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Edited by JILL D’ALESSANDRO and REINA LEWIS with ALEX AUBRY, SHIVA BALAGHI, LAURA L. CAMERLENGO, CARLA JONES, SU’AD ABDUL KHABEER, and DEENA ALJUHANI ABDULAZIZ, REMONA ALY, SARIYA CHERUVALLIL-CONTRACTOR, and SHELINA JANMOHAMED DELMONICO BOOKS • PRESTEL Munich, London, New York 13 FOREWORD Max Hollein 14 DONORS AND LENDERS 16 CURATORIAL REFLECTIONS Jill D’Alessandro, Reina Lewis, and Laura L. Camerlengo 20 48 64 MUSLIMS AND GLOBAL STYLE: BEYOND ORIENTALISM: FASHION NOW, MUSLIM MODEST A JOURNEY THROUGH AND THEN FASHION TODAY TWO CENTURIES REINA LEWIS JILL D’ALESSANDRO OF MUSLIM PATRONAGE AT THE PARIS HAUTE COUTURE ALEX AUBRY 74 84 90 STYLING ETHICS: WHAT IS ISLAMIC FASHION AT THE INDONESIAN MODEST AND ETHICAL IN INTERSECTION OF FASHION AND MUSLIM FASHION? RACE, GENDER, CLASS, NATIONAL IMAGE SARIYA CHERUVALLIL-CONTRACTOR AND MUSLIM IDENTITY CARLA JONES SU’AD ABDUL KHABEER 98 108 114 “MY MUSLIM-NESS”: THE RISE OF MUSLIM SPORTSWEAR: FASHION, FAITH, THE MODEST “THE NEXT BIG THING” AND SOCIAL MEDIA FASHION STYLIST SHELINA JANMOHAMED LAURA L. CAMERLENGO REMONA ALY 136 122 132 CATALOGUE SHIRIN NESHAT: MUSLIM JILL D’ALESSANDRO and LAURA L. CAMERLENGO THE ARTIST AS OR MODEST? COVERING FASHION ICON DEENA ALJUHANI ABDULAZIZ SHIVA BALAGHI MIDDLE EAST EUROPE & U.S.A. MALAYSIA INDONESIA STREETWEAR PHOTOGRAPHY STREETWEAR SPORTSWEAR ARTISTS’ RESPONSES 276 APPENDICES SELECTED BIOGRAPHIES compiled by DALIA ANANI GLOSSARY SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY ACKNOWLEDGMENTS INDEX PICTURE CREDITS FOREWORD Max Hollein, Director and CEO Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco There are those who believe that there is no fashion among Muslim This exhibition is organized by Jill D’Alessandro, curator in charge of women, but the opposite is true, with modern, vibrant, and extraordi- costume and textile arts at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, nary modest fashion scenes established around the globe, particularly and Laura L. Camerlengo, associate curator, with Reina Lewis, Artscom in many Muslim-majority countries. Contemporary Muslim Fashions Centenary Professor of Cultural Studies at London College of Fashion, is a much-needed and overdue exploration of a multifaceted topic University of the Arts London. D’Alessandro and Lewis also served largely unexamined by museums. The exhibition features spectacular as co-editors of this catalogue, offering essays alongside Camerlengo creations from this dynamic fashion scene as it traverses different and our outstanding roster of authors: Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz, regional, religious, and sartorial interpretations—ranging from Remona Aly, Alex Aubry, Shiva Balaghi, Sariya Cheruvallil-Contractor, high-end fashion to streetwear and commissioned couture from Shelina Janmohamed, Carla Jones, and Su’ad Abdul Khabeer. emerging and established designers—to consider how Muslims define themselves and are defined by their dress. We further recognize members of the exhibition’s advisory committee, chaired by Cherine Magrabi, whose insights on this project helped The de Young is the ideal venue for an exploration of this subject not only in the challenging task of refining the exhibition’s content matter. The Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco have enjoyed a and narrative, but also in securing important loans for the exhibition. long history of presenting special exhibitions of fashion, notably of And we are extremely grateful to the many fashion designers and individual designer monographs, which have been among some of the artists from around the world who have generously shared their most popular and celebrated shows in the history of the institution. artworks with the Museums, thus enabling the exploration of the However, unlike some of these previous exhibitions on fashion, complex and diverse nature of Muslim dress codes worldwide. We are Contemporary Muslim Fashions is not centered on or connected to one delighted that our exhibition will travel to the Museum Angewandte designer or fashion house. Instead, it presents extraordinary garments Kunst in Frankfurt, Germany, and I thank its director Matthias of immense artistic quality, and it will also shed light on larger political, Wagner K and his staff for their confidence and support in bringing social, and cultural understandings and misunderstandings. this important show to Europe. The Museums also house an encyclopedic collection of artworks from The Museums’ generous donors have enabled us to make this special world cultures, especially in its textile arts holdings, which span presentation possible. We express our warmest appreciation to an nearly three millennia and represent cultures from 125 countries. anonymous presenting sponsor; the William K. Bowes, Jr. Foundation; The breadth and depth of this repository allow the Museums to The Herbst Foundation, Inc.; Sam Hirbod; the Textile Arts Council, bring textile traditions—such as those that appear in the fashions Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco; Frances F. Bowes; Stephanie being made for today’s Muslim consumers—into topical dialogues and Jim Marver; and Susan and Jim Swartz. Additional support is and spaces. provided by Richard and Peggy Greenfield, and Robin Rosa Laub. We are further appreciative of the Museums’ Board of Trustees for Building upon the established textile arts program, Contemporary its continuing advocacy of all of our programs, and Diane B. Wilsey, Muslim Fashions explores the greater cultural and social implications president, for her enduring leadership. This catalogue is published of dress and examines how Muslim women—those who cover with the support of the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation Endowment themselves and those who do not—have become arbiters of style for Publications. within and beyond their communities. During the development of this project we consulted with scholars and representatives from the With nearly 250,000 Muslims living in the six counties surrounding local and global community, who revealed a thriving fashion scene, the city of San Francisco, the Museums are situated in an area with full of fresh images and understandings of Muslim identities. one of the largest Muslim populations in the United States. We are thankful to the many members of the Bay Area’s diverse Muslim Modest Muslim fashion design has been supported and championed communities who joined the curatorial team for conversations about by a dynamic and youthful community of bloggers and social media this program, and it is our honor to now share an aspect of their rich influencers, so including social media as primary material both in this culture with our audiences. catalogue and within the exhibition was a necessity. This inclusion allowed us to integrate a wider diversity of Muslim voices, which is especially important in an examination of communities who are frequently scrutinized and spoken for, but are rarely given the chance to speak for themselves. DONORS AND LENDERS The Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco are grateful to the donors and lenders to our exhibition. DONORS LENDERS PRESENTING SPONSOR COLLECTORS Anonymous Her Highness Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz Saba Ali LEAD SUPPORT Her Highness Sheikha Raya Al-Khalifa William K. Bowes, Jr. Foundation Fatma Al Remaihi MAJOR SUPPORT ARTISTS AND DESIGNERS The Herbst Foundation, Inc. Ridwan Adhami Shirin Neshat SIGNIFICANT SUPPORT Sara Aghajanian Tunde Olaniran Sam Hirbod Wesaam Al-Badry Hanan Ozair and Hessa Ozair Textile Arts Council, Fine Arts Museums Nora Aldamer Dian Pelangi of San Francisco Wadha Al Hajri Datin Haslinda Abdul Rahim Boushra Almutawakel Maha Abdul Rasheed GENEROUS SUPPORT Mashael Alrajhi Abbas Rattani Frances F. Bowes Renni Andriani Shereen Sabet Stephanie and Jim Marver Raşit Bağzıbağlı Khanaan Luqman Shamlan Susan and Jim Swartz Alaa Balkhy Zara Shiri Faiza Bouguessa Yasmin Sobeih Additional support is provided by Richard Bernard Chandran Shiva Vaqar and Shirin Vaqar and Peggy Greenfield, and Robin Rosa Laub. Barjis Chohan Céline Semaan Vernon and Colin Vernon Windri Widiesta Dhari Leah Vernon This catalogue is published with the support Sarah Elenany Mohd Hafizi Radzi Woo of the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation Lalla Essaydi Habib Yazdi Endowment for Publications. Shepard Fairey Itang Yunasz Alessia Gammarota Aheda Zanetti Shadi Ghadirian Rabia Zargarpur Kuaybe Gider Anonymous lenders Hengameh Golestan Tanya Habjouqa MUSEUMS, GALLERIES, AND COMPANIES Izree Kai Haffiz Archaeology of the Final Decade, London Anandia Marina Putri Harahap Barrett Barrera Projects, Saint Louis Hassan Hajjaj East Wing, Dubai Rani Hatta Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent, Paris Mona Haydar Jenkins-Johnson Gallery, San Francisco Langston Hues Meshaal Al Shatti & Partner, Kuwait Nour Kaiss Modanisa, Istanbul Hoda Katebi The Modist, Dubai Rebecca Kellett Museum of Contemporary Art, Chicago Nzinga Knight The Muslim Scout Fellowship, London Melinda Looi The Scout Association, London Mariam Bin Mahfouz The Story Institute, Los Angeles Saiqa Majeed Rania Matar Carmen W. Muhammad Naima Muhammad Sanaz Nataj 16 CURATORIAL REFLECTIONS Jill D’Alessandro, Reina Lewis, and Laura L. Camerlengo Contemporary Muslim Fashions is the first major museum exhibition having their work shown in a museum setting for the first time; and to explore a range of contemporary Muslim women’s dress codes by discussions in contemporary fashion, news, and social media. around the world, focusing especially, but not exclusively, on those Indeed, widespread media interest in Muslim modest fashion—as responding to interpretations of modesty. With 1.8 billion practitioners well as the rise of design talent,

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