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Wikivoyage Turkmenistan March 2016 Contents

WikiVoyage March 2016 Contents

1 Turkmenistan 1 1.1 Regions ...... 1 1.2 Cities ...... 1 1.3 Other destinations ...... 2 1.3.1 Archaeological sites ...... 2 1.3.2 Medieval monuments ...... 2 1.3.3 Nature reserves ...... 3 1.3.4 Pilgrims’ shrines ...... 4 1.4 Understand ...... 5 1.4.1 People ...... 6 1.4.2 Terrain ...... 6 1.4.3 Holidays ...... 6 1.4.4 Climate ...... 7 1.4.5 Read ...... 7 1.5 Get in ...... 7 1.5.1 Vaccinations ...... 7 1.5.2 Visa ...... 7 1.5.3 Registration ...... 7 1.5.4 permits ...... 8 1.5.5 By plane ...... 8 1.5.6 By train ...... 8 1.5.7 By car ...... 8 1.5.8 By ...... 8 1.5.9 By boat ...... 9 1.6 Get around ...... 9 1.6.1 By plane ...... 9 1.6.2 By boat ...... 10 1.6.3 By car ...... 10 1.6.4 By train ...... 10 1.7 Talk ...... 10 1.8 See ...... 10 1.9 Do ...... 10

i ii CONTENTS

1.9.1 Suggested itineraries ...... 11 1.10 Buy ...... 11 1.10.1 Costs ...... 11 1.10.2 Currency ...... 11 1.10.3 Shopping ...... 11 1.10.4 Rugs ...... 11 1.11 Eat ...... 12 1.12 Drink ...... 12 1.13 Sleep ...... 12 1.14 Stay safe ...... 12 1.15 Stay healthy ...... 13 1.16 Respect ...... 13 1.17 Connect ...... 13

2 Ahal Province 14 2.1 Cities ...... 14 2.2 Other destinations ...... 14 2.3 Understand ...... 14 2.4 Get in ...... 14 2.5 Get around ...... 14 2.6 See ...... 14 2.7 Do ...... 14 2.8 Eat ...... 14 2.9 Drink ...... 14 2.10 Stay safe ...... 14 2.11 Go next ...... 14

3 Altin Depe 15 3.1 Understand ...... 15 3.2 Get in ...... 15 3.3 Get around ...... 15 3.4 See ...... 15 3.5 Do ...... 15 3.6 Buy ...... 15 3.7 Eat ...... 15 3.8 Drink ...... 15 3.9 Sleep ...... 15 3.10 Connect ...... 15 3.11 Go next ...... 15

4 Anau 16 4.1 Understand ...... 16 CONTENTS iii

4.2 Get in ...... 16 4.3 Get around ...... 16 4.4 See ...... 16 4.5 Do ...... 16 4.6 Buy ...... 17 4.7 Eat ...... 17 4.8 Drink ...... 17 4.9 Sleep ...... 17 4.10 Connect ...... 17 4.11 Go next ...... 17

5 18 5.1 Understand ...... 18 5.2 Get in ...... 18 5.2.1 By plane ...... 18 5.2.2 By rail ...... 19 5.2.3 By car ...... 19 5.3 Get around ...... 19 5.4 See ...... 20 5.4.1 Museums ...... 20 5.4.2 Monuments ...... 20 5.4.3 Other sites ...... 20 5.5 Do ...... 20 5.5.1 Theatres ...... 20 5.6 Buy ...... 21 5.7 Eat ...... 21 5.8 Drink ...... 21 5.9 Sleep ...... 21 5.10 Cope ...... 21 5.10.1 Internet ...... 21 5.10.2 Airlines ...... 22 5.10.3 Emergencies ...... 22 5.10.4 Embassies and Consulates ...... 22 5.10.5 Medical services ...... 23 5.10.6 Registration ...... 23 5.11 Go next ...... 23 5.11.1 Nearby ...... 23 5.11.2 Farther Afield ...... 23

6 Geok-tepe 24 6.1 Understand ...... 24 6.2 Get in ...... 24 iv CONTENTS

6.3 Get around ...... 24 6.4 See ...... 24 6.5 Do ...... 24 6.6 Buy ...... 24 6.7 Eat ...... 24 6.8 Drink ...... 24 6.9 Sleep ...... 24 6.10 Connect ...... 24 6.11 Go next ...... 24

7 25 7.1 Understand ...... 25 7.2 Get in ...... 25 7.3 Get around ...... 25 7.4 See ...... 25 7.5 Do ...... 25 7.6 Buy ...... 25 7.7 Eat ...... 25 7.8 Drink ...... 25 7.9 Sleep ...... 25 7.10 Connect ...... 25 7.11 Go next ...... 25

8 Karakum 26 8.1 Villages ...... 26 8.2 Other destinations ...... 26 8.3 Understand ...... 26 8.4 Talk ...... 27 8.5 Get in ...... 27 8.6 Get around ...... 27 8.7 See and Do ...... 27 8.8 Sleep ...... 27 8.9 Eat ...... 27 8.10 Drink ...... 28 8.11 Stay safe ...... 28 8.12 Go next ...... 28

9 Nissa 29 9.1 Understand ...... 29 9.2 Get in ...... 29 9.3 Get around ...... 29 9.4 See ...... 29 CONTENTS v

9.5 Do ...... 30 9.6 Buy ...... 30 9.7 Eat ...... 30 9.8 Drink ...... 30 9.9 Sleep ...... 30 9.10 Connect ...... 30 9.11 Go next ...... 30

10 Balkan Province 31 10.1 Cities ...... 31 10.2 Other destinations ...... 31 10.3 Understand ...... 31 10.4 Get in ...... 31 10.5 Get around ...... 31 10.6 See ...... 31 10.7 Do ...... 31 10.8 Eat ...... 31 10.9 Drink ...... 31 10.10Stay safe ...... 31 10.11Go next ...... 31

11 32 11.1 Understand ...... 32 11.2 Get in ...... 32 11.2.1 By plane ...... 32 11.2.2 By train ...... 32 11.2.3 By bus ...... 32 11.3 Get around ...... 32 11.4 See ...... 32 11.5 Do ...... 32 11.6 Buy ...... 32 11.7 Eat ...... 32 11.8 Drink ...... 32 11.9 Sleep ...... 33 11.10Connect ...... 33 11.11Go next ...... 33 11.11.1 By plane ...... 33 11.11.2 By train ...... 33 11.11.3 By bus ...... 33

12 Turkmenbashi 34 12.1 Understand ...... 34 vi CONTENTS

12.2 Get in ...... 34 12.2.1 By plane ...... 34 12.2.2 By train ...... 34 12.2.3 By car ...... 34 12.2.4 By bus ...... 34 12.2.5 By boat ...... 34 12.3 Get around ...... 34 12.4 See ...... 35 12.5 Do ...... 35 12.6 Buy ...... 35 12.7 Eat ...... 35 12.7.1 Budget ...... 35 12.7.2 Mid-range ...... 35 12.7.3 Splurge ...... 35 12.8 Drink ...... 35 12.9 Sleep ...... 35 12.9.1 Budget ...... 35 12.9.2 Mid-range ...... 35 12.9.3 Splurge ...... 35 12.10Connect ...... 35 12.11Stay safe ...... 35 12.12Cope ...... 35 12.13Go next ...... 35 12.13.1 By plane ...... 35 12.13.2 By train ...... 35 12.13.3 By car ...... 35 12.13.4 By bus ...... 36 12.13.5 By boat ...... 36

13 Dashoguz Province 37 13.1 Cities ...... 37 13.2 Other destinations ...... 37 13.3 Understand ...... 37 13.4 Talk ...... 37 13.5 Get in ...... 37 13.6 Get around ...... 37 13.7 See ...... 37 13.7.1 Itineraries ...... 37 13.8 Do ...... 37 13.9 Eat ...... 37 13.10Drink ...... 37 13.11Stay safe ...... 37 CONTENTS vii

13.12Go next ...... 37

14 Daşoguz 38 14.1 Understand ...... 38 14.2 Get in ...... 38 14.2.1 By plane ...... 38 14.2.2 By bus ...... 38 14.2.3 By train ...... 38 14.2.4 By car ...... 38 14.3 Get around ...... 38 14.4 See ...... 38 14.5 Do ...... 38 14.6 Buy ...... 38 14.7 Eat ...... 38 14.8 Drink ...... 38 14.9 Sleep ...... 38 14.10Connect ...... 39 14.11Go next ...... 39 14.11.1 By plane ...... 39 14.11.2 By bus ...... 39 14.11.3 By train ...... 39 14.11.4 By car ...... 39

15 Konye Urgench 40 15.1 Understand ...... 40 15.2 Get in ...... 40 15.2.1 By plane ...... 40 15.2.2 By bus or taxi ...... 40 15.2.3 By car ...... 40 15.3 Get around ...... 40 15.4 See ...... 41 15.5 Do ...... 41 15.6 Buy ...... 41 15.7 Eat ...... 41 15.8 Drink ...... 42 15.9 Sleep ...... 42 15.10Connect ...... 42 15.11Go next ...... 42 15.11.1 By plane ...... 42 15.11.2 By bus or taxi ...... 42

16 Lebap Province 43 viii CONTENTS

16.1 Cities ...... 43 16.2 Other destinations ...... 43 16.3 Understand ...... 43 16.4 Talk ...... 43 16.5 Get in ...... 43 16.6 Get around ...... 43 16.7 See ...... 43 16.7.1 Itineraries ...... 43 16.8 Do ...... 43 16.9 Eat ...... 43 16.10Drink ...... 43 16.11Stay safe ...... 43 16.12Go next ...... 43

17 Kugitang Nature Reserve 44 17.1 Understand ...... 44 17.1.1 History ...... 44 17.1.2 Landscape ...... 44 17.1.3 Flora and fauna ...... 44 17.1.4 Climate ...... 44 17.2 Get in ...... 44 17.3 Fees/Permits ...... 44 17.4 Get around ...... 45 17.5 See ...... 45 17.6 Do ...... 45 17.7 Buy ...... 45 17.8 Eat ...... 45 17.9 Drink ...... 45 17.10Sleep ...... 45 17.10.1 Lodging ...... 45 17.10.2 Camping ...... 45 17.10.3 Backcountry ...... 45 17.11Stay safe ...... 45 17.12Go next ...... 45

18 Türkmenabat 46 18.1 Understand ...... 46 18.2 Get in ...... 46 18.2.1 By plane ...... 46 18.2.2 By rail ...... 46 18.2.3 By bus or taxi ...... 46 18.2.4 From ...... 46 CONTENTS ix

18.2.5 Within Turkmenistan ...... 46 18.3 Get around ...... 46 18.4 See ...... 47 18.5 Do ...... 47 18.6 Buy ...... 47 18.7 Eat ...... 47 18.8 Drink ...... 47 18.9 Sleep ...... 47 18.10Connect ...... 47 18.11Go next ...... 47 18.11.1 By plane ...... 47 18.11.2 By rail ...... 47 18.11.3 By bus or taxi ...... 47

19 Mary Province 48 19.1 Cities ...... 48 19.2 Other destinations ...... 48 19.3 Understand ...... 48 19.4 Talk ...... 48 19.5 Get in ...... 48 19.6 Get around ...... 48 19.7 See ...... 48 19.7.1 Itineraries ...... 48 19.8 Do ...... 48 19.9 Eat ...... 48 19.10Drink ...... 48 19.11Stay safe ...... 48 19.12Go next ...... 48

20 49 20.1 Understand ...... 49 20.2 Get in ...... 49 20.3 Get around ...... 49 20.4 See ...... 49 20.5 Do ...... 49 20.6 Buy ...... 49 20.7 Eat ...... 49 20.8 Drink ...... 49 20.9 Sleep ...... 49 20.10Connect ...... 49 20.11Go next ...... 50 x CONTENTS

21 Mary 51 21.1 Understand ...... 51 21.2 Get in ...... 51 21.2.1 By plane ...... 51 21.2.2 By rail ...... 51 21.2.3 By bus ...... 51 21.2.4 By car ...... 51 21.3 Get around ...... 51 21.4 See ...... 51 21.5 Do ...... 51 21.6 Buy ...... 51 21.7 Eat ...... 51 21.8 Drink ...... 51 21.9 Sleep ...... 51 21.10Connect ...... 52 21.11Go next ...... 52 21.11.1 By plane ...... 52 21.11.2 By rail ...... 52 21.11.3 By bus ...... 52 21.11.4 By Car ...... 52

22 53 22.1 Understand ...... 53 22.2 Get in ...... 53 22.2.1 By plane ...... 53 22.2.2 By rail ...... 53 22.2.3 By bus ...... 53 22.2.4 By car ...... 53 22.3 Get around ...... 53 22.4 See ...... 53 22.5 Do ...... 55 22.6 Buy ...... 55 22.7 Eat ...... 55 22.8 Drink ...... 55 22.9 Sleep ...... 55 22.10Go next ...... 55 22.11Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses ...... 56 22.11.1 Text ...... 56 22.11.2 Images ...... 57 22.11.3 Content license ...... 58 Chapter 1

Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan is a country in with a pop- ulation of about 5 million, and an area around half a million km2, or almost the size of Spain. Neighbour- ing countries are Iran and to the South, and Uzbekistan and to the North. It has a coast on the , but is otherwise landlocked. Nearly 80% of the country is considered part of the . Turkmenistan is one of just two Stalinist countries in ex- istence (the other being North Korea) and the government is in firm control of nearly everything, although, surpris- ingly, is welcomed as long as you don't discuss politics or the omnipresent police or military. The cult of personality the previous president created for himself Turkmenistan regions - Color-coded map is truly amazing and reminders of the Turkmenbashi’s legacy are everywhere. The traditional life of the Turkmen is that of nomadic shepherds, though some have been settled in towns for centuries. The country is known for its fine (one is even featured in its flag) and horses. It is a fairly poor country, that has been isolated from the world. Other than that, billions have been spent on modernization in Ashgabat, Turkmenbashi, and many other cities in post Soviet times. And also, the country has extensive oil and gas reserves being developed, with recently opened pipelines to , Iran, and soon Azerbaijan. Turk- menistan is also the second wealthiest country in Central Asia. Ashgabat Airport

• Balkanabat (formerly Nebit-Dag) (2004: 140,000 1.1 Regions inhabitants)

• Daşoguz (formerly Tashauz) (2004: 210,000 inhab- While the provinces are a helpful way to break down large itants) Turkmenistan into regional travel areas, bear in mind that there is one geographical region present throughout them • Mary (2004: 160.000 inhabitants) all, dominating the country—the brutal desert wasteland that is the Karakum. • Türkmenabat (2004: 256,000 inhabitants)

• Turkmenbashi (formerly Krasnovodsk) - a Caspian port (2004: 86,000 inhabitants) 1.2 Cities Historically, most of these towns were oases along the • Ashgabat, the capital (2004: 727,200 inhabitants) .

1 2 CHAPTER 1. TURKMENISTAN

Artificial river, Turkumenistan Darvaza flaming crater

vaza, an oil rig accidentally struck a large pocket of natural gas in 1971. The rig collapsed into the cav- ern, resulting in a large crater filled with fire. It was decided to let the fire burn rather than let the poi- sonous gas escape into the nearby town. The fire burns to this day and it is popular as being easily mistakable for the gates of Hell.

• Pay a visit to Kow Ata underground sulphur lake, found in the mountains an hour or so outside Ashga- bat. It is possible to swim in the year-round warm, mineral rich, and medicinal waters. Expect a walk down increasingly slippery steps, and a corrugated shack to change in - unless you're handy with your Ashgabat Zoo in Turkmenistan towel. Kow Ata means Father of the Lakes. The cave is more than 200 metres long, 20 metres high and at some point more than 50 metres wide. The water has a constant temperature of 33 to 37 degrees Cel- sius.

1.3.1 Archaeological sites

• Altin Depe

• Anau (Anew)

• Gonur Depe • Public in Turkmenistan Jeitun, Mesolithic settlement on a sand dune in the Kara Kum desert, 30 km north of Ashgabat 1.3 Other destinations • Merv with Erk Kala, Giaur Kala, Kyz Kala and Sul- tan Kala

• Avaza - a multi-billion dollar construction project • Namazga Depe near Turkmenbashi aimed at creating a “national touristic zone” of over 60 world-class , shop- • Nissa, one of the most important cities of the ping, and a new international airport. The govern- , 19 km west of Ashgabat ment likens the project to Dubai, but there is little foreign investment thus far. 1.3.2 Medieval monuments • Darvaza — Probably Turkmenistan’s single most famous site, at this spot near the former town of Dar- • Abiverd, medieval city (10th to 18th cent.) 1.3. OTHER DESTINATIONS 3

• Parau, medieval settlement, Parau-bibi and Parau- ata (12th cent.)

• Sarakhs, ancient city with the Mausoleum of Abul- Fazi (“Sarakhs-baba” and Yarti-Gummez

• Seyitdzhemaledin Mosque, masterpiece of Mus- lim architecture (15th cent.)

• Shakhsenem, medieval settlement, mosque

• Talkhatan-baba, 30 km west of Mary, mausoleum (12th cent.)

• Tasharvat, 38 km West of Balkanabat, big me- The harsh landscape of the Karakum Desert dieval fortress

• Abu Said Mithkene Mausoleum (11th to 15th 1.3.3 Nature reserves cent.)

• Astana-baba, 15 km from Mount Atamurat, coun- try estate of Omar-Kali with mausoleum and mosque

• Dayakhaty, near Turkmenabad, caravan serai (11th cent.)

• Darganata, medieval city, mausoleum (11th to 15th cent.)

• Dekhistan, historical area in Western Turkestan, big Mashat cemetery, Shir Kabir Mausoleum (10th cent), ruins of Missirian city (10th to 15th cent.)

• Devkesengala, North West of Konye Urgench, fortress, mausoleums, Camels grazing in front of Great Kyz Kala, Merv

• Ekedeshik, near , near the Afghanistan border, about 245 km South of Mary, cave settle- • Köpet Dag Nature Reserve in the mountains near ment with more than 40 rooms, dating back to the Ashgabat Early Middle Ages, eventually a Buddhist monastery • Syunt Hasarday Nature Reserve in the mountains • Geok-tepe, place of a bloody battle between Turk- south of the Ashgabat - Turkmenbashi road, men and Russians in 1881, • Nature Reserve on the Caspian Sea near • Imukshir, near Tara, ancient city, fortifications the border to Iran

• Konye Urgench, remains of the capital of • Krasnovodsk Nature Reserve on the Caspian Sea Horezmshah with magnificent architectural south of Turkmenbashi, monuments, • Gaplangyr Nature Reserve in the Karakum • Mane Baba Mausoleum, about 40 km south of Desert. in the Khaka region. The mausoleum was • Quzilqum Nature Reserve along the Amur Darja built in the 11th and 12th cenmturies over the grave on the border to Uzbekistan, of the famous Sufi teacher and philosopher Abu Said Maneyi (968-1049). The legend tells that Abu Said • Amur Darja Nature Reserve along the Amur met Abu Ali Ibn Sina (Avicenna) for a conversation Darja on the border to Uzbekistan, north of that lasted three days. Afer this conversation Abi Turkmenabat. Said said: 'Ibn Sina knows everything that I see' and Ibn Sina answered: 'Abu Said sees everything that I • Repetek Nature Reserve in the desert on the road know'. between Mary and Turkmenabat, 4 CHAPTER 1. TURKMENISTAN

• Kugitang Nature Reserve in the mountains in • Nedjmeddin Kubra Mausoleum at Konye Ur- the south east of the country on the border to gench Uzbekistan. • Parau Bibi Shrine, about halfway between Ashgabat and Balkanabat, about 20 km north west You will need a special permit in order to visit a nature of Gyzylarbat and about 8 km south of the main reserve, and it will be necessary to apply for it through a road, in the village of Paraw. The shrine is set travel agent well in advance. 100 meters up a rocky mountainside overlooking the village and the steppe. It consists of a white 1.3.4 Pilgrims’ shrines mausoleum-like structure, a and a roofed platform where the pilgrims congregate and Shrine pilgrimage (ziyarat) and its underlying beliefs have have meals. According to the legend Paraw Bibi played an important role in islamization of Central Asia was a beautiful and virtuous maiden. A jealous as well as in creating and sustaining communal identity up woman wanted to hand over Paraw Bibi to invaders to the present day. Recent research suggests that Musilm in exchange for the promise not to attack the village. “holy men” (Sufi shaykhs) were key players in the conver- Paraw Bibi cursed the woman and let her turn into sion to Islam due to their knowledge of Inner Asian pre- black stone. When the enemy attacked, Paraw Bibi Islamic religious traditions and their ability to translate ordered the mountain to split into two parts so that the meaning of Islam to the local population. The promi- she was able to enter it and to preserve her purity nent position of ancestor worship in Turkmen traditions is and virtue. The locals built a shrine to Paraw Bibi, shown by the fact that the progenitor of a tribe or commu- as they believed that because of her bravery and nity is often ascribed to “islamizers” among the Turkmen. refusal to submit she was a true hero blessed by The burial sites of these Muslim founding fathers became the holy breath of the prophets. It is reported that a focus of veneration and were accompanied by what is at least at the end of the Soviet era pilgrims from called “Muslim shamanism": ancestral spirits were iden- all over western Turkmenistan visited the shrine, tified with the companions of the “Saint-progenitor”. The seeking fertility and a cure from insanity. communities also accepted saints with outstanding spiri- • Shibly Baba tual, intellectual or physical powers. Thus the burial sites of Islamic saints, local rulers, learned scholars, warriors or pre-Islamic figures have become shrines. Turkmen tradition also recognizes six non-Turkmen öwlat groups, which trace their lineage to the first caliphs of Islam, e.g. the progenitor of the öwlat group Ata is Gözli Ata who in the 14th cent. came from Turkestan, a center of Sufi teaching, in order to carry on his teachings in Western Turkmenistan. The legends describe him as an extremely powerful saint, outdoing other saints in miracle perfor- mances and winning large numbers of followers.

• Ak Ishan

• Gözli Ata, about 160 km north of Balkanabat. Gözli Ata (“Father Eye”) was a famous Sufi teacher of the 12th cent. It is told that he was able to recognize Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum at Merv the good and the evil in the soul of all men. He was killed by the Mongols and buried here, next to his wife Bibi Aysulu. • Khoja Yusup Baba (Hemedani) is a large com- • Ibrahim Sultan plex in southeastern Turkmenistan near Bairam Ali, on the territory of the ancient state of Merv. Khoja • Ismamut Ata Yusuf Hamadani is a well known figure in Islamis history. He is considered as the first in a line of Sufi • Kyrk Giz, in a spectacular caynon in the Kugitang masters from which the lineages of the most impor- Nature Reserve tant Sufi orders Naqshbandi and Yasavi are derived, and is described as an exemplary Muslim, pious and • Kyrk Molla at Konye Urgench unpretentious, devoted to Islamic scholarship and • Malik Baba deeply inspired by his work to promote Islam. He died in 1140 and his body was interred at Merv, pre- • Mohammed Ibn Zaid Mausoleum sumably at the site carrying his name. In the Soviet 1.4. UNDERSTAND 5

era the Moseque of Khoja Yusup Baba was declared chamber proper. Tomb and chamber are decorated an official architectural monument and one of the with votive offerings and objects connected with four official mosques in entire Turkmenistan. It is Khoja Alem Baba. Sites as Khoja Alem Baba are popular belief that two pilgrimages to Khoja Yusup very common in Turkmenistan. Apparently Turk- Baba equal one to Mecca. The pilgrims circle the men tradition stipulated that each community has an tomb from right to left, surrounding the tomb three "öwlüya” and by this way has access to the protec- times. Most people repeatedly touch the wall of the tion provided. tomb with both hand and bring their hands to the face. Some even kiss the wall. After they had com- pleted the circling they sit together while the care- 1.4 Understand taker recites a blessing. When the blessing os fin- ished they give the caretaker offerings of money. In the complex is a well said to contain holy water. Women tie small strips of cloth on the branches of the bushes or trees that line the path leading to the well. These strips signify prayers or wishes to the saint. For the same reason pilgrims set up two old bricks in the form of an upside-sown “V”. Miniature imitation cradles made from sticks and cloth are set up by women hoping for the saint’s aid in order to become fertile.

• Baba Gambar has several shrines. The best known is in southeastern Turkmenistan, about 120 km south of Mary: It is often considered as an exam- ple how a pre-Islamic deity was transformed into an Islamic saint. According to Islamic legend Ganbar was the stableman of Ali and caretaker of his horse Duldul. In Turkmen legends Ganbar is considered as the patron of musicians and creator of the first dutar, the traditional two-string music instrument. According to the legend Ali remarked that Duldul was ill and underfed. When he questionned Gam- bar, Gambar did not give an answer. Then, Ali saw Gambar playing the dutar to Duldul. When Ali con- fronted Gambar, Gambar commanded the earth to swallow him and fled underground to Mecca, say- ing that the two will meet again on judgment day. Statue of Turkmenistan’s “former all-powerful President for Life” . The site consists of the shrine-mausoleum, a “chile agach” and a tree the leaves of which have the shape of dutar tuning pegs. It is claimed that the tree grew North Korea may get all the press, but even Kim Il-sung’s from Gambar’s original dutar and that its roots lead cult of personality fades when compared to the surreal to the underground passage through which Gambar totalitarian state set up by Turkmenistan’s former all- fled. powerful President for Life Saparmurat Niyazov. He adopted the title Turkmenbashi (“Father of All Turk- • Hazret(i) Ali is located about 12 km southwest of men”), named the city of Turkmenbashi (formerly Kras- Ashgabat, near the village of Bagir and the archae- novodsk) after himself, and built a 15m tall golden statue ological site of Nisa. The small mosque, called “na- that rotates to face the sun in the capital Ashgabat. The mazga” (hall of prayer), is considered as a place month of January was renamed Turkmenbashi after him- where Ali prayed when he was promoting Islam. Im- self, while the month of April and the word “bread” be- pressions in the rocks are said to have com from Ali’s came Gurbansoltan Eje, the name of Niyazov’s mother. hands and from the hooves of his horse Duldul. Decrees emanating from Niyazov’s palace have banned, among other things, lip synching, long hair, video games • Khoja Alem Baba is located near the town of Kaka, and golden tooth caps. Through it all, Saparmu- about 130 km south east of Ashgabat. It is an ex- rat Turkmenbashi the Great (his official title) pretended cellent example of a small, local shrine, serving one to remain modest, once remarking that “I'm personally specific village only due to "öwlat” (clan lineage). against seeing my pictures and statues in the streets - but The tomb is housed in a clay mausoleum with two it’s what the people want”. Niyazov’s government also chambers, an entrance or sitting area and the tomb spent billions in renovating the country, shut down li- 6 CHAPTER 1. TURKMENISTAN

braries and hospitals, and even wrote the Ruhnama, a 1.4.2 Terrain spiritual book to improve the Turkmen people. Since Niyazov’s abrupt if unlamented death in De- cember 2006, his successor Gurbanguly Berdimuhame- dov has slowly peeled back the worst excesses of the Turkmenbashi. The Ruhnama has lost its popularity, Berdimuhamedov has continued in the process restor- ing pensions and old names, while cementing on his own slightly more subdued cult of personality. One thing of importance to any visitors who smoke cigarettes or cigars: it is forbidden to smoke 'in a pub- lic place'. Generally, this means 'outside'. Smoking at any of the bazaars is a definite no-no, as there were two major bazaar fires in 2006-2007. While it bothers non- smokers, those who enjoy tobacco products can enjoy them inside most , cafes, and nightclubs. A good rule of thumb - if you don't see anyone else smok- The Kopetdag Mountains rising above the Ahal Plain ing, you shouldn't. Recently however, the government has also banned the sale of all tobacco in the country. Turkmenistan is largely covered by desert, with intensive agriculture located in irrigated oases. One-half of its ir- rigated land is planted with cotton, making it the world’s tenth largest producer. About 80% of Turkmenistan’s surface is covered by the 1.4.1 People biggest desert in Central Asia, the Karakum (Black Sand), which forms together with the Kyzylkum (Red Sand) in Uzbekistan the fourth biggest desert in the world. The The people of Turkmenistan are predominantly Turk- Karakum covers about 350,000km². men, also spelled Turkoman, in both ethnicity and lan- guage. Turkmenistan traditionally was home to sizeable The Kopet Dagi Mountains (Many Mountains) in South- Russian and German populations, but they largely emi- ern Turkmenistan form the border to Iran. In the grated to their mother countries following the break up Kugitang Mountains in North East Turkmenistan is the of the Soviet Union. According to the 1995 census 77 highest mountain of the country, the Airbaba (3,117 m). percent of the population are Turkmen, 9 percent Uzbek The lowest point of the country is the Akdzhak depres- and 7 percent Russian. sion, 80 m below sea level. According to the Ruhmana, the originated The country measures about 1,100 km from West to East from Oguz Han and all Oguz people descend from Oguz and about 650 km from North to South. Han’s 24 grandsons. The original homeland of the Oguz tribes was the Ural-Altay region of Central Asia. The Orhun inscriptions (6th cent.) mentions the “six Oghuz 1.4.3 Holidays tribal union”, referring to the unification of the six Tur- • 1 Jan: New Year kic tribes. This was the first written reference to Oghuz, dated to the period of the Göktürk Empire. The Book • 12 Jan: Remembrance Day (Battle of Geok Depe) of Dede Korkut, the historical epic of the Oghuz Turks, was written in the 9th and 10th cent. They migrated • Feb 19: National Flag Day (Birthday of Saparmurat westwards in the area of the Aral Sea and the Syr Darya Niyazov) Basin in the 10th cent. A clan of the Oghuz, the Seljuks • Mar 8: Women’s Day took over Islam, entered Persia in the 11th cent. and founded the Great . The name Oghuz is • March 21–22: Nowruz (Navrouz: Spring festival) derived from the word 'ok', meaning 'arrow' or 'tribe' and an archer shooting an arrow was shown on the flag of the Seljuk Empire. The term Oghuz was gradually sup- • First Sunday in April: Drop of Water is a Grain of planted by the Turks themselves by Türkmen or Turco- Gold Day man. This process was completed in the 13th cent. • The main tribes of the Turkmen are the Tekke (around Apr 27: Ahalteke Horse Day the oases of Ahal, Tejen and Merv), the (along • May 9: Victory Day the ), the Yomud (in the and Khorzem Oasis) and the Goklen in the Southwest. • May 18: Day of Revival and Unity 1.5. GET IN 7

1.5 Get in

Most all nationalities need a visa to enter Turkmenistan. For independent travel, a short transit visa can be ob- tained, but a full visa may be difficult. Most border guards are young conscripts and a small bribe can ease your entry at the border and roadblocks. Arranging a tour will make things much easier, as the company can help in getting the Letter of Invitation and visa. Bear in mind that you might well have to be met by a guide, regardless of how you enter Turkmenistan. This can be particularly important, especially if your inward Ertugrul Gazi Mosque, Ashgabat journey is delayed as is possible when entering across the Caspian Sea by boat.

• May 19: of Poetry of When you enter Turkmenistan your bags usually will be searched with an X-ray machine. You will have to fill a • Last Sunday in May: Turkmenhaly bairamy - green Entry Travel Pass, an immigration card and a cus- Day toms declaration. List all your valuables that you bring with you in the customs declaration, make sure that it is • Second Sunday in August: Melon Festival stamped and keep a copy with you. You will have to show it again when you leave the country. • Oct 6: Remembrance Day (to remember the earth- quake of 1948) 1.5.1 Vaccinations • 27 and 28 Oct : Independence Day The World Health Organization recommends vaccina- • First Saturday in Nov: Health Day tions against diphtheria, hepatitis A and B, measles, mumps, polio, rubella, tetanus, typhoid and chickenpox • 17 Nov: Student Youth Day (varicella). In addition, vaccinations against meningitis, rabies and tuberculosis are recommended for long term • Last Sunday in Nov: Harvest Festival travellers.

• 30 Nov: Bread Day 1.5.2 Visa • First Sunday in Dec: Good Neighbourliness Day It is strongly recommended that you apply for a Turk- • 12 Dec: Neutrality Day menistan visa before travelling to Turkmenistan. It is re- ported that travellers applying for visa at Ashgabat airport have been detained in the transit area of the airport for 1.4.4 Climate several days due to missing documents.

Turkmenistan has a continental climate with long hot summers. Winters are not too cold. The average temper- 1.5.3 Registration ature is 26-34°C in summer and −4°C to 4°C in winter. However, in northern regions the temperature in winter All foreigners entering Turkmenistan have to pay a reg- months can decrease to −20°C. istration fee of US$ 12 (2012) and will receive a green entry and departure card. Take particular care of the de- parture card, as it must be presented when leaving the 1.4.5 Read country. Foreigners staying for more than 3 days in Turkmenistan • Colin Thubron, The Lost Heart of Asia, Penguin, must register with IVOR in Ashgabat, Asady köcesi, 1994 phone 391337 or with IVOR branch offices in other towns. You are responsible for registration, even when • Daily Life in Turkmenbashy’s Golden Age by Sam staying in a . The hotel will give you a confirma- Tranum tion of the accommodation only. This confirmation and the receipt for the registration fee paid when entering the • Joe & Azat by Jesse Lonergan country have to be presented to IVOR. Two photos are re- 8 CHAPTER 1. TURKMENISTAN

Turkish Airlines flies to Ashgabat from Istanbul. Lufthansa flies from Frankfurt to Ashgabat. See Ashgabat page for more detailed information. FlyDubai offers service from Dubai to Ashgabat.

1.5.6 By train

There is a railway connection to and Iran, but no train crosses the border at any point of the country.

1.5.7 By car Statue in Balkanabat If you want to enter Turkmenistan with your own car, you quired. Registration will be stamped into your . need a liability insurance. The green International Insur- You have to give notice to the IVOR in order to be permit- ance Card is not valid in Turkmenistan. In addition you ted to leave the country. This notice will be stamped into have to pay an additional tax for the government subsi- the passport as well. Border controls will check if you dized fuel prices, depending on the distance of your travel have registration and notice to leave stamped into your in Turkmenistan. This tax has to be paid on the border passport. in US dollars. Be prepared to have long waiting times at border controls. By vehicle, you can get in through Kaza- khstan, Iran, Uzbekistan and Afghanistan. 1.5.4 Travel permits The road from Kazakhstan to Turkmenistan is in terri- ble condition. If you don't have an SUV, the drive from Travel permits are required for many border regions. Zhanaozen to the border may take up to 3 hours. The You do not need a travel permit for Ashgabat, Merv, drive from the border to may take another 3 Turkmenabat and Balkanabat. Transit visas allow you to hours. Make sure to bring enough supplies since the bor- travel along the main roads on your way to the next coun- der post is really isolated. Paperwork may take a long try on your itinerary. It is, however, absolutely necessary time but everything is very straightforward and people to have a travel permit for the following regions: are really friendly and helpful. Very few tourists cross this border. • in Western Turkmenistan: for Bekdash, Turkmenbashi, Haza, Dekistan, Yangykala, Gyzletrek, Nokhur and surroundings, 1.5.8 By bus • in Northern Turkmenistan: for the entire region of Dashogus including Konye Urgench, Dargan-Ata and Gazachak,

• in Eastern Turkmenistan: for Farab, Atamurat () and surroundings, Kugitang Nature Re- serve, Tagtabazar and Serkhetabat.

1.5.5 By plane

Turkmenistan Airlines has direct flights to Ashgabat from Abu Dhabi, Almaty, Amritsar, Bangkok, Beijing, Birmingham, Delhi, Dubai, Frankfurt, Istanbul, Kiev, London, Minsk, Moscow, and Saint Petersburg. Look out for the portrait of Sapamurat 'Turkmenbashi' Niya- Horse riders at the Independence Day Parade in Ashgabat zov at the front of the cabin. The schedules are often less-than-convenient, and there unfortunately is no web- Visitors holding visas can enter Turkmenistan from all site for the airlines with flights listed. It’s usually best to neighbouring countries. Checks at the border usually take visit the webpage of the airport from which you are de- one or two hours and maybe even more. Border points are parting to find the schedule. open daily from 09:00 to 18:00. 1.6. GET AROUND 9

From Iran 1.5.9 By boat

Since no public transportation goes across the Turk- Several popular travel guides discuss travelling by “ferry” men border, to get to Ashgabat in Turkmenistan from across the Caspian Sea from Baku, Azerbaijan, to the Mashhad (Iran), the following option is the most conve- port of Turkmenbashy in western Turkmenistan. Some nient: people have faced problems attempting to travel to Turk- menistan by boat. Travellers should be aware that these • Take a bus to Quchan: every 2 hours from 06:30. “ferries” are in fact cargo ships that take on some passen- Cost: 8000 rial. Duration: 2h30. gers incidental to their primary function. Passengers are • From Quchan, take a private taxi to Bajgiran (village generally not provided food or water on these ships, and at the border). Cost: 60,000 rial for 2, or less if you sleeping and sanitary facilities are likely to be rudimen- can. Duration: about 1h. tary. Travellers should be aware that ships arriving at the port of Turkmenbashy often wait days offshore for out- • At Bajgiran, go to the border (opening time: 07.30- going ships to vacate the dock to allow incoming ships to 15.30 Iran time). Crossing the border can take up disembark. Some people have spent more than a week to 2 hours. Turkmen police will ask for an entry tax offshore while their ship awaited permission to enter the of $10 (per person) + $2 of bank fees (per group), port, and they have run out of stores of food and water, or to be paid in US dollars only. had their Turkmen visas expire before they could be used. • In the Turkmenistan side, take a taxi to Ashgabat, For this and other reasons travellers, especially those who which can cost up to $15 per person. Duration: plan to enter Turkmenistan by boat, are discouraged from about 1h. using transit visas to enter Turkmenistan.

From Uzbekistan 1.6 Get around Each crossing may require 15 minutes’ walk across no- mans land, sometimes sharded taxis are available. There are three crossings from Uzbekistan to Turkmenistan:

• Farab from Bukhara: Take a taxi from Bukhara to the border (USD8) or a shared taxi to Uzbek Olot (Qarakul) and then a taxi to the border. From the border it is about 45 km to Turkmenabat. A taxi should cost about USD5 and a seat in a shared taxi less than USD1. • Dashgous from or Ugench: Take a taxi from Khiva or Urgench to the border for about USD10 and another one on the Turkmenistan side from the border to Dashgous for about USD1. • Khojeli from Nukus in Karalpakstan: Take a taxi for the 30 minutes drive from Nukus to the border for about USD10 or public transport from Khojeli National Museum, one of Turkmenbashi’s grand constructions. for about USD1 and a taxi for the 10 minutes drive to Konye Urgench for about USD1.

From Kazakhstan 1.6.1 By plane

It is two hours’ drive from Zhanaozen to the Turk- Internal flights are possible on Turkmenistan Airlines menistan border and another 40 minutes drive from the which flies daily between Ashgabat, Mary, Turkmen- border on a dirt road to the city of Karabogas (formerly bashi, Dashoguz and a couple other destinations. Flights Bekdash) The last 50km on each side of the border is are subsidised, and due to fuel costs, extremely cheap. a very bad dirt road. (approx. USD100 private car or Prices are around $5 US for a flight from Ashgabat to KZT10,000 per person shared). From Karabogas there Mary or Dashoguz. Turkmenistan Airlines operates with is a good road to Turkmenbashi with fine views on the a new fleet of Boeing 717s, purchased in 2001. Be aware Caspian Sea. About 60km south of Karabogas the road that you might not be able to photograph freely in and crosses a bridge over the channel connecting the Caspian around the airport, though this is not unheard of else- Sea with the inland gulf. where. 10 CHAPTER 1. TURKMENISTAN

1.6.2 By boat resources, or money to learn Turkmen. However, out of respect, and due to the fact only 50% of the people The Amu Darya is an important inland waterway for speak Russian, learning basic Turkmen would be advis- Turkmenistan. able. Turkmen was written in a Cyrillic alphabet dur- ing Soviet times and is now written in a Latin alphabet. Uzbek is widely understood in Turkmenistan, due to both 1.6.3 By car languages sharing common Turkic traits. Kazakh is also understood in the country (because of Turkic traits), yet At least in Ashgabat, like in much of the former Soviet very few Turkmen will understand Kazakh. Union, “taxis” are mostly unofficial - and can be hailed by Not many Turkmens will have a basic understanding of flagging down a car by the roadside. Haggle, and agree on English, even in the capital city. the destination and price in advance - knowledge of Rus- sian will definitely come in handy. The roads in Ashgabat and Turkmenbashi are in great condition. The road from Turkmenbashi to Ashgabat is currently being upgraded 1.8 See to a two lane, dual carriageway. The usual sensible precautions apply here. If your in- stincts suggest that something might be not quite right, then it’s best to go with your instincts. Roadblocks are in place throughout the country. You will be stopped and asked for your passport and car papers. Although inconvenient, this process won't take too long. Drive on the right. Minimum age: 17. International per- mit required. Speed limit: 60km/h in urban areas, 90 to 120km/h on highways. Police may also stop you for no reason. Just be polite and don't pay them a bribe. Radar guns may be used to measure your speed. If caught speed- ing you should negotiate a price, a few dollars should be fine in most cases.

Nisa Fortress 1.6.4 By train • It is possible to travel by train between some of the major Ashgabat cities in Turkmenistan, but journeys are slow (up to 16 • hours from Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi) - so unless you Karakum Desert have a specific interest, plane travel is the best way to get • Konye Urgench around the country. Rail service in Turkmenistan is provided by Turk- • Merv mendemiryollari (Turkmenistan Zeleznice), Ashgabat, phone 3632 255545, fax 3632 473858. On the prin- • Yangykala Canyon cipal trains they offer soft and hard accommodation with sleeping and dining cars. Tourist using rail ser- vices in Turkmenistan must expect to pay higher charges 1.9 Do than local people and to pay tickets in foreign currency. Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan Zeleznice) operates trains from Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi and via Mary to • Horse trekking with Akhal horses: Orexca Turkmenabat and return. offers a 12 day Turkem Akhalteke Horse Ride Won- ders of the Karakum Desert with transfer from Ash- gabar to Geokdepe Stud Farm, ride through the North East of the Karakum Desert to Tummekli, to 1.7 Talk the nomadic villages of Chyria, Gurrukly, Hakysh Gongurajy, Orazsahet and to the Geokdepe Reser- Around 70% of the people in Turkmenistan speak voir. Turkmen, and 50% speak decent Russian. If you are unable to speak Turkmen, then Russian would be your • Hiking in the Kugitang Nature Reserve (travel per- best bet to communicate. Not everyone has the time, mit required) or in the mountains around Nokhur. 1.10. BUY 11

• Adventure tour and camel trek in the Kara it should only be accepted in international hotels or at the Kum Desert. Stantours offers a 14 day off road airport according to regulations. Credit cards are only and camel tour through Eastern Turkmenistan with accepted in big international hotels and banks in the big- a drive from Ashgabat to the Yangykala Canyon, ger cities. Only Visa credit cards are currently accepted visit of Gozel Ata, camel treks in the Eastern (MasterCard will be introduced in the near future but it’s Karabogaz basin and Kaplankyr National Park, vis- currently usable only at one single bank in Ashgabat). its of Karashor salt lake, Sarakamysh lake and Yab- gysu Canyon 1.10.3 Shopping

1.9.1 Suggested itineraries The bazaars are the heart of every town in Turkmenistan. Bazaars are usually open daily 08:00-20:00 including • Turkmenistan in 3 days: if you are short of Sundays. Large markets, like the Tolkuchka Bazaar in time, you can visit the most important sites in a the outskirts of Ashgabat are open two or three mornings few days: day 1 arrival in Ashgabat, day 2 flight per week only. Bazaars outside Ashgabat will be closed to Dashoguz, visit of Konye Urgench, return flight at daylight hours during the cotton harvest season in au- from Dashoguz to Ashgabat in the same evening, tumn. Government shops are closed on Sundays and at overnight in Ashgabat, day 3 morning flight to Mary, lunch time. visit of Merv, return flight to Ashgabat in the same Why not add to your own despotic library by adding evening, overnight in Ashgabat, day 4 Ashgabat, Turkmenbashi’s self-penned Ruhnama book, exploring sightseeing, day 5 departure from Ashgabat his views on what it means to be a Turkmen. Surpris- ingly, this is a fairly sensible read. 1.10 Buy 1.10.4 Rugs

A Turkoman carpet

Turkoman rugs are famous, tending towards rich reds Russian Bazaar with geometric patterns. Some traditional patterns are unique to each tribe, and an expert can generally identify the tribe from the shape of the medallion-like pattern el- 1.10.1 Costs ements called guls. However, it is fairly common to find a mixture; when a weaver from one tribe marries into a different tribe, she may use elements from both in her Turkmenistan is the most expensive country in Central creations. Asia. Expect to pay USD30 for a basic double room. A more comfortable option is around USD60. A street Sometimes Turkoman rugs are called “Bokhara” rugs be- snack is USD1 to USD3. A meal in a good in cause Bukhara in neighbouring Uzbekistan was a cen- Ashgabat costs about USD20. tre for their trade. Turkmenistan is not the only source of Turkoman rugs; Uzbekistan and northern areas of both Iran and Afghanistan have some Turkoman people. 1.10.2 Currency Other Afghan rugs are heavily influenced by Turkoman design and Turkoman designs are often copied in India The official currency in Turkmenistan is new manat and Pakistan; dealers may also call those rugs “Bokhara” (TMT) = 100 tenge. The rate of exchange in October but, while some of them are fine rugs, in general they are 2014 was €1 = TMT3.57, GBP1 = TMT4.55, and USD1 neither as high quality nor as valuable as real Turkoman = TMT2.85. The US dollar is widely accepted, although rugs. 12 CHAPTER 1. TURKMENISTAN

Today, wool is often coloured with synthetic and not with natural ; back in the 19th and early 20th century, this was a problem because early synthetic dyes were of low quality. Today, it is much less of an issue but some col- lectors still prefer natural dyes, mainly because they give better arbrash, the subtle variation in colour across a rug. You need an export permission for carpets purchased in a bazaar or private shop. The Expert Commission on the back of the Carpet Museum in Ashgabat (phone 398879 and 398887, opening hours Mon to Fri 14:30 to 17:30, Sat 10:00 to 12:00) has to certify that the carpet is not more than 50 years old and may be exported. This costs TMT115 per square metre and can take a few days. In addition carpets exceeding 1.5 square metres are subject to an export duty of TMT400 per square metre. payable Bread baking in Bai Bazaar, Dashoguz in USD at the official rate of exchange at customs on de- parture. 1.12 Drink Some carpet factories are run by the state owned company Turkmenhaly. If you buy a carpet in a state shop, the Look out for a range of 'Turkmenbashi' labeled vodka, export fees normally are included in the price, although which can be washed down with the range of Russian customs will charge a commission fee of 0.2 percent of 'Baltika' brand beer. It can be harder to find local beers the price of the carpet. in outlets catering to foreigners, but 'Berk' is well worth For an accessible (still in print and sanely priced) guide to asking for; 'Zip', on the other hand, is awful. these carpets, look for books by the California collector Tea is excellent and readily available. Dr. Murray Eiland. If you intend spending a lot on these carpets and especially if you are interested in older car- Best to err on the side of caution, and stick with bottled pets, it may be worth looking deeper. The classic book water. As in Russia, you may want to specify byehz gah- on Turkoman rugs is Tappiseries de l'Asie Centrale by AA zah (literally, 'without gas’ or 'still; plain') if you do not Bogolyubov, who was Tsarist governor of Turkmenistan, like fizzy water. 'Borjomi' mineral water from Georgia is published in Russian and French in St. Petersburg in available in Ashgabat’s shops. 1905. It was a limited edition with hand-painted illus- Local people prefer to drink gok chai - green tea, often trations, and is now rare and extremely expensive (sev- with dried fruits or herbs, as mint. eral thousand dollars). A translation (the original French plus English), Carpets of Central Asia edited by J.M.A. Thompson, was published in Britain in the 1960s; it is 1.13 Sleep no longer in print but can be found in libraries. On the used market, it is both much easier to find and far less expensive than the original. 1.14 Stay safe

1.11 Eat

Expect distinctly average Russian cuisine in restaurants. As in Uzbekistan, plov and more central Asian-type fare can be found in markets. If you can find it, try sturgeon from the Caspian Sea, sometimes prepared in a 'tempura' style. Meals often start with a soup, as chorba, a meat and vegetable soup. Another national dish is plov, rice with mutton, onions, carrots, spices, raisins, peas or quinces. Manty are steamed dumplings filled with lamb. Ku'urma is lamb, cooked in its own fat. Ichlekli is a Turkmenistan’s main cities, Ashgabat here, are modern & clean. meat and onion pie and gutap is a pie filled with meat, potatoes, spinach and pumpkin. Turkmenistan is safe and friendly country as long as a vis- 1.15. STAY HEALTHY 13

itor does not discuss politics. Politics remain a very sen- think of this of walking with a prostitute and can simply sitive issue, and it is your responsibility that you do not arrest you. involve yourself in or speak out against the government, Most taxis are not regulated by any government licensing since it is considered a crime. For safety and respect, agency and drivers are usually private citizens looking to Do not under any circumstances criticise the President, make money. The majority of cars will not have seat belts the country or its people. Things have eased a bit since or other safety devices, and drivers may not have had any Turkmenbashi’s death, but the country remains a tightly- formal driver training. For safety reasons, visitors should controlled police state. The Ruhnama, a book written for strongly consider hiring a private car and driver through the Turkmen people by Suparmurat Niyazov is still sold, their or hotel. and still learned in Turkmen schools. As such, it is best not to criticise the former President as well. Penalties for breaking the law can be severe. Homosexual activities, prostitution and intercourse with prostitutes are Turkmenistan, like any other Central Asian country, is prohibited, for example homosexuality is punishable by 2 a fairly corrupt country. Corrupt officials and authori- years in prison. ties may ask for bribes, and so if you are pulled over for any reason, simply pay the bribe. It is also possible that you will be asked by police for documents. This is rather rare, but this can happen at any time and they have a le- 1.15 Stay healthy gal right to do so. You should carry your passport and visa with you, though in practice, it is better to make a Vaccinations against diphtheria, tetanus, polio, hepatitis colour scan of the first two pages of your passport and A and B are recommended. A vaccination against typhus your visa before you arrive. Carry the colour copies with is also recommended in case you stay in poor hygienic you when you're walking around, and keep the original conditions, and a course of 3 vaccinations against rabies documents in the hotel safe. Also, upon arrival make a is recommended for long term stays and frequent contact copy of your visa page. The scanned documents will al- with animals or if you are not able to get to a clinic to be most always suffice. If not, make it clear to the Police treated within 18 hours of being bitten. that he will have to come to your hotel to see the originals. Medical supply does not correspond to American or Eu- Nevertheless, policemen will demand a bribe for this. Al- ropean standards. Bring the medicines you need for your ways be polite with the police, but also be firm. Although personal use with you, as they will be unavailable outside rare, police can take visitors/locals to secluded places to of Ashgabat. A covering hospital care beat up people for even more money, so stay alert. Police and an emergency flight to your home country is strictly are the most frequent problem you will always come up recommended. across and be warned that they are generally very aggres- sive, especially during the night, expect some harassment Avoid drinking tap water. Tap Water in Turkmenistan from them. Many hotels, including very good ones, are is known to contain traces of toxic metals, and this can frequently bugged by the police. Do not sign any docu- cause long-term health problems. ments provided by the police if it is in a language you do Fruits and vegetables should be peeled before consump- not know, as it may be that they may try to rip you off for tion. Avoid dairy products as they are not pasteurized. some more money. Just be polite with them, and just say that you do not understand it. A curfew prevents people from leaving from 23:00, and 1.16 Respect this law applies to non-residents as well. Going out will get you arrested. Taking taxis or hiring private drivers Because of the nation’s history (past and current), Turk- may avoid problems, but don't be too dependent on this men avoid talking politics, and you should too. Turkmens option, as it is possible it may not save your life. are notoriously xenophobic—not in a hostile way, but in It is possible to take photographs relatively freely in Turk- a suspicious and wary way, no doubt a product of having menistan. However, you are best advised to exercise cau- had to stay guarded from any attention from the secret tion when photographing anyone in uniform or govern- police over the past century. To win friends, it’s best to ment buildings. In Ashgabat, there are uniformed po- keep opinions to yourself, and let them take the lead in lice/military on every street corner. Play it safe early on conversation, ideally complemented with a little Russian in your visit to give yourself an idea of what is accept- vodka. able. There are almost no 'no photo signs’. If you are in doubt ask the next policeman if you are allowed to take a picture. 1.17 Connect It should not be necessary for your guide to accompany you if you wish to leave your hotel, and go for a wander. Try to not walk with a female companion - Police may Chapter 2

Ahal Province

Ahal Province is the central region of Turkmenistan, 2.3 Understand home to the capital, Ashgabat. 2.4 Get in 2.1 Cities 2.5 Get around • Anau 2.6 See • Ashgabat — the country’s largest city and national capital, home to an array of bizarre, enormous mon- uments and palatial buildings constructed by the late 2.7 Do megalomaniacal dicator, Saparmurat Niyazov. 2.8 Eat • Baharden — a town on the northern rim of the mountain range. 2.9 Drink • Buzmeyin (Abadan) — a small city home to a large power plant. 2.10 Stay safe • Dushak — a small town on th erim of the Kopet Dag mountain range. 2.11 Go next • Geok-tepe — site of the Turkmens’ last stand against the Russian Empire.

• Tejen — a small city on the River (Tejen River).

2.2 Other destinations

• Altin Depe

• Jeitun

• Darvaza — the Gates of Hell, an arresting, colossal flaming crater in the middle of the Karakum.

• Mane Baba — an eleventh century mausoleum south of Tejen.

• Nissa — the ruins of one of the most important cities of the Parthian Empire.

14 Chapter 3

Altin Depe

Altin Depe is an archaeological site in Ahal Province, The religious complex consisted of a four-stepped tower Turkmenistan. similar to the ziggurats of Mesopotamia with a small shrine on top. Here the small gold heads of a wolf and a bull were found which are now displayed at the Mu- 3.1 Understand seum in Ashgabat. According to the Russian archaeolo- gist V.M.Masson the cult complex was dedicated to the Moon God, as in Mesopotamian mythology the Moon Altin Depe (“Golden Hill”) is a settlement of the Ene- God was closely connected with the figure of a bull. olithic and Bronze Ages, dating back to the 3rd and begin- ning of the 2nd millennium BC. It was abandoned around There have been no excavations here for many years and 1600 BC, as the soil was exhausted or due to changes in it is very difficult to find one’s way on the site. climate. Altin Depe formed a large settlement covering around 6 hectares during the early period (5th millen- 3.5 Do nium BC). Altin Depe reached its apex at the end of the 3rd and beginning of the 2nd millennium BC. Altin Depe had close connections to contemporary Mesopotamia and 3.6 Buy the Harappa culture in Hindustan. 3.7 Eat 3.2 Get in 3.8 Drink Altin Depe is situated about 20 km south of Tejen and about 230 km south east of Ashgabat. Tejen is on the 3.9 Sleep main road from Ashgabat to Mary. It is about a 3 hours’ drive from Ashgabat to Altin Depe. • Hotel Tejen, Khivaly Babeava Köcesi, Tejen (about 20 km to the North on the Ashgabar - Mary road), ☎ +993 135 21105. no air condition, communal show- 3.3 Get around ers, outside toilets 60.000M.

• Mausoleum of Abu Said Meikhene 3.10 Connect 3.4 See 3.11 Go next The settlement shows a separation of the living quar- ters according to the wealth and status of their inhabi- tants. The artisans’ quarter contained many rooms for large families with a common household and poorly fur- nished tombs. The quarter of wealthy citizens had houses for small families with separate courtyards. The quarter for the nobility had regularly planned streets with neatly built hoses, covering an area of 80 to 100 square meters each.

15 Chapter 4

Anau

Anau (Anew) is a city in Ahal Province, Turkmenistan.

4.1 Understand

The name is derived from 'Abi-Nau', meaning 'new wa- ter'. The place was inhabited from the 4th millennium BC onwards and the culture of this period is called Anau culture. The excavation of this site was begun in 1904 by the American archaeologist Raphael Pumpelli. The site was surrounded by a great wall and a ditch. During the excavations children’s skeletons, painted ceramics with geometrical ornaments and the oldest remains of camels were found. It is assumed that camels were first domesti- cated in the territory of what is today Turkmenistan. The fortress of Anau was inhabited during the period of the Seyit Jemaletdin Mosque before the 1948 earthquake Parthian Empire (3rd cent.BC - 3rd.cent AD). who chose a site near the grave of his father Jemalet- din. The mosque was completely destroyed in the 4.2 Get in earthquake of 1948.

Anau is situated 15 km south east of Ashgabat. An outstanding feature of this mosque is a mosaic above The main market in Anau can be easily reached by bus the entrance arch depicting two dragons facing each from Teke Bazaar is Ashgabat. From the final stop it is other. The mosaic is about 8 meters high. According to possible to walk 2 km east to Anau I and Anau II Neolithic the legend a kind hearted queen lived on the fortress and mounds or 4.5 km, mainly along M37 road, to Seyit Je- the people from the surrounding villages often brought maletdin Mosque. There is no public transport reaching their wishes to her. Once an enormous dragon rang the the mosque. bell and explained that another dragon needed help. The queen’s servants freed him from a goat whose horns had been caught in the dragon’s mouth. The grateful drag- 4.3 Get around ons gave the queen objects of great value and the queen ordered the magnificent mosque to beu built for them. Some people think that the dragons were totems of the 4.4 See Turkmen tribe which inhabited the area in the 15th cent. and that Seyit Jemaletdin belonged to this tribe. • Tell Anau I and Anau II. Neolithic settlements. Today, the Seyit Jemaletdin Mosque is a much revered place of pilgrimage. Childless couples bring children’s • The Seyit Jemaletdin Mosque, East of the ne- clothes as an offering and baby dolls are left in tiny ham- olithic settlements, in the Southern part of the mocks between two sticks. fortress, is outstanding among the small number of monuments of the Timurid era in Turkmenistan. It was built during the reign of Abu Kasim Baber Ba- hadurhan in Khorezm (1446-1447). Its construc- 4.5 Do tion was paid for by his vizir Muhammed Khudaiot,

16 4.11. GO NEXT 17

4.6 Buy

4.7 Eat

4.8 Drink

4.9 Sleep

4.10 Connect

4.11 Go next Chapter 5

Ashgabat

Ashgabat (Turkmen: Aşgabat, also Ashkabat, Ashkhabad, Ashgabad, etc.) is the capital of Turkmenistan, surrounded by Ahal Province.

Ylham Alley Ashgabat

Street scene from Ashgabat

Beautiful view of Ashgabat city 5.1 Understand themselves at first awestruck and then severely confused given the sheer similarity of most of the buildings. Ashgabat’s historical appellation is The City of Love but nowadays its modern nickname, The City of White Marble will seem vastly more appropriate. Turk- menbashi, the prior president of Turkmenistan, trans- 5.2 Get in formed the city from a relatively drab Soviet capital to a city of pure white marble buildings, many contain- 5.2.1 By plane ing some rather overbearing symbolism (the Ministry of World Affairs building is a perfect illustration). Short • Turkmenistan Airlines operates international flights of Pyongyang, Ashgabat is probably the best example of from Abu Dhabi/United Arab Emirates on Fri what happens when a city gets redesigned according to and Sun, from Almaty/Kazakhstan on Sat, from the vision of exactly one man, and most visitors will find Amritsar/India on Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun,

18 5.3. GET AROUND 19

• Lufthansa operates flight from Frankfurt/Germany on Tue, Fri and Sat (via Baku/Azerbaijan).

• Turkish Airlines has flights from Istanbul/Turkey leaving Istanbul on Wed, Fri and Sun, arriving in Ashgabat next morning.

• Belavia has flights from Minsk/Belarus.

• S7 Airlines has flights from Moscow/Russia.

• Uzbekistan airways has flights from Tashkent/Uzbekistan.

Ashgabat Berdimuhamedov • flyDubai has flights from Dubai/UAE.

• China Southern Airlines has flights from China .

5.2.2 By rail

Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan Zeleznice) runs trains to Ashgabat from Turkmenbashi and Turkmenabad via Mary. Trains leave Turkmenbashi every second day at 7.30 pm and arrive in Ashgabat at 5.20 am next morning or daily at 4.05 pm, arriving in Ashgabat at 5.50 am next morning. Trains leave Turkmenabad at 6 pm and Mary at 0.25 am daily and arrive in Ashgabat at 8.20 am next morn- Street view of Ashgabat , Turkmenistan ing, Another train leaves Turkmenabad at 9.55 pm and Mary at 2.50 am every second day, arriving in Ashgabat from Birmingham/United Kingdom on Thu, Fri at 9.35 am next morning. There is a day train leaving and Sun, from Delhi/India on Sat and Sun, Turkmenabad at 4.20 am and Mary at 10.23 am, arriving from Dubai/United Arab Emirates on Tue, from in Ashgabat at 6.35 pm. Frankfurt/Germany on Tue, Sat and Sun, from Istanbul/Turkey on Mon, Tue, Wed and Sat, from 5.2.3 By car Kiev/Ukraine on Sat, from London/United King- dom on Tue and Sat, from Moscow/Russia from Distances to Ashgabat: Almaty in Kazakhstan 2120 Mon to Sat and from Tashkent/Uzbekistan on Tue. km, Bishkek in 1870 km, Tashkent in International flights are operated by B-737 or B-757 Uzbekistan 1290 km, Samarkand in Uzbekistan 1000 aircraft. (2009) km, Shakrisyabz in Uzbekistan 1100 km, Turkmenabad 590 km, Mary 350 km, Mashhad in Iran 270 km, Turkmenistan Airlines offers domestic flights from Dashoguz 650 km. Dashogus (6 flights per day), Mary (3 flights per day), Turkmenabat (5 flights per day) and Turkmenbashi (3 flights per day). (2009) 5.3 Get around Turkmenistan Airlines has offices in Moscow, Lon- don, Frankfurt, Istanbul, Karachi, Abu Dhabi, Delhi, “Taxi”, by which everyone means hitchhiking is proba- Bangkok, Almaty, Minsk and Kiev. bly the best way to get around Ashgabat. Simply hold out your arm at a downward angle with two fingers extended, • Aerosvit Ukrainian Airlines has two flights per week and a car (usually a Lada) will stop. Say where you are from Kiev/Ukraine via Baku/Azerbaijan. going. If they nod, get in, otherwise they will go on and you have to wait for the next car. Expect payment to be • There is one flight from Tehran/Iran via about $2 per person. Note that hitchhiking is an entirely Mashad/Iran on Thu, operated by Iranian Air- safe mode of transport in Turkmenistan—everyone uses lines it. 20 CHAPTER 5. ASHGABAT

There are also official taxis which can be easily found in 10th anniversary of Turkmenistan’s independence. front of the arrivals hall of the airport and close to the 12000M. railway station. They are safer but more expensive. • Museum of Turkmen National Values (inside the Ashgabat has a very extensive and convenient bus system. Independence Monument), ☎ +993 12 451954. 9am The main public transport hub is Teke Bazaar. From that to 12,30 pm, 2 to 5,30 pm, daily. In the first floor, place any location within the city or in its environs can the Museum houses displays of silver jewellery for be easily reached. In the modern part of the city there women and horses, and replicas of the golden bull- are air-conditioned bus stops with detailed maps of routes and wolf-head sculptures from Altyn Depe. US$ 10, of every bus line departing from a stop. The cost of a 25000M for photographs. single ride is 0.20 TMT. The price should be paid by every passenger to the basket located close to driver’s seat while getting off the bus. Alternatively a multi-ride should be 5.4.2 Monuments presented to the driver. • Turkmenistan Independence Monument (take bus 16 or 34 from the city center). The most impor- 5.4 See tant monument of Ashgabat in located in the south- ern part of Turkmenistan Independence Park, which 5.4.1 Museums covers an area 2 km long and 1 km wide. The area around the Independence Monument contains mon- • National Museum, Archabil sayoli 30 (in front uments of famous people of Turkmen history: the of the Kopet Dag), ☎ +993 12 454954. 9am to founder of the Seljuk dynasty Seljuk Beg, the founder 5pm. Hall 1 is dedicated to post-independence of the Turkmen people Oguz Han, the Turkmen Turkmenistan, Hall 2 (upstairs) has a focus on an- poet Magtymguly, the Seljuk leader Sultan Sanjar, cient history with exhibits from sites the Turkmen warrior Georoglythe Seljuk rulers Alp and artefacts from . Halls 3 shows arte- Arslan and Malik Shah, the 18th century leader of facts found at the Parthian site of Nisa. In Hall the Ahal Tekkes Keymir Kor, the poets Zelilli and 4 a model of the medieval Merv, dioramas from Sydi, the leader of the White Sheep confederation Konye Urgench and Anau and the beautiful Merv Uzyn Hasan, the father of the founder of the Ot- vase are exhibited. Hall 5 and 6 display collections toman Empire Ertogul Gazy, the Turkmen comman- of weapons, musical instruments, silver jewellery der and poet Bairam Han, the poets Molianepes and and female dress. In Hall 7 (downstairs) a 20 m x Mataji, the Turkmen leader Gara Yusup, the Seljuk 13 m carpet is exhibited. US$10, camerra US$1. ruler Togrul Beg, the spiritual leader Gorkut Ata and the poet Kemine. • Museum of Fine Arts (west of the Palace of Jus- tice), ☎ +993 12 351566. Wed to Mon 9am to 6pm. • Ashgabat Flagpole (in front of the National Mu- The Central Hall has a large picture of President seum). The former tallest freestanding flagpole in Niyazov Abundance of the Harvest. In the Indepen- the world. dence Hall the heroic figures of the nation (Oguz Han, Togrul Beg, Alp Arslan and the poet Seydi) are shown. The museum also contains a reconstruction 5.4.3 Other sites of the dragen freeze of the mosque of Arnau and • exhibitions of Turkmen paintings before and after Tolkuchka Bazaar (8 km north of Ashgabad, past 1950. The first floor is devoted to Russian paintings the airport). Satt, Sun 8am to 2pm. one of Central from the 19th century and to European paintings, in- Asia’s most colourful bazaars, cluding minor works by Tiepolo and Poussin. US$ • 10. Turkmenbashi Cableway, Kopet Dag (south of the National Museum). 9am to 10pm. Cable car, opened in 2006, climbing up to 1290 meters, offer- • , 5 Georogly köcesi, ☎ ing spectacular views over the city with the desert in +993 12 398879. Mon to Fri 10am to 1pm., 2 to 6 the background 1000M. pm. The museum houses antique carpets of the 18th and 19th centuries and modern carpets from all parts of the country. There is a nearly 200 square me- ters carpet which was intended as curtain of the Bol- 5.5 Do shoi Theatre in Moscow, but proved too heavy. The pride of the museum is the largest hand-woven car- 5.5.1 Theatres pet in the world, as certified by the Guinness Book of Records. It covers 300 square meters and was • Mollanepes Drama Theatre, Magtymguly sayoli woven by 40 carpet makers on the occasion of the 79, ☎ +993 12 357463. Wes to Sat 7pm. US$ 0,25. 5.10. COPE 21

• Magtymguly Theatre, Shevchenko köcesi, ☎ +993 Street, 18B, Apparently owned by family of 12 350564. Fri to Sun 7pm. Turkmen musical per- Saparmurat Niyazov, this is a four-star hotel with formances air conditioning, swimming pool, pool bar, sauna, Turkish sauna, gym, jacuzzi. This is about the “best” • Pushkin Russian Theatre, Magtymguly sayoli quality hotel you'll find in Ashgabat (think some- 142, ☎ +993 12 3654193. Sat, SUn 7pm. US$ 0,25. what run-down and a bit overpriced for its features), about a 10 minute walk from the war memorial and book shop. The restaurant has decent Italian food. 5.6 Buy Expect to come across lots of foreign workers, and women of dubious persuasion at the hotel bar. Some English is, however, spoken. The Yimpas Shopping Center, Turkmenbashi sayoli 75, 9am to 11pm, is the largest modern shopping cen- • tre (it is pronounced “Yimpash” and should be known by Hotel President, Новоарчабильское шоссе 54, anyone who stops to give you a lift) and has a western- Tel: +993 (12) 400000, Fax 993 (12) 40 00 41 like supermarket where you can buy all necessary stuff and 993 (12) 40 02 22, E-Mail: presidentho- like food, drink, soap, toothbrush, cosmetics etc. Proba- [email protected] bly the only one in the whole city. The shopping center • Hotel Grand Turkmen (Гостиница "Грант has a nice food court in the second floor where you can Туркмен Отель"), ul. Georogly 7 (ул. Героглы, get all kinds of kebabs for reasonable prices. You can also 7), 744000 Ашхабад, Tel: +993 12 51-05-55; Fax rent pool tables, play table tennis or go bowling there, or +993 12 511251, E-mail: [email protected] use the internet café. • Hotel Ak Altyn, Magtumguly ave 141/1, Tel: • Tolkuchka Bazaar: 8 km north of Ashgabad, past +993 12 36 37 00 and +993 12 363701, Fax the airport, Sat, Sun 8am to 2pm, also Thu morning +993 12 363543 and +993 12 36 34 94, E-Mail: at a smaller scale. Buy a telpek (sheepskin) for US$ [email protected]. $75 per night, Visa accepted 10 to 15, a khalat (red and yellow striped robe for (MasterCard is not). Contains offices of the British men) for US$ 15 or a typical for US$ 150 Embassy and American Information Centre, so it’s a to 250. Be aware that you also need an export cer- good place to stay if you find yourself needing assis- tificate, which you can get at the 'expert commission' tance. Supposed to have WiFi but is so slow it’s ef- behind the Carpet Museum, Görogly köcesi 5. fectively useless, internet available in telecom build- ing less than a block away though. • Carpet Shop, Görogly köcesi 5, east of the Carpet Museum, run by the government. • Hotel Azatlyk, ☎ +993 12 48 87 00, fax: +993 12 48 81 55, e-mail: [email protected]. • Gulistan market (Russian bazaar), ul. M. Kosaev (opposite ). 9AM. Centrally • located universal market: fruit, vegetables, hand- Hotel Ahal, ☎ +993 12 48 87 37, fax: +993 12 48 crafts, clothing. 8PM. 01 92, e-mail: [email protected]. • Hotel Nebitchi, ☎ +993 12 489360, fax: +993 12 489312. 5.7 Eat • Dovranov , Garaja Burunov (old: Krup- • Asuda Nusay, Alishera Navoi Köcesi 54a, ☎ +993 skaya), or 1997 st. No: 36 (Close to '1st Children Ho- 12 352288. speciality: sturgeon from the Caspian pital'), ☎ +993 12 92-71-78. Homestay where you'll Sea stay with the big family. $10,- for B&B + Dinner. Daughter Jennet speaks English. • Altyn Jam, Magtymgily sayoli 101, ☎ +993 12 396850. European dishes and sweets 5.10 Cope 5.8 Drink 5.10.1 Internet

5.9 Sleep Internet cafes are available at some locations around town. Price is 6 TMT per hour. Yimpas Shopping Center Great • Hotel Nissa, ☎ +993 12 22-10-25, fax: +993 Turkman Hotel Russian Market Sofitel, aka Oguz Kent, 12 22-10-23, e-mail: [email protected]. Atabaeva Features free wifi in lobby and bar. 22 CHAPTER 5. ASHGABAT

5.10.2 Airlines • China, Kuvvat Hotel, Berzengi, ☎ +993 12 488105, fax: +993 12 481813. Tue to Fri 3 to 6 pm. • Aeroflot, Turkmenistan Söwda merkazi, Mag- tymguly sayoli 73, ☎ +993 12 398792. • France, Ak ALtyn Hotel, third floor, ☎ +993 12 363550, +993 12 363468, fax: +993 12 363546. • Aerosovit Ukrainian Airlines, Turkmenistan Mon to Fri 9am to 1pm, 3 to 5pm. Söwda merkazi, Magtymguly sayoli 73, ☎ +993 12 350164. • Georgia, Azadi köcesi 139a, ☎ +993 12 330828, fax: +993 12 330248. Mon to Fri 9am to 6pm. • Armavia, Turkmenbasi sayoli 15, ☎ +993 12 390548. • Germany, Al Alty Hotel, first floor, Magtumguly Avenue, ☎ +993 12 363515, +993 12 363517, fax: • British Airways, Grand Turkmen Hotel, Görogly +993 12 363522, e-mail: or [email protected] köcesi 71, ☎ +993 12 510799. [email protected] or [email protected]. • Iranian Airlines, Magtymguly sayoli 71, ☎ +993 Mon to Fri 9 to 12 am. 12 510641. • India, Emeryal Business Center, 1 Yunus Emre • Lufthansa, http://www.lufthansa.com (Main con- köcesi, mir 2/1, ☎ +993 12 456153, fax: +993 12 course, Saparmurat Turkmenbash Airport), ☎ +993 456156. 12 510684, +993 12 510331. • Iran, Tehran köcesi 3, ☎ +993 12 350236, fax: • Pakistan InternationalAirlines, Magtymguly say- +993 12 350565. Mon to Fri 8.30 to 12 am. oli 71, ☎ +993 12 511838. • Japan, Paytagi Offic Building, Parahat District, ☎ • Turkish Airlines, Magtymguly sayoli 73, ☎ +993 +993 12 477081, fax: +993 12 477083. 12 5161666, +993 12 512219. • Kazakhstan, Garaszylik sayoli 11-13, International • Turkmenistan Airlines, Magtymguly sayoli 82, ☎ Ustay Compound, Berzengi, ☎ +993 12 480468, +993 12 352643, +993 12 394271. fax: +993 12 480468. Tue, Thu and Fri 9 to 12am, 5 to 6 pm. • Uzbekistan Havo Yullari/Uzbekistan Airways, Main Concourse, Saparmurat Turkmenbashi Air- • Kyrgyzstan, Görogly köcesi 14, ☎ +993 12 port, ☎ +993 12 378203. 392064. Mon to Fri 10 to 12 am, 4 to 6 pm. • Belavia, st. 2028 (Govshudova) 50/2, 4 th Floor, ☎ • Netherlands, Tehran köcesi 17, ☎ +993 12 346700, +993 12 92 64 09. fax: +993 12 344252. Mon to Fri 9am to 6pm.

• Pakistan, Garashszlyk köcesi 4/1, ☎ +993 12 5.10.3 Emergencies 482128, +993 12 482129, fax: +993 12 482130, e- mail: [email protected]. Mon to Fri 9-12 Dial 01 for the fire brigade, 02 for police, 03 for ambu- am. lance. Be aware that the operators will speak Turkmen and Russian only. • Poland, Azadi köcesi 14, ☎ +993 12 274035, fax: +993 12 274035. 5.10.4 Embassies and Consulates • Romania, K.Burunov köcesi 43A, ☎ +993 12 347655, fax: +993 12 347620. • Afghanistan, Garashsyzlyk köcesi, Berzengi, ☎ • +993 12 480757, fax: +993 12 480726. Mon to Russia, Turkmenbashi sayoli 11, ☎ +993 12 Fri 9am to 5pm. 335957, +993 12 391505, fax: +993 12 398466, e-mail: [email protected]. • Armenia, Ingenernaya köcesi 37, ☎ +993 12 354418, +993 12 395542, fax: +993 12 395538, • Saudi Arabia, Emperyal Business Center, Yunus e-mail: [email protected]. Mon to Fri 10-12 am. Emre köcesi 1, ☎ +993 12 454963, fax: +993 12 454970. • Azerbaijan, 2062 köcesi 44, ☎ +993 12 364608, fax: +993 12 3646510, e-mail: • , Gorgoly köcesi 14, ☎ +993 12 480163, azsefi[email protected]. Mon to Fri 9am to fax: +993 12 481877, e-mail: [email protected]. 1pm, 2 to 6 pm. Mon to Fri 9am to 1pm, 3 to 5 pm. • Belarus, Maxim Gorki köcesi 81, ☎ +993 12 • Turkey, Shevchenko köcesi 9, ☎ +993 12 331183, fax: +993 12 331185. Tue to Fri 3 to 6 354118, fax: +993 12 391914, e-mail: pm. [email protected]. 5.11. GO NEXT 23

• Ukraine, Azadi köcesi 49, ☎ +993 12 391874, fax: • Bakharden, 100 km West of Ashgabat, near the +993 12 391028, e-mail: [email protected]. Kopet Dag mountains, cave with the Köw Ata Lake with hot thermal water, however, smelling of sul- • United Arab Emirates, Kalifa center, Turkem- phur, a favorite place for for people of bashi sayoli 124, ☎ +993 12 456915, fax: +993 12 Ashgabat at weekends. 456916. • Nokhur, 150 km from Ashgabar in South Western • United Kingdom, Ak Altyn Hotel third floor, Turkmenistan in the valleys of the Kopet Dag moun- ☎ +993 12 363462, +993 12 363463, +993 12 tains. The people of Nokhur claim to be direct de- 363464. Mon to Fri 9am to 5pm. scendants of Macedonian warriors of Alexander the Great’s times, • United States, ☎ +993 12 35 00 45, fax: +993 12 39 26 14, e-mail: [email protected]. • Anau, 15 km South East of Ashgabat • • Uzbekistan, Turkmenbashy sayoli 124, ☎ +993 12 Altyn Depe is a settlement of the Eneolithic and 342419, fax: +993 12 342337. Mon, Wed, Fri Bronze Ages. It has been extensively excavated dur- 10am to 1pm. ing the Soviet period. The settlement has specialised potter’s quarters, evidence of a differentiation of the living quarters according to the wealth of their in- 5.10.5 Medical services habitants and a monumental cult complex. During excavations a small golden head of a wolf and a bull • Central Hospital, Emre köcesi 1, phone 450303 or were found. According to the Russian archaeologist 450331. Foreigners have to pay for their medical V.M.Masson, the cult complex was dedicated to the treatment. Moon Good as in Mesopotamia. The site was aban- doned in the middle of the second millennium BC. • International Medical Center, Berzegi, phone 519006 or 519008. 5.11.2 Farther Afield • Lechebnii Hospital, Shevchenko sayoli, phone 390877. By plane

• Dr.Arslan Nepesow, Turkembashi köcesi 124, Turkmenistan Airlines offers domestic flights toDashogus phone 425250 (6 flights per day), Mary (3 flights per day), Turkmenabat (5 flights per day) and Turkmenbashi (3 flights per day), as of 2009. 5.10.6 Registration

• OVIR (State Service for the Registration of For- By rail eign Citizens), 2011 köcesi 57, phone +993 12 Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan Zeleznice) (phone 391337, 9 to 12 am, 2 to 5 pm. All persons entering 255545, fax 473858) runs trains from Ashgabat to Turkmenistan on a tourist or business visa have to Turkmenbashi and Turkmenabat via Mary. register within three working days. You need three passport photos and your entry card. In most cases Train 24 to Turkmenbashi leaves Ashgabat every second the that invited you will organise this day at 8.40 pm and arrives at Turkmenbashi at 6.55 am for you. Persons holding transit visa are not required next morning. Train 606 leaves Ashgabat daily at 8.10 to register. pm, arriving in Turkmenbashi at 9.15 am next morning. Trains to Turkmenabat and Mary leave Ashabat at 7.40 daily, arriving at Mary at 5 pm and at Turkmenabat at 11 5.11 Go next pm. Train 195 leaves Ashabat daily at 5.20 pm and ar- rives at Turkmenabat at 7.35 am next morning. Train 21 5.11.1 Nearby leaves Ashabat every second day at 10.10 pm, ans arrives at Mary at 5.25 and at Turkmenabat at 9.40 next morning. • Nissa, 15 km West of Ashgabat, settlement dating back to the 2nd cent BC By 4WD • Geok Depe, 50 km West of Ashgabat, site of Ashgabat is probably the best place to hire someone to the final battle between troops of Turmen and take you to Darvaza. Note that the trip requires going tsarist troops in 1881/84, Saparmurat Hags Mosque, off-road and is probably best not left to you average lada. erected by President Turkmenbashi Chapter 6

Geok-tepe

Geok-tepe is a city in Ahal Province, Turkmenistan. 6.5 Do

6.6 Buy 6.1 Understand 6.7 Eat Geok-tepe (“Green Hill”) was the site of the Turkmen’s last battle against the Russians. 6.8 Drink

6.2 Get in 6.9 Sleep

Geok-tepe is situated about 50 km west of Ashgabat, about halfway between Ashgabat and Bakharden. It is 6.10 Connect about 40 minutes by car from Ashgabat. 6.11 Go next

6.3 Get around

6.4 See

• Geok-tepe fortress is the site of the Turkmen’s last battle against the Russians in 1881. 10.000 Turkmen troops and 40.000 civilians were inside the fortrtess, when the Russian general Skobelev at- tacked Geok-tepe with 7.000 infantry and cavalry and 90 gun and rocket batteries. More than 15.000 Turkmen were killed in the battle and another 8.000 on the escape in the desert. It is reported that Gen- eral Skobelev commented the battle with the words: “The harder you hit them, the longer they remain quiet”. General Skobelev, who is called “the White General” in Russia, because he used to wear a white uniform and to ride on a white horse is called “Old Bloody Eyes” by the Turkmen. The battle of geok- depe is commemeraoted today as a public holiday on Jan 12th (“Remembrance Day”).

• The Saparmurat Hajji Mosque, a modern build- ing with blue domes, was erected after Turkmen- bashi’s pilgrimage to Mecca in the 1990’s.

24 Chapter 7

Jeitun

Jeitun is an archaeological site in Ahal Province, house had only one fireplace, it was designed for a sin- Turkmenistan. gle family and not for collective meals. The same layout designed for a nuclear family has been found in other set- tlements of Western Asia as well. 7.1 Understand The fact that the Neolithic settlements consisted of about 30 houses one room reveals the tendency of the nuclear Jeitun is situated about 30 km north of Ashgabat on a sand families to form larger units because of the economic ne- dune in the Kara Kum Desert. Jeitun is one of the old- cessity that arose from partial use of irrigation. The so- est archaeological sites in Turkmenistan. The settlement ciety of Jeitun was thus formed of nuclear families living dates back to the 7th cent. BC and is considered as the in kinship settlements that formed small tribes. first proof of agriculture in Central Asia. The excavations at Jeitun show that the Neolithic revolution in Central Asia took place almost simultaneously with similar develop- 7.5 Do ments in Western Asia. Jeitun was excavated from 1957 onwards by the Russian archaeologist V.M.Masson. 7.6 Buy

7.2 Get in 7.7 Eat

7.3 Get around 7.8 Drink

7.4 See 7.9 Sleep

Jeitun covers an area of about 5.000 square meters. It consits of free standing houses of an uniform ground plan. 7.10 Connect The houses were rectangular and had a large fireplace on one side and a niche facing it as well as adjacent yard areas. The floors were covered with lime plaster. The 7.11 Go next buildings were made of cylindrical clay blocks about 70 cm long and 20 cm thick. The clay was mixed with finely chopped straw. The settlement consisted of 30 to 35 sin- gle room houses. Each house is considered as home for 5 to 6 people. About 160 to 200 people could live here at the same time. They formed a tribal settlement and their economy seems to have been communal, not individual. The people of the Jeitun culture were growing barley and two sorts of wheat, which were harvested with wooden or bone knives or sickles with stone blades. At Jeitun blades were found in every house. It can be assumed that almost the entire population participated in farming. The settlement of Jeitun was built up of houses of one room only with an area of 15 to 30 square meters. Each

25 Chapter 8

Karakum

The Karakum (Black Sand) Desert is a large, mostly 8.2 Other destinations empty desert that takes up most of the central section of Turkmenistan. It is famous chiefly for one destination, the Derweze Gas Crater, also popularly known as the Door to Hell, an open pit lake of fire that has been burning for • The Mud Crater and the Water Crater, two more more than 40 years now. craters result of industrial accidents, just off the highway towards Ashgabat. Neither of these is as spectacular as star attraction Derweze, but they are an interesting diversion on the more than five hour drive from the capital. Unlike the Gas Crater, these two come with safety fencing. The Water Crater has a fun echo effect.

8.3 Understand

As the most remote part of one of the world’s most re- The Door to Hell from afar. mote countries, there’s basically one attraction here, and that’s the burning hole in the ground. The Door to Hell. itself, however, does not disappoint, 8.1 Villages and the sheer sight of this industrial disaster turned ac- cidental pyrotechnic wonder is well worth the five hour There are no cities in this vast and mostly empty quarter journey from Ashgabat. of the country, but there are a few small villages. The whole area is rich in natural gas and while drilling in 1971, Soviet geologists tapped into a cavern filled with • Some inhabitants of the village of Erbent, and pos- natural gas. The ground beneath the drilling rig collapsed, sibly some other villages, will prepare traditional leaving a large hole with a diameter of more than 70 m style meals for passing tourists. Talk to the tour (230 ft) and they decided the best solution was to flare the company or driver. gas. They hoped the fire would use all the fuel in a matter • There are a number of other smaller villages along of days, but the gas is still burning today, more than 42 the main highway through the desert, but don't ex- years later! pect these villages to have anything more than a ba- You might want to arrive during the daytime, when the sic store. If you've forgotten anything, find one of crater is impressive but not stunning, and then wait as these villages well before you get to the gas crater. night falls, when the Door to Hell erupts into a spectac- • The closest settlement to the crater itself (the former ular show. Camping just beyond the pit on the nearby settlement of Derweze has long been abandoned) is dunes is highly recommended. a tiny village named Aeroport. It does not have an There’s two other craters to see, and stopping in some of airport, or likely much in the way of services at all (it the desert villages can be fun, but these aren't worth the is extremely small) so don't count on getting anything trek on their own, and virtually every tourist who ventures there except possibly aid in an emergency. here comes for the Derweze crater.

26 8.6. GET AROUND 27

For those who are more a bit more adventurous or daring, it is possible to arrange a Derweze trip oneself, but it takes considerable work to make sure you end up with a safe trip. It probably helps to have Turkmen contacts who can point you to someone with the correct type of vehicle.

8.6 Get around

All getting around is done either in the vehicle you came in or on foot. There’s no public transport here!

The Derweze gas crater at night 8.7 See and Do

8.4 Talk Aside from the craters and Erbent, which given the diffi- culty of reaching them are more destinations than sights, there isn't much to actually see in the Karakum. Mostly Virtually everyone in the Karakum will speak nothing but just sit in the desert and marvel at the emptiness and in- Russian and Turkmen, making having a guide through the credible scenery. region all the more essential, particularly if you run into a health or safety issue. 8.8 Sleep 8.5 Get in There is no accommodation to be had in the desert except that which you bring yourself (or your tour group brings)– Getting into the Karakum desert itself isn't particu- a tent. There are no facilities of any kind at the gas crater, larly difficult–just follow the only highway North out of not even toilets. Ashgabat or South out of Konye Urgench. However, most people wishing to visit the Karakum intend to visit the gas crater, which involves somewhat more preparation. 8.9 Eat To visit the crater requires driving off-road on the loose sand for significant but not excessive distance. However, as such, the drive should not be undertaken by those without off-road experience, and doing so in a rental car (if you can get one) will almost certainly violate your contract. Moreover, the Ladas (well, nowadays they are mostly Toyota Camrys..) that rule the roads of Turk- menistan are ill-fit for the drive, it is better to stick with a 4WD. Thus for most visitors, it will make sense to stick with an official tour. For those who are in Turkmenistan on a prearranged tour, including those offered by well-known outfits Koryo Tours and Stan Tours, Derweze is naturally on the itinerary for most of them. Aside from the big names, Silk Road Adventures offers tours with a mere 12 hour notice from Ashgabat, but they Traditional fried bread served in Erbent do not offer an overnight option. Local company Ayan Travel offers a three day Derweze trip as well as a handful Most of the food you eat will come from one of two of desert tours that do not go to Derweze... perfect for sources: what you buy in the villages (which can be a those who don't just want to go off the beaten path, but home-cooked meal in Erbent) or what you bring in. Make want to leave paths behind altogether. sure to bring in enough food if you are coming indepen- Expect tours to be on the expensive side, but it is well dently; if you are on a tour feel free to bring additional worth it given the safety risks involved in organizing your supplies. If you are camping overnight at the fire pit, a own trip. barbecue is traditional and fun. 28 CHAPTER 8. KARAKUM

8.10 Drink Otherwise, most visitors have two choices, continue on the road or go back where they came from. Since Somewhat surprisingly, the full range of (Turkmen) alco- there’s only one real road, for all practical purposes this holic drinks is available at the village stores, so you can means your next stop will be either Ashgabat or Konye stock up and have a “beach ” at the lake of fire if you Urgench. would so like. In the villages you're most likely to get tea to drink, but you may also be offered the chance to try fermented camel’s milk, a traditional drink in the area and better- tasting than it sounds. You may also be offered raw camel’s milk, but be aware that people do get sick from it (the villagers should warn you as such when offering).

Camels in Erbent. Fermented camel milk is a traditional drink of the region.

Given that this is a desert, make sure to bring lots of water and drink it frequently.

8.11 Stay safe

Practice desert safety. Most of the transportation will likely be left to someone other than the traveller, but do remember to bring water and drink it frequently, and shade your head and eyes from the fierce sun. It cannot be stressed enough, make sure you have a ve- hicle that can handle the terrain. If you're going any- where off the highway, hire a 4WD. Note that the gas crater itself does not have safety features of any kind. Always stay at least 1 metre away from the edge, as the ground has been known to crumble. The pit has grown since it first appeared in 1971.

8.12 Go next

It’s halfway across the world, but if your curiosity has been piqued about indefinitely burning underground fires, Centralia, Pennsylvania, USA is the only other place you can see something similar, although that fire is buried in a coal mine, not roaring in an open pit. Chapter 9

Nissa

Nissa is an archaeological site in Ahal Province, Since 1990 it is excavated by the University of Torino, Turkmenistan. Italy (Centro Scavi di Torino) . In 2007, the fortresses of Nissa were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

9.1 Understand 9.2 Get in

The Parthian Fortresses of Nisa are located 15 km southwest of Ashgabat near the village of Bagir in the Akhal District of Turkmenistan. , marshrutkas and taxis depart from the western side of Teke Bazaar in Ash- gabat. The ride in a minibus to Old Nisa costs USD0.20. The cost of bus ticket is 0.20 TMT. With public transport it is only possible to reach Bagir village. From a roundabout in the centre of the village it is pleasant 2 km walk uphill to Old Nisa and the same distance to New Nisa.

9.3 Get around Fortress ruins

Nissa is one of the most important sites of the Parthian The site is small enough to explore it conveniently on foot. Empire. The Parthians ruled in Persia from 247 BC to 228 AD. They defeated the Seleucids (successors of Alexander the Great) and conquered great parts of the 9.4 See Middle East and southwest Asia. The earliest settlements in the area of Nissa date back to • Partian Fortresses of Nissa. 8am to 6pm. (Old the 4th millenium BC. In the 3rd century BC the Parthi- Nisa and New Nisa) US$ 1. ans built an impressive fortress at Old Nisa and erected a royal residence, which probably was the first royal resi- • Old Nisa is a natural hill, about 14 ha wide, sur- dence of the Parthian kings. The city was named Mithra- rounded by high defensive earthen ramparts with 40 datkert (fortress of Mithradates) during the reign of King rectangular towers, The top of the hill was flattened Mithradates the Great (174-138 BC). Greek sources refer and levelled with layers of earth. Number and lo- to the city as administrative and economic centre during cation of gates have not yet been identified. It is the reign of the Arsacid dynasty. The Arsacid dynasty presumed that the main (and perhaps the only) en- conquered a huge area from the Indus to the Euphrates trances was at the center of the western part of the and Nisa became an important city on the crossroads of surrounding wall. The fortress constist of a Northern many cultures from Persia, Greece and Central Asia. Complex and a Central Complex.

New Nisa was conquered by the Arabian Caliphate in the • The Northern Complex includes the so-called large 7th century and became part of the Seljuk Empire in the square building in which the royal treasury, wine 11th century. vaults and auxiliary buildings have been identified. Archaeological research at the site began in the 1930s. In this area, the most famous pieces of art of Old

29 30 CHAPTER 9. NISSA

Nisa, as the Rodogoune marble statue, the God- 9.11 Go next dess of Nisa marble statue, elaborate ivory rhythons (drinking vessels), fragments of royal thrones and more than 2000 pieces of ceramics (ostraka) repre- senting house keeping documents were discovered.

• The Central Complex consists of a Building with the Square Hall, a Building with the Round Hall, a Tower-like Building, a North-Eastern Building and a Columned Hall. The Building with the Square Hall is the most important building of the Cen- tral Complex. It covers an area of about 1.000 square meters and has walls up to 5 meters thick. The North-Eastern Building consist of two decorated yards and rooms for domestic uses. It is considered as the palace of the Arsacid dynasty. The Tower- like Building has a massive aquare base of 20 by 20 meters. It is encircled by two rows of dark corri- dors, lit by narrow windows. The upper parts show traces of architectural decor and wall paintings de- picting battle scenes. It houses a small museum of paintings and architectural elements. The Building with the Round Hall is a square building with a round hall of 17 meters in diameter. The building served religious purposes, it is, however, unclear if it was a temple, a mausoleum or the shrine of a hero. The Columned Hall consists of a large rectangular hall with four columns in the middle and served cere- monial purposes.

• New Nisa is located about 1,5 km north-west of Old Nisa. The tell with a surface of about 25 ha is sur- rounded on all sides by powerful walls with a height up to 9 meters. It has two entrances (one from Bagyr village and one from the North West). In Parthian times, the city was divided into two parts, the upper city (ark) and the lower city (shakhristan). The lay- out clearly indicates a densely populated town. The Parthian buildings are interpreted as remains of the fortress, burial houses and storehouses.

9.5 Do

9.6 Buy

9.7 Eat

9.8 Drink

9.9 Sleep

9.10 Connect Chapter 10

Balkan Province

Balkan Province is the western region of Turkmenistan, 10.7 Do spanning the western Karakum and much of the Caspian Basin. 10.8 Eat

10.1 Cities 10.9 Drink

• Balkanabat — an oil and gas center at the foot of the Balkan Daglary mountains. 10.10 Stay safe • Esenguly — a small remote at the southwest of the region on the Caspian Sea. 10.11 Go next • Garabogaz — a town at the narrow strait separat- ing the gigantic Garabogaz Lagoon from the Caspian Sea. • Gazandzhyk — a railway town. • Gyzyletrek — a small border town on a rarely trav- eled road to Gorgan, Iran. • — small railway town. • Serdar — a medium-sized city northwest of Ashgabat. • Turkmenbashi — Turkmenistan’s port on the Caspian, with a few beach hotels.

10.2 Other destinations

• Dakhistan — the ruins of an impossibly remote Silk Road city, home to Shir-Kabir mausoleum.

10.3 Understand

10.4 Get in

10.5 Get around

10.6 See

31 Chapter 11

Balkanabat

Balkanabat is a city in Balkan Province, Turkmenistan. • Dekhistan. In medieval times rivalling Merv and Konye Urgench. Today only ruins of two minarets and of the oldest mosque in the country remain. Ex- pect to pay US $50 for the round trip per taxi includ- 11.1 Understand ing waiting time

Balkanabat may serve as a stopover on the trip from • Tarshavat (38 km from Balkanabat). The pic- Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi and as starting point for ex- turesque ruins of the Tarshavat caravanserai stand cursions to Dekhistan and the Yangykala Canyon. on one of the ancient caravan routes on the Silk Road. The caravanserai is a rectangular building with a stone wall and ruins of residential buildings 11.2 Get in inside. • Shir Kabir Mausoleum (6 km from Dekhistan). 11.2.1 By plane Dating from the 9th and 10th cent. Shir Kabir is one of the oldest surviving mosques on the territory of Turkmenistan. It has a unique mikhrab consisting Turkmenistan Airlines offers flights from Ashgabat to of three niches one inside the other. Balkanabat on Tue, Thu and Sat (US $11). Balkanabat airport is 2 km east of the city. 11.4 See 11.2.2 By train • Regional History Museum, Gurgteli Annayew Turkmenistan Railways operate two trains per day from köcesi, ☎ +993 222 49126. US $1.25. Turkmenbashi and two trains from Ashgabat. The rail- • Russian Orthodox Church. way station is 1 km west of the central Niyaziv Square.

11.2.3 By bus 11.5 Do

The trip from Ashgabat takes about 6 hours. Marshrutkas 11.6 Buy and shared taxis cost about US $2 or 3, taxis approx. US $15. They arrive in front of the train station. • Balkanabat Carpet Factory, Azady köcesi. Mon to Frin 9AM to 6PM. 11.3 Get around 11.7 Eat • Gozli Ata (135 km north of Balkanabat). Mau- soleum of a highly respected Sufi teacher, today a • Kafe Ruslan, Kvartal 201 (west of the city center), very popular place of pilgrimage ☎ +993 222 40740.

• Yangykala Canyon. one of the most spectacular natural attractions in Central Asia, 165 km north of 11.8 Drink Balkhanabat, 160 km east of Turkmenbashi

32 11.11. GO NEXT 33

11.9 Sleep

• Hotel Nebitchi, Kvartal 198, ☎ +993 222 45335. five star hotel, all rooms with satellite TV, excellent restaurants dbl US $100.

• Hotel Balkan, Kvartal 225, ☎ +993 222 43293. US $30 to 60.

11.10 Connect

11.11 Go next

11.11.1 By plane

Turkmenistan Airlines offers flight from Balkanabat to Ashgabat on Tue, Thu and Sat (US $11). Balkanabat air- port is 2 km east of the city.

11.11.2 By train

Turkmenistan Railways operate two trains per day to Turkmenbashi and two trains to Ashgabat. The railway station is 1 km west of the central Niyaziv Square.

11.11.3 By bus

The trip to Ashgabat takes about 6 hours. Marshrutkas and shared taxis cost about US $2 or 3, taxis approx. US $15. They leave in front od the train station. Chapter 12

Turkmenbashi

Turkmenbashi, formerly known as Krasnovodsk, is in leaves Ashgabat at 8:10PM daily, arriving at Turkmen- Balkan Province, Turkmenistan. bashi next morning at 9:15AM. Train 24 leaves Ashgabat at 8:40PM every second day, arriving at Turkmenbashi next morning at 6:55AM. 12.1 Understand 12.2.3 By car In 1717, Russian Prince Alexander Bekovich-Cherkassky landed and established a secret fortified settlement on this From Kazakhstan location, where the dry bed of a former mouth of the Amu-Darya River once emptied into the Caspian Sea. It is a two hours’ drive from Zhanaozen to the Turk- His intent was to march an army up this dry riverbed and menistan border and another 40 minutes drive from the conquer the . The expedition failed, border on a dirt road to the city of Karabogas (formerly and the Russians abandoned the settlement for over 150 Bekdash) (approx. US$ 50 per car). From Karabogas years. there is a good road to Turkmenbashi with fine views In 1869, the Russians made a second and latest attempt. on the Caspian Sea. About 60 km south of Karabogas They named their fort Krasnovodsk (Красноводск), the road crosses a bridge over the channel connecting the which is the Russian version of the original name, Kyzyl- Caspian Sea with the inland gulf. Su (Red Water). Krasnovodsk was Imperial Russia’s base of operations against Khiva and Bukhara, and the no- madic Turkmen tribes. It fell to the Red Army in Febru- within Turkmenistan ary, 1920. In 1993 Krasnovodsk was renamed “Turkmenbashi” Turkmenbashi is about 560 km from Ashgabat. Many would assume that the city was renamed on behalf of Niyazov’s self-proclaimed title “Turkmenbashi” mean- ing “The leader of Turkmens” yet the rationale behind re- 12.2.4 By bus naming is to denote that Turkmenbashi is the place from where Turkmens spring. Turkmen meaning the Turkmen 12.2.5 By boat and bashi - the start, spring. There are boats across the Caspian Sea to Baku, Azerbaijan. The journey takes 12 to 18 hours and a seat 12.2 Get in costs about 50 US$. There are several boats weekly, but there is no fixed timetable. Consider that ships might be delayed and that your visa could expire in this time. 12.2.1 By plane Bring along you own food and water. See warnng on the Turkmenistan page! Turkmenbashi is connected by Turkmenistan Airlines flights to Ashgabat, capital of Turkmenistan. 12.3 Get around 12.2.2 By train The local bus station is at Balkan köcesi, about 500 meters Turkmenbashi is the western extent of the Trans-Caspian west of the Museum of Regional History. Taxi drives Railway. Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan Zeleznice) within the town cost about 3000 M and 5000 M to Awaza runs trains from Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi. Train 606 (10 km north of Turkmenbashi).

34 12.10. CONNECT 35

12.4 See 12.9.1 Budget

• Museum of Regional History, Rylov köcesi. Tue 12.9.2 Mid-range to Sun 9AM to 6PM. exhibits of the nomadic life of the Turkmen people US$ 0.10. • Hotel Turkmenbashi, Hazar köcesi (2 km west of the railway station), ☎ +993 243 2130104, fax: • Russian Orthodox Church. +993 243 21317. higher rates from Jun to Sep US$ 50-75. • Japanese Memorial (near the airport). Memorial for thousands of Japanese prisoners of war who con- structed roads and buildings here during the Second World War 12.9.3 Splurge

• Hotel Sedar, Awaza (10 km north of Turkmen- 12.5 Do bashi), ☎ +993 243 21581, +993 243 51225, e-mail: [email protected]. one of the most beautiful ho- tels in Turkmenistan, higher rates from Jun to Sep • swimming at Awaza (8 km north of the city). dbl US$ 100. • Awaza , Awaza (Awaza). Awaza is resort place which hosts tens of hotels and sea beaches. In the evenings laser shows are held to entertain the 12.10 Connect populations and guests. Turkenistan Airlines office, Rylov köcesi, near Hotel Hazar, phone 75474 or 75804. 12.6 Buy

• Bagtygul Bazaar, Magtymguly sayoli. Buy caviar 12.11 Stay safe for US$ 22 per half kilo 12.12 Cope 12.7 Eat 12.13 Go next 12.7.1 Budget

• Deniz Patisserie Cafe, Azadi köcesi, ☎ +993 243 12.13.1 By plane 14254, +993 243 25653. 8AM to 10PM. Turkish cafe, about 1 km and a half from the Hotel Hazar Turkmenbashi is connected by Turkmenistan Airlines US$ 1 to 2. flights to Ashgabat, capital of Turkmenistan. The airport is 8 km out of town. Flights to Ashgabat and Dashoguz • Altyn Asir Kafe, Gahryman Atamurat Niyazov cost US$ 11 to 12. köcesi, ☎ +993 243 20752. 12AM to 11PM. Rus- sian restaurant US$ 1 to 2. 12.13.2 By train • Altyn Balik Restaurant, Bahri-Hazar köcesi, ☎ Turkmenbashi is the western extent of the Trans-Caspian +993 243 77405. 12AM to 11PM. US$ 1 to 2. Railway. Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan Zeleznice) runs trains from Turkmenbashi to Ashgabat. Train 12.7.2 Mid-range 605 leaves Turkmenbashi at 4:05PM daily, arriving in Ashgabat next morning at 5:50AM. Train 23 leaves Turkmenbashi at 7:30PM every second day, arriving in 12.7.3 Splurge Ashgabat next morning at 5:20AM. A seat (second class, kupe) costs US$ 1.20. Rail service information has phone 12.8 Drink 99462.

12.9 Sleep 12.13.3 By car 36 CHAPTER 12. TURKMENBASHI

To Khazakhstan

Go north from Turkmenbashi to Karabogas on a good road with fine views on the Caspian Sea. The last part is a 40 minutes drive from the border on a dirt road to the city of Karabogas (formerly Bekdash). From the Turk- menistan border it is a two hours’ drive to Zhanaozen in Kazakhstan. within Turkmenistan

Turkmenbashi is about 560 km from Ashgabat.

12.13.4 By bus

Shared taxis to Ashgabat and Balkanabat leave in front of the railway station, Atamurat Noyazov köcesi. The trip to Ashgabat takes 6 hours and costs about US$ 8 per seat or US$ 25 for the whole car. Shared taxis go north to the Kazakhstan border. They stop at Zhanaozen (Novy Uzen). The trip takes 7 hours and costs approx. US$ 40 per car.

12.13.5 By boat

There are boats across the Caspian Sea to Baku, Azerbaijan. The journey takes 12 to 18 hours and a seat costs about 50 US$. There are several boats daily, but there is no fixed timetable. Consider that ships might be delayed and that your visa could expire in this time. Bring along your own food and water. Chapter 13

Dashoguz Province

Dashoguz Province is in northern Turkmenistan. 13.12 Go next

13.1 Cities

• Dashoguz — the major city of the north and third largest in the country, with the airport receiving travelers going to Konye-Urgench as well as a good amount of large Soviet monuments. • Konye Urgench — a small town home to the UNESCO World Heritage site Urgench, which con- tains the unexcavated ruins of the twelfth-century capital of Khwarezm.

13.2 Other destinations

13.3 Understand

13.4 Talk

13.5 Get in

13.6 Get around

13.7 See

13.7.1 Itineraries

13.8 Do

13.9 Eat

13.10 Drink

13.11 Stay safe

37 Chapter 14

Daşoguz

Daşoguz is a city in Dashoguz Province, Turkmenistan 14.3 Get around near the Uzbek border. • Konye Urgench

14.1 Understand • Izmukshir, 25 km Southwest of Dashoguz, birth- place of one of the greatest philosophers of the Mid- Dasoguz is a town mainly from Soviet times. It has an dle Ages, Az-Zamahshari airport and serves as a starting point for the visit of Konye Urgench, the capital of one of the most important empires in Central Asia, Khoresm, and as transit point for Urgench 14.4 See and Khiva in Uzbekistan.

• Dinosaur sculptures in the town centre

14.2 Get in • Bai Bazaar, colourful market

14.2.1 By plane

Turkmenistan Airlines operates 6 flights per day from 14.5 Do Ashgabat and 4 flights per week from Turkmenbashi. The flight from Ashgabat takes about 50 minutes and costs 14.6 Buy about US$ 12 one way. The airport is 14km south of the city. 14.7 Eat 14.2.2 By bus • Shatugi, Alkaramzi köcesi 6, ☎ +993 322 59742. There are regular bus services from Ashgabat (12 to 18 behind Hotel Diyarbekir, Russian food hours, US$ 4 to 5 one way) and infreqent services from Turkmenabat (10 hours, US$ 3 to 4). The bus station is in the north of the city, near Bai Bazar. There are regular 14.8 Drink buses from Konye Urgench (2 hours, US$ 1).

14.2.3 By train 14.9 Sleep

There is one train per day from Ashgabat (24 hours, US$ • Hotel Dashogus, Turkmenbashi sayoli 5. hotel 3) and one from Konye Urgench (2 hours, US$ 1). The from Soviet times US$ 8-16. railway station is on Woksai köcesi, about 600 metres east of Gurbansoltan köcesi. • Hotel Uzboy, Turkmenbasho sayoli 19/1, ☎ +993 322 26015. the newest hotel in town US$30-50.

14.2.4 By car • Hotel Diyarbekir, Turkmenbashi sayoli, ☎ +993 322 59037. modern hotel under Turkish manage- Dashoguz is about 480 km from Ashgabat and 100 km ment, restaurant with Russian and traditional Turk- from Konye Urgench. men food US$ 40-80.

38 14.11. GO NEXT 39

14.10 Connect

14.11 Go next

14.11.1 By plane

Turkmenistan Airlines operates 6 flights per day to Ashgabat and 4 flights per week to Turkmenbashi. The flight to Ashgabat takes about 50 minutes and costs about US$ 12 one way. The airport is 14km south of the city.

14.11.2 By bus

There are regular bus services toAshgabat (12 to 18 hours, US$ 4 to 5 one way) and infreqent services toTurkmenabat (10 hours, US$ 3 to 4). The bus station is in the north of the city, near Bai Bazar. There are regular buses toKonye Urgench (2 hours, US$ 1).

14.11.3 By train

There is one train per day toAshgabat (24 hours, US$ 3) and one to Konye Urgench (2 hours, US$ 1). The rail- way station is on Woksai köcesi, about 600 metres east of Gurbansoltan köcesi.

14.11.4 By car

Dashoguz is about 480 km from Ashgabat and 100 km from Konye Urgench. Chapter 15

Konye Urgench

Konye Urgench is a city in Dashoguz Province, The Arabic traveller of the 1300s, Ibn Batuta, described Turkmenistan. Konye Urgench as the 'biggest among the Turkish cities with broad streets and splendid bazaars’. The main part of the magnificent monuments in Konye Urgench were built 15.1 Understand during the reign of Kutlug Timur and his wife Tyurabek- khanym. In the 14th century the city was destroyed by the troops of Timur. Konye Urgench was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005.

15.2 Get in

15.2.1 By plane

Turkmenistan Airlines operates several daily flights from Ashgabat to Dashoguz.

15.2.2 By bus or taxi The Tekesh Mausoleum There are frequent buses and marschrutki from Ashgabat (US$4, 10 to 12 hours) and from Dashogus (US$ 0.50, The town was called Gurgandzh from the 10th century 2 hours). Taxis from Ashgabat cost about US$6 per seat AD onwards and is now called Konye Urgench (Old Ur- or US$ 24 for the whole car, from Dashogus US$ 0.75 gench), as the inhabitants moved to modern Urgench in per seat or US$ 3.50 for the whole car. The bus station Uzbekistan in the 17th century. is outside town, near the Gürgenc Hotel. From there you Konye Urgench was built on the crossing of two major will need a taxi to the town centre. caravan routes from the south to the Volga in the north- west and from the west to China in the east. From the 1st century AD onwards Konye Urgench was an impor- 15.2.3 By car tant trade centre on the Northern branch of the Silk Road leading to the Caspian Sea and Russia. Around 1000 Konye Urgench is about 100 km from Dashoguz and 480 Emir Mamun unified the country of Khwarezm and made km from Ashgabat. Konye Urgench its capital. In the 10th cent. Urgench was the capital of the powerful Khwarezm state which occu- pied the whole area of the Amu Darya delta in Northern 15.3 Get around Turkmenistan and Western Uzbekistan. Konye Urgench became one of the centres of the Islamic There is no public transport in Konye Urgench. The world and was called “the heart of Islam” and “the cap- sights of Konye Urgench are spread over the town. A ital of thousand wise men”. Great scholars as Al Biruni taxi to the most distant monuments (Turabeg Khanym (Abu Reikhan Biruni) and Avicenna (Abu Ali Ibn Sina) Mausoleum, Sultan Tekesh Mausoleum, Kyrk Molla and lived here. After its conquest by the Mongols in the 13th Il-Arslan Mausoleum) and back will cost about US$2 in- century, the city became an important trade centre again. cluding waiting time.

40 15.5. DO 41

15.4 See form of a tent and the facade of the monument with a pattern of bricks are the first of this type and were • Nedjameddin Kubra Mausoleum was built in the the prototype for similar buildings in Samarkand. 14th century It is considered as the holiest place in Konye Urgench. Nedjameddin Kubra lived in the • Minaret of Mamum. The minaret of the 10th to 12th/13th centuries. He was born in Khiva and be- 11th cent. collapsed about 100 years ago. The foun- came a famous religious teacher known as 'designer dation slab was found indicating that the minaret was of saints’. He left several treatises on mystic expe- constructed by order of Shah Mamun. riences, founded an important Sufic order and was killed by the Mongols. • Ib-Khadzhib Madrasa. 14th to 16th cent. • Konye Urgench Museum in the modern Dash • Mausoleum of Fakhr ad-Din Razi. 13th cent. mosque ( US$1, 8AM to 1PM, 2PM to 4PM closed Tue). Some rooms contain ethnographic exhibits in- • Mausoleum of Azizan Al-Ramatani. 13th to 14th cluding a pottery workshop and carpet looms. cent.

The most interesting monuments are on both sides the • Mausoleum of Seid Ahmed. 12th to 14th cent. Ashgabat road about 1 km south of the town. Admission is US$ 1, camera US§ 0.70, open from 08:00 to 18:00. • Mausoleum of Piryarveli. 13th cent.

• Turabeg Khanum Mausoleum is one of Central • Mausoleum of Gulidergan. 12th cent. Asia’s most beautiful buildings. It was built in the 14th cent by Kutlug Timur for his wife Turabeg • Mauseoleum of Khorezimbag. 13th to 18th cent. Khanum. It’s portal with a height of 21 metres high and a breadth of 14 metres is richly decorated with • Mausoleum of Dashgala. 14th to 16th cent. majolicas. The central building measuring about 100 square metres is also ornamented with colourful • Mausoleum of Matkarim Ishan. 19th to 20th tiles. The interior of the dome (height: 20 metres) cent. shows 365 stars symbolizing the days of the year, 12 open and 12 closed arches symbolize the hours • Mausoleum of Sultan Ali. 16th cent. of day and night, 12 bigger arches symbolize the 12 months and 4 big windows the four seasons. • Mausoleum of Dashmedzhet. 20th cent. • Kutlug Timur Mínaret was begun in the 11th cen- tury and finished in the 14th century unter Kutlug • Ak Kala Fortress. 1st to 13th cent. Timur. It was the minaret of the main mosque in Konye Urgench. With a height of 60 metres, it is • Izmukshir. The ancient city of Zamakshar with the highest minaret in Central Asia. The minaret magnificent fortress ruins was the birthplace of the is divided by 18 belts with an ornament and 3 belts great 10th cent. philosopher Az-Zamakshari with Kufi inscriptions. • Dashmechet Madrasah (80 m East of the • Sultan Tekish Mausoleum is the mausoleum of Nadzhimetdin Kuvra Mausoleum). The Madrasah Sultan Tekish, shah of Khorezm in the 12th century, was erected in the beginning of the 20th cent. It who conquered a huge territory from the Aral Sea is a one storey brick building with a high portal, 4 the Persian Gulf and from what is today Iran to the towers and 19 living rooms for the students. Pamir. This mausoleum is one of the few monu- ments in Konye Urgench surviving from pre-Mongol times. The dome was richly decorated with blue tiles and geometrical patterns. The mausoleum was 30 15.5 Do metres high and serves both as a lighthouse in the desert and as a symbol of authority (as it stood high above ordinary houses). 15.6 Buy • Kerk Mollah (Hill of the 40 mullahs) is one of the best known places of pilgrimage in Turkmenistan. 15.7 Eat • Il-Arshan Mausoleum is Konye Urgench’s oldest surviving monument. It contains the grave of Il Ar- • Bedev Cafe, Azadi köcesi, ☎ 21044. 07:00 to slan, the father of Sultan Tekish. The dome in the 21:00. US$ 3. 42 CHAPTER 15. KONYE URGENCH

15.8 Drink

15.9 Sleep

• Gürgench Hotel, Dashogus Köcesi (out of town). no running water, pit toilets outside US$ 6.

• Chapayev Guesthouse (on the road between the town and the Uzbekistan border post, not signposted), ☎ no phone. only recommended if you have your own transport US$ 2.50.

There is no comfortable hotel in Konye Urgench. It is better to stay overnight at Dashoguz.

15.10 Connect

15.11 Go next

15.11.1 By plane

Turkmenistan Airlines operates several daily flights from Dashoguz to Ashgabat.

15.11.2 By bus or taxi

The bus station is outside town, near the Gürgenc Hotel. You will need a taxi from the town centre to the bus sta- tion. There are frequent buses and marschrutki to Ashgabat (US$4, 10 to 12 hours) and to Dashoguz (US$ 0.50, 2 hours). Taxis to Ashgabat cost about US$6 per seat or US$ 24 for the whole car, to Dashoguz US$ 0.75 per seat or US$ 3.50 for the whole car. Chapter 16

Lebap Province

Lebap Province is a very sparsely populated province of 16.11 Stay safe Turkmenistan along the Amu Darya River, forming the country’s eastern boundary with Uzbekistan. 16.12 Go next

16.1 Cities

• Kerki — a remote town on the Amu Darya.

• Turkmenabad — the largest city in the region, on the road to Bukhara.

16.2 Other destinations

• Kugitang Nature Reserve

• Repetek Nature Reserve, famed for its zemzen, or desert crocodiles.

16.3 Understand

16.4 Talk

16.5 Get in

16.6 Get around

16.7 See

16.7.1 Itineraries

16.8 Do

16.9 Eat

16.10 Drink

43 Chapter 17

Kugitang Nature Reserve

Kugitang Nature Reserve is in Lebap Province, (Arkhar in Turkmen), 100 wild cats. Occasionally Per- Turkmenistan, near Kerki. sian leopards have been seen in the reserve.

17.1 Understand 17.1.4 Climate

The Kugitang Nature Reserve is situated on the west slope Average annual precipitation is about 400 mm, rising up of the Kugitang Mountains on the border to Uzbekistan. to 800 mm on the top of the mountains. Mud floods and It covers an area of 27.140 ha. The name Kugitang land slides may occure in spring. (Koyentag in Turkmen) means 'almost impassable moun- tains’. The area was declared nature reserve in order to protect the unique ecosystem of the mountain range and the rare capra falconeri, a wild mountain goat included in 17.2 Get in the Red Data Book of Convention of International Trade of Endangered Species CITES . Turkmenistan Airlines operates flights from Ashgabat to The most striking feature of the Kugitang Nature Reserve Turkmenabat (Chardjou) daily. Flying time is approxi- is the Dinosaur Plateau with more than 400 footprints mately 1 hour. You will need to ask a travel agent to or- of dinosaurs, about 150 million years old. The footprints ganise the trip, who will get you the border zone permit were left by a dinosaur species called Magalosauripus in and provide a driver. the Jurassic period. (please note the pages on the website listed below are as much as ten years out of date!) 17.1.1 History Stantours offers a 6 day trekking tour to the Kugitang Mountains starting in and to Ashgabat and ending in The Kugitang Nature Reserve was created nature reserve Turkmenabat. After a one hour flight from Ashgabat in 1986. to Atamyrat (Kerki) and a three hour car ride you will climb to the Dinosaur Plateau, visit the Grotto of the Forty Maidens at Kyrk Gyz Gorge and camp in the Gozel Gyzer 17.1.2 Landscape Canyon. On the next day you will hike to the Maydan base camp and watch wildlife. Then you will ascent the The highest mountain of Turkmenistan Air Baba (3137 Ayrybaba, the highest mountain in Turkmenistan (3.137 meters) is situated in the nature reserve. The area con- meters) . After a visit of the Kugitang Caves you will stists of a great number of deep canyons. The Hodjachil- camp on the Lake Koytenkol and finally return by car to gazbaba Canyon is 28 kilometers long and the walls of Atamyrat (Kerki) and by train to Turkmenabat . the Daraya Canyon are up to 600 meters high. It is about 6 hours by car from Turkmenabat to the Re- serve. 17.1.3 Flora and fauna

The upper parts of the mountains are covered by walnut, maple, juniper ans wilde grape forests. The nature re- 17.3 Fees/Permits serve was established for the protection of the wild moun- tain goat (called Markhor in Turkmen). It is reported that You will need a special permit in order to visit a nature their number has increased to 500 after the creation of reserve, and it will be necessary to apply for it through a the reserve. There are also about 300 mountain sheep travel agent well in advance.

44 17.11. STAY SAFE 45

17.4 Get around 17.10.2 Camping

17.10.3 Backcountry 17.5 See

• Hodjachilgazbaba Canyon, 28 kilometers long 17.11 Stay safe • Daraya Canyon with walls up to 600 meters high, 17.12 Go next • Aira Baba peak, highest mountain of Turkmenistan, 3137 meters, Turkmenistan Airlines operates flights from Atamyrat (Kerki) to Ashgabat daily except Mon. Flying time is • Um-bar Depe Canyon with a waterfall 28 meters 1 hour 50 minutes. It is about 6 hours by car from the high, Reserve to Turkmenabat • Plateau of Dinosaurs with more than 400 foot- prints of dinosaurs on a steep limestone slope. The largest of these footsteps has a diameter of 80 cen- timeters. According to the legend the footprints were left by elephants used by the armies of Alexan- der the Great. The footprints were left on the bot- tom of a shallow lake. When the lake dried up, the footprints baked in the sun. Later, a volcanic erup- tion sealed them in lava. The giant dinosaurs were accompanied by smaller ones whose footprints are similar to a human foot.

• Kainar Baba sulphur spring

• Kyrk Gyz Cave (Forty Girls Cave), one of the most revered pilgrimage shrines in Turkmenistan.

• Kaptykan (Kap Kutan) Cave, part of the most exten- sive network of limestone caves in Central Asia. The caves were already mentionned by the Greek geog- rapher Diodorus Siculus They were used by smug- glers in the 18th and 19th centuries and explored by Soviet geologists Yalkapov and Maltsev. The first hall of the Kaptykan Cave is known as 'Fa- ther Christmas and Snow Maiden' because of the two huge figures formed by the stalactites and sta- lagmites.

17.6 Do

17.7 Buy

17.8 Eat

17.9 Drink

17.10 Sleep

17.10.1 Lodging Chapter 18

Türkmenabat

Türkmenabat is a city in Lebap Province, 18.2.5 Within Turkmenistan Turkmenistan. Marshrutki arrive at the bus station, 9km south of town, near Dunya Bazaar, or at the railway station in the town center. 18.1 Understand

Turkmenabat is the center of Eastern Turkmenistan and 18.3 Get around second largest city in the country with about 270,000 in- habitants. Originally it was called Charjou (four canals), but in 1999 was renamed Turkmenabat (created by Turk- • Repetek Nature Reserve (70 km south west of men). The city is a convenient place for a stopover on the Turkmenabat). was founded in 1927 for the preser- long to the Kugitang Nature Reserve, Mary/Merv vation and study of fauna and flora in the Western or Dashogus and on the way to Bukhara/Uzbekistan. Kara Kum desert. It covers an area of 34.600 ha and was declared International Biospherical Reserve in 1979. The reserve contains a herbarium with 100 plants growing in the reserve and 1000 plants from 18.2 Get in other . The herbarium is a gift of the National Museum of Herbarium of the 18.2.1 By plane USA. The reserve has a small Nature Museum with stuffed animals, birds and reptiles.

Turkmenistan Airways operate 4 daily flights from • Dayahattin Kervansaray (170 km north of Turk- Ashgabat (US$ 12). The airport is 2 km east of the city menabat on the road to Dashogus). is the best pre- center. served medieval kervansaray in Turkmenistan. It dates from the 11th century and was abandoned in the 16th century. It is square in plan, the walls be- 18.2.2 By rail ing more than 50 meters long. Some parts keep text fragments with the names of the caliphs Abubakr, Turkmenistan Railways run trains to Turkmenabat from Omar and Ali. Ashgabat (2 trains per day, 16 hours, US$ 2.50), Mary/Merv (2 trains per day, 7 hours, US$ 1) and • Amu Darya Nature Reserve Museum, Seydi (one Turkmenbashi (1 train per day, 23 hours, US$ 2.50). The hour’s drive north of Turkmenabat). 10-12am, 3- railway station is in the city center. 5pm. exhibits stuffed animals, as the rare Bukhara deer or the goitred gazelle (jieran). 3000M.

• Amul' Settlement (10 km from the city center). In 18.2.3 By bus or taxi the 10th cent. the settlement was a fortress sur- rounded by a wide moat filled with water and with 18.2.4 From Uzbekistan gates on all four side, safeguarded by warriors day and night. Take a taxi from Bukhara to the border (US$ 8) at Farab or a shared taxi to Uzbek Olot (Qarakul) and then a taxi • Allamberdar Mausoleum. The mausoleum of Al- to the border. From the border it is about 45 km to Turk- lamberdar (Almutasir) dates from the 11th cent. menabat. A taxi should cost about US$ 5 and a seat in a It is the largest of the early buildings in Northern shared taxi less than US$ 1. Khurasan.

46 18.10. CONNECT 47

• Astana-baba Mausoleum. The mausoleum dates • Hotel Turkmenabat, Magtymguy sayoli, ☎ 60226. back to the 11th and 12th cent. The complex US$ 45 per person. includes the mausoleums of Zed-Ali and Zuveid- Ali. According to the legend the ruler of medieval Khurasan had a beautiful daughter, who died soon 18.10 Connect after her wedding. The mourning father asked the best masters from Merv and Samarkand to built a beautiful mausoleum, but the mausoleum collapsed 18.11 Go next immediately after it had been built. A short time later, the father had a dream. An old man advised 18.11.1 By plane him to built the mausoleum from clay and with wa- ter brought from Mecca. Soon the mausoleum was Turkmenistan Airways operate 4 daily flights to Ashgabat completed and after his death the father was buried (US$ 12). The airport is 2 km east of the city center. next to his daughter.

18.11.2 By rail 18.4 See Turkmenistan Railways run trains from Turkmenabat • Lebap Regional Museum, Shaidakov köcesi 35. to Ashgabat (2 trains per day, 16 hours, US$ 2.50), Mon to Sat 9am-1pm, 2-6pm. has an ethnographic Mary/Merv (2 trains per day, 7 hours, US$ 1) and section with a yurt and a diorama of a silversmith Turkmenbashi (1 train per day, 23 hours, US$ 2.50). The workshop. US$ 0,20. railway station is in the city center. • Russian Orthodox Church, Magtymguly sayoli. 18.11.3 By bus or taxi

18.5 Do Marshrutki leave from in front of the railway station in the town center. They cost about US$2 to Mary/Merv, US$ 4 to Ashgabat and US$ 1 to the Uzbek border (2007). 18.6 Buy

• Zelyoni Bazaar (Green Bazaar). • Dunya Bazaar (8 km south of the city center).

18.7 Eat

• Restaurant Lebap, Puskin köcesi, ☎ 63521. 9am- 11pm. US$ 2. • Restaurant Vostok, Shaidakov köcesi. US$ 1. • Restaurant Traktir, Arsarybaba köcesi 14, ☎ 61438. 11am-11pm. US$ 2.

18.8 Drink

18.9 Sleep

• Hotel Amu Darja, Nijazov köcesi 14 (opposite the railway station), ☎ 22434. US$ 15 to 60. • Hotel Chardjou, Shaidakov köcesi (in the city cen- ter). US$ 15-30. • Hotel Lebapgurlushyk, Magtymguly sayoli 51A, ☎ 44420, 444104. US$ 6 per person. Chapter 19

Mary Province

Mary Province is in the southeast of Turkmenistan. 19.9 Eat

19.10 Drink 19.1 Cities

• Bayramaly — a decent sized city on a dry oasis serv- 19.11 Stay safe ing as a natural dry climactic spa.

• Mary — the major regional city and large industrial 19.12 Go next center serving as the main tourist base for Merv and other nearby archaeological sites.

• Yoloten — an oil town.

19.2 Other destinations

• Gonur Depe — an archaeological site on an ancient Indo-Iranian settlement, some 4,000 years old.

• Merv — this UNESCO World Heritage site was one of the principal Silk Road oasis-cities throughout its inhabited history, and one-time largest city in the world.

19.3 Understand

19.4 Talk

19.5 Get in

19.6 Get around

19.7 See

19.7.1 Itineraries

19.8 Do

48 Chapter 20

Gonur Depe

Gonur Depe is a city in Mary Province, Turkmenistan. 20.2 Get in

Gonur Depe is situated about 60 km North of Mary.A 4WD is required. The road follows partly the Kara Kum Channel, but the last 20 Km of the road are a very rough track in the dirt of the desert. It will be a two hours’ drive from Mary and you will need about 2 hours for the visit of Gonur Depe. You can arrange the trip from Mary. You 20.1 Understand will have to pay about US$ 40 for the car and driver and US$ 30 for the guide. The trip is exhausting!

Gonur Depe is a Bronze Age archaeological site in Turk- menistan, dating back to the first half of the second mil- 20.3 Get around lennium BC, contemporary to the Mesopotamian and In- dus Valley civilizations. The first agricultural settlements in the Murgab River delta appeared in the 7th millennium 20.4 See BC. The area was later called Margush in old Iranian texts and Margiana by greek authors. The area of Margiana • Excavations. US$ 1, camera US$ 1.20. was 3000 square km wide, it consisted of more than 70 oasis and 150 settlements. Margiana reached its apex in the 16th to 13th cent. BC. 20.5 Do From the 1970 onwards the site was excavated by the Margiana Archaeological Expedition directed by the Rus- sian archaeologist Victor Sarianidi. 20.6 Buy Gonur Depe, the capital of Margiana, was a rectangu- lar fortress with powerful defensive walls, semicircular 20.7 Eat bastions and adobe buildings. Sarianidi discovered a palace and temples with fire altars. According to Sarian- Bring your own food and drinks. idi Gonur Depe belongs to one of the greatest civilizations of the ancient world (side by side with Mesopotamia, Egypt, India and China) and was the birthplace Zoroas- trianism, a religion based on the opposition of good and 20.8 Drink evil. Sarianidi also found evidence of a cult based on a drug Bring your own food and drinks. potion made from poppy, hemp and ephedra. According to the , the holy book of the drink called Haoma represents a deity that can cure all suffer- 20.9 Sleep ings. In 2009 a royal tomb was excavated in which the remains Next acccomodation is at Mary. of dogs, a cart with wheels having bronze rims and a large bronze cauldron with a diameter of 130 cm and a height of 1 m were found. This cauldron consists of 7 spherical 20.10 Connect tanks inserted one into the other.

49 50 CHAPTER 20. GONUR DEPE

20.11 Go next Chapter 21

Mary

Mary is a city in Mary Province, Turkmenistan. possible from the money changers on the Turkmen side of the border. Take a taxi to Mary.

21.1 Understand From Uzbekistan

21.2 Get in within Turkmenistan 21.2.4 By car 21.2.1 By plane

Turkmenistan Airlines operates three flights per day from 21.3 Get around Ashgabat. If you are short of time, you can fly from Ashgabat to Mary in the morning, visit Merv, and return to Ashgabat in the same evening. The airport is 5 km 21.4 See out of town on the road to Bairam Ali. A taxi to the city should cost about US$ 2. • Mary Museum, Komsomolska köcesi 1. Tue to Sun 10am to 5pm. The Museum contains a model of Merv and objects displayed from Victor Sarianidi’s 21.2.2 By rail excavations at the Bronze Age sites of Gonur-depe and in the northern part of the Merv oa- Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan Zeleznice) (Ashga- sis and discoveries from Sasanian-Islamic times at bat, phone 255545, fax 473858) runs trains from Ash- Merv. In the upper floor Turkmen carpets, a display gabat to Turkmenabat via Mary. of household items, everyday, wedding and ceremo- nial clothings and a fully decorated yurt are exhib- Trains to Mary leave Ashgabat at 7.40 daily, arriving at ited. US$1, camera US$5. Mary at 5 pm. Train 21 leaves Ashgabat every second day at 10.10 pm, and arrives at Mary at 5.25 next morning. • Pokrovskaya Church. Train 212 leaves Turkmenabat at 4.20 am daily, arriving • at Mary at 10.23 am. Train 196 leaves Turkmenabat at MIG aeroplane. 6.00 pm daily, arriving at Mary at 0.25 am. Train 22 leaves Turkmenabat at 9.55 pm daily, arriving at Mary at 2.51 am. 21.5 Do The railways station is near Hotel Sultan Sanjar. 21.6 Buy 21.2.3 By bus 21.7 Eat From Iran

Take the bus from Mashad bus station to Sarakhs (3 and 21.8 Drink a half hours, 6500 rials). The bus will drop you in the center of the village. Walk or take a shared taxi to the Iran-Turkmenistan border crossing. You have to pay a fee 21.9 Sleep US$ 10 to enter Turkmenistan. Change as little money as

51 52 CHAPTER 21. MARY

21.10 Connect

21.11 Go next

21.11.1 By plane

Turkmenistan Airlines operates three flights per day to Ashgabat. If The airport is 5 km out of town on the road to Bairam Ali. A taxi from the city should cost about US$ 2.

21.11.2 By rail

Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan Zeleznice) (Ashga- bat, phone 255545, fax 473858) runs trains from Ash- gabat to Turkmenabat via Mary and return. Trains to Mary leave Ashgabat at 7.40 daily, arriving at Mary at 5 pm. Train 21 leaves Ashgabat every second day at 10.10 p, and arrives at Mary at 5.25 next morning. Train 212 leaves Turkmenabat at 4.20 am daily, arriving at Mary at 10.23 am. Train 196 leaves Turkmenabat at 6.00 pm daily, arriving at Mary at 0.25 am. Train 22 leaves Turkmenabat at 9.55 pm daily, arriving at Mary at 2.51 am. The railways station is near Hotel Sultan Sanjar.

21.11.3 By bus

21.11.4 By Car

It is a full day drive on a poor quality road from Mary to Ashgabat in a private car.

To Iran Chapter 22

Merv

Merv is an old city on the Silk Road in the Mary Province 22.2 Get in of Turkmenistan. There is a state park for the old city center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 22.2.1 By plane

Turkmenistan Airlines operates three flights per day from 22.1 Understand Ashgabat to Mary. If you are short of time, you can fly from Ashgabat to Mary in the morning, visit Merv, and return to Ashgabat in the same evening. The oasis of Merv is situated in the Karakum Desert at the crossing of the Amu Darya (or Oxus) River and the main route to Bukhara and Samarkand. It occupies an 22.2.2 By rail area of 86 x 75 km. The earliest Bronze Age centers in the oasis of Merv date from 2500 BC to 1200 BC. They Turkmenistan Railways has daily trains from Ashgabat, are situated in the northern part of the oasis. Turkmenabat and Turkmenbasi to Mary. The historic urban center developed around 500 BC in the eastern part of the oasis. It consisted of several walled cities, occupying an area of mire than 1200 hectares. The 22.2.3 By bus oldest of these cities is Erk Kala. According to the fa- mous trilingual inscription of Darius the Great at Bisitun From Uzbekistan (Iran) Erk Kala dates back to the Achaemian period /519 to 331 BC). The oasis was part of Alexander the Great’s within Turkmenistan empire. Plinius the Elder reports that the city was founded by Alexander himself. It was rebuilt by the Seleucid king 22.2.4 By car Antiochus I Soter (281 to 261 BC) and named Margiana Antiochia. This city is identified with Erk Kala and Giaur Kala and was occupied in the Parthian, Sasanian and early 22.3 Get around Islamic periods. It is suggested that Greek and Roman soldiers who survived the defeat of the Romans against 22.4 See the Parthians at Carrhae in 53 BC settled at Margiana. Islam was dominant after the death of the last Sasanian King Yazdigird III (651 AD). The medieval city from the Seljuk period was erected west of the Giaur Kala. It was walled by Sultans Ma- likshah and Sanjar in the 11th and 12th cent. The city extended over more than 600 ha. It was the capital of the Seljuk Empire (11th to 13th cent.) and one of the most important cities in this period. It attracted scholars from all over the Islamic world, as the famous astronomer and poet Omar Khayyam and the geographer Yaqut al Hamavi. The city was sacked by the Mongols in 1221 and became part of the empire of Timur (1370-1405). The new city Abdullah Khan Kala was erected by Shah Rukh (1408- Aerial view of Merv 1471) on a new site to the south of Giaur Kala.

53 54 CHAPTER 22. MERV

• Mary Museum. Tue to Sun 10am to 5pm. ex- • Mausoleum of Mohammed ibn Zayid. The hibits from excavations of Bronze Age Gonur, Merv nearby Mausoleum of Mohammed ibn Zayid was and Altyn Depe, ethnographic collection on the built in the 12th cent. in honour of Mohammed ibn life of the Turkmen people (carpets, traditional Zayid, a major representative of the Shiit branch of clothes, wedding dress, silver jewellery, complete the Islam and descendant of caliph Ali in the fifth yurt) US$1, camera US$ 5. generation. Mohammed ibn Zayid was the head of a revolt against the Omayads in the 8th cent. The re- • The Bronze Age Settlements Kelleli, Adji Kul, Tai, volt was suppressed within a year and Mohammed Gonur Depe and Togoluk date from 2500 to 1200 ibn Zayid was killed. The fine Kufi inscription in BC. They are situated in the Northern part of the oa- the chamber and the original decorated brick facade sis. Kelleli 3 and Kelleli 4 have a double external wall of the prayer hall are especially remarkable. The with towers and houses. Both sites are poorly pre- mausoleum is considered one of the best examples served, but delivered important information of Mar- of Islamic architecture. (updated Feb 2016) giana in the Middle Bronze Age. Taip illustrates the transition from Middle to Late Bronze Age. Gonur • Greater and Lesser Kyz Kala. (updated Feb Depe is the largest Bronze Age site in Merv oasis. It 2016) covers an area of 55 ha. Excavations have revealed a huge palace, a fire temple and a large necropolis • Abdullah Khan Kala. Abdullah Khan Kala is the from the Late Bronze Age. Remains of large forti- fortress erected by Timur’s son Shahrukh in the 15th fied buildings have been discovered in the excava- cent. The fortress was lined with mud bricks from tions at Togoluk. the outside and had 44 watch towers. The fortifi- cations were surrounded by huge moats up to 30 m • The Iron Age Settlements, Yaz Depe and Takhir- wide, filled with water. In the citadel, only few walls baj Depe, in the Northern part of the oasis date from of the palace have survived. The walls, however, 1200 to 300 BC. Takhirbaj Depe was the most im- are of outstanding interest, as they show the evolu- portant Iron Age center in this area and was occu- tion of military architecture from the 5th cent. BC pied throughout the Achaemenid period. During ex- to the 15th/16th cent. AD. (updated Feb 2016) cavations at Yazd Depe a great number of ceramics was found, providing the basic typology of this pe- • The fortresses of Gobleki, Uly Kishman and riod. The well preserved fortress of Gobekli from Garry Kishman formed part of the earthen ram- Parthian-Sasanian times is nearby. parts, 30 km longs, built for protection against inva- sions from the steppes in the North. The historic urban center consist of three areas: Erk Kala, Giaur Kala and Sultan Kala. • Geok Tumbaz Mausoluem. (updated Feb 2016)

• Erk Kala. dates from the 6th cent. and covers • Seljuk Talkhattan Baba Mosque. The magnifi- an area of about 20 ha. It consists of a wall and cent mosque dates from the 12th cent. (updated Feb moat. The surviving walls are up to 30 meters high. 2016) (updated Feb 2016) • The Mausoleums of Imam Bakr and Imam • Giaur Kala. dates from around 1000 AD. It is Shafi. in the Talkhattan cemetery. (updated Feb roughly square in plan and its walls are about 2 2016) km long. The Ben Makhan Mosque in the cen- ter is hardly recognizable. The Buddhist stupa and • Bairamalikhan Kala. The fortress dates from the monastery in the south east corner of Giaur Kala are 18th cent. It is a three walled structure adjacent to considered as the westernmost excavated example. the western wall of Abdullakhan Kala. The length (updated Feb 2016) of the western wall was 750 meters, the northern and southern walls were 500 m long. Only fragments of • Sultan Kala. dates from the 11th cent. Sultan Kala the southern and northern walls have survived. (up- means 'fortress of the sultans’. It is situated to the dated Feb 2016) west of Giaur Kala. Merv became the capital of the Seljuk State in the 11th and 12th centuries. In this • Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar. The Mausoleum period the city reached its greatest prosperity. The was built in the center of the Seljuk city. It is also city was surrounded by a fortication and a moat by called 'Dar-al-Akhyre (The Other World). Ajmad order of sultan Melik Shah. The walls of the me- Sanjar (1085-1157) was sultan of the Great Seljuq dieval city and the citadel Shahriyar Ark are 12 km Empire. He was one of the last great Seljuk and long. (updated Feb 2016) was described as brave, generous and chivalrous, a 22.10. GO NEXT 55

perfect Iranized Turk, defender of the Persian civ- 22.10 Go next ilization and one of its legendary heroes. At the time of the division of the reign among the sons of Malkikshah he became governor of Khurasan at the age of ten or twelve. His principal residence was Merv. He installed vassal rulers in Transoxania and Afghanistan and became lord of an extensive sul- tanate in the Iranian East. In 1141, however, Tran- soxania was conquered by the Kara-Khitai, who had migrated from China to the Issyk Kul. In 1153 tribes of Oghuz rebelled against Sanjar, took him prisoner and plundered Merv. Sanjar could free himself 3 years later only and died in 1157. Finally, Sanjar had failed to create a lasting Seljuk state in the Ira- nian east. During the siege of Merv by the Mongols in 1221 the body of the sultan was reburied in an unknown place. The mausoleum was constructed by order of Sultan Muizeddin Sanjar. Due to the fine brickwork, the carved stucco and the surviving mu- ral paintings it is one of the most outstanding build- ings of the Seljuk period.

22.5 Do

22.6 Buy

• Tekke Bazaar (4 km out of town). Sun.

• New Bazaar, Mollanepes sayoli.

22.7 Eat

• Sachra, Magtymguly köcesi 40 (in Mary), ☎ 56177. the best restaurant in Mary, shashlik, Turkmen and Russian cooking

• Altyn Asir Kafe Bar, Gulistan sayoli (inear Hotel Sultan Sanjar in Mary), ☎ 39350. shashlik, Turk- men and Russian dishes

22.8 Drink

22.9 Sleep

• Hotel Sultan Sanjar, Mollanepes sayoli (in Mary), ☎ 67644. former Inturist hotel US$ 15 to 25.

• Hotel Rakhat, Murgab shossesi kilometer 2 (a little bit out of the town center of Mary), ☎ 6026134970. US$ 20 to 25.

• Hotel Yrsgal, Ata Köpek Mergen köcesi 40 (in Mary), ☎ 5375, 53842, fax: 35119. US$ 35-45. 56 CHAPTER 22. MERV

22.11 Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses

22.11.1 Text • Turkmenistan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Turkmenistan?oldid=2928690 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Jpatokal, Syced, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Pbsouthwood, Dguillaume, Sumone10154, W. Frank, Shaundd, AHeneen, Vidimian, Inas, JamesA, Pash- ley, Tsandell, Globe-trotter, Yann, Jonboy, Cacahuate, Xltel, Saqib, Romaine, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT- en) Bill Ellett, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) InterLangBot, (WT-en) Abi, (WT-en) Jake73, (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en) Travelbird, (WT- en) Brynus, (WT-en) Joelf, (WT-en) Bijee, (WT-en) Oobopshark, (WT-en) Chinzh, (WT-en) Omid Hatami, (WT-en) CIAWorldFact- book2002, (WT-en) Pryde 01, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Akajoey, (WT-en) Ilikescider, (WT-en) 386-DX, (WT-en) Obiwan9, (WT-en) Ctbolt, (WT-en) Cpopa, (WT-en) Leafwr, (WT-en) Samtranum, (WT-en) Krut, (WT-en) Chishik, (WT-en) Hartson65, Ikan Kekek, Snowbot, Simon Peter Hughes, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Andrewssi2, Sumone’s bot, EvanProdromou, CarsracBot, Bill-on-the- Hill, Booksworm, Andyrom75, Texugo, ChubbyWimbus, WOSlinker, Christons, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Rastapopulous, Wrh2Bot, Double sharp, Matroc, Addbot, Uhkabu, TeleComNasSprVen, 118.93nzp, Prof tpms, ŠotiBriti and Anonymous: 100 • Ahal Province Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ahal_Province?oldid=2886303 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, The Anome, The Anomebot2, Traveler100bot, Matroc and Missvain • Altin Depe Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Altin_Depe?oldid=2723856 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, (WT-en) Gnomee, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, DaGizza, Wrh2Bot and Matroc • Anau Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Anau?oldid=2764685 Contributors: Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Ed88 • Ashgabat Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ashgabat?oldid=2954650 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, Pbsouthwood, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, Globe-trotter, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Hot Coffee, (WT- en) Rouge, (WT-en) Turkturk, (WT-en) Joelf, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Türkmenbaşı, (WT-en) Obiwan9, Jonte--, AltynAsyr, LilHelpa, Marek69, CarsracBot, Crochet.david.bot, Texugo, ChubbyWimbus, WOSlinker, Wakefieldgdm, Traveler100bot, DaGizza, Ste- veRBot, Rastapopulous, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Ed88, Prof tpms, Hobbitschuster and Anonymous: 24 • Geok-tepe Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Geok-tepe?oldid=2301938 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, The Anomebot2, Inasbot and Traveler100bot • Jeitun Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Jeitun?oldid=2954830 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, Texugo, Inasbot and Traveler100bot • Karakum Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Karakum?oldid=2832155 Contributors: Pbsouthwood, W. Frank, Ikan Kekek, Texugo, DaGizza, Rastapopulous, Whoop whoop pull up and Anonymous: 3 • Nissa Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Nissa?oldid=2717995 Contributors: Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Saqib, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, AmaryllisGardener, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Armigo~enwikivoyage, Ed88 and Anonymous: 1 • Balkan Province Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Balkan_Province?oldid=2886542 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, The Anomebot2 and Traveler100bot • Balkanabat Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Balkanabat?oldid=2835941 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, The Anomebot2, Torty3, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, DaGizza, Wrh2Bot, Smokestack Basilisk and Anonymous: 3 • Turkmenbashi Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Turkmenbashi?oldid=2914917 Contributors: Wrh2, Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, At- sirlin, Pbsouthwood, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Pashley, Jonboy, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, Ikan Kekek, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, DaGizza, Rastapopulous, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 8 • Dashoguz Province Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dashoguz_Province?oldid=2950379 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, Lt- Powers and Traveler100bot • Daşoguz Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Da%C5%9Foguz?oldid=2778919 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, Sumone10154, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, DaGizza, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1 • Konye Urgench Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Konye_Urgench?oldid=2956292 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Pashley, Globe-trotter, Saqib, (WT-en) Gnomee, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, Ikan Kekek, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 2 • Lebap Province Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Lebap_Province?oldid=2301932 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, The Anomebot2 and Traveler100bot • Kugitang Nature Reserve Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kugitang_Nature_Reserve?oldid=2301944 Contributors: Peterfitzger- ald, LtPowers, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Leafwr, The Anomebot2 and Traveler100bot • Türkmenabat Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/T%C3%BCrkmenabat?oldid=2774556 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, Yp- silon, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, Ymblanter, The Anomebot2, Wakefieldgdm, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 3 • Mary Province Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mary_Province?oldid=2301933 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, The Anomebot2 and Traveler100bot • Gonur Depe Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Gonur_Depe?oldid=2953978 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Gnomee, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, Jonte--, CarsracBot, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Hob- bitschuster and Anonymous: 1 • Mary Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mary?oldid=2523723 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, (WT-en) Gnomee, (WT-en) Travelbird, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Obiwan9, The Anomebot2, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1 • Merv Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Merv?oldid=2942274 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Gobbler, Peterfitzgerald, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Pashley, Saqib, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, The Anomebot2, WOSlinker, Curtaintoad, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Addbot 22.11. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 57

22.11.2 Images • File:Ahal.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/59/Ahal.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Jozef Lang • File:Anau_Mishin.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/81/Anau_Mishin.jpg License: Public domain Con- tributors: Museum of Fine Art in Ashgabat Original artist: К. С. Мишин • File:Ashgabat1.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/91/Ashgabat1.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contribu- tors: Picture uploaded from w:en:Image:Ashgabat1.jpg, autor: Doluca Original artist: Doluca • File:Ashgabat_Zoo.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f1/Ashgabat_Zoo.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Con- tributors: Own work Original artist: AltynAsyr • File:Aškabat_Berdimuhamedov.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9d/A%C5%A1kabat_ Berdimuhamedov.JPG License: GFDL Contributors: Transferred from sl.wikipedia to Commons. Original artist: Ljuba brank at Slovenian Wikipedia • File:Aškabat_Nijazov_(7).JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/24/A%C5%A1kabat_Nijazov_%287% 29.JPG License: GFDL Contributors: Transferred from sl.wikipedia to Commons. Original artist: Ljuba brank at Slovenian Wikipedia • File:Aškabat_po_mestu_(7).JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/50/A%C5%A1kabat_po_mestu_ %287%29.JPG License: GFDL Contributors: Transferred from sl.wikipedia to Commons. Original artist: Ljuba brank at Slovenian Wikipedia • File:Baking_Bread_in_Bai_Bazaar,_Dashoguz.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fa/Baking_Bread_ in_Bai_Bazaar%2C_Dashoguz.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidstanleytravel/5731110826/ Original artist: David Stanley • File:Balkanabat.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/df/Balkanabat.jpg License: Public domain Contribu- tors: ? Original artist: ? • File:CamelsInErbent.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/33/CamelsInErbent.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Rastapopulous • File:Central_Asia_100.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1d/Central_Asia_100.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Flickr: Central Asia 100 Original artist: Stefan Krasowski • File:DarvazaMay2011.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f1/DarvazaMay2011.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Rastapopulous • File:Ertugrul_Gazi_Mosque_in_Ashgabat,_Turkmenistan.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/22/ Ertugrul_Gazi_Mosque_in_Ashgabat%2C_Turkmenistan.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: Jim Fitzgerald • File:FriedBreadInErbent.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/21/FriedBreadInErbent.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Rastapopulous • File:Golden_Niyazov.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikivoyage/en/4/44/Golden_Niyazov.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Con- tributors: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Golden_Niyazov.jpg Original artist: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Gilad.rom • File:Great_Kyz_Kala.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/72/Great_Kyz_Kala.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidstanleytravel/5731116064/ Original artist: David Stanley • File:Independence_Day_Parade_-_Flickr_-_Kerri-Jo_(162).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/dc/ Independence_Day_Parade_-_Flickr_-_Kerri-Jo_%28162%29.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Independence Day Parade Origi- nal artist: Kerri-Jo Stewart from Vancouver, Canada • File:Karakum_Desert_rotated.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e8/Karakum_Desert_rotated.jpg Li- cense: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: File:Karakum Desert.jpg Original artist: flydime • File:Kunstmatige_rivier_(3406776464).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c0/Kunstmatige_rivier_ %283406776464%29.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Kunstmatige rivier Original artist: Martijn.Munneke from Netherlands • File:LakeOfFireFromAfar.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/69/LakeOfFireFromAfar.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Rastapopulous • File:LocationTurkmenistan.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b5/LocationTurkmenistan.png License: Public domain Contributors: ? Original artist: ? • File:Map_mag.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ce/Map_mag.png License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Designer: FatCow Web Hosting (Transferred by TarzanASG) Original artist: The original uploader was Mey2008 at German Wikipedia • File:Mervturkmenistan.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a0/Mervturkmenistan.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Originally uploaded to Flickr as Port of Turkmenbashi Original artist: Mark and Delwen • File:National_Museum_of_Turkmenistan.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/66/National_Museum_ of_Turkmenistan.jpg License: CC BY 2.5 Contributors: Photo taken by Gilad Rom Original artist: Gilad Rom • File:Nisa_(16).JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/21/Nisa_%2816%29.JPG License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Ljuba brank at Slovenian Wikipedia • File:Nisa_Fortress.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b2/Nisa_Fortress.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contrib- utors: http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidstanleytravel/5730561939/ Original artist: David Stanley • File:Plein_van_de_Vrijheid_(3406780202).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/41/Plein_van_de_ Vrijheid_%283406780202%29.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Plein van de Vrijheid Original artist: Martijn.Munneke from Netherlands 58 CHAPTER 22. MERV

• File:Russian_Baazar.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/33/Russian_Baazar.jpg License: CC BY 2.5 Con- tributors: Photo taken by Gilad Rom Original artist: Gilad Rom • File:Stans08-024_(3134862572).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/45/Stans08-024_%283134862572% 29.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: stans08-024 Original artist: Dave Proffer • File:Stans08-098_(3134913370).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1d/Stans08-098_%283134913370% 29.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: stans08-098 Original artist: Dave Proffer • File:Sultan_Sanjar_mausoleum.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/df/Sultan_Sanjar_mausoleum.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ifl/3892634354/ Original artist: Peretz Partensky • File:Tekesh_Mausoleum.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4c/Tekesh_Mausoleum.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Tim Williams • File:Turkmenistan_regions_map2.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/65/Turkmenistan_regions_map2. png License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Own work based on UN Cartographic Section [1] Original artist: Peter Fitzgerald • File:Ylham_Alley_Ashgabat_12.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e5/Ylham_Alley_Ashgabat_12.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: AltynAsyr • File:Туркменский_ковёр.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cd/%D0%A2%D1%83%D1%80%D0% BA%D0%BC%D0%B5%D0%BD%D1%81%D0%BA%D0%B8%D0%B9_%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%B2%D1%91%D1%80.JPG Li- cense: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: AltynAsyr

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