresh. Mix more as needed. 4. Start in the back right quadrant. covering the neck. untouched by product. head along the hairline perimeter. For this guest, we are using: If the hair length is at the hairline 7. Working upward, pivot the Enlightener™ Powder Lightener and or longer, apply protective cream to 9. Move to the front right quadrant subsections slightly toward the ear, Sectioning Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only Color the guest’s neck and cover it with and take a vertical subsection Treatment so you will eventually finish with foil. Take a ¼" diagonal subsection from the ear to the center part. 2. Use a comb to section the hair formula 1: midlengths and ends, and lay it over a gloved hand. a vertical subsection at the end of If the subsection is too wide, divide into four quadrants. scalp area lightening formula the quadrant. When finished with 5. Use the other hand to apply · 30 grams Enlightener™ Powder the quadrant, go back through it in half for greater control. Lightener formula 1, avoiding the scalp area and check for thorough saturation · 30 grams Enlightener™ Creme Booster and working from midlengths of each subsection. Apply more · +60 grams 20 Volume Color Catalyst™ through the ends. Turn the hair over product as needed. Creme Developer and generously apply formula 1 to formula 2: scalp area, midlengths both sides of the subsection. Use and ends custom toning formula enough product to thoroughly · 30 grams ØN Colorless Treatment saturate the hair while note: Do not outline the · 10 grams 10Natural Lightest Blonde working neatly. quadrant with product. With · +40 grams Full Spectrum™ Color note: If the ends are porous, a virgin application, avoid the Treatment Activator wait and apply product at the ½ " closest to the scalp. Due end of the process. If the ends to the natural warmth gener- note: Thorough saturation are not porous, apply product ated at the scalp, this area is vital to ensure even lift immediately. processes faster than the rest throughout the subsection. of the hair. Apply product to the If necessary, take thinner midlengths and ends first. subsections. © aveda 2006 | permanent hair color applications | lightening and toning application 67 Lightening and Toning Application

10. Work toward the front hairline, Strand test Product application to 18. Move to the back left quadrant 22. Turn it over and apply formula applying formula 1 thoroughly the scalp area and repeat the process. Remember 1 to both sides then lay it back to the midlengths and ends and 12. At this point, using the to outline the quadrant first. If a gently, away from the guest’s face. laying each subsection back and Natural Remaining Pigment chart 13. Mix a new batch of formula 1. subsection is too wide, divide it in Continue this process, working as a guide, check to see if the away from the guest’s face. When 14. In the back right quadrant, start half for greater control. through the quadrant. finished with the quadrant, go back midlengths are half-way to the the scalp area application by out- The back quadrants are now 23. Repeat this process in the front and check for thorough saturation. desired level of lightening. lining the quadrant along all parts. complete. left quadrant. Apply more product, as needed. Isolate a small amount of hair. To ensure thorough coverage, over- 19. Outline the front right quadrant 11. Repeat this process in the front Use a dry towel to gently wipe off lap the previously applied product with formula 1 at the scalp area. Strand test left quadrant. the product and observe the level with the freshly mixed formula 1. and tone. 15. Starting at the nape, use the tail 20. Separate a vertical subsection 24. During processing, isolate Check for sufficient lightening and of a color brush to gently separate from the point of distribution to a small amount of hair. Use a even results through the strand. a diagonal subsection. the ear and apply formula 1 to the dry towel to gently wipe off the If sufficient lightening has not scalp area. product. Fold the hair in half, back 16. Apply formula 1 to the scalp occurred, reapply fresh formula 1 over itself and observe the color area, then refresh the product 21. Overlap previously applied to the strand, continue processing development. all the way down the subsection product with freshly mixed formula and recheck frequently. while working it into the hair. Lift 1 and refresh the product all the Check frequently for the desired hair up to reach the nape and way down the subsection. level of lift and NRP. Reapply lightener to the strand if you are option: You may want to use behind the ear. continuing the process. cotton coil to separate the sub- 17. Lay finished subsections away sections and prevent product from reaching the scalp area. from the guest’s face and lay lower subsections on protective foil placed on the neck. 68 permanent hair color applications | lightening and toning application | © aveda 2006 Lightening and Toning Application

Rinse and shampoo 27. Reapply protective cream 30. Take diagonal subsections 31. Move to the back left quadrant Toner application to along the guest’s hairline. from the nape, working up and repeat the process. midlengths and ends 25. When the desired stage of through the quadrant and applying 28. Use a wide tooth comb to 32. Move to the front right quadrant lightening has been achieved, rinse formula 2 on both sides of the part 36. In the back quadrants, go divide the damp hair into four and outline it with formula 2. and gently shampoo twice. Do not at the scalp area. through the existing subsections quadrants. condition the hair before toning. 33. Take a vertical subsection from and apply ample product to the 29. Begin in the back right the point of distribution to the right midlengths and ends. Apply for- Toner application at the quadrant and outline it with ear. Apply ample product to the mula 2 to both sides and overlap scalp area formula 2. scalp area. the product already applied at the scalp. 26. After shampooing, towel dry 34. Continue in this manner, excess moisture from the hair and working toward the front hairline. 37. In the front quadrants, take vertical subsections and follow the leave it slightly damp. 35. Repeat this process on the note: If your guest has porous established pattern while applying ends, apply toner to the scalp front left quadrant. area first. It’s important that formula 2 to midlengths and ends. toner application is accom- plished quickly and evenly over Strand test the whole head. The thickness of the subsections depends on 38. Perform a strand test to note: The hair’s natural pig- (diffused) pigment, which is the density of the guest’s hair. determine processing time which ment will seem to lighten very more difficult to lift. Processing Work quickly while ensuring can range from 1 minute to 30 quickly at first. Remember, time varies depending on the thorough saturation. this is the eumelanin (granu- natural level of the guest’s hair note: A strand test may be minutes. lar) pigment lifting and the lift color and the desired level of option: If your guest does used to determine the process- slows down significantly as hair lift. Because the product tends not have porous ends, you may ing time of toner. reaches the orange or yellow/or- to lose its strength after 90 apply toner to the scalp area and ange natural remaining pigment minutes, you may need to remix then immediately apply it through (NRP). This is the pheomelanin and reapply the lightener. the midlengths and ends. © aveda 2006 | permanent hair color applications | lightening and toning application 69 Creativity is more than just being different. Anybody can play weird—that’s easy. What’s hard is to be as simple as Bach. Making the simple complicated is commonplace—making the complicated simple, awesomely simple—that’s creativity. —Charles Mingus

Notes:

Overview Pre-lightening (also called double process blonding) prior to toning is one of the most lucrative services performed in the salon. Pre-lightening is performed when a single process hair color cannot produce the desired result. This is one of the highest-priced color services. The lesson covers pre-lightening virgin (not previously colored) hair and retouching when the prior hair color has begun to grow out. Features Light, pastel shades of blonde can be achieved by pre- lightening before toning. Pre-lightening allows the colorist to start from a darker level when lightening, resulting in a lighter level for toning, thus ensuring the desired result. The lighteners used in a full-head application come in cream, liquid, or powder form. Appropriate Client Pre-lighten the hair before performing a full head color when the client desires either or both of the following: t"QBTUFMMJHIUCMPOEFDPMPS t.PSFUIBOöWFMFWFMTPGMJGU Because this is an expensive service that must be retouched often (approximately every 3-1/2 weeks), explaining upkeep to the client is very important. The result of a lightening and toning is not necessarily a silver ash blonde. Even clients with a level 5 or darker natural color who want a golden blonde or vivid red color may be appropriate for this service. It is advisable for double-process blondes to avoid permanent waves and relaxers. Terminology The following are standard phrases for the same service: t Lightening t Pre-lightening t Double-process blonde t Bleaching (not the preferred term). “Bleach” sounds very harsh to some clients. The phrase “on-the-scalp lightener” is used for the product desctibed here because it is gentle enough to apply directely on the scalp. “O!-the-scalp lightener” is used for highlighting and cannot safely be used on the scalp. pH Before mixing with developer, the pH of lightener is usually over 10.0 Though developers are acidic, lighteners are a strong enough alkali that the mixed product is alkaline. Chapter 6: Freehand Permanent Hair Color Applications

Once fundamental hair color techniques have been mastered, artistic abilities will develop so you can customize color applications to suit your guest’s desired outcome. Freehand hair color techniques are applied as an artist uses a brush and palette, often employing multiple colors and advanced application techniques. lesson 1: Comb-On Color is a freehandtechnique that is designed for a guest with a Comb-On Color Application short, layered hair cut. lesson 2: Shoe Shine Application This freehand technique applies color to the ends of short hair.

color and texture© aveda | 2006color| freehand fundamentals permanent | understanding hair applications color 71 sectioning: Divide the head, front from back, with an ear-to-ear part. In the back, part from the point of distribution to the occipital. Clip 1 the left side away. Comb-On Color Application comfort and protection: Comb-On Color is a freehand technique that is If the hair is long enough to hang across the front hairline, designed for a guest with a short, layered hair cut. apply a layer of protective cream and foil across the front hairline. before after color formula: Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color

product application: Starting in the back, take horizontal subsections and clip or hold the rest of the hair up and away. Dip the widest 3-4 teeth of a wide-tooth comb in product and apply color in one sweeping, vertical motion.

dvd: Comb-On Color Application

Sectioning 2. Create a center part down the Color formulas Subsectioning and 7. Using a wide-tooth comb, dip the back of the head from the point product application widest 3-4 teeth into formula 1. 1. Start by dividing the front hair of distribution to the occipital 4. Mix the color formulas you will from the back by parting from the bone. The length of the part will be using. 5. Start in the back right quadrant point of distribution to the right be determined by the shape of the For this guest, we are using: where the hair is free. ear and clipping the hair forward. guest’s hair cut. Clip the back left Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent 6. Use a comb to take a horizontal Repeat this on the front left side. Creme Hair Color quadrant away and leave the back subsection. Clip or hold the rest of right quadrant free. formula 1 the hair up and away. · 7Natural Medium Blonde · +20 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme Guest comfort and Developer

protection formula 2 3. If the hair is long enough to hang · 9B/B Very Light Intense Ash Blonde across the front hairline, apply a · +40 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme Developer layer of protective cream and foil across the front hairline. formula 3 · 8O/R Light Copper Blonde · +30 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme Developer

note: If the hair is to be cut, do the hair cut ﬁrst and then tip: Use a separate comb for the Comb-On Color. each color. © aveda 2006 | freehand permanent hair applications | comb-on color application 73 Comb-On Color Application

8. Hold the comb vertically and 9. Take another horizontal 11. Continue working up toward 13. In the front right quadrant, 15. Continue taking horizontal apply product in one sweeping, subsection directly above the the point of distribution, taking working with the shape of the subsections and alternating color vertical motion. Leave space previous one. Its thickness will horizontal subsections and hair cut, take a horizontal formulas up to the top of the head between applications to allow for depend on the density of the hair alternating colors. Leave a small subsection and clip or hold the or to the guest’s part. additional formulas. Take care not and the desired result. subsection free at the point of rest of the hair up and away. 16. Repeat this process in the front to apply product to the scalp. distribution. 10. Dip the widest 3-4 teeth 14. Dip the widest 3-4 teeth of left quadrant. into the product and repeat the 12. Repeat this process in the the wide tooth comb into the first comb-on technique across this back left quadrant. Leave a color formula. Hold the comb subsection. When applying more subsection free at the point of vertically and apply product than one color formula, alternate distribution. Combine it with the through the subsection. them as you work. other subsection left free at the point of distribution and take a horizontal subsection across it. Comb color on, remembering to tip: Working from the point alternate color formulas if you are of distribution forward, lay the applying more than one. To finish guest’s hair back and away from tip: Keep the applications thin the face for their comfort and the back quadrants, comb color and not too close together. The protection. color will expand as it processes. on across the hair that falls over the point of distribution. note: When using two or more note: When combing a colors, alternate placement subsection, make sure you tip: When combing color on the sections and brickwork comb only the top layer of hair onto hair, cotton coil can be note: If there is a natural part applications to achieve the since color has been applied to note: Do not align the color used to keep subsections from in the front, apply freehand desired result. subsections underneath it. applications in one subsection touching. This technique has applications along the part. Avoid with those in the previous been referred to as “Balyage,” starting too close to the scalp subsection. Instead, brickwork a French painter’s term for area since color on the scalp will 74 freehand permanent hair applications | comb-on color application | © aveda 2006 them for a more natural effect. sweeping with a brush. result in an undesirable look. sectioning: Apply an ample amount of hair spray. Use a blow dryer, a brush and your fingers to gently pull upward and help the hair stand up. 2 comfort and protection: Take normal precautions to Shoe Shine Application protect the guest’s face while using hair spray. This freehand technique applies color to the ends of short hair.

color formula: before after Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color Enlightener™ Powder Lightener

product application: Use a color brush to apply color formula 1 to a strip of foil. Using a back and forth motion, lightly wipe the foil across the surface of the hair to tip the ends with product. Repeat this process using color formula 2.

dvd: Shoe Shine Application

Sectioning 2. Use a blow dryer, a brush and Color formulas formula 1 Product application your ﬁngers to gently pull upward · Enlightener™ Powder Lightener 1. Do not section the hair. Instead, and help the hair stand up. 3. Mix the color formula(s) you will · +20 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme 4. Use a color brush to apply apply an ample amount of hair be using. Developer formula 1 to a strip of foil (about 16 spray. For this guest, we are using: formula 2 inches). A thin,consistent coating Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent · 9V/B Very Light Ash Blonde of product is best. Creme Hair Color and Enlightener™ · +40 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme Powder Lightener Developer

tip: Work with the shape of the hair cut above the parietal ridge and apply product to the tips only.

5. Using a back and forth motion, 6. Use another color brush to 7. Wipe the foil across the tips of lightly wipe the foil across the apply formula 2 to a new length the hair using the same back and surface of the hair to tip the ends of foil. forth motion. Bevel and blend with product. product application along the parietal ridge, but do not apply product below the parietal ridge or on the back of the head, as this tip: You may need to use the tip: Do not let the product dry technique works with the shape of end of a tail comb to lift and out on the hair. Product must the hair cut. separate the hair and keep it be kept moist to be effective. 76 freehand permanent hair applications | shoe shine application | © aveda 2006 standing up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rush-On Method Comb-On Method 1. Prepare the Cotton The comb-on method is a layered color that can result Use the roll variety of surgical cotton (don't use this term in a more subtle look than the brush-on technique. The in front of the client), cut in strips to the same size as foil. advantage of comb-on balyage is that it is not just a surface These strips are used in place of the foil sheets used in foiling techniques. application, as in the dimensional freehand color technique covered in the previous lesson, Dimensional Color Variations . 2. Section the Hair and Apply Product This method of freehand highlighting is also better than the 1. Section the hair as you would for a foil highlight/lowlight service. Create sub-sections that are 1/4” to 1/2” , with surface method for clients who move their part around. approximately 50 hairs in a cotton packet. 1. Section the Hair 2. Slice or weave the hair using a wire-tail comb. Fold cotton over the hair Section the hair the same as you would for the brush-on 3. Apply the product (with a brush) and the cotton as you method. Comb color onto hair would for a foil application. Instead of folding the cotton 2. Apply Product

three times and folding in the sides, fold the cotton over 1. Begin in the nape, unless you decided during the once to protect the hair. The cotton will cling to itself and consultation to begin higher on the head. the other balyage packets, keeping it in place. 2. Comb the color onto selected strands of hair with a comb 3. Remove Product and Finish (or brush if a stronger result is desired). Process, remove the product, and !nish the style as you 3. Apply Cotton would for a foil application. 1. Protect the precision of your highlights or lowlights by laying horizontal strips of coil cotton onto each strand of hair after it has been colored. Cotton coils protecting hair 2. Drop the next section, usually 1/2 " to 1" thick. 3. Repeat the color application in streaks, protecting each section with coil cotton until you reach the top of the head. 4. Remove Product and Finish Process, remove the product, and !nish the style as you would for a foil application.

Drop next section over the cotton Chapter 7:#: AdvancedChapter na Hairme Color Applications

Quis nostrud exerci tation ullamcorper suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea com modo consequat. Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse molestie consequat, vel illum dolore eu feugiat nulla facilisis. Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse oles tie. At vero eros et accumsan et iusto odio dignissim qui blandit praesent luptatum zzril delenit augue duis dolore te feugait nulla facilisi. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummy nibh euismod tinc- lesson 1: idunt. Sed diam nonummy ni euis mod tincidunt ut laoreet dolore magna ali- Full Head Color with Slices Application quamWorking erat with volutpat. the contours Ut wisi of enim the guest’sad minim head veniam, and hair quis cut, nostrud advanced exerci color tation ullamcorpertechniques allow suscipit for thelobortis sophisticated nisl ut aliquip application ex ea com of multiple modo consequat. hair colors Duis and autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse oles tie con- lesson 2: a new level of reﬁned outcomes. Back-to-backSlices Application sequat, vel illum dolore eu feugiat nulla facilisis at vero eros et accumsan et lesson 1: The Circles color application calls for different colors applied in circular layers Circles Application iusto odio dignissim qui blandit praesent luptatum zzril delenit augue duis. aroundUt wisi enimthe head. ad minim veniam, DependingQuis nostrud on exerci the size tation of the ullamcorper head, the suscipitdensity oflobortis the hair nisl and ut thealiquip desired ex ea effect,com modo you mayconsequat. section Duis into autemtwo or morevel eum circular iriure sections. dolor in hendrerit in vulpu- lesson 2: Withtate velit a Color esse Melting molestie application, consequat, two vel or illum more dolore overlapping eu feugiat shades nulla of facilisis. color are Color Melting Application appliedDuis autem to create vel eum a blended iriure dolor effect. in hendreritThe product in vulputate formulas velitare “melted” esse oles tie. togetherAt vero eros by overlapping et accumsan them et iusto and odio varying dignissim the length qui blanditof their praesentplacement lupta- along subsections.tum zzril delenit augue duis dolore te feugait nulla facilisi. Lorem ipsum dolor

sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummycolor and texture© aveda | colornibh 2006 fundamentals| advanced euismod hair | understanding color applications tinc- color 77 1 sectioning: Depending on the size of the Circles Application head, the density of the hair and the desired effect, you may The Circles color application calls for different colors applied in section the hair into two or circular layers around the head. more circular sections around the head. Depending on the size of the head, the density of the hair and the desired effect, you may section into two or more circular sections. comfort and protection: Apply protective cream on the skin along the perimeter of the hairline. If the hair length is at before after the hairline or longer, apply foil to the neck.

color formula: Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color

product application: Apply color formulas to one circle at a time, beginning with Circle 1.

dvd: Circles Application

Sectioning circle 1 3. In the back right quadrant, 6. Repeat this process in the front Color formulas circle 2 just above the occipital, create a left quadrant to complete the lower formula 2: scalp area strong For this guest, the hair is divided horizontal part from the right ear circle, circle 1, around the entire Eventually you will mix 5 color formula · 40 grams 6Natural Dark Blonde into three sections that encircle to the center part. Clip the hair circumference of the head. formulas that will be separated by the head. foil during processing. · 3 grams Dark Red / Orange Pure Tone above it in place. · +20 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme For this guest, we are using: 1. Use a comb to part from the 4. Repeat this process in the back Guest comfort and Developer point of distribution to the top of Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent left quadrant. protection Creme Hair Color formula 3: midlengths and ends the right ear. Clip the hair forward. bright formula 5. Move to the front right quadrant 7. Apply protective cream on the skin Repeat this process on the left For this guest, we use a Virgin Darker · 20 grams 6Natural Dark Blonde along the perimeter of the hairline. side to separate the head, front and divide the hair with a slightly application in circle 1 with one color · 20 grams Dark Pure Base from back. diagonal part. Use the semicircle If the hair length is at the hairline formula and an Alternative Virgin Lighter · 4 grams Dark Red / Orange Pure Tone pattern from the back as a guide or longer, apply foil to the neck. application with two color formulas in · +30 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme 2. Create a center part down the to create adjoining circular circles 2 and 3. Developer back of the head and clip the left sections in the front. Circle 3 side away. 8. Start by mixing the color Formula 4: scalp area formula for circle 1. · 7V/B Medium Ash Blonde · +20 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme circle 1 Developer formula 1: scalp area, midlengths and ends custom formula formula 5: midlengths and ends · 20 grams 4Natural Light Brown · 7V/B Medium Ash Blonde · 20 grams 5Natural Lightest Brown · +30 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme · 2 grams Dark Red / Orange Pure Tone Developer · 4 grams Dark Yellow / Orange Pure Tone · +10 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme Developer

Subsectioning and 11. For this guest, product in circle 12. After applying product through 16. To isolate the product, place a Sectioning circle 2 1 was applied to the new growth the ends, lay the saturated protective layer of folded foil over product application 18. Move to the back left quadrant Circle 1 and then immediately through the subsection on protective foil. circle 1, all the way around the midlengths and ends. Because this guest has short hair, head. and repeat the process. 9. Start in the back right quadrant the hair is laid back over itself. 19. In the front right quadrant, and outline it with formula 1. 17. Circle 2 is created just above 13. Continue taking vertical sub- circle 1. In the back right quadrant, ﬁnd the part that comes around 10. Take diagonal subsections sections through the front right move up 2 inches from circle 1 from the back, above the ear. Use while applying ample formula 1 to quadrant to the hairline. and, with a horizontal part, create it as a guide to connect it around the scalp area. a new section. Clip this section in the side of the head and clip it in 14. After applying formula 1 to place to begin forming circle 2. place. This front section may be the scalp area, go back and apply divided into two sections. formula 1 to the midlengths and ends. Lay saturated subsections back, away from the guest’s face. The right side of circle 1 is now note: There is a lot of complete. opportunity for creativity in 15. Repeat this process in the left the way the three formulas are applied. The lightest fomula quadrants. may go in circle 1, medium in circle 2 and darkest in circle 3 or the other way around. Other note: If the guest wears a variations may develop through fringe, do not part straight practice. across the front of the head as note: If the guest wears this would create a striping a fringe, treat it as an extra effect. Instead, part at a diago- 80 advanced hair color applications | circles application | © aveda 2006 section and apply product. nal, creating a point at the part. 20. Repeat this process in the 23. Take vertical subsections, 25. Repeat this process in the left Mix product 30. Apply formula 4 to the scalp front left quadrant to complete working from the back center part quadrants, taking vertical subsec- area, then go back and apply for- circle 2 which now encircles the forward, through the front right tions from the back center part and 27. Mix the formulas for circle 3. mula 5 to midlengths and ends. entire head. quadrant to the hairline. working to the front hairline. 31. Repeat this process in the 24. Apply product to the scalp 26. Cover circle 2 with protective foil. Subsectioning and left quadrants. Mix product area, then immediately go back product application There are now three circles of and apply color formula 3 to the Circle 3 21. Mix the formulas for circle 2. color processing. midlengths and ends. Lay the The remaining hair at the top of ﬁnished subsections back, away Start timing when product has the head forms circle 3. Subsectioning and from the guest’s face. been applied in all three circles. product application 28. Start in the back right quadrant Circle 2 and outline the section. It’s important to overlap what was 22. Start in the back right previously applied to the scalp quadrant and outline it with area in circle 2 with formula 4. color formula 2. 29. Take vertical subsections, starting at the back center part and working forward through the front right quadrant to the hairline.

tip: Rinse each circle tip: As needed, apply strips individually. tip: It’s important to overlap of foil under longer-hair formulas at the part separating subsections to keep the formu- the circles. las separated. © aveda 2006 | advanced hair color applications | circles application 81 sectioning: 2 Section the head into four Color Melting Application quadrants.

With a Color Melting Application, two or more overlapping shades of color are applied to comfort and protection: create a blended effect. The product formulas are “melted” together by overlapping them Apply protective cream to the guest’s skin along the hairline and varying the length of their placement along subsections. perimeter. If the hair length is at the hairline or longer, apply foil to the guest’s neck. before after color formula: Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color Shades of Enlightenment™ Advanced Lifting Creme Hair Color

product application: After applying color to the perimeter, take diagonal subsections using the back zig-zag pattern as a guide.

dvd: Color Melting Application

Sectioning 5. Next, create a “zig-zag” pattern 7. Clip this ”V” shaped section in 8. In the right front quadrant, lift 9. Continue to hold the hair up across the back of the head. Place place. The point of the “V” is at the the hair and create a part to while parting parallel to and 1 1. With a center part in place, part the tail comb one inch above the center of the quadrant. Repeat this connect the hairline to the top of inch behind the front hairline. the hair from the point of distribu- right ear and create a diagonal process in the back left quadrant the rear “V.” Leave the hair below This creates a “halo” section tion to the top of the right ear and part to the center part at the nape. to complete the “zig-zag” pattern. the part free. around the face. Clip the hair clip the hair forward. behind the halo in place. 6. Hold the hair up and place the 2. Repeat this on the left side. tail comb at the midpoint of this 10. Repeat this process in the front 3. In the back, create a center part part. Angle the comb upward and left quadrant. part to the top of the occipital at from the point of distribution to The result is four clipped quadrants the center part. the nape. and a perimeter section of free 4. Clip the back left quadrant away. hair hanging down.

Guest comfort and Color formulas Subsectioning and 17. Move to the front right 20. Take diagonal subsections. protection product application perimeter area. Outline the Working upward, pivot the 12. Mix the color formulas you will hairline and parts; then apply subsections slightly toward the 11. Apply protective cream on the be using. Color formula 1 on the perimeter formula 1 to the midlengths and ear so you will eventually ﬁnish skin around the perimeter of the For this guest, we are using: section ends. with a vertical subsection at the hairline. Full Spectrum™ Protective Permanent 13. Create a center part and out- end of the quadrant. Creme Hair Color and Shades of 18. Repeat this process in the front If the hair length is at the hairline line the back right perimeter area Enlightenment™ Advanced Lifting left perimeter. 21. Apply formula 1 to the scalp or longer, apply foil to the neck. Creme Hair Color with formula 1. area. 19. As you work upward on the formula 1: soft formula 14. Take diagonal subsections, head, isolate the colored area 22. Repeat the process in the back · 40 grams 4Natural Light Brown working up from the nape and ap- below with foil. left quadrant. · 3 grams Dark Yellow / Orange Pure Tone plying formula 1 to the scalp area. · +20 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme Formula 1 on the scalp area above Developer 15. Apply protective foil to the the perimeter. neck area and immediately apply formula 2 Starting in the back right quadrant, · 5R/O Lightest Intense Copper Brown formula 1 through the midlengths outline it with formula 1. · +20 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme and ends. Lay ﬁnished Developer subsections over the foil. formula 3 16. Move to the back left perimeter · Dusk—Extra Light Ash Blonde area and repeat the process. · +40 Volume Color Catalyst™ Creme Developer

tip: Overlap product at the parts, where hair from the perimeter area is already

23. Move to the front right quad- Formulas 1, 2 and 3 on the 26. Reapply formula 1 to the 27. Apply formula 2 by overlapping 28. Apply formula 3 by overlapping rant and outline it with formula 1. midlengths and ends. scalp area, then lay foil under formula 1 and extending it halfway formula 2 and extending it through Take horizontal subsections from the subsection. down the subsection or more. the ends. The colors are now 25. Start in the back right quadrant. the ear, working upward toward the “melted” together, formula 1 at Use the “zig-zag” part as a guide for center part. Apply formula 1 to the the scalp area, formula 2 on the taking a diagonal subsection. scalp area. midlengths and formula 3 through the ends. 24. Repeat this process in the front left quadrant.

tip: Apply formula 1 to the ﬁrst 1-3 inches of the scalp area. Always vary the length of the area at the scalp to which product is applied. © aveda 2006 | advanced hair color applications | color melting application 85 Color Melting Application

Notes:

29. Lay a piece of foil on top of the 33. Place a foil underneath and 35. Fold foils upward and clip them, subsection. This becomes a base apply the 3 formulas as previously if necessary. for the next subsection. described. Continue working up through the quadrant to the guest’s 30. Continue working in this part. As you work through this manner, up the back right quadrant quadrant, pivot the subsections so toward the point of distribution. they become diagonal as you 31. Repeat the process in the back approach the point of distribution. left quadrant. 34. Repeat this process in the front 32. Move to the front right left quadrant. quadrant. Take a horizontal subsection above the perimeter area. If the subsections are wide, divide them in half for better control. note: On the following subsections, it’s vital to vary the length of the 3 formulas on the note: On the top subsection at subsection. the point of distribution, extend more of formula 1 down the tip: As a guide, place 2 clips to subsection for a softer effect. mark the top of the foil where Apply foil over the top of the formulas 1 and 2 ﬁnish on the subsection and fold it to create subsection underneath. a point at the top. This allows better access to the back left quadrant and accommodates tip: Rinse each subsection 86 advanced hair color applications | color melting application | © aveda 2006 future foil placements. quickly and individually. Henna, Temporary and Demi-Permanent Chapter 8:#: HennaChapter Hair name Color

Quis nostrud exerci tation ullamcorper suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea com modo consequat. Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse molestie consequat, vel illum dolore eu feugiat nulla facilisis. Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse oles tie. At vero eros et accumsan et iusto odio dignissim qui blandit praesent luptatum zzril delenit augue duis dolore te feugait nulla facilisi. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummy nibh euismod tinc- lesson 1: idunt. Sed diam nonummy ni euis mod tincidunt ut laoreet dolore magna ali- Full Head Color with Slices Application quam erat volutpat. Ut wisi enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exerci tation ullamcorper suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea com modo consequat. Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse oles tie con- lesson 2: Back-to-backSlices Application sequat, vel illum dolore eu feugiat nulla facilisis at vero eros et accumsan et iusto odio dignissim qui blandit praesent luptatum zzril delenit augue duis. TheUt wisi application enim ad ofminim henna, veniam, a natural formulation that has been used throughout history, has had periods of popularity. Today, henna is incompatible with most Quismodern nostrud hair color exerci and tation texture ullamcorper procedures. suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea com modo consequat. Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulpu- lesson 1: Henna has been used for over 3000 years in the Middle East as a stain for Henna Hair Color Features tate velit esse molestie consequat, vel illum dolore eu feugiat nulla facilisis. and Precautions Duhair,is autembody, ﬁngernails vel eum iriure and dolor lips. in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse oles tie. Today,At vero theeros use et accumsanof henna in et most iusto salons odio dignissim is rare. Still, qui every blandit colorist praesent should lupta- havtume zzril a basic delenit understanding augue duis ofdolore its characteristics. te feugait nulla facilisi. Lorem ipsum dolor

sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummycolor and texture | colornibh fundamentals© euismodaveda 2006 | understanding| henna hair tinc- color color 87 1 Henna Hair Color Features and Precautions Henna has been used for over 3000 years in the Middle East as a stain for hair, body, ﬁngernails and lips. Today, the use of henna in most salons is rare. Still, every colorist should have a basic understanding of its characteristics.

Henna Henna is a product of the henna The active component in henna, Features Henna is a powdered material that shrub and various parts of the lawsone, binds to keratin and deposits color on the hair. It will shrub are used for different color is permanent. Using henna can not lighten natural hair color. results. It is mixed with hot water cause problems later if a guest Pure hennas create an orange-red to form a paste. The heat of the wants a permanent wave or to brown-red effect. Some manu- water is essential for absorption. permanent hair color service. Curl facturers add other elements to will not take on hair that has been henna to broaden the limited previously colored with henna reddish selection. These hennas and discoloration can occur if hair come in several colors from black color is applied over henna. to strawberry blonde.

88 henna hair color | henna hair color features and precautions | © aveda 2006 Compound henna precautions Production application Compound henna is a mixture A patch test and a strand test are Do not apply henna to guests who: Some states and manufacturers highly recommended prior to a of henna and metallic salts (lead · Have not had a strand test require a patch test for henna. acetate). Though compound service. Follow the manufacturer’s direc- · Are looking to use permanent henna is becoming obsolete, it is a tions and your state’s guidelines. concern because metallic salts are hair color on their hair To apply henna: not compatible with most modern · Are thinking about perming or hair color and texture procedures relaxing their hair · Shampoo the guest’s hair prior and products. If color or highlights to service if directed by the · Change hair color often are added to the hair, even months manufacturer · Have more than 15% nonpigment- later, there may be uneven color · Apply as a full head color service throughout the strand. ed hair or a high concentration of non-pigmented hair in one area. · Shampoo two to three times to Hennas can appear unnatural and thoroughly remove the product vivid on white hair. and then apply conditioner

caution: Compound henna ! often reacts badly with hair color and other chemical hair products. Discoloration and/or note: There are many other damage can occur. Henna can hair color options available that also be highly allergenic for can achieve results similar to or some people and lead to scalp better than henna. Recommend dermatitis. a different option to your guest. © aveda 2006 | henna hair color | henna hair color features and precautions 89 It is not the answer that enlightens, but the question. — Eugene Ionesco

Notes:

Quis nostrud exerci tation ullamcorper suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea com modo consequat. Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse molestie consequat, vel illum dolore eu feugiat nulla facilisis. Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse oles tie. At vero eros et accumsan et iusto odio dignissim qui blandit praesent luptatum zzril delenit augue duis dolore te feugait nulla facilisi. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummy nibh euismod tinc- lesson 1: idunt. Sed diam nonummy ni euis mod tincidunt ut laoreet dolore magna ali- Full Head Color with Slices Application quam erat volutpat. Ut wisi enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exerci tation ullamcorper suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea com modo consequat. Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse oles tie con- lesson 2: Back-to-backSlices Application sequat, vel illum dolore eu feugiat nulla facilisis at vero eros et accumsan et iusto odio dignissim qui blandit praesent luptatum zzril delenit augue duis. Ut wisi enim ad minim veniam, Quis nostrud exerci tation ullamcorper suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea Temporarycom modo hairconsequat. color is Duisa good autem option vel for eum guests iriure who dolor would in hendrerit like a in vulpu- slighttate velit change esse inmolestie tone. consequat, vel illum dolore eu feugiat nulla facilisis. lesson 1: Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse oles tie. Temporary Hair Color Application Temporary hair color is deﬁned as color that washes out with one shampooing. TheAt vero color eros sits et as accumsan a coating eton iusto the hair odio and dignissim does not qui penetrate blandit praesentbeyond the lupta- cuticletum zzril layer. delenit augue duis dolore te feugait nulla facilisi. Lorem ipsum dolor

sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummycolor and texture | colornibh fundamentals© aveda euismod 2006 | temporaryunderstanding hair tinc- color 91 Temporary Hair Color Application Product application Temporary hair color traditionally came in a water rinse form but is now available as a No patch test is needed unless mousse, gel, shampoo, conditioner or even spray-on color. speciﬁed by the manufacturer. 1. Shampoo and condition the hair It typically washes out with one shampooing, can darken but not lighten natural color and 2. Apply the temporary color and contains pigments that are pre-formed. These are direct dyes so no mixing is required. gently comb it through Temporary hair color is deﬁned as color that washes out with one shampooing. The color 3. Leave the color in 4. Style the hair sits as a coating on the hair and does not penetrate beyond the cuticle layer.

CAUTION! In cases of extreme ! porosity, temporary color can become longer-lasting. This is especially true at the porous 92 temporary hair color | temporary hair color application | © aveda 2006 ends. Chapter 10:#: Chapter Demi-Permanent name Hair Color

Quis nostrud exerci tation ullamcorper suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea com modo consequat. Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse molestie consequat, vel illum dolore eu feugiat nulla facilisis. Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse oles tie. At vero eros et accumsan et iusto odio dignissim qui blandit praesent luptatum zzril delenit augue duis dolore te feugait nulla facilisi. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummy nibh euismod tinc- lesson 1: idunt. Sed diam nonummy ni euis mod tincidunt ut laoreet dolore magna ali- Full Head Color with Slices Application quam erat volutpat. Ut wisi enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exerci tation ullamcorper suscipit lobortis nisl ut aliquip ex ea com modo consequat. Duis autem vel eum iriure dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse oles tie con- lesson 2: Back-to-backSlices Application sequat, vel illum dolore eu feugiat nulla facilisis at vero eros et accumsan et iusto odio dignissim qui blandit praesent luptatum zzril delenit augue duis. Ut wisi enim ad minim veniam, Demi-PermanentQuis nostrud exerci hair tation color ullamcorper does not lift suscipit natural lobortis color from nisl the ut aliquip hair, as ex ea permanentcom modo consequat.hair color does. Duis autemIt simply vel deposits eum iriure color dolor molecules in hendrerit in the in vulpu-hair. tateEach velit time e ssethe hairmolestie is shampooed, consequat, some vel illum of the dolore color eu molecules feugiat nulla wash facilisis. away Duandis the autem color vel gradually eum iriure fades. dolor in hendrerit in vulputate velit esse oles tie. lesson 1: Demi-Permanent hair color works with a guest’s existing hair color to darken, Demi-Permanent Hair At vero eros et accumsan et iusto odio dignissim qui blandit praesent lupta- Color Application changetum zzril tone delenit or blend augue grey. duis It dolore does not te feugaitlighten nullahair color. facilisi. Lorem ipsum dolor

sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummycolor and texture | colornibh© aveda fundamentals 2006 euismod| demi-permanent | understanding hair tinc- color 93 Demi-Permanent Hair Color Application Demi-Permanent hair color works with a guest’s existing hair color to darken, change tone or blend grey. It does not lighten hair color.

Features and beneﬁts Demi-permanent hair colors Guest comfort and Sectioning and Strand test slightly raise the cuticle to allow protection subsectioning 5. When processing time is Demi-permanent hair colors are some color penetration in the 1. Section the hair into four quad- complete, wipe a strand thoroughly based on oxidation dye systems cortex and the cuticle. They do not FDA regulations require that you rants, from the center of the front with a towel and assess the color similar to permanent hair color alter the natural melanin and last perform a patch test at least 24 hairline to the nape and across the development. products and must be mixed with approximately 4-6 weeks. hours prior to performing this an activator/developer in order to hair color service (see Chapter 11, top of the head from ear to ear. · generally blend up to 50% grey create a shade. Because they are Lesson 1). 2. Take ¼” subsections. Semi-Permanent color not designed to lighten hair, these hair Another type of non-permanent products rarely contain ammonia. · darken hair Formulating and mixing Product application hair color is semi-permanent color · change hair’s tone which can be used to blend grey Referring to your blueprint, iden- 3. Apply product with a hair color or provide a change in tone. Guests who want to lighten their tify the guest’s natural level. brush or applicator bottle. Start at hair or expect complete grey Determine the guest’s desired the scalp and continue through The penetration of semi-permanent coverage are not good candidates level and tone. the ends. colors is like staining a piece of for demi-permanent color. wood. Some of the original color Choose the formula at the desired Follow the manufacturer’s and tones shows through. level and refer to the mixing instructions for processing. charts for formulation. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended volume of activator/developer. Mix product immediately before application. Use a plastic bowl or applicator bottle for mixing.

note: Some manufacturers tip: Remember, this hair color suggest that you shampoo prior 94 demi-permanent color | demi-permanent hair color application | © aveda 2006 product does not provide lift. to application Dimensional Color Using Foil © copyright 2006 aveda