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Motifs and Symmetry Characteristics of the Ornamentation on Traditional Greek Woven Textiles from the Area of the Aegean

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Motifs and Symmetry Characteristics of the Ornamentation on Traditional Greek Woven Textiles from the Area of the Aegean Lila Lekka, Sofia Dascalopoulos Motifs and Symmetry Characteristics of the Ornamentation on Traditional Greek Woven Textiles from the Area of the Aegean University of the Aegean, Abstract Department of Cultural Technology This paper presents an analysis of woven ornamentation of traditional Greek textiles from and Communication, the area of the Aegean. The aim of this research is to explore the relationship between Mytilene, Lesvos, Greece woven ornamentation and the technology used for its construction. Ornament forming on woven structures is specific because of the influence and restrictions that weave technology Corresponding author: Lila Lekka Address: Aegeou 10, Maroussi 151 22, imposes on the aesthetic result of the artifacts produced. In this study, a group of traditional Athens, Greece hand–woven fabrics from the Aegean area was digitally recorded. The decoration and E-mail: [email protected] motifs of these textiles /were analysed using the international classification and notation system created by H. J. Woods and M. A. Hann, taking into account the limitations that exist in the case of woven ornaments. This methodology enables the classification of woven ornaments into categories, making possible the comparison of ornament ‘types’ with the weave techniques used. Results of the symmetry analysis of these textiles are presented in this paper and lead to some conclusions that show that technology plays a determinant role in the appearance of woven ornaments. Key words: woven ornament, weave technology, hand-weaving, symmetry group, motif, traditional Aegean weaving. they were produced on very basic looms, n Introduction n The sample and the patterns were inserted by hand Ornamented textiles are an important part during the weaving process, with tech- For this research 597 woven textiles from of a culture’s heritage, on which various niques similar to embroidery and tapes- the area of the Aegean were digitally re- characteristics, influences, traditions and try [9]. The samples of hand-woven tex- corded. These textiles are currently stored ideas are imprinted. Woven textiles con- tiles that survive today, which are studied in the collections of various Museums in stitute a special area of applied arts, since in this paper, are of the period from the Greece and also at the Victoria & Albert the influence of the technology is prob- end of the 18th to the beginning of the Museum collection in London. The tex- ably stronger than in any other area of 20th century. This is a period from which tiles that were recorded and studied come folk art [7]. The weave technology used a satisfactory amount of hand-woven tex- from various islands of the Aegean area determines what kind of ornamentation tiles survive in museum collections. Tex- i.e. Crete, Lesvos, Chios, Syros, Nisyros, is possible to produce. This technology tile samples of earlier periods are very Skyros, Karpathos, Kastelorizo, Astypal- does not only influence the stylisation rare, and thus it is not feasible to record a aia, Kalymnos, Kos, Mylos, Samos, Sko- of isolated motifs, but also the way these group of them. The samples that are stud- pelos, and Rhodes, amongst others, and are arranged in the plane to form a woven ied are usually produced on basic looms, also from the Aegean part of Asia Minor. pattern. The arrangement of woven pat- often with only two or four loom shafts, The techniques used mainly involved terns of Aegean textiles analysed here is and the techniques used are mainly tapes- hand- weaving, with the exception of based on geometric symmetries. Symme- try and the hand-brocading of extra wefts some areas i.e. Asia Minor, Lesvos, try analysis of the woven patterns aimed (a technique also known as ‘embroidery Chios, Syros, where weaving was a de- to provide some insight into the decora- weave’ [10]). Weaving constitutes a very veloped trade, and where hand-operated tive rules of the area’s weaving ornamen- strong tradition in the area, since com- dobby and draw looms were in use. All tation, and their relation to the weave mon technology and techniques seem to this production gradually vanished with technology used. have been in use until the beginning of the emergence of industrialisation. the 20th century when hand weaving was The term “Greek” textiles is used here to gradually replaced by machine weaving. The materials mostly used were cotton, denote textiles that are produced in the For this research a number of hand-wo- silk, linen and wool in various combi- area, regardless of the specific patron- ven samples were recorded. The purpose nations e.g. silk motifs on a cotton-silk age of their motifs, since there has been a of this recording was not only analysis, ground. constant and independent movement and but also digital preservation in the form exchange of motifs with other cultures of a database devoted to this type of cul- The patterns were formed during the over time [8]. The tracing of the origins tural heritage, which can be of use to weaving process using the techniques of of the motifs is beyond the scope of this designers and researchers. The woven extra weft brocading (157 items), which paper, as the main focus is the influence patterns were analysed using the Woods is used in two variations: with continu- of weave technology on motifs and sym- – Hann system of notation and classifica- ous or discontinuous supplementary metry. tion [1 - 6]. Although a lot of research has weft, creating floats on a plain weave been done on Greek textiles in the past, ground, tapestry (134 items), also divid- Hand-weaving techniques have been this type of systematic analysis has not ed in two subcategories: slit, dovetailed used in the Aegean area for a very long been applied until now, and can give way or interlocked tapestry1), twill weaves period. Studies of prehistoric images of to more conclusions, and also the oppor- (120 items) - in the variations possible patterned Aegean textiles suggest that tunity to conduct comparative studies. on the usually 4 shaft looms used, card 74 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe July / September 2008, Vol. 16, No. 3 (68) weaving (8 items), and drawloom weav- peated patterns, and therefore conform to ing (104 items), although this technol- symmetries that can be analysed. ogy is used in very few areas. Almost all the hand ornamented textiles were weft The international classification and nota- faced, making the weft that is inserted by tion system of ornamentations divides all hand visible. Most of them have stripes regularly repeating weaving ornaments of plain weave between their patterns, into three classes: finite ornaments, which are thus arranged in horizontal mono-translational and di-translational bands, which will be subsequently ana- ornaments. These three classes, depend- lysed. ing on the combinations of the four basic symmetry operations, are subdivided into two, seven and seventeen (only twelve for n Research question weaves [7]) groups, respectively. More and methodology explanation of the classification of orna- The aim of this research is to examine ments is given by D. K. Washburn and and analyse the ornamentation of these D. W. Crowe [11]. The textile patterns Figure 1. Diamond motif: detail of a woven textiles, as well as the motifs and will be analysed and classified into these wall-hanging woven with the slit-tapestry technique, from the island of Karpathos. symmetries that form the patterns, in or- groups according to their symmetry. der to establish the predominant ones. This will allow the examination of the in- n Analysis terrelation of symmetry preferences with the weave techniques used, exploring the Motifs particular relationship of woven patterns Most of the motifs found in hand-weav- with technology. ing techniques (tapestry and extra-weft brocading) are geometric, mainly abstract The analysis of patterns was made possi- and some represent recognizable things ble – apart from the descriptive approach like plants and figures, but are extremely that has been applied to the analysis of stylised. The main ones from the 291 tex- Greek textiles until now – with the use tiles produced with these two techniques of the method of geometric analysis by are: diamonds, simple geometric shapes, Woods and Hann. This method, based on geometric plants, eight-pointed stars and Figure 2. Diamond motif: detail of a blanket woven with the discontinuous extra-weft the principles of crystallography, clas- geometric figures. Diamonds were found brocading technique, from the island of sifies patterns, including woven ones, in 64% of the samples, they usually have Karpathos, circa 1900. based on their geometric symmetries on d2 symmetry and, more rarely, d4. There the plane. It constitutes an extremely val- are two different types of diamonds used these motifs with ones from the same pe- uable tool for this research because it en- in the two different hand-weaving tech- riod created with different techniques, we ables the characterisation of patterns into niques (Figure 1 & 2). Simple geometric observe that the ones woven on a dobby different classes or ‘types’, and therefore shapes, such as half diamonds, parallelo- loom always have abstract and geometric allows the establishment of the main or grams and triangles were found in 79% motifs, but are a lot simpler due to the prevailing ‘types’ of a given sample of of the samples, with various symmetries, restrictions of loom technology in the textiles, something not possible with de- usually complementing other motifs. area, which seems to be the basic 4-shaft scriptive analysis. This is important when Geometric plants were found in 17% of loom, producing structures such as her- the research incentive is the unveiling of the samples, which have a d1 symmetry. ringbone, diamonds, squares etc. In draw the common structure of these “types” of They are found exclusively in extra-weft loom examples from the same period, the patterns rather than just the verification brocading techniques.
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