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Screwplate with taps for threading wire or -~ re-threading stripped threads on screws. Wood storage box keeps all taps conveniently together with screwplate. Sizes 0.7-2.0mm. - Includes 14 keys, sizes 00 to 12. Features a miniature pin vise and 12 tiny ~ . broaches made of high carbon cutting steel. Sturdy steel shanks with Broaches are five-sided for enlarging holes and traditional brass caps. range from .05- .55mm. Made in Germany. 95 50 #56.136 ...... $2295 #74.1014 ...... $8 #15.540 ...... $17

national phone orders: fax orders (24 hrs): linger & Co. 1-800-328-0205 1-800-548-9304 * local phone orders: local fax: 1165 Medallion Drive • Saint Paul, MN 55120 Supplying Quality Tools, Parts & Service for Over 80 Years! 651-452-7180 651-452-4298 HoROLOGICAL,. HoROLOGICALTM TIMES Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute TIMES EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES VOLUME 30, NUMBER 3, MARCH 2006 American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute (AWCI) 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 Phone: Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 or (513) 367-9800 Fax: (513) 367-1414 FEATURE ARTICLES E-mail: [email protected] 6 Prerequisite for Rolex Spare Parts Account Website: www.awci.com 8 The Hublot Solo T Tourbillon, By Ron DeCorte Office Hours: Monday-Friday 8:00AM to 5:00 PM (EST) Closed National Holidays 18 Certification Central, By Vince Schrader & Jerry Faier Donna K. Baas: Managing Editor, Advertising Manager Education: Things to Conie Katherine J. Ortt: Associate Editor, Layout/Design Associate 32 Identifying a Missing Repeat Pull, James E. Lubic, CMW: Executive Director By David J. LaBounty Education &Technical Director Lucy Fuleki: Assistant Executive Director 34 Business Basics, Part 3, By Dr. Paul Stairs Thomas J. Pack, CPA: Finance Director Laurie Penman: Clock Instructor Manuel Yazijian, CMW: Watchmaking Instructor COLUMNS Certification Coordinator 14 The Modern German Clock Movement, By Mark Butterworth Nancy L. Wellmann: Education Coordinator Sharon McManus: Membership Coordinator Part 61, Kuckucksuhren or Cuckoo Crazy Mary Huff: Shipping Coordinator 24 The Deadbeat Escapement, By Laurie Penman Heather Weaver: Receptionist/Secretary Jim Meyer: IT Director

HOROLOGICAL TIMES ADVISORY COMMITTEE DEPARTMENTS Ron Iverson, CMC: Chairman 2 President's Message, By Jim Door Brien Dews, CC Matt Henning, CW 2 Executive Director's Message, By James E. Lubic Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW 4 Questions & Answers, By David A. Christianson Robert D. Porter, CMW E-mail: [email protected] 37 AWCI Material Search

AWCI OFFICERS 38 From the Workshop, By Jack Kurdzionak Jim Door: President 41 Bulletin Board Mark Butterworth: 1st Vice President Dennis Warner, CW: 2nd Vice President 42 AWCI New Members Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW, FA WI: Secretary 43 Classified Advertising James K. Zimmerman, CMW, CMC, CMEW: Treasurer 48 Advertisers' Index AWCI DIRECTORS Mark Baker, CMW 48 AWCI Employee Directory Gene Bertram, CC Matt Henning, CW Roland (Ron) Iverson, CMC EDUCATION Gerald Kincaid: Affiliate Chapter Director Doug Thompson, CW, CEWT: Research & Education 23 AWCI Academy Watchmaking Classes Council Director 23 AWCI Certification Exam Schedule Willem Van Kempen: Industry Advisory Board Director 30 ETA Combination Course IMMEDIATE PAST PRESIDENT Basic Quartz & Mechanical Automatic Chronograph Watch Repair Jack Kurdzionak, CW 47 AWCI Evening Classes in Watch and Clock Repair FELLOW-American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers lnstiMe Robert F. Bishop ·Harold J. Herman James H. Broughton J.M. Huckabee SPECIAL INTEREST Fred S. Burckhardt Gerald G. Jaeger Alice B. Carpenter Benjamin Matz 17 2006 AWCI Annual Convention & Educational Symposium David A. Christianson Robert A. Nelson George Daniels ·Hamilton E. Pease 41 Horological Association of Virginia Annual Convention Wes Door Archie B. Perkins •Henry B. Fried William 0. Smith, Jr. Josephine F. Hagans Milton C. Stevens •Orville R. Hagans ·Marvin E. Whitney Ewell D. Hartman 'Deceased

Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written permission from the American Watchmakers-aockmake" Institute. Copyright ©2006 by the American Wa!i:hmake ...aockmake" Institute. COVER HOROLOGICAL 7/MES (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watch· This month's cover features the makers-Cockmakers lnstiMe, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030.1696. Subscription price for the Hublot Solo T Tourbillon public is $79.00 per year {$6.50 per copy). Members subscription is $35.00 which is incKJded with annual dues of $79.00. Periodicals pos~ge paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and addilional entries. POSTMASTER: Cover photo courtesy of Hublot Geneve Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL 7/MES, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH President's Message Jim Door

"Beware the ides of March." Thus the soothsayer warned Julius Caesar. But he ignored the changes around him and ultimately was killed on the ides of March (March 15).

One thing we can count on is change. It will come whether we want it or not. Ignoring it will not stop it. Our world is not the same as it was 30 years ago; the same goes for our industry. Many of the basic skills needed to work on clocks or watches may not have changed, but there have been many advances in lubricants, materials, new types of timepieces and improved methods for dealing with repairs.

As a retailer I have learned that my competition is not just the stores that sell watches and clocks but also those selling DVDs, computers, cars, etc. We are all competing for a piece of the disposable income of the consumers. This is even true in repairs. "Shall I have Grandpa's pocket watch fixed or use that money to buy a digital camera?"

We have long realized that to compete we must offer something better, something of value. To do so we must keep learning, keep improving our skills and knowledge. For this purpose we have all joined the AWCI.

Major watch manufacturers realize this also. Although they may be competing for the same consumer dollar, they realize to do this they must offer not only a good product but also one that maintains value by being serviceable. This requires numerous trained service personnel, not only in their own service centers but also across the coun­ try. They are working with the A WCI in this mutually beneficial concern. (Continued on page 31.)

Executive Director's Message James E. Lubic, CMW

The month of March is the first month that the magazine goes out to those who renewed their membership with A WCI for 2006. If you have received this issue that means that you have renewed your membership, and I would like to thank you for your membership and your support of A WCI.

Next month I will have the most up-to-date membership numbers available and will relay those to you at that time. In the meantime if you meet a fellow watchmaker or clockmaker please be sure to tell them about A WCI. Our toll free number is easy to remember, 866-FOR-AWCI (866-367-2924) and we would be glad to mail them a sample magazine with additional information describing our many benefits.

On February 9'\ lO'h and ll'h the AWCI mid-year Executive Committee meetings took place here in Harrison. The Industry Advisory Board (lAB) met on Thursday. This was the first time the lAB has met during the mid-year meeting. The items discussed and progress made during this meeting showed the Executive Committee that the lAB is truly working to be partners with the A WCI. The biggest news coming from the meeting was Rolex USA sharing a copy of a letter that will be sent out to all who apply for a Rolex spare parts account in the future. The letter "Prerequisite for Rolex Spare Parts Account" outlines for the applicant what is expected of them prior to moving forward with the application process. The complete letter can be seen on page 6. This is good news for AWCI as the letter specifically states that "An applicant must be recognized as a Certified Watchmaker with the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (A WCI)." This is also good for the watchmaker as it informs the individual what is expected of a watchmaker who has a Rolex Spare Parts Account. We hope that other companies/ brands will follow Rolex's lead and publish similar policies. (Continued on page 31.)

2 Horological Times · March 2006 LDDKIRO!

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Question of the movement. Conclusion: you have an I am sending pictures of a watch with a fif­ eight-day watch. This arrangement of the teen jewel movement, double roller, jew­ barrel and train allows all the components eled lever, serial# 1043070. There is no to fit in a reasonably compact space and still other identification of any kind. I think it provide a long duration pocket watch. is Swiss because of the setting system near the pendant. Can you identify this watch? Long duration watches have long presented Gene Sheppard, janesville, WI a challenge to the ingenuity and skill of the watchmaker. Space is one of the problems; Answer another is the difficulty in maintaining a Your roughly 64 millimeter pocket watch constant power throughout the duration of is definitely Swiss-made; with crown wind­ the running of the watch on one winding. ing and pin setting of the hands in what The most common way of overcoming these appears to be a gun metal case. The pin set­ problems was: the introduction of a sec­ ting tells us the watch was made between ond barrel; the introduction of an extra 1870 and 1900 when stem setting came into wheel; or, as in yours, the use of an extra­ common use. long mainspring.

A closer look at the movement reveals an (Continued on page 13.) unusually large mainspring barrel and an unusually small balance wheel for the size

4 Horological Times · March 2006 .lltn·el %'tR-a/; ~ t& (J/

neAffi 9?Jendv ilv 2 00 6 •

Standard Custom Deluxe European Ergonomic This fine piece of furniture will reflect Beautiful wood workbench features 15 You work at your bench for many years, your professional abilities. Features 10 drawers of various sizes and a canvas don't you and your body deserve the best. drawers and a cloth catch tray. Maple or catch tray. A safety groove across front These bench are used by Swatch and are Oak with 2" butcher block tops. Straight of top and a lip on the three sides pre­ ergonomically designed to reduce strain. front or with armrests designed to reduce vents parts and tools from rolling off. The height adjusts 10" and armrest tilt is stress and help you work more efficiently. Shipped in two cartons via freight col­ adjustable. Special mount for air & vacuum 175-250 lbs., 48&62 W x 26 D x 38&40" H. lect, 126 lbs., 39 W x 201/2 D x 39" H. and vice. A Shelf unit on top not shown. BN225 $489.00 One bank of drawers $1100 -1500 220-400+ lbs., 49&57 W x 26 D x 37-47" H. Dual bank of drawers $1725 -1870 Various models $3000 - 5000

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Also regular butterfly These nicely made stainless steel clasps type are easily opened by pushing in the side Stainless steel trifold watchband clasps 18 different butterfly buckles all in one buttons. Fastens securely when buttons with security lock are available in a push­ handy assortment. Fine quality polished are released when closing. Asst. contains button-style in 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, and all stainless steel butterfly buckles in 1 each- 12, 14, 16, 18, 20mm sizes. 22mm sizes. Easy to use and with added assorted sizes and styles. Includes 6 security. St. steel only. 2 of each size. tapered pushbutton styles. Refills range 18A-280 5 pc. White asst.$ 11.50 from $ 4.50 to $ 7.95 18A-360 12 pc. asst. $ 23.75 18A-281 10 pc. Y & W a sst $ 26.75 18A-260 18 pc. asst. $ 95.00

Jules Borel & Co. Order Desk 800-776-6858 .Jhn·el 1110 Grand Boulevard Order FAX 800-776-6862 .Jin•·el Kansas City, MO 64106-2348 Local 816-421-6110 Prerequisite for Rolex Spare Parts Account

The following letter is a copy of the correspondence which Rolex will send to anyone requesting a Spare Parts Account.

Dear Applicant:

Thank you for your Interest in applying for a spare parts account. At Rolex, we maintain high standards and have certain expectations in terms of professionalism and business ethics of anyone that we do business with.

Please be informed of the following prerequisites which must be met prior to our considering your application for further processing.

Professional Training An applicant must be recognized as a Certified Watchmaker with the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute (AWCI)*. This organization offers certification exams and continuous education programs In support of technical proficiency development. Certifications prior Aug·ust 2005 will need to be upgraded to the new certification. Other types of formal training and certification may be acceptable based on further evaluation.

Workshop Conditions The workshop must be in a clean air environment. Air conditioning is strongly recommended. The layout must provide adequate space for the work bench, spare parts storage, tools and testing equipment. The cleaning and polishing equipment must be separate from the watch service area. Sample workshop designs may be obtained through the AWCI. ·

Tools and Equipment Minimum required equipment must Include: Case Opener, Timing Machine, Amplitude Meter, Crystal-Bezel Press, Cyclomat Final-Test, Demagnetizer, Jewelling Tool, Staking Set, 2-Speed Polishing Machine, Ultrasonic Cleaning Tank, Watch Cleaning Machine and Water-Resistance (wet) Tester. A complete listing may be obtained through the AWCI.

Cleanliness and Organization The workshop needs to be very clean and well organized. Access to a fax machine Is necessary to send spare part orders to Rolex. A computer with software designed to support spare parts inventory management and customer jobs tracking Is highly recommended.

If you have met all of the above requirements, please notify us in writing and we shall continue with the processing of your application. Please note that Rolex makes no guarantees or promises to open any account.

Sincerely, ROLEX WATCH USA, Inc.

* Contact Information (866) 367-2924 or www.awci.com

6 Horological Times · March 2006 Multi-Tool

This is a new all-in-ane service tool from Horotec. It comes with 17 interchangeable keys used for screw-on pushers, tubes, oscillating weight bolts and battery hatch covers. It works with such brand names as Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Omega and Swatch. The kit includes the 17 keys, the master handle and a weighted storage base to keep all of the items organized and accessible.

Stock No. 590.600 Introductory Price $239.90 This would cost almost $300 if purchased separately. Wrench for Oscillating Weight Bolt

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This tool is for removing and inserting friction type case tubes found on most water resistant watches. Now you can remove broken or damaged case tubes and insert new tubes safely with the same tool. It comes with seven different size pins measuring 1.55, 1.75, 1.95, 2.15, 2.40, 2.65 and 2.95mm.

Stock No. 593.062 Your Price $89.95

06 www .Livesavslnc.com www .Livesavslnc.com www.Lives Inc.com The Hublot Solo T Tourbillon

© Ron DeCorte 2005, all rights reserved

Ron DeCorte, CMW

When speaking with Jean­ Claude Biver, Managing Di­ rector of Hublot, you real­ ize the passion he has for the art of making fine watches. "Fusion" is usually the first word you will hear from him, the mix of classic watchmak­ ing with modern technology and materials.

"Solo T", the focus of this article, is the beginning of Hublot's adventure into the world of haute-horology.

Solo = singular, and T = tourbillon, hence the name. I suppose "crisp" would be my way of describing the Solo T (Figure 1). The case is classic Hublot style with twelve screws securing the bezel and serving as hour markers. Two simple but el­ egant hands are in contrast with the sharply detailed dial with the flying tourbillon fea­ tured prominently in the lower sector of the dial space.

From the back (Figure 2) we start to get an idea of "fusion" with the plate design that is a reminder of our modern world of technology, a cir­ cuit board. I'm particularly fond of the flying center

8 Horological Times · March 2006 B

• A

Figure 5

So, what is a "flying tourbillon"? The vast majority of tourbillons have a bridge across the top that supports the upper pivot of the tourbillon cage. A flying tourbillon is supported vertically from beneath Figure] (Figure 4).

With the tourbillon carriage removed from the watch wheel bridge that is very three-dimensional, revealing we can see the support pillar "A" and stationary 4'h and reflecting the inner components. wheel "B" (Figure 5).

Under the dial the flying tourbillon cage stands proud while the setting and winding mechanics are hidden (Figure 3).

0 ~

Figure 6 Figure4

March 2006 · Horological Times 9 If you look closely inside the support pillar (Figure 6) you can see the upper support jewel, the lower support jewel is removed and to the side. A C-clip, lower right, secures the tourbillon cage in the sup­ port pillar.

Components of the tourbillon cage (Figure 7); clock­ wise from 1:00, lower tourbillon platform, balance wheel assembly, escape wheel, pallet fork, escapement bridge, upper tourbillon bridge, and upper balance wheel jewel assembly.

The balance is quite unique having two sectors instead of a complete circle (Figure 8). Four eccentric weights allow for dynamic poising and regulation of timing.

Figure 7 The flying tourbillon in action is shown in Figures 9 and 10.

Let's take a tour of the Solo T from different angles (Figures 11, 12, 13 and 14).

The Solo T from the back is shown in Figure 15.

The dial is subtle but very elegant with extra detail as shown in Figure 16.

A few case details are shown in Figures 17 and 18.

A massive mahogany presentation box protects the investment (Figure 19). 0 Figure 8

10 Horological Times · March 2006 ,..

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N.. Question and Answer (Continued from page 4.)

Your photos show that the movement is large: about 2Y2 inches wide which is about 64 millimeters or about 28 lignes. In American watch sizes it would be about a 40/size, about 1/10 inch larger than the 37/size Waltham automobile clock. Interestingly, the Waltham car clock movement is of similar design except it has two mainspring barrels to allow for the center wheel (2nd wheel) to be in the middle of the movement. Yours has the znd wheel off-center because of the single large mainspring barrel. The hands are centered on your movement with additional motion work under the dial. 0

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March 2006 · Horological Times 13 The Modern German Clock Movement

Kuckucksuhren or Cuckoo Crazy

Part 61 Mark Butterworth

The German title is literally translated Sadly, today the Black Forest manufactur­ "cuckoo clocks" but I think the second part ing is but a shadow of its former self, but in the title is more appropriate. Even the there are two major brands of cuckoo clock most laid-back clockmaker will exhibit some movements still being produced: Regula and emotion when the word "cuckoo" is men­ Hubert Herr. The manufacturer of the tioned. No one is neutral. Everyone has an former (SBS or Thomas Berger) is now a opinion. Some hate them. A very few love large corporation and cuckoo movement and specialize in them. One customer calls production is a small part of it. The Regula himself the "cuckooclockologist," another movements are in the great majority of the fellow member has a "cuckoo clock hospi­ brands for finished clocks being produced. tal." Repair of the cuckoo clock can be very The latter, Hubert Herr, is used principally frustrating with the myriad of chains and in Hubert Herr finished clocks. At one time wires packed into a small space. However, there were a number of smaller makers of they can also be very profitable. movements and finished clocks that ceased

In the mind of the public, the cuckoo clock represents the idealized Germany and the Black Forest. As one German friend told me, "Americans think the German clocks are still made by the Seven Dwarfs and Snow White is the company president." Of course we are selling nostalgia and there is nothing wrong with that. I firmly believe that in marketing, one plays his best cards. If people only want to know what time it is they can look at their cell phones or buy a watch for $5 from discount stores. We have many people of German decent in Muscatine and many more who were sta­ tioned in Germany after the War. They all sent home beer steins, and cuckoo and an­ niversary clocks for their families. Of course, for some, the shock that the clock that cost $25 in the PX fifty years ago will cost a great deal more to repair is too much to bear. For many, with proper education from the repair person and the sentiment involved, the price is well worth it.

14 Horological Times · March 2006 operation one by one. Unfortunately, increasing dif­ ficulty in obtaining parts such as music boxes and gov­ ernors also makes the job of total restoration much more difficult.

This is the first in an occasional series of articles on the cuckoo clock. I have written many articles on the German clock movement and it is not possible to dis­ cuss German clocks without thinking of the cuckoo. As with the start of the other units, I would like to provide some historical background with this first ar­ ticle. I think it is invaluable to know as much about the lives of the people who played such an important part of our clock heritage. Much of this information is pro­ vided by the archives of the Hubert Herr Clock Co., which is the only one to survive making both the clock movements and clock cases. There are cer­ tainly a number of other im­ portant manufacturers left such as Anton Schneider, Hoenes, and Dold and I would intensive effort of the wood carving necessary to make not wish to imply that Hubert Herr is alone. I would these clocks. They also could manufacture the sepa­ also highly recommend the classic The Black Forest rate parts such as bellows, hands, movements, etc., Cuckoo Clock by Karl Kochmann, which gives impor­ and assemble them. tant historical and repair information to those seri­ ously interested, as well as very interesting copies of "In 1808 already, there were 688 clockmakers and lithographic plates. 582 clock peddlers in the districts of Triberg and Neustadt." Note that these "clockmakers" were in Triberg is the capital of the Black Forest region and fact making clocks and were not just clock repair per­ has a wonderful museum devoted to the clockmaking sons. Families would spend the winter months mak­ there. According to company archives, "the first Black ing these clocks in their cottages and by summer the Forest clock was manufactured in 1640 at the Glashof, Black Forest Clock Peddler "wearing their traditional near Waldau. The cuckoo clock was first designed and smocks and carrying the clocks in large holders on made in 1750 (Kochmann puts it at 1730) by Franz their back found a welcome as far away as London, Anton Ketterer in the small village of Schonwald, near Paris, Odessa, and Constantinople." Triberg." It may not be well known, but the cuckoo is indeed a real bird and is native to the Black Forest Many of the final carvings are still done essentially by so it is natural that Ketterer would try and imitate hand and some of the designs are still made from the that sound using a pair of bellows. Kochmann states original models using Black Forest pine and Linden that the male cuckoo bird claims his territory "with wood. the constant cuckoo call." The zoologist Brehm re­ corded one bird returning to the same area for thirty­ Hubert Herr himself was "descended from a long line two years. According to the German historian Jaech, of woodcarvers and clockmakers" and finished his ap­ the idea of using bellows to create the sound of the prenticeship as a woodcarver and founded the firm cuckoo bird came to Ketterer from listening to the that bears his name in 1918. sound of the "wind bellows of a church organ." Well, it certainly pays to attend church! The craftsmen of the Black Forest and innovators as well as marketers in time added automata such as wood This geographic area provided the perfect marriage choppers, water wheels, beer drinkers, etc., and the between farmers and their families with a lot of idle quarter hour quail to various models to arrive at the time in the long winter months, and the very labor clocks we have today.

March 2006 · Horological Times 15 The Hubert Herr movements are not well marked, but they are stamped with the Hubert Herr name on Original ) HUBERT HERR the rear plate. Fortunately, with a couple of excep­ tions, each model comes in only one pendulum length in common use. The basic exception is the 8-day, 2- weight unit that comes in two pendulum lengths. The first model (KW80) is used in the traditional cuckoo clock. The model KW80/1 is used in what is called the New England cuckoo clock or also the American cuckoo clock. This unit has plates measuring 85 mm x 90 mm.

Listed below in the chart are some basics in helping ~ · \. -~ to identify the basic model numbers used.

No. KW 60 62 x 69 mm Later we will discuss the Regula clock movement as well as basic repair and replacement techniques. It is my hope that this gives a new sense of importance to a this area of horological history. ~ Final thought: "Be willing to give the extra effort that separates the winner from the one in second place."­ Anonymous. 0

--;) ·-·':0l.

No. KW 80 90 x 85 mm

HUBERT HERR Model Size in mm Type KW60 62x 68 2-weight, 1-day KW60/1 M 62 X 68 2-weight, 1-day w/2 bird wires KW60/1RM 62 X 68 3-weight, 1-day w/dancing table KW75 75 X 75 2-weight, 1-day KW80 85x 90 2-weight KW80/1 85 X 90 2-weight for New England clock KW80/RM 85x 90 3-weight, 8-day w/dancer table Note that: 7 11 62 x 68 mm = 2 ;,6" x 2 !,6" 75 x 75 mm = 3" x 3" 3 85 x 90 mm = 3 !8" x 3%''

16 Horological Times · March 2006 2006 AWCI Annual Convention & Educational Symposium August 3-6 Join us at the Marriott Seattle Sea-Tac Airport Hotel for the annual AWCI meetings and educational symposium 2006 AWCI Educational Symposium:

Clock Presenters: Brien Dews - Electric Clocks and the Telechron Com­ pany Bob Macomber - Bushing Wooden Clock Movements Vince Schrader & Jerry Faier - AWCI Certification

Hotel Information: Watch Presenters: Room Rate $105 Anthoine Simonin, Watchmakers of Switzerland Marriott Seattle Sea-Tac Airport 1 Technology & Education Program (WOSTEP) 3201 South 176 h St. - Seattle, Washington 98188 Phone: (800) 228-9290 or (206) 241-2000 Ed Euberal - Railroad Pocket Watches Fax: (206) 248-0789 Manuel Yazijian - The Professional Watchmaker www.seattlemarriottseatac.com Behaviors, Practices and Certification

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March 2006 · Horological Times 17 Certification Central

Good News, More Good News, and Still More Good News!

Vincent E. Schrader Ph.D., CMW Chief Examiner

I sincerely hope that by the time you read • Industry members, American and Swiss, this you have had the opportunity to hear "stepped" both monetarily and in kind to all of the good things that have happened support our new process, particularly our concurrently with the Mid-Year Board A WT standards development. meeting, the Industry Advisory Board meeting, and the Board of Examiners • The Board of Directors adopted Stan­ meetmg. dard for Clockmakers, a monumental event.

If you haven't, here it is, in a nutshell: The Particulars The lAB meeting was as well attended as at • The lAB meeting was historic. Rolex any time in its history. Well over twenty announced official recognition of our new members were present. certification process for watchmakers.

lAB meeting attendees included: (front row) Bill Esslinger, Esslinger & Co.; Karen Elliott, Gilden; Charles Berthiaume, Rolex; Mark Butterworth, Butterworth Clocks; Joan Glauser, Tole do Jewelers; Jack Kurdzionak, Eckcells Supply; (back row) Chris Gaber, Newall; Henry Livesay ,Jr., Livesay's; Gerald Wilson, Wm. S. McCaw Co.; Klaus Lehmann, The Swatch Group; Andre Fortier, L VMH; Willam Van Kempen, Richemont; Rick Foster, Cas-Ker Co.; fohn Sokol, Richemont;Jim Kemnitz, Energizer; and Bernhard Stoeber, Rolex.

18 Horological Times · March 2006 We had representatives from Swatch, Richemont, LVMH, Rolex, Cas-Ker, Bestfit, Wm. S. McCaw, Newall, Livesay's, Toledo Jewelers, Esslinger, Ener­ gizer, Eckcells Supply Co., and Butterworth Clock Co. We are still working on our Oriental friends in industry and expect that they will soon join in on our activities.

Our current chairman, Willem Van Kempen, has done a brilliant job of rallying support for our new initia­ Willem Van Kempen, tives, which had included money and technical assis­ Richemont tance on behalf of this board. Monetary contributions A WCI JAB Director from Richemont, LVMH, and others have been generous. have a Rolex parts account will need, among other things, to be certified as A WCI 21" Century CWs. One of our American suppliers, Cas-Ker has gener­ This announcement was posted on the Chronometer ously donated a full page in its regularly published Club website on February 11. It may well have ap­ catalog to A WCI to present its new programs, both peared on A Wlmatters, and the A WCI website as well certification and education, and has said the offer is by now. Shop requirements, tool and equipment list­ good "indefinitely." We know that other parts houses ings were also a part of the Rolex policy announce­ are equally eager to join in. ment. From the perspective of most who viewed these requirements, equipment demands are very reason­ At this lAB meeting Rolex officially "put it in writ­ able. Current account holders will be expected to ing." (To paraphrase a question asked of me at last maintain high standards, correlating to A WCI adopted year's annual meeting.) As of now, those who wish to standards.

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March 2006 · Horological Times 19 Chris Gaber, Newall, and Manuel Yazijian, A WCI Watchmak­ ing Instructor.

contractor to develop this component of our process. Charles Berthiaume, Mark Buttel'Worth and Jack Kurdzionak during the JAB meeting. Our expected time line is to have something on-line within a year. We have a major jewelry chain in tow, ready to help us with piloting this process and hope­ The second bit of good news is that the A WT classifi­ fully will have a product to roll out in 2007. cations of certification have drawn a high degree of interest from the lAB. The parts suppliers as well as Finally, at the Board of Directors meeting, held in the Jewelry Industry Distributors Association GIDA) teleconference, Saturday, February 11, the Board ap­ representative are keenly interested in seeing this com­ proved the Draft Standards for Clockmakers ... a truly ponent of our certification program move forward. historical event, as was the adoption of the Standards Currently, we have announced that we have a pend­ for watchmakers. Below is Jerry Faier's account of ing agreement with an outside credentialing research the experience and the event.

It's Official!

Jerry Faier, Ph.D., CMC Education Committee Chairman

In the most historically significant move in over 750 who are willing to mentor but we need more. If you years of Horology, the circle is complete. IT'S OF­ are certified by A WCI, holding a CW, CMW, CEWT, FICIAL! At the February Mid-Year meeting, the CC or CMC, be it new OR old, you can be a mentor Board of Directors of A WCI unanimously adopted and help with this historic process, and at the same the draft standards for Clockmakers! Now the Clock time help your fellow clockmakers. If you can help, Section of the Education Committee can finish the please contact Nancy Wellmann at AWCI and give layout of the exams to make them ready for pilot test­ her your name, address and business and home phone. ing soon. Next, we will meet to lay out the final ru­ If you read through the new S&P for clockmakers brics that will be used for the analysis of the exams you can review the requirements and how you will fit and put the whole exam together. We still need more into our new certification process. As we approach help, however. We have established a list of members May, we will try to begin our pilot exams so we can

20 Horological Times · March 2006 begin formal trials in June. If you would like to be considered for the pilot exam when all materials are ready, send your name, address and phone number to Nancy Wellmann at AWCI and tell her you would like your name to be placed on the list of potential PILOT candidates. Be sure to say PILOT as you could be placed on the Mentor list by accident and become disqualified because you are not yet certified.

Now that the draft is up and on the Internet (see: www.awci.com/services/ A WCistandardsandpractices.pdf) we ask that you review it and, if you have any com­ ments please let the Committee hear from you ([email protected]). Please keep in mind that the S&P is a guide of the standards A WCI ex­ pects of its clockmakers and the "guideline" we will use to examine future clockmakers. It is long and Vince Schrader and Jerry Faier during the Mid- Year Meeting of complex because the nature of clockmaking is very theAWCI Board ofDirectors. diverse and demanding, but don't let that stop you from your studies! If you are a novice, this is what to study to grow and develop. If you are a seasoned pro­ members and industry advisors who have helped us fessional, here is a chance to test yourself and your build this document. If nothing else, complete your skills. Are you as fine a craftsman as you think? Want certification so you too can become a Mentor and help to better yourself? Test yourself against our expert build a stronger craft!

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March 2006 · Horological Times 21 We are also in need of certain clock movements and guards, all suspension spring parts, no bushings, the materials for use in these exams. If you have an Ameri­ original pendulum, a usable mainspring and all on a can, 8-day TIS mantel or wall movement such as a base (it can have a base with cracks and tarnish), we Seth Thomas #89 style, or a Waterbury T /S, Sessions need those as well! Please help A WCI and dig through TIS, Gilbert T/ S, Ansonia TIS (but NOT with a vis­ your stocks of these older items and see if a tax de­ ible escapement), or an Ingraham T/ S with the wire duction might not be better than the dust they now type strike levers that is complete without solder work, collect. broken wheels/ pinions or mainsprings and with its strap pallets, you can donate this to the ELM Trust Clockmakers, you have waited and now it's your turn. and get a tax deduction and help with our material Look, study, send materials and those of you who can, supply all at once! We are also in need of complete Mentor! On behalf of the Clock Section of the Edu­ 400-day clocks but without dome and key such as cation Committee, we thank all of you for your sup­ Kundo, Schatz, Haller (but NOT with the plastic an­ port and look forward to your participation! Watch chor), and etc., especially those with adjustable Certification Central for more developments as we (Villiamy style) pallets that still have their suspension go forward. 0

WE NEED YOUR HELP!

The AWCI Board of Examiners need certain clock movements and materials for use with the new Certified Clockmaker exams. If you have an American, 8- day T/S mantel or wall movement such as the ones with wire type strike le­ vers that is complete without solder work, broken wheels/pinions or main­ springs and with its strap pallets, you can donate this to the ELM Trust and get a tax deduction and help with our material supply all at once!

A few examples of what we are looking for include: Seth Thomas #89 styles, Waterbury T/S, Sessions T/S, Gilbert T/S, Ansonia T/S (but NOT with a visible escapement), or an Ingraham T/S with the wire type strike action levers. We are also in need of complete 400-day clocks, but without dome and key, such as Kundo, Schatz, Haller (but NOT with the plastic anchor), and etc., espe­ cially those with adjustable (Villiamy style) pallets that still have their suspen­ sion guards, all suspension spring parts, no bushings, the original pendulum, a usable mainspring and all on a base (it's fine even if the base has cracks and tarnish), we need those as well!

Please help AWCI and dig through your stock of these older items and see if a tax deduction might not be better than the dust they now collect.

22 Horological Times · March 2006 AWCI ACADEMY WATCHMAKING CLASSES Manuel Vazijian, CMW Instructor

AWCI is offering a series of watchmaking classes throughout 2006. The series will consist of ten 5-day sessions covering a variety of subject matter. Each 5-day block will cost $475.00. For additional information, contact Education Coordinator, Nancy Wellmann [email protected] or call (866) 367-2924, ext. 303

March 13- 17 Basic Watch Repair, Adjusting and Timing April 3- 7 Introduction to Basic Quartz Watch Repair & Quartz Chronograph Repair May 15- 19 Servicing & Adjusting Modern Mechanical Chronographs June 5-9 Introduction to the Watchmaker's Lathe June 19- 23 Servicing Modern Automatic Watches, Timing & Adjustment July 17- 21 Servicing Modern Automatic Watches, Timing & Adjustment September 11 - 15 Servicing & Adjusting Modern Mechanical Chronographs October 23 - 27 Basic Watch Repair, Adjusting and Timing November 6 - 10 Introduction to Basic Quartz Watch Repair & Quartz Chronograph Repair (No courses offered in August and December)

AWCI CERTIFICATION EXAM SCHEDULE Certified Watchmaker & Certified Master Watchmaker

March 2Q-23, 2006 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH April 24-27, 2006 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH May 22-25, 2006 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH June 19-22, 2006 North Seattle Community College Seattle, WA July 24-27,2006 Saint Paul College Saint Paul, MN August 21-24, 2006 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH September 18-21, 2006 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH October 2-5, 2006 Oklahoma State University Okmulgee, OK

To register for an exam or for more information contact Education Coordinator, Nancy Wellmann at [email protected] or call toll free 1-866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924)

March 2006 · Horological Times 23 The Deadbeat Escapement Part Four The Bent Strip Verge

Laurie Penman

The greatest proportion of American move­ Whatever the reason, the bent strip dead­ ments with deadbeat escapements have bent beat verge will work just as well as when strip verges, they are not particularly good first made, even when it veers away from a timekeepers, I believe the best that can be true deadbeat geometry, which leaves the expected is about two minutes a week, repairer with some relatively simple cor­ which would be bettered by a European rections for damage, or wear. (In addition solid recoil escapement such as a long case to the deadbeat, there are 'half deadbeat' or a French round movement. I am not variations that I will deal with later.) clear what the reason was for producing deadbeat verges without improving the go­ Deadbeat Verges ing train and pendulum. Perhaps it was a Figure 23 shows a typical escapement of matter of upgrading an economically made this type, it may be mounted between the clock in the eyes of the purchaser? plates, or on a post on the outside of the

P is the distance between the back .l'o~ of one tooth tip and the front of the 0.() next Any flat on the top of the tooth is subtracted from P Drop = 10% of P Pallet thickness = 40% of P

Entry drop

Note: many modem escape wheels ha~ a distinct flat at the tip and the measurement pitch is taken from the front of one tooth to the back of the next and does not Include the flat

Figure 5

24 Horological Times · March 2006 front plate, the only difference will be that there is a greater opportu­ nity for manufacturer's errors (straying away from a true deadbeat) in the verge that is mounted on a simple post on the front plate. How­ ever, the outside mounting makes the repairer's task easier because

testing the progress of adjustment The locking is equal at 1 degree and so Is does not require the parting of the the lift at 2 degrees movement plates. These pallets are in pretty good condition, the lock­ ing is equal at 1°, the lifting angle is ;:6(z equal at 2° and the drops only vary by 0.11 mm (about 0.005"). An­ "'"' other important dimension, the thickness of the verge nibs is (as suggested in Figure 5-repeated here) 40% of the pitch of the es ­ cape wheel teeth.

If this pallet wears, is treated badly, or simply gets lost, it can be re­ paired, or replaced by using much The thickness of the verge Is 40% of the escape wheel tooth pitch Figure 23

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March 2006 · Horological Times 25 (from the arbor center to the out­ side of the verge nibs), this is an ap­ proximation for obtaining the im­ pulse angles. For the next step I am attending to the entry pallet only.

A line is drawn from the heel of the impulse face (this is the beginning of the face, where it forms a junc­ The verge with wom nibs ground back to tion with the dead face) to make a leave smooth dead surfaces tangent with the reference circle shown in Figure 24C. Since it is practically useless to dry and scribe 8 a line like this on the side of the bent strip verge it is best to use the grind­ ing method shown in Figure 15 (Part three). The exit nib is not touched, but I have drawn it as a tangent to the reference circle when the entry has a lock of 1°. In Figure 25 we will see what the effect of this is.

Figure 25A shows the verge that might result from making both im­ c pulse faces to the same reference circle and 25B shows the verge swung through the lift angle of 2° plus 1o of lock. It can be seen that there is no way that the exit nib can operate properly, the result of mak­ ing it to the same reference circle as the entry is very often a complete disaster. The effect seen here varies with the proportions of the escape­ The radius of the reference cirCle is half the maximum length ofthe verge arms ment. If the escapement was close to being a 'square escapement' with Figure 24 the center distance equal to 1.414 times the wheel outside diameter the same techniques as were used move the nibs inwards and try to and the span of the verge was a quar­ for the solid pallets. In Figure 24 the maintain the arcs centered on the ter of the periphery it would be a verge has worn but has room for pallet arbors closely as possible. This square escapement. However, the grinding away the worn parts of the is not really achievable without go­ great probability is that the original nibs. The center position has not ing to a great deal of trouble and you never was a square and in order to been altered and you can see that a will see that in Figure 24B the verge remove wear we lowered the cen­ substantial amount has been re­ no longer has faces that are truly ters anyway! moved from the verge, in practice dead. This deviation from the theo­ there should not be this amount of retically correct will make little dif­ Figure 25C shows the verge as it wear on a deadbeat verge. ference to the clock (the error in came from Figure 24 after taking the my drawing is greater than I would minimum amount of metal off the Lower the verge until it is clear that expect in actual fact). For the next entry impulse face, setting a lock of lock can be achieved on the entry step I am attending to the entry 1o and grinding the exit nib until it when the exit nib is riding the out­ pallet only. just clears the outside diameter of side diameter of the escape wheel the escape wheel. (resting on the top of a tooth as at Make a disc with a diameter equal Figure 24A). Bend the verge to to half the length of the verge arm

26 Horological Times · March 2006 B In Figure 25D the verge is swung through 3° to clear the escape wheel (the reference circle gives a pretty good approximation to this swing plus locking angle). The exit pallet has swung down between the wheel teeth. At this point it should have a lock of 1°. Make a mark with a sharp scriber to show the depth of the lock, if the exit nib is now stoned to Note that this impulse fac e is at ttre' wrong angle, link this mark with the end of the if it is ground to the same referenc e circ le as the entry i'"8ulse face too much metal is remowd outside curve, the impulse face is c defined. Note that the end of the Grind exit nib to just clear wheel curve was obtained when the nib was stoned back in Figure 25C, do not shorten the length of the curve.

Figures 25 E & F simply show the verge at entry and exit now that the impulse surfaces have been estab­ lished. The lock on both sides is equal, so is the lifting angle for each Remove the minimum, us ing the reference circle. Note thatthe face has much the same angle as side and the drop is very nearly so. before grinding Measuring Angles E It is all very well for me to quote various angles for the escapement, but how is the clock maker to mea­ sure them? It is easy on a drawing of course, but the practicalities make it difficult to be very accurate on the actual work piece. There are three things that can be done to make it Check verge by swinging through 3 degrees Oift plus lock) easier, the first is to use a ruler and and make sure that the drops are still equal note the swing of the crutch, a mea­ surement of the horizontal move­ Figure 25 ment at a given length of the crutch\

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March 2006 · Horological Times 27 Swing angles for verges Table 1

Pendulum Length Horizontal displacement in inches Inches Beats/hour Swing 1° Swing 2° Swing 3° Swing 4° 39.15 3,600 0.68 1.3 2.05 2.73 31 .71 4,000 0.55 1.11 1.66 2.21 26.21 4,400 0.46 0.92 1.37 1.82 22.02 4,800 0.38 0.77 1.15 1.54 18.76 5,200 0.33 0.66 0.98 1.31 16.18 5,600 0.28 0.57 0.85 1.13 14.09 6,000 0.25 0.49 0.74 0.98 12.39 6,400 0.22 0.43 0.65 0.86 10.97 6,800 0.19 0.38 0.57 0.77 9.79 7,200 0.17 0.34 0.51 0.68 8.78 7,600 0.15 0.31 0.46 0.61 7.93 8,000 0.14 0.28 0.42 0.55 6.55 8,800 0.11 0.23 0.34 0.46 5.49 9,600 0.1 0.19 0.29 0.38 4.69 10,400 0.08 0.16 0.25 0.33 4.04 11,200 0.07 0.14 0.21 0.28 ~ , . will give a fairly accurate angular the bar underneath. On the right of 30 measurement (Table 1). This has the picture a round hole in the plate been arranged to show beats in 1 OOs exposes a pin in the bar and also lim­ 4. per hour, so linear dimensions are its the angular swing of the bar (and not whole numbers. Very short verge) to 2°, which is the most com­ Figure 26a crutches do not allow for accurate mon swing for deadbeat verges. assessment of the swing so use a Larger swings can be allowed for by leader to give a length of at least 4". drilling other holes (of the right Longer pendulums make for easier diameter) and making the pin measurement, of course. removable.

The second method is to mark a Graph 1 translates angular drop, piece of card with lines and angles, lock, etc., into linear measurement. and a cutout so that the junction of Measure the distance at which the the lines can be placed level with the measurement occurs (wheel tooth pivot of the verge (Figures 26a & tip, end of verge arm, etc.) and raise 26b), this is a simple means of a line from this point to cross the checking a movement when the specific angle. Read off the linear verge is mounted on the front plate. measurement on the left. Thirdly and if correcting escape­ ments is a frequently repeating task Graph 2 shows the process. the instrument shown in Figure 27 can be made. It has a long (12") le­ A deadbeat verge is intended to have ver at the back, a slot and pin that a lock of 1°. Point 'a' represents the limits the swing to 3° and a means verge arm length, or radius of 0.85 of mounting an escape wheel and a inches. verge, and adjusting the center dis­ tance. The mounting for the verge Raise a perpendicular from 'a' to swivels in the plate and is locked to cross the gradient fo r 1°. Figure 26b

28 Horological Times · March 2006 Figure 27

Nomogram gi>ing liniar meas.Jrement for drops etc Am.uate to three decimal places.

0.1

0.09 f---!ll

0.08 / / / ..t -c 0.07 Q) 0) / v c _...... v :::"' 0.06 v 0 v ai / _,/"'" / ____$!} ·lii_ 0.05 / ...... - a. _,. ..v ~ e ...... Ill v Q) "0 ~ ~ / v ...... c -g 0.04 Q) --' / 0 / ...... v ,_. -"' / / ~ 0.03 / v / v f.-- -- I-- - v ...... 0.02 v ...... / L.--- ~ ./v/ v l.---- ,...... - -- - / ~ 0.01 ~ v- - f.-- - - h-~ -::- --~ - Graph 1 r- - ..e ~ - !-- - 0.2 0.4 .6 .8 .0 .2 .4 .6 .8 0

Radius of wheel, or length ofwrge ann.

0.05 At the intersection take a horizon­ tal to the left and read the measure­ ./! 0.04 ment at 'b' 0.0075 inches. v / v 4 The lock is an overlapping of 0.007" 0.03 v v / ~ to 0.008"-a little more than the v p 3 [::?" [::::? v rn width of a line on a steel ruler. ./ ..- Q) 0.02 ~ e .:>1! v~ v Ol (.) / L-- 2 Q) In practice, locks of twice this .3 v - 0 ./~ L-- ~ amount are found on most bent strip 0.01 / ..-"' 1-- verges, which give a locking angle b /./ - ---- ..a ~ 1-- of 2°. --- -- 0 ( .2 (.4 ( .6 ( .8 1.0 a Graph2 Radius of wheel, or length of verge arm.

March 2006 · Horological Times 29 ETA Combination Course Basic Quartz (Time and Date only) & Mechanical Automatic Chronograph Watch Repair March 27-31, 2006

Instructor: Alessandro Betti (ETA Swatch Group representative from Switzerland) Location: AWCI Training Center • Harrison, OH

Five (5) day course on: • Introduction to Basic Quartz Repair, Electronic Measurements and Diagnostics using the Witschi Q Test 6000 testing equipment. • Introduction to the ETA Modern Mechanical Chronograph, diagnostics and adjustments. • Calibers covered: Quartz ETA 955.112 and 955.432 Mechanical Chronographs ETA 7750, 7751, 7753 Course Fee: $495.00 (AWCI membership required} Mr. Betti accepts 12 people per class, and registration is on a first come, first serve basis. For further information, or to register for the class contact AWCI Educational Coordinator, Nancy Wellmann. Nancy can be reached at [email protected], or (866) 367-2924, Ext. 303

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30 Horological Times · March 2006 President's Message Executive Director's Message Continued from page 2 Continued from page 2

The same also goes for material suppliers. While they The Executive Committee met on Friday, the lO'h. are competitors they realize that by working with us During this meeting committee reports were re­ they are helping to encourage new people into the viewed. Required motions were made and actions trade (meaning more potential customers) and it im­ taken. The biggest news from the Executive Com­ proves their relationship with existing trades people. mittee meeting is that the Standards and Practices for Clockmakers was approved. This clears the way for By the time you read this the Board will have com­ the education committee to develop a pilot test for pleted its mid-year meeting. Unlike Caesar we are not the A WCI Certified Clockmaker (CC). You can read shirking from change. We are meeting it head on. In much more about the details and future actions in future columns we will discuss how the Board is ad­ "Certification Central" on page 18. dressing some of these changes. 0 I would also like to encourage our members who may be looking for a job to go to our website www.awci.com and scroll down to "Careers" and click on "AWCI Career Center". Once there you can post your resume free of charge. The idea is to populate this section with as many resumes as possible. After reviewing the resumes, those interested in hiring a watchmaker or clockmaker must pay a fee to receive the contact information of potential job candidates.

Please remember to thank our advertisers when plac- ingmo~~ 0

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March 2006 · Horological Times 31 Identifying a Missing Repeat Pull

David J. LaBounty, CMC, FBHI

One of the tasks required of a clockmaker Dedicated Release Lever when restoring a clock is to be able to iden­ In order for the movement to have a repeat tify when something is missing. This is function, it must be equipped with a lever made more difficult when the missing part which, when pulled, will release the strike has no bearing on the overall run ability of train(s). This lever is most often attached the piece but is instead an "extra" feature. to a stud and has the sole purpose of One example that came across my bench raising the strike levers. It will also have a lately was that of a missing repeat pull. hole for attaching the repeat pull string (Figure 2). A repeat pull is nothing more than a string and a brass bobble that, when pulled, re­ Hole in the Case leases the strike and/ or quarter strike A final indication that a clock is supposed trains. This pull is often missing from older to have a repeat pull is a hole in the case for European mantel clocks since the string the pull cord to pass. This hole can some­ breaks and is lost along with the bobble. times be hidden in the nooks and crannies And, since it was an "extra", the owner has of a statue or in the bottom of the clock little incentive to have it replaced if the case. It will generally be on the same side clock is otherwise functioning properly. as the repeat lever, but one should always consider that the case may have been taken There are several telltale signs to help de­ apart and not reassembled properly if the termine whether a clotk originally had a hole is out of position (Figure 3). pull repeat and, if these signs are present, the repeat function should be restored. If it can be determined that a movement is designed to have a repeat function, but the Snail Attached to a Star Wheel pull is missing, it should certainly be re­ One of the easiest things to spot is a snail stored. It is a simple matter to tie a string arrangement that, at the hour, advances the or cord onto the repeat lever and tie a brass snail at the last minute. This arrangement bobble onto the end of the cord. The makes it possible for the movement to bobble can be easily made on the lathe and strike the most recent hour, every time the need not be fancy (Figure 4). The hole in repeat is pulled, until just before the next the end of the bobble can be made a larger hour. At one or two minutes before the diameter than the through hole in order to hour, the snail snaps quickly ahead so as to hide the knot, giving a very professional be ready when the strike train is released result. at the hour and then stays in that position for the next 58 minutes. This arrangement Related Information avoids any possibility of the snail being in a Tardy. French Clocks, Clocks the World position where the rack tail falls in between Over. Parts 1-4. Tardy, 6, rue Milton, steps and gives an erroneous strike count 75009, Paris, 1949. (Figure 1).

32 Horological Times · March 2006 Figure 1. A good indication ofa repeat function is having the snail Figure 4. The repeat function is fully restored with the installa­ attached to a star wheel (shown at arrow) . tion ofthe pull cord and bobble.

Goodrich, Ward L. The Modern Clock. Fox River Grove, IL: North American Watch Tool and Supply Company, 1970, pp. 332-333.

~ Smith, Eric. Striking and Chiming Clocks. Buttler & Tanner Ltd. for David & Charles Brunel House, New­ ton Abbot, Devon, 1995, pp. 27-29. 0

Add beauty and value to clocks, watches, jewelry, and more by learning to Engrave and Set Stones Figure 2. Movements with pull repeat will have a dedicated repeat in a special 5-day GRS combo course. Only two Combo classes lever and a place to attach the pull (shown at arrow). available this year: May 15 - 19 and September 25 - 29. Our easy-to-learn techniques and tools accelerate and simplify engraving and stone setting, Work hands-on so YOU will learn in a fraction of at your assigned, the usual time. Your instructor for the fully equipped Combo class is Christian DeCamillis, an workbench. experienced World Class expert in the Join 11 other business. Class size is limited to guarantee students that have the same a low pupil-to-instructor ratio with desire to engrave plenty of hands-on instruction. and set stones Call NOW. .. seats are limited. as you do. l-800-835-3519 [email protected] •TOOLS • TECHNIQUES GRS •TRAINING Glendo Corporation 900 Overlander Road Emporia, KS 66801 Figure 3. Clocks with a repeat pull will generally have a hole in the case for the pull to pass thro~egh. This hole will also act as a MORE GRS classes to select from: guide and prevent the cord from becoming tangled in the move­ www.GrsTrainingCenter.com ment (shown at arrow).

March 2006 · Horological Times 33 Business Basics Part 3

Dr. Paul Stairs

The Cash Budget what we are really interested in is an un­ Last month, we looked at the cash flow state­ derstanding of how to set up the budget so ment as a method of following the trail of that we can plug in our own data. money into and out of our company. This was another financial statement that looked For the example that is presented in Figure backward in time to give us an idea about 1, I have made some assumptions that have how we are doing financially. Together with allowed me to make some variability in the the balance sheet and the income statement, data. Firstly, the company has noticed that, the cash flow statement comprises the triad with their new advertising tactics, they are of statements that are normally prepared at selling more clocks and watches and are the end of some fiscal period. seeing a drop off in repairs. Thus, we can see that sales for cash are expected to in­ This month, we will cover several topics. crease by three percent per month through­ Firstly, we want to take a look at cash bud­ out the first quarter of 2006. Conversely, geting and then we will move on to some the number of repairs that we are seeing definitions that will be of benefit to us when come into the shop has dropped and we we go on to study certain investment sce­ are expecting that this trend will continue. narios. By scenarios, I mean, for example, questioning what will happen to cash flows Let us assume that we had a very busy holi­ if we decide to hire someone to work the day season during the last quarter of 2005. front office while we are doing repairs in We sold some items on credit and are now, the shop in the back of the store. in January, collecting the revenue from those credit sales. We also mentioned in Let us get started with the cash budgeting the last article that we were going to sell process. This should be very familiar our old quartz watch analyzer and purchase ground for those of you who keep a bud­ a newer model. Therefore, we show $600 get for household expenses. The cash bud­ in cash inflow under "sale of used machin­ get is simply a listing of all the cash receipts ery". We will enter the cost for the new and cash disbursements that we expect to analyzer in a moment. Assuming that we occur over a given time period. In Figure have accounted for all cash receipts, we can 1, I have set up a cash budget for our hypo­ now total these to give total cash receipts thetical company for the first quarter of the for each individual month. Keep in mind year 2006. I have one caveat to admit to that while we can be fairly certain of some concerning the figures I have entered in of the entries we made under cash receipts, each cash inflow or outflow. As I am not a others may be an educated guess but then professional horologist, it may be that you that is what forecasting is all about! are wondering where I got these figures. Quite simply, I made them up. However, Of course, the next major section of our the figures are not of primary concern here; cash budget deals with all anticipated cash

34 Horological Times · March 2006 month of the previous year). For the AAA Watch and Clock Sales and Repair month of January 2006, we see that we Cash Budget, First Quarter, 2006 began with $4,000 in cash. To this we add the net receipts or disbursements January February March we have anticipated for the month. This Cash Receipts will of course yield "ending cash" for Sales for Cash 1 $12,000 $12,360 $12,720 the month of January. (Notice that this Collections from Credit Sales $ 1,476 $ 350 $ 350 figure is carried over as the beginning Repairs for Cash $ 6,500 $ 4,275 $ 4,000 cash entry for the month of February Collections from Credit Repairs $ 650 $ 575 $ 600 of 2006.) Sale of Used Machinery2 31 600 31 0 31 0 Total Cash Receipts $21,226 $17,560 $17,670 Notice also that, for each month exam­ Cash Disbursements ined, we have set a certain minimum Purchases for Cash $ 9,055 $ 9,327 $ 9,598 level of cash desired. The difference be­ Payments for Credit Purchases $ 500 $ 500 $ 500 tween our ending cash and our desired Wages & Salaries $ 4,800 $ 4,800 $ 4,800 minimum cash level is represented in the Interest Payments $ 845 $ 845 $ 845 last line of the statement as the cash Principal Payments $ 475 $ 490 $ 500 budget surplus or deficit. Our ending Tax Payments3 0 0 31 4,000 ~ $ cash for each month is fairly close to Total Cash Disbursements $15,675 $15,962 $20,243 our minimum cash desired. Net Cash Receipts (Disbursements) $ 5,551 $ 1,598 -$ 2,573 However, if there was a large deficit, this would help us to gauge the amount of Determination of Cash Needs external financing that we would need Beginning Cash $ 4,000 $ 9,551 $11,149 to cover operatmg expenses. Net Receipts $ 5,551 $ 1,598 -$ 2,573 Ending Cash $ 9,551 $11,149 $ 8,576 Keep in mind that it is not necessary to Minimum Cash Desired $10,000 $10,000 $10,000 prepare a cash budget exactly as I have Cash Surplus (Deficit) $ 449 $ 1 '149 -$ 1,424 illustrated; you may want to prepare a 1) Assumes a monthly growth rate in sales of 3 percent cash budget for an entire year and make 2) Sale of old timing machine 3) Taxes paid quarterly adjustments to it as you progress through that year. The choice is entirely Figure 1 up to you. However, keep in mind that if you are presenting pro forma cash budgets to a bank for the purpose of ob­ taining a bridge loan, your loan officer may want to see an entire year or more of pro forma disbursements that are expected to occur over the first financial statements. quarter. We also have used credit to purchase items to supplement our inventory during the past year and we now have to take into account cash payments to Introduction to Discounted cover those credit purchases. Notice also that we now Cash Flow Analyses enter the $1,400 we have spent to obtain a new watch In the next section, we are going to deal primarily analyzer and the amounts for any other capital pur­ with some definitions that will be of aid to us when chases. The remainder of our cash disbursements are we go into Part 4 of this series. All of these defini­ self-explanatory and we total these to come up with tions will give us a better understanding of how we go our best forecast for total cash disbursements for each about framing the question: "What if I invest in this month of the quarter. project? Is it going to be a profitable move for me to take?" The next line in our cash budget gives us the net cash receipts or disbursements (subtracting cash disburse­ Time Value of Money (TVM): Would you rather have ments from cash receipts). The last group of figures a dollar today or a dollar a year from now? Of course, in the table give us an idea of how much cash surplus most people would rightly answer that they would or deficit we will have at the end of each month. We rather have that dollar now. Underlying this belief is have a certain figure which is labeled "beginning cash" the fact that a dollar in the present is worth more than (this is actually ending cash carried over from the last a dollar in the future. This is, of course, why banks

March 2006 · Horological Times 35 pay interest to you to have your money right now and on a clock that has come into your shop in the space pay you back the principal and interest at some time of one hour. For that service, you would receive $100 in the future. There are three basic reasons why the from your customer. Now let us assume that you TVM exists: can, over the same period, perform some maintenance 1) Inflation tends to erode the purchasing power of on three quartz watches. You charge the three watch future dollars. customers $30 each for a total of $90. Let us also 2) The uncertainty of receiving the full value of a dol­ assume that these are the only two services that you lar tends to increase in direct proportion to the length can perform. The opportunity cost of servicing the of time until that dollar is received. clock is $90-that is, the opportunity cost of working 3) There is an opportunity cost in waiting to receive on the clock is the return that you would receive from dollars in the future. (I will define and give an the next best alternative (working on the three example of opportunity costs below.) watches).

Discounting: We have all, at some time, lent money Incremental Costs: When we evaluate whether we to a bank by opening a saving account or investing in a are going to make a capital purchase and we prepare Certificate of Deposit. We give the bank money and pro forma cash flow statements, we only pay atten­ they promise after a certain time period, to repay us tion to the incremental costs that will be incurred. the original principal plus some interest at a stated For example, if we are going to pay $100 in mainte­ rate. This is the principle of compounding. Discount­ nance costs if project X is adopted and we would NOT ing is, quite simply, compounding in reverse; we know pay this if we decide to forego the project, then this is or have a good guess at the future value of some sum truly an incremental cost. However, if we were to and want to know what the present value of that sum pay the $100 regardless of the decision, then that $100 is. Of course, we need to know the time period and is irrelevant to our cash flow analysis and is left out of the applicable interest rate to complete the computa­ any computat10ns. tion. Let us say that we are promised one dollar one year in the future and the annual return is stated at Sunk Costs: Suppose that we pay someone $500 to ten percent. What is the value of this promise to pay train us in how to use a new piece of equipment that today? we are considering purchasing. The $500 is non-re­ fundable. We DO NOT include the $500 dollars in p = $1/ $1 + (10%) ($1) our cash flow analysis because that cost is sunk; it is not recoverable. Therefore, it makes no sense to say p = 1/1 +0.10 "Well, I have already spent $500 in training, so I must go ahead with the capital purchase." That expense is p = $0.909 gone; we would incur it whether we purchase or not, so it is irrelevant in our decision. Therefore, the present value of $1 invested at an an­ nual return is $. 909 in today's dollars. Weighted Average Cost of Capital (WACC): How much does it cost you to borrow money? Most of us Net Present Value (NPV): An investment's net do not know right off the top of our heads but this is present value is essentially an indication of how much a critical piece of information to have if we are to ac­ richer you would become if you undertook the project curately evaluate the return on our investments. Again, or made the acquisition. Of course, not all projects let me illustrate by giving an example. You have a total are worthy of our investments and the NPV may turn of $100,000 in debt. (In this example, we are assum­ out to be a negative number which would not be a ing that no capital comes from the sale of stock or wise investment. Put in its simplest terms, the NPV equity.) This amount of debt comes from a number is equal to the present value of cash inflows minus the of sources: present value of cash outflows. Remember we are talking about the present value of the cash flows. $50,000 is borrowed from the bank at a rate of 9 per­ cent per year. Opportunity Costs: The opportunity cost of any in­ $30,000 is borrowed from your credit union at a rate vestment, whether it be an investment of capital or of 7 percent per year. your time, refers to the return that you would receive $20,000 is borrowed from your uncle at a rate of 5 on the second best alternative investment. For example, percent per year. let us assume that you can perform some maintenance

36 Horological Times · March 2006 Let Kd represent your weighted average cost of capi­ tal (we use the subscript "d" because all the money is AWCI Material coming from debt): Search Kd = 0.09(50.000) + 0.07(30,000) + 0.05(20,000) = .076 = 7.6 percent $100,000 EDITOR'S NOTE: If you can supply any of the items listed here, please send details to the A WCI Material Search. But wait, we are not yet at our true cost of capital Do not send the items to A WCI. Members requesting these items will be advised of their availability, and will contact because interest on debt is tax deductible, so our real you directly. Kd can be further refined to: 1 F 5 Rockford pocket watch, 6 size, 11 jewel, Serial #397820, complete mainspring barrel Kd = Kd ( 1-t), where "t" is our marginal tax rate. If you can supply any of these items please contact: A WCI Let us say that our marginal tax rate is 35 percent so Material Search, American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Insti­ our true Kd becomes: tute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. Toll Free: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 305; Phone: (513) 367-9800, Fax: (513) 367-1414 or E-mail: [email protected] Kd = 7.6 (1-0.35) = 7.6(0.65) = 4.94 percent = WACC. The American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute main­ Next month, we will work through a "real live" ex­ tains this unique member service to assist professionals in re­ placing hard-to-find parts for vintage timepieces. There is a ample of how all this mumbo-jumbo works. Stay fee of $10.00 for each search. tuned. 0 The A WCI Material Search first contacts several dozen ma­ terial houses and outlets on behalf of the member to deter­ mine if the missing part is available from any commercial source in the United States or Canada. If the part cannot be found, the search will be listed in the H orological Times. 0

- ~' \\\''

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March 2006 · Horological Times 37 From the Workshop

Jack Kurdzionak, CW

You Are Invited had to possess the skills to adjust parts to Do you have a solution to a watch or clock make them fit and be able to make the watch repair problem that you want to share with function properly after its repair. Today, our membership? Do you have a question most spare parts do not require custom fit­ about a repair problem you would like to ting, due to closer manufacturing tolerances. ask? I invite you to participate in this col­ However, watchmakers still need to adjust umn with your suggestions, questions, and some parts they use. Irving came to mind comments. It is easy. Just e-mail me at during a recent conversation with a distribu­ A WCI or write tor of watch material who called to ask my using the old standby known as the postal opinion about some watchmakers' supplies service. You can even fax me at 513-367- he has available. His company distributes a 1414. generic assortment of stainless steel pins and tubes (used to repair watch bracelets) I will do my best to help you help the mem­ to material houses. The pins and tubes are bership. By sharing your questions and long enough to fit most bracelets needing suggestions, all of our members can ben­ repair. In fact, they are often too long for efit from our combined knowledge and the bracelet at hand, so the watchmaker must experience. The ideas, tools, techniques reduce their lengths to fit each bracelet link and products presented in this column sug­ in need of repair. The distributor mentioned gested by the author and contributing mem­ that some of his customers have asked him bers are not endorsed by any manufacturer, to supply pins and tubes in assorted lengths supplier, advertiser or A WCI itself. that required no fitting. He asked my thoughts about how many sizes would be "Sometimes You Have to be a required to produce such an assortment. Watchmaker" One popular watch brand came to mind The late Irving Cohen, a watch material immediately that uses pins and tubes in the dealer in Boston, would say, "Sometimes majority of its current bracelet production. you have to be a watchmaker," to watch­ This brand alone has over seventy pins and makers who were unwilling or unable to tubes in its own repair kit for bracelet ser­ fit replacement parts such as balance staffs, vice. Multiply this by the prolific number cannon pinions, stems, etc. During Irving's of watch brands now using pins and tubes lifetime of 82 years, nearly 70 of them spent and it becomes immediately evident that a in the material business, the watchmakers comprehensive kit for bracelet repair would had to alter parts (including genuine fac­ be prohibitively large, complex, and expen­ tory material) to make a watch. Some cus­ sive for a distributor to assemble and sup­ tomers asked Irving "Can you supply parts ply to the trade. The distributor concluded that do not require any custom fitting?" that he would continue to supply the pres­ He knew that was not possible and with ently available assortment of long pins and his simple statement about being a watch­ tubes to his customers. Watchmakers have maker, Irving defined what a watchmaker to accept the inevitable task of fitting the had to be willing and able to do in the parts and think of Irving's observation that ... course of repairing a watch. Watchmakers "Sometimes you have to be a watchmaker."

38 Horological Times · March 2006 Those of us who repair watches and clocks as a pro­ diameter (ID), and outside diameter (OD). They fession understand that possessing the skills needed usually fit into a groove in either the case itself or the to fit spare parts makes us professionals in our craft case back. First, measure the width of the groove. This and provides some measure of job security. may be a bit awkward if one uses a vernier caliper, the ] ack Kurdzionak points of which may be too large to measure the groove, but every watchmaker has a groovy gauge Steel V s Stainless Steel readily available, namely his set of screwdriver blades. Some repairers replace a missing stainless steel pin in Screwdriver blades, such as those found in the Bergeon a watch bracelet with one made from a piece of ordi­ set, make a handy set of gauges. If the tip of the 0.60 nary steel. Although it will function as a temporary mm blade spans the groove, the proper o-ring will have repair, if left without proper repair it will return in a cross sectional thickness of 0.60 mm. Then mea­ the future as a much larger problem than just a miss­ sure, with the Vernier caliper, the ID of the groove ing pin. Steel will rust and the steel pin used to repair to select the proper diameter o-ring from the assort­ a bracelet will soon rust and eventually fail. The next ment. If the 0.60 mm groove has an ID of 26.0 mm, repair will be complicated because the rusted piece of an o-ring sized 0.60 x 26.0 x 27.2 will be the exact fit. steel cannot be easily removed, as one made from non­ There is no need to measure the OD of the groove, as rusting stainless steel would be. One A WCI member the properly sized washer as measured by its cross has told this writer how he removes rusted-in steel section and ID will work just fine. pins from bracelets. If the pin cannot be easily driven out of the bracelet, he heats the bracelet link with a Always lubricate the threads and washer contact sur­ small butane torch. The heat breaks the rust and al­ faces of screw on case backs with a proper lubricant lows the pin to be driven out of the link. If the link such as Fomblin (available from our advertisers) be­ has discolored, he polishes the link and cleans the fore closing the case. Finally subject the case to a wa­ bracelet, then fits a proper stainless steel pin to com­ ter resistance test appropriate for the case's water re­ plete the repair. sistance rating. Jack Kurdzionak ] ack Kurdzionak

Common Sense 0-Ring Fitting Each watchcase originally fitted with an o-ring washer to seal the case back should have a new washer in­ CLOCKS stalled when opening the case for service to ensure . that the watchcase will again be water resistant after m a a Z I n e replacing the case back. The selection of a replace­ ment washer is simple if a case specific, genuine part is available. The replacement o-ringwill fit and fit prop­ erly. When the genuine part is not available, the watch­ maker has to select the appropriate o-ring for the case at hand. A void, if possible, visually matching the new washer to the old one. A distorted old washer will be impossible to duplicate, or it may be an incorrect pre­ vious replacement. Matching an incorrect washer will just repeat a previous error. If the o-ring is entirely missing, there is nothing to match.

Material houses supply large, comprehensive assort­ ments of generic o-rings arranged by their three di­ Inside: Sale in Leeds ~ 1 Roberts•rn FAQ mensions, similar to how watchmakers sort main­ A massiv movement kmakersAaules springs in their respective assortments. This writer does not recommend selecting o-rings from the avail­ able loose pack bulk assortments. One can waste too GET YOUR FREE SAMPLE much time searching for washers that may or may not COPY OF CLOCKS be in the assortment. When selecting the proper o­ ring, bear in mind that the o-ring has three critical Tel: 044 131 331 3200 dimensions. Namely, cross sectional thickness, inside Email: [email protected]

March 2006 · Horological Times 39 www.bergeon.ch itself. Hermie now supplies this movement in two Bergeon, the Swiss tool supplier to the watch, clock, executions, either a five-jewel escapement or an eleven­ and jewelry industry now has a website to display the jewel escapement. The lower cost, five-jewel, escape­ products in its catalog. The website is available to the ment is fitted with several plastic components. One public in several languages including English. You can clockmaker says the best feature of the five-jewel plat­ look up the tools or products you need and check form is that it is non-adjustable. He goes on to say with one of their American distributors (several dis­ that the worst feature is that it is non-adjustable. He tributors advertise here in Horological Times) for a says the more expensive, all metal eleven-jewel plat­ current price and availability quote. Non-distributors forms have a more traditional appearance, similar to cannot purchase Bergeon products directly and their those found on submarine style clocks, but lack the price list, shown in the website, is confidential for quality finish of the Swiss-made platform. their clients and is password protected. A call to your favorite distributor will get the price and other infor­ While some clockmakers find these escapements ad­ mation you need to place your order. equate, others are not completely satisfied with ei­ ther platform available today from Hermle. Hermie Ship's Bell Update Clockmakers wishing to use a new Hermie movement Hermle, the German clock movement manufacturer, with a Swiss platform can use the existing platform supplies replacement mechanical ship's bell movements from the worn out movement being exchanged. If the (Hermle ref. 132.071) to the trade through several platform has not been damaged, it can be taken apart, American distributors. These movements, fitted with cleaned, reassembled, adjusted and lubricated before a platform lever escapement, have been produced for being placed into service on the new movement. several decades. For many years they were fitted with Clockmakers using the refurbished Swiss platform a quality Swiss-made platform escapement that per­ have reported very satisfactory results from a very formed very well during the lifespan of the movement good escapement, which keeps excellent time, itself. Hermie no longer fits these movements with mounted upon a brand new movement. Swiss platforms. The cost of the Swiss platform has ] ack Kurdzionak risen so that it is nearly equal to that of the movement 0

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40 Horological Times · March 2006 BULLETIN BOARD

ITEMS STILL NEEDED Do you have information regarding this month's re­ quests? Do you need information about one of this Sir Francis Drake Falling Ball Clock month's responses? If so, send your information or Gordon Beach, Yuma, AZ, is looking for technical/ requests to: parts information for a Sir Francis Drake Falling Ball H oro logical Times Bulletin Board Clock, 1981, made in England. 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030-1696 Levin's Pivot Polisher & Straightener Toll-Free: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307 George Davis, Richland, W A, is looking for a copy of Phone: (513) 367-9800 Fax: (513) 367-1414 the parts list and user manual for Levin's pivot pol­ E-mail: [email protected] isher and straightener Cat. #PSOO. 0

Swart child Friction Jewel Assortment #49004JF David Pierce, Gambier, OH, is seeking a copy of a chart for the Swartchild friction jewel assortment #49004JF.

HOROLOGICAL ASSOCIATION OF VIRGINIA ANNUAL CONVENTION

RAMADA INN AND CONFERENCE CENTER LYNCHBURG, VIRGINIA April21, 22 and 23, 2006

President's Reception Clock and Watch Technical Sessions (Tamara Houk and Bob Ockenden) H.A.V. Annual Meeting TamaraHouk Annual Banquet Members Auction Ladies Program

For registration information, contact Steve Leonard (703) 352-3416 or E-mail: [email protected]

March 2006 · Horological Times 41 New Members

Arizona Michigan Pennsylvania Jacobs, Alan-Phoenix, AZ Bixby, David F.-Saginaw, Ml* Brown, Seth-Shoemakersville, PA Sweet, Timothy R.-Tucson, AZ* Campeau, Steven-Warren, Ml Ficklin, Jordan P.-Lititz, PA Dimercurio, Frank-Ortonville, Ml Haldeman, Matthew D.-Lititz, PA California Doyle, Philip-Sterling Heights, Ml Keeley, Anna-Lititz, PA Coleman, Rick-Irvine, CA* Patrell, Albert J.-Leonard, Ml* Mazzocco, Nicholas-Pittsburgh, PA Kowalski, Stephen-Richmond, CA Zelinske, Michael-New Baltimore, Ml Merritt, Rick J.-Douglassville, PA Manez, Abner J.-Giendale, CA* Smith, Spencer-Lititz, PA Tiburcio, Erwin A.-Fresno, CA Minnesota Szewczak, Michael-Johnstown, PA Veyna, Michelle-Dana Point, CA Byer, Mark-Minneapolis, MN Zakheim, Susan-Los Angeles, CA Chase, Thomas-Saint Paul, MN Tennessee Green, Greg-Saint Paul, MN Knight, Randy L.-Morristown, TN Colorado Kellerman, Robert-Vadnais Heights, Gunty, Kevin-Colorado Springs, CO* MN* Texas Niemeyer, Tyson-Minneapolis, MN Rabe, Timothy-Paris, TX Florida Smith, Jaclyn-Lakeland, MN Sanders, James-Roaring Springs, TX Fernandez, Jose-Hallandale, FL Stehr, Mark-Saint Paul, MN Hess, Jeffrey P.-Saint Petersburg, FL Whitley, Kathleen-Minneapolis, MN Virginia Humphries, Gary-Hobe Sound, FL Wilkes, Joshua-Saint Paul, MN Akin, Valerie-Woodbridge, VA Javid, Bijan-Miami, FL * Winters, Andrew-Minneapolis, MN Sandivar, Romeo-Woodbridge, VA Stockli, Rudolf H.-Boca Raton, FL * Thrasher, Bill-Live Oak, FL Nevada Washington Salgado, Allen P.-Reno, NV Binkley, Chris-Renton, WA Hawaii Bramlett, Ryan-Seattle, WA Hollister, Eric-Wahiawa, HI New Hampshire Danielson, David M.-Lake Forest Schafer, Guy T.-Dalton, NH Park, WA Illinois Kantz, Adam-Seattle, WA Calderon, Robert-Chicago, IL New Jersey Sparks, Nathan-Seattle, WA Farooqui, Laiq A.-Westchester, IL * Kataw, Kaled-Kinnelon, NJ Tam, Lisa-Seattle, WA Kruse, Karel-Guiney, IL Timur, Baysun-Seattle, WA Phillips, Angela L.-Bushnell, IL New York Sebelik, Allan-Quincy, IL Canetti, Nicolai-Pieasantville, NY Wisconsin Hsiung, Danny-Carle Place, NY Grygny, Christopher-Milwaukee, Iowa Morrow, David M.-Amsterdam, NY WI* McWilliams, John D.-Grinnell, lA Tamarkin,Andrew-EastAmherst, NY Kuck, Steven M.-EIIsworth, WI

Kansas Ohio Wyoming Bruce, William M.-Kansas City, KS* Sizer, Suzanne-Cincinnati, OH Murphy, Morris M.-Laramie, WY* Robuck, James-Topeka, KS Oklahoma Louisiana Martinez, Demetrio tV-Okmulgee, OK * AWCI welcomes back these Madere, D. Allynn-Reserve, LA Rohloff, Myles-Broken Arrow, OK individuals who have chosen to Uchiyama, Kentaro-Okmulgee, OK re-instate their membership. Massachusetts Park, Sang K.-Wayland, MA

42 Horological Times · March 2006 ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE We are Factory Authorized Service for: Classified • VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP • TICK-0-PRINT & L&R We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate Advertising recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience.

190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 Regulations & Rates Used Equipment Bought & Sold ~ For Information Ads are payable in advance 90¢ per word, ~ (415) 453-9266 $1.00 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $40.00 per column inch, 214" wide. Classified ads are not FENDLEY &COX commissionable or discountable. Payment WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST can be made by check, VISA, MasterCard, POLISH PIVOTS IN AS 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 UTTLE AS 5 -7 SEC. Discover, Diner's or American Express. RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 The publisher may, at the publisher's sole F!ISSH!:RUH#LAT HES. CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI III'TtHi.c.WR> tr discretion and for any reason and without www.fendley-cox.com MORGAN CLOCK CO. notice, decline to publish or republish any 80~806-2220 9-5 CST ad, in which case any fees submitted or MORGANPIVOTPOUSHER .COM paid for such ads shall be returned or re­ CLOCK GEARS, BARRELS and PINIONS made bated to the advertiser. The publisher re­ from your sample, ARBORS re-pivoted, teeth ATMOS by Jaeger-LeCoultre serves the right to edit all copy. Price lists replaced in gears or barrels. All work Completely overhauled with the of services will not be accepted. Confi­ guaranteed, fair prices fast turn around. longest labor warranty on the planet! dential ads are $10.00 additional for post­ Call Mike Loebbaka, 86 Mullens Lane, Five years on all labor! age and handling. The first of the month is Saugerties, NY 12477; Phone: 800-411-4542, issue date. Copy must be received 30 days tictoc@ oldandnew.com Mike's Clock Clinic in advance (May issue closes for copy on Established in 1982 & devoted April 1S1) . exclusively to the Atmos since 1990. DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, I also overhaul 400-day clocks. HOROLOG/CAL TIMES FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Please call877-286-6762 701 Enterprise Drive Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit http://www.atmos-man.com/atmos.html Harrison, OH 45030 the quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK Toll Free 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307 DIAL OF SEATILE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Suite 625, Phone (513) 367-9800 Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. Fax (513) 367-1414 CLEANING, RESTORATION, E-mail: [email protected] PART MANUFACTURING www.awci.com REPIVOTING- WRIST & POCKET WATCHES FOR ALL TYPES OF CLOCKS & Custom made pivots for balance staffs, arbors, WATCHES pinions. No part too small. Balance staffs and We service and restore all types and grades of arbors made to factory standards. 40 years watches and clocks-Jlecoultre's Atmos- Patek experience. Juliusz Dabrowski, (415) 397-0310, Phillipe- Pigue!- Vacheron Constantin- Rolex (cer­ TRADESMAN jd@ jdwatchworks.com tificate # 0168) Omega· Accutron-tuning forks- elec­ tric-quartz-fuzzes-alarms-minute repeaters- chrono­ VINTAGE POCKET WATCH RESTORATION. graphs- chronometers-any complications- pendant HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH REPAIR watches- pocket watches- antique or new- cuckoo Twenty-eight years experience, guar­ Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton antee, free estimates. The Escapement, clocks- 400-day electronic and quartz - we 500 and 505 Electric watches. Hamilton elec­ retrofit modernize watches to quartz or mechani­ P .0. Box 522, Pooler, GA 31322; (912) 330- tric watches and parts always wanted. Rene 0866 cal-repivoting-stem manufacturing, ( regular or over­ Rondeau, P.O. Box 391, Corte Madera, CA size) free estimates, 30 years in watch and clocks r------, 94976. Tel: (415) 924-6534. E-mail: restoration and parts manufacturing. rene@ hamiltonwristwatch.com I DIAL GCA LA PRECISION Guido C. Alave l REFINISHING TRADE WATCH REPAIR Member AWl, NAWCC Same location since 1994. 30 years experience. 3830 Parkland Dr. Reliable, fast service. Central State Fairfax, VA 22033 Watch Services, 4820 W. 24th St., Phone 703-352-8793 ' li! , Lawrence, KS 66047 (785) 749-4632, Cell 703-627-4054 111 ~· .••• z· - . -- sevenstar80@ hotmail.com Fax 703-352-8077 - • ~ 4 . POCKET WATCH & ! " : ' MARINE CHRONOMETER REPAIR General repair and restoration of antique ARTICLES FOR SALE BEFORE AFTER and complicated watches. Custom parts fab­ Quartz Conversions rication including staffs, verge staffs, stems, SHERLINEPRODUCTS Diamond Dial Conversions levers, and springs. Located in Massachu­ Free catalogs upon request Emblem & Name Personalization setts. Matt Henning, CW (413) 549-1950; www.henningwatches.com Limited Supply on Hand Write for Brochures of Accessories at Old Prices INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. Starrett Collets Now Available ANTIQUE CLOCKWORKS, LTD. 58 W. SUGARTREE CLOCK , MUSIC BOX MAINSPRINGS, GEAR P.O. Box 201, Loretto, MN 55357 P.O. BOX970 PINION CUTIERS, MATERIAL & PARTS CUS­ Toll Free 877-643-7698 WILMINGTON,OH45177 TOM MADE. TAN I ENGINEERING, 1852 St. Rt. 44, Atwater, OH 44201; (330) 325-0645. Cata­ E-mail: info@ AntiqueCiockworksLtd.com (937) 382-4535 L------' log $3.00. www.AntiqueCiockworksLtd.com March 2006 Horological Times 43 ARTICLES FOR SALE / eckce//s Your battery connection, and more ... 379 Main Street Stoneham, MA 02180 Ceres Moissanite Checker; Presidium Diamond Tester; Kagan Ring Sizer; assortments of gold CHECK OUT ECKCELL'S WINTER SPECIALS filled, sterling & 14 kt gold findings; two GS 4-ft. #3 Genuine Dumont steel tweezers crystal cabinets loaded with crystals, foot pedal $17.50 each, $50.00 for 3 pair model. Ted Cuyler, 1900 Edison, Brush, CO; (970) 842-5816 Genuine stems for most ETA models including: ETA 2824-2, ETA2892, ETA255.---, ETA256.---, ETA955.---, ETA956.---, HAMILTON ORIGINAL MILITARY MATERIAL ETA976.002, ETA978.002 Supplying original factory material for the Regularly $3 each. Stock up now at Hamilton Model21 Chronometer, Model22 Deck $1 0 for 5 and $20 for 12. Watch & Military 16 Size Watch Models 23, Sorry, no mix and match for this special price. 3992B, 4992B and 2974B As well as much ma­ www. vibrografusa.com terial for the 950B & 992B Railroad Watches. (800) 514-1270 LARRY CRUTSINGER Terry Kurdzionak, member P.O. Box 8514, Norfolk, VA 23503 AWCI 757-650-9470, E-mail: detent21 @aol.com www.militarywatchmuseum.com STUCK FOR A MOVEMENT? or a watch part? Call Don Kraker's Watch Clockmaking & Modelmaking Books, Videos & Movements. (559) 229-8423 or write 4325 No. The Original DVDs by W. R. Smith, 8049 Camberley Drive, 5th St., Fresno, CA 93726. Troop-Balas Labs Powell, TN 37849. Phone 865-947-9671 ; Silcon-7® Sealant $5.95 E-mail: WRSmith2@ aol.com One-Dip Solution® $10.50 Crystai-Kieer® Rouge $6.50 KT-22 Microlubricant® $3.50 DASHTO INC.fTOM MISTER www.troop-balas.com PO Box 61894 800.423.3294 Virginia Beach, VA 23466 TIIDWif.com http://www.dashto.com SBUOUS AUCTIONS Huge and everchanging selection ruNNY NAM[ ... DOCTOR'S WATCHES- beautiful German de­ Used and new horological items watchmllkars, Jawllln, Colactors, Hobbyists sign, Swiss mechanical ETA movement, good Sold by internet list only out 1118 b8st auctlun 11118 on 1111 Wllb l8llorad to you! price. Contact Mark Butterworth for info at (BOO) TOOLS/EQUIPMENT 258-5418 or [email protected] MATERIAL ASSTS/PARTS • 181 Yllll 118111 POCKET/WRISTWATCHES • PUCE REQIBTS Fill ITEMS WATCH MOVEMENTS Kronoglass - Watch Glass Copy Milling • TRADE & r&01II1f WATCH CASES & DIALS Machine, $2,900, like new, Hollywood, FL; Call And do it all without getting (954) 927-8074. WATCH BRACELETS/BUCKLES MUCHMORE eaten up by auction fees. WE BUY & TRADE ALSO lBIO to 1st Regula and H. Herr Cuckoo Movements tom@ dashto.com Complete selection. Also factory stopper new http://dashto.org Hermie, Urgos, and Kieninger at 60% OFF our regular wholesale prices. Call Butterworth 1-800-258-5418. Register now at bidwit.com!

Watch Repair Tools & Supplies Oock Repair Tools & Supplies... for American and European docks of an types! Horological Repair and Refemte--- Books Browse-- through our inventory and order on-line 14-hours a day/ ••• • TOOLS • SUPPLIES • EQUIPMENT FOR WATCH & www.merritts.com • SAME DAY JEWELRY SERVICE REPAIRS Our new RD06-R007 Catalog of Parts .mel Repair Suppli~ wiU be available With over 50 Years Experience approx. May 1, R006 We Are A Complete Supply House Write for your copy today! •. .$1.00 postpcl. For The watchmaker & Jeweler We are continually adding to our listings online. If you don't see something you need at our e-store, please email, call or stop in and see us. Our MERRITf'S personnel are trained to understand your technical CLOCK & WATCH REPAIR needs and welcome rhe opporrunity to serve you. SVP.PLY DEPARTMENf 3155 PRESIDENTIAL DRIVE, SUITE 102 ATLANTA GA 30340 1800 Weavertown Rd, PH: 770.452. 1415 I 800.535.8560 Douglassville, PA 19518 FAX: 770.452.7540 610-689-9541 FAX: 610-689-0567 EMAIL: MURRDS1 @AOL.COM

44 Horological Times · March 2006 If's About Time Movado Group, Inc. designs, manufactures and markets watches from seven of the most recognized and respected names in time: Ebel, Concord, Movado, ESQ, Coach Watches, Tommy Hilfiger Watches and Hugo Boss Watches.

We have exciting opportunities immediately available for all levels of Watchmakers with the ability to service quartz, mechanical and/or complicated high grade movements.

Depending upon your skill level, you will: handle all types of watch repairs; repair movements; remove and replace movements; recondition and refinish cases and bracelets; repair bracelets. You must have a minimum of 2+ years experience for the positions servicing quartz movements. For the more advanced watchmaking positions, you need to have 4+ years experience with high grade mechanical, complicated and multi-function movements. All positions require a willingness to work overtime as needed.

We offer highly attractive compensation and benefits. For immediate consideration, please send resume, with salary history/requirements a MUST, to:

Movado Group, Inc. Attn: Human Resources 105 State Street, Moonachie, NJ 07074 [email protected] • Fax: 201-267-8070

Equal Opportunity Employer M/F/DN. Only candidates selected for further consideration will be contacted. No phone calls, please. ® MOVADO GROUP I N C. Movado Group, Inc. is publicly traded on the NYSE . Visit us at: www.movadogroupinc.com HELP WANTED WE BUY ENTIRE WATCH COLLECTIONS Call Toll Free 1-800-426-2344 203-366-2500

SPECIALTYMETALS REFINING COMPANY,INC. 1915 Black Rock Turnpike Fairfield, CT 06430

Members: Ron Fried, Better Business Bureau President "/ look forward to Jewelers Board of Trade giving you honest 243 Consecutive Ads and reliable service."

WANTED WATCH BOXES Buy - Sell - Trade We want most major brands. Also buying high­ end jewelry brand boxes. Doug Giard, 586· 774·3684

ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and watches. We have helped over 130 watchmakers in the last six years to dispose of their accumulations. When you're really ready to sell, we're ready to buy! Phone (229) 928-9092. Ask for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: [email protected]

$$ ROLEX PARTS NEEDED$$ Absolute top dollar paid for crowns, old dials, movements, tools, memorabilia, bezels, bands, cases. Small/Large Accumulations Wanted! Watchmaker/Retail Sales/F.T./P.T. Don Meyer • (214) 460·5822 Little experience OK. Salary/bonus/benefits in retail store in Tampa, FL. Fax resume and phone WANTED TO BUY number to: (925) 735·7405 Wanted: Tempo 400 Cleaning Machine Midwest jeweler looking to add another Tempo 400. Willing to pay top dollar, if in good working SITUATIONS WANTED condition. If interested, please contact: Dave Tellmann 937-298-0171 or via e-mail at info@ jamesfree.com Clockmaker, college trained, 18 years expe­ rience, seeking employment, coastal USA pre· ferred. Reply to Box SW22006, c/o Horologi· We pay up to 97% of market for karat gold scrap cal Times, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, 45030. silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment We also :fit glass crystals to return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: Openface, Hunting, and English Experienced English watchmaker. British Horo­ AMERICAN METALSCOMPANY,253 King St., logicallnstitute certified. Has Rolex and Omega Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Established chain drive watches. training, seeks employment in Florida with top 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073 Complete watches, dials, quality company. Reply to BOX SW42005, c/o movements, case springs for sale. Horological Times, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harri­ son, OH 45030. $$ Modern & Vintage Watches $$ Always buying Rolex, Patek Philippe, G F Specialties Apprentice Watchmaker & School of Horology Breitling, Cartier, LeCoultre, Tiffany, 1-800-351-6926 Graduate seeks position with professional Universal Geneve, watchmaker/jeweler in eastern or central Penn­ any fine Swiss wrist or pocket watch P.O. Box 170216 sylvania. Resume and references upon re­ Don Meyer - (214) 460-5822 Milwaukee, WI 53217 quest. (570) 450-0855

46 Horological Times · March 2006 $$ Buying OLD Rolexes $$ WATCH MATERIAL $$ Paying Highest Prices Ever $$ Daytona Cosmograph $10K- $25K DISTRIBUTORS Submariner $1 ,500 - $3,000 Please call us if you are interested GMT $1 ,500- $3,000 in selling your business. IT'S TIME Explorer I $1 ,500 up All replies confidential. TO SELL Explorer II $3,500-$6,500 Contact Pat Cassedy Chronograph $8,000 - $20,000 , r ANY OLD ROLEX WANTED Cas-Ker 1-800-487-0408 A WATCH SERIOUS PRICES PAID jDON'T SELL UNTIL YOU GET MY OFFEii Don Meyer - (214) 460-5822 WE BUY WATCHES ROlEX • PAniC rnu,Jr n: Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, VACHERON & CONSTAN AUDEMARS .,IGUET Breitling, Audemars, Tudor and others. Modern BRE.JniNG • CARTIER $$WANTED ANYTHING$$ or Vintage. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 & OTHERS Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling Panerai - Le Coultre Wilen you're ready to sell ·-,.Call Toll Free Vacheron - AP - Etc. Chronograph movements, cases, dials, parts Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, and watches. Paying: Valjoux 72 - $200.00; 1-800-842-8625 Movements, Crystals, Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Venus 178-$150.00; Longines 13ZN-$350.00; Always prompt paymen/1 Signs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, Valjoux 69 - $350.00; also Rolex 620 NA - Polish Cloths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo Items, $350.00. Dean Samelle, 25 W Beverley St., l A. 7n. Tr A--rcs ANYTHING! Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 Staunton, VA 24401; 1-866-877-8164. v ~Telu'S

AWCI EVENING CLASSES IN CLOCK AND WATCH REPAIR

American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute is offering weekly evening classes (1 0 consecutive Wednes­ days) in clock and watch repair. These will be basic instructional classes, loosely structured to adapt to the needs of the students. Watch and clock classes will run simultaneously on Wednesday evenings from 6:00 PM to 9:00 PM at the training facilities at AWCI in Harrison, Ohio.

Instructors: Laurie Penman, Clock Repair Tom Schomaker, CMW, Watch Repair

Schedule: Spring Session- April 5, 2006- June 7, 2006 Summer Session - June 28, 2006 - August 30, 2006 Fall Session - September 20, 2006 - November 22, 2006 Winter Session - January 10, 2007 - March 14, 2007

Location: AWCI Training Facility 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030

Cost: $400 per 10-week session Registrants must be AWCI members ($83 yearly membership) Tool and material costs are extra

For more information or to register for a class, contact Nancy Wellmann, Education Coordinator 1-866-367-2924, ext. 303ore-mail: [email protected]

March 2006 · Horological Times 47 Advertisers' Index AWCI Employee Directory

Borel & Co., Jules ...... •.. 5 James E. Lubic, CMW (816)421-6110 Executive Director Education & Technical Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 310 Butterworth Clocks, Inc ...... 27 [email protected] (800) 258-5418 Lucy Fuleki Assistant Executive Director Cas-Ker Co ...... inside back cover 1-866-367-2924 ext. 304 (513) 674-7700 [email protected]

Thomas J. Pack, CPA Clocks ...... 39 Finance Director 011 01 31 228 6638 1-866-367-2924 ext. 311 [email protected] Esslinger & Co ...... inside front cover Laurie Penman (651) 452-7180 Clock Instructor 1-866-367-2924 ext. 318 Ferrell & Company ...... 25 [email protected] (213) 627-6031 Manuel Yazijian, CMW Watchmaking Instructor/Certification Frei, Otto ...... •...... 21 Coordinator (510) 832-0355 1-866-367-2924 ext. 309 [email protected]

GRS Tools ...... 33 Donna K. Baas (800) 835-3519 Managing Editor/Advertising Manager 1-866-367-2924 ext. 307 [email protected] Livesay's, Inc ...... 7 (813) 229-2715 Nancy L. Wellmann Education Coordinator 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 Maxell Corp ...... back cover [email protected] (201) 794-5900 Sharon McManus Membership Coordinator McCaw Co., William S ...... 3 1-866-367-2924 ext. 302 (419) 243-3720 [email protected]

Mary Huff Smith Supply House ...... 19 Shipping Coordinator (213) 622-1687 1-866-367-2924 ext. 305 [email protected]

Twin City Supply ...... 13 Heather Weaver (952) 545-2725 Receptionist/Secretary 1-866-367-2924 ext. 301 [email protected] Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp ...... 17 (516) 437-8700 Jim Meyer IT Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 323 [email protected]

American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 Phone: Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 (513) 367-9800 Fax: (513) 367-1414 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.awci.com Office Hours: Mon-Fri 8:00 to 5:00 (EST)

48 Horological Times · March 2006 Call today. These are -hard to find!

-~·4

\.... ~$ '< . ...-· Original Accutron 218 Original Accutron 218 Original Accutron Original Accutron 2300 Crowns #56PY & 5655 Crown #781 242 Step Motor #20.510 Coil #711 900.005.01 10KY 781 Steel Fits 218 Diver 900.005.1 1 ...... $49.00 900.005.09 ...... $49.00 900.005.02 Stainless Steel 900.005.05 $15.00ea 3@$12.00ea $15.00ea 3@$12.00ea G)

Original Accutron Original Accutron Original Accutron 219 Fourth Wheel 2191ndex Wheel 219 Circuit Board Original Accutron Accucell-1 Back Gaskets 1.35 Volt Silver #107 #112 900.(}0 5.23 ...... $49.00 for 218 #G780 Oxide replacement 31}0.005.03 ...... $10.00 9Gu.oo 5.29 ...... $49.00 cell for tuning fork 900.C05.08 ...... $5.00 watches. Replaces for 214 #G735 mercury 343 & 387. While $6.50ea 4@$5.95ea Supplies 900.005.0/ ...... $5.00 0 ffi Las, Original Accutron Original Accutron 214 Hatch Gasket 214 Index Wheel #G736 #112 90G.OG5 06 ...... $5.00 %0.(JiJ 5. 11 ...... $49.00

Used - Reconditioned Accutron 218 Movement Accutron 218 Retrofit Kit Includes ISA 1198/ 42-4 900.005.15 ...... $150.00 Original Accutron Original Accutron Movement & Movement Ring. Used - Non-Running 218 Cell Coil #715 219 Cell Coil #715 900.005.14 218 Kir ..... $25.00 Accutron 218 Movement 900.005.04 ...... $75.00 900.005. 10 ...... $49.00 900.005.16 Ring only .. .15.00 900.005.17 ...... $60.00

CALL 1.800.487 I. VISA' I Cas·~~Co. FAX 1.800.487.5n"n 2550 CIVIC CENTER DR PO BOX 31167 LOCAL PH 513.674.7700 FAX 513.674.0600 CINCINNATI OH 45231-0167 Shop our web site: www.casker.com ~