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Romantic Castles and Palaces, As Seen and Described by Famous Writers

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ls•^^SS^^ jji^ NYPL RESEARCH LIBRARIES 3 3433 06899207 6 I ROMANIC PALACeS CASCLeSAND DescRmeD by GR€ACAOCnORS to 3' Dup. ^4-^ / Be Kept _£)/ n d/(zA Romantic Castles and Palaces THS NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY AaTOR, LSNOX AND R 1934 I, 1 Romantic Castles and Palaces As Seen and Described by Famous Writers EDITED AND TRANSLATED By ESTHER SINGLETON AUTHOR OF " TURRETS, TOWERS AND TEMPLES," " GREAT PICTURES," " WONDERS OF NATURE," " PARIS," AND "A GUIDE TO THE OPERA," AND TRANSLATOR OF " THE MUSIC DRAMAS OF RICHARD WAGNER " IVith Numerous Illustrations ^ NEW YORK DODD. MEAD & COMPANY 190 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY 747446 A ASTOR, LENOX AND TILDEN FOUNDATIONS R 1934 L Copyright, igoi By Dodd, Mead & Company First edition, published October, iqoi. • « • • •• •• t. • •? « • r * ^ r r < ( Preface IN making a selection from the large number of castles and palaces that might be included, I have endeav- oured to choose those that would appeal equally to the lovers of fine architecture and to the lovers of history and legend. There is probably no class of buildings that engages the interest of so many different minds as the castle. To the architect, such strongholds as Conway, Warwick, Arundel, Lambeth, Blois, Caernavon, Kronborg, Windsor, Urbino, Berkeley, Amboise, Loches, etc., etc., are valuable studies. For example, Conway, half castle, half palace, contains Early Decorated architecture in Queen Eleanor's Oratory and fine lancet windows ; the donjon of Arundel dates from the days of King Alfred ; Warwick, one of the few mediaeval fortresses that has lasted unchanged from the time of William the Conqueror to that of King Edward VII., shows us what Kenilworth and the other baronial castles of England were like ; the feudal stronghold of Berkeley has also preserved its ancient appearance through seven centuries ; Windsor retains its Norman Keep and affords a splendid example of the dwelling-place of royalty ; the mediaeval fortress of Amboise with its Flamboyant Gothic chapel displays a wonderful contrast of styles; and VI PREFACE at Blois four periods of architecture may be contemplated side by side. Turning to palaces, it is sufficient merely to name the Ducal Palace, the Alhambra, Hampton Court Palace, Fontainebleau, Chenonceaux, Futtehpore-Sikri, and the Palace of Shah Jehan to recall the wealth that exists in such vast volumes of art and architecture. The Mikado's Palace, and the Summer Palace at Pekin transport us into another and mysterious world, appealing strongly to our imagination. The castle was built for defence as well as for a dwell- ing-place ; the palace, generally speaking, is the abode of monarchs or nobles ; and as both have been the scene of plots, imprisonments, murders, entertainments, love-mak- ing, marriages, births and deaths, their walls enclose in- numerable memories of history and legend. As the most brilliant displays of human pleasure and the blackest mani- festations of human conduct have occurred in their halls, towers and dungeons, the phantoms of the most striking characters in history hover amid their crumbling and ivy- clad stones. In every castle there are one or two characters, events, or legends that dominate all the others. For instance, in the Vaults of Kronborg Holger Danske (Ogier le Danois, beloved of Morgan le Fay) sleeps ; but the better-remem- bered legend is that of the pale ghost that walks the plat- form at Elsinore in the nipping and eager air of midnight. Glamis is the supposed scene of Macbeth's murder of Duncan ; Warwick is associated with the legendary Guy, the Wars of the Roses and the great Earl, the " King- ; PREFACE vii Maker;" Linlithgow is rich in Stuart memories,— it was the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots -, Caernavon was the birthplace of the first Prince of Wales ; Raby was the home of the famous Nevilles ; Harry Hotspur dwelt at Alnwick; the shadow of Louis XL darkens Plessis-Ies- Tours ; Wyclif, Stephen Langton and the Lollards cling to Lambeth ; Futtehpore-Sikri recalls the splendours of the great Akbar ; Wolsey dominates Hampton Court Palace Catherine de'Medici presides over Chaumont ; Charles Vn., Joan of Arc and Agnes Sorel may be evoked at Chinon ; Berkeley was the scene of the murder of Ed- ward n. ; Agnes Sorel is again at Loches ; Francois L, Henri IV. and Diane de Poictiers haunt Fontainebleau the Riccardi is filled with Medici crimes ; the sombre Vecchio holds memories of the brilliant and wicked Cosmo L ; and as the entire history of Florence may be read in the walls of the latter palace, so all the events and phases of Venetian story are centred in the Ducal Palace. Chenonceaux, *' the fairy palace of Armida," and Kensing- ton are exceptional in containing no stains of blood. Leigh Hunt aptly remarks : " Windsor Castle is a place to receive monarchs in ; Buckingham Palace, to see fashions in ; Kensington Palace a place to drink tea in," exhibit- ing "the domestic side of royalty." Its gardens, however, call up all the fashion, beauty and wit of the Eighteenth Century. We may suggest to the lovers of beautiful scenery that the pleasure they experience is often largely due to the presence of the castle in the landscape ; and we may re- Vlll PREFACE mind him, what an important feature Turner made of the castle in his paintings. Sometimes, indeed, he went so far as to introduce one when his artistic feeling told him that a peak or crag was incomplete without its embattled towers. What would the rock of Edinburgh be without " Auld Reekie," or the parks of Arundel, Berkeley, or Alnwick without their grey towers seen through vistas framed in foliage ? The Wartburg in the Thuringer Forest, and Stirling and Conway, surrounded by the mountains of Scot- land and Wales, are also notable examples of the aid of the castle in completing the picturesque effect of the landscape. The translations have been made especially for this book ; and in order to give as much continuous history of each building as possible, I have sometimes been compelled to cut. Otherwise, the essays remain unchanged. My thanks are extended to Messrs. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. for their kind permission to reprint the selections from Hawthorne, E. S. New York, August, igoi. Contents Conway Castle ..... I Grant Allen. The Ducal Palace ..... 8 Theophile Gautier. Palace of Linlithgow . .21 Sir Walter Scott. Arundel Castle . .32 Alice Meynell. Palazzo Vecchio . .41 Alexandre Dumas. Kensington Palace . .51 Leigh Hunt. The Mikado's Palace . .61 Pierre Loti Warwick Castle . .68 Lady Warwick. The Alhambra . .78 Edmondo De Amicis. Lambeth Palace . .89 John Richard Green. Chateau de Blois 99 Jules Loiseleur. Futtehpore-Sikri 105 Louis Rousselet. X CONTENTS Caernavon Castle . .115 William Howitt. A Ball at the Winter Palace . 1 24 Theophile Gautier. Fontainebleau . • '33 Grant Allen. The Riccardi Palace ..... 143 Alexandre Dumas. Raby Castle . • *53 William Howitt. Castle del Monte ..... 162 I. Edward Lear. II. Henry Swinburne. The Generalife ..... 169 Theophile Gautier. Chateau de Chenonceaux . .174 Jules Loiseleur. Dublin Castle . , .179 Lady Wilde. Sans Souci and Other Prussian Palaces . .183 William Howitt. Whitehall Palace . .190 Leigh Hunt. The Castle of Kronborg . .199 Horace Marryat. Chaumont sur Loire . .210 Jules Loiseleur. Windsor Castle . 217 The Marquis of Lorne. CONTENTS xi The Palace of Urbino .... 226 John Addington Symonds. Alnwtck Castle . 236 CuTHBERT BeDE. The Palace of Saint-Cloud .... 245 j. j. bourrassee. Stirling Castle ..... 254 Nathaniel Hawthorne. The Palace of the Bosphorus . 259 Theophile Gautier. Plessis-les-Tours ..... 267 J. J. BoURRASSEE. Hampton Court Palace .... 275 Ernest Law. The Palace of Shah Jehan .... 285 Bholanauth Chunder. Edinburgh Castle ..... 295 I. Robert Louis Stevenson. IL James Norris Brewer. Lambton Castle ..... 304 William Howitt. Aranjuez . .310 Edmondo De Amicis. Glamis Castle . .314 Lady Glamis. Chateau de Chinon . ... 321 J. J. Bourrassee. The Summer Palace ..... 329 Maurice Paleologue. xii CONTENTS Berkeley Castle Illustrations Conway Castle IVa/es Fro72tispiece FACING PAGE The Ducal Palace Ifa/y . 8 Palace of Linlithgow .... Scotland 21 Arundel Castle England 32 Palazzo Vecchio Italy . 41 Kensington Palace Ejigland 51 The Mikado's Palace .... Japan 61 Warwick Castle England 68 The Alhambra Spain 78 Lambeth Palace England 89 Chateau de Blois France 99 Futtehpore-Sikri India 105 Caernavon Castle Wales Winter Palace . Russia 124 Fontainebleau France 133 The Riccardi Palace .... Italy . 143 Raby Castle England 153 Castel del Monte Sicily 162 The Generalife Spain 169 Chateau de Chenonceaux . France 174 Dublin Castle Ireland 179 Sans Souci Germany 183 Whitehall Palace England 190 The Castle of Kronborg . Denmark 199 Chaumont sur Loire France . 210 Windsor Castle England 217 The Palace of Urbino .... Italy . 226 Alnwick Castle Englatid 236 XIV ILLUSTRATIONS The Palace of Saint-Cloud . France 245 Stirling Castle Scotland 254 The Palace of the Bosphorus . Turkey 259 Plessis-les-Tours France 267 Hampton Court Palace . England 275 The Palace of Shah Jehan . India 285 Edinburgh Castle Scotland 295 Lambton Castle England 304 Aranjuez Spain 310 Glamis Castle Scotland 314 Chateau de Chinon France 321 The Summer Palace China 329 Berkeley Castle England 337 The Castle of Chillon .... Switzerland 346 Rocca Malatestiana Italy . 354 The Wartburg Germany 360 Chateau d'Amboise France . 367 Blarney Castle Ireland . 375 Chateau de Loches France . 380 The Palace of Blenheim . England 390 Castles and Palaces CONWAY CASTLE GRANT ALLEN TO call the town at the mouth of the Conway plain Conway is as absurd as if we were to call the town at the mouth of the Tyne plain Tyne instead of Tyne- mouth. By whatever name we call it, however, Conway town itself is equally interesting and equally beautiful. It still presents perhaps the best specimen yet remaining in Britain of a mediaeval borough, begirt to this day with its Thir- teenth Century walls, and overlooked by the towers of its strong castle-fortress.
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