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Chocolate Is an Affordable Luxury, and Chocolate Confections Are Available to Suit Everyone’S Preferences

Chocolate Is an Affordable Luxury, and Chocolate Confections Are Available to Suit Everyone’S Preferences

is an affordable luxury, and chocolate confections are available to suit everyone’s preferences. Photo copyright © Getty Images/C Squared Studios pg 22 12.10 • www.ift.org by KAREN NACHAY

As consumers continue hocolate is hot. People continually list chocolate as one of to crave chocolate, their favorite for , bakery, and other Cproducts. For centuries, people have prized the commod- product developers employ a ity cocoa not only for its versatility as a product but also as a tool for commerce. More than 2,000 years ago, the Mayans variety of ingredients and crushed cocoa beans to form an unsweetened liquid consumed during ceremonies; the Aztecs also used the cocoa and techniques in the beans as a form of currency. We have the Europeans to thank for sweetening liquid cocoa and serving it hot and then devel- formulation and manufacture oping processes to create solid eating chocolate. of chocolate confections. As chocolate confections manufacturers gain inspira- tion from developments in other food and beverage industry segments as a way to increase sales and differentiate their products, the humble introduced in the 1800s has evolved into a dizzying array of chocolate options—from bars available in a range of cacao percentages and confec- tions stuffed with buttery or creamy butter to molded into various shapes and bonbons and truffles formulated with bacon, cheese, balsamic vinegar, chili peppers, or even bread crumbs. Some chocolate sup- pliers like Belcolade are going as far as analyzing the profiles of different at the molecular level and then comparing the profiles to those of other and beverages to pair the chocolate with the foods or beverages

12.10 • www.ift.org 23 pg C H To You contains enough flavanols to impart abenefit. toimpart enough flavanols contains ofthe product cocoa thatfit mean does not is main the bene- content claims that of cacao,higher percent is or a , has because a product a just chocolate that emphasize companies The amounts. the nicate to commu- message aswell a to develop uniform studies as basedcocoa on scientific flavanols of measuring a to create standard agreement and cooperation asigned cross-licensing 2010 diastolic. mmHg or 80 systolic mmHg 140 than less reduce mean pressure cantly did signifi- but not pre-hypertension diastolic and hypertension reduced systolic chocolate dark concluded that al. Reid et (2010) jects. sub- in elderly flow blood cerebral the improved cocoa flavanol-rich consuming that showed al. et (2008) Sorond blood. the vessels—in blood and repair maintain that cells—cells angiogenic of circulating amount the doubled than more daily cocoa flavanols consuming that found (2010) et al. Heiss benefits. health circulatory potential cocoa have examined flavanols’ Botanical, with associated not scientists other as as well collaborate, they whom with entists during processing. traditional destroyed ofthe retaining efficacy flavanols, which often are bean’s exposure to highthereby temperatures, cess called Cocoapro™ that reduces the cocoa pro- and It vegetables. usesfruits proprietary its on flavanolsfound in cocoa,tea, wine, and certain Inc., conducts research and product development 2009b). (NCA, Association Confectioners National the by surveyed experts the of 88% to according trend, “big” next the be will products confectionery Healthier well. as benefits health potential with food a as chocolate positioning are researchers and pg 2424 Mars Inc. and AG in February AG in February Callebaut Inc. Mars and Barry sci- and university scientists Botanical Mars Mars Botanical, aof division scientific Mars beverage products. Now, many marketers marketers many Now, products. beverage and food different many so in ingredient versatile a is and great hocolate trial and bakers,artisan , information is meant to inspire indus- that share similar flavor profiles. The r

e a 12.10 l • t www.ift.org h the best-selling chocolate confections. exciting or to enjoy a twist on some of toers indulge in something new and the box of chocolates, allowing consum- product developers are thinking outside of the trends driving sales to show how chocolate confections market and some product trend. everything” as a popular confectionery Expo noted “chocolate-covered Association (NCA) at its 2010 Sweets & then that the National Confectioners edamame—in chocolate. No surprise nuts, and even pomegranate seeds and turers cover all types of food—, Texture is important, too, as manufac- 2010). But it is not just about flavor. development (CDC and Packaged Facts, are two themes driving new confection In fact, flavor adventure and indulgence their product development activities. chefs, and restaurant chefs in ucts were introduced. 2005 when 1,195 new chocolate prod- numbers have been increasing since uct introductions in 2008, the overall less than the 1,873 new chocolate prod- 2010). While this number was slightly in 2009, 1,760 were chocolate (NCA, new confectionery products released 2010, according to NCA. Of the 2,843 the 52-week period ending Sept. 5, ending Sept. 5, 2010, and up 4.3% in 2010, up 5.8% in the 12-week period the four-week period ending Sept. 5, ing Wal-Mart (FDMx) were up 5.9% in food, , and mass retailers exclud- Chocolate confections sales through Uptick Sales Chocolate economy and growing unemployment growth in almost every area of the ucts sold. Despite a recession retarding sales growth outpacing quantity of prod- making health claims account for the i.e. gourmet, products and products the increase in the number of premium, 2010). Manufacturer price increases and of 2.8% from 2008 (Packaged Facts, they reached $17.3 billion, an increase fections sales set a new record when This willarticle examine the overall In 2009, U.S. retail chocolate con- Photo copyright © iStockphoto.com/Pannonia copyright Photo extensions. line and products new developing when ingredients crunchy other and seeds, nuts, and centers flavored creamy, like inclusions to of cacao amounts varying from everything using are rise, confections of chocolate sales As nary Development. Nielsen, Trendologist, Center for Culi- ent flavors and ingredients, states Kara chocolate products that contain differ- create “artisan-like” lines or formulate as several mainstream manufacturers indulge their cravings at all price points able options that allow consumers to has increased, there are still afford- the price of some chocolate products to purchase chocolate. Even though numbers, U.S. consumers continue seasonings, and flavorscharacteristic of Now consumers can enjoy the , at fast-casual and fine dining restaurants. frozen foods, kits, and sauces and ings are quite popular in segments like to 43% of experts. Ethnic food offer- have ethnic characteristics, according and floral flavors, especially ones that ingredients such as spices, salts, herbs, ested in combining chocolate and other Consumers are becoming more inter- in the chocolate confections market. the potential to drive sales and interest noted some up-and-coming trends with (NCA,Report 2009a). The experts and confectionery makers for its Trend researchers, chocolatiers, nutritionists, including manufacturers, market NCA surveyed 40 industry experts, manufacturers manufacturers ALMF100334_ThoughtMolds_FoodTech.indd 1

© 2010 Almond Board of California. All rights reserved. *Mintel Global New Products Database and Sterling-Rice Group, Global New Product Introductions Report, 2008. to millions of consumers worldwide. Talk about a match made in heaven. This sweet combination blends irresistibly tasty with a wealth of nutrition benefits appealing So it’s no wonder almonds are the number one introduced globally for chocolate confectionery products.*A lot goes in with a little almond, especially when it’s going into smooth, creamy chocolate. Good news about good : U.S. Dietary Guidelines recommend that the majority of your fat intake intakeyourfat of majority the recommendthat Guidelines Dietary U.S.fat: good newsabout Good be unsaturated. One serving of almonds (28g) has 13g of unsaturated fat and only 1g of saturatedfat.of 1g only unsaturatedand fatof 13g has (28g) almonds of serving unsaturated.One be VitaminincreasesE antioxidantappeal texturepossibilities Almonds. AddIng jusT wERE you ThoughT you And Crunchinto new • Enticetaste buds aroundtheworld ALMF090334 Thought Mold ABCFSI 11.16.10 they’recraving Givemillions what InDesignCS4 to PDFx4 Food Technology DEC approved/dupe 1.303.381.6425 Michelle Hicks 8.125x10.875 +.125” all -.25” all 100% R1 a premiuma edge Giveyour creations PERFECT PAIR PAIR PERFECT 11/17/10 2:53 PM You Got What in My Chocolate?

ack in the 1970s, a commercial for Reese’s Cups exclaimed, “You got Bpeanut butter in my chocolate!” Now, the statement could be made about a variety of ingredients like probiotics, , minerals, and fruits with high levels of being added to chocolate confections. “Over the last decade, chocolate makers have been responding to consumers’ drive to live healthier lifestyles,” says Curtis Vreeland, a chocolate market analyst with Packaged the most common applications. Ameri- and its reported health benefits, notes Facts. “Their efforts have brought us portion- cans are learning of chocolate’s use as Innova Market Insights. controlled packaging, -free sweets, an ingredient in applications beyond heart-healthy dark chocolate, and fortified con- bakery and sweets. Chocolate, includ- A Premium Choice fections of unbelievable variety and veracity.” ing powder, solid, and nibs, adds flavor, Within the chocolate confections prod- Barry Callebaut developed a process to texture, or color to savory sauces like uct industry are various categories, produce on an industrial scale chocolate BBQ sauce, blends like ones for some more likely than others to drive containing the probiotics Lactobacillus and chili or stew, and rubs, all of which sales. One such category is premium Bifidobacterium. Maramor Chocolates makes are available at gourmet stores and chocolate, and it includes themes like chocolate confections fortified with probiotics specialty online retailers. Chocolate exotic flavors and unusual ingredient and with omega-3 fatty acids. Dagoba Organic manufacturers are always looking for inclusions (Packaged Facts, 2010). Oth- Chocolates offers Superfruit Bar with açai ways to expand their market share, ers identified by Packaged Facts include berries, currants, goji berries, and 74% especially in challenging economic artisan/craft chocolates, raw cacao cacao. Endangered Species Chocolate makes times, and positioning chocolate as products, vegan chocolate, wine-themed chocolate bars with ingredients like açai berries, a ingredient in addition to a chocolate products, upscale chocolate goji berries, maca, goldenberries, and lucuma. baking ingredient is a way to do this, bars, exotic delivery methods, adds Ellek. variations to the traditional bar shape Whether chocolate is used in sweet and size, extreme chocolate, and or in savory applications, it is increas- alternative distribution channels. Manu- some ethnic cuisines in chocolate con- ingly popular, as indicated by Innova facturers of premium chocolates often fections. Other combinations that are Market Insights’ poster display, “Choco- incorporate several of these trends into increasing in popularity are sweet-and- late Choices Expand,” showcased at the the development of a product. savory pairings like chocolate and bacon Institute of Food Technologists 2010 NCA categorizes premium choco- and chocolate and cheese. The willing- Annual Meeting and Food Expo. The late as follows: everyday gourmet, ness of American consumers to try these combined total of chocolate-flavored superpremium, and ultra-premium. types of chocolate products shows that product launches globally in 2009 was Everyday gourmet chocolate sells at up “we are actually witnessing the matura- 20,135, up from 13,493 in 2008. The to $8/lb, and it includes candy brands tion of the American palate,” says Jenn product introductions cross most cat- like Mars Chocolate North America’s Ellek, Director of Trade Communication egories and include , puddings, ® and Hershey Co.’s Hershey’s and Marketing, NCA. syrups, novelties, sauces, and Bliss, is often made using European- Nearly three-quarters (73%) of the beverages. -specified style chocolate-making processes to experts surveyed predicted that the product launches increased from 3,511 produce a smoother chocolate, and is use of chocolate, cocoa, and chocolate in 2008 to 5,805 in 2009 and dark packaged in upscale packaging, i.e., a flavor as an ingredient in main courses chocolate-specified product launches foil-wrapped bar packed in a box or and appetizers will increase. Chocolate increased from 1,863 in 2008 to 3,598 pieces individually wrapped in colorful as an ingredient in cooking, particu- in 2009. The increase in dark chocolate- foil. Superpremium chocolate sells for larly in savory applications, is featured flavored product launches is most likely between $8–$12/lb, and ultra-premium in , being one of due to dark chocolate’s premium image chocolate sells for more than $12/lb.

pg 26 12.10 • www.ift.org Chocolate bars feature nuts, spices, chili peppers, and even bread crumbs for consumers looking for different flavors and texture experiences. Photo courtesy of Chuao

understand the quality that goes into making the products, according to Nielsen. Scharffen Berger, for example, makes chocolate bars from bean to bar in small batches, controlling every step of the process. Although some brands are showing up in mass retailers like Costco and Wal-Mart, many are still sold on a small scale in boutiques and specialty stores. “Just like fine wines, certain , and artisan cheeses, these artisan choco- lates appeal to a connoisseur consumer who is more educated about the qual- ity markers,” explains Nielsen. These Manufacturers of superpremium and they have carved out their own niche; include stating the source of the beans, ultra-premium chocolate confections they make small quantities of choco- offering a range of cacao percentages, operate differently from the major choc- late using higher-quality ingredients formulating the chocolate with differ- olate confections manufacturers in that and often sell it online or at specialty ent flavors and ingredients, calling out they022-10 do AD not SpS try mfo to US1 sell FT as much chocolate food retailers to consumers who pay ingredients, i.e., Ceylon vs as the major manufacturers. Instead, the more expensive price because they cinnamon or tellicherry peppercorn vs tures chocolate confections from cacao sourced in , and its portfolio of chocolate bars, bonbons, and truffles exemplifies how premium chocolate manufacturers are formulating with dif- ferent ingredients to create products with one-of-a-kind flavor and texture. Its & bar features the flavor of coffee combined with star anise in dark chocolate; Firecracker is a dark chocolate bar with chipotle chili, salt, and popping candy; Spicy Maya includes pasilla chili, cayenne pepper, cinnamon, and dark Peanut butter is a popular ingredient in candy, and consumers enjoy it in combination with chocolate. Mars added peanut butter to ingredients found in to develop Snickers Peanut Butter Squared. chocolate; and Panko is a dark chocolate Photo courtesy of Mars Chocolate North America bar with toasted panko breadcrumbs and sea salt. Bonbon confections include pepper, and presenting the chocolates ers have become more sophisticated milk chocolate-covered caramel infused in fancier, higher-end packaging. Many regarding their chocolate choices and with rosemary; dark chocolate-covered consumers who appreciate the formu- are more willing to experiment by try- buttercream made with goat cheese, Pear lation and the skill and labor required ing chocolate confections formulated Williams brandy, and crushed black pep- in producing the chocolates often with different flavors and ingredients. per; roasted panko bread crumbs and purchase local, sustainable, or organic “Premium artisan chocolate makers are olive oil with sea salt covered foods (CDC and Packaged Facts, 2010). more open to using an ever-changing in dark chocolate; dark chocolate Chocolate confections produced on a palette of flavors,” says Curtis Vreeland, ganache infused with green tea; and oth- micro-batch scale appeal to consumers a chocolate market analyst with Pack- ers. Vosges’ 2010 Holiday Truffle Collection wanting authenticity and also play on aged Facts. “Some of these flavors are includes Mascarpone and Ceylon Cinnamon nostalgia for products available before borrowed from the beverage industry Snap, Plum Pudding, Peppermint Candy the mass industrialization of confections (superfruits and functional ingredi- Cane, and Eggnog and Jamaican Rum. And (CDC and Packaged Facts, 2010). ents). Some styles take a page from the its Mo’s Milk Chocolate Bacon Bar combines “Our customer is someone with specialty coffee industry (experiment- applewood smoked bacon and alder culinary curiosity who appreciates ing with product origins and roasting wood smoked salt with milk chocolate high-quality chocolate and is willing to ranges). Some are taken from the res- for a savory–sweet experience. Biss- experience new things,” says Michael taurant and pastry trades (savory and inger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier offers a Antonorsi, Master Chef and co-founder, ethnic flavors). The result of all this dark made with porcini Chuao Chocolatier, a premium choco- creativity is that below the chocolate mushroom and another blended with late confections maker known for surface, there is a host of specialized Courvoisier XO cognac. formulating products with unexpected niches to service a wide spectrum of flavor combinations. “Sometimes that consumer tastes and budgets.” Adding Twists to Mainstream Favorites means spices, and other times that Nielsen points out that the popular- The rising popularity of premium choc- means the comforting flavors of - ity of these types of premium chocolates olates has not gone unnoticed by the comb or bread.” among some consumers stems from the large chocolate manufacturers. Some Since superpremium and ultra- wider trend of people looking for big- have introduced their own “artisan” premium chocolate candy are generally ger, bolder flavors, new layers of flavors, lines of chocolate. Others have acquired sold in outlets that are not necessarily and new combinations of different fla- premium chocolate confections produc- monitored via SymphonyIRI Group vors and ingredients in all of their food ers, and a business transaction like this Inc., this makes tracking the sales of and beverage product choices. “Plain often means greater product distribu- these products difficult, explains Ellek. things do not catch their attention any- tion and an infusion of cash to much Nevertheless, the data NCA obtains more,” she adds. smaller companies. Artisan Confections from SymphonyIRI and other research Companies like Chuao Chocolatier, Co., a wholly owned subsidiary of Her- show that there is growth in the pre- Vosges Haut-Chocolat, and others offer shey Co., markets premium chocolate mium chocolate candy category. plenty to grab the attention of consum- brands Scharffen Berger, which prac- One of the drivers of premium ers seeking a new, exciting chocolate tices “bean-to-bar” artisan chocolate chocolate sales is that some consum- experience. Chuao Chocolatier manufac- making, and Dagoba Organic Choco- pg 28 12.10 • www.ift.org late, which makes chocolate bars—both plain and formulated with various EXREME MEASURES flavors and ingredients—from organic ingredients. Other companies like o what trends are predicted to drive sales less than they have in the past? Extreme dark Ghirardelli Chocolate Co. and chocolate is one (Packaged Facts, 2010). Why? Well, with extreme dark chocolate, the prod- focus on textures and packaging. Both Suct is just too bitter for many consumers, and when you want a sweet treat, you expect it to manufacturers incorporate creamy or have some sweetness to it, says Kara Nielsen, Trendologist, Center for Culinary Development. “oozing” centers into various shapes of Extreme dark chocolate has cacao percentages around 80% or greater, which indeed is quite chocolate—Ghirardelli offers squares, bitter and can be off-putting to people accustomed to milk chocolate and even to some people and Lindt offers balls filled with cara- who like dark chocolate. A popular trend noted by Packaged Facts is extreme milk chocolate, mel or flavored crèmes. The products also called dark milk chocolate. It has cacao percentages that range from about the mid-40s to are individually wrapped in foiled pack- the upper 50s. The exciting thing about dark milk chocolate, explains Nielsen, is that it is the best aging, making them a little more special of both worlds since there is a more pronounced chocolate flavor than you get with milk choco- than a chocolate bar. late, but it offers both creamy milk and caramelized milk notes that dark chocolate does not. In addition to these approaches, the major chocolate manufacturers continue to use classic flavors like peanut butter, caramel, butterscotch, and and with the sweet-and-savory combination salted center covered with M&M’s textures like nuts and crisped rice in of chocolate-covered , and in brand milk chocolate and coated in a col- their benchmark products as well as in May 2010, Mars released its twist on this orful candy shell. When developing new line extensions. Candy lovers are familiar with M&M’s® Pretzel Chocolate , a flavors and line extensions, companies The humble chocolate bar introduced in the 1800s has evolved into a dizzying array of chocolate options.

like Mars examine industry trends and wanting the comfort of the classics can of the most popular chocolate bars research and consumer preferences. find something to satisfy their cravings. available at these outlets as well as “According to industry research, “There are exotic choices for some chocolate confections featuring exotic peanut butter candy is growing at people, but when it comes down to it, ingredients that consumers can pur- nearly twice the rate of the over- your mainstream American loves the chase online and at specialty stores. all candy industry,” reports Lauren classics,” Nielsen says. “You don’t have The product developers of these con- Nodzak, spokesperson, Mars Choco- to make an exotic curry-flavored choc- fections show that by thinking outside late North America. So the company olate product, for instance, because the box of chocolates, they can keep developed Snickers Peanut Butter that still is not going to appeal to up with changing trends and consumer Squared, which combines peanut butter everybody.” And she adds that manu- preferences for one of the most popu- with the ingredients found in a Snick- facturers want their products to stand lar confectionery categories. FT ers bar: , caramel, , and out from others, but they still need to milk chocolate. The bar debuted at be cognizant about what developments Karen Nachay, a Member of IFT, is Associate Editor of the NCA 2010 Sweets & Snacks Expo fit with the brand, whether it is whim- Food Technology magazine ([email protected]). and is available for retail sale starting December 2010. Caramel lovers can get their fix with REFERENCES the Mars Milky Way Simply Caramel choco- CDC and Packaged Facts. 2010. Why confec- late bar, sans the nougat found in a Milky tions & ? Executive overview. Center Way bar. Sometimes adding a twist to for Culinary Development, San Francisco, Calif. www.ccdsf.com. Packaged Facts, classic ingredients like caramel and tof- Rockville, Md. www.packagedfacts.com. fee is enough to differentiate a chocolate Heiss, C., Jahn, S., Taylor, M., Real, W.M., candy product and to combinations Angeli, F.S., Wong, M.L., Amabil, N., Prasad, like honey-caramel, ginger-caramel, M., Rassaf, T., Ottaviani, J.I., Mihardja, S., Keen, C.L., Springer, M.L., Boyle, A., orange-caramel, and others. Caramel Grossman, W., Glantz, S.A., Schroeter, H., and another popular flavor, cof- and Yeghiazarians, Y. 2010. Improvement of ® endothelial function with dietary flavanols is fee, are featured in the company’s associated with mobilization of circulating Java Chocolate Bars. The company angiogenic cells in patients with coronary in April 2011 will release its limited- artery disease. J. Am. Coll. Cardiol. 56: edition TWIX Cookie Bars, which 218-224. Popping candy and other ingredients that add texture NCA. 2009a. 2009 Trends forecast: the future blend the flavor of coconut into caramel. give distinction to upscale chocolate confections. of chocolate. National Confectioners Mars has six of the top 15 chocolate Photo courtesy of Chuao Chocolatier Association, Washington, D.C. www.candy- brands, so the company concentrates usa.com. much of its effort on building these sical and playful or more sophisticated. NCA. 2009b. 2009 Trends forecast: executive summary. brands with new products formulated The trick is finding ways of adding fla- NCA. 2010. Trade show highlights the treats with a new flavor (coconut inTWIX vor and texture with ingredients—be and trends that will impact the confectionery Cookie Bars) or a new texture (pretzels they milk chocolate with caramel or and snacks industry today and tomorrow, press in M&M’s Pretzel Chocolate Candies). Since dark chocolate with spicy chili pep- release, May 25. Packaged Facts. 2010. Chocolate in the U.S. consumers trust the brands, they are per—that relate to the consumers September 2010. Packaged Facts, Rockville, more willing to try new flavor variations for each brand. Md. www.packagedfacts.com. or limited editions, states Nodzak. This is The overall chocolate confec- Reid, K., Sullivan, T., Fakler, P., Frank, O.R., important, as the confectionery category tions market is healthy, even through and Stocks, N.P. 2010. Does chocolate reduce ? A meta-analysis. BMC Med. 8: in general is a brand-strong category, challenging economic conditions. 39. doi: 10.1186/1741-7015-8-39. emphasizes Ellek. Consumers love chocolate, and they Sorond, F.A., Lipsitz, L.A., Hollenberg, N.K., While chocolate lovers with an continue to purchase it. In addition and Fisher, N.D. Cerebral blood flow response adventurous palate can indulge in to milk chocolate bars sold in mass to flavanol-rich cocoa in healthy elderly humans. 2008. Neuropsychiatric Dis. Treat. 4: chocolate confections formulated with supermarkets, there are line exten- 433-440. an array of interesting ingredients, those sions and limited editions of some pg 30 12.10 • www.ift.org