The Works Lake District Dry-Tooling Venue Updated – 03/01/2014

The Works Lake District Dry-tooling Venue Updated – 03/01/2014

First Blood M9+ [photo Steve Ashworth]

With a growing interest in Dry-tooling to train for winter climbing and as a sport in its own right great venues have been getting developed like White Goods in Wales and the original UK venue at Newtyle Quarry in Scotland. Following the 'Winter Ethics' debate there was a feeling amongst many that a Lakeland venue would be a good thing. This feeling may not be shared by all but hopefully having a dedicated venue confined to a couple of disused quarries with no existing rock climbs established will help to control dry-tooling and avoid people using crags with established rock routes to tool on. As well as controlling dry-tooling damage, the other aim was to offer a good quality venue with a good range of routes for climbers to train on for the winter and get a feeling for what dry-tooling is all about.

So currently there are 25 routes bolted for leading, all have been led bar 1 project. The grades range from about M4 to M13. The routes are spread over 2 quarries that are close to each other, one we have called the Works, and the other is called Bakestone Quarry. The bolted walls range from slabs to full roofs. The rock is generally very good, however care should be taken while the routes are getting climbed in and if 'bottom roping' it will be best to use the top anchors in place as the upper lips of the quarries often contain loose rocks and soil. The top anchors are all ring bolts so a sling and screw-gate can be useful before lowering off.

A full detail of the venue and routes is included in the new Lake District winter climbing guidebook. I have included some info written up by Brian below to direct people to the venue and give an idea of the routes on offer.

The descriptions are headed with the route name, length, grade, first ascent date, and finally the number of bolts. The type of bolt is indicated with either a P or E.

P = Glued in 'P' bolt E = Expansion bolt with hanger and nut

The Works (NY 313 017) This scenic hole offers a range of routes from a slightly over hanging wall to a full cave roof. This quarry is close to a larger one where material is still periodically excavated though no blasting is now undertaken. Please do not enter the larger quarry or antagonize relations with the quarry owners. On entering Hodge Close car park there is a track behind a locked gate on the left. A track leads from the gate down to a large working quarry. The track bends rightwards and descends. On the left there is a quarried hole on the left. The quarry is accessed using a cable attached to a tree. The Industrial Sector is down on the left and the right-hand cave at the back has 8 routes going through the roof, there is left-hand cave has 1 route in, and there are 3 more on the walls to the right, 1 being above the tunnel entrance down and right as you descend the fixed line entering the quarry. There are also 3 routes on the big slab between the 2 big caves at the back of the quarry.

Industrial Sector The slightly over hanging wall on the left as you descend into the quarry. The routes are listed from left to right and there is a warm up traverse below the long roof.

Time and a Half 9m M5 (2012) 5E Double Time 9m M5 (2012) 4P Overtime 9m M6 (2012) 4P Stein Pull 9m M6 (2012) 5P Grand Design 9m M6+ (2012) 4P

The upper part of 'Time and a Half' [photo - Andy Rutherford]

Lots of people enjoying the popular 'Industrial Sector' wall [photo - Paddy Cave]

The back of this quarry has 2 large caves, the right-hand cave has 8 routes, and this cave stays dry in the rain. The left-hand has 1 also.

Right Cave (First Blood Cave)

Yellow - Bloodline M10 Blue - Let there be Light M10+ Green - Blood Donor M9+ Red - First Blood M9+ Purple - Quick Release M10+ White - Guardian of the Underworld M12 Orange - Transfusion M8

First Blood 20m M9 (2012) 3P+7E This route links a series of roofs in a rightwards traverse to a lower-off on the lip out to the right.

Climbing 'First Blood' M9+ [photo - Steve Ashworth]

Blood Donor M9+ Starts up 'First Blood' and then breaks left across the steep roof to the lower off of 'Bloodline'.

Transfusion M8 Climbs the arete that forms the right hand side of the cave entrance. After a blind move to gain the arete and crack line climb the arete on torques and enhanced edges. At about 2/3 height move leftwards out of the crack onto a series of natural edges with a thin move giving access to the good upper crack/flake and belay. This route is different to many of the Works routes in that it uses many natural placements whilst at the same time being deceptively steep. There is also a bolt in place for the belayer on the belay ledge at the foot of the route.

Guardian of the Underworld M12 Climbs out of the back of the cave on the right. Climb the rail with some tricky moves to gain the main roof. Climb across the big roof with a fight towards the belay of First Blood! Great effort from Andy Turner in adding this route to the cave.

Let there be Light M10+ This route was added be Simon Chevis and gives a long sustained route across the length of the front main cave. The route starts up 'Bloodline' and about 2/3 of the way up, once into the upper groove, you break right across a steep wall. You cross the route 'Blood Donor' and continue with some moves down to link into the final section of 'First Blood' and to the lower off. Another great route and a good effort from Simon to get bolted and climbed.

Quick Release M10+ This starts up the slab left of GOTU. The slab gives access to the horizontal roof. The roof is climbed following a faint crack-line with long moves and stein pulls. The route joins 'First Blood' for its last 2 draws and belay.

Project - Andy Turner - M? The line of draws coming from the depths of the 'First Blood' cave and joining 'Guardian of the Underworld'.

Si Frost coming close to the 2nd ascent of 'Transfusion' [photo - Andy Rutherford]

Working 'Bloodline' M10 [photo - Andy Rutherford]

'The Peoples Slab' – between the 2 big caves at the back of the quarry

Left Route M4 Climbs the left hand side of the slab to a lower-off.

Middle Route M4 Climbs the center of the slab to the right-hand lower-off.

Right Route M4 Climbs the right-hand side of the slab to the same lower-off as for the previous route.

The left-hand Cave

Lakes Ethics M9+ The first route to be added to the large cave to the left of the 'First Blood' cave. Bolted by Dave Garry and climbed by Pete Holder. The route is equipped with in- situ draws and climbs the right side of the arch in the bottom of the cave and then breaks through the first roof.

Just right of Transfusion and the right-hand Cave

Steve's Corner 15m M6 (2012) 7P Climb the slab to gain the corner and climb this to exit out left at the top. Some open torques can be used in the upper corner or a long move made to bypass them!

The right-hand side of the quarry as you enter

New Route M? A line of bolts has been added to the right of 'Steve's Corner' giving a good route following mainly natural features throughout to the lower-off on the upper slab.

Winters Coming M7+ A line of 5 bolts and a lower-off have been added by Pete Holder climbing the wall right of and above the tunnel entrance in the lower part of the quarry, down and right from the descent rope access.

Bakestone Quarry (NY 32015) This smaller quarry has a cave at the back with a hanging fang in its centre. On the left there is a hole with a flat topped roof, the left side of this has a smooth vertical wall. To approach this quarry take the path as for the previous quarry but leave the path for a small track to the right of the active quarry (stay clear of the crumbling quarry edge to left!) to a flat mossy area. Pass this to a higher terrace and then pass an old tunnel entrance, then traverse scree to 2 old quarry buildings. Go up the steps and the quarry is on the left.

It is also possible to access this quarry via a path from the last houses past on the road into Hodge Close. It is important if this is used to still park as for Hodge Close and walk back up the road as the parking at the houses is reserved for the residents.

The names of the routes in this quarry were inspired by a cricket bat found near the grassed gangway that is now like a cricket seam.

Bakestone Quarry, the 'Wicket'. 'Outfield' and ‘Powerdab’ start at the back of the dark cave on the left. The 'Fang' can be seen hanging down in the cave at the back. There are also routes on the slab up and left of the back cave and on the walls to the right of the back cave. [photo - Andy Rutherford]

The Wicket The grassy quarry path leads to the cave with the fang in its centre. There is a slabby corner to the right and a wall above the cave on its left. Routes are described right to left.

The route below is to the right of the cave up the slabby corner.

Right Slip 15m M5 (2012) 4P Climb through an overlap and gain the slabby corner, climb this with the lower-off being up and left of the final crack.

The route below starts in the cave.

The Fang 15m M8 (2012) 7P+1E Climb the fang feature and the short roof to access the hanging groove. Step right and gain the upper groove, follow this to the top.

Working the 'Fang' M8 [photo - Paddy Cave]

The next 2 routes are on the slabby wall left of and above the ‘Fang’ cave. (scramble up a short step to access)

Left Slip 10m M5 (2012) 4P The right-hand route, semi natural hooks.

Silly Mid On 10m M4 (2012) 4P The left-hand route, almost totally natural hooks.

On the left of The Wicket is a rubble filled hole with a long flat roof and a smooth left wall. A low level traverse has been manufactured along the base of the smooth left wall from the back of the hole to warm up on.

The routes below start in the back of the cave.

Outfield 20m M6 (2012) 7P Climb the shallow groove to the roof. Traverse leftwards below the roof to a mantle onto a sloping ledge. Step back right to a couple of final steep moves and a lower-off.

Powerdab M13 The line of bolts across the roof to the right of 'Outfield'. Bolted by Greg Boswell and Paddy Cave. This route was first climbed by Greg and then Andy Turner and has BIG powerful moves throughout! Its 20m long and at M13 is the hardest dry-tooling route in the UK to date along with 'Frankenstein' in Newtyle, Dunkeld...

Brian on the first ascent of 'Outfield' M6 [photo - Paddy Cave]

Andy Turner on the 2nd ascent of Powerdab M13, first climbed by Greg Boswell [photo - Andy Rutherford]

The route below climbs the arete to the left of the cave.

Outside Leg 12m M5 (2012) 4P (the final 2 are shared with Outfield) Climb the large flake and make a move onto the sloping ledge, now follow Outfield to the same lower off.

The Cumbria Bolt Fund has supplied many bolts for the Works and has been a source of advice relating to good bolting practice. The fund ensures quality bolts are supplied for all aspects of bolting in Cumbria. Should anyone be keen to donate to the fund then you can do this easily by using the link on the website at www.cumbriaboltfund.com

You can also join the Works Dry-tooling Venue Facebook Group for info, updates and lift sharing. https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheWorksDrytooling/

Enjoy!

'Bloodline' [photo - Tom Greenwood]