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Home , American cuisine, Cajun cuisine, Napoleon House, Paul Prudhomme

THE BIG EASY GUIDE TO FINE DINING

NEW ORLEANS’ LIST OF BEST RESTAURANTS

ARNAUD’S 813 Bienville Street - - 504.523.5433 - www.arnauds.com Entrees: $25 & Up - French / Cajun / Creole

Arnaud's seems to have the lowest profile of all the classic old restaurants, but undeservedly so, since it tops them in quality. You need to try at least one venerable, properly New Orleans atmospheric establishment, and that one should be Arnaud's, which is doing some of the best culinary work it has in years. Delicious fish dishes include snapper or trout Pontchartrain (topped with crabmeat). Any filet mignon entree is superb (the meat is often better than what's served in most steakhouses in town), in particular the filet au poivre, while the more daring might want to try the crispy, not gamy, pan-fried sweetbreads. The Foster are spot on, and one crème brûlée fan said Arnaud's was the best she'd ever had. In addition to the formal (and seriously New Orleans) dining room, there is the more casual jazz bistro, with entertainment at night. – NY Times

BAYONA 430 Dauphine Street - French Quarter - 504.525.4455 - www.bayona.com Entrees: $25 & Up - International, French /

A dedicated -owner who is a local treasure, superior , and one of the loveliest courtyards in the restaurant scene -- all reasons to eat at Bayona. Be sure to begin with the outstanding -of- , a perennial favorite. Knockout entrees have included medallions of lamb loin with a lavender-honey aioli and a zinfandel demi-glacé; a perfectly grilled chop with a stuffing of fontina , fresh sage, and prosciutto; and yet another lamb dish, this one topped with goat cheese, that may have been the best lamb we've ever tasted. Entrees come with a well-balanced selection of sides such as gnocchi, puréed butternut squash, or fresh sweet corn. A light on Saturdays features three courses of tapas-like plates you can mix and match for $20. – NY Times

COMMANDER’S PALACE 1403 Ave. - Uptown - 504.899.8221 - www.commanderspalace.com Entrees: $25 & Up - American, Cajun/Creole Cuisine

The much-beloved Commander's is perhaps the symbol of the New Orleans dining scene, and for good reason. The building has been a restaurant for a century, it's at the top of the multibranched Brennan family restaurant tree, and its chefs have gone on to their own fame (Prudhomme and Emeril ring any bells?), plus they mentor their own outstanding local staff to keep the tradition going. Dinner is always good, and it's often superlative, as is the list (not to mention lunch and brunch, lower-priced options well worth considering -- if only for the 25¢ martinis!). The current menu reflects chef Tory McPhail's constantly working imagination and his commitment to locally grown and sourced ingredients. To really experience his talents, spring for the seven- "Chef's Playground" tasting menu. The menu changes frequently, but the fresh seafood and seasonal specialties never disappoint; on our last visit we were bowled over by the Creole mustard-crusted sliced rack of lamb. Your waitperson will tell you to order the pudding soufflé. Do so. – Frommer’s

DOMENICA 123 Baronne Street - CBD - 504.648.6020 - www.domenicarestaurant.com Entrees: $20-$30 per entrée -

It would be enough if Domenica were nothing more than a place, because its are something else: crisp-bottomed examples of the high art that occurs when various iterations of , meat curing, craft and heaven cheese come together in the dry heat of a wood-fired oven. It also would be enough if it were only a restaurant that served as cunning as fine pastry or one that roasted goat in cast iron to be served with seasonal around the custardy, golden yolk of a yard egg. I'd go so far as to say that Domenica would have substantively enriched our appreciation of Italian cuisine if it were just a salumeria, dishing out sheets of house-cured coppa and moist squares of soppressata di Toscana with tumblers of Montepulciano. As it happens, Domenica is all of these things. Chef Alon Shaya’s & partner John Besh’s efforts amount to more than the sum of Domenica's parts. It's the best Italian restaurant in New Orleans at a time when there never has been more competition for the title. – NOLA.com

GALATOIRE’S 209 Bourbon Street - French Quarter - 504.525.2021 - www.galatoires.com Entrees: $25 & Up - French, Southern Cuisine

If you need a reminder of what early twentieth century fine dining was really all about, we have one word for you: Galatoire’s. Shunning menu trends and protectively maintaining a clubby, timeless atmosphere, Galatoire's has earned bragging rights as the quintessential classic Creole restaurant. Here, tradition is revered, and we can't imagine beginning a without the goutte or the grand goutte, palate-stimulating samplers of the rémoulade, crab meat maison and shrimp maison sized to fit your table's head count. Fried and en brochette, sautéed fish lavished with seasoned crab meat and lightly charred lamb chops still reign on the white-linen tablecloths. The downstairs opposing mirror panels embellish the sidewalls, appointed with glittering brass fixtures. The noise level can become rather elevated as the evening wears on, as bittersweet Sazerac and old-fashioned fuel much of the energy. Waiters continue to offer frank advice on the freshness of the seafood and any other matter you might care to bring up. By the way, be sure to say these two words to your server: “soufflé potatoes.” -- Gayot.com

GW FINS 808 Bienville Street - French Quarter - 504.581.3467 - www.gwfins.com Entrees: $25 & Up - Seafood Cuisine

An off-Bourbon success story since 2001, GW Fins is nearly a French Quarter institution, which can obscure that it is a seafood restaurant unconcerned with adhering to Louisiana seafood mores. The daily changing menu draws on what is available fresh for delivery from around the globe, not just the Gulf, although there’s that too; blue crab pot stickers in pea shoot are a relatively new addition to Fins’ list of greatest hits, and parmesan-crusted speckled trout with crisped capers and brown butter was a highlight of a meal in July. Chef Tenney Flynn has been running a tight ship in the tumultuous heart of the Quarter for a long time now. And it is the rare night when you won’t find him or partner Gary Wollerman at their respective posts, ensuring that customers find something nearly as comforting as Fins’ hot and baked-to-order pie: a familiar face. –Frommer’s

HERBSAINT 701 Saint Charles Avenue - Warehouse District - 504.524.4114 - www.herbsaint.com Entrees: $25 & Up - French, Southern Soul, American Cuisine

Herbsaint would be the locally made pastis found in, among other places, the popular local , the Sazerac. As a restaurant, it's an alternative to similarly inventive but much higher-priced peers in the Quarter, with thoughtful dishes planned by 2007 Best Southeast Chef Donald Link. Be sure to try the Herbsaint, , and shrimp -- it always sends us into rhapsodies, and we aren't even soup fans -- and the "small plate" of fried ' legs, because when else are you going to? Fresh, beautiful can come delectably decorated with seasonal ingredients or lush extras like burrata cheese. Carnivores might weep over the splendor of the meticulous pork-belly preparations, which can be a 3-day process. The are often simple, but usually standouts. – Frommer’s

IRENE’S CUISINE 539 St. Phillip Street - French Quarter - 504.529.8811 - www.urbanspoon.com/Irene's Entrees: $15-$25 - Italian Cuisine

Irene's is somewhat off the regular tourist dining path, but just follow the garlic scent until you see a long line. In a constantly changing world, waiting for a table at Irene's is something you can count on, even with reservations. But the French Provincial and Creole-Italian food in this dark, cluttered warren of small, somewhat romantic if tight-packed rooms is worth it. Ultrafriendly waiters and Irene herself provide prompt service. The menu is heavier on meats and fish than the house-made pasta; locals know that Thursday is osso buco day, and we've known duck aficionados to pledge undying allegiance to the Duck St. Phillip (in a raspberry-pancetta demi-glace). We were thrilled by the whole fried soft-shell crab atop pasta with a cream of garlic, crawfish, tomatoes, and wads of whole leaves. The panned oysters and grilled shrimp appetizer can be magnificent, and don't forget the pollo rosemarino -- five pieces of marinated, partly cooked, marinated again, and then cooked a final time. Desserts, alas, are the usual suspects (repeat after me: crème brûlée, bread pudding, torte. – Frommer’s

K-PAUL’S LOUISIANA 416 Chartres Street - French Quarter - 504.524.7394 - www.kpauls.com Entrees: $25 & Up - Seafood, Cajun/Creole Cuisine

Cochon may get all of the press these days, but it will take years — not to mention an incalculable number of televised demonstrations — for that great Cajun restaurant to overtake K-Paul’s when it comes to impact and raw fame. K-Paul’s opening in 1979 triggered the national infatuation with and the then-unprecedented celebrity of founder . It is ground zero for much of the confusion surrounding the terms used — namely Cajun and Creole — to describe the food we eat in south Louisiana. K-Paul’s great innovation was to treat Cajun cuisine not as sacred text but as other restaurants treat : as an identifier and framework in which to innovate. It gave the world blackened Gulf fish, which in this kitchen’s hands is fantastic. So is the chicken and . And the stuffed pork chop. And the giant fried legs I’d put before anyone who doubts the amphibian’s culinary virtues. --NOLA.com

MR. B’S BISTRO 201 Royal Street - French Quarter - 504.523.2078 - www.mrbsbistro.com Entrees: $25 & Up - Cajun/Creole, Modern American Cuisine

This deceptively simple place had major storm damage requiring about 18 months of laborious renovations. Regulars, who counted on having lunch here several days a week, are thrilled to have their restaurant back. The food, mostly modern interpretations of Creole classics, is simple but peppered with that elevate the flavors into something your mouth really thanks you for. The crab cakes are about as good as this dish gets. Superb, too, is the not-too-spicy andouille sausage -- get it in everything you can. Gumbo Ya Ya is a hearty, country-style rendition with chicken and sausage, perfect for a rainy day. The unusual pasta is a variation on a classic dish -- Gulf shrimp, andouille, duck, and chicken, tossed with spinach fettuccine. The Cajun barbecued shrimp are huge and plump, with a rich, thick, buttery sauce. This is our favorite version of one of our favorite dishes; it's so tasty it makes you greedy for every drop of sauce and completely oblivious to the silly bib they make you wear. – NY Times

NOLA RESTAURANT 534 Saint Louis St. - French Quarter - 504.522.6652 - www.nolarestaurant.com Entrees: $25 & Up - American, Cajun/Creole, Southern Soul Cuisine

Nola’s energy level and color content are high on both the first and second floors. Most of the food holds its own in this brassy décor. At 's French Quarter establishment, however, savoring the kitchen's handiwork requires a liberal tolerance of rich ingredients and bold spices. There are flavorful surprises with most dishes, such as the grilled Gulf fish topped with truffle butter, or the candied on top of the roasted duck. The perennial favorite at Nola’s is “Miss Hays Stuffed Chicken Wings.” Cast all of your nutrition ideas to the wind when it comes time for . Get this: warm chocolate cake donuts with salted caramel pudding and . – Gayot.com

TOMMY’S CUISINE 746 Tchopitoulas St. - Warehouse District - 504.581.1103 - www.tommyscuisine.com Entrees: $15 to $25 - Italian/Southern Soul Cuisine

Tommy's garnered an immediate following after breaking away from the legendary Irene's in the Quarter, as it served many of the same revered Creole Italian dishes. It still does, including the fantastic chicken Rosemarino, marinated in olive , garlic, and , and the duck Tchoupitoulas, which some consider the best duck dish in New Orleans. But Tommy also brought with him some traditional ideas (and some heavy ) from his prior days in some fine local (the Sazerac Restaurant, Galatoire's). The simplest ones fare best, like Marsala, and a shrimp linguine was glorious thanks to the stellar local crustacean. We like to retire to the hopping wine bar next door for an after-dinner glass on weekends, when the piano holds sway. – Frommer’s

LOCAL LUNCH, , & BRUNCHES

ACME HOUSE 724 Iberville St. - French Quarter - 504.522.5973 - www.acmeoysterhouse.com Acme serves quality oysters in an atmosphere that is somewhere between a saloon and a family restaurant. Located right on the doorstep of the French Quarter, it’s not uncommon to see people lined up outside on the sidewalk waiting for a table or a coveted spot at the small, marble-topped oyster bar. The menu offers a solid rundown of casual New Orleans classics with an emphasis on fried seafood and po’ boys. Sip on a cold Abita Brew while you’re there.

AMERICAN SECTOR 945 Magazine St. - Warehouse District - 504.528.1940 - www.americansector.com The American Sector in The National WWII Museum puts a sassy new spin on the most popular staples of American cuisine. Old traditions become new favorites as Chef John Besh transforms , hot dogs, chicken and , , and more into delicious new dishes for you to enjoy in this charming setting. Generous portions, vintage cocktails and décor combining the best of old and new makes the American Sector the perfect destination for lunch, dinner, snacks and spirits.

BRENNAN’S RESTAURANT 417 Royal St. - French Quarter - 504.525.9711 - www.brennansneworleans.com Breakfast is the signature experience at Brennan's, but it serves classic Creole cuisine all the time. Dining at Brennan's is a lavish experience, with decadent dishes that evoke a more opulent Victorian era. Start any repast with the Creole French soup or the gumbo. Breakfast usually presents a pair of poached eggs with one of several meats, seafood or vegetables. Best bets are the tiny buster (soft shell) crabs when in season; the oysters Rockefeller; and sautéed escalope of veal with crab meat. Cream- and butter-rich sauces tend to mask the main ingredient's flavor, so ask for sauce on the side. The menu suggests a wine selection for each course; the restaurant boasts one of the most extensive wine collections in the city, and one of the most meticulously maintained cellars. Bananas Foster was invented by Brennan’s and is still flamed tableside. Finish with another traditional ritual: café brulot, for which liqueur-laced flambéed is artfully poured along a long spiral of peel before being ladled into demitasse.

CAPDEVILLE 520 Capdeville St. - Warehouse District - 504.371.5161 - www.capdevillenola.com Capdeville gets credit for initiating the run on gastropubs that has been one of the bigger New Orleans dining stories. There is little not to like about its late kitchen hours, creative cocktail list or Southern-accented take on contemporary bar food. Capdeville’s most lasting culinary legacy might be its lionization of cheese fries. There are four varieties, including one without cheese (garlic and pimenton). Try some with and manchego.

CAFÉ DU MONDE 813 Decatur St. - French Quarter - 504.581.2914 - www.cafedumonde.com Since 1862, Café du Monde has been dispensing steaming mugs of café au lait and beignets, New Orleans' distinctive, -dusted fried crullers. Situated across from Jackson Square in an arched, partly enclosed space, it's a fascinating place to people-watch or celebrate a balmy day. The ideal time for stopping by is just before dawn, when seats are easy to come by and the French Quarter's frantic pace subsides. But it's also a good spot for ending a night on the town in the wee hours. There is always music playing from somewhere nearby, mixed in with the sounds of steamboats roaring up the adjacent . This is quintessential New Orleans.

CAFÉ MASPERO 601 Decatur St. - French Quarter - 504.523.6250 - www.urbanspoon.com/cafemaspero Upon hearing complaints about the increasing presence in the Quarter of "foreign" restaurants, such as Subway, one local commented, "Good. Shorter lines at Maspero." Locals do indeed line up for burgers, deli sandwiches (including a veggie !), seafood, and grilled marinated chicken. It's good food in large portions at low prices -- it even has a decent wine, , and cocktail list. No wonder there are lines.

CENTRAL GROCERY 923 Decatur St. - French Quarter - 504.523.1620 - www.centralgroceryneworleans.com A Sicilian-American gift to New Orleans culinary culture, the huge two-hander features soft, -studded bread filled with , salami, mortadella, mozzarella and a marinated chopped green olive . Legend holds that Central Grocery is the muffaletta's oldest still-operating purveyor.

COCHON BUTCHER 930 Tchopitoulas St. - Warehouse District - 504.588.7675 - www.cochonbutcher.com In a town where po-boys and muffalettas call into question the sanity of any soul who opts for a sliced-bread sandwich, Cochon Butcher’s Stephen Stryjewski and Donald Link fight back hard with this Southern spin on grilled cheese. Slices of Swiss and house-cured, uncrisped bacon made from shoulder meat hold their own, but it’s careful layering of -laced greens cooked al dente that nudges the bacon melt onto the bucket list.

FELIPE’S TACQUERIA 301 N. Peters St. - French Quarter - 504.267.4406 - www.felipesneworleans.com In a town that once was short on good Mexican food, Felipe's Taqueria joins the growing number of restaurants determined to change that. Felipe's distinction is that customers get to design their own . Start by choosing your item, such as , tostadas, , flautas or . Then select your meat or filling, including chicken, , , , shrimp and others. Then, decide what complements you want, , , cheese, vegetables, , and more. Once you create your meal, watch the faster-than-lightening cooks make it happen right before your eyes. One room accommodates a big wraparound bar with multiple flat screens, a good place to watch a .

FELIX’S RESTAURANT & OYSTER BAR 739 Iberville St. - French Quarter - 504.522.4440 - www.felixs.com This irresistible French Quarter seafood house is located directly across the street from Acme Oyster House. It is best approached as a speedier alternative for getting a dozen or so cold, freshly shucked oysters rather than anticipated as a true sit-down dining experience. Felix's fans can usually just walk right in and belly up to the oyster bar where the rapidly moving shuckers stand ready to serve. The experience---watching their flying hands---is unparalleled in the world of oyster enjoyment. The house gumbo can hold its own with the best restaurants in the French Quarter, and the sweet fries are strictly Southern.

JOHNNY’S PO-BOYS 511 Saint Louis St. - French Quarter - 504.524.8129 - www.johnnyspoboy.com For location and menu simplicity (po' boys and more po' boys), you can't ask for much more than Johnny's (well, they could stay open later – they close at 3 pm M-TH). They put anything you could possibly imagine (and some things you couldn't) on huge hunks of French bread, including the archetypal fried seafood (add some Tabasco, we strongly advise), deli meats, cheese omelets, , and the starch-o-rama that is a french-fry po' boy. Johnny boasts that "even my failures are edible," and that says it all. And they deliver within the Quarter!

MOTHER’S 401 Poydras St. - Warehouse District - 504.523.9656 - www.mothersrestaurant.net Mother’s offers the kind of you wish your momma cooked. More than a half century after opening, the daily queue at Mother's sandwich counter is as long as ever. If it occasionally includes a cardiologist conventioneer or two, we're not about to tattle. For many tourists and convention-goers, Mother's is the quintessential source of jambalaya, gumbo and hefty with a side of home-style biscuits. Few would challenge the goodness of today's po' boys made with and ham cooked on the premises and laden with shredded and, in the case of the roast beef, the meat shreds and pan drippings known as debris. The chicken gumbo is a winner, as well. As for the methodology of getting served, order somehow triumphs over chaos, and everyone finds a seat, even if it’s just a stool at the shallow counter along the wall.

NAPOLEON HOUSE BAR & CAFÉ 500 Chartres St. - French Quarter - 504.524.9752 - www.napoleonhouse.com Folklore has it that the name of this place was derived from a plot hatched here to snatch the Little Corporal from his island exile and bring him to live on the third floor of this building. Alas, it probably isn't true: The building dates from a couple of years after Napoleon's death. Shucks. But we'll still hang out in the atmospheric environs or on the pretty patio and sip the signature Pimm's Cup, a delightful -y gin remedy. Somewhere between tourist-geared and local-friendly, the Napoleon House serves large portions of adequate traditional New Orleans food (po' boys, jambalaya), plus wild cards like salads with goat cheese, pita and hummus, and, most significantly, a heated muffuletta.

RUBY SLIPPER CAFÉ 200 Magazine St. - CBD - 504.525.9355 – www.therubyslippercafe.net A favorite for locals, the staff understands crowd control, a vital talent in the morning, and the kitchen churns out conventional breakfast dishes with uncommon expertise. It works off the usual script as well. Ruby's Crabcake Breakfast is a crowd favorite. It's centered around a nut-browned cake containing lump meat any chef would be proud to serve, eggs cooked to your liking, creamy-thick and a warm-buttery . The hash is very good, too, and the is fresh squeezed.