05_588265_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 10:36 PM Page 5

1 The Best of

Although it’s the state nickname, describing Florida as the Sunshine State is like call- ing Katie Couric “perky.” Sure, it’s true, but not all the time—and it doesn’t nearly begin to describe the state’s other marketable assets. There’s a lot more to the state than just sunshine—which, by the way, isn’t even a 24/7 given; it does rain here. Weather aside, choosing the best of Florida is by no means simple. While millions of visitors flock here to escape the bleakness of winter and landlocked locations, they don’t all come down for sun, fun, and Mickey Mouse. Granted, the promise of (mostly) clear skies and 800 miles of sparkling, sandy beaches is alluring, as are the animatronics and roller coast- ers in Orlando and Tampa, but there’s much more to the state than that. In fact, in many ways, Florida is like a beautiful, blond beauty queen whom everyone thinks is all fluff until they find out she happens to be a Rhodes scholar. More than meets the eye has made this one of the country’s most popular year-round vacation destinations. Here you can choose from a colorful, often kitschy assortment of accommodations, from deluxe resorts to mom-and-pop motels. You can visit remote little towns like Apalachicola or a multicultural megalopolis like Miami. You can devour fresh seafood, from amberjack to oysters—and then work off those calories in such outdoor pursuits as bicycling, golfing, or kayaking. Despite overdevelopment in many parts of the state, Floridians have maintained thousands of acres of wilderness areas, from the little respite of Clam Pass County Park in downtown Naples to magnificent Everglades National Park, which stretches across the state’s southern tip. Choosing the “best” of all of this is a daunting task, and the selections in this chap- ter are only highlights. You’ll find numerous other outstanding resorts, hotels, desti- nations, activities, and attractions described in this book. And with an open mind and a sense of adventure, you’ll come up with bests of your own.

1 The Best Beaches • Virginia Key (Key Biscayne): The before pristine places like this one producers of Survivor could feasibly gave way to avaricious developers and shoot their show on this ultra- pollutants. See p. 132. secluded,COPYRIGHTED picturesque, and deserted • Lummus MATERIAL Park Beach (South Beach): key, where people go purposely not to This beach is world-renowned, not be found. See p. 124. necessarily for its pristine sands, but • Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park for its more common name of South (Key Biscayne): The pot of gold at Beach, on which seeing, being seen the end of the rainbow, Bill Baggs and, at times, the obscene, go hand in 1 radiates serenity with 1 ⁄4 miles of hand with the sunscreen and beach sandy beach, nature trails, and even a towels. The 12th Street section is the historic lighthouse that recalls an era beach of choice for gay residents and 05_588265_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 10:36 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA Florida ALABAMA GEORGIA

85 319 19 29 10

231 r Fort Walton e 10 v Beach CENTRAL i R 10 98 TIME a 98 l Jacksonville Pensacola Panama City o EASTERN Tallahassee Destin c 19 i TIME h c 319 27

Perdido a 98

l

a Key Panama City Beach p

A 27 98 Apalachicola St.St. GeorgeGeorge IslandIsland Apalachee Bay

Gulf of Mexico Tampa

St. Petersburg St. Pete Beach A Bradenton Sarasota

BIG CYPRESS NATIONAL PRESERVE

Miami EVERGLADES THE NATIONAL PARK

FLORIDA

0 50 mi Bahia Honda Key N Big Pine 0 50 km Coppitt Key Key 05_588265_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 10:36 PM Page 7

THE BEST BEACHES 7

r e iv R 95 ee n n 1 a w Amelia Island Su A1A

JacksonvilleJacksonville Jacksonville Beach 10 Ponte Vedera Beach S Lake City t . 1 J 295 o h 75 n s St. Augustine

R

i St. George v St. Augustine Beach e Island r Gainesville 95 OCALA A1A ATLANTIC 24 NATIONAL 1 41 FOREST OCEAN Daytona Beach 19 Ocala 40 98 4 1 Cedar De Land Key Homosassa 75 Orlando NASA-Kennedy Springs Space Center 50 Bee Line Cape Tarpon Springs Expwy. 528 Canaveral 98 27 Clearwater Kissimmee Cocoa Beach F Beach lo r ida Clearwater TTampaampa ’ Melbourne Lakeland s 95 T 4 Winter Haven u A1A r 19 n St.St. p 1 60 ik PetersburgPetersburg e Sebastion 60 K SSt.t. PetePete iss im Vero Beach BeachBeach m e Anna Maria 17 e North Hutchinson Island Island 64 Ri

BBradentonradenton v Fort Pierce e

17 r SSarasotaarasota 98 70 Port St. Lucie 70 72 Jensen Beach Stuart 41 75 27 Hobe Sound Lake Jupiter Gasparilla 31 Okeechobee Riviera Beach Island ver West Palm Beach Boca Grande hee Ri osahatc Palm Beach Useppa Calo 80 27 441 Island 1 Fort Myers Captiva Island 95 Delray Beach 27 Boca Raton Sanibel Island Fort Myers BIG CYPRESS Beach SWAMP Everglade Pkwy. Pompano Beach (Alligator Alley) Naples 75 84 Fort Lauderdale 29 BBIGIG CYPRESSCYPRESS Dania Beach NATIONALNATIONAL PRESERVEPRESERVE595 Hollywood Everglades City Hallandale Miami Beach Marco 41 (South Beach Island Ten MiamiMiami and Sunny Isles) Thousand EEVERGLADESVERGLADES Islands NNATIONALATIONAL Homestead 195 PPARKARK 1 Flamingo BISCAYNE NATIONAL PARK Florida Bay Key Largo s Plantation Key rida BBahiaahia HHondaonda Flo KeyKey BigBig PPineine Long Key Key West 1 CoppittCoppitt KeyKey Marathon Key Dry Tortugas KeyKey 05_588265_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 10:36 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA travelers who come to show off just • Naples Beach (Naples): Many Florida how much time they’ve spent in the cities and towns have beaches, but few gym and, of course, catch up on the are as lovely as the gorgeous strip that latest gossip and upcoming must- fronts Naples’s famous Millionaires’ attend parties and events. Often- Row. You don’t have to be rich to wan- times, this beach is the venue for der its length, peer at the mansions, or some of the liveliest parties South stroll on historic Naples Pier to catch Beach has ever seen. See p. 124. a sunset over the Gulf. See p. 363. • Haulover Beach (Miami Beach): • Caladesi Island State Park (Clearwa- 1 Nestled between the Intracoastal ter Beach): Even though 3 ⁄2-mile-long Waterway and the ocean, especially at Caladesi Island is in the heavily devel- the north end, is the place to be for oped Tampa Bay area, it has a lovely, that all-over tan: Haulover is the city’s relatively secluded beach with soft only clothing-optional (aka nude) sand edged in sea grass and palmettos. beach. See p. 139. Dolphins cavort in offshore waters. • Bahia Honda State Park (Bahia In the park itself, there’s a nature trail Honda Key): This is one of the nicest where you might see one of the rat- and most peaceful beaches in Florida. tlesnakes, black racers, raccoons, It’s located amidst 635 acres of nature armadillos, or rabbits that live here. trails and a portion of Henry Flagler’s The park is accessible only by ferry railroad. See p. 185. from Honeymoon Island State Recre- • John U. Lloyd Beach State Park ation Area, off Dunedin. See p. 420. (Dania Beach): Unfettered by high- • Fort DeSoto Park (St. Petersburg): rise condominiums, T-shirt shops, Where else can you get a good tan and hotels, this wonderful beach and a history lesson? At Fort DeSoto boasts an untouched shoreline sur- Park, you not only have 1,136 acres rounded by a canopy of Australian of five interconnected islands and 3 pine to ensure complete seclusion. miles of unfettered beaches, but also a See p. 241. fort, for which the park was named, • Lover’s Key State Park (Fort Myers that’s listed on the National Register Beach): You’ll have to walk or take a of Historic Places. There are also tram through a bird-filled forest of nature trails, fishing piers, a 2.25-mile mangroves to this gorgeous, unspoiled canoe trail, and spectacular views of beach just a few miles south of busy Tampa Bay and the Gulf. See p. 422. Fort Myers Beach. Although Sanibel • Canaveral National Seashore (Cape Island gets the accolades, the shelling Canaveral): Midway between the here is just as good, if not better. See crowded attractions at Daytona p. 329. Beach and Kennedy Space Center is a • Cayo Costa State Park (off Captiva protected stretch of coastline 24 miles Island): These days, deserted tropical long, backed by cabbage palms, sea islands with great beaches are scarce grapes, and palmettos. See p. 519. in Florida, but this 2,132-acre barrier • Gulf Islands National Seashore strip of sand, pine forest, mangrove (Pensacola): You could argue that all swamp, oak hammock, and grassland of Northwest Florida’s Gulf shore is provides a genuine get-away-from-it- one of America’s great beaches—an all experience. Access is only by boat almost-uninterrupted stretch of pure from nearby Gasparilla, Pine, and white sand that runs the entire Captiva islands. See p. 356. length of the Panhandle, from Perdido 05_588265_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 10:36 PM Page 9

THE BEST FISHING 9 Key to St. George Island. The Gulf • St. Andrews State Park (Panama Islands National Seashore preserves City Beach): With more than 1,000 much of this natural wonder in its acres of dazzling white sand and undeveloped state. Countless terns, dunes, this preserved wilderness snowy plovers, black skimmers, and demonstrates what Panama City other birds nest along the dunes Beach looked like before motels and topped with sea oats. East of the condominiums lined its shore. Lacy, national seashore and equally beautiful golden sea oats sway in Gulf breezes, are Grayton Beach State Park, near and fragrant rosemary grows wild. Destin; and St. George Island State The area is home to foxes, coyotes, Park, off Apalachicola. See p. 622. and a herd of deer. See p. 613.

2 The Best Fishing • The Keys: The Keys boast world-class fishing-net ban, however, much of deep-sea fishing; the prize is such big- that industry has died off, leaving the game fish as marlin, sailfish, and tuna. sport fishers all the rich bounty of the There’s reef fishing as well, for “eating lake. See p. 314. fish” like snapper and grouper; and • Stuart: Known as the “Sailfish Capi- backcountry fishing for bonefish, tar- tal of the World,” Stuart is an angler’s pon, and other “stalking” fish. Dozens haven. The fish bite year-round, of charter-fishing boats operate from but peak months are December Key West marinas and from other, less through March and June through popular keys. Islamorada, in the July. Sailfishing is an art of its own— Upper Keys, is the sport-fishing capi- beginners must learn that exact tal of the world. Anglers compete for moment to let the reel drag so that trophy sailfish, marlin, wahoo, and the fish run with the lure. See p. 298. kingfish at many annual big-money • Boca Grande: The deep, shadowy tournaments. Seven-Mile Bridge, holes of Boca Grande Pass, between linking the Middle and Lower keys, is Gasparilla and Cayo Costa islands off known as “the longest fishing bridge Fort Myers, harbor the mighty tar- in the world”; it’s also a favorite spot pon, the “silver king of the seas.” for local fishers who wait for bar- Teddy Roosevelt and his rich buddies racuda, yellowtail, and dolphin to used to bag tarpon in these waters, bite. See p. 175. and anglers from around the globe • Lake Okeechobee: Many visitors to still compete every July in the World’s the Treasure Coast come to fish, and Richest Tarpon Tournament. See they certainly get their fill from the p. 355. miles of Atlantic shore and from • Destin: Florida’s largest charter-boat inland rivers. If you want to fish fleet, with more than 140 vessels, freshwater and nothing else, head for is based in this Panhandle town, Lake Okeechobee, the state’s largest which calls itself the “World’s Lucki- lake, which is chock-full of good eat- est Fishing Village.” Anglers here ing fish. It covers more than 467,000 have landed championship catches of acres—that’s more than 730 square grouper, amberjack, snapper, mack- miles. At one time, the lake sup- erel, cobia, sailfish, wahoo, tuna, and ported an enormous commercial fish- blue marlin. See p. 595. ing industry. Due to a commercial 05_588265_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 10:36 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA

3 The Best Golf Courses • Biltmore Hotel (Miami): The beau- Fazio. It offers great glimpses of tiful, rolling, 18-hole wildlife amid the wetlands. See designed by Donald Ross and located p. 298. at the majestic Biltmore Hotel in • Tiburón Golf Club (Naples): Greg Coral Gables is open to the public Norman designed this course’s 36 and is a favorite of Bill Clinton. See championship holes to play like a p. 91. British Open—but without the thick • Doral Golf Resort and Spa (Miami): thatch rough. The course is now Four championship courses make the home to the luxurious Ritz-Carlton Doral one of Miami’s best golf desti- Golf Resort, Naples. See p. 362. nations. One course, the legendary • Naples Beach Hotel & Golf Club Blue Monster, is the site of the annual (Naples): One of the state’s oldest, Doral-Ryder Open. See p. 89. this resort course is relatively flat, but • Fairmont Turnberry Isle Resort & small greens and masterful bunkers Club (Aventura, North Miami will test your skills. In addition, one Beach): These two 18-hole courses by of Florida’s most charming resort Robert Trent Jones, Sr., are open only hotels is across the street. See p. 367. to guests, but are among the city’s • Mangrove Bay Golf Course (St. best. See p. 90. Petersburg): One of the nation’s top • The Inn at Ocean Breeze Golf and 50 municipal courses, the Mangrove Country Club (Boca Raton): For Bay course hugs the inlets of Old over 3 decades, this inn (formerly Tampa Bay and offers 18-hole, - known as the Inn at Boca Teeca) has 72 play. Facilities include a driving been attracting golf fanatics who range; lessons and golf-club rental are could care less about the small but also available. See p. 411. comfortable rooms; they’re too busy • The Westin Innisbrook Resort (Tar- out on the superb 27-hole golf course pon Springs): Golfweek has called at the Boca Teeca Country Club, Innisbrook’s Copperhead Course, open only to members and guests of former home of the annual JCPenney the inn. See p. 267. Classic, number one in Florida. Each • PGA National Resort & Spa (Palm year, 1,000 students go through Beach): This rambling resort, the Innisbrook’s Golf Institute. Golfers national headquarters of the PGA, is from around the world come to play a premier golf destination with five the 600 acres of courses. See p. 428. 18-hole courses on more than 2,300 • Walt Disney World (Orlando): The acres. See p. 293. resorts surrounding the theme parks • Emerald Dunes Golf Course (West have 99 regulation holes that let you Palm Beach): This gorgeous Tom walk in the footsteps (and share the Fazio–designed course (featuring 60 frustrations) of the game’s greatest acres of water and stunning views of players. Those with a shorter stroke the ocean) is pricey, but one of only a can play the master miniature courses: few in the area open to the public. Fantasia Gardens and Winter Sum- See p. 275. merland. See p. 499. • Champions Club at Summerfield • Ladies Professional Golf Associa- (Stuart): The best in the area, this tion/LPGA International (Daytona rural, somewhat challenging champi- Beach): This “women-friendly” course onship course was designed by Tom (unless you’re Anika Sorenson) has 05_588265_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 10:36 PM Page 11

THE BEST SMALL TOWNS 11 multiple tee settings, unrestricted tee Nicklaus–designed course is the first times, a great pro shop, and state-of- authentic seaside links built in the-art facilities. Designed by Rees- Florida since the 1920s. See p. 548. Jones, the older of the two courses • Amelia Island Plantation (Amelia here was chosen as one of the “Top Island): This exclusive resort has three Ten You Can Play” by . of the state’s best courses. Long Point See p. 529. Club, designed by Tom Fazio, is the • TPC at Sawgrass (Ponte Vedra most beautiful and challenging. Pete Beach, near Jacksonville): With 99 Dye’s Amelia Links comprises two holes, ’s Tournament Players courses, Oak Marsh and Ocean Club (TPC) at Sawgrass makes top- Links. All are open only to resort 10 lists everywhere. The 17th hole, guests. See p. 573. on a tricky island, is one of the most • Marriott’s Bay Point Resort Village photographed holes in the world. See (Panama City Beach): Thirty-six holes p. 560. of championship golf at this Marriott • Ocean Hammock Golf Club (Palm include the Lagoon Legends course, Coast, between Daytona Beach and one of the country’s most difficult. St. Augustine): Opened in late 2000 Nearby is the Hombre, an 18-holer with six of its holes actually skirt- where O. J. Simpson played a round ing the Atlantic Ocean, this Jack right after his acquittal. See p. 618.

4 The Best Small Towns • Sebastian (Treasure Coast): Known much of Old Florida’s charm, with as one of the last remaining fishing tree-lined streets dividing many of villages in Florida, Sebastian is the original clapboard homes. With located at the northern tip of the the houses on Millionaires’ Row vir- Treasure Coast region in Indian River tually hidden by dense foliage and County. The area’s small-town feel with no high-rises in sight, Naples and laid-back, relaxed atmosphere are Beach seems far removed from among its biggest draws. See p. 308. today’s modern city. See p. 363. • Boca Grande (Southwest Florida): • Tarpon Springs (Southwest Florida): Founded in the 1880s, this little vil- Tarpon Springs calls itself the lage on Gasparilla Island retains the “Sponge Capital of the World” flavor of those Victorian times. Luxu- because immigrants from Greece set- rious mansions coexist with simple tled here in the late 1800s to harvest homes of fishermen who guide rich the sponges that grew in abundance folks in search of tarpon, just as their offshore. Their descendants make ancestors did a century ago. The du Tarpon Springs a fascinating center of Ponts, Mellons, and Astors once transplanted Greek culture. Sponges arrived for the wintertime “social sea- still arrive at the historic Sponge son” at the town’s railway depot, Docks, where a lively, carnival-like which has been restored and now atmosphere and Greek cuisine pre- houses shops and the Loose Caboose vail. Restored Victorian homes facing Restaurant and Ice Cream Parlor. See Spring Bayou also make this one of p. 355. the most picturesque towns in the • Olde Naples (Naples): Started in state. See p. 432. 1886 as a real-estate development, • Fernandina Beach (Northeast the original part of Naples retains Florida): You can stay at two of 05_588265_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 10:36 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA Florida’s ritziest resorts on Amelia conditioner, which revolutionized Island, but real charm can be found Florida’s tourism industry. Today, the in the quaint town of Fernandina town’s major industry is seafood, with Beach, where a 50-block area of Vic- famous Apalachicola oysters eaten torian and Queen Anne homes is fresh off the boats. See p. 621. listed on the National Register of • Pensacola (Northwest Florida): One Historic Places. See p. 569. of America’s oldest communities, • Apalachicola (Northwest Florida): Pensacola has preserved its Spanish, Located at the mouth of the French, and English heritage in the Apalachicola River, this Gulf-shore Seville Historic District and Historic town was a major cotton port before Pensacola Village. Spanish-named the Civil War, and a later timber boom streets are bordered by French-style resulted in the fine Victorian homes wrought-iron balconies reminiscent that still grace Apalachicola’s uncurbed of New Orleans; the English colonial streets. It was here that Dr. John Gor- churches resemble those in Williams- rie invented the forerunner of the air burg, Virginia. See p. 579.

5 The Best Luxury Resorts • Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne (Key ocean frontage, everything else is very Biscayne; & 800/241-3333 or 305/ much in the immediate present. See 365-4500): In addition to the Ritz’s p. 72. consistently superior services and • The Breakers (Palm Beach; & 800/ amenities, this British colonial–style 833-3141 or 561/655-6611): This version of the Ritz rises above its stately, historic hotel epitomizes la casual Key Biscayne surroundings dolce vita, Palm Beach style, featuring with a stellar view of the Atlantic an elegant lobby, impeccable service, Ocean, not to mention an equally expansive manicured lawns, and a impressive 20,000-square-foot spa. very scenic golf course that is the See p. 83. state’s oldest. See p. 280. • Mandarin Oriental, Miami (Brick- • Four Seasons Resort Palm Beach ell Key, Miami; & 305/913-8288): (Palm Beach; & 800/432-2335 or The swank and stunning Mandarin 561/582-2800): “Exquisite” is the Oriental features a waterfront loca- adjective most often used to describe tion, residential-style rooms (most this posher-than-Posh-Spice-and- with balconies), superb service, a spa David-Beckham-combined hotel. frequented by J-Lo, and several Luxurious but hardly stuffy, the Four upscale dining and bar facilities pre- Seasons was the stay of choice for viously unknown in its nearby down- quintessential aging rockers Aero- town Miami locale. See p. 87. smith, who took great advantage of • Ritz-Carlton South Beach (South post-concert pampering. See p. 281. Beach; & 800/241-3333 or 786/ • LaPlaya Beach & Golf Resort 276-4000): Taking the concept of (Naples; & 800/237-6883 or 239/ swanky South Beach to a very literal 597-3123): More intimate than the level, the Ritz-Carlton South Beach Ritz, the equally luxe LaPlaya Beach may be a landmark building restored & Golf Resort offers spacious rooms, to its original 1950s Art Moderne each with a completely private bal- style, but in terms of the hotel’s cony overlooking the pristine waters standout service, amenities, and of the Gulf or Vanderbilt Bay. New to 05_588265_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 10:36 PM Page 13

THE BEST ROMANTIC HIDEAWAYS 13 the completely renovated property tropical getaway is so romantic, you are four unique pools, two lagoons, may bump into six or seven honey- an outdoor whirlpool, the Tiki Bar, mooning couples in one weekend. the 4,500-square-foot SpaTerre, the The lobby has classic high windows 2,700-square-foot fitness center, the and archways, crystal chandeliers, Gulf-view Baleen restaurant, and a marble floors, and original artwork. 6,907-yard championship 18-hole Most rooms have high ceilings and golf course designed by Bob Cupp. offer views of the Gulf or Boca Ciega See p. 368. Bay. See p. 425. • Ritz-Carlton Golf Resort, Naples • Disney’s Grand Floridian Resort & (Naples; & 888/856-4372 or 239/ Spa (Lake Buena Vista; & 407/934- 593-2000): This luxurious new 7639): This magnificent Victorian Mediterranean-style resort takes full inn has an opulent five-story lobby advantage of the – complete with a Chinese Chippen- designed Tiburón Golf Club. Guests dale aviary. An orchestra plays big- here can use the beach and spa at the band music every evening near Ritz-Carlton, Naples, nearby. See Victoria & Albert’s, the resort’s five- p. 369. star restaurant. See p. 461. • Ritz-Carlton, Naples (Naples; & 888/ • Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress 856-4372 or 239/598-3300): This Resort (Orlando; & 800/233-1234 opulent 14-story Mediterranean-style or 407/239-1234): This standout has hotel at Vanderbilt Beach is a favorite some impressive treats, including a of affluent types who like standard half-acre pool with a dozen waterfalls, Ritz amenities such as imported mar- three spas, 12 tennis courts, four Jack ble floors, antique art, Oriental rugs, Nicklaus–designed golf courses, and Waterford-crystal chandeliers, and a 45-acre nature walk. All this adds afternoon British-style high tea. up to luxury. See p. 467. Guests relax in high-backed rockers • Amelia Island Plantation (Amelia on the verandas or unwind by the Island; & 888/261-6161 or 904/ heated pool set in a landscaped ter- 261-6161): Set amid magnolias, oak race, but they must walk through a trees, and the Atlantic Ocean, this narrow mangrove forest to reach the gracious resort is straight out of the beach. See p. 369. Deep South. It’s more rustic than the • Don CeSar Beach Resort & Spa nearby Ritz, but it has excellent hik- (St. Pete Beach; & 866/728-2206 or ing and biking paths, tennis, swim- 727/360-1881): Dating back to 1928 ming, horseback riding, and boating. and listed on the National Register of Golfers can enjoy exclusive use of two Historic Places, this “Pink Palace” of Florida’s top courses. See p. 573.

6 The Best Romantic Hideaways • Hotel Place St. Michel (Coral paneled walls, cozy beds, beautiful Gables; & 800/848-HOTEL or antiques, and a quiet elegance that 305/444-1666): This European-style seems startlingly out of place in hotel in the heart of Coral Gables trendy Miami. See p. 92. is one of the city’s most romantic • Hotel Impala (South Beach; & 800/ options. The accommodations and 646-7252 or 305/673-2021): Dur- hospitality are very old-world Euro- ing the heyday of 1990s excess, pean, complete with dark-wood Miami Beach was known for the 05_588265_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 10:36 PM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA fabulous parties thrown by the eclec- • Sundy House (Delray Beach; & 877/ tic designer Gianni Versace. The late 439-9601 or 561/272-5678): With Versace desired an intimate Euro- just 11 suites surrounded by over pean-style guesthouse that would 5,000 species of exotic plants and please well-seasoned travelers, and flowers, gazebos, and flowing streams, the Impala is the result. His personal Sundy House is a gorgeous getaway touch on this renovated Mediter- close enough to access the beach, but ranean inn is still evident, from the safely hidden from the mood-ruining Greco-Roman frescoes and friezes to madness and conventionality of your an intimate garden perfumed by typical tourist-class beach hotel. See strategically planted hanging lilies p. 266. and gardenias. See p. 76. • Island’s End Resort (St. Pete Beach; • Abbey Hotel (South Beach; & 888/ & 727/360-5023): Sitting right on 61-ABBEY or 305/531-0031): This Pass-a-Grille, where the Gulf of Mex- ’40s-revival boutique hotel, tucked ico meets Tampa Bay, this little all- away in a mostly residential neigh- cottage retreat is a great hideaway borhood, is a haven from the neigh- from the crowds of St. Pete Beach. boring South Beach hoopla. See You won’t have an on-site restaurant, p. 77. bar, and other such amenities, but • Jules’ Undersea Lodge (Key Largo; you can step from your cottage right & 305/451-2353): Submerge your- onto the beach. And if you get the self in this single-room Atlantis-like unit with two living rooms, you’ll hotel that offers a surprisingly com- have a whirlpool tub and your own fortable suite 30 feet underwater. Gulf-side pool. See p. 426. Don’t worry; there’s plenty of breath- • Turtle Beach Resort (Siesta Key, off ing room. See p. 178. Sarasota; & 941/349-4554): Sitting • Little Palm Island (Little Torch Key; beside the bay, this intimate little & 800/343-8567 or 305/872-2524): charmer began life years ago as a tradi- Accessible only by boat, this private tional Old Florida fishing camp, but 5-acre island is not only remote, it’s today it’s one of the state’s most roman- romantic—there no TVs, telephones, tic retreats. It’s a tightly packed little or faxes in the luxurious thatched cot- place, but high wooden fences sur- tages. See p. 187. round each unit’s private outdoor hot • Marquesa Hotel (Key West; & 800/ tub, and one-way mirror walls let you 869-4631 or 305/292-1919): Don’t lounge in bed while passersby see only be fooled by the Marquesa’s location reflections of themselves. See p. 445. on heavily populated Key West: This • Disney’s Wilderness Lodge & Villas charming B&B is in a wonderful (Lake Buena Vista; & 407/934- world of its own, far enough from the 7639): This property is reminiscent tumult, yet close enough if you want of the lodge at Yellowstone. The it. See p. 206. geyser out back, the mammoth stone • The Gardens Hotel (Key West; hearth in the lobby, the dining room’s & 800/526-2664 or 305/294-2661): 360-degree view of Bay Lake, and the A well-kept secret (until now), The nightly, electrically lit water pageants Gardens Hotel is an exotic, lush, are just a few of the reasons to stay serene, and sultry escape from the here. Some guest rooms have patios frat-boy madness that ensues on or balconies overlooking the lake, nearby Duval Street. See p. 204. woodlands, or a meadow. See p. 464. 05_588265_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 10:36 PM Page 15

THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED ACCOMMODATIONS 15 • The Villas of Grand Cypress can even get married in the semicir- (Orlando; & 800/835-7377 or 407/ cular meeting room overlooking the 239-4700): This luxury condo- Atlantic. See p. 563. minium resort offers lush grounds • Henderson Park Inn (Destin; dotted with bougainvillea and hibis- & 800/336-4853 or 850/837-4853): cus, lakes fat with largemouth bass Nestled against the eastern edge of and bream, and grounds speckled lovely Henderson Beach State Recre- with trumpeter swans, wood ducks, ation Area, this Cape Hatteras–style and the occasional fox or bobcat. It B&B offers romantic escapes without shares a golf academy, racquet club, screaming kids. The individually dec- and equestrian center with the Hyatt orated rooms ooze Victorian charm, Regency Grand Cypress. Best of all, with high ceilings, fireplaces, Queen the woodsy grounds make you feel as Anne furniture, and Gulf views from if you’re far, far from Disney, which is private balconies. Some even have right next door. See p. 468. canopy beds. See p. 602. • The Lodge & Club at Ponte Vedra • Seaside (near Destin; & 800/277- Beach (Ponte Vedra Beach, near Jack- 8696 or 850/231-1320): If residents sonville; & 800/243-4304 or 904/ of Northwest Florida don’t stay at 273-9500): Every unit at this intimate Henderson Park Inn for their get- hotel in upscale Ponte Vedra Beach aways, they head for the romantic has a romantic seat built into its Gulf-front cottages at Seaside. Built oceanview window, plus a big bath- in the 1980s but evoking the 1880s, room with two-person tub and sepa- the Victorian-style village of Seaside rate shower. Gas fireplaces in most (a short drive east of Destin) has sev- units add even more charm. One of eral cozy cottages designed especially the three pools and whirlpools here is for honeymooners. See p. 611. reserved exclusively for couples. You

7 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations • Abbey Hotel (South Beach; & 888/ hipsters who don’t feel the need to 61-ABBEY or 305/531-0031): Off spend $400 a night for a cool hotel. the beaten path, this ’40s-revival bou- Of the three types of rooms, the tique hotel gives you good reason to Waterway Standards are the way to get off the main drag and revel in its go: 18 signature rooms designed by quiet elegance. See p. 77. local artists and designers. With an • Lily Leon Hotel (South Beach; 8,000-square-foot pool deck, 40-foot & 305/673-3767): A true value, this fully stocked bar, outdoor barbecues, charismatic and hip sliver of property Ms. Pacman, pool tables, and theater, has won the loyalty of fashion indus- The Creek is somewhere you wouldn’t trialists and romantics alike. Built in mind being stuck without a paddle. 1929 and restored in 1996, the hotel See p. 79. retains many original details such as • Pelican Hotel (South Beach; & 800/ facades, woodwork, and fireplaces. 7-PELICAN or 305/673-3373): See p. 78. Owned by the creative owners of the • The Creek (South Beach; & 866/ Diesel jeans company, the Pelican is 445-4800 or 305/538-1951): Part South Beach’s only self-professed Playboy penthouse and part Jetsons, “toy-hotel,” in which each of its the Creek is a kitschy haven for 30 rooms and suites is decorated as 05_588265_ch01.qxd 7/20/05 10:36 PM Page 16

16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA outrageously as some of the area’s from the six contemporary cottages more colorful drag queens. See p. 78. right onto the beach. One unit even • Indian Creek Hotel (Miami Beach; has a private pool. See p. 426. & 800/491-2772 or 305/531-2727): • Disney’s Port Orleans Resort (Lake A charming Key West–style hotel Buena Vista; & 407/934-7639 or that’s full of character, the Indian 407/934-3400): Here’s good value by Creek Hotel takes you back in time, Disney standards. It has dual South- with period furnishings, attitude-free ern charm in its French Quarter and service, and a quaint pool and garden Riverside areas, and the pool has a completely lacking water slides, Tiki water slide that curves out of a faux huts, or calypso bands. See p. 83. dragon’s mouth. See p. 464. • Whitelaw Hotel (South Beach; • Staybridge Suites (Lake Buena Vista; & 305/398-7000): With a slogan & 800/866-4549 or 407/238-0777): that reads, “Clean sheets, hot water, Close to the action of Downtown and stiff drinks,” the Whitelaw stands Disney and the theme parks, this apart from the other boutique hotels resort’s one- and two-bedroom suites with its fierce sense of humor, but it have full kitchens and are larger and never compromises on the fabulous more comfortable than most of the amenities found at some of the area’s competition’s. And to help you relax, more serious properties. See p. 79. the resort will do your grocery shop- • Conch Key Cottages (Marathon; ping for you, so you don’t have to & 800/330-1577 or 305/289-1377): deal with the hassle. See p. 469. This oceanfront hideaway offers rustic • Casa Monica Hotel (St. Augustine; but immaculate and well-outfitted cot- & 800/648-1888 or 904/827-1888): tages that are especially popular with Built in 1888 as a luxury hotel, this families. Each has a hammock, barbe- Spanish-style building was gutted and cue grill, and kitchen. See p. 179. restored to its previous elegance in • Banyan Marina Resort (Fort Laud- 1998. Most interesting of the guest erdale; & 954/524-4430): These fab- quarters are suites installed in two tile- ulous waterfront apartments located topped towers and a fortresslike cen- on a beautifully landscaped residen- tral turret. One suite in the turret has tial island may hear you vow never to a half-round living room with gun- stay in a hotel again. See p. 251. port windows overlooking St. Augus- • Hotel Biba (West Palm Beach; tine’s historic district. See p. 549. & 561/832-0094): The mod squad • Gibson Inn (Apalachicola; & 850/ has adopted—and adapted—this 653-2191): Built in 1907 as a sea- ’40s-style motel into a Jetsonian, jet- men’s hotel and gorgeously restored set hangout that provides swank and in 1985, this cupola-topped inn is sleek shelter from the upper-crusty such a brilliant example of Victorian hotels that surround it. See p. 284. architecture that it’s listed on the • Island’s End Resort (St. Pete Beach; National Register of Historic Inns. & 727/360-5023): A wonderful No two guest rooms are alike (some respite from the madding crowd, and still have the original sinks in the a great bargain to boot, this little all- sleeping area), but all are richly fur- cottage hideaway sits on the southern nished with period reproductions. tip of St. Pete Beach, smack-dab on Grab a drink from the bar and relax Pass-a-Grille, where the Gulf of Mex- in one of the high-backed rockers on ico meets Tampa Bay. You can step the old-fashioned veranda. See p. 625.