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Chinese Paper Cutting Technique in Relation to Body and Clothing

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Chinese Paper Cutting Technique in Relation to Body and Clothing 1 MASTER DEGREE PROJECT OF FASHION DESIGN An exploration of Chinese paper cutting technique in relation to body and clothing Master thesis : Xinqi Yi Instructor : Hanna landin 2013. 06.07 Fig 1 Cutting the surface and structure Morse code Tee: 5% PU; 50% Cotton 45% PET 2 Fig 2 Top: Simple cuts change the form. 100% PP Skirt: Cutting the surface and structure PA 5%; PET 95% Finish Bleached. Stiffened. 1 Fig 3 Combined folding and cutting. Bodysuit: Outfit: 90% Cotton, 10% Flax ; Mock leno weave 290 g/ m², Fig 4 The method that from folding to cutting is according to the traditional paper cutting Tuan Hua Style. Fig 5 Material: 100% PES; construction: Plain weight 115g/ m2 thickness: 0.35mm Finish White or dyed. Stiffened. Fig 6 Top: Re- draping through simple cuts Skirt: Combined folding and cutting Skirt. Method is same to Fig 4 Fig7 Skirts: Simple cutting; PP 100% Top: Re- draping through simple cuts; PET 100% Fig 8 Re draping through simple cuts. Jumpsuit; 100% Nylon Simple cuts build up the structure of the Jumpsuit. Fig9 Pattern of cutting with laser cutting machine Fig 10 Re draping through simple cuts cut in chiffon. Material : Viscos Cellulous Fig11 Pattern of cutting with laser cutting machine Fig12 Re draping through simple cuts in silk organza 100% Nylon Folded cut out layers Fig 13 Re draping through simple cuts Top: Nylon 100% , Pants: PET 100% Overview: Fig 14 Abstract CUT IT ! Started from Chinese paper cutting technique. The aim of my project is an exploration of Chinese paper cutting technique in relation to body and clothing. My question is how to transfer traditional craft into digital form and how to bring in the eastern aesthetic essence in a fashion context? CUT IT ! is built up from a translation of the paper cutting technique into construction of garments from different perspectives. This article is through exploring Fig 15 Paper flowers, excavated from QianFo Dong, Cave 17.China, 9th-10th paper cutting technique aiming to discover the possibility Centuries paper. Ink, pigment Courtesy of the British Museum of developing conceptual design based on traditional craft which come to a composition of the result in 9 outfits of CUT IT is a collection exploring paper cutting as the surface of the women wear. The proper occasion is show or museum. skin and related to body. The project is a composition using modern industry technique to present the possibilities of the traditional handcraft. For me it is important to show different stages of paper cutting concept cause the technique is the key of the whole work. INTRODUCTION 1.1 Paper cutting I choose paper because of its accessibility: it’s an ‘open’ material. We all have the same memories of paper, and I can use your experience to make you understand what I am saying.”---Thomas Demand (D'Alton, 2009) Architect Frank Gehry is quoted as saying: “Paper is structure, if I can make it out of paper I know I can build it” (Petry, 2011) 1.2 Paper cutting in the world Paper cutting travels from China to Korea and Japan. Japanese paper arts included origami (folded-paper sculpture), katagami (cut-paper stencils used for dyeing leather and textiles). As paper moved from East to West, so too did the techniques and styles of papercutting, becoming known by different names. Such as Sanjhi in Indian, scherenschnitte in Germany and Switzerland. Wycinanki in Poland, from its styles and techniques were preserved over the centuries as part of folk culture and are being produced today by such accomplished papercut-cuter as the Swiss artist Ernst Oppliger. Folk art paper cutting traditions also flourished in Jewish communities. Equally well known are the cut tissue papel picado, that were often strung across interiors and streets in Mexico during festivals and religious occasions. “Artist worldwide have focused their attention on techniques of paper cutting to create two-dimensional works as silhouette-removing sections of paper to permit light to create a contract between foreground and background- and as the first step in assembling separated pieces to build three- dimensional forms.” (Sentance, B. & Sentance.P. 2009). Chinese paper artist explored the medium in many applications- from paintings and calligraphy to printed texts, currency and decorations. A significant number of artists included in Slash: paper under the knife break with the silhouette tradition and take paper into the third dimension by creating constructions that range from textural wall composing ‘explosions’ that engage both architecture and space. Chinese Paper Cutting & Function The reason of exploring paper cutting is that I am wondering how much expressional potential paper cutting has. By experimenting with texture and forms, I am exploring if and how digital contemporary form can present the handcraft Chinese paper cutting in garments. In the past, not everyone could recognize words; in that case, visual signs seemed to be a better way to spread ideas. Paper cutting could be considered as a visualized cultural memory to keep on the generation and communication. In one way, it functions as words, as it provides us with plenty of historical traditional meaningful information, so we should pay attention to folk art especially from folk life. Paper cutting is not only for the festival decoration, which belongs to the cultural field. It is also a way for Chinese countryside women to express their inner world. They cut not because they consider it as an artwork, but it can be a diary they write; it is their religious and personality that could encourage their poor living situation. They are paper artists, they sculpture the plain paper to show the great possibility of it and use it to reflect their life, dreams and ambitions. Paper artists also inspired my project in shape, concept and style. Sun and Wang (2011) stated that ‘Chinese paper cutting is always connected with society and religions.´ It is a way to present their best wishes. Paper cutting is still popular now, it is considered to be a great classic folk art, which is strongly confirmed by the Chinese national spirit. According to the discovered results of archaeology, we had paper cutting since 420AD in the Southern and Northern dynasties of China. The oldest and most widely used paper cutting style in China is Tuan Hua. This style is often used for decorating windows on spring festival, wedding or as a gift with the best wishes. Function of paper cutting is symbolizing, communication and identity. (Sun &Wang. 2011) Symbolizing Paper cuttings often have a heavy emphasis on Chinese characters symbolizing the Chinese Zodiac animals. All parts of the country can see paper- cuts; have even formed different local style schools. According to traditional Chinese culture, it can mean good fortune , happiness and represent life and a new beginning. Some times their neighbor will give some paper cutting as a wedding gift to wish happiness. The other veiled symbol of paper cutting is connected with Female Reproductive System. It is usually used by some special patterns and sign to imply having many sons and grandsons and the prosperity of the family. The most common patterns are melon vine and fruits. One melon vine can bear many melons, which is a symbol for a woman who can have many children. (In the past of China, elders believe children symbolize the prosperity of the family.) Identity Paper cutting has completely inherited the themes and patterns of the ancient folk arts, as the graphic interpretation of life continuation, which have interpreted the Chinese philosophy of yin and yang and the concept of worship procreation embodied with the simple and beautiful language. By series of reflection and expression of patterns and designs, it has expressed the infinite symbolic meaning of the tangible paper-cutting art. In the rural area of China, many woman devoted themselves to paper cutting. Although they have not taken regular education about art and beauty, but they have the special inspiration gnosis apperception regarding paper cutting. They created a lot of personalized artwork with folk art symbol. The paper cutting is realized as a kind of traditional culture and continually been researched and spread by Chinese women. Communication Paper-cut for window decoration not only bring the happy atmosphere of the festival to people, but also consist worthy of watching and knowledgeable with multiple function. Paper cutting is a very popular art craft and is loved by Chinese people. Because they would placed paper cutting on the window and it’s named Window Flower. Many topics can be used into the creation of Window Flower. Most of the target consumers are farmers, thus it used to represent the life of farmers, such as cultivating, textile, fishing, pasture and so on. Others, the themes are also related to traditional legends, operas and stories. In addition, birds, fishes, flowers, and insects are also common themes. It implies good wishes, hopes and happiness through its special symbolization on a variety of patterns. Design programme ‘CUT IT!’ is developed based on the first year project “when paper cutting meet fashion” and the second year research project ‘Transfer’. “When paper cutting meet fashion” investigates the structure in garments through paper cutting combined with pleating in order to develop a material experiment composition. In this project, searching for the direction in clothing based on development in material, silhouettes and structures, and translate paper cutting from 2D flat art into a 3D garment. By analyzing Chinese paper cutting in culture perspective is the start point. Cultural based design Searching for the relationship between medium and form aim to develop different expressions of paper cutting in body and the challenge is the way that translating sketches into real size garment.
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